Stalling TJ Magna

author: Martin "mpot" Pot

first published 6 March 2006


This page describes the long-running issues with my Mitsubishi TJ Magna stalling immediately after starting, and the the
trivial fix for the problem.
Background Info

In early 2002, we bought a 2000 Mitsubishi Magna TJ Advance wagon, with a 3.5L V6 engine. The car was purchased as a
family car, and is driven mostly by my wife.

Several months after it was purchased, the engine would occasionally stall immediately after being started.

TJ Magna wagon

After several frustrating years of trying to resolve this issue, including an ECU replacement, the cause was eventually
identified, and a very simple fix rectified the problem.
Symptoms

The engine intermittently stalls several seconds after starting. Typically, the engine will remain running after 3-5 attempts
to start, but sometimes will take more attempts.

Sometimes the engine will start at the first attempt for several weeks, before it begins stalling immediately after it starts.

Note that after the engine has stalled, attempting to immediately restart will just cause the engine to crank, but not fire.
The ignition needs to be turned fully off before attempting to restart it.

On several occasions, after several instances of the car stalling soon after being started, the engine would fail to fire, but
would just continue cranking.

The ECU does not report any error codes, and we were not able to identify any factors which may be affecting the car (ie,
weather, hot vs cold engine, etc).
History

Symptoms first started appearing several months after purchase, but gradually got worse, until in February 2003, the
engine would not start at all. The car was towed to the nearest Mitsubishi service center, and the ECU was replaced under
warrenty.

Approximately 6 months later, the issues re-surfaced, and have intermittently occurred since then.

In the last few weeks, these issues have been occurring more frequently, with the engine failing to fire at all after several
stalled starts.

Some testing with a multimeter indicated that the fuel pump relay de-energises as soon as the engine stalls, but the engine
control relay remains energised. This seems to indicate the ECU is shutting down the engine for some reason.

I've heard from a number of sources that there is a known issue with the immobiliser in the TJ, but no-one has been able to
provide any specific details.

The car has spent significant amounts of time at various mechanics, but either the car starts each time for the mechanic, or
they cannot determine the cause.
Progress at Last

An appointment was made with a senior technicians at one the local Mitsubishi service centers, to discuss the ongoing
issues with the car (the 3-year new car warrenty had expired 2.5 years ago).

He confirmed that there are known issues with low battery voltage causing similar symptoms (where the ECU shuts down
the engine if the voltage is too low), but based on the specific symptoms, these particular issues are unlikely to be caused
by the battery.

He said that some Magna models (including the TJ) have experienced similar issues to the ones described, which have been
traced to connectivity issues between the immobiliser control module and the engine ECU, and in some cases, have been
resolved by directly soldering the connections to each module.

The technician confirmed the best approach forward is to connect a diagnostic unit to the immobiliser to check for error
codes. The connectivity between the immobiliser control module and the ECU should also be investigated, to determine if a
bad termination is causing the issues.
The Fix

The Haynes Repair Manual includes detailed wiring diagrams, and the connection between the immobiliser control unit and
the ECU was quickly located. Note that the immobiliser control unit is one of the components in the Body Electronics Module
(BEM).

extract of wiring diagram with link highlighted in red

The Engine Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is mounted in the centre console, underneath the stereo, and is somewhat difficult
to access, requiring the removal of parts the dash.

The Body Electronics Module (BEM) is located underneath the dash, near the steering column, and is relatively easy to
access, without requiring any tools.

A closer look at the BEM revealed it has three large connectors linking it to the wiring loom.

location of Body Electronics Module under the dash

The wiring diagram shows the link between the BEM and the ECU as being a solid brown wire, and this was quickly traced to
the third connector, located on the driver's side of the BEM.

the BEM connector linking to the immobiliser control unit

Several attempts to start the engine confirmed it would stall each time it was started.

This BEM connector was then unplugged and re-inserted, with the connector being firmly pushed in, to ensure it was
properly seated in the socket.

The engine has since started and run normally every time.
Conclusion

The issues were caused by a bad contact in one of the connectors linking the immobiliser control unit (in the BEM) to the
ECU, causing the ECU to shutdown the engine within seconds of it starting, due to an incorrect signal from the immobiliser
control unit.

The ECU replacement several years ago did not address the real issue, but caused the symptoms to go away temporarily, as
the act of re-connecting the connectors to the BEM provided a better connection between the immobiliser control unit and
the ECU. However, after approximately 6 months, the same connection must have once again suffered from the same
issues, possibly caused by oxidisation between the connector terminals.

The intermittent nature of the issue caused a lot of frustration over a period of several years, with my wife being stranded
several times when the car would refuse to start at all. Various mechanics and technicians failed to find the cause, and in
most cases, could not even reproduce the problem.

In the end, it was a very simple and cheap fix for this problem, and I'm publishing this information on the web, in the hope
that it will assist anyone else with similar issues with their Magna.
Addendum: More Issues
(added February 2012)

After a number of years of trouble-free motoring, the annoying stalling issue reared its head again! This time, I traced it
down to a bad connection in the wiring to the antenna around the keyhole.

ignition barrel under the dash
1: antenna and keyhole lighting ring
2: antenna connector

The white ring around the keyhole is both a lighting ring (to make it easier to find the keyhole in the dark), and an ignition
key antenna. The antenna is used by the Body Electronics Module (BEM) to communicate with the electronics inside the key,
and if an appropriate signal isn't received, the BEM shuts down the ECU within seconds of the engine starting.

The wiring from the antenna goes through a connector mounted immediately below the steering column (identified as "2" in
the photo above), and it was this connector that was causing the issues. Simply pulling this connector apart, then plugging
it back together resolved the issue for me.
Testimonials

I have received emails from several people who found this page on the web after experiencing similar issues with their
Magna.
Once the cause of the issue was identified (based on the info on this page), these people were able to resolve their issues
too.

This confirms that this is not an isolated incident, but appears to occur on various Magna models. The intermittent nature of
the fault can make it very difficult to identify the cause, and that's one of the main reasons why I have published this
information on the web.
VISION
VAE 318-1800
Installation manual
WIRING DIAGRAM

WIRING DESCRIPTION
Wire
No.
Color Description
1 Red Connect to + 12V constant ( 15A fuse)
2 Black Connect to ground
3 Green/White Connect to ACC of ignition key switch + 12V, 9V (min.)
4 Red/Black +VE output connect to LED NO. 4 wire
15 Orange -VE output (1A) for siren or horn
18,19 Green With 7.5A X 2 fuse output connect to indicator
21 White Negative/or close loop door pin switch (see programmable feature) -Ve 6.0V (max.)
22 Grey/ Black -VE signal input connect to bonnet, -Ve 0.7V (max.)
23 White/Red -VE trigger input connect to optional detector, -Ve 0.7V (max.)
28 White/Black -VE signal output (300mA) for trunk release
30 Green/Yellow
#30 to #35, these 6 wires are interface to existing central door locking from manually to
remote activate when you arm & disarm (15A lock/unlock output). To submit many different
existing central floor locking , please refer to the wiring diagram
31 Red/Green
32 Black/Green
33 Blue/Yellow
34 Red/Blue
35 Black/Blue
10,11 Blue Connect to start motor cut out
4pin connector Connect to 318-072 or 318-052 dual zone sensor
HOW TO IDENTIFY THE TYPE OF C.D.L SYSTEM IN YOUR VEHICLES AND INSTALL
INSTRUCTION
1. Remove the driver's master door lock switch assembly from the driver's door panel. You may have to remove the
driver's door panel. In some can this switch is on the center console.
NOTE: DO NOT DISCONNECT THE WIRES FROM THIS SWITCH.
2. Examine the wires coming out of the switch assembly. You should find one of the following type systems by
checking the functions of each wire with using a test light or volt/ohm test meter.
A) 3-WIRE GROUNDING TYPE SYSTEM:
One wire is grounded ll the time.
One wire is grounded only when switch is moved to the lock position.
One wire is grounded only when switch is moved to the unlock position.
B) 3-WIRE + 12 VOLT TYPE SYSTEM:
One wire has + 12 volts all the time.
One wire has + 12 volts only when switch is moved to the lock position
One wire has + 12 volts only when switch is moved to unlock position.
C) 4-WIRE + 12V VOLT TYPE SYSTEM:
One wire has + 12 volts ll the time.
One wire is grounded all the time.
One wire has + 12 volts nl when switch is moved to lock position.
One wire has + 12 volts only when switch a moved to unlock position.
D) 5-WIRE REVERSE POLARITY TYPE SYSTEM:
One wire has +12 volts ll the time.
Two wires are grounded all the time.
One wire is grounded normally but will switch to + 12 volts when switch is moved to the lock position.
One wire is grounded normally but will switch to + 12 volts when switch is moved to the unlock position.
E) SPECIAL DOOR LOCKING SYSTEMS WITH VAE-316-12 MOTOR:
If the driver's door key unlocks & locks. All the doors and when the key is used to lock or unlock the passenger's door
the driver's door remains unchanged then you need to install model VAE-316-12 motor to the driver's door.
F) VACUUM DOOR LOCK SYSTEMS:
If when you lock or unlock the doors you see or hear each door locking one after the other (not all at the same time)
then you should have a vacuum system.

