Backpacker - January 2014 USA

HIKES
NEAR
YOU
60
LOCAL TRAILS
READERS
CHOI CE
AWARDS
A BARGAIN PACK, AN ULTRA-VERSATILE TENT,
PERFECT-FIT BOOTS, AND MORE
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OF FAME
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READER
FAVORITES
IN EVERY
CATEGORY
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Contents / January 2014
Editors Note 7 Heroes 88
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NOW ON THE IPAD, NOOK, AND KINDLE: BACKPACKER.COM/APPS.
Hike to the cover Skyline Ridge in the Mt. Baker Wilderness, WA. Photo by Kirkendall-Spring
68 DREAM TRIPS
We asked readers to pitch us their ultimate
backcountry quests. Then, for six lucky
winners and their guests, we made dreams
come true. See where they went and what
they learnedand how you can follow in
their footsteps.
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
Skills
46 MAKEOVERS
Six readers. Six complete
skills overhauls. Eighty-four
tips guaranteed to upgrade
your next adventure.
Take your rst overnight.
Cut pack weight in half.
Cook easy, tasty meals.
Take your family camping.
Shoot better photos.
Navigate any terrain.
Gear

57 READER REVIEWS
Our test team rates a
durable ultralight pack, a
versatile four-season tent,
go-anywhere boots, and
more. Plus: your Hall of
Fame picks, and readers
vote on their favorite
brands.

21 WEST
Peaks, coast, glaciers,
lakes. These standout hikes
have them all.
24MOUNTAIN WEST
Go high on these alpine
routes in the Rockies.
29 SOUTHWEST
Explore canyon country on
these 10 reader picks.
8 SUMMIT SUCCESS
Forget Everest. The years
best mountaineering feat
happened on Mt. Whitney.
Learn how 60 BACKPACKER
readers raised more than
$250,000 to help introduce
teens to the wilderness.
10 DREAM JOBS
We helped six young readers
get started in the outdoor
industry.
12 VIEWFINDER
These photos are proof that
BACKPACKER readers hike
to stunning places.
33 MIDWEST
Find solitude at Isle Royale
NP and 9 other spots.
36 NORTHEAST
See endless views of rolling
mountaintops.
43 SOUTH
Discover waterfalls,
beaches, and multisport
adventure.
01 03 05 07 09 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 87
02 26 14 38 08 32 20 44 54 64 74 84 86 88 04 28 16 40 50 60 70 80 10 34 22 46 56 66 76 06 30 18 42 52 62 72 82 12 36 24 48 58 78 68
YOU
ARE
HERE
Your Favorite Hikes
Who knows their local trails best? You. We recruited 38 regional
experts to share their top trips from coast to coast.
01.2014 BACKPACKER 5
XV Crosstrek
Hybrid. Learn more at subaru.com.

Introducing the all-new 2014 Subaru XV Crosstrek Hybrid. The most fuel-efficient
all-wheel-drive hybrid crossover in America.* Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive lets you go
play in the snow while other hybrids stay indoors. Being responsibly built in a zero-
landfill plant makes your footprint just a little lighter. All to help keep winter wonderful.
Love. Its what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.
Subaru is a registered trademark. *Based on EPA-estimated combined fuel economy for 2014 Subaru XV Crosstrek Hybrid models compared to AWD hybrid vehicles within Polks CUV segment.
Actual mileage may vary.
Make tracks,
dont leave them.
By Dennis Lewon
Editors Note
We decided to limit circula-
tion, as far as possible, to those
who are already backpacking,
wrote publisher William Kemsley
in that rst issue. We decided
not to sell BACKPACKER on
newsstands or in bookstoresto
avoid attracting those who have
not already started. Fortunately,
the magazine survived that ill-
advised strategy, and 40 years
of LNT camping later, we know
that the fear of excessive hiking
was a tad overblown. Indeed, we
like nothing more than helping
someone take his or her rst
backpacking trip (see pages 46
and 70). We want all peopleno
matter their background or ex-
perienceto enjoy the outdoors,
and were condent that anyone
who loves the wilderness will
also protect it.
But when I read that introduc-
tory letter in Issue #1, I recognize
BACKPACKERs defining DNA,
a trait that was baked into the
brand from the very beginning:
Readers come first. In 1973, the
environmental effects of the rec-
reation boom were still unknown,
so we prioritized preserving
what backpackers wanted
mostquality wildernesseven
if that meant a dubious business
model. Weve evolved since 1973
(thankfully), as have you, but the
DNA remains the same: While
other magazines pay lip service
to the idea that subscribers are
number one, our commitment
runs deeper. And nowhere will
you see it displayed better than
in the issue youre holding now.
Throughout 2013, weve cel-
ebrated our 40th anniversary
by celebrating you. Here, youll
find the culmination of a years
worth of our reader-first philoso-
phy. Forget retrospectives about
poorly designed gear and stories
best left in the archives. Weve
literally made the magazine
yours in our Year of the Reader
contests and giveaways. Weve
published your photos and tips,
and given away scores of prod-
ucts and trips. Weve put you in
the field, testing gear (page 57)
and learning new skills (page
46). We enlisted you to name
your top-secret local trails (page
19). We even gave you a shot
at coveted jobs in the outdoor
industry (page 10).
And nothing was more satisfy-
ing than joining you on the trail.
Six readers won all-expenses-
paid dream trips guided by an
editor (page 68). I hiked the Lost
Coast with Chris Martin, whose
lifelong kidney disease and need
for dialysis treatments prevented
him from ever backpacking
before. Our mission is to inspire
people to get outdoors, but it
was Chris who inspired me.
So thanks, Chris, and thanks
Rachael Stanford (who won our
navigation makeover, page 53),
and Krysta Van Patten (photo
contest winner, page 14), and the
100-plus other readers who con-
tributed to this issue. Were glad
to share the wilderness with you.
As it turns out, theres plenty of
room for everyone.
BACKPACKER Turns 40, You Win
Were celebrating our anniversary with an issue for you, by you.
Ascend a 14,000-
foot volcano, score
free gear, and help
kids get outdoors.
When I first caught
sight of it I was 50 miles
away and afoot, alone
and weary. Yet all my
blood turned to wine,
and I have not been
weary since, John Muir
wrote after seeing
Californias Mt. Shasta
in 1874. On a spring
ascent, a storm forced
him to spend the night
on top, staying alive
by warming one side
of his body at a time
above the volcanos
geothermal vents.
Join me on Mt. Shasta
next June, and enjoy the
glory Muir witnessed
without the freeze/
thaw cycle. On our
Summit for Someone
climb, youll tackle one
of North Americas
classic peaks and help
raise money for Big
City Mountaineers, a
nonprofit that mentors
urban teens in the out-
doors. Plus: Participants
will receive gear, climb
with The North Face
athletes Sam Elias and
Cedar Wright, and get
crampon and ice axe
instruction from Shasta
Mountain Guides.
Whats it like? Turn
the page for more on
our 2013 Mt. Whitney
Summit for Someone.
Your part? Commit to
fundraising at least
$4,000 and secure a
spot. Numbers are lim-
ited, so dont wait. Info
backpacker.com/shasta
Climb Shasta
with Me
Your turn What stories would you like to see in 2014? Tell us at backpacker.com/wishlist.
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READERS SHOW INSPIRATION GOES BOTH WAYS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): TENNESSEES TROOP 2163 ON THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL DURING THE GREAT GIRL
SCOUT HIKE, IN WHICH SCOUTS COLLECTIVELY HIKE THE WHOLE AT; KEVIN THOME, ON AUSTRIAS AHORNSPITZE, SAYS, THIS SHOT WAS 100% INSPIRED BY BACK-
PACKER MARCH 2009, ZILLERTAL ALPS; MARTA NYEIN PUSHED HER COMFORT ZONE TO REACH THIS SHENANDOAH PERCH; JEREL FERGUSON, FOUNDER OF HIKE4L-
IFE (CONNECTS URBAN COMMUNITIES WITH THE OUTDOORS), ON THE PONKAPOAG TRAIL, MA; FOR HIS 2012 BACHELOR PARTY, JOHN PERSELL (THIRD FROM LEFT)
HIKED ZION WITH 7 BUDDIES; SEARCH-AND-RESCUE VOLUNTEERS ELSBETH OTTO (LEFT) AND JULIA RUNCIE TAKE A NON-EMERGENCY HIKE IN PIONEER BASIN, CA.
Imagine a magazine that wanted fewer readers. Its hard to fathom in 2013, but that was
BACKPACKERs philosophy in 1973. Four decades ago, when our inaugural issue launched
amid a nationwide boom in outdoor recreation, the founding editors worried that encourag-
ing too many hikers would harm the environment and diminish the wilderness experience.
8 BACKPACKER 01.2014
Last spring, 60 BACKPACKER readers pulled
off the biggest grassroots mountaineering
fundraiser in U.S. history. Climbing with long-
time editor Jonathan Dorn, guides from Sierra
Mountaineering International, and athletes
from The North Face, six reader teams summit-
ted 14,505-foot Mt. Whitney, the highest peak
in the Lower 48. For many, it was their first time
wearing crampons and camping above 12,000
feet. Most impressive: We raised $280,000
for Big City Mountaineers, a nonprofit that
provides wilderness mentoring to urban teens.
Special thanks to DeLorme, LOWA, and Liberty
Bottleworks for their generous support.
Whitney 13:
Readers
Set Record
SUMMIT FOR SOME-
ONE JOIN US ON MT.
SHASTA IN JUNE FOR
ANOTHER READER
ADVENTURE.
BACKPACKER.COM/SHASTA
TEAM ADVENTUR-US ASCENDS GRANITE SLABS
ABOVE CAMP ONE AT LOWER BOY SCOUT LAKE.
LEFT: BACKPACKER'S ANTHONY CERRETANI
ENJOYS A CONTEMPLATIVE SUMMIT MOMENT.
BELOW: SMI GUIDE TRIPPY SIELEMAN MUGS IN
FRONT OF WHITNEY'S DRAMATIC EAST FACE.
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1. Sonja Evans
2. Denise Lanier
YEAR OF
THE READER
1973 2013
Our Whitney climbers came
in all shapes, sizes, and ages,
with diverse careers, home-
towns, and outdoor skill sets.
Here are a few of their stories.
1. Sonja Evans
This ber-positive Idaho
teacher has a personal tie to
the mountain: Her grandfa-
ther helped build the cabins
at the iconic Whitney Portal.
But this trip was her first time
on the peakand atop a 14er.
Surrounded by family back
at the trailhead, the beaming
Evans said, I never thought I
could accomplish something
like this. Now I cant wait for
the next one!
2. Denise Lanier
We hope to see this intrepid
momwho took inspiration
on the climb from a message
her daughter drew on her
helmeton TV soon. Lanier
is currently developing a one-
woman adventure series for
Valley PBS in Fresno.
3. Liane Lau
Recently settled down in
San Francisco after almost
500 days without an address,
this EMT and recovering
accountant is a tireless
adventure advocate. In addi-
tion to her Whitney efforts,
Lau also raised money last
year by biking across America
and competing in an Ironman.
4. James Viggiano
Voted most likely to bonk by
teammates, this wisecracking
electrician from Rochester, NY,
gutted out the endless couloir
ascent to the Notch and the
roped scramble atop the
Mountaineer's Route, dispel-
ling all doubts and becoming
Team Adventur-USs hero.
Choked up in the moments
after he struck this pose,
Viggiano told us this is the
biggest thing Ive ever done.
5. David Heinze
Veteran of numerous Colorado
Fourteeners, this environmen-
tal engineer from Denver rel-
ished the change of scenery
from the Rockies talus slopes
to the High Sierras granite
domes, shark-toothed spires,
and legendary alpenglow.
6. Saveria and Paul Tilden
These experienced climb-
ers from California deserve
another high-five for what
might have been the climbs
most innovative collection
of fundraising postcards and
presentations.
7. Steven Reinhold
Sea-level lungs didnt
stop this easygoing North
Carolinian from joining
40-plus other readers in sign-
ing Whitneys summit register.
(A handful didnt make it to
California due to pregnancy,
illness, or job loss; altitude
stopped a few more.) A top-10
fundraiser, Reinhold was one
of several climbers profiled by
their local TV stations.
8. Eddie Boyer
What does a Texas youth min-
ister with a sweet backpack-
ing tattoo do after bagging
the Lower 48s highest peak?
He meets hiking buddies for
a Grand Canyon backpacking
adventure, of course. Team
Four-Teeners left Whitney
wishing their childhood
preachers had been this cool.
6
7
8
TEAM HEAT SEEKERS INCLUDED READERS
FROM MAINE TO OHIO AND COLORADO TO
CALIFORNIA, WITH A STUDENT, SALESMAN,
GPS DEVELOPER, LAWYER, AND MORE.
3. Liane Lau
5. David Heinze
4. James Viggiano
Who doesnt want to combine their passion and paycheck? We helped six
BACKPACKER readers score prime internships in the outdoor biz.
Dream Jobs
Join our team! Passionate about the outdoors? Were searching for ambassadors for our 2014 Get Out More Tour: backpacker.com/events.
Becca Skinner, 23, Bozeman, MT
BACKPACKER: What was your rst task?
Becca Skinner: I digitized slides and
images from the early catalogs and re-
keyworded the photo archives to make
them easier to use. I worked with some
of the most iconic photos in climbing
historylike shots of Yvon Chouinard
sorting gear in a Yosemite parking lot.
BP: Did you go on any photo shoots?
BS: I assisted staff photographer Tim
Davis on a photo shoot at a wolf sanctu-
ary in California. We hung out with the
wolves and shot them up close. One
even licked my face and touched noses
with me. It was a once-in-a-lifetime
experience.
ADVENTURE PHOTOGRAPHER
Patagonia
Chloe Rossano, 22,
Prescott, AZ
BP: You seriously
got paid to hike?
CR: Ha! It wasnt all
alpenglow, wildflow-
ers, and 360-degree
summit views. I
schlepped some
pretty serious loads
(up to 70 pounds),
fixed packs, patched
tents, scrubbed
muddy boots, cleaned
the office (imagine
the mess made by 25
guides!), and did lots
of food shopping and
packing. But I did get
to assist on guided
climbs on the Grand
Teton and Gannett
and Granite Peaks.
BP: Whats next?
CR: Im signed up for
two guiding courses
and I hope to be an
apprentice guide with
JHMG next summer.
Becky Citarella, 26, Seattle, WA
BP: You were tasked with designing a new sun hat. Howd you get started?
BC: I did a series of two-minute sketchestheyre like brain-
storming sessions for designersaround ideas like venting,
protection, and weight. Sun hats tend to look utilitarian. My
goal was to take the most important functions and create a
more fashion-forward hat.*
BP: What was the best part of the job?
BC: Prototypingguring out how a new design becomes
manufacture-ready.
*OR will launch some of Beckys designs in spring 2015.
GUIDE
GEAR DESIGNER
Jackson
Hole
Mountain
Guides
Outdoor Research
SKINNER GETS ACQUAINTED
WITH THE SUBJECT OF A
PHOTO SHOOT.
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The nonprofit holds summits nationwide
that bring together roughly 200 young
people per city to talk about issues that
prevent them from getting outside and
active. We discuss possible solutions to
these problems and commit to taking
action together. I wish Outdoor Nation
had been around when I was a kid, says
winner Tracie Williams, 30, of Denver, CO.
PUBLIC OUTREACH
Outdoor Nation
ATHLETE COMMUNICATIONS
The North Face
I planned a service event that
The North Face hosted in Jack-
son, Wyoming, in conjunction
with their annual Athlete Sum-
mit [a gathering of sponsored
pros]. I got to meet ultrama-
rathoner Timothy Olsen and
big-wall climber and skier Mark
Synnott, says Lindsey Winger,
30, of Los Angeles. Downside?
Contacting globetrotting ath-
letes meant some late nights.
Josh Mallin, 24,
Boulder, CO

BP: What does an
outdoor PR job
entail?
JM: Theres sexy stuff
like leading press
trips to exotic locales,
but also lots of press
release writing, ship-
ping products, blog-
ging, and tracking
media hits. Despite all
the hard work, theres
plenty of good times,
and most importantly,
theres a shared pas-
sion for the outdoors.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
Verde PR
YEAR OF
THE READER
1973 2013
WINGER (RIGHT) IN WYOMING
WILLIAMS (AT LEFT) MET SECRETARY OF THE
INTERIOR SALLY JEWEL AT THE SEATTLE SUMMIT.
CITARELLA (RIGHT) WITH
ORS MEGHAN MARTENZ
NOW PEOPLE CAN REALLY FOLLOW
IN YOUR FOOTSTEPS.
inReach SE from DeLorme. The next generation of the groundbreaking, award-winning
satellite communicator that both sends and receives text messages to and from any cell
phone number or email address. Give your family and friends the peace of mind knowing
you can be tracked, reached, and rescued anywhere in the world. And with access to our
unlimited, downloadable topographic maps, you can pair inReach SE with your smartphone
or tablet and always know exactly where you are.
Make the outdoors even greater, visit inreachdelorme.com
Compatible with
Smartphones
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Viewfinder
Basecamp
Photos / Trips / Skills / Gear
Learn how to enter our next
photo contest and view a
slideshow of more top reader
photos at backpacker.com/
readerphotos2014.
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
Poring over 500-plus photo submissions would
be grueling work in any other contest. Not this
one. Your striking images prove BACKPACKER
readers explore the backcountrys best places,
and have the skills to bring home amazing pho-
tos. Here are the best of the best.
How do you nail a
standout shot of one
of Americas most
photographed moun-
tains? Part luck, part
skill. Hall, 58, from
Woodbridge, VA, hiked
down a mile-long dirt
road (closed to cars)
to Schwabachers
Landing predawn. The
sun really makes the
mountains pop at first
light, he says. It was
just a bonus that I got
the band of low-lying
clouds. He made the
Grand Teton NP, WY
Gary P. Hall
Your Best Shots
most of the conditions
by narrowing the aper-
ture so everything from
the nearby reflection
to the faraway moun-
tains would be in focus.
Using a tripod, he took
multiple exposures and
perfected the photo
at home by combin-
ing three images in
HDR EFEX Pro 2. This
technique allows the
photo to show what
the human eye can see,
even if it has too much
contrast for a cameras
sensor to capture in
one exposure. Info
Nikon D800, 1/8 to
1/30 second at f/22
01.2014 BACKPACKER 13 01.2014 BACKPACKER 13
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Butte Creek Forest, OR
Krysta Van Patten
Great Sand Dunes National Park, CO
Skylar McCullough
No signs point to 92-foot-tall Abiqua Falls, which
makes for less crowded viewing for those in the
know. Van Patten, 27, of Portland, OR, was follow-
ing her husband along the .4-mile trail to the falls,
when, I turned the corner to find him standing in
front of this dominating waterfall and shot this
photo. Van Patten used a relatively open aper-
ture to blur the foreground, create a natural frame
around the falls, and utterly nail the composition.
Info Nikon D3000, 1/60 second at f/5.6
No year-round rivers run through this sprawling
dunefield in southern Colorado. But McCullough,
22, from Odenton, MD, found another kind of
stream while hiking cross-country, about a mile
past the summit of High Dune, in August. My
father and I were both amazed by the near-perfect
row of prairie flowers in the middle of 30 square
miles of sand, she says. In other places wed seen
flowers, they were in random clumps. The orderli-
ness of this row was something I just had to cap-
ture. How else would anyone believe it? Info Sony
DSC-HX9V, 1/320 second at f/9
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
GRAND
PRIZE!
Krysta Van Patten
wins a
Tamron 18-270mm
All-In-One 15X
Zoom Lens
Wind River Range, WY
Aaron Kraft
Yosemite National Park, CA
Kat Carney
An annual trip to the Winds offered the perfect
blend of sunlight-punctured clouds, rock-dotted
tundra, and long, toothy ridges for Kraft, 32, of
Jackson Hole, WY. Kraft did the Winds right, travel-
ing a four-day, 50-mile on-trail/off-trail highlight
trip starting on the Pole Creek Trail from the Elkhart
Park trailhead (15 miles northeast of Pinedale) and
returning on the Highline Trail. He shot this stun-
ner on his final day, near Upper Jean Lake, while a
moody sky hung over the Titcomb Needles (left)
and 12,814-foot Peak G-17 (center). I had to rely
on a graduated neutral density filter to darken the
clouds and balance the exposure, he says. Info
Canon EOS 5D Mark II, 1/125 second at f/8
Carney, 26, of San Diego and her boyfriend had been fending off mosquitoes on their four-day
trip in early July, which started in Inyo National Forest (from Saddlebag Lake), then alternated
between Hoover Wilderness and Yosemite. A full moon foiled any plans I had to take star shots,
she says. So while swatting mosquitoes, I set up this shot as my boyfriend got into his sleeping
bag. I wanted the moon at my back to light up the background. His headlamp lit up the tarp. The
combination of moonlight, lamp light, and lack of breeze (no fluttering trees or tent) allowed for
a long shutter speed, enabling Carney to use a relatively low ISO and keep the dark photo from
becoming too noisy. Admire the photo and Carneys dedication to capturing it: The duo forsook
a proper tent to save weightso they had no bug netbut Carney still packed the DSLR and a
small tripod. Info Canon EOS Rebel T2i, 25 seconds at f/2.8
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Viewfinder
Basecamp
Glacier National Park, MT
Chris Carille
Yosemite National Park, CA
Apurva Gupta
Indian Peaks Wilderness, CO
Jessica Kiser
No, Carille, 29, of Poughkeepsie, NY, didnt use a
bear bell or a handful of trail mix to get this hoary
mountain goat to look his way. I had taken several
photos, he says, but it all came together perfectly
when the goat started moving away. It paused
to take one last, quick look at me before heading
over the edge. It was the standout moment on a
75-mile, five-day backpacking tour around Glacier
in July 2010. He captured this image 9 miles up the
Gunsight Pass Trail with the namesake lake backed
by 8,750-foot Fusillade Mountain. Info Nikon D700,
1/1250 second at f/5.6
Its hard to resist the urge to jump into Nevada
Fall, the halfway point of the 8-mile hike to Half
Dome (via the Mist Trail). Gupta, 28, of Burbank,
CA, framed this shot after the heat of the day
prompted his hiking partners to take the plunge:
It made sense to be in the water, but it was my
roommates idea to do so in style. While the others
were disrobing, Gupta readied his gear. I kept the
camera on continuous shooting mode and this was
the third pic in the series, he says. Info Canon EOS
Digital Rebel XTi, 1/160 second at f/7.1
With the morning sun illuminating the Lake Isabelle
Trail in Roosevelt National Forest, Kiser, 22, of
Manassas, VA, wanted to frame a photo that did
more than recall a placeshe wanted to capture
its feeling. I was sure to have the sun peeking
through the tall trees, she says, making the viewer
almost be able to feel the warmth of it in the brisk
morning air. Mission accomplished. Shooting into
the sunlight, while exposing for shadowed areas,
gives the effect of sunlight pouring in. Info Nikon
D80, 1/20 second at f/4
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
KEEN REVEL II
Find yourself going out because you want to, not because
you have to. All thanks to the warmth of our most technical
winter bootfeaturing KEENs Heat Trapolator system.
SIZE EM UP AT KEENFOOTWEAR.COM OR YOUR LOCAL RETAILER
Stay One Step Ahead of Mother Nature
SLEEKER. SLIMMER. FASTER.

PROTRE

_ . .
01.2014 BACKPACKER 19 01.2014 BACKPACKER 19
Basecamp / January 2014
Your
Favorite
Hikes
No one knows trails like you do. Our crew of 38 reader-panelists have trekked 17,129 total miles
and spent 1,025 total nights in the backcountry this past year to provide you with their best rec-
comendations, from Alaska to Florida.
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
STOPS SHORTER ON ICE THAN THE LEADING COMPETITOR.
*
ULTRA GRIP
ICE EEEE WR WR WR WRT. PROVE EEEENNNGR GRIP P INNIC II Y AND SNOWY CONDIT TTIO IO IONS.
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Top 3
West
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Reader panel stats 3,853 annual miles hiked, 226 backcountry nights
1
Mt. Rainer NP, WA
Tolmie Peak
Lookout
Journey into the
Cascades and peer
across a translucent
alpine lake to Mt.
Rainer on this 3.7-mile
(one-way) dayhike.
From the Tolmie Peak
trailhead, undulate
through hemlock and
fir, veering southeast
to Eunice Lake (mile
2.6). Framed with
orange tiger lilies,
crimson columbine,
and purple alpine
asters, Eunice sits
below 5,940-foot
Tolmie Peak. Jagged
mountains towering
above wildflowers
and a crystal blue lake
make this seriously
postcard-worthy, says
Steve Brown. Keep an
eye out for mountain
goats picking their way
along the ridges, and
in late summerfind
huckleberries ripe for
picking. From Eunice,
follow the path a mile
to the Tolmie lookout
tower. Climb to the top
for a panorama includ-
ing snowcapped Mts.
Rainier and Adams.
TRAILHEAD 46.932941,
-121.864098*; 49 miles
southeast of Tacoma off
Mowich Lake Rd. INFO
(360) 569-2211; nps.gov/
mora
2
Willamette NF, OR
South Sister
Bag the highest peak
in the Three Sisters
Wildernessand
sweeping views of the
Cascade Volcanic Arc
on this 5.5-mile, quad-
burning dayhike that
gains 5,000 feet. Its
great for anyone whos
never climbed a moun-
tain because its non-
technical and you can
do it in a day, says Julia
Troutt. Take off on the
South Sister Climbing
Trail, ascending 700
feet in 1.5 miles through
lush fir forests to your
first vistas: 10,358-foot
South Sister and 9,177-
foot Broken Top. Push
on 2.9 miles through
red dogbane to a sad-
dle overlooking .2-mile-
long Lewis Glacier
and an emerald lake.
From here, continue
.7 mile to the summit.
Soak in 360-degree
views of aptly named
Teardrop Pool (the
states highest lake at
nearly 10,300 feet), Mt.
McLoughlin, Mt. Hood,
and the Sister trio.
-121.771004; 27 miles west
of Bend off the Cascade
Lakes Scenic Byway INFO
(541) 225-6300; fs.usda.
gov/willamette
3
Trinity Alps
Wilderness, CA
Sawtooth
Mountain
Stand atop Sawtooth
Mountain and see
Mt. Shasta poking
above the splintered
granite spires of the
Alps. From the Canyon
Creek Lake trailhead,
an 8-mile approach
lands you at 25-acre
Upper Canyon Creek
Lake, nestled like a
jewel below 8,898-
foot Sawtooth.
Expect company, but
set up camp back
from the secluded
northwest shore
atop a meadow and
beside the 20-foot
waterfall. From there,
its a .5-mile, 840-
foot climb northeast
through a boulder field
to L Lake at 6,560
feet. Continue south,
cruising through an
alpine meadow (look
for black bears) and
scrambling over scree.
In a mile (after gaining
2,280 feet on class 3
and 4 terrain), reach
the Sawtooth pinnacle
from where you can
see eight lakes strung
together like a beaded
sapphire necklace. Use
caution on the down-
climb, Leon Nelson
says. You may want
to head toward Morris
Lake, then swing east
to L for surer footing.
-123.024107; 65 miles
northwest of Redding off
Canyon Creek Rd. INFO
(530) 226-2500; bit.ly/
TrinityAlpsWild
Picture-Perfect Hikes
Pack your wide lens to capture calendar-worthy views in Washington, Oregon, and California.
1
SHOWSTOPPER: MT. RAINIER
LOOMS LARGE FROM THE
TOLMIE PEAK LOOKOUT.
Steve Brown, 40,
Seattle, WA
Julia Troutt, 26,
Portland, OR
*Plug these lat/long coordinates into Google Maps for turn-by-turn driving directions.
West
Rip & Go
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
xxxxx xxxxxx Day 1 Your favorite West hiking season Fall (41%), summer (37%), spring (19%), winter (4%)
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Day 1
Reed Lakes
Alaska: Hatcher Pass Wilderness Area
Encircled by towering granite peaks and surrounded by mattress-like alpine tundra just over an hour out-
side Anchorage, the Reed Creek drainage serves up the best the biggest state has to offer: larger-than-life
scenery and grab-your-camera wildlife. And this easy-access, 4.1-mile approach will give you the ultimate alpine
experience without any alpine danger, says Erik Halfacre. Take this 8.2-mile out-and-back through Hatcher Pass
starting from the Reed Lakes trailhead (1). Hoof it along an old mining road and keep your eyes peeled for golden
flecks along the banks of Reed Creekyou never know, you might get lucky. Continue east beneath the shadows
of the snow-capped, jagged peaks of the Talkeetna Range rising 2,500 feet in all directions. Blaze up 1,000 feet
on a mile-long series of switchbacks to a goat path. Take the .2-mile detour west to a nameless alpine lake (2)
(Alaskas lakes are too plentiful to all get names), tinted bright turquoise from glacial runoff. See a mile down
the valley, laden in purple lupine (blooming July), to the site of the abandoned Snowbird Mine village. If youre
feeling gutsy, Halfacre recommends taking a quick dip in the icy waters before cruising into a field of car-size
boulders (3). Do the rock hop northeast along a faint trail for the next mile while watching for ptarmigan, the
state bird, hunting for insects in the tundra and white Dall sheep balancing on the cliffs. In the fall, look for brown
bears foraging among the blueberry patches. At mile 3.1, reach the shores of teal Lower Reed Lake (4)nestled
in tundra at 3,800 feet and reflecting the surrounding green slopes in kaleidoscope fashionbefore knocking off
the remaining mile to Upper Reed Lake (5), where 6,366-foot Lynx Peak reflects in its mirror-like waters. Halfacre
recommends camping 200 yards from the shore beside the 100-foot-tall, multi-tiered waterfall, with views
down to the Reed Valley. Get an early start next morning to catch an Alaskan sunrise: Golden skies framed by
mineral-filled peaks mirrored on the glacial waters of the lake. Retrace your steps to the trailhead.
TRAILHEAD
61.803878,
-149.202919; 59
miles northeast
of Anchorage off
Archangel Rd.
GEAR UP Alaska
Mountaineering and
Hiking, 2633 Spenard
Rd., Anchorage; (907)
272-1811; alaska-
mountaineering.com
SEASON Summer
PERMITS None
CONTACT Alaska
DNR; (907) 269-
8400 TRIP DATA*
bit.ly/Reed
Follow the footsteps of old miners to three alpine lakes beneath the snow-capped Talkeetna Mountains.
0.0 mi
1
2.3
2
2.6
3
3.1
4
4.1
5
Erik Halfacre, 27,
Anchorage, AK
VALLEY OF THE ROCKS: NAVI-
GATE THROUGH A BOULDER
FIELD IN THE REED VALLEY.
*View a map and a more detailed trip description by visiting this URL.
WHO IS YOUR IDEAL HIKING PARTNER? GANDALF JOHN MUIR THE STAY
PUFT MARSHMALLOW MAN SCARLETT JOHANSSEN
ACCORDI NG
TO YOU

Brandon, '.
27 Big Bear
Lake, CA
__
Michael Cobb, 64,
Sequim, WA
Trail Mix
We
st
Deer Park to
Obstruction
Point, Olympic
NP,WA
Traverse the
7.-mile ridge
between these
two points and
you'll be rewarded
with 180-degree
views of the
steep-sided,
7,000-foot-plus
Olympics to the
south and top-of
the-world views
of Port Angeles,
Sequim, Victoria,
and Oak Harbor
to the north. Do
it with a head
lamp at night or
under a full moon,
Michael Cobb
recommends,
and see the eerie
silhouette of the
Olympics set
against the stars.
Contact (360)
565-3130; nps
.gov/olym
EASY-ACCES ALPINE
LAKE
Bingham
Lake, Russian
Wilderness, CA
Sunbathe on the
smooth, weath
ered granite
shores of crystal
clear Bingham
Lake in a cirque
below 8,181-foot
Russian Peak.
Access the spot
.8 mile deep
in the Russian
Wilderness via
the Bingham
Lake Trail.
Contact (530)
842-6131; biUyl
RussianWild
ALPINE VIEWS
Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail, John Muir Wilderness, CA
Pass five alpine lakes on this 7.-mile (one-way), high-country out-and-back to Sixth Lake. From the North Fork
Pine Creek trailhead, trek 3.4 miles west along a sagebrush-carpeted canyon. Enter a pine forest and revel in the
heights of 12,999-foot Temple Crag (which offers 5.7 to 5.10 trad climbing). Pass First, Second, Third, Fourth, and
Fifth Lakes-made green by the runoff of glacial silt-and walk another mile to Sixth Lake at 11,090 feet. See the
13,000-foot granite peaks of the Inconsolable Range and Fourteeners Mt. Sill and North Palisade reflected on its
leprechaun waters (cast a line for rainbow trout). Pitch your tent below the cliffs on the western shore and awake
early to catch the sunrise alpenglow reflecting off the glassy waters. Contact 760 873-2400; biUy/JohnMuirWild
f BACKCOUNTRY SWIMMING
i Oneonta Gorge, Columbia River
Gorge National Scenic Area, OR
"You can't do this 1.5-mile out-and-back without good
sandals, goat-like balance for rock-hopping, and get
ting wet to your waist," Julia Troutt says. Scramble
over logs and walk . mile through the narrow, moss
covered, 200-foot-tall Oneonta Gorge, and take a dip
in the pool below 120-foot-tall Lower Oneonta Falls
for the some of the best backcountry swimming in the
West. Contact (541) 308-1700; fs.usda.gov/crgnsa
n BEST CAMPSITE
Cascade Pass to Sahale Arm,
North Cascades NP, WA
Take this ll-mile out-and-back to overlook the rug
ged Cascades and Doubtful Lake, a deep-blue
secret fed by six cascading mountain streams. Perch
for the night on the edge of 8,000-foot Sahale Arm,
camping at the toe of Sahale Glacier to the north,
and taking in the morning's sunrise above the snow
swept slopes of 8,816-foot Forbidden Peak and
fields of blue alpine forget-me-nots (blooming early
summer). Contact (360) 854-7200; nps.gov/noca
INSTA
WINNER
Tag your hiking pies
#BPmag and follow
@baekpaekermag.
Collin Cates, 28, of
Los Angeles, snapped
this image of his pals
soaking in the Iva Bell
Hot Springs off the
Fish Creek Trail.
Post-hike pub pick Iron Door Saloon i Groveland, CA (Iron-door-saloon com)
xxxxx xxxxxx
Top 3
Mountain West
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San Juan NF, CO
Ice Lake Basin
If youre a peakbagger
(or a sucker for wild-
flowers), then this basin
in the San Juans is your
primo destination, says
Ben Frihauf. Just a 3.5-
mile approach lands
you at turquoise Upper
Ice Lake, a 1.3-acre
tarn nestled in a cirque
below a half-dozen
Thirteeners. From the
Ice Lakes trailhead,
wind 2 miles west
through columbine-
laden meadows to the
lower basin. Snowmelt-
fed streams drain into
the pool, while a sea of
larkspur, alpine daisies,
and blue bells (bloom-
ing in July) line the trail.
From here, climb 800
feet in a mile to Indian
paintbrush-edged
Upper Ice Lake. It
looks like a Caribbean
beachfront, except its
surrounded by the most
impressive peaks, says
Randy Van Winkle.
Camp near the south-
east shore with western
views of the San Juans,
and take daytrips to
explore Ulysses S. Grant
Peak or Island and
Fuller Lakes.
-107.773474*; 58 miles north
of Durango off CR 12 INFO
(970) 247-4874; fs.usda.
gov/sanjuan
2
Jedediah Smith
Wilderness, ID/WY
Mirror Lake
Big wildlife. Big views.
Big trip. This 23-mile,
two-night shuttle hike
proves bigger is better.
From the South Teton
trailhead in Idaho,
hike over 9,720-foot
Mt. Meek Pass via the
lung-busting Devils
Stairs, then into the
Alaska Basin via the
Sheep Steps (see
the far-off, toothy
Cathedrals) on the
Alaska Basin Trail.
Pitch your tent on
the marble-like gran-
iteunlike elsewhere
in the Tetonsoff
the southern shore of
Mirror Lake (mile 8)
with vistas to Buck
Mountain, Static Peak,
Mt. Meek, and the
Wedge, which tower
2,000 feet above. Day
two, continue north
on the Teton Crest
Trail to 10,400-foot
Hurricane Pass, where
youll score the best
view of the Tetons and
Schoolroom Glacier.
Look for pink, algae-
tinted watermelon
snow on the pass,
says Chuck Wolfe,
but dont taste it!
Continue into Grand
Teton National Park,
cruising to Holly Lake
(mile 18) to camp
below orange gneiss
walls. From here,
hike 5 miles out of
Paintbrush Canyon
(look for moose and
black bears) to the
String Lake trailhead.
-110.915351; 44 miles north
of Jackson off Teton Canyon
Rd. INFO (208) 354-2312;
bit.ly/JedSmithWild
3
Lee Metcalf
Wilderness, MT
Spanish Lakes
Its a lake-lovers
paradise: Set up camp
beside these cerulean,
trout-rich pools, and
explore a half-dozen
others from your water-
front property on this
16-mile out-and-back.
On Trail #407, walk
4 easy miles through
cream-colored bear
grass and crimson
Indian paintbrush
(blooms peak late in
summer), looking out
for grizzlies feasting on
cow parsnip. Turn west
onto Trail #411 and
continue 4 miles to the
rocky banks of Lower
Spanish Lake. Pitch
a tent off the eastern
shore, angled west to
catch the sunrise turn-
ing the jagged cirque
hot pink, says Amanda
Cram. Keep an eye out
for mountain goats on
slabs above and eagles
and hawks fishing in
the lake.
-111.417000; 29 miles south-
west of Bozeman off Jack
Creek Rd. INFO (406) 683-
8020; bit.ly/LeeMetWild
Alpine Lakes
Kick back at one of these campsiteswhere nothing but an idyllic, high-country pool separates you from the Rockies skyline.
1
TALL COLD ONE: UPPER
ICE LAKE SITS ABOVE
12,200 FEET.
Ben Frihauf,
43, Durango,
CO
Amanda
Cram, 31,
Three Forks,
MT
FR BEGINNERS
Marsh Creek,
Salmon
Chal l i s NF, 10
With just a 5-mile
approach that
loses 600 feet
in elevation as
it winds along a
creekbed-home
to deer and
elk-en route to a
perfectly flat and
wind-protected
campsite, this hike
will please novices
and families alike.
From the Marsh
Creek trailhead,
reach the Big Hole
campground at
the mouth of the
Salmon River's
Middle Fork at
mile 5; retrace
your steps on the
return. Contact
(208) 756-5100;
fs.usda.gov/scnf
VIEWINADAY
Pawnee Pass,
Indian Peaks
Wilderness, CO
Wander through
a sea of late
summer wildflow
ers-magenta
elephant's head,
lavender colum
bine, and yellow
globeflower, marsh
marigold, and old
man of the moun
tain-and pass two
alpine lakes to killer
views of Pawnee,
Little Pawnee, and
Shoshoni Peaks
from this 12,541-
foot pass. Take off
from the Long Lake
trailhead and com
plete this 8-mile
out-and-back in a
day. Contact (970)
295-6600; bitlyl
InPeWild
Randy Van
Winkle, 39, Fort
Collins,CO
Trail Mix
Mountain West
I NATONAL PARK DAYHIKE
Lake of the Crags,
Grand Teton NP, WY
Follow an old climbers' trail (unmapped! no people!)
into Hanging Canyon-gaining 2,700 feet-to Lake of the
Crags, an alpine pool at the base of seven 10,000-plus
footers on this 8-mile dayhike (round-trip). From
the Jenny Lake trailhead, head up signed Hanging
Canyon to take a dip in the glacier-fed lake amid the
jagged amphitheater with eastern views across the
Teton Valley. Contact (307) 739-3399; nps.gov/grte
BEST CMPSITE
Colony Lakes,
Sangre
de Cristo
Wilderness, CO
Set up a basecamp
at the foot of four
Fourteeners-just
4 miles deep in the
wilderness. From
the upper South
Colony Lakes trail
head, follow the
creek to granite
framed Lower
South Colony Lake
(look for marmots,
bighorn sheep,
and pikas). Camp
amid pines off
the southeastern
shore and catch
sunrise off 14,197-
foot Crestone
Needle's pin tip to
the west. Next day,
explore Crestone
Needle and Peak,
Kit Carson, or
Humboldt Peak.
Contact (719)
269-8500; bitlyl
SdCWild
m OFF-TRAIL ADVENTURE
l Hollowtop Mountain,
8eaverhead-Oeerlodge NF, MT
Earn never-ending views of the jagged Tobacco Roots
Range, the deep Gallatin Valley, and the lush Cataract
Creek drainage spotted with year-round snowfields
from the high point of this volcano. Skirt around the
marshy western shore of granite-bordered Upper
Mason Lake and head up into the white-bark pine
trees-home to moose, black and grizzly bears, elk,
and elusive gray wolves. Continue past treeline into an
area of mixed grass and talus, topping out in 4 miles
(2,500 vertical feet) at Hollowtop's 10,609-foot sum
mit. Contact (406) 683-3900; fs.usda.gov/bdnf
INSTA
WINNER
Tag your pics #BPmag.
Wendy Swart, 37, of
Boulder, CO, snapped
this image of the iconic
Maroon Bells dusted
with snow upon com
pleting the Four Pass
Loop in October.
Post-hike pub pick Roadhouse Brewmg Company i Jackson, W (roadhousebrewery com)
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Top 3
Southwest
READERS
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Grand Staircase-
Escalante NM, UT
Peek-a-Boo and
Spooky Gulches
Blinding desert sunlight
dims to an ethereal
twilight between the
undulating sandstone
walls of southern Utah
slot canyons. This pair
of gulches gives begin-
ners a taste of canyo-
neerings allurewith
no ropes or technical
chops required. Follow
the 3.5-mile loop
clockwise from the Dry
Fork Road trailhead
to tackle Peek-a-Boo
Gulch, where youll
scramble through red-
orange rock keyholes
narrowing to 2 feet
wide. Then, link to the
second half of the loop
by hiking .5 mile east to
squeeze into Spooky
Gulch, a .3-mile long,
50-foot-deep, shaded
crevice where the only
way through is side-
ways. Spooky is so
narrow that at every
turn, you cant see the
person whos right in
front of you, Dawn
Griffith says.
-111.216111*; 153 miles
east of Cedar City off Hole
in the Rock Rd. INFO (435)
644-1200; ut.blm.gov/
monument
2
Grand Canyon NP, AZ
Grandview Trail
See the mind-bending
grandeur of the grand-
daddy of all canyons
from below the rim
without the hordes
of people and mules
youd encounter on
the parks main cor-
ridor trails. Bright
Angel is like a paved
highway compared
to Grandview, which
is rockier and has far
fewer people, Chuck
Bame says. Kick off
this 6-mile out-and-
back from the South
Rims Grandview Point,
descending 1,200
feet in 1.1 miles to
Coconino Saddle; the
trail becomes steeper
and rockier from here.
Descend 1.9 more
miles to Horseshoe
Mesa, a 4,900-foot
mid-canyon plateau.
Savor 360-degree
inner canyon views
that include the spire
of 7,533-foot Vishnu
Temple from the
scrubby mesa, which
is dotted with stone
remnants and tools
from its 19th-century
copper mining past.
Retrace your steps
back to the trailhead,
or camp in a desig-
nated spot atop the
mesa.
-111.987788; 87 miles north
of Flagstaff off E. Rim Dr.
INFO (928) 638-7888; nps
.gov/grca
3
Red Rock Canyon
NCA, NV
Gateway Canyon
Interspersed lay-
ers of red and white
sandstonedepos-
ited 180 million years
ago when giant sand
dunes blanketed the
regionmake this
Vegas-area canyon
feel straight out of
Candyland. Car-size
boulders clog the
gravelly wash, and
rust-colored concre-
tions (marble-size
spheres of iron-rich
stone) polka dot
the 200-foot can-
yon walls. See these
whimsical patterns
(most colorful shortly
after daybreak, when
sunlight casts the
scene in a rosy glow)
on this quiet, 3.5-mile
loop from the trail-
head off Sandstone
Road. Its a lesser-
known hike because
its outside the main
scenic drive where
all the tourists go,
Chelise Simmons
says. Most of the
time, youll have it
to yourself. Scale
the crag at mile 1 to
glimpse the steeply
pitched limestone
summit of 6,323-
foot Turtlehead Peak
before tracing the
mile-long canyon bot-
tom, home to gray,
palm-size rock wrens.
TRAILHEAD 36.16246,
-115.45033; 25 miles west of
Las Vegas off Scenic Loop
Dr. INFO (702) 515-5350;
bit.ly/RedRockCanyon
Canyon Hikes
Sample the Southwests most distinctive sceneryfrom intricate
to immenseon these reader favorites.
QUICK FIX: SPOOKY GULCH NAR-
ROWS TO A FEW FEET WIDE JUST
300 FEET BEYOND ITS ENTRANCE.
Dawn Grifth, 44,
Holladay, UT
1
xxxxx xxxxxx Day 1 Day 2 Your favorite Southwest hiking season Fall (86%), spring (14%)
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Day 1 Day 2
Southwest
Rip & Go
West Rim Trail
Utah: Zion National Park
Experience this popular canyon all to yourself on this 14.5-mile point-to-point leading from a remote plateau
3,500 feet above the Virgin River to neck-craning views in the heart of the national park. Pack in a gallon of
water per person, and depart from the West Rim trailhead (1) near 7,890-foot Lava Point (shuttle info at right).
Hike 3 miles south through pines to a teaser glimpse of white-crowned, 7,140-foot South Guardian Angel, which
emerges to the west. Watch for mule deer as you cross an aspen-dotted meadow en route to a 1.5-mile, gradual
ascent to a junction (2) at mile 6.7. Keep right to embark on two of the most scenic miles in the entire Southwest,
Chelise Simmons says. Youll trace the western edge of scrubby, spring-wildflower-strewn Horse Pasture Plateau
for a continuous panorama of tree-topped mesas giving way to a maze of 1,000-foot, sand-colored monoliths
and sheer, blood-red cliffs. Youll want to sit down and stay there for hours, Simmons says. The views just get
better and better. Make camp (3) at mile 8.9 among the pines at site #3 (dry) for a rimside view of white-walled,
7,060-foot Castle Dome beyond your tent door. Next morning, drop 600 feet in .9 mile to replenish all water for
day two at Cabin Springs (4) at mile 9.8 (another gallon per person). Switchback below the rim into a cloistered
side canyon (5) (aka Little Siberia), which can hold snow through spring, to a steep, .5-mile ascent where the
sandy trail transitions to slickrock. Soak in views of The Great White Thrones 2,000-foot walls and the snaking
curve of the Big Bend of the Virgin River (6) at mile 12.2. From rocky Scout Lookout (7) (mile 12.6), detour .5 mile
along a knife-edge spine (hold a provided safety chain) to 5,790-foot Angels Landing for a panorama of the inner
canyon. Retrace your steps to descend Walters Wigglesa series of 21 brick and cement switchbacksand enter
the cool, shaded slot of Refrigerator Canyon. Traverse down a final set of switchbacks to reach the riverbank and
The Grotto trailhead (8). Take the free Zion shuttle bus (March to November) back to your car.
-112.950751; 48 miles
east of St. George off
Zion Canyon Scenic Dr.
SHUTTLE $39/person;
zionadventures.com
(off Lion Blvd.) GEAR
UP Zion Outdoor,
868 Zion Park Blvd.,
Springdale, UT; (435)
772-0630; zionoutdoor
.com SEASON Late
spring for wildflowers,
fall for golden cotton-
woods riverside; avoid
summers heat and
scarce water. PERMITS
$10/group CONTACT
(435) 772-3256; nps
.gov/zion TRIP DATA*
bit.ly/0114Zion
0.0 mi
1
6.7
2
8.9
3
9.8
4
10.5
5
12.2
6
12.6
7
14.5
8
Chelise Simmons,
39, Las Vegas, NV
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
HARD TIME: ZION CANYONS
SANDSTONE IS 150 MILLION
YEARS OLD.
*View a map and a more detailed trip description by visiting this URL.
WHAT WILDLIFE HAVE YOU RUN AWAY FROM? HORNETS SKUNK COW
TURKEY
ACCORDI NG
TO YOU

