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#
p
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With the Turk in wartime / by Marmaduke Pickthall.
Pickthall, Marmaduke William, 1875-1936.
London : J. Dent, 1914.
http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc2.ark:/13960/t5bc3xh3j
Public Domain
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not subject to copyright. Users are free to copy, use,
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the authors of individual portions of the work, such
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these portions. Depending on the nature of subsequent
use that is made, additional rights may need to be obtained
independently of anything we can address.
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M
M|


P
1

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3h
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m m
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rMM

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T
T T T M

M M D P T
. . o:
. .
MGM . . M. D T TD.
D T T /
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p
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T T T
P G
T D T . . . . x
PT
......
PT
T M D P . . . .. .12
PT
T G . . . .2
PT
P T . . . . .32
PT
T G . . . . . 4
PT
G D . . . . . 5
PT
G D -P T . . . . 62

292312
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T T T T M
P
PT
M D . . .
PT
TT M G
PT
P T G P
8
PT
T M T . . . . . 9
06
PT
P T . . . .
PT
T T . . . 2
PT
T T . . . . 38
PT
T M D T P . . 1 4.6
PT
T M T T . . . . 57
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T T T
P G
PT
T T . . . . 164
PT
TT M D T . . . . . 72
PT
M P T D T
. s 180
PT
P G . . . . . 88
PT
M D P G . . . . . 97
PT
...... 2 7
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#
p
d
T D T
n ebruar o the ear 191 3 made up m mnd
to go to Turke or a ew months n order to
escape an atmosphere whch sckened me. The
ng sh Press and pub c had n ths twenteth
centur responded wth anatcsm to the cr o a
rusade aganst the Turk rased b some cunnng
akan ruers and that anatcsm had been
ostered as t seemed to m ntegence b rtsh
statesmen not or ther countr s ends but or
the ends and n the nterests o ussa our great
astern r a. The sodart o hrstendom
aganst a Musm power was reckoned a ne thng
b man peope but t broke the heart o
ngshmen who o ed the ast. or what
had ngand stood or unt then n nda
and throughout her astern empre ad she
not stood or un ersa toeraton or a naton-
at whch shoud be ndependent o regous
d erences The Turks o ther own w
espoused the same dea snce when the had
been pundered and attacked on a hands. nd
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#
p
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T T T T M
what had ngand done but sme upon ther
persecutors
The oncert o the Powers The Peace
o urope must be preser ed at a costs we were
tod : e en at the cost a sght one n the ew
o potcans o natona prestge and honour.
h urope urope s t a the word
obod thought o sa ookng on. nd one
mentoned t he was n ormed that sa dd not
count beng unc sed and what appeared to
man a concus e argument outsde the pae o
hrstant . t seemed to me that there were
two knds o hrstant : one whch woud
mt ts bene oence to hrstan peopes the
other whch regarded the word wth a ts creeds
and races as the theatre or hrstan chart and
hrstan |ustce. The rst whch st pre aed
n ussa and the akan states and st coud
cam adherents here n ngand was essenta
the same anatcsm whch we bame so oud
when t appears n the more gnorant Moham-
medans. The second ga e the sprt o our astern
empre the sprt o humant and toerance
whch one assocates wth modern e. we
ngand dscarded the second and embraced the
rst though on n appearance and rom mot es
o hgh poc concerned wth ussa the tera-
G
e
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e
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T D T x
mnded ast obser ant o our conduct step b step
woud ca us ars we shoud ha e betra ed the
ath whch the had paced n us and or eted
a mora cam to ther aegance.
There was besdes another aspect o the case.
The ast was wakng though the buk o t a
st unconscous wrapped n ts tradtons ke our
mede a orbears. t had been m ot n ear
outh to be mmersed n the unconscousness o
the od ast to rece e ts sprt or a season and to
know ts charm. nce then had obser ed wth
some anno ance the arous attacks o conscous
urope on unconscous sa and the strrng o
the atter towards a conscousness akn to ours. t
had been strange to see the men responsbe or
that awakenng shrnk back n horror as dd ranken-
sten be ore hs monster tr ng rantca but
n an to wreck ther work. To me t seemed
unreason near to madness or us ngsh e en to
attempt to stop a mo ement whch owed ts
nspraton arge to the work o ngshmen
and ngsh go ernments and such attempts
thought woud certan enta a hea penat .