SELECTABLE FEATURE
The system provides software selectable feature to match your requirements.
Software Selectable Features
The system has several selectable features which are listed in TABLE A. To program these features, please refer
TABLE B.
TABLE A
Turn ignition of times Selectable Feature r-set
5 Over-ride ON/OFF OFF
6 Arm/Disarm Chirp ON/OFF ON
8 Last door auto arm ON/OFF OFF
9 Horn/Siren Siren
10 Rearm ON/OFF ON
11 C.D.L pulse 0.5 sec./ 5.0 sec. 0.5 sec.
12 Door trigger -Ve/+Ve -Ve
15 Auto arming option ACC/Full alarm ACC
17 Exterior illumination ON/OFF OFF
20 Programming transmitter

TABLE B
What function you want to do What you need to do Response
Programming features (If any
features of Table A want to be
changed)
Disarm the system Same response as active disarm
Turn the ignition key OFF-ACC-OFF the
required number of times within 20 seconds
(Please refer to Table A) then press CH-1
Indicator will flash the same
number of turning to confirm the
selection has been changed
EMERGENCY AND SERVICING
A) Master over-ride
The System provides Master Over-ride function for user to be bl to temporarily turn off the alarm when vehicle is
being serviced. This is only available to remote Central Door Locking and trunk release.
You may enter master over-ride by "Selectable feature" process, please refer to "Selectable feature" chart.
B) Programming Transmitter
The following reasons are you may program transmitter:
a. When you purchase new transmitter
b. Reprogramming authorized transmitter
What function you
want to do
What you need to do Response
Programming new
transmitter
Disarm the system Same response as active disarm
Turn the ignition key OFF-ACC-OFF
20 times
Indicator flashes 20 times to confirm enter
transmitter programming mode
Press each pre-programming transmitter
CH-1 once, within 10 sec.
Siren one chirp
Indicator flash once to confirm each
transmitter has been programmed
Turn ignition to ACC position, or 10
seconds are elapsed.
The system will go back disarm
C) Emergency Reset
In the event that the transmitter are lost, me system can be reset by using the key switch. Open me doors turn the
ignition form OFF to ACC 10 times within 15 seconds, the system will emit three chirps and the indicators wit flash
thress times to confirm the system has rest.


this a how to for a fordlaser but i its pretty much the same thing
HOW TO: Install Push Buton Start W/ Remote Start Option:[/size]

***Note: Steering Lock needs to be REMOVED buy removal of the spring inside the Ignition Barrel***

You will need:
2x 40 Amp Fused Relays
1x Push Button
1x Rocker Switch
Crimps
Wire
Tape
1x Dynamco (P375, P375B or P375)  or Central locking System with BOOT release function on your remote. (not
necessary if you only want Push start)






Steal Stopping - Part Four
We complete the Do-It-Yourself installation of an
off-the-shelf remote security system.
By Michael Knowling
Click on pics to view larger images

At a glance...
Final instalment of a four part series
We complete the step-by-step installation of an off-the-
shelf remote alarm/immobiliser
Total cost under AUD$250
Email a friend Print article
In Part Three of this series we began the Do-It-Yourself installation of an off-the-shelf remote control
alarm/immobiliser. Now, in the final part, its time to finish the job.
Do-It-Yourself Security System Installation (Cont.)
Mounting the Shock Sensor

The Steel Mate plug-in shock sensor has a pair of mounting tabs that enable it to be screwed into place. The
instructions suggest that the shock sensor be mounted to part of the vehicles body frame somewhere the sensor will
detect the shock of a break-in.
In the case of our 180SX, we firmly cable-tied the shock sensor to a structural beam under the dashboard. We tested
its response by striking the radiator support panel with the handle of a screwdriver to replicate a break-in and, sure
enough, the shock sensor triggered the siren.
If the shock sensor does not respond you can alter its sensitivity using an adjustment screw on the sensor body. This
adjustment screw can also be used to desensitise the shock sensor if you later have problems with false-alarming.
Fitting the Immobiliser Relay

The Steel Mate alarm comes with a normally-open relay which can be employed to disable the starter, ignition or
electric fuel pump. The relay is rated up to 30 amps, which is enough to cope with any of these devices.
When engine immobilisation is required (such as when the alarm is armed or the anti-hijacking mode is triggered) the
alarm module disconnects earth from the coil side of the relay. This causes the switch side of the relay to go open-
circuit, cutting power to your chosen point of immobilisation.
The coil side of the relay uses a white and yellow wire, while the switched side uses a pair of large diameter green
wires.

We selected the ignition system as the point of immobilisation in our 180SX. Using a factory wiring diagram, we
located the wire between the vehicles ECU and ignition coil relay (which provides power to each direct-fire coil).
This wire was then cut and the switched side of the immobiliser relay was soldered to each end.
This leaves the white and yellow wire from the coil side of the immobiliser relay.
The white wire is connected to Accessories and the yellow wire connects to the immobilisation control wire (yellow)
from the alarm module. The alarm uses the immobilisation control wire to disconnect earth from the coil, which
opens the switched side of the relay and immobilises the engine.
Once the immobiliser relay is fitted and the alarm is armed, the engine can be cranked over via the ignition but it
refuses to fire into life; exactly what we want.
Integration of Central Locking
Our Nissan 180SX is factory fitted with a basic key-operated central locking arrangement a system that comprises a
lock position switch inside the drivers door and a motor-driven slave actuator in the passenger door. Whenever the
drivers door is manually locked or unlocked, the lock position switch sends the appropriate signal to the slave
actuator in the passenger door.

From the outset of this project we made the decision to upgrade to remote control door locking/unlocking via the
alarm system. However, to enable fully remote control locking/unlocking of both doors, a motor-driven master
actuator must be added inside the drivers door.
We employed a new Jaycar master actuator which retails for just AUD$11.95. The master actuator kit (Cat. No. LR-
8816) is supplied with mounting hardware and a basic installation manual.
Fitment of the master actuator requires removal of the drivers door trim and weather shield. Once these are removed,
you should be able to identify a metal rod inside the door that moves as you lock/unlock the door. This is the locking
rod that must be connected to the new master actuator.

Find a position inside the door where theres enough space to mount the actuator so that its push/pull axis is parallel
with the locking rod. It is essential that the actuator is mounted on the same axis as the locking rod. Once youve
found a position, dont forget to check that the actuator has adequate clearance for the window mechanism.

The actuator is mounted to the inner skin of the door using the supplied support band. Unfortunately, the support
band was too short in this instance so we made a small extension tab from scrap metal. One end of the mounting band
was secured using an existing hole in the door while the opposite end required drilling a dedicated hole. Both ends
were screwed into place using short self-tapping screws you dont want a long self-tapper scratching the door glass
as is slides up and down...
The new actuator can now be connected to the vehicles locking rod using the supplied control rod and fixing block.

Manoeuvre the supplied control rod through the eye in the end of the actuator piston. The control rod should now be
bent so that it aligns closely with the vehicles locking rod. This photo shows the bends we made in the control rod
for our 180SX. Cut off any excess we used only a very short control rod.

Once the control rod is bent and cut to suit, it can be connected to the vehicles locking rod using the fixing block.
The fixing block comprises two parallel passages which fit over each rod. There are four screws in the block that,
when tightened, clamp down on each rod and links their movement together. Note that this can be a fiddly job we
suggest screwing one side of the fixing block onto the door rod first and securing the control rod second.
Important - the actuator should be set mid-way through its travel when linked to the vehicles locking rod.