Score a unique perspective of half-mile-deep Zion Canyon on this big-view shuttle hike.
BEST CAMPSITE
Horseshoe
Lake,Pecos
Wilderness, NM
This 11,750-foot
perch in the
Sangre de Cristos
showcases tarns
and tundra to rival
the rest of the
Rockies. Camp
among the pines
on the lake's east
ern edge, and look
for elk wading in
its glassy waters
in the morning. A
12,200-foot ridge
line painted pale
purple with alpine
rock jasmine rises
above. Get there
via an 11.4-mile
out-and-back
from the Serpent
Lake trailhead,
the last 2.7 miles
of which venture
off-trail-meaning
this alpine para
dise should be
all yours. Contact
(505) 757-6121;
biUy/PecosWild
Trip data biUy
10l14Pecos
BEST SWIMMING
HOLE
F ossil Spr ings,
Coconino NF,A
Bask in a trans
lucent, 72F
spring gushing at
20,000 gallons
a minute on this
7-mile dayhike
from the Fossil
Springs trailhead
to a riparian oasis
among Arizona's
arid mesas. Tip:
The upper swim
ming hole tends to
be less crowded.
Contact (928) 477-
2255; fs.usda.govl
coconino
Brian Holcomb, 26,
Farmington, NM
Trail Mix Sou
t
hwes
t
INSTA WINNER
Tag your best wilderness pics #BPmag and follow
@backpackermag.
Steve Strehl, 20, of Missoula, MT, captured this image of
Havasupai Falls on a hike into the Grand Canyon. "I woke up
at 4 a.m. to do the 10 miles without getting caught in the July
heat," he says. "The best part about this hike is when you're
trudging through the desert and you start to hear running
water-you turn a corner and the 100-foot falls appear out of
nowhere, plunging into a blue-green pool."
n BEST BADLANDS HIKE
Oe-Na-Zin Wash, Bisti/Oe-Na-Zin
Wilderness, NM
No designated trails cross this eerie wasteland of
pale hoodoos and mushroom-capped shale hills.
The spooky terrain was hardened from swampland
that covered the area 65 million years ago. Follow
this 3.9-mile lollipop route from the trailhead off
CR 7500 through washes littered in shards of pet
rified wood and lichen-covered pine trees fossilized
intact. Tip: Check the lunar calendar first. "On a full
moon, the light reflects off the rocks and you can
see almost as far as you can during the day," says
Brian Holcomb. Contact (505) 599-8900; biUyl
De-Na-Zin Trip data biUy/0l14De-Na-Zin
BEST ARCH
Corona Arch,
MoabBLM,UT
Like a giant red
wave curling in
the desert, this
sandstone arch
boasts a 140-
foot by 105-foot
opening, nearly
double that of
better-known
Delicate Arch.
Hike to the base
of it and nearby
porthole-shaped
Bowtie Arch on
this easy, 3-mile
out-and-back
up Bootlegger
Canyon from the
Corona Arch trail
head just west
of Moab on UT
279. Contact (435)
259-2100; biUyl
MoabBLM
m
: BEsTVIEW
Comanche
Point, Grand
Canyon NP, AZ
The Colorado River
turns sharply a
mile beneath this
7,073-foot South
Rim promontory,
yielding a bird's
eye perspective
of the web-like
chasm. Reach i t
via an unmarked,
12-mile out-and
back from Desert
View. Follow dirt
Cape Solitude
Road north 4 miles
to a fork; keep
west and follow a
trail through the
drainage 2 miles to
a saddle 600 feet
below the point.
Climb over shrubs
to its summit.
Contact (928) 638-
7888; nps.gov/grca
Post-hike pub pick The Grand Canyon Brewmg Company m Wias, AZ (grandcanyonrewery com)
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Two hands are better than one, so use your head and
get the H15S Wave rechargeable headlamp. With 250
lumens of white light, three output modes, and 36
hours of useful runtime, its the perfect choice for
any challenge you face in the outdoors. For the
ultimate hands-free experience, switch to the infrared
hands-free mode. Simply swipe your hand in front of the
headlamp to turn it off and on. So whether youre
building a fire, setting up camp, or administering
first aid, be prepared with the versatile H15S Wave.
Dominate your night environment.
www.olightworld.com/H15S
YOUVE GOT TWO HANDS.
NOW USE THEM.
Top 3
Midwest
READERS
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Hawn State Park, MO
Pickle Creek to
Whispering Pines
As the flowing creeks
here cut into the sand-
stone bedrock, they
created overhanging
bluffs, boulder gardens,
and wild outcrops. Take
a two-day tour on this
10.3-mile loop from the
Pickle Creek trailhead.
Hike north, tracing the
curving rivulet as it
slides down sandstone
slabs and funnels into
boulder-choked sec-
tions of stream. Merge
onto the North Loop of
Whispering Pines Trail
at .7 mile, passing tiered
granite ledges. After 2
miles, climb the bluffs
to a ridge and follow
it to the South Loop
and stay at Camp 2 in
a wooded glen. Explore
the southern half the
next day. This is my
favorite section, says
Luke Larson. The trail
leads to a promontory
surrounded on three
sides by sandstone
bluffs and the River Aux
Vases. Reconnect with
the North Loop to com-
plete the route.
-90.230266*; 70 miles south
of St. Louis on Park Dr. INFO
(573) 883-3603; bit.ly/
HawnStPa
2
Enchanted Rock State
Natural Area, TX
Outer Loop to
Summit Trail
It took millions of years
for the magma trapped
below the Earths
surface to coalesce
into this massive pink
granite dome spanning
640 acres and tower-
ing 425 feet above the
ground. See it in a day
on this 6-mile loop.
The best months to
visit are September
and October when
the crowds dwindle,
says Peter Fecht. Start
on the Loop Trail and
circumnavigate 1,740-
foot, double-humped
Little Rock. Roughly 3
miles in, turn right at
Freshman Mountain,
skirting the northern
edge of Enchanted
Rock. Link up with Echo
Canyon Trail less than
a mile later, heading
south through scrub
oak and cactus. Merge
onto the Summit Trail
for the final .4 mile
to Enchanted Rocks
1,825-foot high point.
-98.824768; 97 miles north-
west of Austin off N. Milam
St. INFO (830) 685-3636;
bit.ly/EnchRck
3
Starved Rock State
Park, IL
Ottawa,
Kaskaskia, and
Illinois Canyons
As melting glaciers
retreated from this
region thousands of
years ago, they left
behind massive lakes
that continually over-
flowed, scouring the
exposed rocks into
a hikers paradise of
sandstone bluffs and
canyons. Starved
Rock is one of those
places thats not too
far from city life but
still gives you that
wilderness feel, says
Brian Thompson. Hike
this 3.9-mile out-
and-back in March
or April to see the
waterfalls in three of
the parks 18 canyons.
From the lot at the
east end of the park,
descend north toward
the Illinois River and
turn right at .3 mile.
Less than half a mile
later, head right at
the mouth of the
first canyon and pass
Council Overhang, a
towering rock amphi-
theater. Next, tour
inside neighboring
Ottawa and Kaskaskia
Canyons to see water-
falls trickling over
30-foot, moss-draped
cliffs. Backtrack and
turn right for the
.8-mile round-trip into
Illinois Canyon (after
heavy rain, youll see
up to six waterfalls
along this stretch).
Finish at Hennepin
Canyon Overlook for
views over the Illinois.
-88.952136; 90 miles
southwest of Chicago on
IL 71 INFO (815) 667-4726;
starvedrockstatepark.org
Time-Sculpted Treks
Discover rock formations so unique you wont even miss the mountains.
2
SUPERDOME: PINK
GRANITE BOULDERS
DOT THE SUMMIT OF
ENCHANTMENT ROCK.
Luke Larson, 28,
St. Louis, MO
Brian Thompson, 49,
Sauk Village, IL
Peter
Fecht, 31,
Corpus
Christi, TX
xxxxx xxxxxx
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
Day 1 Day 2 Your favorite Midwest hiking season Fall (59%), summer (18%), spring (14%), winter (9%) Day 1 Day 2
Midwest
Rip & Go
Greenstone Ridge to Rock Harbor
Michigan: Isle Royale National Park
Picture an island isolated in the expanse of an ocean-like lake. Add moose, loons, and a couple
packs of timber wolves. Top it off with wooded bays, fragrant conifers, and crested ridgelines. The
result: Isle Royale. Plus, says David Crites, the islands remoteness filters out all but those who really
want to be there, which means its rarely crowded. See some of the best of the island on an 18.4-mile
track that explores grassy ridges and waterside caves. Start at Hidden Lake dock (1), skirting Hidden Lake
(a popular hangout for moose), then climb past Monument Rock, an inland, ancient sea stack. About a
mile in, take the .1-mile path to Lookout Louise (2), a bluff-top vantage point 900 feet above fjord-like
Five Finger and Duncan Bays. Back on the Greenstone Ridge Trail, the next 5.1 miles trace the grassy
ridgeline dotted with thimbleberry bushes (ripe in late July and August) and watery views in every direc-
tion. At mile 6.2, top Mt. Franklins 1,080-foot summit (3) for panoramas stretching to Canada. Continue
southwest along Greenstone Ridge another 2.5 miles to the lookout tower on 1,133-foot Mt. Ojibway (4)
to see the islands interior lakeslike holes punched clean through to Lake Superior. Take the Mt. Ojibway
Trail south toward the Rock Harbor shoreline, set up camp at Daisy Farm Campground (six tentsites and
16 shelters) (5), then wander neighboring trails for photo ops. I was out looking for wildlife one evening
in fall, and I could hear moose moving through a nearby marsh, Crites recalls. As I put my pack down to
grab my camera, I saw a wolf standing about 50 feet behind me. It was gone in an instant. The next day,
hike east on the Rock Harbor Trail, looking for old stone foundations from the abandoned Siskowit copper
mine, which operated in the 1850s. Roughly 4 miles past the mine, visit Suzys Cave (6), an inland sea arch
sculpted by Superiors waves. Close the loop with a 1.8-mile stretch back to Rock Harbor (7) that crosses
a series of outcrops with near-constant views of the waterfront.
N
1
DOCK 47.122540,
-88.564375; 411 miles
from Minneapolis on
5th St. FERRY
Ride the Ranger III to
Rock Harbor Lodge
($53-$63; nps.gov/
isro), then take the
M.V. Sandy to Hidden
Lake dock ($41; rock-
harborlodge.com).
GEAR UP Dockside
Store next to Rock
Harbor Lodge; (906)
337-4993 SEASON
April to October
PERMITS Free; pick
up aboard the Ranger
III or at Rock Harbor.
CONTACT (906) 482-
0984; nps.gov/isro
0.0 mi
1
1.0
2
6.2
3
8.7
4
10.4
5
16.6
6
18.4
7
See our readers top spot, from lakeside to mountaintop, on a two-day loop.
David Crites, 52,
Hinckley, IL
3
2
6
4
5
7
COOLEST ANIMAL YOUVE SEEN? WOLVERINE GRIZZLY BEAR WOLF
SASQUATCH (ALLEGEDLY)
Blake
Point
Monument
Rock
Lake
Ojibway
T
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H
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Ascend the lookout tower
at Mt. Ojibway (mile 8.7).
The view from
Lookout Lou-
ise (mile 1).
Six shelters (and 16
tentsites) await at
Daisy Farm Camp-
ground (mile 10.4).
R
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Lighthouse
F
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Raspberry
Island
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ACCORDI NG
TO YOU

Kristoier
Whelan,3D,
Duluth,
'. BEST CAMPSITE
Hogback Lake
Area, Superior
NF,MN
Find beauty in soli
tude at this remote
cluster of six
backcountry lakes.
Pick up the trail at
the northern tip of
Hogback Lake, 75
miles northeast of
Duluth, and climb
southeast to a ridge
between Hogback,
Scarp, and Canal
Lakes. Descend to
Scarp's western
shore. "My favorite
site is at the tip of a
peninsula that juts
into this intimate
lake," says Kristofer
Whelan. "These
trails are so under
used, we rarely
see another soul."
Contact (218) 626-
4300; fs.usda.govl
superior
H
I
URBAN ESCAPE
Eagle Creek
State Nature
Preserve, IN
This 3,900-
acre area in
Indianapolis is
home to wooded
lakes, bald eagles,
great blue herons,
and more than 11
miles of trail, mak
ing it feel more like
a wilderness than
a city park. "To
find the most soli
tude," says Greg
Beckwith, "head
to the lesser-used
west side and
hike the roughly
3-mile network by
the lake." Contact
(218) 626-4300;
eaglecreekpark
.org
TrailMix Midwest
IIPEAK
Mt. Magazine, Mt. Magazine State Park, AR
Arkansas's tallest mountain is more than just a high
point. The 5-mile-long plateau is an airy playground,
boasting two summits (2,753-foot Signal Hill and
2,700-foot Mossback Ridge) and a network of 11
trails. "At the top, views stretch to the Arkansas River
Valley to the north and Blue Mountain Lake and the
WILDFLOWERS
Nachusa Grasslands, IL
Come summer, this 3, 500-acre restored prairie
floods with the vibrant lavender hues of pale purple
coneflower and blazing prairie star. "You'll see more
than 700 different plant species," Crites says. To
catch the best show of blooms, hike off-trail during
the peak months of June, July, and August. Contact
(708) 406-9894; nachusagrasslands.org
Ouachitas to the south," says Katrina Rinne. Traverse
it on the North Rim Trail, a 2.2-mile pOint-to-point
that runs through hardwoods and crosses bluffs. "In
the fall," Rinne says, "the air is criSp and the foliage
makes the views even more spectacular." Contact
(479) 963-8502; mountmagazinestatepark.com
l WATERFALL
o Falls Circuit, Clifty Falls SP, IN
In the Midwest, the best views are of the cascades,
flowers, streams, and wooded ravines that surround
you on the trail, says Greg Beckwith. A prime example:
This 6-mile, out-and-back dayhike that starts from the
southern end of the park. Descend into Clifty Canyon
on Trails 1, 3, and 4, turn right onto Trail 2, and maneu
ver north up a rocky streambed dotted with marine fos
sils. Stop at the base of Clifty Falls and watch as water
pours 60 feet down thin, tiered ledges. "Depending on
the season," he says, "you could see a cascade, a trickle,
or ice formations." Contact (812) 273-8885; bit.ly/Clifty
INSTA
WINNER
Tag #BPmag; follow
us @backpackermag.
For Taylor Snead, 22,
of Columbus, OH, a
quick break to escape
the rain in Zaleski
State Forest turned
into a photo op from
Moonville Tunnel.
Post-hike pub pick Boots Bar and Gri Medora, ND (bootsbarmedora com)
xxxxx xxxxxx
Top 3
Northeast
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
Reader panel stats 4,450 annual trail miles, 162 annual backcountry nights
1
High Peaks, NY
Dix Traverse
The Great Range
Traverse tends to
capture the atten-
tion of hikers looking
for multi-summit day
trips. Let them go. This
less-known 16.5-miler
touches the tops of
five 46ers (peaks taller
than 4,000 feet). From
the Elk Lake trailhead,
head counterclock-
wise. That way, youll
cover the rocky, steep
600-foot scramble up
4,390-foot Macomb
Mountain while your
legs are fresh, says
Ben Thompson. The
trees thin out along the
ridges, revealing vistas
over the Adirondacks
pointed and lake-filled
topography. Continue
on well-defined user
paths linking South Dix,
East Dix, Hough (via
South Dix), and finally
Dix, the days tallest at
4,839 feet.
-73.829026*; 110 miles
north of Albany on Elk Lake
Rd. INFO (518) 891-0235;
adk46r.org
2
Baxter SP, ME
Katahdin
Few peaks have the
trophy appeal of
5,269-foot Katahdin,
the northern terminus
of the Appalachian
Trail. This granite
massif holds four pin-
nacles and a scary-
airy, 3-foot-wide
ridge called the Knife
Edge. Its a perpetual
reader favorite. Start
from Roaring Brook
Campground, climb-
ing 1,300 feet over 3.3
miles to Chimney Pond.
Scramble under pinned
rocks to 4,919-foot
Pamola Peak. (Visiting
in winter? There is
a steep, 2,000-foot
snow climb that
ascends to the top
of the gully between
Pamola and Chimney
Peaks, Bill Bohn
notes.) Check your fear
of heights on Chimney
Peak: The 1.1-mile-long
Knife Edge has death
drops on both sides.
From South Peak, a
.8-mile ridge leads to
the famous Katahdin
sign atop Baxter Peak.
Hero shot in memory
card, descend toward
South Basin to close
the loop.
-68.857777; 97 miles north of
Bangor on Roaring Brook Rd.
INFO (207) 723-5140; bit.ly/
BaxterSP
3
White Mountains, NH
Sandwich Traverse
Look down from 10
mountaintops, see
nothing but open sky
bitten by green-sloped
mountains, and hear
nothing but wind on
this 30-mile point-
to-point. First, climb
East Osceola and Mt.
Osceola, then wind
south on the Scaur
Trail over Tripyramids
North, Middle, and
South Peaks. Join
the Sleeper Trail
over West and East
Sleepers to the full
panorama atop
4,020-foot Mt.
Whiteface. Spend a
night at the well-used
site near the summit
on Blueberry Ledge
Trail, says Lindsey
Hansen. I woke up
to a view of moun-
tains peeking above
a layer of clouds.
Pure magic! Connect
the Blueberry Ledge,
Tom Wiggins, and
Diceys Mill Trails to
Mt. Passaconaway
before exiting via the
Oliverian Brook Trail.
-71.516876; 10 miles east of
Lincoln on NH 112 INFO Buy a
parking pass ($5) at Lincoln
Woods visitor center; (603)
630-5190; bit.ly/WhMtnsNF
Peakbagging Treks
Go high in these dense clusters of mountains to hit several summits on a single hike.
2
SADDLE UP: CHIMNEY
PEAK (CENTER) STANDS
NEXT TO PAMOLA PEAK
(FOREGROUND).
Ben Thompson,
16, Honeoye
Falls, NY
Bill Bohn, 59,
Huntington,
NY
Post-hike pub pick Woodstock Inn Brewery in North Woodstock, NH (woodstockinnnh.com)
Northeast
Trail Mix
EASY-ACCESS WATERFALL
BEST CAMPSITE
Dingmans Falls, Delaware Water Gap NRA, PA
Flowed Lands Lean-to,
High Peaks, NY
With few great tracts of wilderness
to spread out in, our panel noted the
importance of concentrating back-
country impact into the regions iconic
mountain huts. This shelter, 9.2 miles up
the Calamity Brook Trail, has front-door
views of the Flowed Lands, a grassy
bowl filled by the Opalescent River.
Experience the call of the loon, the gen-
tly moving water, the mist on the Flow
in the morning giving way to sunshine
on the mountains, says Wendy Wakula.
Contact (518) 891-0235; adk.org
There are two ways to reach the states second highest waterfall: The easier, busier way, via
the .8-mile boardwalk from Dingmans Creek Visitor Center, or the more scenic 3-mile (one
way) route following the namesake creeks meander from the trailhead at US 209 and
Johnny Bee Road. Bobby Krout suggests packing a fly rod to try for brown trout and brook-
ies en route to the 130-foot splash down. Contact (570) 588-2452; nps.gov/dewa
Tag your wilderness pics #BPmag and follow
@backpackermag on Instagram.
Holly Parker, 31, of Utica, NY, snagged this shot
from Bald Mountain in the Adirondacks.
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
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Wendy
Wakula,
55, Hunts
Corners,
NY
Bobby Krout, 32,
Feasterville, PA
INSTA WINNER
SPRAY ZONE: DINGMANS FALLS
CASCADES 130 FEET.
#ADKs #NY
URBAN ESCAPE
SEASONAL SOLITUDE
FISHING HOLE
Nassau-Suffolk Greenbelt Trail,
Long Island Greenbelt, NY
Mt. Greylock, MA
C&O Canal Path, Chesapeake
& Ohio Canal NHP, MD
The normally busy summit of
Massachusettss 3,491-foot high point
empties out in the winter, when the auto
road is closed. Put on a pair of snow-
shoes or instep crampons and bag the
highest snowhill around. We saw very
few hikers, Lindsey Hansen says, and
the leafless trees provide clear views
to the rolling and snowy Berkshires.
Contact (413) 499-4262; bit.ly/Greylock
Hiking along the C&O Canal towpath
at dawn, youll notice mist rising off the
pastel-painted waters. Wet wade into
the cool waters of the Potomac for a
few hours of solitude and fishing. Just
downstream of Point of Rocks bridge are
ledges that hold smallmouth and large-
mouth bass, and tons of panfish, says
Tomas Skucas. Head down a bit more
and you can find catfish along the banks.
Contact (301) 767-3714; nps.gov/choh
Tomas Skucas,
47, Darnestown,
MD
Though close enough to NYC for day trips,
this 20-mile, north-south path is woodsy
enough to feel plenty removed. Mountain
laurel blossoms in June, summer brings
swarms of monarch butterflies, and
migratory birds stop over during the spring
and fall. But Bill Bohns favorite season
is winter, with snow on the ground and
through-the-trees views over the Sound.
Contact (631) 360-0753; ligreenbelt.org
Take a hike and explore Talkeetnas beautiful wilderness
Zipline through the forest on the south side of Denali
Flightsee over Mt. McKinley, land and hike in Denali National Park
Embark on a jet boat excursion, oat a river or kayak
With 212 guest rooms, exquisite dining and award-winning wine, our lodge
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Top 3
South
READERS
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1
Rock climbing

Red River
Gorge, KY

Enjoy the Reds famous
sandstone two ways:
on a big-view hike,
then a big-thrill climb.
Start your two-fer
weekend by hiking the
14.2-mile loop from
the Rock Bridge trail-
head connecting the
Rock Bridge, Rough,
and Swift Creek Camp
Trails. This area has
some of the most rug-
ged terrain in the gorge,
traversing several
ridges and creekbeds,
says Phil Roberts.
Pass Creation Fallsa
20-foot-wide flume
of water sliding over
sandstoneand find
a dispersed campsite
near Rock Bridge (pick
up a $5, three-day per-
mit at 12187 Campton
Road, Stanton). Next
day, head to Funk Rock
City, a roadside crag
off KY 715, for your
vertical fixfrom easy
5.6 trad climbing to a
classic sport climb on
90-foot 5.10a Manic
Impression.
-83.657885*; 60 miles
southeast of Lexington
on Tunnel Ridge Rd. INFO
(859) 745-3100; 1.usa
.gov/1aR1UHT

2

Snorkeling

Bahia Honda State
Park, FL
Sea, sun, and sand:
Find perfect propor-
tions of each at this
island park. Start by
reserving your spot
on a snorkeling tour
to Looe Key National
Marine Sanctuary
($30/adults; departs
daily at 9:30 a.m. and
1:30 p.m.), then head
out on foot while
you wait. The hikes
are short, but what
they lack in distance
they make up for in
views, says Jessica
Eilerman. The .8-mile
round-trip (from the
parking lot) links the
butterfly garden (look
for nickel-size Miami
blue butterflies) and
the remains of the
old Flaglers Railroad
Bridge. It culminates
with a wide-angle
view over azure waters
and mangrove-fringed
islands. Return to the
dock and the charter
to Looe Key, where
schools of angelfish,
barracudas, and sharks
glide through the reefy
underwater wilderness.
-81.278980; 127 miles south-
west of Miami on Old Bahia
Honda Bridge INFO (305)
872-2353; bit.ly/BahiaHon

3
Mountain biking
Cheaha State
Park, AL
Get your nature fix by
boot and by bike at
this state park boast-
ing Cheaha Mountain,
Alabamas 2,413-foot
high point. Start with a
27.9-mile overnight on
the Pinhoti Trail begin-
ning from Adams Gap.
The lack of water
sources makes this
trail a challenge, says
Patrick Barry, but it
also deters dayhikers
and less-experienced
backpackers, making
it seldom used. Youll
flush turkeys from
the undergrowth and
hear songbirds on the
climb through hickory,
mountain laurel, and
dogwoods (blooms
in spring). Skirt the
summit of Cheaha at
mile 12.2 and reach
your campsite at Blue
Mountain Shelter
(mile 12.4). Next day,
continue 15.5 miles
to the trailhead at US
431, drive back to the
park, and stay in the
primitive campground
($13/night). Day three,
grab your mountain
bike and head up the
Cheaha Express Trail,
linking 8 miles of trails
ranging from techni-
cal ascents to cruisey
singletrack.
-85.874720; 86 miles east of
Birmingham on AL 281 INFO
(256) 488-5111; alapark
.com/cheaharesort
Multisport Playgrounds
Going by foot is only one way to see whats best in the South. Bring your climbing gear, fins,
or mountain bike to find the rest.
1
MADE IN THE USA:
CREATION FALLS BURBLES
THROUGH THE RED RIVER
GORGE IN KENTUCKY.
Jessica Pellerito
Eilerman, 32, St.
Petersburg, FL
Phil Roberts,
51, Lexington,
KY
xxxxx xxxxxx Day 1 Day 2 Your favorite South hiking season Fall (63%), spring (19%), summer (12%), winter (6%) Day 1 Day 2
South
Rip & Go
Virgin Falls Trail
Tennessee: Virgin Falls Pocket Wilderness
Nicknamed the Land of Falling Water, this areas subterranean creeks flow through caves and
beneath overhanging cliffs before emerging into daylight for a spectacular show. Start this 9.4-mile
overnight lollipop loop at the trailhead off Scotts Gulf Road (1), descending into the steep limestone canyon
created by the Caney Fork River. Bring trekking poles, says Rebecca Triplett. The trails are rocky and youll
want them for balance. At mile 1.4, reach Big Branch Falls (2), which pours off a 25-foot-tall series of gran-
ite steps. Cross Big Laurel Creek .1 mile later using the cable to steady yourself if water is high (stay on the
downstream side). Continue through a forest of maple, oak, beech, and cedar until the .5-mile (one-way)
side trail (3) to Marthas Pretty Point, with stay-awhile views over a vast tract of old-growth forest. Plan
to have a long lunch while taking in the views, says Lorraine Floyd. Leave the overlook by 1 p.m., and youll
have plenty of time to get to camp before dark. Farther south, water cascades over a 40-foot shelf at Big
Laurel Falls (4) before draining into a cave. Go south at the trail junction at mile 3.5 to begin the loop section
(this direction makes the descent steeper, but affords extra time to poke around the next day), and arrive at
the star attraction: Virgin Falls (5), which emerges from a cave and tumbles 110 feet straight underground.
The campsite here is nestled in a blanket of green hardwoods, and the lullaby of water crashing onto the
rocks below makes for a relaxing night of sleep, Floyd says. Next day, continue clockwise .8 mile to Sheep
Cave (6), which is shrouded with a curtain of falling water. (Note: Caves are closed to protect bats from
White Nose Syndrome.) From the junction, its 3.5 uphill miles out (7).
GET THERE 35.854126,
-85.282223; 111 miles
east of Nashville on
Scott Gulf Rd. GEAR
UP REI, 261 Franklin
Rd., Brentwood; (615)
376-4248; rei.com
SEASON Late March
through May brings
blooming wildflowers;
late October explodes
with changing foliage;
December through
February delivers
solitude. PERMITS
None CONTACT (931)
836-3552; sparta-
chamber.net
0.0 mi
1
1.4
2
1.7
3
3.3
4
4.6
5
5.4
6
9.4
Camp alongside a thundering waterfall and explore some of the regions best karst features on a
short-distance overnight into an old-growth forest.
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
Rebecca Triplett,
36, Johnson City, TN
LEAST FAVORITE CAMP CHORE? STORING THINGS ONCE I GET HOME. PACKING TO LEAVE.
TAKING DOWN A TENT IN THE RAIN. PUMPING WATER THROUGH A CLOGGED FILTER.
ACCORDI NG
TO YOU
DOWN THE DRAIN: BIG
LAUREL FALLS SPLASHES
INTO A CAVE AT MILE 3.3.
7
Post-hike pub pick Devils Backbone Brewing Company in Roseland, VA (dbbrewingcompany.com)
BEST CAMPSITE
SPELUNKING
WILDLIFE
SHORELINE HIKE
Lower
Whitewater
Falls, Oconee
SP, SC
Mammoth
Cave NP, KY
Chattahoochee River NRA, GA
Caspersen
Beach, FL
Relax near two
of the tallest
waterfalls east
of the Rockies on
an easy-access
overnight. This
5.8-mile out-
and-back on the
Foothills Trail
goes deep into the
wavy green moun-
tains concealing
the Whitewater
River. Start at
the Whitewater
Falls parking area
(on SR 281, 49
miles west of
Greenville). In 1.7
miles, take the
Bad Creek Trail
into the Coon
Branch Natural
Area and a
conifer-enclosed
hideaway with a
view of the 200-
foot falls. Contact
(828) 257-4200;
fs.usda.gov/nfsnc
This pocket-size
national park
sits atop the
400-mile-long
underground
labyrinth of
Mammoth Cave,
the longest known
cave system in the
world. The only
way to explore
underground is on
a ranger-guided
tour (ranging from
easy to extreme,
75 minutes to six
hours, $5 to $48),
passing stalactites
and stalagmites,
ornate columns,
and subterranean
pools. Contact
(270) 758-2180;
nps.gov/maca
The riparian zone around the cold-and-clear
Chattahoochee plays host to coyotes, river otters,
beavers, barred owls, bald eagles, and bobcats.
Reach itand your best chance of viewing wood-
land critterson the Gold Branch Trail from the
Lower Roswell Road parking lot. This loop, which
starts 2.5 miles from an easy-access major road
(farther than other trailheads in the area), makes
for 3.3 miles of wilderness isolation, says Patrick
Barry. Visit in the early morning hours for your
best shot at seeing wildlife, he says. Contact (678)
538-1200; nps.gov/chat
Make sure you
scan the sand on
this 8-mile out-
and-back hike
south along the
Gulf of Mexico
near Venice: This
stretch of coast-
line is littered with
sharks teeth. Dig
in the sand right
along the surfline
for your best
chance at find-
ing some, says
Jessica Eilerman.
Contact (941) 861-
5000; scgov.net
STARGAZING
New River
State Park, NC
At night, breaks
in second-growth
pine canopy
along the Fern
Nature Trail open
skylights to the
heavens. Start
adjacent to the
Wagoner Access
Area and take
the .9-mile river-
side loop. Hint:
The ranger sta-
tion has a good
telescope. Call
before you arrive,
says Patrick Barry,
and theyll share
it with your group.
Want more?
Kayak here via
4.5 lazy miles on
the South Fork
New River. Contact
(336) 982-2587;
ncparks.gov
INSTA WINNER
Got great wilderness pics? Tag them #BPmag on Instagram
and follow us @backpackermag.
This meteor photo, taken in the Whigg Meadows of Cherokee
National Forest in Tennessee (on the Benton MacKaye Trail),
started as a long-exposure campsite scene, says photographer
Mason Boring, 24, of Madisonville, TN. Then luck stepped in.
We just happened to be in the right place at the right time,
he says. It was directly in between the Perseids and the
Orionid showers in September.
South
Trail Mix
Rich Bowerman,
52, Tocca, GA
P
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S

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GO DEEP: MAMMOTH CAVE
HAS INNUMERABLE OFF-
SHOOTS AND PASSAGES,
LIKE THIS ONE, CALLED
PENSACOLA AVENUE.
#CherokeeNF #TN
Patrick Barry,
43, Sandy
Springs, GA
First-Timer
Plan Smart
Keep your route short.
Most hikers who have
never carried a fully
loaded multiday pack
will go much slower
than they expect, and
youll want extra time
to make adjustments
on the trail. Expect to
hike about a mile an
hour, even if you usu-
ally go faster on dayhi-
kes. Choose moderate
terrain (avoid radical
elevation change), and
plan on hiking no more
than 5 or so miles per
day.
Stay Found
Novice navigator? Stay
on track:
1. Locate yourself on
the map when you
start, and check it
often so you always
know where you are
(see page 53).
2. Stay on marked
trails until youre confi-
dent in your skills.
3. Track how fast
youre moving; adjust
your plan as needed.
4. Learn how to match
Skills
P
H
O
T
O
S

B
Y

C
O
U
R
T
E
S
Y
Total
Makeovers
*Bear bag basics Learn how to hang one at backpacker.com/bear.
Give us your
rookies, your
chronic over-
packers, your
notorious
noodle-burners
yearning for a
decent camp
meal: This year,
we issued a
call for readers
in desperate
need of a skills
overhaul, and
boy, did you
answer. After
sifting through
scores of entries,
we awarded
makeovers to
the six most
compelling cases
in navigation,
cooking, family
backpacking,
photography,
and more. Read
on to witness the
transformation
and pick up a
few skills tips of
your own.
Bear safety.
Navigation. Cooking.
When Podl, 41, set
out to plan his fam-
ilys first backpack-
ing trip, his concerns
pretty much covered
the range of core
backpacking skills.
The Podls enjoyed
hiking together on
national park vaca-
tions, and Mark felt
his three children11
to 15 years oldwere
ready for a bigger
adventure. But
being in charge of
his familys comfort
and safety made all
of those other first-
time jitters even
more stressful.
Learn key beginner
skills and upgrade
gear to get the fam-
ily out overnight
In order to get the Podls off on the right foot,
Editor-in-Chief Dennis Lewon joined Mark, his
wife, Shani, and their son Zach on an over-
night hike in the Indian Peaks Wilderness
near BACKPACKERs office in Boulder,
Colorado. The plan: Give the Podls a custom
run-through of basic skills in preparation for
the familys midsummer backpacking trip in
Yellowstone National Park.
MARK PODL
ST. CHARLES, IL
Problem
Solution
The
Makeover The Trip
This avid dayhiker
ached to try back-
packing, but didnt
know where to start.
THE PODLS HIKE TO YEL-
LOWSTONES HEART LAKE
(ABOVE); MARK, LEFT, AND
SON ZACH SET UP THE
TENT (RIGHT).
In Yellowstone, the
Podls backpacked
to Heart Lake. We
got what we were
looking for: total
serenity and quiet,
says Mark. The
campsite had
a great view of
the lake and Mt.
Sheridan. No one
else was around
except for a CDT
thru-hiker. The
only catch? The
9.5-mile (one-way)
route was long for
first-timers, and
11-year-old Courtney
had sore ankles.
Mark shaved miles
from their trip itin-
erary to let her rest.
In other respects,
it was a complete
success.
Winner Wisdom
Marks advice for other
first-timers:
START SLOWLY. Try a
one- or two-night trip
to keep your load light,
and be sure you get a
great spot to enjoy the
experience.
BE READY FOR RAIN.
No matter what the
forecast says.
GEAR UP WISELY.
Dont worry about
having really cool
equipment. Get some
used stuff before you
make an investment
to be sure you get
what you really need.
PREP KIDS FOR
BEDTIME. Make your
kids pee before get-
ting into their PJs and
sleeping bag!
terrain on the map to
the features you see
on the ground (find
tips at backpacker
.com/readtopo). Find
a high vantage point
and use your surround-
ings to practice.
5. Identify land fea-
tures that serve as
handrails (like rivers
and ridges), and use
them to stay oriented.
Store Your Food
Two solutions: Hang
your food in a bear
bag* (where allowed),
or stow it in a bear
canister (best option,
but it adds weight and
bulk). To hang, use a
good branchsturdy,
about 12 feet high,
free of understory
obstructions, and 200
feet from camp. We
like bear canisters,
however, because
theyre hassle-free and
reliableand youll
never get stuck search-
ing for a suitable
branch after dark.
Master Camp
Cooking
Keep it simple: stable
canister stove, one pot,
easy menu. Packaged
rice and pasta dishes
are cheap and easy to
prepare. Or get dehy-
drated camp meals
that cook in the bag
with boiling water.
(Turn the page for
more advanced tips.)
GET MORE BEGIN-
NER ADVICE AND
DESTINATIONS AT
BACKPACKER.COM/
FIRSTNIGHTOUT.
YEAR OF
THE READER
1973 2013
SLASH FOOD
WIGHT
AND BULK
Ultralight
1. Meals
Premeasure ingredients (rice, cous
cous, dried veggies) and package
meals in their own zip-top bags.
Count every item-why carry alllO
tortillas when you only need six?
2. Cofee
Starbucks Via instant packets are
the easiest. best-tasting option
we've found ($12 for 10 serings;
.1 oz. each; starbucks.com).
3. Packing
Shrink food's packed size (and
get it all in your bear canister) by
poking holes in all prepackaged
foods, such as noodle packets.
Squeeze out the air, then cover the
hole with scotch tape.
Problem
An injury forces a
dedicated back
packer to slash pack
weight.
Solution
Smart gear swaps
and planning with
ounces in mind
Fulton, 3S, first hiked Mt. Whitney at age IS and completed the
John Muir Trail at age 32 with a 60-pound pack. But after a series of
neck surgeries and the fusing of several cervical vertebrae (the result
of a brain- and spine-damaging sports accident), doctors told her she
would not backpack again-unless she slashed her pack weight to 40
pounds. We thought that was too heavy, so we set our sights on get
ting her load down even lower.
LESLEY FULTON
FULLERTON, CA
The
Makeover
Fulton worked with BACKPACKER Gear Editor Kristin Hostetter to replace most of her gear,
which she'd bought a decade ago when items were heavier (and she didn't have a medical rea
son to cut weight). Hostetter also taught her to track ounces with a spreadsheet system.
Upgrade Your Gear Fulton reduced her pack's base weight (everything you're carrying, minus food,
water, and fuel) from more than 33 pounds to less than 15. Here's how:
OLD GEAR
Tent
5 lbs. 3 oz.
Sleeping bag
4 lbs. 1 oz.
Sleeping pad
lib. 4 oz.
Backpack
6 lbs. 11 oz.
Stove and cookware
15 oz.
Other (clothing, water
bottles, first aid, etc.)
15 lbs. 5 oz.
-

NEW GEAR
Big Agnes Fly Creek
I Platinum, 2 lbs.
($5*; bim)
Sierra Designs Cal 13,
1 lb. 13 oz.
($500; sierrade
signs.com)
Therm-a-Rest
Women's Neo Air XLite,
13 oz. ($160; cascad
edesigns.com)
Granite Gear Crown
\e 60 Ki, 21bs. 2 oz.
($200; granitegear
.com)
Snow Peak Giga Power
stove, 3 oz. ($50;
snowpeak
.com) and Everew
ECA 252 cookset, 4 oz.
($54; evernewamer
ica.com)
7 lbs. 14 oz.
WEIGHT SAVED
3 lbs. 3 oz.
+
21bs. 40z.
+
7 oz.
+
4 lbs. 9 oz.
+
Boz.
+
7 lbs. 7 oz.
-
-
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
33 lbs. 6 oz. 141bs. 15 oz.
Obsess Over the
Little Things
Get a digital scale
that measures to
tenths of ounces. It
will help you decide
between the 8-ounce
rain pants and the
5-ouncers. Do that for
15 items and you've
saved yourself almost
3 pounds,
Be ruthless. Ditch
the camp shoes
(wear lighter boots
and you won't need
them). Skip the pil
low (use your puffy
jacket, stuffed into its
own hood to form a
ball). And swap your
heavy-duty bottle for
a 32-ounce Gatorade
bottle (saves you 5
ounces).
Repack consum
abies. Use small
bottles of sunscreen,
bug dope, and hand
sanitizer, or repack
them in travel-size
containers (such as
the GSI Outdoor Soft
Sided bottles; $12;
gsioutdoors.com).
Slim your first-aid
kit. Do you really need
the 2-ounce manual,
or 12 gauze bandages
for a single trip? Ditch
heavier nylon zippered
cases for a light zip
top bag.
The Trip
Last August, Fulton
completed her sec
ond thru-hike of the
221-mile JMT in 20
days (highest total
pack weight: 3B
pounds with 10 days
of food). "The lighter
load helped me hike
faster," Fulton says.
"I got to campsites
sooner and was able
to enjoy lake swims,
relaxing lunches, and
side explorations.
And I didn't really
miss any of my oid
'comfor gear.' I had
always shied away
from ultralight gear
because I thought it
would mean a sufer
fest. I was so wrong."
Winner Wisdom
CARRY LESS WATER.
"Before every pass,
I asked northbound
hikers about the water
situation up ahead.
This meant that I could
get away with packing
far less."
PRACTICE. "I took
several shakedown
hikes before the JMT
After each, I reassessed
everything in my pack.
I learned I could do
without a lot I'd never
considered leaving
behind: a pillow, a
Nalgene, PJs."
Track every ounce See the gear spreadsheet FuJton used for her 2013 JT tnp at backpacker comJT
*Upgrading to the lightest gear isn't cheap. If you can't aford a total makeover, start by
replacing your shelter, then sleeping bag, then pack for the biggest weight savings.
Made to order You d ont need to prepare all ingredients at once. Prep and dry fruits one night, grains other, and meats a third.
Skills
Basecamp
LARISSA AND
ROBERT
BENGTSON
ORANGEVALE, CA
Problem
Solution
The
Makeover
Learn how to dehy-
drate delicious
meals and upgrade
kitchen gear
These newbies din-
ners ranged from
uninspired (energy
bars?) to just plain
gross (instant stuff-
ing with butter).
with their .8-liter pot
($15; .8 oz.).
Accessories The
GSI Outdoors nFORM
Crossover Kitchen
has it alla four-way
spice bottle, spatula,
serving spoon with
etched measure-
ments on the side,
oil and soap bottles,
a mini cutting board,
pot scraper, and
toweland fits in
most cookpots ($38;
9.6 oz.; gsioutdoors
.com).
Personal The
Bengtsons upgraded
with Sea to Summits
hard nylon Delta
Bowls ($8; 2.8 oz.;
seatosummit.com),
which come with a
loop for clipping to
a pack, measuring
tick marks, and a
raised pattern on the
bottom to prevent
lap burns; sturdy,
8.5-inch-long Alpha
Lite Long Spoons
reach to the farthest
corners of a freezer
bag ($9; .4 oz.). We
rounded it out with a
pair of Editors Choice-
winning Snow Peak
Double Wall Ti 450
Mugs ($50; 4.2 oz.;
snowpeak.com).
Cleanup The Sea to
Summit Folding Bucket
(10 liters) makes haul-
ing water to camp and
washing dishes easier
($30; 2.8 oz.; seato-
summit.com).
Dry Your Own
Meals
Dehydrating doesnt
stop at fruit and jerky.
Drying entire meals
makes for an endless
variety of economical,
lightweight recipe
possibilitiesall with
ultrasimple prep and
cleanup. Your favorite
meals at home can
also be adapted to
the trail. Dry each
ingredient separately,
then mix them in a
bowl and scoop out
individual meals
(about 1 cup per
The Bengtsons connected with Gear Editor
Kristin Hostetter for menu-planning, tech-
nique, and kitchen gear advice. Her first tip:
Invest in a dehydrator (our pick: NESCO/
American Harvest models; $48 and up; nesco
.com). Next, we replaced their cooking system
and hooked them up with kitchen accessories
(details below) to mix and match depending
on the trip and the menu. Finally, we started
the Bengtsons off with a bunch of recipe
ideas and tipsand within days, they were
experimenting with recipes of their own.
Larissa (43)
and Robert (42)
Bengtson, who dis-
covered backpack-
ing about a year
ago, loved every
minute of their
adventures except
mealtime. The cou-
ples ideal meals set
the bar high: tasty,
nutritious, afford-
able, lightweight,
and easy to prepare.
Cooking
Outt Your Camp
Kitchen
The Bengtsons loved
their Jetboil Zip Stove,
but were cooking with
the included .8-liter
cupinsufficient for
two hungry campers
hell-bent on going
gourmet. With the Zip
as a starting point,
we built them a more
versatile kitchen.
Cookset A 1.5-liter
pot ($60; 12 oz.;
jetboil.com) cooks up
entrees and hot drinks
for two; we added the
Coffee Press to use
FRUITY NUTTY COUSCOUS
P
H
O
T
O
S

B
Y

A
N
D
R
E
W

B
Y
D
L
O
N

(
3
)
;

C
O
U
R
T
E
S
Y

(
3
)
YEAR OF
THE READER
1973 2013
person) into quart

size freezer bags. In
camp, add hot water
in each bag to cover
(add more if the dish
seems dry), stir, let sit
15 to 25 minutes, then
dig in with a long
handled spoon. Here's
how to dial in each
ingredient.
Carbs Precooked
grains cook faster
than the regular stuff
in camp, which also
saves fuel. Pasta:
Choose small, thin
shapes (they dry
faster) and cook until
al dente. Dry until
brittle. Rice and qui
noa: Prepare accord
ing to package direc
tions (experiment
with jasmine, Wild, or
basmati rice variet
ies). Line dehydrator
trays with a fine mesh
screen or parchment
paper; dry grains for
two to three hours.
Proteins Add flavor
and calories with
precooked proteins.
Meats: Fat inhibits
drying, so start with
the leanest steak or
ground turkey, beef, or
chicken possible and
trim visible fat. Brown
in a skillet with your
favorite spices. Rinse
to remove residual
grease, then dry until
very hard (ground
meat) or soft and
chewy (jerky). Beans
and lentils: Cook dried
varieties (or rinse
canned beans). Dry
until brittle.
Sauces Prepare your
favorite sauce and
spread it very thin on
plastic tray liners. Dry
until it resembles fruit
leather (8-10 hours).
Break it into pieces
and store in a bag.
Veggies Carrots, pep
pers, onions, corn, and
celery are easy flavor
boosters. Chop into
small pieces and dry
until hard. Tip: Empty
a bag of frozen veg
gies directly onto your
tray and let 'er rip (no
defrosting necessary).
SAVE CASH
Stock up when favorite ingredients (such as ground beef, canned
beans, or in-season produce) are cheap, then dry big batches.
Always a good deal: bulk bins.
The Trip
The Bengtsons refined their drying and cooking skills all summer on
trips in Yosemite, Big Basin Redwoods State Park, and Point Reyes
National Seashore. "Dehydrating your own ingredients opens up a
whole new world of food for backpacking," says Larissa. "It's intimidat
ing at first, but once we realized how easy it is, and what a vast difer
ence it makes in the quality and variety of our meals, we became kind
of addicted to it. We try out something new on every trip."
.Winner Wisdom
Here are three of the
Bengtsons' favorite
creations.
FRUITY NUT
COUSCOUS
Serves 1
V, cup couscous
1 Tbsp powdered
milk
Tbsp brown sugar
1-2 pouches Justin's
Nut Butter (any
variety)
Handful dried fruits
(we like blueberries
and bananas)
Tbsp chopped,
roasted nuts
At home Pack first
three ingredients in a
freezer bag; carry the
others separately.
In camp Add nut
butter and fruit to
the freezer bag. Add
just enough hot water
to barely cover the
couscous; set aside
(wrapped in a jacket
or bag koozie for
insulation) for 10 to 15
minutes. Stir well and
top with nuts.
EGG SCRAMBLE
Serves 4-6
12 eggs
' cup milk
1 lb. ground sausage
Hb. bag frozen
shredded hash
browns, no oil
added
packet country
style white gravy
Salt and pepper to
taste
At home
Dehydrate hash
browns from frozen
(about3 hours). Whisk
eggs with milk,
plus salt and pep-
per. Scramble the
eggs (don't overdo
it, or they'll be rub
bery or crunchy after
rehydration). Brown
and cook the sau-
sage. Drain well, rinse
with water, and pat
dry with paper towels
to remove as much fat
as possible. Dehydrate
eggs and sausage on
separate trays. Once
everthing is dried, mix
ingredients in a bowl
and add the dry gravy
mix, tossing to coat.
Pack portions into
freezer bags (one cup
makes a very hearty
breakfast or dinner).
In camp Add enough
hot water to bag to
generously cover the
ingredients, plus a
little more. Wrap in
something insulating
and let sit for 15 to 20
minutes.
GREEN CHILI WITH
CHICKEN
Serves 4
4 cups instant rice
2 cups enchilada
verde sauce
can white beans
lb. ground chicken
cup salsa verde
12-oz. can fire
roasted tomatoes
lb. frozen corn
2 bell peppers, diced
1 pasilla chili, diced
banana pepper,
diced
At home Coat the rice
with the enchilada
verde sauce and dehy
drate on a solid tray
liner. Dehydrate beans,
corn, peppers, and
chili separately. Mix
salsa verde, roasted
toratoes, and chicken,
cook thoroughly in
a big skillet, then
dehydrate. Combine
all dehydrated ingre
dients in a bowl and
mix thoroughly. Scoop
individual servings into
freezer bags (one cup
per person).
In camp Add enough
hot water to gener
ously cover the ingre
dients, plus another
inch or so. Knead the
bag a bit before wrap
ping it in an insulating
layer or bag koozie.
Let bag sit 20 to 30
minutes.
Vary your photos Plan and shoot wide-angle landscapes, closeups, portraits, and candids on every trip.
Skills
Basecamp
FRED BACKHAUS
LANGHORNE, PA
Problem
Solution
The
Makeover
Photography
This enthusiastic
shooter was drown-
ing in too many bad
hiking photos.
Compose and cap-
ture images thought-
fully and implement
a simple editing and
organization system.
Backhaus, 43, has
the passion required
for great backcoun-
try photography.
So much so, in fact,
that hed come
home from hikes
with hundreds of
mundane shots of
rocks, trees, and his
frustrated kids. Once
home, his unedited,
unorganized pho-
tos piled up on his
computer, never to
be seen again. Its
so tedious, it makes
me not want to take
pictures anymore,
he confessed in his
application.
Backhaus consulted with BACKPACKER Photo Editor Genny Fullerton, who walked him through choosing better subjects,
exposure, composition, photo editing, and filing his shots, whether he was shooting with a DSLR or a point-and-shoot.
Last fall, he and Fullerton met up for a hands-on photography tutorial.
COMPOSITION 101: INCLUDE
LARGE AND SMALL DETAILS.
IN BACKHAUSS PHOTO
A BOVE, THE CLOSE-UP
LEAVES AND ROCKS LEND
TEXTURE AND THE BACK-
GROUND TREES PROVIDE
AN INTERESTING PATTERN,
MAKING THE SHOT MORE
ENGAGING THAN A WATER-
FALL ALONE.
GET A FRESH PERSPECTIVE
BY PLACING THE CAMERA
LOW (LEFT) OR CLIMBING
A TREE.
TAKE YOUR TIME.
Most point-and-
shoots need an extra
moment to focus;
hold the camera
steady until the shot
is complete.
LOCK IN SETTINGS.
Press the shutter
halfway down to lock
exposure and focus.
Fine-tune your com-
position, then press it
all the way down.
IMPROVE EXPOSURE.
Its tough to judge
proper exposure on
a small cameras
LCD screen, which
tends to result in
overexposed images.
After taking a photo,
check the images
histogram: This graph
shows the images
distribution of dark
tones (on the left)
and light tones
(right). Spikes on
either edge indicate
under- or overexpo-
sure. To darken, dial
down the cameras
exposure compensa-
tion (many cameras
have a button that
looks like this: ); to
let in more light, dial
it higher. Fullerton
finds - /
2
3 is usually
her best bet outdoors.
SHOOT IN RAW (IF
YOUR CAMERA SUP-
PORTS IT). You
might think RAW
is for experts, but
really, its for people
who mess up a lot,
Fullerton says. This
unprocessed file for-
mat gives you more
flexibility while edit-
ing (as opposed to a
JPEG, which is already
compressed and pro-
cessed).
Shoot on the Go
Be ready for fleeting
photo ops (and keep
from annoying your
partners with endless
camera futzing) with
these tips.
HAVE GEAR
ACCESSIBLE. Carry
your camera and
lenses in a chest
pack, not buried
in your backpack.
BACKPACKERs staff
photographer likes
the Cotton Carrier
Camera Vest ($150;
cottoncarrier.com).
SPEED UP. Hike
ahead of the group
and get in position
to shoot as they
approach you for the
most flattering pho-
tos. (Good: friends
faces. Bad: friends
butts.) Scramble
above the trail to
get wider shots that
put your buddies in
perspective with the
scenery.
USE REST BREAKS.
Breaks are a great
opportunity for
candids. Take them
in scenic spots with
even lighting (full
sun or full shade, not
splotchy). Snack on
the go so that youre
ready to shoot when
others stop.
Get the Most
Out of a Point-
and-Shoot
You dont need an
expensive DSLR
to nail impressive
shotsyou just need
to know your way
around the camera
you have.
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1973 2013
*ISO A measure of a cameras sensitivity to light
Winner Wisdom
STUDY YOUR CAM-
ERA. Using manual
mode isnt as scary
as you think. Learn
how to adjust shutter
speed, aperture, and
ISO on your camera
before you do any-
thing else.
GET SOME COACH-
ING. Ask a more
experienced friend
to join your next hike
or take a workshop
(or enter a makeover
contest!). The infor-
mation finally stuck
when someone took
photos with me.
DONT RELY ON EDIT-
ING. Editing should
involve a short range
of adjustments.
Follow the tips above,
and the camera will
do most of the work.
The Trip
Last October, Backhaus and Fullerton hiked in Pennsylvanias Evansburg and Lehigh Gorge
State Parks to practice capturing bright fall foliage and flowing waterfalls. They chose the
forest to take advantage of the cloudy days diffused, even light (which doesnt cast harsh
shadows). I learned how to focus on what pictures I want to take, which makes me concen-
trate on quality over quantity, Backhaus says. Ive been on several family hikes since the
makeover, and my boys also appreciate the lessons Ive learned!
DESIRED
EFFECT
Motion blur
(silky water,
fast-moving
subject)
Freeze-framed
action (fast-
moving people
or wildlife)
Selective focus
(sharp subject,
blurred fore- or
background)
Low-light
shots
PRIMARY
ADJUSTMENT
Slow down
shutter
Speed up
shutter
Open aperture
wide (f/5.6 or
lower)
Increase ISO
ALSO
CHANGE
Close aperture
and/or lower
ISO
Widen aper-
ture and/or
increase ISO
Speed up
shutter and/or
lower ISO
Widen aper-
ture and slow
shutter
NOTE
Slower shutters
up the risk for
camera shake;
use a tripod.
Wider aper-
tures mean a
narrower field
of focus.
Double-check
that youre
focused on
your subject.
High ISOs up
risk of noise
(graininess).
Master 3
Essential Edits
WHITE BALANCE
Neutralizes color casts
and tints (like the
blue tones that can
creep into photos shot
in the shade)
CONTRAST/
SHARPNESS Darkens
dark tones and bright-
ens light ones to bring
out detail and empha-
size texture
SHADOWS ADJUST-
MENT Lightens the
dark parts of the
image without over-
brightening the lighter
areas.
Fullerton uses
Adobe Lightroom
($149; adobe.com) for
editing and organiz-
ing photos. Not only
does this software
serve as a catalog for
your files, its a non-
destructive editing
program (meaning it
wont overwrite your
original).
Organize Your
Photos
The single most com-
mon mistake rookies
make when sorting
shots: renaming
photos in a generic,
hard-to-search way
(boys on the beach,
summer vacation).
Here are two ways to
keep photos in order:
SIMPLE Create a new
folder on your com-
puter for every trip.
Start with the date
(year, month, day),
then add a place
descriptor: 2013 0312
Yellowstone NP.
ADVANCED Rename
a given group of
shots at once using
your programs batch
rename tool when
you upload them.
Create a method and
stick to it so your
photos will autosort
(Fullerton uses her
name, date taken,
then the file number
assigned by the cam-
era). If your software
supports keywords,
add them on import
(ex. Longs Peak or
Sol Duc Falls)oth-
erwise, youll never
go back to organize
them. This will make
your shots much
easier to sort and
search later.
-
2 . . 1 . . . . 1 . .
+
2
0
Dial in Exposure
Imagine the light in your camera is on a scale that needs to balance;
if you add more light by slowing the shutter speed, you also must
subtract some by narrowing the aperture and/or lowering the ISO*.
Start by checking your cameras exposure meter (above) and bringing
the arrow as close to 0 as possible. Check your histogram to see if you
need to compensate higher or lower. Then, when you make an adjust-
ment to get a desired effect (below), also change the other factors
until your meter goes back to the proper exposure.
Available at
A3action.com
JORDAN
ROMERO
Youngest person
in the World to
climb the 7 Summits
A3 fuels me to keep charging
through my climbs and adventures,
along with my everyday life. Its the
best tasting bar Ive ever had and is
the perfect t for my active lifestyle.
Know the limits Most kids can handle about half a mile of hiking for every year of age.
Skills
Basecamp
Outt Kids Right
PACKS Have kids
carry a pack so they
feel like theyre part of
the team, Hostetter
says. Kids ages 4 to 7
can handle daypacks
with clothing, snacks,
and water; older
kids can add their
own sleeping bags.
Parents: Choose packs
large enough (70 to
90 liters) to schlep
the kids extra gear.
FOOTWEAR Youth
athletic shoes are fine
for most trips. Make
sure boots are fully
broken in on dayhikes
before the trip.
SLEEPING BAGS/
PADS Child-size bags
mean less weight for
them (or you) to haul;
most junior models
are budget-friendly
synthetics. Kids are
usually ready for an
adult bag around age
12. And dont skip
sleeping pads: Kids
absolutely need pads
to protect them from
the cold ground,
Hostetter says. Foam
mats or thin, self-
inflatable pads should
do the trick.
TENTS Choose a cou-
ple of two- or three-
person tents over one
huge family shelter;
theyre much easier
to pack and carry, and
older kids appreciate
their own space.
Cook for a Crowd
BREAKFAST Camp
pancakes are a treat,
especially with berries
or chocolate chips.
LUNCH Skip the
elaborate midday
meal for trail bars,
PB&J, crackers with
cheese and salami,
dried fruit, and nuts.
DINNER Make it a hot
meal you know your
kids will like: macaroni
and cheese, pasta,
fajitas, or pizza.
TREATS Keep a sup-
ply of special snacks
they wouldnt nor-
mally get at home,
Hostetter advises.
Dont forget dessert:
Hot chocolate, worms
and dirt, and smores
are big kid-pleasers
(see backpacker.com/
dessert for recipes).
Keep Kids
Engaged
INVOLVE THEM Older
children can act as
navigators by reading
the map and monitor-
ing progress. In camp,
all ages can pitch in
by setting up tents,
fetching water, and
helping with meals.
SET MINI-GOALS
Break down the hike
into smaller, attain-
able goals: Lets get
to the river or Well
have a snack break at
the top of the hill.
PLAY GAMES
Scavenger hunts are
classic: Who can
find a blue bird? Birch
tree? Or prepare a
list pretrip and give
kids a camera for a
photo hunt. Play word
games, such as the
ABC Game: Im going
on a hike and I packed
an avocado. Im
going on a hike and
I packed an avocado
and a baseball hat
CHAD AND KAARIN
HEAP
RAMONA, CA
Problem
Solution
The
Makeover
Plan a kid-focused
hike and get the
right youth gear
Mom and Dad love
backpacking, but
dont know how to
execute fun trips for
the whole family.
Chad (39) and
Kaarin (36) Heap
know backpacking.
But backpacking
with kids? Thats
another story. The
Heaps wanted to
get Sara, 12, Owen,
10, Emmett, 8,
and Nathan, 4, out
of the car camp-
grounds theyd
mastered and into
the backcountry,
but didnt know
how to take the
leap. Chads top
concerns: planning,
cooking, gear, and
criticallymaking
sure the youngest
Heaps had fun. If
they have a bad
experience, theyre
not going to want to
do it anymore, he
said in his contest
entry. We need to
know how to plan
to make sure they
have an enjoyable
time.
We set up the Heaps with a personalized skills tutorial from Gear Editor Kristin Hostetter, her-
self a seasoned family camper with sons Charlie, 13, and Joey, 11. Then we set up the clan with
some key items, including kids hydration packs, daypacks, and sleeping bags.
Family Camping
The Heaps tested
their newfound
knowledge on a
two-nighter in
Californias San
Gorgonio Wilderness
last August. The old-
est three kids easily
handled 12-pound
daypacks (Nathan
proudly hauled a
3-pounder of his
own) on the moder-
ate, 1.7-mile hike to
camp. Once there,
the kids feasted
on Pop-Tarts and
grilled cheese sand-
wiches, played card
games, kicked back
in hammocks, wrote
in journals, invented
a pinecone bowling
game, and searched
for scorpions (final
tally: five). My dad
taught me how to
filter waterits
really fun, Owen
wrote in his journal.
And I got to do
something that Id
never done before:
poop in a hole. Its
a lot harder than it
sounds.
Winner Wisdom
START KIDS FRESH.
Nathan (our 4-year-
old) can hike 1.7 miles,
but I didnt consider
that hed be tired from
the car ride, Chad
says. I ended up carry-
ing him the last quar-
ter-mile. On Sunday
morning he was fresh
and did much better
with the hike out.
SKIP THE PJS. Kids
dont care if they sleep
in their clothes. The
PJs we packed were
just extra weight.
TAKE LOADS OF
PICTURES. The kids
loved taking and pos-
ing for photos. And
when we look back
at them now, they
remember how much
fun it was.
The Trip
FROM LEFT: CHAD, KAARIN, NATHAN, OWEN, SARAH, AND EMMETT GOOF AROUND ON THEIR FIRST BACKPACKING TRIP.
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YEAR OF
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1973 2013
N
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*Adjust for declination Visit backpacker.com/declination for details.
RACHAEL
STANFORD
MACKINAW, IL
Problem Solution
The
Makeover
Study and practice
key map, compass,
and GPS skills
Lack of navigation
know-how regularly
leads this reader into
sticky situations.
We hooked Stanford up with an intensive, five-hour private outdoor
coaching session with Chuck Stark, senior instructor for REIs Chicago
Outdoor School. The crash course covered key topics such as reading
a topo map, taking and following a bearing, and off-trail travel, and
thenmost importantlygot Stanford out in the field to practice her
newfound knowledge.
Navigation
Stanford, 28, tried learning navigation skills through books, video
tutorials, and even a group coursebut out of the classroom, noth-
ing seemed to stick. In real life, it never completely translates, she
confessed. With big plans to backpack through the Canadian Rockies
or Alaska next summer on her honeymoon, Stanford knew it was time
to focus. As it stands, my backcountry navigation skills arent up to
snuff for a trip like that, she said.
Orient a Map
First: Adjust your
compass for decli-
nation*. Place your
compass on the edge
of the map with the
direction-of-travel
arrow parallel to map
(true) north. Rotate
the map and com-
pass together until
the magnetic needle
lines up with the
orienting arrow. What
you see on the map
now matches your
surroundings.
Take and Follow
a Bearing
Figuring out the
direction you need
to go to reach a des-
tinationlike a top
campsite or fishing
holeis called taking
a bearing. To do it,
identify your current
position (a) and your
destination (b) on
the map. Place the
compass on the map
with the long side of
the baseplate con-
necting the two loca-
tions; the direction-
of-travel arrow should
point to your destina-
tion. Turn the dial to
make the meridian
MAGNETIC ARROW
BASEPLATE
DIAL
MERIDIAN
ORIENTING LINES
ORIENTING
ARROW
DIRECTION-OF-
TRAVEL ARROW
INDEX LINE
(a)
(b)
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Z
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Stanford and Stark met at the Sag Valley Forest Preserve in Cook County, IL, a reserve domi-
nated by hardwood forest, glacial moraines, and lakes. There, they used the topo map to build
landscape features out of clay and compare them to their surroundings, practiced taking bear-
ings, and hiked off-trail. At the beginning, Rachael was hesitant, Stark says. By the end,
she was orienting the map and pointing right to where we were. I could see she was looking at
a map, not just squiggly lines. Stanford adds: I definitely feel more confident. Big trips seem
a lot more doable now.
The Trip
Skills
Basecamp
lines parallel to the
maps north-south
lines, making sure the
orienting arrow points
north. The number at
the index line is your
bearing.
To follow a bearing,
hold the compass in
front of you and turn
your body until the
magnetic arrow lines
up with the orienting
arrow. Hike to where
the index line points,
keeping the other
arrows aligned.
Find Yourself on
a Map
Not sure exactly
where you are on
that ridge or in that
valley? Use your
tools to pinpoint your
location. Heres how.
With a compass
Orient your map (see
page 53). Holding
the compass at waist
height, point the
direction-of-travel
arrow at a known
landmark, such as
a prominent peak.
Rotate the dial
until the magnetic
arrow and the ori-
enting arrow line
up. The number
at the index line is
your bearing (in the
example above, 100
degrees). Now draw
a long line through
the landmark at 100
degrees. Repeat with
another landmark at
least 60 degrees away
from the first. Your
location is where the
lines intersect. (Add
a third bearing for
an even more precise
estimate.)
With a GPS First,
make sure your GPS
datum (the survey
grid used to create
the map, i.e., WGS 84
or NAD 27) matches
your maps. Mark a
waypoint and view
your coordinates.
If using UTM, the
first coordinate (the
easting) represents
how far right you are
from the left side of
the map. The second
(northing) is how
far up you are from
the bottom. Use
your maps blue UTM
grid (visible in the
margins) to estimate
your location.

Estimate Travel
Time
Expect to travel
approximately 2
miles per hour on
flat terrain; add one
hour to your total
for every 1,000 feet
of elevation gained
and 30 minutes for
every 1,000 feet you
descend.
Winner Wisdom
PRACTICE ON
MARKED TRAILS.
It lets you double-
check your map skills
against known land-
marks, and you wont
get hopelessly lost.
SET A BACKSTOP. A
backstop is a point
that tells you youve
gone too far past your
destination. If you
choose a river on your
map as a backstop
and then reach the
river, you know you
need to turn around.
SLOW DOWN.
Keeping track of
everything you need
to observe is nearly
impossible while hik-
ing at a steady pace.
Allot extra time and
stop frequently to
check your progress.
YEAR OF
THE READER
1973 2013
Get the best maps Go to backpacker.com/promaps.
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100+ STORES | REI.COM | MOBILE
THE HOLIDAY
SWEATER JUST
GOT JEALOUS
Gear
Your favorite productsboth brand new and
tried and true. Plus: Readers vote on top brands,
best luxe items, and more.
[all-season tent]
Eastern Mountain
Sports Traverse
Why I love it In the Pacific
Northwest, a depend-
able, year-round shelter is
paramount. This tent is a
fortress in winter, yet its
airy enough for summer
andwhen split between
two peopleis quite
manageable to carry on
mild-weather backpacking
trips.
Protection Four sturdy 9mm
poles, four pole junctions,
a combo of clips and pole
sleeves, and three-point guy-
lines gave the Traverse the
fortitude to withstand lash-
ing winds in Washingtons
Goat Rocks Wilderness and
exposed snow-camping on
Montanas Mt. Stuart.
Space With 33 square feet
of floor space and a 45-inch
peak height, my partner and
I had plentiful head- and
elbowroom to wait out a
pounding thunderstorm
in Oregons Indian Heaven
Wilderness. The 10-square-
foot vestibule allows for
stacked pack storage or
cooking in nasty weather.
Ventilation A big mesh front
door and four ceiling vents
provide good airflow in warm
weather, but condensation
accumulated on cool fall
nights.
Fave features I loved the
glowing zipper pulls and the
10 (!) interior pockets.
$400; 6 lbs. 4 oz.; ems
.com Reader service #102
Reader tester stats 3,312 annual miles hiked, 168 backcountry nights
WHIT VOGEL, 31
Hometown Portland, OR
Day job Art Director
[bargain shell]
Marmot PreCip
I bought it for the $100
price tag, but I love it for the
performance. This shell is a
workhorse: The fully seam-
taped PreCip fabric has
kept me bone dry through
full days of hard rain
and wind in Grand Teton
National Park. And because
its so packable (down to
softball size) and light, it
comes on every adventure,
whether a quick dayhike up
Wyomings Sheep Mountain
or a multiday backpack
through the Wind River
Range. The hood adjusts
snugly around my head
for good visibility in any
weather. The fabric doesnt
breathe as well as many
high-end competitors, but
the pit zips and pocket
vents help dump heat when
Im working hard. My PreCip
is unscathed despite three
years of hard use. $100;
11 oz. (ws S); ms S-XXL,
ws XS-XXL; marmot.com
Reader service #101
Stephanie Buelow, 25,
Jackson, WY
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
xxxxx xxxxxx
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Zzzzzzz. 44 percent of you pack pillows on overnight trips.
Gear
B asecamp
[durable boots]
Asolo Vertex GV
These are the quintessential
backpacking boots. High cut
and made from a combo of
split grain leather and syn-
thetic fabric, theyre burly
and supportive enough for
any type of trip in any type
of terrain, yet break-in was
practically instantaneous.
Whether I was climbing up
scree fields in Yellowstone,
glacier hiking in Banff,
doing trail work in New
Hampshire, or backpacking
in the Grand Canyon, the
Vertex gave me killer trac-
tion thanks to an aggressive
heel brake and deep Vibram
lugs. I carried up to 90
pounds while wearing these
boots, and my feet never
complained. A polyurethane
lasting board provides stiff-
ness and support from heel
to arch. Durability is top
notch: Mine have seen 300+
days and 3,000+ trail miles
and, besides some expected
wear on the tread, they
show no sign of weakness.
$245; 2 lb. 12 oz. (ms 8);
asolo-usa.com Reader
service #104
Gerben Scherpbier
[ultralight backpack]
Mountainsmith
Haze 50
Why I love it Most ultra-
light gear comes at a price
that pushes it out of my
budget. But the 50-liter
Haze is affordable enough
for an unpaid intern like
me, and after five months
of testing, its muddied
and sun-bleached but
doesnt have so much as a
loose thread.
Stability The (removable)
EVA foam back sheet is not
meant for monster loads,
but the frameless Haze
handled 30 pounds on a
weeklong backpack in the
Winds. Even after a 25-mile
day my shoulders felt fine,
despite the packs lack of
load-lifter straps.
Organization The Haze
lacks a toplid (to save
weight) in favor of a cinch
cord. Two front pockets
store raingear, and stretchy
side sleeves fit water
bottles .
Fave feature The hipbelt:
Cutouts keep it pliable,
so it wraps smoothly and
distributes weight around
my iliac crest. A pronounced
lumbar pad sticks weight at
my best load-bearing point.
$130; 1 lb. 13 oz. (S/M); 2
sizes; mountainsmith.com
Reader service #103
SHEY KIESTER, 22
Hometown
Jeffersonville, VT
Day job Editorial intern,
Alpinist magazine
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
WHO MAKES THE BEST TENTS?
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MSR Hilleberg Tarptent All
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What you love, how you buy, the heaviest pack
youve carried, and more*
ACCORDI NG TO YOU
189
NIGHTS SPENT OUTSIDE ON THE LONGEST STRETCH
OF CONTINUOUS CAMPING
(Denis Daly, Fincastle, VA)
Gerben Scherpbier, 21,
Hanover, NH
*
Based on 1,408 responses to our online reader survey
Stephanie Buelow, 25,
Jackson, WY
xxxxx xxxxxx Crocs Your favorite camp shoe (by a lot)
Gear
Basecamp
[gourmet pot set]
MSR Base 2
This nesting pot set (ideal
for two to three people)
allows me to move beyond
the one-pot meal (hello
backcountry Thanksgiving
with stuffing and mashed
potatoes!). It includes
1.5- and 2.5-liter pots, a
strainer lid and removable
pot handle that work with
both, and a little towel for
cleanup duty. An 8-ounce
fuel canister, stove, and my
bowl easily fit inside. Ive
bashed these aluminum
pots all over North America:
They have held their shape
and the nonstick coating on
the pots is unscathed (Im
careful to use non-metal
utensils). But its the little
ergonomic details that make
this set such a gem, like
an easy-to-grab lid lifter
and a sturdy handle that
never gets hot. $60; 1 lb. 2
oz.; cascadedesigns.com
Reader service #105
Becca Stubbs
[daypack]
Gregory Maya 18
This little pack is a great
all-arounder for bike com-
muting and dayhikes. Its
frameless, so I can roll it
up and stow it inside a
duffel or larger backpack
(I often use it for summit-
ing on multiday trips). It
holds a 3-liter hydration
system (not included),
which I can access from
the outside, and still
has enough room in the
main compartment for a
jacket, lunch, and a few
necessities. Deep, stretchy
side pockets, a big front
shove-it pocket, and two
hipbelt pockets keep me
organized. And the dual
side compression straps
mean I can cinch it down
and keep it close to my
back even when its nearly
empty. $99; 1 lb. 9 oz.; 18
liters; gregorypacks.com
Reader service #106
Lisa Chu
[two-person bag]
Big Agnes King
Solomon
After years of zipping
together two trim mummy
bags, my husband and
I have become big fans
of this luxurious, 600-
fill down, two-person
backcountry bed. A bulky
double bag presents a
packing challengeeven
cranked into a compres-
sion sack (not included),
this bag measures about
10 by 12 inchesso youll
need a large capacity
pack. But the weight and
price are competitive
against two separate 600-
fill, 15F down bags. Weve
hauled it on a 21-day trek
along Nepals Annapurna
Circuit when temps dipped
to 0F (thanks shared
body heat!) and a 22-mile
trip on Kauais Kalalau
Trail when nights were a
balmy, humid 72F (we
slept on top of the bag).
We each get our own
hood, draft collar, and zip-
per so we can control our
own tempsa good thing,
since I sleep cold and he
sleeps hot. $400; 5 lbs. 4
oz.; 15F; bigagnes.com
Reader service #107
Katy Welter
Becca Stubbs, 22
Boulder, CO
Katy Welter, 31,
Chicago, IL
Lisa Chu, 37,
Half Moon Bay, CA
xxxxx xxxxxx
P
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Function over fashion, by a hair 56 percent of you wear convertible (zip-off) hiking pants.
Gear
Basecamp
[all-purpose multitool]
Leatherman Wave
Fully loaded with 17 tools,
this do-everything gizmo
has been in my pocket
for the past eight years.
It fits in the palm of my
hand and has saved my
butt in countless scenarios
from the dramatic (I once
use it to cut my rope so
I could escape a flash
flood in Zion) to the banal
(opening cans of beans
during a Mexican feast in
West Virginias Otter Creek
Wilderness). The sturdy
needle nose pliers are
great for repairs or just lift-
ing a hot pot off a stove.
And cutting? The 2.9-inch
serrated blade holds its
edge extremely well and
slices through just about
anything (including my
finger, once). $85; 8.5 oz.;
leatherman.com Reader
service #108
Dave Harding
[womens softshell
pants]
Merrell Belay
Ive had a hard time find-
ing the ideal three-season
hiking pant. I want them
light and breathable
enough for strenuous hik-
ing, quick-drying so I can
wear them through show-
ers and streams, tiny-
packing, and tailored to fit
my curvy figure. The Belay
nails all these things.
Made from a stretchy and
rugged nylon, the pocket
layout is convenient but
not fussy, with two zip-
pered hand pockets and a
single thigh cargo pocket.
The waistband is clean
and unfettered with low-
profile belt loops, so it
never irritated me under
a packs hipbelt. $85; 9.5
[versatile layering piece]
Patagonia R1
Hoody
Perfect as a winter baselayer
or fall midlayer, the R1 has
seen me though so many
adventures Ive lost count.
Ive worn it ski touring in
Utah, climbing in Kentuckys
Red River Gorge, and hik-
ing through West Virginias
Dolly Sods Wilderness. The
Polartec Power Dry has a
gridded inner surface: Deep
channels vent and breathe
when Im sweating, yet trap
warm air when Im chilled.
I love the balaclava-style
hood, the trim, long cut, and
the thumb loops, all of which
make the R1 feel like a part
of my body. $159; 12.8 oz.
(ms L); patagonia.com
Reader service #109
Dave Harding
READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
oz. (4); ws 2-16; merrell
Chelsea Griffie
Support A stiff TPU instep
shank and a super-durable
EVA midsole combined with
high-cut, amply padded
ankles kept my feet armored
and supported, even when
I was lugging a 35-pound
pack off-trail (they can eas-
ily handle up to 50 pounds).
Traction Multi-directional
lugs and a pronounced heel
brake deliver reliable grip on
all surfaces: slickrock, scree
slopes, wet rock, and muddy
wash-outs.
Fave feature The weather-
proofing. During one per-
petually rainy weekend on
Hatcher Pass, my feet were
the only part of me that
remained warm and dry,
thanks to the minimally-
seamed, all-leather upper
and Gore-Tex lining.
Fit bonus Available in 3
widths. Tip: Medium feels a
little narrow in the forefoot.
$189; 3 lbs. 8 oz. (13); ms
7-14; vasque.com Reader
service #111
EVAN PEDERSON, 30
Hometown Palmer, AK
Day job Manager, Anchor-
age Apple Store
[big trip boots]
Vasque St. Elias
GTX
Why I love them Theyre
light, comfortable out of
the box, and they handled
everything Alaska threw
at them: ice and snow
on Matanuska Glacier,
deep mud in the Chugach,
slippery boulders at Reed
Lakes, and countless
stream crossings on the
Gold Mint Trail.
YOU COULD
BE NEXT!
Become part of our reader gear testing team and get a
chance to join us January 20-25, 2014, at the Outdoor
Retailer Winter Market, the countrys largest outdoor
trade show. Apply at backpacker.com/geartester.
Deadline is December 15, 2013.
WHO MAKES THE BEST SLEEPING BAGS?
16%
14%
11%
9%
8% 8%
34%
Marmot Western
Mountain-
eering
Big
Agnes
Mountain
Hardwear
The
North
Face
Feathered
Friends
All
others
BOOZE,
BEER,
AND WINE
of you believe these are the best
luxuries worth packing.
16%
70%
ACCORDI NG TO YOU
Chelsea Grife, 46,
Pasadena, CA
Dave Harding, 29,
Frederick, MD
of you hike with trekking poles.
HOW DO YOU TREAT
YOUR BACKCOUNTRY
WATER?
Pump filter
48%
Gravity filter
18%
UV
15%
Chemicals
10%
Boiling
6%
I dont
3%
xxxxx xxxxxx 200 pounds Heaviest pack carried by Jeff Bishop from Louisville, KY, when he was serving in the Army.
[comfortable down bag]
Vaude
Cheyenne 500
Why I love it With a roomy
shoulder cut, a silky poly-
ester liner, and a hood that
opens flat or cinches down
close, the Cheyenne is
supremely comfortable for
mild-weather backpacking
trips and car camps.
Warmth I sleep cold, but this
bag kept me toasty down to
40F in Zion National Park
without my standard beanie
and extra layers.
Packability The less expen-
sive 500-fill down isnt as
light or packable as higher fill
powers; the included com-
pression sack gets it down to
10 by 8 inches. $190; 3 lbs. 1
oz.; 35F; lib ertymountain
JON BAUSMAN, 28
Hometown
Indianapolis, IN
Day job Digital
consultant
[ultralight puffy]
MontBell U.L.
Down Jacket
Low weight, high warmth.
These are the two reasons I
love this jacket. It insulates
like a heavyweight fleece
jacket, yet the U.L. Down
weighs less than a deli
sandwich and packs just as
small, thanks to a simple
design and 800-fill down.
The sewn-through baffles
also save weight, since there
are no internal mesh bar-
riers holding the down in
place, though cold can sneak
through the seams if its
pushed beyond its intended
use. The 15-denier Ballistics
Airlight nylon shell has fibers
that have been heated and
stretched to increase the
fabrics strength and water-
and wind-resistance. Ive
worn it in weather ranging
from a hailstorm in New
Mexicos Wheeler Peak
Wilderness to some nasty
nights camped at 11,000
feet in Colorados Holy Cross
Wilderness. The slim fit lay-
ers well under a rainshell and
over a midweight baselayer.
My only gripe: I wished for a
longer hem to keep out chilly
breezes. $155; 7 oz.; mont-
bell.us Reader service #113
Scott Rohrig
[reliable dry bag]
Sea to
Summit eVAC
Compression Dry
Sack
After years of double-
bagging leaky trash bags,
wrestling with pack covers,
and nesting zip-tops in the
soggy Northwest rainforests
outside Seattle, its safe
to say that I obsess about
waterproofing. This simple
piece of equipment gives
me peace of mind in any
weather, despite all the
crazy things I do (like use my
backpack as a body float
in an Arizona slot canyon).
Ive even used it as a stand-
alone, minimalist summit
pack on many Colorado
Fourteeners. Its made of
seam-taped, waterproof
nylon with a breathable
eVent bottom to release air
for better compression. I
bought mine six years ago
after it won a 2007 Editors
Choice Award. Its still going
strong and comes with me
on every trip. $25-$45; .6
oz. (6L); 5 sizes, 6L-30L;
seatosummit.com Reader
service #112
Becca Stubbs
Gear
Basecamp READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
Scott Rohrig, 40,
Denver, CO
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21%
All other
brands
WHO MAKES THE BEST PACKS?
33%
Osprey
WATER BOTTLE OR HYDRATION SYSTEM?
water bottle (43%) hydration system (57%)

WOOL OR SYNTHETIC BASE LAYERS?
synthetic (56%) wool (44%)

CANISTER OR LIQUID FUEL STOVE?
liquid fuel (27%) canister (73%)
SYNTHETIC OR DOWN SLEEPING BAG?
down (73%) synthetic (27%)

SKIING OR SNOWSHOEING?
skiing (37%) snowshoeing (63%)

