FABRIC AND

GARMENT
FINISHING
ASSI GNMENT 2 WASHI NG AND PRESSI NG TECHNI QUES AND
EQUI PMENTS
WASHING TECHNIQUES AND
MACHINERY
CLOTHI NG HAD BEEN HAND-WASHED FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, BY FLUSHI NG WATER
THROUGH THE FABRI C TO REMOVE LOOSE DIRT, RUBBI NG WI TH SOAP TO REMOVE
OI LS AND STAI NS, AND APPLYI NG FRAGRANCES TO COVER ODORS.
WASHING TECHNIQUES
Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The
combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much
wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used
by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of
fabrics. However, "perc" as it is called in the dry-cleaning industry is classified as
a hazardous air pollutant by the Clean ir ct. Perc is to!ic. "ry cleaning
customers should ta#e their garments out of the plastic bags and air their
garments after dry cleaning.
Pressing after cleaning should also be considered. $ost anyone can press wool
pants but it ta#es a s#illed professional presser to do a %uality &ob on linen and
sil# items. 'f the dry cleaner cannot e!plain the difference in pressing linen and
sil# versus wool directly and authoritatively, it is doubtful that these garments will
be handled with the care they re%uire. (inen can withstand higher heat when
ironed, and should be pressed when damp. )il# re%uires a lower temperature
iron and should be steam ironed, preferably with a press cloth. *ool should be
pressed with steam and a moderate temperature.
WET CLEANING
This is described as a new process by some cleaning establishments. They
advertise that their process will replace dry cleaning and the environmentally
dangerous solvents they use. However, until this process is perfected and proven
to effectively replace dry cleaning, caution should be used by the consumer. *et
cleaning is accomplished by using water based chemicals. )ome cleaning
establishments actually claim to have this service but &ust hand wash the
garment and then professionally press the garment. This process wor#s well with
some fabrics which have manufacturers labels stating "hand wash". +arments
with labels printed "dry clean only" may shrin#, fade, or wrin#le so badly that
pressing does not restore then original loo# of the fabric.
PROFESSIONAL LAUNDERING

This is offered by most dry cleaners. *ashable garments are professionally
washed and pressed. $en,s and women,s shirts are often bleached and starched
according to the manufacturer,s label. )ome of the laundering is done with very
hot water which may shrin# the interfacing or stiffening used in collars and cuffs.
(ess e!pensive garments may use interfacing that either shrin#s or comes loose
with very hot water. These garments cannot be fi!ed.
LEATHER CLEANING must be done by professional leather cleaner. *hen
purchasing leather garments, as# the store salesperson to recommend locations
that clean leather. (eather garments are an investment that should be cleaned by
s#illed professionals. 'f you have leather garments that need cleaning and you
can,t remember where you purchased them, call a store that currently sells
leather garments and get their recommendation for leather cleaners. dditionally,
leather &ac#ets and coats may need the lining replaced after a few years" wear
WASHING METHODS FOR DIFFERENT FABRICS:
ACETATE: "ry clean only.
ACRYLIC: $achine wash warm using warm water, softener may be added
during the final rinse cycle. $achine dry using low temperature, remove promptly
when done.
COTTON: $achine wash warm, tumble dry low. -se cool iron.
METALLIC COTTON: $achine wash warm, delicate cycle, tumble dry low,.
Cool iron may be used.
FLEECE: $achine wash, warm and remove %uic#ly to avoid matting. Hang to
dry. do not use dryer.
LINEN: "ry clean is recommended and retains the original crisp finish to the
fabric. Hand wash in mild soap no chlorine bleach dry by laying flat on
clean non-colored towel. /ote0 Hand washing softens the feel of the linen which
is sometimes preferred.
LYOCELL: (yocell garments may be either machine washable and dryable or
drycleanable. 1ead the label. *ashable lyocell has the strength and ease of care
of other easy-care fabrics. $achine wash and dry at low temperature. 1emove
from dryer as soon as the garment is dry. 'f ironing is re%uired, use a moderately
warm iron.
LYCRA: Hand or machines wash in lu#ewarm water. /ever use chlorine
bleach on any fabric containing (ycra. 2ither drip dry or machine dry using low
temperature settings.
LYCRA VELVET: Hand or machine wash in lu#ewarm water. /ever use
chlorine bleach on any fabric containing (ycra. 2ither drip dry or machine dry
using low temperature settings.
MICROFI BERS: crylic, nylon and polyester microfibers are machine
washable, machine dryable or dry cleanable 3ollow the instructions for washing
fabrics consisting of these individual fibers.
NYLON: $ost items made from nylon can be machined washed and tumbled
dried at low temperatures. -se warm water and add a fabric softener to the final
rinse cycle. To minimize static electricity use a dyer sheet when machine drying.
1emove articles from the dyer as soon as the tumbling cycle is completed. 'f
ironing is re%uired, use a warm iron.
Today, the use of medical te!tiles is very important for health and hygienic
purposes. lthough some of medical te!tile materials are disposable, surgery
gowns are usually laundered and re-used. fter the laundering it is desirable to
have these gowns #eeping some of their properties such as anti-microbial and
tenacity properties. 3or this in mind, different surgery gowns were washed and
compared.
'n this wor#, a special blend of polyester carbon anti-microbial and other surgery
gowns were stained with blood and later washed with both conventional method
and with ultrasonic energy. The results were also analyzed
spectrophotometrically and the tenacity of the fabrics were determined.
*ashing machine technology was developed as a way to reduce the drudgery of
this scrubbing and rubbing process, by providing an open basin or sealed
container with paddles or fingers to automatically agitate the clothing. The
earliest machines were often hand-operated but were built with the belief that the
machine itself was faster and easier to operate than washing the clothing by
hand directly. s electricity was not commonly available until at least 4567, these
early machines were often operated by a low-speed single-cylinder hit and miss
gasoline engine.
EFFECTIVE HAND WASHING CYCLE:
4. 1emove stains first- so they will not become permanent
8. *ater temperature is important- lu#ewarm at first, continue in hot water
6. 'f your water is hard-soften it- put soda or water-softening agent into the water
before it is heated.
9. :lue with caution- a little goes a long way
;. )tarch-ma#ing simplified
<. 3or snow-white clothes- bleach occasionally
=. *hen washing is done- clean each part of the machinery.
+enerally, the best rule is to follow the care instructions on the manufacturer,s
label. 'f there is no label and>or you wish to wash a garment or fabric at home
instead of dry clean, the properties of each fabric will help you determine the care
of the fabric or garment.
WASHING MACHINERY
washing machine, clohes washe!, or simply washe!, is a machine designed
to wash laundry, such as clothing, towels and sheets. The term is mostly applied
only to machines that use water as the primary cleaning solution, as opposed to
dry cleaning ?which uses alternative cleaning fluids, and is performed by
specialist businesses@ or even ultrasonic cleaners.
ll washer machines wor# by using mechanical energy, thermal energy, and
chemical action. $echanical energy is imparted to the clothes load by the
rotation of the agitator in top loaders, or by the tumbling action of the drum in
front loaders. Thermal energy is supplied by the temperature of the wash bath.
The modern process of water removal by moroto into use until electric motors
were developed. )pinning re%uires a constant high-speed power source, and
was originally done in a separate device #nown as an e!tractor. load of
washed clothing would be transferred from the wash tub to the e!tractor bas#et,
and the water spun out. These early e!tractors were often dangerous to use
since unevenly distributed loads would cause the machine to sha#e violently.
$any efforts have been made to counteract the sha#ing of unstable loads, first
by mounting the spinning bas#et on a free-floating shoc#-absorbing frame to
absorb minor imbalances, and a bump switch to detect severe movement and
stop the machine so that the load can be manually redistributed. $any modern
machines are e%uipped with a sealed ring of li%uid that wor#s to counteract any
imbalances.
HISTORY OF WASHING MACHINE
2lectric washing machines were advertised and discussed in newspapers as
early as 4579. (ouis +oldenberg of /ew :runswic#, /ew Aersey invented the
electric washing machine around the late 4B77s to early 4577s. He wor#ed for
the 3ord $otor Company at that time, and all inventions that were created while
wor#ing for 3ord under contract, belonged to 3ord. The patent would have been
listed under 3ord and or (ouis +oldenberg. lva A. 3isher has been incorrectly
credited with the invention of the electric washer. The -) patent office shows at
least one patent issued before $r. 3isherCs -) patent number 5<<<== ?e.g.