This photo shows what our installed master actuator looks like.
Now comes the central locking wiring.

The master actuator has five wires attached. Forget about the black, red and white wires the only ones we need to
use are the blue and green wires.
In most instances youll need a length of extension wire to join the actuators wires to the alarm module. Solder the
actuators blue and green wires to the extension wire and route it parallel with the existing door loom (where fitted).
Wherever possible, its also desirable to route the wire through a factory rubber jacket in the doorjamb.
With the master actuators extension wires now accessible near the drivers kick panel, connect them to the switched
door lock outputs from the alarm module (white and white/black wires).
Next, connect the alarm modules normally-closed door lock outputs (orange and orange/black wires) to earth. The
normally-open door lock outputs (yellow and yellow/black wires) should then be connected to permanent 12V.
Tip - these can be spliced into the alarm modules existing 12V and earth wires.

At this stage you need to check the orientation of the actuators blue and green wires.
Press the lock button on one of the remote control units and the doors should lock at the same moment the alarm is
armed. If the actuators wires are incorrectly oriented the doors will unlock when the alarm is armed or vice versa. If
this happens, you need to swap the orientation of actuators blue and green wires with relation to the alarms switched
door lock outputs (white and white/black wires). Solder them together once finalised.
And thats the central locking part of the job done. If your car requires a different central locking configuration to that
described here, the necessary wiring details are outlined in the alarms installation manual.
Final Touches

Route the alarms flashing LED through the dashboard and decide on a place to mount it. The LED should be
mounted somewhere prominent; we chose the top of the steering column trim.
If you follow in our footsteps youll need to drill a 6.5mm hole through the column trim (being careful not to scuff
the visible surface). Once the hole is drilled you can push the flashing LED through from the bottom. Unfortunately,
a LED clip is not supplied so we purchased a 5mm clip from Jaycar for a neater finish. A pack of 20 LED clips (Cat.
No. HP-1102) costs AUD$2.50 they arent sold individually.
In these closing stages you should revise the path of all alarm-related wires - make sure none are pulled tight, there
are no fouling issues and try to keep them as hidden as possible. If theres adequate space under the dashboard you
may be able to conceal the coloured alarm wires in split convoluted tubing this camouflages them as part of the
vehicles original wiring loom.

Use the supplied keys to switch the under-bonnet siren to battery back-up mode, refit all interior trim, familiarise
yourself with the users manual and youre finished!
Congratulations - your car is now secure and you havent spent a bomb!
The circuit diagram shown below appears one wire vaccum control of pneumatic locking which is popular
withJaguar, AudiandMercedes Pneumatic. It uses two Dynamico relays with wire colors in it (BK, BU, BN, WT, RE,
GY and etc).

Pneumatic Locking Circuit Configuration Diagram

Accordingly, the central locking trigger wire is usually found in the drivers kick panel. Voltage changes between
12V and ground when lock position changes. New voltages remains until locks are moved back (thick green or thick
blue). Central locking pulse time must be set to 3 seconds in which refer to alarm immobiliser instructions. if you find
reverse central lock operation, then just swap the 87 connections.

Sparkrite FAQ's


SRA1
click here to download instructions

Q. The manual says mount the unit upright, does it need to be?
A. No, the alarm will operate normally in any position but be sure to secure the alarm and test the shock sensor before
finishing.
Q. The alarm arms and disarms but does not trigger when the door is opened?
A. Can you make the alarm trigger if you arm the unit, wait for the arm up delay to expire and then flash the car
headlights? If it does then you may need to connect the alarms RED wire to a more sensitive position. We suggest
connecting to the fuse in the cars fuse box which protect the cars interior light circuit, this makes the alarm more
sensitive to a voltage drop and should cure the problem.
Q.I fitted the alarm, the voltage sense triggers the alarm when I open the door but it doesnt go off when I bang the
car?
A. You may need to adjust the sensitivity of the shock sensor, remove the protective rubber cover and turn the
adjuster clockwise, re-arm the alarm and test the shock sensor again.
Q. When the alarm triggers does it reset?
A. Yes, the alarm will sound for 30 seconds (nominally) and then will stop and reset.
Q. Do I have to fit the LED? I dont want to drill holes in my dash.
A. No, the LED is there to give a visible indication of the alarms presence; it does not need to be fitted.
Q. Can the SR915 ultrasonic interior protection be added to this alarm?
A. No, the SRA1 cannot be fitted with the SR915 unit.
Q. Can I fit the SR911 central locking interface to this alarm?
A. Yes, it can operate the SR911 (please contact Sparkrite for details).
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, please call our sales department quoting the alarm serial number which is located on the bottom of the alarm
and rear of the remote control

SRA2
click here to download instructions

Q. I have fitted the alarm but it isnt going off when I open the door?
A. There are two reasons why this may occur, the first would be the connection to the alarms Yellow wire. Is it being
used for the cars cooling fan? If not then it should be connected to the cars bodywork or the negative side of the
battery. If the Yellow wire is fitted correctly then it may be that the cars courtesy lights are not causing a big enough
voltage drop for the alarm to detect. The solution is to move the alarms Red wire to a more sensitive place such as
the fuse which protects the cars interior light circuit. This should cure the problem.
Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. Where do I connect the Orange/White wire?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. How do I make the shock sensor more sensitive?
A. Remove the rubber plug to enable access to the small adjuster, turn the adjuster slightly clockwise which makes it
more sensitive to shock, re-arm the alarm and repeat the test. If this is satisfactory then replace the rubber plug to
complete the adjustment.
Q. Can I make this alarm flash the indicators?
A. No the SRA2-2 does not operate the indicators.
Q. Can I add the SR911 central locking interface?
A. Yes you can, but you should check to see if you also require a door motor as well. The test for this is simple, can
you lock and unlock all the doors from the cars passenger door or only from the drivers door, if only from the
drivers door then you need the additional part AC1. The price and availability of this unit can be obtained from our
sales department.
Q. Can the ultrasonic interior protection unit SR915 be added to this alarm?
A. Yes it can, the SR915 simply plugs into the vacant 3 pin socket on the rear of the alarm.
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. Why does the red LED come on when the alarm isnt armed?
A. This is normally caused by the alarm losing the 12v supply; this results in the alarm forgetting the code. To
correct this you need to reset the alarm. The reset procedure is simply a matter of removing the fuse from the alarms
Red wire for 30 seconds, replace the fuse and operate the remote control to put the code back into the alarms
memory. This will restore the alarm to normal operation but unless the car battery was disconnected for some reason
you should try to find out the reason for the supply loss. Check for loose connections, a low battery etc.
Q. What does the 3beeps mean when I return to the vehicle and disarm the alarm?
A. The 3 beeps when turning the alarm off signifies the alarm has been triggered and has gone through the alarm
cycle and then reset. This alerts the owner to check the vehicle in case it has been broken into.
Q. The alarm triggers when a heavy vehicle goes past why?
A. Check that the alarm unit is held tightly in the bracket, if it is loose then this increases the shock sensor sensitivity.
You may also have the shock sensor set too high, please readjust the sensitivity by turning the adjuster slightly more
towards min. If you also have the ultrasonic unit SR915 fitted check for anything moving inside the vehicle such as
seat belts, air fresheners etc, this would be picked up by the ultrasonics and trigger the alarm.
Q. I have just had some work done on my car and now the remote control does not work but my neighbours remote
operates my alarm. What is the problem?
A. If the alarm loses power then you will need to reset the code in the unit. To do this remove the fuse from the
alarms Red wire, leave out for 30 seconds, replace the fuse and then use your remote control to arm and then disarm
the alarm. This resets the alarm which will now work normally.

