with different fiber composition by Mushtaq Mushtaq Mangat, A. M. Rehan Abbasi and Jakub Wiener reprinted from WORLD JOURNAL OF ENGINEERING VOLUME 11 NUMBER 2 2014 MULTI-SCIENCE PUBLISHING COMPANY LTD. World Journal of Engineering World Journal of Engineering 11(2) (2014) 107-110 World Journal of Engineering 1. Introduction Majority of the denim clothing is passed through a washing process. Primary goal of this washing is to give a faded look and certain hand feel, which is a key factor in the marketing of denim clothing (Mazumder, 2010). There are a number of methods and textile auxiliaries available to have a better look and hand feel. The whole process can be divided into three main areas: 1. Desizing and rinsing to remove the sizes applied during weaving 2. Change of color for faded look with the help of bleaching agent and enzymes 3. Application of softener for certain hand feel The whole process modifies the denim surface since some textile auxiliaries are deposited on the Evaluation of change in color of denim fabric after various industrial washing processes with different fiber composition Mushtaq Mushtaq Mangat 1,* , A. M. Rehan Abbasi 1,2 and Jakub Wiener 1 1 Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering; Studentsk 2, Liberec 46117, Czech Republic 2 BUITEMS, Department of Textile Engineering, Quetta 87300, Pakistan *E-mail: mushtaq.mangat@gmail.com (Received 28 January 2013; accepted 19 August 2013) Abstract Traditional denim made by using 100% cotton and novel denim made by using cotton in warp and spun PP in the weft were treated in 11 different ways on industrial garment washing machines with the help of various textile auxiliaries and pumice. There is an obvious change in color of denim. This change was measured by using Spectrophotometer. Reflectance was taken as a variable to observe the intensity of change. Color difference was measured by using the CIELab color difference formula 1976. Color space coordinates (L*, a*, b*) and color difference E were calculated between the untreated denim and treated denim. Key words: Denim fabric, Industrial washes, Color difference World Journal of Engineering surface. This modification leads towards the change in the color. Color is a function of the reflectance and reflectance depends upon the physical and chemical structure of the substance. Selection of textile auxiliaries and process depends upon the final requirement of the customer. There is a lack in the evaluation of color changes due to different washing process. The common practice is to use previous references and hit and trial methods to have required results. In this study, color changes due to most commonly industrial washing process has been measured with the help of the spectrophotometer. This technique may help in prediction of the color changes due to a certain washing process. There is a drastic change in the physical properties due to industrial washing have been observed. Most ISSN: 1708-5284 commonly changes have been achieved by using oxidizing agents (Montazer and Maryan, 2010). Militky and Bajzk (1997) have studied the impact of washing on certain properties of fabric and found significance changes due to washing. Some other reports have also been published in the field of change in color of the fabric after dyeing with the multiple reuses of dye (Agudelo et al., 2008). Alpay et al. (2005) have studied the change in light reflectance and color difference after abrasion of fabric. But very limited work has been done regarding the measurement of reflectance data after industrial washes of denim fabric. Therefore the aim of this work is to study the color difference of denim fabric samples after industrial washes. 2. Methodology Two types of denim fabrics were prepared for experiment; one contains cotton as warp yarn and spun polypropylene weft and other contains cotton in both warp and weft. These two denims were treated with different textile auxiliaries and stones. However, one sample was kept as standard to use for the measurement of changes. Detail of denim samples is given in Tables 1 and 2. All washings were carried out in a mini clothing washing machine. All samples were tested in Spectrophotometer (Data Color Spectra flash) using light source D65 and 10 observer. E CIE 1976 L*a*b* equations was used. Where (1) 3. Results and discussion Table 3 consists of values of the color difference between washed and unwashed denim fabric specimens. Following conclusion can be derived from Table 3: 1. There is a significant change in the color from the standard in all cases. 2. There is a high correlation between novel and traditional denim in L* (0.99) and b* (0.96) and E (0.93). However, in case of a*, correlation is not strong (0.37). 3. Table 3 depicts that there is a drastic change in E when the sample is desized and treated with enzymes. Nevertheless, this change is significant when the sample is treated bleached. 