*oodrowCs -) patent number 58445;@.
General Electric introduced the first top loading automatic also in 459=. This
machine had many of the features that are incorporated into modern machines.
MODERN MACHINES
MODERN WASHI NG MACHI NES ARE AVAI LABLE I N TWO CONFI GURATI ONS: TOP LOADI NG AND
FRONT LOADI NG.
The top loading design or D-a!is clothes washer, most popular in ustralia,
Canada, the -nited )tates and (atin merica, places the clothes in a vertically-
mounted perforated bas#et that is contained within a water-retaining tub, with a
propeller-li#e agitator in center of the bottom of the bas#et. Clothes are loaded
through the top of the machine, which is covered with a hinged door.
WASHING CYCLE
"uring the wash cycle, the outer tub is filled with water sufficient to suspend the
clothing freely in the bas#et, and the movement of the agitator pulls the clothing
downward in the center towards the agitator paddles. The clothing then moves
outward and up the sides of the bas#et to repeat the process. Top-loaders are
not well-suited to cleaning large ob&ects such as pillows or sleeping bags due to
the tendency for them to &ust float on the surface of the water without circulating,
and the aggressive agitator action can damage delicate fabrics.
3ront-loaders control water usage through the surface tension of water, and the
capillary wic#ing action this creates in the fabric weave. front-loader washer
always fills to the same low water level, but a large pile of dry clothing standing in
water will soa# up the moisture, causing the water level to drop. The washer then
refills to maintain the original water level. :ecause it ta#es time for this water
absorption to occur with a motionless pile of fabric, nearly all front-loaders begin
the washing process by slowly tumbling the clothing under the stream of water
entering and filling the drum, to rapidly saturate the dry clothes with water.
PERC DRYCLEANING MACHINE
PERC DRY CLEANI NG MACHI NE, DRY CLEANI NG EQUI PMENT AS
PER THE EUROPEAN STANDARDS. FOR PROVI DI NG
ADDI TI ON FEATURES WHI LE CUSTOMI ZI NG. HAVI NG
HI GHER CAPACI TY, THE ADVANTAGES OF OUR RANGE I S
ENLI STED BELOW:
/o bleeding of embroidery Color
)olvent cooling allows dry cleaning of sil# leather and fur
$inimum solvent consumption
)econd optional heat pump for fast dry
Dariable speed
)afe dry cleaning for delicate fabrics and attachments
)horter cycle duration
2lectric panels for safe operation
2asy access to spare parts
2co-friendly
INDUSTRIAL AUTO WASHING MACHINE
'ndustrial uto *ashing fulfills the
re%uirements of large setups li#e hotels,
motels, restaurants and house#eeping firm.
These machines are e%uipped with
temperature control,
Pneumatic system and control tray etc. These
are manufactured using premium grade raw
material and are widely appreciated for tough
cleaning and gentle care of the e!pensive cloths.
This washing machine that comes with following features0
2asy manual E auto operation with inverter control system and possible
safety wor# wit safety device
High washing efficiency with bailing function, temperature control, precision
drum and avoid damage in cloth previously
'n case of big volume washing ?above 67 F@, it is possible to washing
balanced and minimum noise as using of pneumatic system and air bag gas
sober
'tCs good for towel washing as control function to fit drying bleaching process,
control bo! is made by table type and easy to handle
WASHING CUM DYEING MACHINE
*e offer washing cum dyeing machine which has
stainless steel outer panels. 't is suitable for washing enzymes, denim garment,
cotton E woolens. *ith minimum li%uor ratio, the whole arrangement is provided
with sliding bas#et door. The various types of heating are done with electrical,
steam and burner heated. The various capacities is ranging between 4; to 677
#g.
HYDRO EXTRACTOR
*ashing with high spin e!traction. 3acilitating easy
loading and unloading, there is a suspended drum for
vibration free e!traction. Gur range of washer e!tractor
has fully automatic computer-based operation.
vailable in various capacities, the capacity is ranging
between 4; to ;7 #g.