COMPASS OR GPS?
compass (60%) GPS (40%)
ACCORDI NG TO YOU
15%
Gregory
7%
Arcteryx
6%
Kelty
5%
Deuter
5%
Granite
Gear
5%
REI
3%
ULA
Equipment
DO YOU PREFER
SAGE ADVICE FOR NEWBIES
After every trip, theres one thing I wish I had
brought: less. Tim Underhill, Muncie, IN
OUTDOOR CRED
When the weekend forecast calls for mega rain,
67%
of you go anyway.
WHO MAKES THE
BEST OUTDOOR APPAREL?
23%
15%
14%
9%
7%
4%
3%
25%
P
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o
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a
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a
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R
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a
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c
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C
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u
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b
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F
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s
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A
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c
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A
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o
t
h
e
r
s
DOWNLOAD OUR
BEST STORIES
TO YOUR
COMPUTER,
TABLET, OR
SMARTPHONE!
BACKPACKER eBooks!
AVAILABLE ON
BACKPACKER.COM
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u
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adver tisement
Bergans Glittertind Backpack
Cover longer distances, with heavier
loads, on any terrain and have the
greatest freedom of movement of
any backpack on the market. The
award winning Glittertind backpack
features the revolutionary SPINE
carrying system that follows all
of your body's contradictory
movements simultaneously,
providing amazing comfort
regardless of the length of your trip.
Bergans.com
Exciting G
ift Ideas to
Inspire You &
Yours
to G
et O
utside This
H
oliday Season
2
01
3
H
O
L
ID
A
Y
GIFT GUIDE
Chaos Headwear and CTR
Chaos Thermal Regulation offers
the Bando in the Glacier Collection
for the perfect stocking stoker!
This style, as well as various cold
weather protection gear can
be found at our site in technical
fabrics, colors and straight up
black. Visit ChaosHats.com for
a multitude of choices and local
retailers. 970.879.1193
By Chaos Headwear
Crazy Creek Air Chair
Plus
Crazy Creek's Air Chair Plus is the Ultimate Sit/Sleep
Combination! Offering comfort and convenience, the chair
incorporates a unique dual-chamber air pad, providing a
cushy, adjustable camp seat that can quickly convert to a
full-length sleeping mattress for a comfortable nights rest.
Handy attached straps for compact roll-up.
CrazyCreek.com
Mens and Womens
Downtek
Shovelhead Jacket
After years of innovating our use and
understanding of down insulation
we are happy to introduce Big
Agnes mid-weight down jackets.
700 ll of owntek water-repellent
material insulates vertical bafes
that maximize body temperature
efciency. The down is held in place
by Insotect Flow Gates to keep the
insulation from shifting and causing
cold zones. With hood (Shovelhead)
or available without (Hole in the Wall).
BigAgnes.com
$250; 13.3oz;
m's S-XXL, w's XS-XL
Campmor
We are more than just a camping store. Huge
selection of gear and clothing. One-stop
shopping for the camper, backpacker, runner,
triathlete, climber, paddler, adventurer, world-
traveler on your holiday list, all at the lowest
prices. All the brands you love. Campmor.com
CamRanger, an Outdoor Photographer Magazine award
winning igital SLR camera accessory, provides advanced
wireless control of a camera from a smartphone or tablet. The
CamRanger (3.6 oz.) allows remotely changing settings and
focus, viewing photos, HR, easy night shots, self-portraits,
and even taking photos of your tent at night from your
sleeping bag. CamRanger is an American company developed
and founded by backpackers. $299 CamRanger.com
adver tisement
GRANITE ROCX the tahoe
The tahoe is a unique backpack and cooler system
designed to carry any type of folding chair. The
main compartment of the backpack is 35 liters
with an adjustable sliding chest strap and padded
adjustable waist straps. The 12 can, insulated cooler
detaches from the backpack to be used alone.
GraniteRocx.com
The Ultimate Gift for the Solo Backpacker
Proven reliable year round since 1995, the Hilleberg
Akto is the ideal tent for the solo backpacker who
wants a room of his (or her) own. All-season tough,
remarkably roomy and impressively quick to pitch,
the Akto weighs in at just 3 lbs 12 oz.
Hilleberg.com
ENO DoubleNest Hammock
The original parachute hammock, the DoubleNest is made of soft,
breathable nylon, sets up in seconds and packs down to the size of a
grapefruit. With a 400 lb capacity yet weighing in at only 20 ounces,
the DoubleNest is portable comfort at its nest.
Visit EnoNation.com to learn more and to nd a dealer near you.
LifeStraw Personal Water Filter
LifeStraw is the award-winning ultra-
light personal water lter, designed
to quickly provide you with safe, clean
drinking water. Simply suck through the
straw to lter your water drink out of
your bottle or straight from a stream.
BuyLifeStraw.com
Kahiltna 28
Our Glacier packs represent
a series of full-featured
technical hiking packs that
can double as everyday
working daypacks. Named
after glaciers, which are
the harbingers of climate
change, they serve as a daily
reminder to ride to work,
walk to the store and unplug.
GraniteGearStore.com
David Virtue
Rugged mountains, rolling deserts, tropical
islandsDavid Virtue precious metal rings let you
express your active outdoor lifestyle and wear it
wherever your travels take you. Mens and womens
styles all made in USA from reclaimed yellow, white
and red gold, and platinum.
DavidVirtue.com
FITS
Socks
Engineered to perfectly mold to
the shape of your foot and leg.
FITS
are made with superior

bers to ensure the perfect t
and maximum performance and
comfort. 100% FITS Guarantee.
Made in the USA.
FitsSock.com
adver tisement
TIKKA
RXP
Thanks to Petzl's Reactive Lighting technology, the
TIKKA
RXP analyzes incoming light and then

instantly and automatically adjusts brightness and
beam pattern. The result? A smarter, more powerful,
more efcient headlamp. Welcome to the next
generation of hands-free lighting.
Petzl.com
Osprey
Part of the new Portal Series
from Osprey Packs, the Pixel
Port is a ap-style daypack
designed for all of your 21st
century technology needs.
This pack offers optimum
organization, sleek styling
and includes the Port

window allowing use of a
tablet without even removing
it from the pack.
OspreyPacks.com
Rite in the Rain
Rite in the Rain all-weather journals
have protected eld notes from Mother
Nature without offending her, for almost
a century. The patented, wood-based,
recyclable paper is made in the USA and
works great. Many styles to choose from
including the 1735-KITnotebook, all-
weather pen and cover. $29.25
RiteintheRain.com
H
O
L
IDAY GIFT GU
ID
E
RIBZ Granite Series
RIBZ gives easy access to your most critical gear and
provides increased comfort by redistributing your
weight. Compatible with any backpack or without,
the RIBZ system is designed for serious adventurists
seeking fast access to gear and improved mobility
through better balance and comfort.
RibzWear.com
MSRP $64.95
Marshall WP
Mens and womens Marshall WP tackles
the weather and the trails with its KEEN dry
waterproof, breathable membrane. It features
a durable, high-rebound PU midsole and solid
rubber high-traction outsole. The Marshall WP is
the perfect shoe for your next outdoor adventure.
KeenFootwear.com
Mountainsmith
The Mountainsmith Spectrum
camera backpack helps ensure
you nail your next shot from
travel to trail. Designed
with National Geographic
contributing photographer,
Andy Mann, the new 2014 line
of camera packs and accessories
from Mountainsmith isForged
For Life. Available exclusively
at REI stores and REI.com this
holiday season.
Now With More Traction
MICROspikes
traction now boasts twelve

3/8 inch hardened stainless steel spikes on
all adult sizes that dig in and grab icy terrain.
The tough elastomer harness stretches over
footwear to provide a secure t without the
need for buckles or straps. 866.330.8030
Kahtoola.com
adver tisement
SierraTradingPost.com
SAVE UP TO 70% EVERY DAY
WINTER 2013
STAY WARM WITH AN EXTRA 25% OFF SELECT BASE LAYERS!
See page 9 for details
Sierra Trading Post
Save up to 70% on gifts for everyone on
your list at SierraTradingPost.com! Shop
footwear, apparel, outdoor gear, home
goods and more from hundreds of famous
name brands. Enter keycode BP25 at
checkout and receive an extra 25% off
your order! Expires 1/15/14.
SierraTradingPost.com
Travelwash
This product is such a great idea and so simple to use
the perfect Christmas present. Just add water, detergent
and some old fashioned hard yakka and your clothes are
clean anytime, anywhere! The lightweight kit includes,
Washbag, Clothes line, Detergent, Towel and Laundry
Bag. Price $39.95. Perfect for any outdoor traveller.
TravelWashBag.com
Solo Stove Wood Burning
Backpacking Stove
Stop buying heavy and expensive
fuel canisters! Cook your meals with a
handful of twigs. Solo Stove weighs 9
ounces, features a unique double wall
construction, produces less smoke and
packs inside a pot. More fun, less weight!
SoloStove.com
Selk'bag
The new Patagon is designed for
even greater mobility and comfort
by letting you remove the bootees
and wear your own footwear! Our
most technical ripstop nylon shell
wraps you in an anatomical t while
insulating you with our warmest
technology ever: Krekran
.
SelkBagUSA.com
Rogue Industries
Introducing the Compass Navigator Wallet.
Durable Katahdin Canvas designed for rugged
outdoor use. Integrated high quality liquid lled
compass. Leather interior and trim. Unconditionally
guaranteed for two years. 800.786.1768
Rogue-Industries.com
The Wrist ID Slim only $17.99
It is the slimmest ID in our lineup. This pint-sized fella may be
small in stature, but he is jam-packed with peace of mind.
RoadID.com
800.345.6336
Wigwam
Merino Trailblaze Pro offers Wigwams Ultimax Pro
technology and features performance fiber, Dri-
release TENCEL, which wicks moisture away keeping
feet dry and blister free. Wigwam socks are American
made and offer a two-year comfort guarantee. MSRP $16
Wigwam.com
IN
YOUR
DREAMS
Whats your ultimate backcountry quest? Tats what we asked readers last year as we oered six
BACKPACKER-led, all-expenses-paid, dream trips, each with a dierent theme. We received
hundreds of entries from all over the country, but in each category, what distinguished the
winners were the stories they spun for us about why this trip, this place, this journey was
important. Read on to see what happened when we brought those dreams to life.
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SUMMIT BID: AFTER A BRIEF STAY IN
CAMP MUIR, OUR WINNERS STARTED
UP MT. RAINIER AROUND MIDNIGHT,
AND HAD PASSED THE ROUTES
DISAPPOINTMENT CLEAVER SECTION
BY SUNRISE AT 5:30 A.M.
IN YOUR DREAMS
YOU WILL:
1. FEEL LIKE A KID.
In the backcountry, theres no pressure
to act your age. Plunge into an ice-cold
lake, lay barefoot on a soft carpet of grass,
and stay up late playing card games. It
was incredibly freeing to escape the pres-
sures of adulthood and unleash my inner
child, our winner Kelli Bullard says.
2. LIVE SIMPLY.
Unplugging from phones, email, and
the internet recharged my senses,
Bullard says. For fve whole days, my re-
sponsibilities were simple: put on a pack,
walk, and immerse myself in the sights,
sounds, and smells of nature.

3. FIND ITS NEVER TOO LATE TO
LEARN SOMETHING NEW.
Bullard had long since put her hiking
hobby on the back burner to focus on
raising a family. But last summer, she
discovered her interest never went totally
cold. She read the memoir Wild, by
Cheryl Strayed, who walked more than
1,000 miles of the Pacifc Crest Trail
without any backpacking experience.
Te story prompted Bullard to ask for
our help to try backpacking for the frst
timeand the PCT. I want to be an in-
spiration to other women of my genera-
tion, she wrote in her entry. Te ones
who are longing for something more and
dont know where to start.
4. LEARN HOW TO PEE OUTSIDE.
Dont laugh, guysuntil a woman
perfects her technique, this can be an
intimidating task. But once she masters
the skill, its incredibly liberating, both
in the woods and beyond.

5. MAKE NEW FRIENDS.
Our frst evening in camp, we were
greeted by a group of curious chipmunks
and a marmot that devoured wildfowers
by the score, Bullard recalls. Te next
morning, we discovered the fresh paw
prints of coyotes that passed through our
campsite to reach the lake. And on our
last night, we watched two playful deer
chase each other around the edge of our
campsite for at least an hour.
6. EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS.
Turns out theres a vast, solitude-flled
universe beyond the roads that Bullard
didnt know about. Te only way to ex-
perience a spectacular, tucked-away place
like Tousand Island Lake is to hike the
8.5 miles to get there.

7. DISCOVER THE WORLDS MOST
REFRESHING DRINK.
Reflling her bottle from the trips frst
ice-cold stream and purifying it on the
spot with a SteriPEN, Bullard was al-
most giddy. I thought to myself: So this
is how water is supposed to taste! It was the
freshest, most delicious, and satisfying
beverage Ive ever had.
8. SAVE MONEY ON VACATIONS.
Tent versus fve-star hotel? Now, its a
10
WAYS
YOUR FIRST
BACKPACKING
TRIP WILL
CHANGE YOUR
LIFE FOREVER.
BY KIM PHILLIPS
It took 40 years, but our winner
nally got her wish.
Teme category:
My First ____
Winner KELLI BULLARD, 54,
communications director at Trinity Fellow-
ship Church in Amarillo, TX
Guest Her friend and hiking partner Kellie
Luetkahans, 52, of Canyon, TX
Where to Thousand Island Lake via the
Pacic Crest Trail, Inyo National Forest,
California, July 18 to 22, 2013
Winning pitch Bullard had camped as a
child but not since; we liked the idea of
helping her rekindle the ame. Turning 50
was a wake-up call for me. Backpacking was
something I always wanted to try, and I real-
ized that I had to make it a priority or else it
was never going to happen.
P
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S
no-brainer. Each night in the tent, I
could hardly sleep from staring at the
twinkling stars, Bullard says.I could
hear coyotes howling in the distance, the
moon shone down like a night light, and
the fresh mountain air was intoxicating.

9. SET NEW GOALS.
Bullard has already started planning a
multiday rafting trip, which will involve
camping under the stars. To ensure that
she makes time for more outdoor pur-
suits, she joined the Venus Girls, a local
womens hiking group that has several
trips planned for summer 2014 in New
Mexico and Colorado. Its always easier
to stay motivated when youre part of a
group, she says. And as an added bo-
nus, I get to make new friends who share
my new passion for the outdoors.
10. DISCOVER YOU REALLY DO
HAVE WHAT IT TAKES.
Everyone has challenges that could
keep them of the trailwhether it be
busy schedules or injuries. In the weeks
preceding her trip, Bullard had to decide
if a personal battle with back pain and
joint degeneration was going to force
her to cancel. It was a difcult deci-
sion, but ultimately, it all came down
to one thing: How badly did I want it?
she says. Te joy of accomplishing my
goal and gazing upon crystal-clear lakes
ringed by granite peaks far outweighed
any amount of discomfort I endured to
get there. Worth it? I would do it all
again in a heartbeat.
Do it From Agnew Meadows trailhead, hike north-
west on the PCT 8.5 miles to pitch your tent on
Thousand Island Lakes northern edge. Hike out
on the John Muir Trail southeast past Garnet and
Shadow Lakes; close the 20-mile loop on the River
Trail. Trailhead 37.682858, -119.084696; 9 miles
west of Mammoth Lakes on Agnew Meadows Rd.
Permits Required. Reserve at bit.ly/InyoPermit ($5/
person reservation fee, plus $6/group). Map Tom
Harrison Devils Postpile ($10; tomharrisonmaps.com)
Gear Bear canisters required. Shuttle Mammoth All
Weather Shuttle (MAWS): $120/six people; (760)
709-2927; mawshuttle.com Lodging Fuel up pre-
hike with the hearty, free continental breakfast at
the Alpenhof Lodge ( ). Post-hike: Soak in the
hot tub at Sierra Nevada Resort, then grab their free
shuttle to the airport (thesierranevadaresort.com).
Season June to September Contact (760) 873-
2400; fs.usda.gov/inyo/
TOP LEFT: WINNER KELLI BULLARD (RIGHT) AND GUEST KELLIE LUETKAHANS, SEEN HERE AT THEIR BASECAMP ON THE
NORTHERN SHORES OF THOUSAND ISLAND LAKE, LOVED RELAXING IN THE BACKCOUNTRY ON THEIR FIRST-EVER BACKPACK-
ING TRIP. ABOVE: THEY DAYHIKED TO VIEWS OF THE TOWERING RITTER RANGE ON DAY THREE.
IN YOUR DREAMS
Buddy Story
Winner TRACY SCHMIDT,
30, Truckee, CA
Guest Her adventure partner, U.S. Army Sergeant David Mott,
28
Where to A guided trip for two up Mt. Rainier, WA (plus all gear
rental), courtesy of Peter Whittaker and RMI Expeditions,
July 8 to 13, 2013
Winning pitch Reunite these hiking palsseparated by Motts
tour of duty in Afghanistanto climb the peak he admired
from his base at Fort Lewis, WA
FRIENDS
IN HIGH
PLACES
Mt. Rainier lled the view from David Motts
army base. His best friend got him to the top.
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From the moment this pair met in Lake
Tahoe in 2005, Tracy Schmidt and David Mott
became an inseparable adventure duountil
Mott joined the Army in 2008. Since then,
most of their communication has been via
chat or text message. This spring, we gave
them something new to talk about:
FACEBOOK CHAT, MARCH 14
Tracy Schmidt I just entered an essay contest
for the 2 of us to win a paid trip [up Rainier]
from Backpacker magazine.*
David Mott What do i have to do?
TS Cross your fingers

FACEBOOK CHAT, APRIL 8
TS Motttt!!!!!! We won! Guided trip up Mt.
Rainier!!!
DM F*** Ya !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!! such a big smile right now!
TS I better make it up that damn mountain!
DM I will carry you up if you want me to :)
SCHMIDTS JOURNAL, JULY 8
So good to be reunited with Mott. Glad I got
to see Fort Lewis. Grandpa was there long ago
and now my BFF is there too.
JULY 12
I never thought I would get the willies from
walking over a crevasse, but to be looking
down into an open, icy hole that goes hun-
dreds of feet down, and then stepping over
the crack, was just plain mental.
JULY 13
MOUNT RAINIER: Conquered! I should stop
saying conquered, thoughnobody really
conquers a mountain, it just gives you a
summit pass whenever it chooses.
TEXT MESSAGE, JULY 21
TS I was just reading RMIs blog... A few days
after us, groups had to turn around before
summit because a snow bridge collapsed... and
another day lightning storms. We got lucky!!
DM We are lucky for sure.
Do it Unless you have mountaineering chops, hire
a guide to tackle this 14,411-footer. RMI Expeditions
offers trips from $1,000 for a four-day summit bid,
or from $1,800 for a six-day trip with more moun-
taineering lessons. Meal plans and gear rental avail-
able. (888-892-5462; rmiguides.com) Lodging
Whittakers Motel & Historic Bunkhouse, just
outside the park, provides classic, no frills accom-
modations for staging before and after your sum-
mit bid. (Dorm beds from $35, private rooms from
$65; 360-569-2439; whittakersbunkhouse.com)
Season May to August Permits $30 climbing pass
required Contact (360) 569-HIKE; nps.gov/mora
*
Messages have been lightly edited for clarity.
LEFT: TRACY SCHMIDT (FOREGROUND)
AND DAVID MOTT (IN ORANGE) TRA-
VERSE ONE OF THE MOST DANGEROUS
PARTS OF THE ROUTE, WHERE BOTH
OVERHEAD ICEFALL AND UNSTABLE
FOOTING THREATEN.
BELOW: MOTT AND SCHMIDT AT THE
SUMMIT IN WHITEOUT CONDITIONS
AFTER CROSSING THE CRATER TO THE
PEAKS HIGH POINT.
IN YOUR DREAMS
OUR PULSES RACE as we catch a
glimpse of an ancient wall beyond
the clif brink above us. We scramble
up a large boulder pile to access the
sandstone rampart, and for a moment
we feel like Bingham spotting Machu
Picchu, Schliemann digging up Troy,
Carter opening King Tuts tomb.
Immaculately laid blocks, punctu-
ated by a series of windows, run in a
line against the clif. Te ruin appears
squashed between its bedrock founda-
tion and a shaded overhang that acts
as roof and as awning for a front porch
with hundred-mile views from the
Abajo Mountains to the San Juan River.
In some ways, this thousand-year-old
Ancestral Puebloan ruin is just a series
of tiny, blocky rooms with all the ar-
chitectural artistry of a strip mall. But
it sits atop an isolated butte, at the far
end of a slickrock peninsula. Its like a
house perched atop a huge ice cream
cone set on a giants diving boardall
surrounded by the striated red rock
canyons of Cedar Mesa in southern
Utah. Te setting, the shaded breezes,
our fush of success, the evocative call
of a long vanished cultureit all com-
bines to make the experience magical.
Te three of us stand frozen, taking it
in. My companions Lou
Ann Johnson and her hus-
band Martya registered
nurse and a sherifs dep-
uty, respectivelyradiate
an aura of quiet reverence.
Teyre long-time fans of
Southwest archaeology,
with equally long resu-
ms as backpackers, para-
medics, and park rangers,
in places from Yosemite
to the Grand Canyon.
Tanks to the Girl Scouts,
Lou Ann has been a back-
packer since age 15.
Ive been fascinated by Southwest
ruins ever since a family vacation to
Mesa Verde when I was a teenager, she
explains. Te Ancestral Puebloan had
an advanced culture in many ways, but
because they had no written language,
all we have are their art and ruins to
give us insight into their world. For this
trip, she was inspired by reading David
Robertss book, Sandstone Spine, about
backpacking the length of Comb Ridge,
a narrow belt of rock that was a center
of ancestral Pueblo, Zuni, and Hopi cul-
tures 2,500 to 900 years ago. I wanted
to see places that werent often experi-
enced, on a challenging trip.
Of course, virtually every ruin and
rock art panel in the Southwest was ac-
tually discovered long ago, either by
Native Americans from later Navajo and
Paiute cultures or early Anglo explorers.
Yet, as Proust once noted, Te voyage
of discovery is not in seeking new land-
scapes, but in having new eyes. A com-
forting salve, but is it true?
We car camp to explore the northerly
sections of Comb Ridge and adjacent Ce-
dar Mesa on a series of six dayhikes (that
helps us avoid the problems of scarce wa-
ter and high temps, since schedules forced
us to come in mid-June, rather than the
optimal times in spring or
fall). Te day after we fnd
the immaculate ruins, we
search for one I once spot-
ted from a distance de-
cades ago. After following
a heading through scrub
forest, we scramble down
an overgrown gully, then
traverse a long, sketchy slab
to a crumbling ruinjust
several wall remnants and
four collapsed kivas, now
sunken pits of rubble. Still,
its every bit as evocative
as the immaculate citadel
In Search Of
Winner LOU ANN
JOHNSON, 62,
of Buena Vista, CO
Guest Her husband
Marty, 54
Where to Comb Ridge,
Utah, June 19 to 22, 2013
Winning pitch John-
sons proposed trek
offered the perfect
balance of mystery,
romance, and a chance
for success.
BY STEVE HOWE
LAND OF
SECRETS
Our winners discover ancient Puebloan ruins.
wed visited yesterday. Its really about
walking hillsides for hours, not fnding a
thing, then fnally getting your reward,
Marty says. Like on a climb: the more dif-
fcult it is, the more rewarding the sum-
mitonce you get there.
Its an adventurers irony that the
more a place or goal is known, visited,
or attained, the less desirable it becomes.
We want difculty, but not so much that
our goal is impossible. We want secrecy,
but not so much that we cant fnd what
were looking for. Man never knows
what he wants, Swiss philosopher Henri
Amiel wrote. He aspires to penetrate
mysteries and as soon as he has, he wants
to reestablish them.
Now, strolling through these remote
ruins, dizzyingly high above the canyon
foor, Lou Ann gives voice to further
questions: How did they get water up
here? Who were they defending against?
What was it like to live in this commu-
nity, be up here in a wild storm, witness
spats and jealousies? New mysteries re-
place old ones, and suddenly were see-
ing with new eyesagain.
Do it Because of the sensitive nature of the ruins,
were not divulging explicit details on this trips
location. There are no guidebooks to the area.
Season Spring and fall Map Trails Illustrated Grand
Gulch Cedar Mesa Plateau ($12; natgeomaps.com)
Contact (435) 587-1500; blm.gov/utah/monticello
LEFT: LOU ANN AND MARTY JOHNSON SCRAMBLE UP A CLIFF BAND IN NEAR 100F TEMPS WHILE ROUTEFINDING TO A RUIN ON DAY FOUR. ABOVE: THIS REMOTE, SELDOM-VISITED LEDGE WEST
OF COMB RIDGE CONTAINS FOUR KIVAS PLUS ADOBE-COATED RUINS SUCH AS THIS WALL REMNANT, ALL OF WHICH DATE BACK TO ROUGHLY 900 TO 1,150 A.D.
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IN YOUR DREAMS
WHEN YOU GO HIKING with a high
school math teacher, numbers are never
far of. Look at the map, guys, John
Kalicki instructs his students Yusuf Staf-
ford and Victor Morrow as we pause be-
side the trail. How much farther is it?
How fast do you think were going?
Te teens grumble and answer some
of the questions, punt on others. No
WILDERNESS TO
THE nTH DEGREE
Two urban teens and their teacher conquer a Colorado summit.
BY RACHEL ZURER
X
X
=
2
KALICKI-ORGANIZED TRIPS PER
SCHOOL YEAR WITH THE LOCAL
OUTWARD BOUND GROUP
10
STUDENTS PER TRIP
8.5
YEARS
170
AROUND 170* STUDENTS
INTRODUCED TO THE OUT-
DOORS BYAS VICTOR PUTS
ITTHE FUNNY, COOL, BIG,
WHITE GUY IN SCHOOL.
*SOME KIDS GO ON MULTIPLE TRIPS,
SO THE ACTUAL NUMBER IS MORE
LIKE 135.
It seriously doesnt get better
than this, from the non-humid
weather, to scenery, to com-
pany. I know it sounds corny,
but this was truly a dream trip.
John Kalicki
EFFECTIVE OXYGEN CONCENTRATIONS OF AMBIENT AIR:
11,837-FOOT BUCHANAN PASS: 13.3%
PHILADELPHIA, PA: 20.9%
BOULDER, CO: 17.2%
1
HAMMOCK
1
GOLD PAN
1
SOLAR CHARGER
ITEMS BROUGHT AND NOT USED:
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12,279-foot
Sawtooth Peak
11,837-foot
Buchanan Pass
Red Deer Lake
Camp Dick trailhead
On aging: Ill keep backpacking.
Even when Im like 30, Ill keep doing it.
Victor Morrow
matter; we all know why were really here,
tromping past the rushing creeks, wild-
fower meadows, and towering summits
of the Indian Peaks Wilderness area
and it has nothing to do with arithmetic.
For years, Kalicki has been introducing
students at Philadelphias Carver High
School of Engineering and Science to
the outdoors, organizing biannual canoe
and backpacking trips with Outward
Boundand now winning our contest to
take his students farther afeld. Research
shows that 90 percent of adults who par-
ticipate in outdoor recreation got their
start before age 18; Kalicki hopes his ef-
forts are helping create a new generation
of hikers. Plus, there are benefts that go
beyond fresh air and scenery: Wilderness
trips instill confdence and open young
eyes to life-changing possibilities.
So howd it go? Te mosquitoes terror-
ized us, the altitude kicked Kalickis butt,
it rained for eight hours straight on our
third day (unusual for Colorado). But was
it a success? Oh yeah. And in the spirit of
math teachers everywhere, we crunched
some numbers to prove it.
Wild Card
Winner High school stats
teacher JOHN KALICKI,
49, Philadelphia, PA
Guests His students Vic-
tor Morrow, 16, and Yusuf
Stafford, 17
Where to Red Deer Lake,
Indian Peaks Wilderness,
CO, July 10 to 13, 2013
Winning pitch Im
always looking for new
experiences to share with
my students.
TOTAL = 72 HOURS (3 BACKCOUNTRY NIGHTS)
NUMBER OF TIMES
THE BOYS TRIPPED
WHILE HIKING (YES,
THEY COUNTED)
WINNERS CIRCLE (ABOVE): YUSUF STAFFORD (LEFT),
VICTOR MORROW, JOHN KALICKI. BEHIND: THE BOYS CEL-
EBRATE THEIR SUCCESSFUL SUMMIT OF SAWTOOTH PEAK.
SLEEPING
32
HIKING
18.8
BACKCOUNTRY TIME SPENT (IN HOURS):
PLAYING
CARDS
(MAIN
RAINY DAY
ACTIVITY)
10
DODGING THE
MOOSE THAT
INVADED OUR
CAMPSITE
.5
OTHER
10.7
$6,500
COST (TO SCHOOL
AND OUTWARD
BOUND) FOR A
WEEKLONG TRIP
FOR 12 (INCLUDES
CHAPERONES)
$2,073
AMOUNT KALICKI
RAISED FOR THE
PROGRAM BY
RAPPELLING OFF
A LOCAL 22-STORY
BUILDING IN 2012

