TEX 110

DYEING AND PRINTING

BRIEF COURSE OUTLINE
Introduction
Process Flows & Substrates Water & Effluents

Pretreatment
Singeing Desizing Scouring Bleaching Mercerization

Coloration
Color & Colorants Dyeing Printing

Finishing
Finishing Types Evaluation of Finishing
 EVALUATION SCHEME

True perfection is an unreachable aim, but however is worth to be pursued with all our strength
ACADEMIC RESOURCES
Textbook

Readings
AD Broadbent, Basic EPG Gohl & LD Vilensky
Vilensky,,
Principles of Textile Textile Science, 2nd Ed.
Coloration,, SDC, UK, 2001
Coloration Longman, India, 1987
LWC Miles, Textile Printing, Textile Terms and
Revised 2nd Ed., SDC, UK, Definitions, 11th Ed. The
2003 Textile Institute, UK, 2002
D Heywood, Textile RM Christie, Environmental
Finishing, SDC, UK, 2003 Aspects of Textile Dyeing,
Dyeing,
Woodhead,, UK, 2007
Woodhead
Web

www.scribd.com
www.e--textile.org
www.e
INTRODUCTION TO WET PROCESSING
TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Fabrication/ Dry Processing Wet Processing

TEXTILE RAW MATERIALS

Manufacturing process starts with the production or harvesting of

raw fiber. Fibers used in textile processing can be harvested from
natural sources or manufactured from natural or synthetic polymer.
GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION BY TYPE AND END-
END-USE
GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION BY TYPE AND END-
END-USE
TEXTILE MANUFACTURING SEQUENCE
• Staple Yarn
Fiber Yarn Formation • Filament Yarn

• Grey Woven Fabric

Fabric Formation • Grey Knit Fabric

• Finished Woven Fabric

Wet Processing • Finished Knit Fabric

End-Product
End- • Apparel
Manufacture • Home Tex, Technical Tex

Fibers usually undergo four main processing stages in textile mills.

In addition to apparel as end-
end-product, home or technical textile are
also produced within these stages but in different ways.
WET PROCESSING OF TEXTILES

The third stage involve wet operations which consume large

amount of water and chemicals and also generates enormous
amount of wastewater or effluents.
WET PROCESSING STAGES
PROCESSING ROUTE BASED ON SUBSTRATE
WET PROCESSING OF COTTON

Staple Yarn Fabric

Not For
Singeing & Singeing & Knits
Mercerization Desizing

Scour & Bleach Scour & Bleach

Yarn Dyeing Mercerization

Dyeing &/or Finishing

Printing
WET PROCESSING OF POLYESTER
Staple or Woven/Knit
Filament Yarn Fabric

Scour & Scouring

Dyeing

Presetting

Dyeing &/or Finishing

Printing
WET PROCESSING OF POLYESTER
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

A series of operations that prepare the textile product for subsequent

finishing treatments such as dyeing, printing and finishing. The main
operations are singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching & mercerization.
WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The process of burning protruding fibers to deliver a smooth fabric

surface. An oxidizing flame that does not leave any sooty residue on
fibers is used and then passed through a quenching unit. Desizing units
are usually used in conjunction with the singeing process.
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

This treatment is carried out on woven fabrics to remove sizing

ingredients from the warp so that the fabric absorb the liquor of
subsequent processes homogenously. Enzymes are used to biologically
degrade starch and transform it into water soluble by-
by-products.
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The process of removing impurities such as wax, oil, fat from fiber to
render it absorbent is called scouring. This is carried out in alkaline
conditions (with NaOH
NaOH)) under high pressure and temperature (above
100 oC) in presence of detergent, sequestering agent and wetting agent.
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The removal of natural coloring matters from fiber to achieve whiteness

is called bleaching. The most common bleaching agent is stabilized
alkaline solution of hydrogen peroxide. After treatment, the bleaching
agent must be removed by washing or through the use of enzyme.
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The treatment of cotton with strongly alkaline solution to improve

tensile strength, luster and dye uptake is called mercerization. It is
usually carried out after scouring and/or bleaching in cold condition.
WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

Dyeing is employed to give an all-

all-over shade to the fabric. In dyeing
process, dye molecules come into contact with fiber surface, form a thin
layer and diffuse into it. Dyeing may be carried out in batch or semi-
semi-
continuous or continuous technique and in fiber or yarn or fabric state.
WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

Printing is a process by which colored patterns are produced on the

fabric. The color is applied to the fabric according to planned design and
then treated with heat, steam or chemicals to fix the color on the fabric.
Finally the fabric is washed to remove any excess paste and then dried.
WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY
 WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

It includes the final operations necessary for making the textile

attractive and suitable for end-
end-use. It imparts the final aesthetic,
chemical and mechanical properties to the fabric as per end-
end-use
requirements. Examples include drying, softening, calendaring etc.
WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY