Agenda

Body Measurements
Sizing System
Pattern Construction Techniques
Production Patterns
Patternmaking
Population
Size chart formation
Somatometric data analysis
Taking body measurements
Pattern construction procedure:
PATTERN PATTERNMAKING MAKING
Virtual display
The Block Patternbasic pattern
that is used as a basic for all adaptations.
The Working Patternis used for
marking out the basic style lines and design
feature.
The final Pattern (Master)is pattern
from which the garment will be cut. It must be
clearly market with all the information required
for making up the garment.
SIZE 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Bust (cm) 80.0 84.0 88.0 92.0 96.0 100.0 104.0

Waist (cm) 62.0 66.0 70.0 74.0 78.0 82.0 86.0

Hips (cm) 86.0 90.0 94.0 98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0


0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
450
500
550
600
650
700
750
800
-34 -29 -24 -19 -14 -9 -4 1 6 11 16 21 26 31 36
dif f er ence (bust and hip)
F
r
e
q
u
e
n
c
y
Straight Straight- -lined lined
(linear) (linear)
Curves Curves
( (non non- -linear linear) )
Others Others
Heights Widths
Lengths
Widths
Girths
Front Profile
Diagram of the Body Measurements
measuring tool-
measuring tape
Bust prominence width
measuring tool-
anthropometre
Stature
Head width
Under arm length
Shoulder width
Bust girth
Crutch depth
(Body rise)
Taking body measurements manually
Measurements required for bodice and sleeve
Across back (back width) (bw) 15
Nape to waist (back
length)
(nw) 14
Bust prominence width (bwp) 13
Across front (front width) (fw) 12
Front length to waist (wfl) 11
Shoulder length (shl) 10
Sleeve length (sl) 9
Front length to bust (bfl) 8
Wrist girth (wrg) 7
Upper arm girth (uag) 6
Elbow girth (eg) 5
Neck girth (ng) 4
Waist girth (wg) 3
Bust girth (bg) 2
Body height (h) 1
Measurements required for skirt and trousers
Waist girth (wg)
3
Crutch depth
(Body rise)
(cd)
26
Inside leg length (lli)
25
Outside leg length (llo)
24
Ankle length
(waist to ankle)
(al)
23
Knee length
(waist to knee)
(kl)
22
Ankle girth (ag)
21
Calf girth (cg)
20
Knee girth (kg) 19
Thigh girth (tg)
18
Upper hip girth (uhg)
17
Hip girth (hg)
16
Height (h) 1
Measurements
The parallel plains with the basic plain
are horizontal plains
and perpendicular to the vertical plains.
Significant horizontal (transversal) plains,
which are situated in important points
on the human body surface, are e.g.
v
n
sh
b
w
h
c
t
k
a
Basic plain
Vertical plains
1 - centre back plain,
2 - side neck plain,
3 - back armhole plain,
4 - side plain,
5 - front armhole plain,
6 - chest plain,
7 - centre front plain,
8 - inside leg plain.
Horizontal plains
v - vertex plain,
n - neck plain,
sh -shoulder plain,
b - bust plain,
w - waist plain,
h - hip plain,
c - crutch plain
t - thigh plain,
k - knee plain,
a - ankle plain.
1 2
3
4
4
5
6
7
Back body
Front body
Apparel patternmaking construction net
The horizontal and vertical contour lines of the cross sections
project into the frontal plane. The flattened human body surface
gives to us systems of respectively perpendicular lines so called
construction net.
The net is the base for the apparel pattern construction.
v
n
sh
b
w
h
c
k
a
v
n
b
w
c
k
a
sh
b
e
wr
Industrial Sizing System
A sizing system A sizing system is a table of numbers which presents the value of each
of the body dimensions used to classify the bodies encountered in the population
for each size group in the system. Sizing system is the parameter complex specified
with the help of essential body dimensions:
Height, Bust girth, Waist girth for men, Hip girth for women
Size intervals are usually
classified according
to height and drop value.
For women, drop value
is defined as the difference
between the hip
circumference and the bust
circumference.
For men, drop value is
defined as the difference
between the chest and the
waist measurement.
SIZE 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Bust (cm) 80.0 84.0 88.0 92.0 96.0 100.0 104.0

Waist (cm) 62.0 66.0 70.0 74.0 78.0 82.0 86.0

Hips (cm) 86.0 90.0 94.0 98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0
104
96
158
women
100
men
80
170
Ready-to-wear garment pattern is produced touse body =constructional dimensions,
that are setting in connection with the proposed sizing assortment
Constructional abscissa
A
B
B
A
C
K

B
O
D
I
C
E
F
R
O
N
T

B
O
D
I
C
E
Body block pattern construction
e.g. Basic formula for front width:
AB = 0.24 * wg + 2,5
Constructional abscissa
(regression equation)
AB
i
= k
i
* D
i
+ q
i
+ e
i
AB
i
constructional abscissa
k
i
regression coefficient
D
i
body dimension
q
i
absolute term
e
i
easy allowances
Pattern construction techniques
Pattern represents the two-dimensional
component parts of a garment.
They are used as a guide for cutting
the fabric, which sewn together form
a three dimensional garment.
The creation of these patterns is
the technique of pattern construction.
Garment shaping by suppression Garment shaping by suppression
Suppression is the reduction of surplus
fabric to obtain a closer fit using darts,
seams, pleats or gathers.
C
C
C
D D
A
A
A
D
E
E
E
E
B B
G
bk fr
G
C
B
D
C A
B E
C
F
SUPRASIONS AREAS
A =front shoulder dart E =side seam
B =front waist dart F =elbow dart
C =back shoulder dart G =wrist dart
D =back waist dart
The construction points are named according to their place on the body
surface and according to the number of construction steps and they are
marked by letters and numbers e.g.
-N1-
horizontal
line n
vertical
line 1
-N2-
horizontal
line n
vertical
line 2
-N21-
horizontal
line n
vertical
line 2
-N21- step 1th
N1
N2
N21
1
2
n
Production patterns
Seams, hems and facings are required to complete a garment pattern
for production.
Shell pattern
Lining pattern
Interlining pattern
Shell
Lining Interlining B
a
c
k
-
I
n
t
e
r
l
i
n
i
n
g
B
a
c
k
-
L
i
n
i
n
g
B
a
c
k
-
S
h
e
l
l
Seam allowances
The seam allowance is the distance from the
stitching line to the perimeter of a cut garment
part. The amount of seam allowance can vary
greatly according to:
(1) The position of the seam and how much stress
it has from body movement, e.g. an armhole and
sleeve head (minimum allowance 1 cm).
(2) The curvature of the seam influences the seam
width, e.g. the curved seam of a panelled bodice
requires a narrower seam where convex and concave
curves have to be joined together (maximum of 1cm).
(3) Enclosed seams require a narrow seam allowance,
e.g. the faced neck and armhole (maximum of 0.7 cm).
(4) The type of machinery required for stitching
the seam influences the seam allowance width
e.g. a flat felled seam
(1)
Flat Felled Seam
(2)
(3)
(2)
stitching line
seam allowance
(5) The type of fabric often
determines the width of the seam
allowance and how it is neatened e.g.:
- loosely woven fabric
- sheer fabric
- thick fabric
- stretch fabric
(6) A wide seam allowance
is required for inserting a zip fastener,
e.g. skirt placket (1.5 to 3.5cm).
Wide seam allowances, known
as inlays, are also required where
a garment is specifically constructed
for altering and letting out (1.5 to 3.5
cm).
Seam for loosely
woven fabric
Seams for sheer fabric
Seam for thick fabric Seam for stretch fabric
Wide seam allowances
Hem allowance
The shape of the hemline influences the width of the hem allowance.
A straight hem lies flat when folded back so the hem can be quite wide.
Curved hems do not lie flat when folded back and therefore the hem
width has to be reduced.
The corners at each end of the hem also have to be considered
so that the turned up hem mirrors the intersecting seam.
Straight hem
Straight hem with
mirrored corners
Circular hem
References
MUSILOVA,B. KOMARKOVA,P. GLOMBIKOVA,V.Basic pattern block construction.
Liberec:TUL 2003, ISBN 80-7083-687-3
LINDSAY CARTER,J ,E.HONEYMAN HEATH,B. Somatotyping: Development and
Applications . Cambridge UniversityPress1999, ISBN 0521351170
Aldrich, W. Metric Pattern Catting. Manchester: Blackwell Publishing2003,
ISBN-1-4051-0278-0.
Winks,J ,M.Clothing Sizes:International Standardization. Thetextile institut Manchester
1997,ISBN 1870812727
FAN,J .YU,W.HUNTER,L.Clothing appearance and fit:Science and
technology.Woodhead Publishing Ltd,Cambridge2004,ISBN1855737450
EBERLE,H. Clothing technology. Europa Lehrmittel Verlag2008,
ISBN-13: 978- 3808562246