PRESSING: TECHNIQUES AND
MACHINERY

PRESSI NG I S THE APPLI CATI ON OF HEAT, MOI STURE, AND PRESSURE TO SHAPE, MOLD, OR
CREASE FABRI CS, GARMENTS, OR GARMENT PARTS I NTO THE FORMS I NTENDED BY
THEI R DESI GNERS.

Pressing may be done during assembly to facilitate other operations and improve
%uality or as a final finishing process. There are many types of pressing
e%uipments, some versatile and others that are specific to the type of operation.
)electing the appropriate e%uipment for the fabric and operation is important to
garment %uality and appearance.
Pressing e%uipment is used to prepare components for stitching and to set the
shape in completed garments.
In"#!ocess #!essing or underpressing is used to crease, shape, and>or
smooth components for more accurate seaming. )harp edges on garment
components increase accuracy in sewing.
$inish #!essing o! o%%"#!essing adds the final shape to seams and
garments. *ithout finish pressing even the most well-e!ecuted seams will
not have a pleasing appearance.
The time, temperature, pressure, and types of mechanical devices that are used
for pressing depend on0
?4@ The types of materials used,
?8@ The shape or form that is desired in the final garment, and
?6@ The degree of permanency needed.
The e%uipment used for pressing is designed to control the heat, moisture, and
pressure applied during the pressing operation. )ome e%uipment is designed to
mold or shape the garment.
ELEMENTS OF PRESSING

HEAT is needed in most pressing processes to soften fibers, stabilize, and
set the desired shape. Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibers,
yarns, and fabrics used in a particular style. )ources of heat include heated
surfaces and steam.
STEAM ?moisture@ is the fastest means of transferring heat into the fabric.
)team is created by heating water in a pressure>boiler. The higher the
pressure, the hotter and drier the steam. 2ffective use of steam reduces the
time for pressing and the amount of pressure re%uired to shape the garment.
"ifferent fabrics re%uire different amounts of moisture and heat. thus, the
amount and dryness of the steam are critical to the effectiveness of the
pressing operation. 2!cessive moisture may cause shrin#age and color
bleeding and must be used under controlled conditions.
PRESSURE is applied to alter shape and increase the permanency of the
mold-ing or creasing. The amount and type of pressure needs to be
appropriate for the fabric characteristics and style. Too much pressure may
distort fabric sur-faces, flatten te!tures, and create permanent garment
and>or fabric damage. Pressure may be applied by a mechanical device or
steam. $echanical pressure re%uires a combination of solid surfaces such as
tables, buc#s, or irons to mold the garment. $echanical pressure is specified
by the amount of force or pounds of pressure per unit of time. *hen a buc#
press or shaping device is not used, air or steam pressure depends on the
shape of the garment as the mold. ir or steam is blown into the garment to
e!pand it to its full size while heat and>or steam are applied. ir or steam
pressure is determined by the amount of pressure at the point of contact with
the garment over the time steam is applied.
Controlling the elements of heat, steam, and pressure to suit the materials
and styling of the garment is part of the adjustment needed for quality
pressing. The amount of pressure and the time of pressure application can be
minimized by drying and rapid cooling the garment during the pressing process.
$oisture and heat are e!tracted by the use of a vacuum return system that
e!tracts steam as it penetrates the fabric. The vacuum pulls the steam through
the fabric, thus drying and %uic#-cooling the fabric to set the new shape.
BASIC PRESSING EQUIPMENT

Gver the last hundred years, pressing e%uipment has undergone considerable
change. 'n the 4B57s menCs suits were pressed with gas-fed irons weighing as
much as 87 pounds. +as was fed by a rubber hose to the center of the iron and
then ignited to produce heat. *ith this system a presser could press 47 menCs
suits in a 47-hour day. The effectiveness of the pressing &ob then, as now,
depended on regulating the time and temperature of the application of heat,
moisture, and pressure. Control of these conditions depended on the s#ill of the
presser.
The old adage "/ecessity is the mother of invention" describes the evolution of
pressing e%uipment as well as other segments of the industry. tailorCs
apprentice that in&ured his arm is given credit for inventing a pressing machine
that reduced the physical demands of pressing and incorporated the principles of
pressing applied today.
TYPES OF PRESSING EQUIPMENT
)olid-surface pressing e%uipment uses a firm surface to apply pressure while
steam and heat mold the fabric, garment, or garment parts. Pressure may be
applied through rolling action, gliding action, or compression. )olid-surface
pressing e%uipment consists of buc# presses, irons, bloc#s, dies, rollers,
collapsible forms, and creasing and folding blades.