SRA6
click here to download instructions

Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. What is the separate Orange/White wire for?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
A. This depends on the way your cars cooling fan operates. If you have a mechanical cooling fan or the fan does not
operate with the ignition turned off then the Yellow wire must be connected to Earth.
Q. What do I connect the Pink wire to?
A. This wire connects to a 12v wire on the ignition system which is live only in the start/run position.
Using a test lamp locate the wire on the ignition switch which becomes live when the switch is turned from position 1
to position 2.
Q. What do I do about the Blue wire?
A. The Blue wire is to detect the door switch operating and operates independently from the voltage sense; the alarm
is triggered by the blue wire being Earthed by the door switch when the door is opened.
Q. Where do I connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. The alarm flashes the car indicators by feeding 12v down the Purple and Grey wires, you can either connect these
wires down at the indicator bulbs themselves or at the stalk switch on the steering column. In either case you are
looking for wires that have 12v switched on them when the indicators flash; locate this wire using a test light or
multimeter. Connect the Grey wire to the left hand side indicators and the Purple wire to the right hand side
indicators. If you are making the connections in the engine bay then we recommend either soldering the connections
or use good quality crimp connectors. IDC connectors are not recommended for use in the engine bay. Very rarely the
indicators are negatively (Earth) switched; if this is the case please contact Sparkrite for assistance.
Q. What are the 3 switches on the back for?
A. These switches control various user selectable options. The switch marked Current turns the alarms current
sensing facility on or off, this is useful if you need the alarm to ignore any electric circuits that operate after the
ignition is switched off. The switch marked Chirp turns on/off the alarms audible arming/disarming beeps; this is
useful if you need to arm the alarm without disturbing anybody. The switch marked Passive turns on/off the alarms
automatic arming facility. This, when selected starts the arming sequence when the last door is closed. After 15
seconds the alarm will chirp once and the indicators will flash once, the alarm will be fully armed after 20 seconds.
The alarm is disarmed as normal using the remote control, or by switching the car ignition on.
These switches should be set at the factory with the switches in the following sequence.
Current On
Passive - Off
Chirp - On
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. I have installed the alarm but it will not respond to the remote control, what am I doing wrong.
A. Can you make the alarm go off if you hold the transmitter button down? If it does then you may have the Pink
wire in the wrong position. To test this disconnect the Pink wire from wherever it is connected to, temporarily attach
to an Earth, can you make the alarm respond to the remote now? If it responds now then you need to reposition the
pink wire.
Q. I have installed the optional central locking interface but it doesnt work?
A. There is a peculiarity with the SR90 concerning central locking. For the central locking output (Orange/white
wire) to work you must have the LED plugged in and working.
Q. Why does the alarm trigger when a large vehicle goes past?
A. This is normally caused by the SR915 ultrasonic unit. This detects any movement happening inside the vehicle,
and will of course pick up things like seatbelts moving or air fresheners of the type designed to be hung in the
vehicle. Make sure that seatbelts are fully retracted and that air fresheners do not move, if the problem persists then
reduce the sensitivity of the SR915.
Q. The alarm goes off by itself, what could cause this?
A. There are several possible causes of this; is there any active electricical circuits on the vehicle that may be causing
a voltage drop that the alarm may pick up? For instance do you have an engine management system that does a self
check? To eliminate this please turn the alarms current sensing switch to off, if this cures the problem then leave the
switch in the off position.

SRA8
click here to download instructions
Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. What is the separate Orange/White wire for?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
A. This depends on the way your cars cooling fan operates. If you have a mechanical cooling fan or the fan does not
operate with the ignition turned off then the Yellow wire must be connected to Earth.
Q. What do I connect the Pink wire to?
A. This wire connects to a 12v wire on the ignition system which is live only in the start/run position.
Using a test lamp locate the wire on the ignition switch which becomes live when the switch is turned from position 1
to position 2.
Q. What do I do about the Blue wire?
A. The Blue wire is to detect the door switch operating and operates independently from the voltage sense; the alarm
is triggered by the blue wire being Earthed by the door switch when the door is opened.
Q. Why does the alarm beep 4 times when I try to arm it?
A. Are you trying to arm the alarm with the door open? If not; then the problem is caused by the Blue wire, The 4
beeps indicate that the alarm thinks there is a door open. Close the car door if it is open, if the door is closed then you
need to check the connection on the Blue wire.
Q. Do I need to connect the Blue wire?
A. If you want passive arming, then you must have the Blue connected. If not then the alarm will still trigger on the
voltage sense but you must connect the wire to a good 12v supply; you cannot leave this wire disconnected.
Q. Where do I connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. The alarm flashes the car indicators by feeding 12v down the Purple and Grey wires, you can either connect these
wires down at the indicator bulbs themselves or at the stalk switch on the steering column. In either case you are
looking for wires that have 12v switched on them when the indicators flash; locate this wire using a test light or
multimeter. Connect the Grey wire to the left hand side indicators and the Purple wire to the right hand side
indicators. If you are making the connections in the engine bay then we recommend either soldering the connections
or use good quality crimp connectors. IDC connectors are not recommended for use in the engine bay. Very rarely the
indicators are negatively (Earth) switched; if this is the case please contact Sparkrite for assistance.
Q. Do I need to connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. No, simply remove the fuses from the wires and leave coiled up with the ends covered by insulating tape.
Q. What are the 2 small switches for on the back of the alarm for?
A. The switch marked 1 controls the alarms voltage drop circuit, this triggers the alarm when it detects any sudden
drop in the battery voltage such as caused by the interior light coming on. Normally you would want this active so
switch 1 would be in the on position. If for any reason you wish to disable this, put switch 1 to the off position.
Switch 2 controls the alarms passive arm function. This allows the alarm to arm itself when it detects the last door
closing. You disarm the alarm using the remote control. Do not use the passive arming feature if you are using the
optional central door locking interface.
Q. What is the Valet switch for?
A. This is used to disable the alarm. It is useful if you need to take the car in for servicing, especially if the passive
arming feature is used.
To enable the feature first turn the cars ignition on, then turn the valet key to the 9: oclock position.
To disable this feature first turn on the cars ignition, then turn the valet switch anti clockwise to the 12: oclock
position.
NB: You must have the vehicle ignition on to alter the switch position, failure to follow this procedure will result in
the alarm triggering as soon as the arm up period expires.
Q. How do I connect the immobilisation wires?
A. The immobilisation is performed by preventing the starter motor from operating. This is done by breaking the
power to the starter solenoid. Identify the thin wire which when disconnected stops the starter motor from operating;
connect the Orange wire to this. The Brown wire is then connected to the position on the solenoid where the original
wire came from.
Q. Do I have to connect the immobilisation wires?
A. No if you do not require this feature simply cover the ends of Orange and Brown wires (2 way white plug) with
insulating tape and leave disconnected.
Q. Will the alarm work if the boot/bonnet is opened?
A. If you vehicle is fitted with boot/bonnet switches which operate a courtesy light then the alarm will trigger on the
voltage sense. If the vehicle does not have these fitted as standard then you will need to fit a switch kit. These can be
obtained from our sales department asking for part number SR910.
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. How do I adjust the shock sensitivity?
A. There is an adjuster located on the back of the alarm, remove the rubber plug and you can adjust the sensitivity
using a small flat bladed screwdriver. To make it more sensitive turn the adjuster slightly more towards the max
mark (clockwise), movement towards the min mark (anticlockwise) decreases the sensitivity.
Q. Where do I fit the SR915 ultrasonic detector?
A. The sensors are to the top of the A posts between the windscreen and side windows. These should face in
towards the rear of the car and can be secured by pushing the tail down the trim on the A posts.
Q. How do I adjust the sensitivity of the SR915 ultrasonic unit?
A. On the main body of the SR915 in the top left hand corner next to the LED is a small rubber plug, remove this
plug and the adjuster is below. To increase the sensitivity turn this adjuster slightly towards the max
mark(clockwise), to reduce the sensitivity turn the adjuster slightly towards the min(anticlockwise).