4. In most of the cases the trend of change is similar. Only difference is in intensity of change. There is a significant change in the color from the standard after all washing processes. From the Figures 1 and 2, it can be observed that W4 (desized, = + + = = = 2 2 2 116 16 500 200 ( / ) [ ( / ) ( / )] [ ( / ) ( // )] 108 Mushtaq Mushtaq Mangat et al./World Journal of Engineering 11(2) (2014) 107-110 Table 2. Washing processes applied on denim substrate Applied Faded Application Treated Bleached Application Quick Applied with of with with of Silicone dry Cationic Pumice Water S# Desized Rinsed Enzymes H 2 O 2 Softener Chemical Softener Stone Repellant Peached 1W O O 2W O O 3W O O O 4W O O O 5W O O 6W O O O 7W O O O 8W O O O 9W O O O O 10W O O O 11W O O O Table 1. Traditional and novel denim description Traditional Description Novel Denim Denim Warp Yarn Cotton Dyed, Cotton Dyed, Tex 49.25 Tex 49.25 Weft Yarn Spun PP Cotton Textile 54.0 Tex 49.0 Weave Twill 3/1 Z Twill 3/1 Z gram per sq. meter (GSM) 234 248 Mushtaq Mushtaq Mangat et al./World Journal of Engineering 11(2) (2014) 107-110 109 bleached and applied silicone softener) and W9 (desized, bleached, enzyme and stone washed) made a significant influence compared to other industrial washes, on the color of both the denim samples regardless their structures. Samples have shifted much more towards orange hue with increased lightness. This phenomenon causes a major effect on CIE E value. It also can be seen that with some washes like W1, W2, W8 and W11, the change in color is almost negligible. Table 3. Color difference measurements of washed samples with unwashed sample Novel Traditional Washing Washing Detail Denim Denim Ref label L* a* b* E label L* a* b* E W1 Desized and rinsed 1PP 1.44 0.01 0.22 1.45 1COT 2.79 0.60 1.54 3.24 W2 Desized and treated 2PP 1.17 0.09 0.24 1.20 2COT 2.38 0.48 1.67 2.95 with enzymes W3 Desized, treated with 3PP 7.39 0.15 3.67 8.25 3COT 6.07 0.39 2.47 6.57 enzymes and bleached W4 Desized, bleached and 4PP 10.50 0.25 6.10 12.14 4COT 7.42 0.76 4.60 8.76 applied silicone softener W5 Desized and bleached 5PP 4.11 0.42 3.07 5.15 5COT 2.02 0.55 2.07 2.94 W6 Desized, bleached and 6PP 5.02 0.34 4.16 6.53 6COT 1.97 0.46 2.46 3.19 applied quick dry auxiliary W7 Desized, bleached and 7PP 6.90 0.44 3.59 7.79 7COT 5.52 0.44 2.46 6.06 applied cationic softener W8 Desized, enzyme and 8PP 0.40 0.05 0.05 0.41 8COT 2.94 0.06 0.44 2.97 stone washed W9 Desized, bleached, 9PP 14.89 0.29 5.86 16.00 9COT 11.34 0.66 4.50 12.22 enzyme and stone washed W10 Desized, bleached and 10PP 4.87 0.47 3.32 5.91 10COT 3.29 0.53 2.27 4.03 application of water repellant auxiliary W11 Desized, rinsed and 11PP 1.21 0.16 0.09 1.22 11COT 1.95 0.16 0.22 1.97 peached 1.0 0.2 0.0 0.2 Da D b D L w3 w11 w1 Std w2 w8 w5 w7 w6 w9 w9 16.0 14.0 12.0 10.0 8.0 6.0 4.0 2.0 0.0 2.0 DL axis (ND) Da-Db plan (novel denim ND) w4 w10 0.4 0.6 1.0 0.0 3.0 2.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 w4 w3 w7 w6 w10 w5 w8 w2 w11 w1 Std Fig. 1. Evaluation of washed Novel denim samples in Da-Db and DL plans compared to untreated sample. 110 Mushtaq Mushtaq Mangat et al./World Journal of Engineering 11(2) (2014) 107-110 4. Conclusions Two different denims which have been produced by using two different weft yarns show variation in reflectance after passing through different washing process. CIE Lab parameters and E were selected to do a comparison. Nevertheless, in case of value a*, there is a significant difference and correlation is quite low. Furthermore, study concludes that major variation is linked with bleaching process, whereas, enzyme treatment makes an insignificant changes. Moreover, stone washing creates moderate variation in color. This work provides a guideline to denim manufacturers during the finalization of washing process. References Agudelo C., Lis M., Valldeperas J. and Sato T., 2008. Fabric color changes in polyester micro-fibers caused by the multiple reuse of dispersed-dyes dye baths: Part 1. Textile Research Journal 78(12), 10411047. Alpay H.R., Becerir B. and Akgun M., 2005. Assessing reflectance and color differences of cotton fabrics after abrasion. Textile Research Journal 75(4), 357361. Mazumder S., 2010. Effects of sandblasting with industrial enzyme silicon wash on denim apparel characteristics. Daffodil International University Journal of Science and Technology 5(1), 69. Militky J. and Bajzk V., 1997. Influence of washing/ironing cycles on selected properties of cotton type weaves. International Journal of clothing Science and Technology 9(3), 193199. Montazer M. and Maryan A.S., 2010. A comparative study of different stone and bio-stone washing of denim. http://dspace.lib.fcu.edu.tw/bitstream/2377/3889/1/ce05atc9 02007000018.pdf. 1.0 2.0 0.0 0.2 0.4 Da D b D L w3 w2 w1 w7 w6 w11 Std w8 w5 w9 w9 12.0 10.0 8.0 6.0 4.0 2.0 0.0 2.0 4.0 DL axis (TD) Da-Db plan (traditional denim ND) w4 w10 0.6 0.8 1.0 0.0 2.0 1.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 w4 w3 w7 w10 w6 w5 w11 w2 w8 w1 Std Fig. 2. Evaluation of washed Traditional denim samples in Da-Db and DL plans compared to untreated sample.
Factors Effecting at Student Performance Neatness of The Student Eye Contact of Teacher With Student Month of Birth Student Participation in The Classroom Financial Pressure at Student