The conscous natons str ng se sh or ther own
ends aed atogether to remark the ob ous hstorc
truth : that t was the thng the stro e not or
that came to pass ne tab n other words that
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x T T T T M
a natura emess attended bruta egotsm n the
word o natons as sure as n that o nd duas
agan n other words that God exsts. ecause
the penat was not mmedate t was dsregarded
b our potcans but such short-sghtedness n
men pad and apponted to see we and ar deser ed
the naton s censure. Turke a countr n cose
touch wth urope was the head o the pro-
gress e mo ement n the ast the natura head
the sanest head that coud be chosen or the Turk
was capabe o understandng urope and actng
as nterpreter to those behnd hm. we cut o
that head as ussa our a and other Powers
desred to do a hundred mad anatc heads woud
rse nstead o t a monster woud be ormed whch
woud de our our chdren. r so t seemed to me
when set out or Turke nor ha e snce seen
an thng to change m ew.
Peope n a poston to be we n ormed assured
me was atogether wrong because the Turks were
hopeess demorased the re outon had turned
out a ghast aure and so on. The tod me to
go to onstantnope and see or m se . had
not been there or some eghteen ears m more
recent knowedge o the ttoman mpre ntmate
though t was beng practca restrcted to the
rab pro nces. had there ore no rep to make
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T D T x
to such opponents though knew ther |udgment
aut except to take ther ad ce and go and |udge
or m se . ccordng ha ng been we supped
wth ntroductons b the kndness o some rends
set out to n estgate the state o Turke as ar
as mght be rom a Turksh pont o ew.
The resuts o that n estgaton ma be gathered
rom ths tte work whch rst appeared as a
seres o artces n the e o ge n t ha e
endea oured to portra the state o thngs whch
behed both good and e ar hdng nothng.
or ob ous reasons ha e atered or suppressed
the names o m assocates. ha e aso here and
there condensed a con ersaton or merged a number
o occasons nto one and ea ng out the usua
tourst busness o descrpton ha e treated man
o the thngs whch struck me as sgn cant. part
rom ths the narrat e s unembeshed. hope
that t w not be ound unnterestng.
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T T T T M
PT

e were on the ack ea but our e es ooked
out on somethng absoute coouress. ew
was curtaned o rom us b og a og as thck as
cotton-woo b whch the steamer s ength was
part hdden. ecause o ths our shp was hard
gong ts progress beng go erned b the mo e-
ments o a row-boat on ahead o whch the occu-
pants were takng soundngs. e heard them
shoutng numbers n oumanan cose to us but
coud not see a shadow o the boat or them. nd
e er and anon the og-horn dea ened us. nce we
were er near on some rocks a eow-passenger
n ormed me once m se was wtness o the
near escape we had o a coson wth another
steamer. There were desparng shouts as the
ague shapes o unnes and a hu oomed out
be ore us sudden rght n our course and er
cose ndeed. The sudden backng o the engnes
made us ree. t was a ter that escape that we
began to go so sow and the rowng-boat was sent
ahead to cear the wa .

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: :. T .T .T T M
There were about ort other passengers on
board none o them ngsh. t that tme peope
shunned onstantnope on account o the war the
aeged nstabt o the Go ernment and the re-
ported danger o a massacre o uropeans. a ng
come rom ern whch was pro-Turk terrtor
and not rom Pars had not heard the dread u
rumours whch dsturbed the mnds o se era o
m eow-tra eers and hearng them coud
augh at ther mprobabt . ne rench ad
h sterca anxous to re|on her husband who had
some empo ment n the threatened ct repeated
bemoaned her case to an ac uantance that she had
on board seemng to thnk the og o e omen or
her husband s ate. the uropeans seemed put
out and anxous mpatent o dea but the Turks
o whom there were a ew among us were resgned
as usua and who had no pressng cam on tme
was abe to assume and ee the same nd erence.
t e enng t became known that we had mssed
the entrance to the osphorus and e en shoud we
a terwards succeed n strkng t coud not go n
now as t was past sx o cock. The shp dropped
anchor then madame began to sob aoud and ex-
camatons o anno ance came rom a sdes. e
shoud ha e to spend ort -eght hours upon a
passage whch was common per ormed n twe e.
t was dsgustng ute nsu erabe ne gente-
man a Greek pro essng to know exact where
we were suggested we shoud aunch the boats
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3
and row ashore to ume a ak whence we coud
take a osphorus steamer to onstantnope. s
noton ound no a our wth the rest o us. the
skpper and the pot coud not nd the wa we
thought t tte ke that a andsman woud be
more success u. esdes the og was dead cod
the sbe sma patch o sea dark and repeent n
ts smoothness ke thn ce. There was warmth
and com ort and good ood on board the steamer
and e er one at ength agreed to make the best o
t. sense o knshp n ad erst was born n us
and that nght e er bod taked to e er bod . ne
punged at once to rendshp wthout the usua
ence o courteses. ne man tod me the whoe
hstor o hs marred e he ne er knew m name
nor hs and showed me photographs to ustrate
t n the dnng-room another tucked hs arm n
mne a ectonate and asked m hep to send a
wreess teegram.
ter dnner put on an o ercoat turned up the
coar and went out on deck to smoke aone. The
og was st as thck as e er. ur sren and the
bg horn spoke at nter as and rom the darkness
upon a sdes other hoots and shreks responded
rom sea-wa s anchored round us n the og.
soon got to know ther se era oces and ook out
or them and conce ed some noton o ther bearngs
n respect o us.
s was strong up and down on deck a man
approached whom had remarked b da or hs
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p
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4 T T T T M
obse uous adherence to the rst-cass passengers
though he hmse was o the second cass. e
passed me wth a conscous tte sme n doubt
t seemed whether to speak or no. dd not ook
orbddng e dent or a mnute ater as stood
besde the ra starng pont-bank at nothng tr -
ng to ocate the d erent og-horns whch kept
soundng n that back consstenc he was at m
sde addressng me n rench o the antne
schoo obser ng t was cod extreme er
er cod. made pote re|onder. e excamed
h ou are rench o sad and then
as he appeared consumed wth eagerness to know
m natonat reuctant con essed that was
ngsh. t seemed a shame to make no more
exctng statement n ew o hs n urng ea.
h he reped thought ou must be
ngsh b our ppe and the ashon o our
o ercoat. There s an ar about the ngsh
whch the other natons ack entre . am er
happ to make our ac uantance. e o e the
ngsh much. ou desre t can speak
ngsh wth ou. To show hs powers n ths
drecton he added ow do ou do sr n
m nat e tongue. ut as took no notce o
the nter|ecton the con ersaton was pursued n
rench.
here are ou gong
To onstantnope.
a e ou been there be ore
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5
nce. t must be eghteen ears ago.
hat s our busness there
ha e no busness there. go or peasure.
or peasure n ths tme o war and n the
wnter That s tte probabe. M n ustor
now smed ncreduous. n takng we had turned
so as to ace each other each eanng wth one
ebow on the ra. The ght o a near amp was
on hs ace a seek one and a atuous to me ds-
peasng. e wore a e but was no Turk the
act was patent rom hs mpudence. Perhaps
he sad exceedng knowng ou ha e some
secret msson whch ou w not te me.
To sa ths noton whch spread abroad
among the ugar mght we ha e ganed me
undeser ed and undesred attentons n ormed
hm o the truth : that was gong to on-
stantnope smp to obser e the state o thngs
n Turke .
h then ou are a potcan
o a wrter.
h t s er ortunate that ha e met ou.
can te ou e er thng. re there an uestons
ou woud ke to ask me am we n ormed o
e er thng n Turke . ha e secret n ormatons
whch can procure or ou.
put a ueston as to the atroctes commtted
b the ugarans n Macedona. Ths made hm
sngger.
That s a a abrcaton. ha e pr ate
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p
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6 T T T T M
n ormaton rom a rend o mne at Dede- ghach
where the Turks ha e saughtered a the hrstans.
t so happened that Dede- ghach was one o the
er ew paces where we had respectabe uropean
e dence upon the horrors commtted b ugaran
troops and komta|s. sad as much. t once m
rend re oked excamng :
w te ou how t was. The Turks began
to massacre kng two or three so the ugars
sad : ou w ether become hrstans or ea e
the countr or ese we w massacre ou a.
ere the not rght h sr ou do not know
a that we ha e to su er we hrstans here n
Turke rom the anatcsm o the Mussumans.
sha be happ to n orm ou u . am at
our dsposa.
smoked n sence or a whe be ore rep ng :
ou tak nonsense. t had not been or the
Turks not one renta hrstan woud ha e been
a e to-da . The anatcsm o atn urope was
n a ar wa to destro ou when the Turksh
con uest came and wth ts toeraton preser ed
ou n exstence.
h he eered round at once. hat ou
are sa ng now s er true. ormer the Turks
were not at a anatca. nd e en now the are
not ha so bad as peope thnk. ha e heard
gentemen on board sa ng that there has been
another re outon and attacks on hrstans n
onstantnope. who am o the countr we
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7
ac uanted wth the Turksh character nd m se
wonderng how such ase reports can be behe ed.
ma be wrongng m unknown nterocutor but
cannot hep suspectng that but or the rm ne
had taken wth hm he woud hmse ha e tod
me those reports were true.
Ma ask ou ha e rends ng n on-
stantnope he n ured. s tone had grown
much ess obse uous and more respect u. 1 et
a Turksh names. ut ou shoud know
rmenans aso he protested.
reped that shoud do as thought t. e
hung about m o ercoat a tte n a sort o awe
then bowng ow wshed me good nght. then
resumed m nterrupted exercse musng upon hs
knd and a the msche the ha e done to Turke .
s ke beset the newspaper correspondent and
the tra eer wth n ormaton whch not entre
ase s so presented as to g e a ase mpresson
whch n ormaton s n arab made to correspond
exact wth the tra eer s own taste as ascertaned
b the n ormer. The better sort o nat e
hrstans are amost as excus e as the Turks.
Ths t pe s e er at the ser ce o the oregn
bus bod . e s a product o the poc whch
urope has pursued or a whoe centur o
nter erence on beha o ttoman hrstans and
mssonar e orts or ther educaton and ad ance-
ment. The resut s that the hrstan o the
baser sort whe st technca an ttoman
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8 T T T T M
sub|ect pa s aegance n reat to oregn Go ern-
ments and asks no better than to be ther hreng.
ot e ears ago at the Turksh re outon
there had been a chance that these parastca
enemes woud ansh ether emgratng rom the
countr or becomng part o the ttoman naton.
To secure ths end the one necesst was or the
Powers o urope to wthdraw ther countenance
rom certan nternecne agtatons and ntrgues.
or a ew weeks on dd ths hope appear. Then
urope made t pan that she was st the enem
o Turke ntent now more than e er to despo
and rend her. hat other constructon can be put
upon the act that the re outon was consdered
nshed ts resuts estmabe n the chanceeres o
urope wthn a ear o ts rst outbreak when
e er one ac uanted wth condtons n the countr -
knew that Turke must reman n re outon or at
east ten ears The parastes behe ed that ther
orders were unchanged. The ear n the da
betra ed dstrust o the re ormers dstrust whch
was o course recprocated. a man uropeans
who had spent ther es n Turke and were
not upon the whoe un rend to the Turks
seeng that the re outon worked no mrace
became ts enemes orgettng that re orms need
tme that to create a naton out o d ers eements
s a work o educaton whch re ures at east a
generaton to bear an rut orgettng aso the
attacks to whch progress e Turke has been
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9
sub|ect not consderng at a the countr s or the
peope s good nor et the n uence the change must
ha e upon the Musm word. course there s
another ew o recent Turksh hstor whch sees
the nat e hrstans n the ght o mart rs the
powers o urope che among them ussa as
rghteous |udges mo ed b ams o arge humant .
ut ths s atogether an anachronsm. ne mght
as we regard the oman athocs n ngand at
the present da as su erers and |ust a crusade
o the atn Powers or ther de erance. t s
besdes too oent hed and preached to bear
cam scrutn .