SR60
click here to download instructions

Q. The manual says mount the unit upright, does it need to be?
A. No, the alarm will operate normally in any position but be sure to secure the alarm and test the shock sensor before
finishing.
Q. The alarm arms and disarms but does not trigger when the door is opened?
A. Can you make the alarm trigger if you arm the unit, wait for the arm up delay to expire and then flash the car
headlights? If it does then you may need to connect the alarms RED wire to a more sensitive position. We suggest
connecting to the fuse in the cars fuse box which protect the cars interior light circuit, this makes the alarm more
sensitive to a voltage drop and should cure the problem.
Q.I fitted the alarm, the voltage sense triggers the alarm when I open the door but it doesnt go off when I bang the
car?
A. You may need to adjust the sensitivity of the shock sensor, remove the protective rubber cover and turn the
adjuster clockwise, re-arm the alarm and test the shock sensor again.
Q. When the alarm triggers does it reset?
A. Yes, the alarm will sound for 30 seconds (nominally) and then will stop and reset.
Q. Do I have to fit the LED? I dont want to drill holes in my dash.
A. No, the LED is there to give a visible indication of the alarms presence; it does not need to be fitted.
Q. Can the SR915 ultrasonic interior protection be added to this alarm?
A. No, the SR60 cannot be fitted with the SR915 unit.
Q. Can I fit the SR911 central locking interface to this alarm?
A. Yes, it can operate the SR911 (please contact Sparkrite for details).
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, please call our sales department quoting the alarm serial number which is located on the bottom of the alarm
and rear of the remote control

SR75h
click here to download instructions

Q. I have fitted the alarm but it isnt going off when I open the door?
A. There are two reasons why this may occur, the first would be the connection to the alarms Yellow wire. Is it being
used for the cars cooling fan? If not then it should be connected to the cars bodywork or the negative side of the
battery. If the Yellow wire is fitted correctly then it may be that the cars courtesy lights are not causing a big enough
voltage drop for the alarm to detect. The solution is to move the alarms Red wire to a more sensitive place such as
the fuse which protects the cars interior light circuit. This should cure the problem.
Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. Where do I connect the Orange/White wire?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. How do I make the shock sensor more sensitive?
A. Remove the rubber plug to enable access to the small adjuster, turn the adjuster slightly clockwise which makes it
more sensitive to shock, re-arm the alarm and repeat the test. If this is satisfactory then replace the rubber plug to
complete the adjustment.
Q. Can I make this alarm flash the indicators?
A. No the SR75H does not operate the indicators.
Q. Can I add the SR911 central locking interface?
A. Yes you can, but you should check to see if you also require a door motor as well. The test for this is simple, can
you lock and unlock all the doors from the cars passenger door or only from the drivers door, if only from the
drivers door then you need the additional part AC1. The price and availability of this unit can be obtained from our
sales department.
Q. Can the ultrasonic interior protection unit SR915 be added to this alarm?
A. Yes it can, the SR915 simply plugs into the vacant 3 pin socket on the rear of the alarm.
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. Why does the red LED come on when the alarm isnt armed?
A. This is normally caused by the alarm losing the 12v supply; this results in the alarm forgetting the code. To
correct this you need to reset the alarm. The reset procedure is simply a matter of removing the fuse from the alarms
Red wire for 30 seconds, replace the fuse and operate the remote control to put the code back into the alarms
memory. This will restore the alarm to normal operation but unless the car battery was disconnected for some reason
you should try to find out the reason for the supply loss. Check for loose connections, a low battery etc.
Q. What does the 3beeps mean when I return to the vehicle and disarm the alarm?
A. The 3 beeps when turning the alarm off signifies the alarm has been triggered and has gone through the alarm
cycle and then reset. This alerts the owner to check the vehicle in case it has been broken into.
Q. The alarm triggers when a heavy vehicle goes past why?
A. Check that the alarm unit is held tightly in the bracket, if it is loose then this increases the shock sensor sensitivity.
You may also have the shock sensor set too high, please readjust the sensitivity by turning the adjuster slightly more
towards min. If you also have the ultrasonic unit SR915 fitted check for anything moving inside the vehicle such as
seat belts, air fresheners etc, this would be picked up by the ultrasonics and trigger the alarm.
Q. I have just had some work done on my car and now the remote control does not work but my neighbours remote
operates my alarm. What is the problem?
A. If the alarm loses power then you will need to reset the code in the unit. To do this remove the fuse from the
alarms Red wire, leave out for 30 seconds, replace the fuse and then use your remote control to arm and then disarm
the alarm. This resets the alarm which will now work normally.

SR85
click here to download instuctions
Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. Where do I connect the Orange/White wire?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
A. This depends on the way your cars cooling fan operates. If you have a mechanical cooling fan or the fan does not
operate with the ignition turned off then the Yellow wire must be connected to Earth. If the Yellow wire needs to be
connected then it must be connected between the thermal switch and the fan motor.
Q. Where do I connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. The alarm flashes the car indicators by feeding 12v down the Purple and Grey wires, you can either connect these
wires down at the indicator bulbs themselves or at the stalk switch on the steering column. In either case you are
looking for wires that have 12v switched on them when the indicators flash; locate this wire using a test light or
multimeter. Connect the Grey wire to the left hand side indicators and the Purple wire to the right hand side
indicators. If you are making the connections in the engine bay then we recommend either soldering the connections
or use good quality crimp connectors. IDC connectors are not recommended for use in the engine bay. Very rarely the
indicators are negatively (Earth) switched; if this is the case please contact Sparkrite for assistance.
Q. Do I need to connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. No, simply remove the fuses from the wires and leave coiled up with the ends covered by insulating tape.
Q. What do I do about the Blue wire?
A. The Blue wire is to detect the door switch operating and operates independently from the voltage sense; the alarm
is triggered by the blue wire being Earthed by the door switch when the door is opened.
Q. Do I need to connect the Blue wire?
A. No the alarm will still trigger on the voltage sense but you must connect the wire to a good 12v supply; you cannot
leave this wire disconnected.
Q. Why does the alarm beep 4 times when I try to arm it?
A. Are you trying to arm the alarm with the door open? If not; then the problem is caused by the Blue wire, The 4
beeps indicate that the alarm thinks there is a door open. Close the car door if it is open, if the door is closed then you
need to check the connection on the Blue wire.
Q. Can the Black wire be connected anywhere on the bodywork?
A. Yes, but please ensure a good electrical connection is made (if in doubt connect to the negative side of the
battery).
Q. Will the alarm work if the boot/bonnet is opened?
A. If you vehicle is fitted with boot/bonnet switches which operate a courtesy light then the alarm will trigger on the
voltage sense. If the vehicle does not have these fitted as standard then you will need to fit a switch kit. These can be
obtained from our sales department asking for part number SR910.
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. What does the 3beeps mean when I return to the vehicle and disarm the alarm?
A. The 3 beeps when turning the alarm off signifies the alarm has been triggered and has gone through the alarm
cycle and then reset. This alerts the owner to check the vehicle in case it has been broken into.

SR85u
click here to download instructions

Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. Where do I connect the Orange/White wire?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
A. This depends on the way your cars cooling fan operates. If you have a mechanical cooling fan or the fan does not
operate with the ignition turned off then the Yellow wire must be connected to Earth. If the Yellow wire needs to be
connected then it must be connected between the thermal switch and the fan motor.
Q. Where do I connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. The alarm flashes the car indicators by feeding 12v down the Purple and Grey wires, you can either connect these
wires down at the indicator bulbs themselves or at the stalk switch on the steering column. In either case you are
looking for wires that have 12v switched on them when the indicators flash; locate this wire using a test light or
multimeter. Connect the Grey wire to the left hand side indicators and the Purple wire to the right hand side
indicators. If you are making the connections in the engine bay then we recommend either soldering the connections
or use good quality crimp connectors. IDC connectors are not recommended for use in the engine bay. Very rarely the
indicators are negatively (Earth) switched; if this is the case please contact Sparkrite for assistance.
Q. Do I need to connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. No, simply remove the fuses from the wires and leave coiled up with the ends covered by insulating tape.
Q. What do I do about the Blue wire?
A. The Blue wire is to detect the door switch operating and operates independently from the voltage sense; the alarm
is triggered by the blue wire being Earthed by the door switch when the door is opened.
Q. Do I need to connect the Blue wire?
A. No the alarm will still trigger on the voltage sense but you must connect the wire to a good 12v supply; you cannot
leave this wire disconnected.
Q. Why does the alarm beep 4 times when I try to arm it?
A. Are you trying to arm the alarm with the door open? If not; then the problem is caused by the Blue wire, The 4
beeps indicate that the alarm thinks there is a door open. Close the car door if it is open, if the door is closed then you
need to check the connection on the Blue wire.
Q. Can the Black wire be connected anywhere on the bodywork?
A. Yes, but please ensure a good electrical connection is made (if in doubt connect to the negative side of the
battery).
Q. Will the alarm work if the boot/bonnet is opened?
A. If you vehicle is fitted with boot/bonnet switches which operate a courtesy light then the alarm will trigger on the
voltage sense. If the vehicle does not have these fitted as standard then you will need to fit a switch kit. These can be
obtained from our sales department asking for part number SR910.
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. What does the 3beeps mean when I return to the vehicle and disarm the alarm?
A. The 3 beeps when turning the alarm off signifies the alarm has been triggered and has gone through the alarm
cycle and then reset. This alerts the owner to check the vehicle in case it has been broken into.