(A) BUCK PRESSES
:uc# presses are commonly used by manufacturers of slac#s, s#irts, and &ac#ets
as well as by most dry cleaning plants. Components of a buc# press include a
lower buc# and a complementary moveable head with a lin#age system, buc#
padding, steam and vacuum systems, frame and table, gauges, and manual or
automatic controls for steam, vacuum, heat, and pressure. :uc# presses may be
used for in-process pressing and finish pressing depending on the re%uirements
of the garment.
The actual pressing devices are a lower buc# and complementary head that
move in a scissor li#e pattern. :uc#s vary in length, width, and contour. The
lower surface, or bed buc#, is usually in a fi!ed, horizontal position and supports
the garment during pressing. The head is attached to the lower buc# but is
mobile. The head moves down, when activated by the operator. to cover the
material as it rests on the bed buc#. )team is released and drawn through the
garment by the vacuum system. *hen the head is released, it returns to an open
position. Timing of steam and vacuum applications are critical to a %uality
operation.
:uc# padding serves to distribute steam evenly, reduces the impact of steam on
the fabric, and provides a soft resilient surface for the fabric. Padding protects the
fabric from shine due to high pressure and the hard surfaces. 't also acts as a
buffer to prevent uneven steam pressure or high e&ection velocities, which may
cause steam spots on the fabric being pressed. )ome fabrics are more prone to
these problems than others. d&usting the amount of padding to suit the fabric
improves the %uality of pressing.
:uc# press used for pressing a wide variety of garments, including s#irts, slac#s
and &ac#ets.
(B) IRON PRESSING
I!on #!essing is a manual molding operation in which pressure and heat are
applied with a flat contact surface. The iron-pressing wor# station consists of an
iron, power line, bed buc#, and an iron support system. 'n most cases the
pressing combination also contains a steam and vacuum system. )ystems may
be portable or stationary. The primary difference between iron pressing and buc#
pressing is that the i!on& which serves as the head, and the bed are not lin#ed.
'rons have fle!ible positioning, which is the responsibility of operators. lso with
this type of pressing, the only pressure that is applied is what the op-erator
places on the iron.
BED BUCKS USED WI TH I RON PRESSI NG ALSO VARY I N SI ZE, SHAPE, AND OCCASI ONALLY
SURFACE CONTOUR.
Gn side seams and inseams, slac# manufacturers may use long narrow curved
buc#s that resemble hip curves. This type of buc#, when used with an iron with a
complementary shape in the sole plate, facilitates seam busting of slac#s. /ewer
bed buc#s contain multiple surfaces and varying levels in order that several parts
of a garment may be pressed without repositioning.
'rons are the most commonly used pressing device. 'rons are used e!tensively
for underpressing operations and are more versatile and mobile than other types
of pressing units. They are used e!tensively for in-process pressing and shaping
component parts as well as final pressing of certain garment parts.
(C) BLOCK OR DIE PRESSING
BLOCK OR DI E PRESSI NG is a molding process that establishes a productCs
con-formance to a form. :loc# pressing may change the surface characteristics
and dimensions of a product. The fabric or product is placed on a fi!ed form ?die@
or bloc# before pressure, heat, and>or steam are applied.
Hat and glove manufacturers may use bloc# pressing to shape and mold their
products. nother form of automated die pressing is used to fold and crease
patch poc#ets and poc#et flaps. n operator positions the component over a die
and engages the machine, and folding blades fold and hold the edges to the
underside for creases to be set. This may be used in tandem with automated
sewing to stitch the poc#et in place. "ie presses may also be used to shape and
mold collars, collar stands, and cuffs.
( D) FORM PRESSING
$o!m #!essing e%uipment is used primarily for the final pressing in garment
production or for renovating garments in dry cleaning plants. 3orm presses are
made in the appro!imate shape as the finished garment. The
e!pandable>collapsible bags made in the appro!imate form of the finished
product are the most common type. )team is forced from the inside of the form
through the garment while the form e!pands to fill all the space inside the
garment. This gives the garment its final form and shape.