$1,300
AMOUNT THE
SCHOOL STILL
NEEDS FOR THE
SPRING 2014 TRIP.
DONATE:
CARVERHSES.INFO/
OUTWARDBOUND
*THIS WAS YUSUFS
FIRST-EVER HIKING
TRIP.
VICTOR YUSUF*
213
98
DREAM ON: Download our iPad edition or visit backpacker.com/dreamtrips13 to
see extra photos, interactive maps, and each trips winning essay.

BY PETER RIVES
FAMILY
DRAMA
Two brothers return to the spot
where one almost died.
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Both trips start and end at the
Cosby Campground.
Mouse Creek Falls
thunders down 45 feet.
A short side trail descends to a
legendary swimming hole beneath
6-foot Midnight Hole Falls.
On day six, they fol-
low the Lower Mt.
Cammerer Trail to
traverse the namesake
mountains north flank.
A short side trail climbs Sutton Ridge to
an overlook with views west of Round
Mountain and Threetop Mountain.
Gilliland Creek campsite
4,928-foot Mt. Cammerer
Davenport Gap Shelter
I-40
Cosby Knob Shelter:
first nights target
Nights two and three at Upper Walnut
Bottom campsite
The group descends here via the
Camel Gap Trail to Walnut Bottoms.
The Low Gap Trail meets the AT.
IN YOUR DREAMS
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GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS
NATIONAL PARK
Actual route
Planned route (2010 & 2013)
Park boundary
1 mile
N
J Day three: Dayhike to Gunter Fork Cascades
FULL ROUTE PLAN:
8.1 miles to
Tricorner Knob;
5.4 miles to Pecks
Corner; 10.6 miles
to Campsite 44;
7.8 miles to Laurel
Gap; 9.4 miles to
Cosby Knob; 3.5
miles out.
F
As the group approaches this spot
where Bill never made it last time,
Rives asks him what hes feeling. My
brother is a hero, Bill replies. He
saved my life.
G
Bill is struggling and campsites are
closed; signifcant itinerary changes will
be necessary to complete a circuit.
H
As climbs turn to descents, Bill feels
instantly better.
I
Basecamping allows time to explore
a forest of towering oak, maple, beech,
and poplar beside crystal clear and
churning creeks. Over hot dinner and
around a roaring fre, the brothers
share stories of their love of baseball.
J
Peter and Randy climb to the top of
the 150-foot series of falls, ledges, and
slides while Bill opts to quietly refect
on his journey of the past three years.
K
In a deluge, a rock overhang ofers
shelter for lunch and a nap.
L
Our crew opts to continue on to-
ward camp in the wet conditions.
M
Friendly campground neighbors mar-
vel at the brothers stories while a break
in the weather lets the group dry out.
N
As Bills cold begins to abate, he is
hiking much stronger despite constant
climbing on this section. Te trio
pauses to watch a doe with her fawn
before she bounds into the forest, leav-
ing her baby camoufaged against the
leaf foor.
O
Night fves camp is tucked into the
side of a steep, forested slope.
P
Massive blowdowns and washed-
out trail make sections very dif cult
to pass, but Bill continues to show
improving strength and stamina.
Q
Tey choose the largest streamside
site and enjoy the challenge of emptying
the food bag and refecting around the
campfre on the magnitude of the broth-
ers return to Smokies backpacking.
R
From here its a leisurely stroll to the
car. Tey walk slowly. Te trip has been
a success: It was important for Randy
and Bill to get past that fateful spot, but
it was even more important for them to
return to what they dohiking together
in the mountains they love.
TAKE TWO: BROTHERS RANDY (LEFT) AND BILL MCDANIEL
PREPARE TO SET OUT ON A SEVEN-DAY TREK FROM THE
COSBY CAMPGROUND IN AUGUST 2013, REVISITING THE
SPOT WHERE BILL SUFFERED A HEART ATTACK IN 2010.
THE BACKSTORY:
JULY 19, 2010
A 5:30 P.M. After a long drive from
Missouri, the brothers depart on a
seven-day, 48-mile loop. Bill is unusu-
ally slow up the steep trail.
B 7:45 P.M. Daylight is fading after
just 2 miles of hiking. Bill sends Randy
ahead .3-mile to drop his pack at the
top of the hill. Bill passes out. Ten
minutes later, he regains consciousness.
Feeling stronger, he resumes his ascent.
He suspects heat exhaustion.
C 8:10 P.M. Randy returns to fnd
Bills face bloodied and breathing
labored; Bill soon has a seizure, then
starts to notice pain in his chest. Randy
rigs a tarp and gets Bill comfortable.
D 8:30 P.M. Randy hurries to retrieve
his pack. He follows a trail of chocolate
mints into the brush where he locates
itbear-ravaged. He takes advantage of
brief blips of cell service to leave mes-
sages with family about the emergency.
E 9:30 P.M. Te brothers set up a bivy
on the trail. Meanwhile, Bills wife calls
the park, which dispatches rangers.
1:27 A.M. Two rangers arrive and
provide frst aid. A threatening storm
prevents evacuation.
7:19 A.M. A 10-person litter team be-
gins evacuating Bill. His massive heart
attack requires several surgeries, includ-
ing a heart transplant seven months
later. Te doctor said its a miracle I
survived the night, Bill says.
Trailhead 35.753165, -83.203246; 22 miles east
of Gatlinburg, TN, off Cosby Park Rd. Season
Year-round Map Trails Illustrated Great Smoky
Mountains ($12; natgeomaps.com) Permits
Backcountry reservations required: $3/person/
night Contact (865) 436-1297; nps.gov/grsm
THE NEW STORY:
AUGUST 2013
Bill, Randy, and BACKPACKER
contributor Peter Rives plan a trip to re-
create the brothers 2010 intended route
on the parks northeast side. Conditions
force them to change course, however:
Bear activity has closed several camp-
sites, and Bill isnt quite up to the areas
most rugged climbs, due to a lingering
illness (his transplant meds suppress his
immune system). But thats not what
matters: What matters is the return.
Te truth is, Randy says, once we got
past the point where we were stopped
last time, everything else was gravy.
M
N
Night four: Big Creek
Campground (rest-
rooms and tent-only
sites available)
The group turns left just before the
ranger station to ascend via the sel-
dom traveled Chestnut Branch Trail.
Unnished Business
Winner RANDY MCDANIEL, 56,
of Florissant, MO
Guest His brother Bill, 58
Where to Great Smoky Mountains Na-
tional Park, NC/TN, August 17 to 23, 2013
Winning pitch A heart attack cut the
pairs 2010 Smokies trip short; we took
them back to complete their dream.
IN YOUR DREAMS
SHORE THING: CHRIS MARTIN AND
HIS DAD, JOHN, SEARCH FOR FIRM
SAND ALONG THE WATERLINE.
high tide line, we pitch our tents amid
driftwood tree trunks, with a broad
view of the transition zone between
earth and sea. We can see the Pacifc
swallow Gitchell Creek
up to the middle of the
S when the tide comes
in, and neon orange
starfsh clinging to half-
submerged rocks when
it goes out.
Were just 3 miles
north of the trailhead
at Shelter Cove, with
another 23 miles of wild
coastline between here
and Mattole Creek, but
we dont need to go any
farther to fnd what were after. Its not
only the perfect campsite, the sweet
view, and the sound of the surf as we
drift of to sleep. Like most backpack-
ers, weve come looking
for a challenge, and we
found a bigger test than
most hikers will ever
encounter.
When we put out the
call for the We Shall
Overcome Dream Trip,
we expected plenty of
entries from hikers who
were recovering from in-
juries. But we never ex-
pected Chris Martin. As
a child, the 28-year-old
ALL
HEART
Proving anything is possible on
Californias rugged coast
BY DENNIS LEWON
We Shall
Overcome
Winner CHRIS MARTIN,
28, from Windsor, CA
Guest His father, John
Martin, 61
Where to Lost Coast, CA,
August 10 to 12, 2013
Winning pitch Dialysis
patient goes backpack-
ing for the rst time
GITCHELL CREEK emerges from a nar-
row, rocky canyon on Californias Lost
Coast and swoops across the beach in
a big S curve, then disappears in the
waves breaking on the sand. Above the
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No environment is more demanding - or
less forgiving - than the sea. Fortunately
theres Wengers Sea Force. Equipped
with ultra-resistant gaskets and a knurled,
screw-down crown which protects the
Swiss quartz movement up to 200m, and
a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which
protects it from rocks, sand or coral. Its
ready for service no matter how deep
your adventures might take you.
Sea Force Chrono
WengerNA.com
IN YOUR DREAMS
EMT from Windsor, Cali-
fornia, was diagnosed with a
rare, lifelong kidney disease
called membranoprolif-
erative glomerulonephritis
Type 1. He started dialysis
during his freshman year
in high school; two kid-
ney transplants (the frst
donated by his dad) failed.
At an early age, when most
teens chief bodily concern
is pimples, Chris had to
make a decision: would
he let his illness rule him,
or would he be in charge?
I dont think of myself
as compromised, he says.
Chris became an avid day-
hiker who volunteers at a
local park. Still, at home
he must undergo dialysis
treatment nightly, and that
prevented him from going
backpacking. Until now.
With his doctors help,
Chris devised a plan for
doing manual (perito-
neal) dialysis treatments
in the backcountry on a
three-day trek. The only
catch? Hed need almost
50 pounds of sterile di-
alysate fluid (packaged
in 2-liter bags that hed
flush through his system
using a stomach cathe-
ter). So hed need porters.
We could help with that.
Chris, his dad Johna Sonoma
County search-and-rescue volunteer
who Chris credits with sparking his love
for the outdoorsand three BACK-
PACKER stafers rendezvous at the
Lost Coast in mid-August. Te com-
bination of soft, deep sand and ankle-
turning rocks makes hiking along the
beach here notoriously tough, but thats
a minor challenge, the kind backpack-
ers face all the time. Try doing dialysis
on the trail. By the time we stop to pitch
a tent for a midday treatment, its clear
that, despite the relatively short distance
were covering, Chris is pushing himself
like a thru-hiker on a 40-mile day. My
mind is willing, he says. My body, not
so much.
No matter. Te challenge here, of
course, is not measured by distance
covered or speed achieved. By the time
we arrive at Gitchell Creek and set up
our tents, we already know the trip is
a success. Chris is backpacking. Over
the next two days, well explore far-
ther up the coast, play games of rock
bocce, and see seals bobbing in the Pa-
cifc surf. When I ask Chris to name
his favorite moment, he says, Really?!
Dude, seriously I cant answer this.
Wed be here all day.
Wed be here. In the backcountry.
Watching the sand and surf and proving,
just by our presence here, that wilder-
ness rewards always match the challenge.
Do it Start in Shelter Cove (25 miles west of
Garberville on Briceland Thorn and Shelter Cove
Rds.) and hike north from the Black Sands Beach
trailhead (on Beach Rd.) to do an out-and-back.
Start at the northern Mattole trailhead (almost
2 hours away, end of Lighthouse Rd.) to do a
26-mile point-to-point. Shuttle $200 for two
people; lostcoastshuttle.com Season The Lost
Coast can be hiked year-round, but winter is wet
and cold. Fall offers the best chance of clear
weather. Lodging Spending the night in Shelter
Cove pre- or post-trip? Check out the Inn of the
Lost Coast (innofthelostcoast.com) for its big,
gear-friendly rooms and ocean-view hot tub.
Permits Self-register at the trailhead; bear canis-
ters required. Contact bit.ly/LostCoastBLM
The challenge here

is not measured by
distance covered or
speed achieved.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: CHRIS NEEDED TO DO A FLUID EXCHANGE THREE
TIMES A DAY; JOHN (LEFT) DONATED A KIDNEY TO CHRIS, BUT THE TRANS-
PLANT FAILED; DIALYSATE BAGS CHRIS USES FOR FIELD TREATMENTS.
Thanks to the following sponsors who also helped us make dreams come true: Mountain House foods (mountainhouse.com);
Mazama Bar (mazamabar.com); Bearskin Lodge, Gatlinburg, TN (bearskinlodge.com); Courtyard Boulder (marriott.com)
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REQUIRED BY ACT OF OCTOBER 23,1962:
SECTION 4369, TITLE 39, UNITED STATES CODE,
FILED SEPTEMBER 24, 2013.
BACKPACKERPub#509-490 is published nine times a year, Jan-
uary, March, April, May, June, August, September, October, and
November. Known ofce of pub|ication. 475 Sansome St., Suite
850, San Francisco CA 94111. Headquarters and genera| busi-
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subscription price. $19.98.
1. The names and addresses of the pub|isher, editor and man-
aging editor are. Pub|isher-Jeff Tkach, 2520 55th Street, Suite
210, Bou|der, CO 80301. Editor-Dennis Lewon, 2520 55th Street,
Suite 210, Bou|der, CO 80301. Managing Editor-None.
2. The owner is. Cruz Bay Pub|ishing, Inc., 300 N. Continenta|
B|vd, Suite 650, E| Segundo, CA 90245.
3. The known bondho|ders, mortgagees, and other security
ho|ders owning 1 percent or more of the tota| amount of bonds,
mortgages, and other securities are. None.
Pub|ication of the Statement of Ownership is required.
Will be printed in the January issue of this publication.
Patricia B. Fox, Vice President, Operations 9/24/13
Average no. of copies
each issue during
preceding 12 mos.
Single issue
nearest to |ing
date Nov. 13
A. TOTAL NO. COPIES
(Net Press Run)
398,957 397,126
B. PAID CIRCULATION
1. Mail Subscriptions
3. Sales through
dealers and
carries, street
vendors and
counter sales
199,076
29,494
195,544
33,814
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(Sum of B1 and B3)
228,570 229,358
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DISTRIBUTION
1. Outside-County Copies
4. Outside the Mail 74,515
2,702
73,307
2,341
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RATE DISTRIBUTION
(Sum of D 1-4)
77,217 75,648
F. TOTAL DISTRIBUTION
(Sum of C & E)
305,787 305,006
G. COPIES NOT DISTRIBUTED 93,170 92,120
H. TOTAL
(Sum of F & G)
398,957 397,126
I. PERCENT PAID AND/OR
REQUESTED CIRCULATION
74.75% 75.20%
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County of Inyo
For ouldoors
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Plan the Vacation
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Nominate a hero Let us know about your favorite inspirational tale of recovery, achievement, or service at heroes@backpacker.com.
Heroes
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BACKPACKER (ISSN 0277-867X) is published nine times a year (January, March, April, May, June, August, September, October, and November) by Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc., 475 Sansome St., Suite
850, San Francisco, CA 94111; subscriptions are $19.98 per year in the U.S., $29.98 in Canada, $41.98 elsewhere (surface mail). Periodicals postage paid at San Francisco, CA and additional mailing
offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BACKPACKER, PO Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. GST #R122988611. BACKPACKER publications, including GearFinder, Waypoints,
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READERS
CHOICE
AWARDS
In June, this team, led by the
National Outdoor Leadership
School, set out to become the
first all-black group to summit
20,237-foot Denali. They hope
their role-modeling might
help correct the striking lack
of African Americans involved
in outdoor pursuits. We want
everyone, particularly people
of color, to feel they have a
place in the outdoors, says
team member Erica Wynn, 22,
of Queens, New York.
On summit day, they were
caught in a lightning storm
at 19,600 feet, and turned
around just hours from the
top. It was the right thing
to do, Wynn says. After 21
days on the peak, the crew
is now sharing the experi-
ence via presentations at
schools and YMCAs nation-
wide.
TAKE IT FROM ME A simple
way to advocate for diversity
in the outdoors: share videos
of professional athletes of
color, Scott Briscoe, 41, San
Francisco, CA
Expedition Denali team, ages 19 to 57 Cashea
Smart, 25
This trail-tough
cancer survivor
dreams of regain-
ing her park
ranger career.
Michael Phipps, 53
In 2008, 20-year-
old Cashea Smart
scored her dream
job as a full-time,
permanent inter-
pretive ranger (at a
national cemetery
in Georgia). Even as
a kid, she wanted
to be a ranger; in
high school she
worked on trail
crews in three
national parks.
But a month
into her new gig,
she was diagnosed
with a rare blood
cancer. She went
through two rounds
of chemo, losing
her job when she
ran out of leave.
Now cancer-
free, Smart is
rebuilding the
career her illness
cut short, taking
dozens of classes
on topics like
resource manage-
ment and hiking
as much as she
can. The stronger
she gets, the more
parks she reaches
out to.
TAKE IT FROM ME
Dont let your life
stand still as you
wait on a dream.
Set a tough goal. Train hard.
Collect sponsorships to raise
money for cancer research
and treatment. Thats Team in
Trainings modeland its suc-
cess depends on the support
participants receive. Within
the groups hiking adventure
program, Mike Phipps is a
superstar coach. He has a gift
for getting you on the trail,
says Tara McCarthy, a four-
year participant.
Since 2006, Phipps has
coached 14 teams of up to
30, culminating in adventures
to five national parks and
raising $840,000. He leads
weekly hikes, keeps mem-
bers motivated and on track,
and advises on fundraising
and gearall while working
full-time with the NYPD. He
knows exactly how to make
an individual sport a team
sport, McCarthy says.
TAKE IT FROM ME Your comfort
zone is a beautiful place, but
nothing grows there.
THE TEAM (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT):
STEPHEN DEBERRY, ADINA SCOTT, STEPHEN
SHOBE, BILLY LONG, RYAN MITCHELL, SCOTT
BRISCOE, ERICA WYNN, ROSEMARY SAAL,
TYRHEE MOOR
PHIPPS AT THE
GRAND CANYON IN 2011
We asked readers to nominate
the people who inspire them.
Nine mountaineers hope to inspire kids of color.
This NYPD cop helps train and motivate new hikers.
Twenty-two years after Coomber
(aka 4WheelBob) lost use of
his legs due to osteoporosis, he
continues to answer the call of
adventure in his 25-pound, shock-
absorbing wheelchair. Though he
insists what he does isnt special:
Im just a hikera slow hiker.
In 2006, we featured Coombers
failed first attempt at Californias
14,246-foot White Mountain Peak
(backpacker.com/4wbob); he
summited in 2007. This year, he
attempted the Sierras 11,760-foot
Kearsarge Pass, but had to turn
back at 9,200 feet due to diabetic
complications. That trail and I will
meet again, he says. There arent
many places that determination
wont take me.
TAKE IT FROM ME Dont lament
what you dont have anymore. If life
changes, roll with it.
Bob Coomber, 59
He doesnt let a wheelchair keep him from his next summit.
COOMBER ON THE TRAIL TO
KEARSARGE PASS
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