SR90
click here to download instructions

Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. What is the separate Orange/White wire for?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
A. This depends on the way your cars cooling fan operates. If you have a mechanical cooling fan or the fan does not
operate with the ignition turned off then the Yellow wire must be connected to Earth.
Q. What do I connect the Pink wire to?
A. This wire connects to a 12v wire on the ignition system which is live only in the start/run position.
Using a test lamp locate the wire on the ignition switch which becomes live when the switch is turned from position 1
to position 2.
Q. What do I do about the Blue wire?
A. The Blue wire is to detect the door switch operating and operates independently from the voltage sense; the alarm
is triggered by the blue wire being Earthed by the door switch when the door is opened.
Q. Where do I connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. The alarm flashes the car indicators by feeding 12v down the Purple and Grey wires, you can either connect these
wires down at the indicator bulbs themselves or at the stalk switch on the steering column. In either case you are
looking for wires that have 12v switched on them when the indicators flash; locate this wire using a test light or
multimeter. Connect the Grey wire to the left hand side indicators and the Purple wire to the right hand side
indicators. If you are making the connections in the engine bay then we recommend either soldering the connections
or use good quality crimp connectors. IDC connectors are not recommended for use in the engine bay. Very rarely the
indicators are negatively (Earth) switched; if this is the case please contact Sparkrite for assistance.
Q. What are the 3 switches on the back for?
A. These switches control various user selectable options. The switch marked Current turns the alarms current
sensing facility on or off, this is useful if you need the alarm to ignore any electric circuits that operate after the
ignition is switched off. The switch marked Chirp turns on/off the alarms audible arming/disarming beeps; this is
useful if you need to arm the alarm without disturbing anybody. The switch marked Passive turns on/off the alarms
automatic arming facility. This, when selected starts the arming sequence when the last door is closed. After 15
seconds the alarm will chirp once and the indicators will flash once, the alarm will be fully armed after 20 seconds.
The alarm is disarmed as normal using the remote control, or by switching the car ignition on.
These switches should be set at the factory with the switches in the following sequence.
Current On
Passive - Off
Chirp - On
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. I have installed the alarm but it will not respond to the remote control, what am I doing wrong.
A. Can you make the alarm go off if you hold the transmitter button down? If it does then you may have the Pink
wire in the wrong position. To test this disconnect the Pink wire from wherever it is connected to, temporarily attach
to an Earth, can you make the alarm respond to the remote now? If it responds now then you need to reposition the
pink wire.
Q. I have installed the optional central locking interface but it doesnt work?
A. There is a peculiarity with the SR90 concerning central locking. For the central locking output (Orange/white
wire) to work you must have the LED plugged in and working.
Q. Why does the alarm trigger when a large vehicle goes past?
A. This is normally caused by the SR915 ultrasonic unit. This detects any movement happening inside the vehicle,
and will of course pick up things like seatbelts moving or air fresheners of the type designed to be hung in the
vehicle. Make sure that seatbelts are fully retracted and that air fresheners do not move, if the problem persists then
reduce the sensitivity of the SR915.
Q. The alarm goes off by itself, what could cause this?
A. There are several possible causes of this; is there any active electricical circuits on the vehicle that may be causing
a voltage drop that the alarm may pick up? For instance do you have an engine management system that does a self
check? To eliminate this please turn the alarms current sensing switch to off, if this cures the problem then leave the
switch in the off position.

SR100
click here to download instructions

Q. Where do I connect the Green wire?
A. You do not connect this wire at all; this is the aerial wire for the alarms radio control and should be simply left
hanging.
Q. What is the separate Orange/White wire for?
A. This wire is only used to control the optional central door locking unit SR911, unless you have this unit the
Orange/White wire should be left coiled in the rubber protective boot which covers the harness plugs.
Q. Where do I connect the Yellow wire?
A. This depends on the way your cars cooling fan operates. If you have a mechanical cooling fan or the fan does not
operate with the ignition turned off then the Yellow wire must be connected to Earth.
Q. What do I connect the Pink wire to?
A. This wire connects to a 12v wire on the ignition system which is live only in the start/run position.
Using a test lamp locate the wire on the ignition switch which becomes live when the switch is turned from position 1
to position 2.
Q. What do I do about the Blue wire?
A. The Blue wire is to detect the door switch operating and operates independently from the voltage sense; the alarm
is triggered by the blue wire being Earthed by the door switch when the door is opened.
Q. Why does the alarm beep 4 times when I try to arm it?
A. Are you trying to arm the alarm with the door open? If not; then the problem is caused by the Blue wire, The 4
beeps indicate that the alarm thinks there is a door open. Close the car door if it is open, if the door is closed then you
need to check the connection on the Blue wire.
Q. Do I need to connect the Blue wire?
A. If you want passive arming, then you must have the Blue connected. If not then the alarm will still trigger on the
voltage sense but you must connect the wire to a good 12v supply; you cannot leave this wire disconnected.
Q. Where do I connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. The alarm flashes the car indicators by feeding 12v down the Purple and Grey wires, you can either connect these
wires down at the indicator bulbs themselves or at the stalk switch on the steering column. In either case you are
looking for wires that have 12v switched on them when the indicators flash; locate this wire using a test light or
multimeter. Connect the Grey wire to the left hand side indicators and the Purple wire to the right hand side
indicators. If you are making the connections in the engine bay then we recommend either soldering the connections
or use good quality crimp connectors. IDC connectors are not recommended for use in the engine bay. Very rarely the
indicators are negatively (Earth) switched; if this is the case please contact Sparkrite for assistance.
Q. Do I need to connect the 2 indicator wires?
A. No, simply remove the fuses from the wires and leave coiled up with the ends covered by insulating tape.
Q. What are the 2 small switches for on the back of the alarm for?
A. The switch marked 1 controls the alarms voltage drop circuit, this triggers the alarm when it detects any sudden
drop in the battery voltage such as caused by the interior light coming on. Normally you would want this active so
switch 1 would be in the on position. If for any reason you wish to disable this, put switch 1 to the off position.
Switch 2 controls the alarms passive arm function. This allows the alarm to arm itself when it detects the last door
closing. You disarm the alarm using the remote control.Do not use the passive arming feature if you are using the
optional central door locking interface.
Q. What is the Valet switch for?
A. This is used to disable the alarm. It is useful if you need to take the car in for servicing, especially if the passive
arming feature is used.To enable the feature first turn the cars ignition on, then turn the valet key to the 9: oclock
position. To disable this feature first turn on the cars ignition, then turn the valet switch anti clockwise to the 12:
oclock position.
NB: You must have the vehicle ignition on to alter the switch position, failure to follow this procedure will result in
the alarm triggering as soon as the arm up period expires.
Q. How do I connect the immobilisation wires?
A. The immobilisation is performed by preventing the starter motor from operating. This is done by breaking the
power to the starter solenoid.
Identify the thin wire which when disconnected stops the starter motor from operating; connect the Orange wire to
this. The Brown wire is then connected to the position on the solenoid where the original wire came from.
Q. Do I have to connect the immobilisation wires?
A. No if you do not require this feature simply cover the ends of Orange and Brown wires (2 way white plug) with
insulating tape and leave disconnected.
Q. Will the alarm work if the boot/bonnet is opened?
A. If you vehicle is fitted with boot/bonnet switches which operate a courtesy light then the alarm will trigger on the
voltage sense. If the vehicle does not have these fitted as standard then you will need to fit a switch kit. These can be
obtained from our sales department asking for part number SR910.
Q. Are spare remote controls available?
A. Yes, the remote controls are available from our sales department; simply tell us the model of the alarm and the
serial number which is on the rear of the main alarm unit or the back of the existing remote control.
Q. How do I adjust the shock sensitivity?
A. There is an adjuster located on the back of the alarm, remove the rubber plug and you can adjust the sensitivity
using a small flat bladed screwdriver. To make it more sensitive turn the adjuster slightly more towards the max
mark (clockwise), movement towards the min mark (anticlockwise) decreases the sensitivity.
Q. Where do I fit the SR915 ultrasonic detector?
A. The sensors are to the top of the A posts between the windscreen and side windows. These should face in
towards the rear of the car and can be secured by pushing the tail down the trim on the A posts.
Q. How do I adjust the sensitivity of the SR915 ultrasonic unit?
A. On the main body of the SR915 in the top left hand corner next to the LED is a small rubber plug, remove this
plug and the adjuster is below. To increase the sensitivity turn this adjuster slightly towards the max
mark(clockwise), to reduce the sensitivity turn the adjuster slightly towards the min(anticlockwise).