3orm presses are designed to reduce the amount of positioning and repositioning
time. The entire garment is pressed with one surge of steam. This type of press
smoothes garment fabric, but it does not set creases. 3igures show two different
types form presses with devices that ma#e them specific to certain product lines
and fle!ible to size variation of the product.
FORM PRESS FOR DRESS SHIRT FI NI SHI NG
THAT PRESSES AND SHAPES AN ENTI RE
SHI RT, I NCLUDI NG COLLARS AND CUFFS.
STEAMERS
Seame!s are pressing machines that use only steam to mold and smooth the
garment. The ma&or types of steamers are seam 'es& seam g(ns& seam
#(%%s& an) seam (nnels o! cham*e!s. These devices may be used either to
form or stabilize garment shape or smooth the surface of the fabric.
Seam (nnels o! cham*e!s are used for finish pressing. +arments are de-
wrin#led within a chamber by the average pressure of the circulating steam.
)team chambers may operate intermittently as rac#s of garments are loaded and
unloaded or continuously with garments carried by rail or conveyor. 'n some
conveyorized systems, garments may be carried over the nozzle of a steam &et in
order for the garment to receive the full force of the steam pressure. )ome steam
tunnels have drying chambers that use dry heat to e!tract moisture from the
garments before pac#aging. )team tunnels are used for pressing finished
garments that do not need creasing or molding of any #ind.
TUNNEL FI NI SHER THAT CARRI ES GARMENTS THROUGH A STEAM CHAMBER
FOR FI NAL FI NI SHI NG. STEAM IS USED TO REMOVE WRI NKLES WI THOUT
THE APPLI CATI ON OF SURFACE PRESSURE.
BOILERS, STEAM GENERATORS, AND OR VACUUM SYSTEMS
:oilers, steam generators, and>or vacuum systems are essential parts of any
pressing system as they generate the steam and air pressure that is re%uired.
The %uantity of steam has a ma&or impact on production cycle time and the
appearance of the finished garment. These systems are available in various
sizes and capacities and for various power sources. The safety controls and
efficiency of these units are ma&or concerns in purchasing
e%uipment. The cost and time re%uired for producing steam contribute directly to
the cost of operating the pressing e%uipment and the rate of production. The type
of units used and the specific re%uirements of these units are often uni%ue to the
plant and the e%uipment they operate. *ithout them, the system could not
operate, but their comple!ities and operation are sub&ective to the plant.
TECHNIQUES
To gain s#ill in pressing, you need both the right e%uipment and the H#now-howI.
4. :efore pressing the garment you are ma#ing, always test-press a scrap of the
fabric first. )et the heat indicator for the type of fiber. 3or a blend, set the
indicator for the fiber re%uiring the lower temperature. 3or e!ample, a polyester-
wool blend usually should be pressed at the temperature polyester re%uires.
Test the fabric for the amount of moisture, if any, needed to shape it. lso chec#
to see which type of press cloth gives the best results.
8. Thorough pressing during each construction step contributes to a precision
loo#. 't ma#es following each construction step easier, thus saving you time. Dery
little final pressing is necessary for a garment that has been properly pressed
while being made.
6. True pressing calls for a lowering and lifting ?up and down@ motion. This
flattens the seam or molds the detail without stretching the seam or distorting the
grain. /ever push or drag the iron over the fabric.
9. ll pressing should be done with the grain, &ust as in stitching. Press seams
from the wide to the narrow part of the garment from the hem to the waist of the
s#irt, from the nec# to the sleeves at the shoulder, toward the point of a dart, etc.
;. Press curved seams and shaped areas over a pressing ham, roll or cushion
?3igure4@. This helps mold the garment to the figure. 't also helps the garment
hold its shape.
<. +enerally spea#ing, most pressing is done on the wrong side of the garment
when possible. 'f moisture is needed, use a steam iron or a damp cloth. 3or best
results, dampen the cloth with a sponge. *hen pressing on the right side of the
garment, protect the fabric with a cloth.
=. Press each seam, tuc# or dart before it is &oined to a seam or piece of fabric.
:asting threads should be removed before pressing. )team pressing over
basting stitches will cause mar#ings to appear in the fabric that, for many fabrics,
are almost impossible to remove.
