P53-PE-WS-01A (281111)

1/6 READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

This Product Experience document is a supplement to the Instructions For Use,
which provides feedback from feld experience and tips for using your product.
It is inseparable from the Instructions for use.
IMPORTANT / REMEMBER
Read the instructions for use carefully before looking at the following techniques.
You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions For
Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
Mastering these techniques requires specifc training.
Work with a professional to confrm your ability to perform these techniques safely
and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
FaIlURE To
hEEd anY oF
ThEsE WaRnIngs
MaY REsUlT In sEvERE
InjURY oR dEaTh.
Beginner technique
Technique usable by a trained
practitioner of the activity.
Technique for a certied
practitioner
Technique for a person trained
and certied in the activity.
Expert technique
Technique only for experts
in the activity.
Each piece of information is listed
according to the technical level
required for its application. Respect
your own level when choosing
your techniques.
MICROTRAXION EXPERIENCE
Table of contents
aid / Rescue
Multi-purpose rescue device
downward evacuation:rescue kit
Climbing / Progressing
ascending the rope in self-rescue:take care when approaching the anchor
supplementary information
Meets En12841B (rope clamps) and En12278 (pulleys)
Tests
P53-PE-WS-01A (281111)
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F = 120 daN
L
M = 100 kg
L
Theoretical
force F = M
F = 1,2 M
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
MICRoTRaXIon:rescue device
hauling
Rope clamp
hauling
Upward evacuation
with counterbalance
technique
aid / Rescue
Multi-purpose rescue device
The MICRO TRAXION is effective in rescue situations. Its compactness and light weight allow it to always be carried with you. It has many
possible uses, from self-rescue to helping a partner in difculty.
P53-PE-WS-01A (281111)
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MICRO TRAXION P53
PARTNER P52A
ABSORBICA L57
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
1. hauling kit ready to be attached to
the victim
aid / Rescue
Downward evacuation:rescue kit
Lightweight rescue kit for transferring the victim's weight from his safety system to a secondary rope used for the descent.
Warning: during an accompanied descent rescue, only the aBsoRBICa l57 is approved as an energy absorber for the asaP.
For more details, see the ASAP-specic technical information at www.petzl.com

Thanks to this system, the weight difference between rescuer and victim is not a signicant problem.
Theoretical efciency of the hauling kit:3:1.
Attention: this technique works especially well when the victim's supporting element is static:
a fall onto an energy-absorbing lanyard, for example.
If the victim's support is not static, for example an EN1891 rope, the victim's weight will stretch the support. When hauling with
the rescue kit, the stretch must be taken out of the rope before the victim can be unhooked.

The rescue kit must therefore be equipped with a rope of sufcient length to adapt to the situation.
Examples for a victim suspended on a semi-static rope with an elongation under load of 4%:
- If the victim is 15m from the anchor, the elongation is 0.6m. The rescue kit rope must measure at least 4m (3x60cm to take out the
stretch + 3x50cm for unhooking + margin for the knots).
- If the victim is 50m from the anchor, the elongation is 2m. The rescue kit rope must measure at least 9m In this case, the rescuer
must descend to the victim to attach the rescue kit, then ascend 3m above to start hauling/unhooking.
P53-PE-WS-01A (281111)
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MICRO TRAXION P53
PARTNER P52A
ABSORBICA L57
MICRO TRAXION P53
PARTNER P52A
ABSORBICA L57
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
3. victim loaded onto the rescuer's descender, ready
to descend.
For an accompanied descent, it is necessary to use a braking
carabiner.
This carabiner must be connected to the descender's carabiner.
See the technical information specic to the RIG and the I'D at
www.petzl.com
2. hauling/unhooking the victim
The rescuer should attach himself to the victim as soon as
possible. Unhooking and descent must be done with two points
of attachment between the victim and rescuer (kit + lanyard)
P53-PE-WS-01A (281111)
5/6 READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
Climbing / Progressing
Ascending the rope in self-rescue:take care when approaching the anchor
When ascending rope, it is common to climb the wall instead of the rope when approaching the anchor.
At this moment, even if it is possible to make some climbing moves, the rope must always remain taut between the anchor and the
ascenders to limit the potential fall height.
If the climber neglects taking up slack, just a single step can signicantly increase the fall factor. The consequences of a slip can be
severe, as arriving at the anchor is a time when the climber feels rather "out of the woods."
1m
Fall tests in a self-rescue situation (ascending rope) close to the anchor.
Warning:second ascender and/or self-belay not shown.
1m
0.5m
1m
Harness + dummy
Harness + dummy
Fall at 0.5m from the anchor Fall of 1m at anchor level
dynamic test - fall factor0.5
80-kilo dummy
dynamic test - fall factor0.5
100-kilo dummy
Rope
Rope
Impact force
Impact force
8mm semi-static
10.5mm semi-static
4.3kN
4.3kN
8.1mm dynamic 3.4kN
dynamic test - fall factor1
80-kilo dummy
dynamic test - fall factor1
100-kilo dummy
Rope
Rope
Impact force
Impact force
8mm semi-static
10.5mm semi-static
5.4kN
5.5kN
Sheath cut,
damaged core
8.1mm dynamic 4.2kN
Damaged
sheath
Be careful when approaching the belay anchor, one step is enough to worsen the consequences of a
fall.
In this example, 50cm makes the difference between an "average" and a "severe" fall.
P53-PE-WS-01A (281111)
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supplementary information
Conformity to the requirements of the EN12841 B and EN12278 standards.
The MICRoTRaXIon is certifed to the En567 standard, "mountaineering equipment. rope clamps."
- En12841B:
To the extent that the MICROTRAXION is essentially an emergency ascender, certication to EN12841 typeB "rope adjustment devices
- rope clamp" is not required. Even so, the certication body has performed the tests according to EN12841B and stated that the
MICROTRAXION complies with its requirements. Only the marking and documentation requirements have not been followed.
- En12278:
The MICROTRAXION is not certied to the EN12278 standard (pulleys), due to contradictions between the marking requirements of this
standard, and those required by the "rope clamp" standards.
Even so, the certication body has performed the tests according to EN12278 and stated that the MICROTRAXION complies with its
requirements. Only the marking and documentation requirements have not been followed.
static test - slow pull
En1891 Typea semi-static rope
static test - slow pull
En892 dynamic rope
Rope diameter
Rope diameter
Beginning of sheath damage
Beginning of sheath damage
8mm
8mm
4.6kN
4.5kN
8.5mm
9mm
4.9kN
> 5kN
9mm 4.6kN to 4.8kN
10mm > 5kN
10.5mm > 5kN
11mm > 5kN
The ropes used with the MICROTRAXION can be damaged at loads between 4kN and 5kN (or more) depending on their diameter.
supplementary information
Tests
The following tests were done in labs; they were done on new ropes and devices, but it is impossible to recreate every scenario.
Warning:we did not test every rope on the market; the results of these tests could be different with other types of rope.
The test values are given for information, to give an idea of the loads involved in such situations.
Values recorded during tests with new ropes, certied to current European standards (EN1891 semi-static ropes, EN892 dynamic
ropes).
Warning:older ropes are generally weaker.
Testing done with slow pulls, until the rst signs of rope damage appear. (Maximum load tested = 5kN)
Warning: the rope-damage values, recorded during the dynamic tests (falls/shock loads) are generally lower than with slow-pull:the
frame-loaded ascenders are not designed to hold shock loads.