SR911 - Central Door Locking Interface
click here to download instructions

The central door locking interface allows your existing central locking to be controlled by your Sparkrite car alarm.
This enables the alarm to lock your car doors when you arm the alarm and to unlock when you disarm the alarm.

The SR911 connects easily to most Sparkrite alarms, and can accommodate both electrical and pneumatic systems.
On some systems, an additional door actuator (Sparkrite part number AC1) may be required.

Before you begin, check whether the additional part AC1 is required by attempting to operate your existing central
locking from the passenger side. If you can only lock and unlock all the doors from the drivers side then you will
need the AC1 fitted into the drivers door.
You will need a 12v test light or a multimeter.

Mounting the unit

Mount the interface in a suitable location inside the vehicle cockpit bearing in mind the wiring harness must be able
to reach the vehicles central locking control unit.

Connecting the interface

Important: Take care during testing and installation to ensure live wires do not short to Earth.
RED wire. This is the main power supply to the central locking interface. Locate and connect the RED wire to a
permanent 12v supply, do not connect to the alarm supply wire (RED)
BLACK wire. Connect the Black wire to a good Earth point on the vehicle.

Interface connector

Connect the ORANGE/WHITE from the SR911 to the ORANGE/WHITE wire from the alarm.

Installation

Most central locking systems fall into one of the following categories.
1. Electro-Mechanical operated by switching contacts to Earth (Earth Switched)
2. Electro-Mechanical operated by switching contacts to 12v positive (Positive Switched)
3. Pneumatic Systems operated by connection to Earth or 12v. Contacts driving an air pressure pump (Pneumatic).
Locate the drivers door actuator on the vehicles wiring diagram. This actuator will have a switch associated with it.
On the diagram the switch may be labelled with Open/Unlock and Close/Lock the wires connected to these contacts
are the ones of interest.
Locate these wires in the vehicle and connect the Orange wire from the SR911 to the Close/Lock wire and the Blue
wire from the SR911 to the Open/Unlock wire.
The Green and the Purple wire from the SR911 are not needed and can be taped up and left.
You now need to identify which type of central locking system your vehicle is fitted with, i.e. pneumatic, Earth
switched or 12v switched.
Earth Switched systems-
Connect the Yellow and Grey wire from the SR911 to a good Earth (can be joined to the Black wire on the SR911).
Positive 12v switched systems-
Connect the Yellow and Grey wires from the SR911 to a permanent 12v supply (can be joined to the Red wire on the
SR911).
If you do not feel confident about connecting the SR911 to your existing system then you may use the additional door
actuator AC1 to simplify the installation.
IMPORTANT: Please make sure of the polarity of the existing system before starting,

Connecting the SR911 using an actuator

IF you have to fit the additional door actuator, or if you do not feel confident about fitting the SR911 to your existing
locking system then it is possible to connect using an AC1.

Dia 1:


NOTE: Do not remove any of the cars original equipment when fitting the actuator.

Wiring up the actuator

Dia 2:


The Actuator is fitted into the drivers side door and the wiring should be as follows.
The RED, GREY and YELLOW wires from the interface all go to a permanent 12v connection in the vehicle.
The PURPLE, GREEN and BLACK wires from the interface all go to a good Earth.
The BLUE from the interface is connected to the RED (or close wire) on the actuator and the ORANGE from the
interface connects to the BLUE (or open wire) on the actuator.

Dia 3. Schematic diagram of connection to existing central locking system:


Pneumatic Systems: Please contact our helpline for advice on connecting to this type of system.
Testing the installation

Connect up the interface harness and close all the doors.
Arm the alarm, the alarm should chirp and the doors all lock.
Disarm the alarm, the alarm should chirp twice and the doors all unlock.

If the doors unlock when you arm the alarm and lock upon disarm then reverse the connections on the ORANGE and
Blue wires from the SR911.
If the protection fuses in the SR911 blow then you have the wrong polarity selected e.g. wired as an Earth switched
system for a positive switched car and vice versa.
This completes the installation of the central locking interface, secure all wiring neatly.

SR915 - Ultrasonics
click here to download instructions

The SR915 ultrasonics provides additional interior protection for the vehicle which protects against entry through the
windows or sunroof.
The SR915 fills the vehicles interior with a field of sound setting up a steady pattern.
When the alarm is armed and the entry delay has expired (normally 30 seconds), any intrusions into the steady field
generated by the SR915 are detected and this will cause the alarm to trigger.
Installing the SR915 sensor heads

The SR915 has two small ultrasonic heads which generate the sound field and the small control module which
contain the electronics that detect the disturbances to the sound field.
The two small sensor heads should be mounted at the top of the A pillars between the windscreen and the side
windows. The sensor heads should face towards the rear of the vehicle and be pointing inwards towards a spot in the
centre of the back window.
The tail of the sensors can be pushed down the back of the trim to secure the heads or alternatively they may be
secured using the small self tapping screws provided through the small hole in the plastic tails.
Please ensure the heads are not blocked by the sun visors and that they have a clear view to the back of the vehicle.
Route the wires down the windscreen pillars and under the dashboard to the control unit.
Installing the control unit
Select a suitable mounting position for the control unit under the dashboard in the driver or front passenger
compartment. Route the wires from the ultrasonic heads to the control unit and plug into correct sockets as marked.
The heads are marked TX and RX on silver foil labels for identification and should be plugged into the similarly
marked sockets on the control unit.
If the silver foil labels are missing the heads can be identified by the small moulded letters on the tails the RX
being marked with an R and the TX being marked with a T.
Do not mount the control unit until you finish setting up and adjusting the sensitivity.
Plug the SR915 into the 3 way socket vacant on the rear of the main alarm unit.
Sensitivity adjustment
The adjuster which controls the sensitivity is located at the top left of the control unit next to the indicator LED.
Remove the small rubber blanking plug to gain access to the adjuster itself. Turning the adjuster ANTI-CLOCKWISE
decreases the sensitivity of the ultrasonics and turning the adjuster CLOCKWISE increases the sensitivity.
Turn the adjuster to the middle position.
Sit in the rear of the vehicle with all doors and windows closed. Position the control unit where the RED LED can be
seen.
Arm the alarm using the remote control, wait for the 30 second entry delay to expire (the alarm will not trigger until
the delay expires).
Adjust the sensitivity so that movement in the rear of the vehicle causes the RED LED to illuminate.
If the alarm triggers disarm using the remote control, rearm and continue until setting up is complete. Do not set the
unit more sensitive than necessary as this will result in false triggering of the alarm.
Make sure when leaving the vehicle and arming the alarm that seat belts are fully retracted and windows and sunroof
are closed. Pets must not be left in the vehicle when the alarm is armed.

Complete the installation by securing the wiring and control unit neatly.


SRFL001 - FOG LAMPS

When drilling the mounting holes for the lamps ensure you do not drill into wiring, water or
hydraulic pipes.
Ensure the wiring cannot be damaged by sharp edges and is secured in place.
Make the connections using good quality crimp connectors or soldered connections.
IMPORTANT: Do not leave the Fog Lights switched on when the vehicle is parked.
Do not wash or immerse the glass lens when hot.

Dia 1. Wiring instructions:


The vehicle battery must be disconnected whilst making connections.
Mount a suitable On/Off switch inside the vehicle rated at a minimum of 10 Amps.
For switches rated below this a relay must be used.
Connect the BLACK wire (Earth) from each of the lamps to either a good chassis Earth or to
the vehicle battery negative.
Connect the WHITE wire from each of the lamps to the 10 Amp switch using suitable wire.
Connect a length of suitable wire fitted with a 15 Amp fuse from the remaining terminal on the switch to a 12 volt (+) supply
at the battery or the fuse box.
Connecting using a relay.
If using a lower rated switch then a relay must be used. Obtain a suitable automotive relay and connect as follows.
Dia 2. Typical automotive relay:


Normally automotive relays have 5 contacts on them labelled,
NO (87). Normally open contacts.
NC (87a). Normally closed contacts.
COMMON (30).
COIL (85/86).
The common connection (30)on the relay is wired to a permanent 12v supply.
The normally closed connection (87a)is not used.
The normally open connection (87)is wired to the WHITE wires on the fog lamps.
One side of your switch is connected to one of the coil contacts (85); the other side of the switch
is connected to a 12v supply. The remaining coil contact (86) is connected to a good chassis Earth.
When the switch is closed the relay coil is energised causing the relay to switch over allowing the
12v at the common to flow through the NO connector illuminating the fog lamps.