These re ectons and the ceaseess hootng o
the og-horns kept me wakng n m bunk. hen
got up n the mornng a ter our hours seep the
hoots were st persstent. magned we had
hard mo ed rom ast nght s anchorage. t was
there ore wth astonshment when w nt up on
deck that saw the round towers runed was
and uant red-roo ed town o ume ssar bathed
n ear mornng sunght rsng rom a sea o per-
wnke bue.
en as came on t the son aded a dr t o
opa og swam n between and b the caprce o the
oatng apours the satc coast appeared as a great
purpe shadow. Then somethng oomed upon our
port bow took shape rapd became an roncad as
bus as an ant-h. t anshed but another o-
owed exact ke t except that ths was back whe
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10 T T T T M
that was gre . There seemed no end o oregn
warshps n the strat. M eow-passengers were
gad o t the hrstans n onstantnope must be
sa e the sad the ner ous renchwoman thanked
God wth streamng e es ntent upon a rst-cass
cruser. nd et the scene was wonder u peace-
u as the cearng og re eaed t the mos ue o
rta- eu wth ts grace u mnarets reposng on
the water ke a swan the mos ue and paaces o
Doma- aghcheh the custered wooden houses
brown and gre wth prett red-te roo s the
wooded hs the c press trees watchng the sparke
o the sea on whch we gded sow . head o
us the soarng mnarets and stump dome o a
o a appeared n mst then to the rght o
them and seemng hgh n ar cear o the og
shone out the dadem o od tambou the gorous
ue man eh. Ths was soon hdden b an arm o
Gaata as we drew up to the ua where the same
pushng eng seemng urous crowd o touts and
porters wated as n peace-tme. saw no d erence
there or on the dr e up to Pera wth a ser ceabe
hote dragoman who had reeased me and m
uggage rom the tumut except that e er thng was
two shades ceaner that the horses drawng m
carrage were o a more wretched descrpton and
that wheeed tra c n the streets was ess than
coud be reckoned norma e en at that ear hour.
saw tramwa s but no trams whch rather peased
me. the decent horses had been taken or the
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war m gude n ormed me. The streets through
whch we passed were atogether o a estern knd
ew rt pre ang n the nes o budng. xcept
at one pont where some dsused Mosem cemeteres
aowed a ew across ther c press-tops o tambou
and the Goden orn the mght ha e been n an
ct rom Madrd to uda-Pesth. The og had ted.
t was now a sunn mornng though the ar bt
shrewd as notced when ha ng been shown to
an exated bedroom at the Pera Paace entured
on the bacon wthout m o ercoat. The ew
was da ng. The waters o the Goden orn ran
bue beow a h o c presses tambou be ond them
ormng a hgh background whe on ths sde o
the water there were hs and gens a o er-grown
wth wooden houses under red-ted roo s wth
domes and mnarets and prett gra e ards. nd
o er a the roo s and domes abo e the mournng
pumes o the od cemeteres there uttered cooured
streamers decoratng the whoe town. These were
chdren s ktes. er tran u murmur rose up
rom the scene. M gude hmse a hrstan
assured me that the ct had been peace u through
the war-tme wthout the sghest hnt or ear o
rot. h then were the oregn warshps n the
osphorus
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PT
T M D P
The ews rom Pera are magn cent. There ma -
be other charms about the pace but ha e not
dsco ered them. udden n ts pretentous
modern but maodorous streets there comes a gap
n the hgh wa o budngs and one sees the
osphorus and cooured cutar rngng the hs o
sa or perhaps the Goden orn wth asm
Pasha n the mdde oreground and tambou
be ond. ut en|o ment o such gmpses s con-
sderab mpared b the nsu erabe nature o the
popuaton whch howe er ashonab dressed
woud seem to consst entre o dsreputabe and
o ens e persons. These make nothng o shouder-
ng ou o the pa ement or draggng ou asde
wth hands. o woman ha e been assured b
Turksh and uropean ades howe er modest her
appearance s sa e rom nsut n these streets.
tambou s much to be pre erred n ths respect.
There must be decent peope n the pace or t s
the hrstan and uropean uarter contans the
embasses and se era churches but the ha e no
n uence upon the genera atmosphere o ce and
12
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T M D P 13
rank ugart . ontrasted wth the strcter moras
and purtanca decorum o the Turks Pera and ts
neghbour Gaata are a huge pague spot a
parastc growth whch threatens Turke wth
corrupton. et Pera and ts popuaton stand or
e er thng whch the Powers o urope esteem
worth o protecton n the ttoman mpre. ne
mornng turnng o the man street where t
narrows sudden came upon a barber s wndow
wth ths egend: ende ous de Tarstocrate
perote. stood st wth ama ement starng.