B. :e sure the ironing board pad and cover are completely free of lumps and
folds. $any fabrics will pic# up mar#s or develop a shine when pressed over any
type of unevenness. Feep the soleplate of the iron clean and free of any
scratches.
5. Ta#e care not to over press which can remove surface te!ture and create
shine.
PRESSING DURING CONSTRUCTION
DARTS
3irst press the dart on the fold with the tip of the iron . Then press the dart toward
the center bac# or center front of the garment, using a tailor,s ham .
-nderarm and sleeve darts are turned downward. "ouble pointed and curved
darts need to give at the fold or be clipped at the center for a better line. "arts in
very heavy fabrics may be cut open almost to the point.
Press open darts the same way as an open seam, forming a small bo! pleat at
the point.
Press the fold of the hem after the hem is mar#ed, basted, trimmed, and eased at
the top. However, do not press over the bastings. "irect the iron from the lower
edge of the hem, always with the grain. Jou might put
heavy paper between the hem and the garment to prevent the hemline from
mar#ing the right side . )hrin# the ease in the hem, when necessary, by
steaming it with a steam iron or a damp press cloth. final pressing on the right
side usually improves the appearance of the s#irt. 'f you prefer not to have a
crease in the fold of the hem, steam press the hem by holding the steam iron
slightly above the hem. "o not actually touch the iron to the fabric. Pat the
dampened hem line with your hand to give it a loo#.
SEAMS
3or all seams, press along the stitching line in the same direction as the seam
was sewn. *hen possible, open the seam flat with the tip of the iron.
FLAT SEAM
Place heavy paper under the seam allowance ?see HHemsI above@ to prevent
ridges from showing on the right side. Pressing the seam over a pressing roll will
serve the same purpose. )team if appropriate for the fabric. *hen sewing on
heavy, thic# fabric that does not press easily, a clapper ?pounding bloc#@ may be
used on the seamline to insure a flat seam.
CURVED SEAM
Place curved seams on a tailor,s ham, pressmitt or pressing roll to maintain
roundness. Press as for a flat seam.
ENCLOSED SEAM
Place enclosed seam such as a collar, over the edge of a point press ?3igure =@.
Gpen the seam with the tip of the iron. 1emove from the point presser and turn
right side out. 1oll the seam slightly to the underside and press using a press
cloth. good rule to remember is to press seams open when possible before
pressing them closed.
TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCEMENTS IN PRESSING
dvancements in finishing technology focus on several areas0
?4@ +reater versatility,
?8@ $ore precision in determining e!act pressing re%uirements of fabrics and
finishes,
?6@ 'mproved %uality, and
?9@ 2nergy savings.
+reater versatility is needed to service the wide variety of fashion garments a
manufacturer produces over an e!tended period of time. This may be
accomplished with a variety of ine!changea*le *(c+s ha a!e )esigne) %o!
s#eci%ic ga!men sha#es and a greater range of settings suited to a wider
variety of fabrics. )elf-contained units are moveable wor#stations so components
can be pressed while in a modular production line.
MI CROPROCESSORS with a wide variety of settings can control factors such as
conveyor speed, steam and air volume, and temperatures. Computers determine
settings and control the processing so that each garment can be treated in the
e!act same manner. Carousel pressing combines several pressing operations
that one operator can complete at one wor#station with minimal handling and
control.
2nergy costs are high, and many e%uipment manufacturers have concentrated
efforts to improve the energy efficiency of the pressing systems. This includes
things such as increasing the insulation to prevent heat loss, self-contained
systems so the source of heat and steam is closer to the pressing unit, and the
inclusion of vacuum systems to reduce the amount of heat and steam needed for
effective pressing.
'n some new pressing e%uipment, the steam generator and pressing devices are
included in a self-contained unit that ma#es it portable in the plant.
dvancements in buc# pressing include mo!e a(omaion, with less operator
handling and control. utomated buc# presses control the amount of time,
temperature, and pressure for the steam application and the vacuum cycle. The
head releases automatically when the determined amount of time lapses. This
guarantees e%ual e!posure to steam and e!traction for each garment. *ith
manually operated presses, the operator controls the time of e!posure. )team
tunnels may be automated, too. The steaming, drying, and degree of e!posure
may be controlled by microprocessors to provide consistency throughout the
operation