Dia 3. Scematic:


General guide and troubleshooting



Fitting the alarm

(Some wires may not be applicable depending on alarm model)
When connecting the harness wires ensure that the last connection to be made is to
the Red wire.
Connecting the power supply is generally the easiest as you can connect the Red
and Black wires direct to the battery; however there are certain instances when you
may need to find alternative locations.
If the vehicle has a very large battery (diesels etc) or a low wattage courtesy light then
the alarm may not pick up the very small voltage drop caused by this light coming on,
you may have to relocate the Red wire to the cars fusebox.
The fuse that protects the courtesy lights is an ideal position for the Red wire as the
voltage drop is larger here than at the battery. Find the permanently live side of the fuse
and attach the Red wire here.
The fitting of the Black (Earth) wire is simpler as all that is required is a good chassis
Earth. Avoid using the alarm bracket as the anti-corrosion paint will prevent a good
contact. The negative terminal of the battery is a perfectly acceptable connection point
for the Black wire.

Wires


Yellow wire
If the alarm has a Yellow (fan sensing) wire then this wire is used by the alarm to disable
the alarms voltage sense when it detects the cooling fan running.
The connection of this wire depends on the particular type of fan in the vehicle. If your
cooling fan starts up with the vehicle ignition turned off then a connection must be
made using this wire. It should be positioned between the thermal switch and the fan motor.
If your vehicles cooling fan does not start with the ignition off then simply connect the
Yellow wire to a good chassis Earth.
Blue wire
The Blue wire is a negative trigger, this reacts to being grounded. This is connected to
the door switch which connects the Blue wire to Earth when the door is opened.
This wire is also used if the alarm has passive arming as the passive arming is started
when the alarm detects the last door closing.
If you do not wish to connect the Blue wire to the door switch then it must be connected
to a permanent 12v supply it cannot be left disconnected.
I ndicator wires (Grey and Purple)
These two wires are used to flash the cars indicators when the alarm is armed, disarmed
or triggered. The alarm produces 12v pulses which are fed down these wires to the
indicator bulbs.
Using a 12v test lamp locate the wire at the indicator switch which lights the test lamp
when the Right indicator flashes, connect the Purple wire to this. Find the wire which
lights the test lamp when the Left indicator flashes and connect the Grey wire to this.
Pink wire
This is used by the alarm to check whether the vehicles ignition is on. This is used to
prevent accidental arming of the alarm if the engine is running.
Using a 12v test lamp locate a wire on the ignition switch that has 12v on it when the
ignition switch is in the Start and Run position, connects the Pink wire to this position.
Do not use the auxiliary power supply to radios, cassettes etc.
Orange / White wire
This wire is only used to control the additional central locking interface part no SR911.
If the SR911 is not being used do not connect this wire, cover the exposed end in insulating
tape and leave coiled up inside the protective rubber boot that covers the harness plugs.
Green wire
This is the alarm antenna and must not be cut or connected to anything. Leave extended along the harness or hanging
down, ensure the end of the wire does not come in contact with metal or immersed in water as the operating range of
the remote controls will be affected.
I mmobilisation wires (Orange/Brown)
These operate by preventing the starter motor from operating. They remove the power
supply from the starter solenoid.
Identify the wire on the starter solenoid which prevents the starter motor operating when removed from the solenoid
terminal. Connect the Brown immobiliser wire to this terminal. Connect the Orange wire to the original wire
removed from the solenoid.
Please keep the Orange and Brown wires as short as possible.


Testing the installation
Please note not all tests may be available depending on the model number.
Please check your manual for the specific features available to your alarm.
1. Check all connections are secure and the vehicle battery is connected.
2. Ensure the car ignition is turned off
3. Press the remote control button. The alarm will arm with one chirp and one
flash of the indicators (depending on model).
4. Press the remote control again and the alarm will disarm with two chirps and
two flashes of the indicators (depending on model )
5. Arm the alarm. Wait until the alarm indicator LED starts to flash, open a door
ensuring the interior light comes on. This will trigger the alarm. Disarm the alarm
with the remote control.
6. Repeat the arming procedure and trigger via the shock sensor. Disarm the alarm.
7. Arm the alarm and then trigger by opening a door. Now attempt to start the vehicle
(The vehicle starter solenoid should NOT operate with the alarm sounding.)
8. Test the remote panic facility by holding down the remote control button for 4 seconds.
The alarm should trigger. Release the remote control button and the press again to disarm
the alarm.
9. If your alarm comes with the ultrasonic unit then open one of the car windows, arm
the alarm and wait until the LED begins to flash. Insert your arm through the window
and wave. The alarm should trigger.
If the tests are satisfactory then finish the installation by securing the harness.




Troubleshooting
Q) The alarm does not respond to the remote control after fitting.
A) Please check the 12v connection to the alarm; Ensure a permanent satisfactory supply is available to the alarm. If
the alarm has a Pink wire then attempt to trigger the alarm using the Panic feature. Does the alarm trigger on the
panic? If so the alarms Pink wire is fitted incorrectly.
What have you done with the Yellow wire?
If not being used for the cooling fan then this wire must be connected to a good chassis Earth.
Q) The alarm does not sound when the door is opened.
A) Depending on model number the alarm should trigger on the voltage sensing, the Blue
wire should detect the door opening and if fitted with the SR915 ultrasonics they should
detect the disturbance created when opening the door
If the alarm does not have a blue wire then check the courtesy light comes on when the door
is opened. If it does then arm the alarm, wait for the LED to flash and then operate the cars headlights. This should
trigger the alarm, if this works then relocate the alarms Red wire to
a more sensitive position such as the fuse box.
If the alarm has a Blue wires then check the connection to the door switch.
Q) The alarm does not trigger on the SR915 ultrasonics.
A) The SR915 unit has an adjuster to increase the sensitivity of the ultrasonics. To increase the sensitivity remove the
rubber protective bung from the unit, the adjuster is below this
and will require a small flat bladed screwdriver to perform the adjustment. Turn the adjuster
slightly clockwise, retest the alarm and if necessary repeat the procedure. Do not set more
sensitive than necessary or false triggering will occur.
Q) The alarm false triggers on the SR915 ultrasonics.
A) Please make sure that the ultrasonics are not set more sensitive than necessary, adjust
if required. The ultrasonics will react to any disturbance to the field they create inside the vehicle so make sure
nothing could move inside the vehicle such as free swing air freshners etc, also ensure the seat belts are fully
retracted.
Also check that air vents are closed as excessive air movement may lead to false triggering
of the alarm.
Q) The alarm does not trigger on the shock sensor.
A) The sensitivity of the shock sensor can be increased with the adjuster. Remove the rubber protective bung and
using a small fat bladed screwdriver turn the adjuster slightly clockwise, retest and if necessary increase slightly
more until satisfactory operation is achieved.
Q) The shock sensor is too sensitive.
A) Turn the sensitivity down using the adjuster, turn slightly anticlockwise. Make sure the alarm is held tightly in the
bracket, as a loose fit makes the alarm much more sensitive.
Q) My alarm no longer responds to the remote control.
A) Has the alarm lost the 12v supply for any reason such as the battery going flat or any garage work done on the
vehicle which involved disconnecting the battery? If this has occurred then you will need to perform a reset. This
simply involves removing the fuse from the alarms Red wire, leave out for 30 seconds, replace the fuse and operate
the remote control.
Q) The car still starts after fitting the immobilisation feature.
A) The immobilisation only happens when the alarm is triggered; therefore you need to try
to start the vehicle when the alarm is sounding.

1. i have the wireing diagram for the alarm,
But i need to know which wires they have to be atached to the car. The main box is attached in the car but all the wires
have got to be attched to the apporite places?
Hope the pic is of some help?