pecmens o the Pera arstocrac appeared wthn
smrkng se -sats ed o haught men. ende -
ous o the Peran arstocrac . To what a depth
had a once nobe word descended that t coud
be used to desgnate the scum o the e ant
ha e taken Turks to see the barber s shop and
shown them the nscrpton to ther great deght.
n m rst e enng n onstantnope took a
wak up the Grande ue. n ether pa ement
mo ed a ashonabe throng o Greek and uropean
dem-mondanes wth ther natura compement o
men n b cocks crush hats and e es. er ace
o whch caught a gmpse n passng was anma
or cunnng and seemed bent upon mmedate
peasure. rom brght -ghted ca es came ga
sounds o musc. The pcture-theatres and a pace
o entertanment abeed katng appeared to be
dong a brsk trade. coud not but remember
that most o the persons who kept pushng past me
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14 T T T T M
ntent upon amusement were ttoman sub|ects and
that the ttoman mpre was ghtng or ts e
not thrt mes rom ths man street o Pera where
the cannon at hata|a had been pan heard.
hat recked the The were hrstans and
the Turks Mohammedans. s hrstans the
desred the down a o the Turks and woud ha e
ked to see a hrstan kng no matter whch
arr e as con ueror. s hrstans the must take
ther peasure n a and o gre The Turksh aw
accorded them ths reedom : the Turksh poce
patrong the ong street n pars guns sung
across ther backs secured t to them. The mght
ha e been restraned or chdden or ther gaet
ther theatres mght ha e been cosed unt the war
was o er ther es were ne er n the sghtest
danger. ut the thought the were.
the rumours o ntended massacres o hrstans
a the reports o Turksh anatcsm whch
ed our newspapers at the begnnng o the
war orgnated n ther groundess ears. n erte-
brate the crnge when scared grow nsoent
when conscous o another s strength supportng
them. nce assured o power u protecton b
the presence o the oregn warshps n the
osphorus ther demeanour became such as no
other peope but the Turks woud ha e endured
so ha e been assured b peope who were n
onstantnope a the whe and so can bee e
rom what aso wtnessed. ue|ackets were
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T M D P 15
anded or ther protecton ast o ember when the
ugaran arm broke on the hata|a nes a
crownng nsut to the Musm popuaton whch
howe er took no notce coud not be enraged.
The on dsorders n onstantnope durng the war
ha e been the braws o drunken saors rom the
oregn warshps. t the tme when the ugarans
rst reached hata|a and t was thought that the
mght take the ct a preate o the Greek hurch
n onstantnope ded and was bured there wth
u ceremona Turksh troops keepng the road
or the processon. uppose a oman athoc
arm to threaten the ct o e ast the parae
was suggested to me b an ngshman who had
|ust come rom the orth o reand and a oman
athoc bshop n e ast to de |ust then woud
he be aowed a pubc unera . gan on o
Thursda o ths ear there was a ree ght n and
around the bg Greek church at Pera d erent
groups o persons n the congregaton contendng
or the rght to carr n processon the great
cross. Men were stabbed and e women anted
the great cross was broken n the scrmmage the
bshop struck out wth hs sta upon the sea o
heads. The Turksh poce upon the spot pro ed
nsu cent to put down the rot. orce o
mounted men was brought rom hsheh whch at
ength succeeded n restorng order and con e ed
the wounded to the nearest hospta.
e such s Pera. Durng m short sta
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6 T T T T M
there spent the hours o da ght most n
tambou. n the da o m arr a waked nto
a o a and a smaer mos ue hard b o whch
1 ne er knew the name. a o a had been u
o re ugees rom Thrace and Macedona and
though most o these had been remo ed to camps
so-caed upon the coast o sa a ew am
groups st remaned hudded together n the great
cosed porch. Ther appearance the resut o
hrstan onsaught mght we ha e roused
anatcsm n Mohammedans. s was enterng
the mos ue tse a h |a asked me er courteous
to be so good as to take o m hat a thng had
not dared to do beng used to rabs among
whom remo a o the headdress s st regarded as
an act o rudeness. e expaned that had worn
a e must ha e kept t on. o other word or
ook addressed to me on that or an other o m
wanderngs suggested that the d erence o ath
was e en recognsed.
ome soders new come rom sa strong
round as was |oned themse es to me when the
ound that coud read the texts and ho names
upon the was seemng pro ound grate u or the
sma enghtenment. The ho|a who had asked
me to take o m hat dsco erng n ths wa that
knew some rabc came up present and took
me out to an ad|acent mausoeum where was a ne
manuscrpt o the oran the soders oowng. e
made me read a page aoud n the rght tone o
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T M D P 17
oce to show the custodan o the tomb that
coud rea do t. There were Ma sh ah s.
nd then the a began to tak to me n Turksh
o whch then knew on a ew smpe phrases.
expaned n rabc m dsabt wth shrugs and
gestures and took m ea e amd a per ect storm
o benedctons.
Though t was st the month o ebruar od
st e we en|o ed a spe o rea sprng weather
makng t possbe to wak wth some amount o
peasure. There s a ast expanse o runs n the
mdde o tambou the work o the great re two
ears ago. Gre mounds and bts o wa wth
here an arch and there the par o a mnaret e t
standng co er a h-sde sopng to the ea o
Marmora across whch on cear da s one saw
the hs o roussa and a shmmer o the snows
whch crown the M san mpus. The poorer
Turks who o e a open paces wth a ew ha e
made o t a peasure ground. hdren s ktes o
man coours uttered abo e t n the bue no
doubt perpexng the rea ktes and crows and
whte-wnged sea brds. Groups o chdren were
at pa among the mounds whe groups o eders
sat or stroed about n arab wth ther aces
towards the sea. ut the waste was so extens e
that one coud be ute aone there. hen the
thud o cannon came out o the dstance the nose
the chdren made n pa ng had a certan pathos.
t was the one sound o re|ocng n tambou.

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1 8 T T T T M
n the streets one heard no musc and no sngng
sounds so essenta to the e o astern ctes
that stened or them. ne mssed the usua
|okes and aughter n the markets. ow and then
the rub-dub o a drum was heard a banner and
a mote group o men and bo s whte beards
among them a excted appeared at a street-end
marchng brsk to the drum s beat. The were
ounteers or the ront. ach mornng se era
drums and ags set out and a da ong paraded
d erent uarters o the ct . hen e enng came
and the recrutng partes met agan the coecton
amost awa s passed two thousand o ten e en
passed three thousand men. nd a the whe
aong the great man arteres traned troops new-
come rom sa were trampng towards the seat
o war. There were soders upon e er boat
whch crossed rom adar Pasha to the rdge
soders encamped at cutar and G u -tepeh and
man other ponts upon the coast o sa soders
at an te ano soders n e er barracks o the
capta. ne mornng when took a carrage
to dr e out to the de rneh Gate a ong e o
men n khak un orms wth gre shaws round
ther heads each eadng a sturd rab pon
charged wth hs beongngs was passng m hote.
t stretched as ar as coud see n both drectons.
Dr ng besde t down the h and o er the ree
brdge dd not pass the head o the processon
t reached the open space be ore the on ueror s
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T M D P 19
mos ue n the heart o tambou. The dstance
must be ute three mes. nd the were we
apponted we- ound men those soders no
onger the sad scarecrows that one used to see n
Turke . Thanks to Mahmud he ket.
ut a stream o dscpned and we-dressed
troops owed da out towards an te ano a
thnner sower stream o wretched ones set back
towards the so eregn ct . ne e enng when
returnng to m hoster aong the Pera street
notced n the dressed-up crowd a tendenc to stop
and ne the kerb-stone and saw the e antnes
exchangng aughs and merr wnks. ranng m
neck to see what the un was saw :
bout three hundred wounded Turksh soders
wakng two and two and hodng hands draggng
ther eet aong wth droopng heads. ne or
two more stawart kept up some knd o a song
to cheer the rest. ar-staned tra e-staned ther
honest peasant aces each wth ts ook o pan the
took no heed o the amusement o that ashonabe
throng trudgng aong wth ther gra e patence
natoan Turks the most ong-su erng and knd
o races to whch no Power o urope g es a
thought. There ore the are drt to the arsto-
crate perote who eed on them. ecause the
pra to God e tmes a da the are anatca
because the ha e not been to msson schoos the
are barbarans and when the come back wounded
n ther countr s cause ther condton s t theme
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20 T T T T M
or gbes and aughter. The had the presumpton
to ght or ther own and aganst superor c sed
hrstans who desre to take t. t s a |oke to
see how we the ha e been hacked about. The
hrstans ne ther a Doorosa. The are |eered
at n the streets o ther own capta. h the
anatcsm o the Turks dear hrstan brethren
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PT
T G
etters o ntroducton are a otter . ut o the
three whch presented on arr a n onstant-
nope two were product e o mere courtes whe
the thrd enrched me wth a rend or e n
aat e caed ngsh aat rom hs
s mpathes and to dstngush hm rom a the
other aat e s. o sooner was ths rend n-
ormed o m arr a than he came to see me and
pace hs nterest entre at m ser ce. e pro-
cured or me a Turksh teacher who knew rabc
then set hs mnd to grat m strongest wsh
whch was to get awa rom Pera uck nto
Turksh e. The d erence o ath and customs
made ths desre o mne extreme hard to meet.
There were Turksh hotes he tod me but the
were nether er cean nor er com ortabe.
the com ort and the charm o Turksh e were n
the home and that was absoute naccessbe.
oud t not be best or me he uestoned to sta
where was n a uxurous hote where he woud
brng Turks to see me an one wshed to know
n partcuar a rend o hs a na a o cer who
21
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22 T T T T M
knew ngsh we pa ed go and tenns and
coud teach me Turksh and a other matters
ncdenta
M answer was a most emphatc no. had not
come to Turke to pa go or tenns nor wth the
east desre to hear m nat e tongue. had been
o ered ntroductons to some ngsh peope n
onstantnope but had re used them or ear o
the con entona good tme whch means sheer
waste o opportunt . woud dent m se wth
Turks or the ew months at m dsposa as the
on wa o earnng what wshed to know.
e seemed astonshed b ths decaraton and
n the dscusson whch ensued between us e ed me
strange . . Then there was nothng or t but that
shoud take a house ether at tambou or n the
countr . dd not mnd the countr a house
coud more eas be ound there. ut house-rent
was expens e but urnture and ser ants o ered
probems but the countr was mpossbe |ust
now n wnter but but but
decared that were the sea hard- ro en and the
and neck-deep n snow shoud pre er the meanest
odgng n a Musm age to a cosmopotan hote
n Per a.
M ehemence amusng hm he sad : h s
t that ou a hate Pera so e had heard so
man ngshmen n egh aganst t. t t was
the nearest approach to uropean smartness to be
ound n Turke and those who sought a merr
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T G 23
e had best reman there. Perhaps howe er
was rght n m desre to ea e t agan caught
hm ookng at me curous or peope who knew
che uropeans gathered ute a wrong dea o
Turksh manners. the same he eared shoud
be bored to death. There woud be absoute
nothng to d ert me no games no partes
nothng. e was a rad that shoud be dsgusted
wth the peope and the e. then con essed
the thng had hung so ong between us and et
gut under hs bewdered ga e that was not
great eared a proper ngshman snce the
chosen pastmes o m race had no deght or me.
tod hm somethng o m rab e m o e o
Musms. s ace then brghtened wth nte-
gence he pressed m hand and sad that there
woud be no urther d cut .
hat d cut there was arose rom the ob|ec-
ton whch a Turks ndeed a rentas ha e
to the ntruson o a one man n ther neghbour-
hood who ma ute natura snce he s aone
cast ongng e es upon ther women. M rend
decared t was a pt that had not brought m
w e wth me snce her presence woud ha e
smp ed the whoe a ar. ut t woud aso
ha e pre ented the compete mmerson n thngs
Turksh or a term o months whch was m wa
o stud ng the countr .
t ast one e enng aat came to sa that he
bee ed that he had ound the er thng or me.
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24 T T T T M
e had |ust that mnute thought o Msket anum
an od rend o hs. Ths Msket anum though
a uropean ad rea estern uropean he n-
ssted wthout a tant o the e ant had become
a Turk to a ntents and purposes ha ng rom a
chd thrown n her ot wth Musms and speakng
Turksh as her nat e tongue. he nhabted a
ne kosk upon the coast o sa. nce her ather s
death the house was much too arge or her. e
was gong to persuade her to et me ha e part o t.
er uropean brth m rend consdered woud
pre ent her eeng sh o a mae stor whe the
Turks woud be ute sats ed o m respectabt
guaranteed b her.
hung m hopes at once upon ths pro|ect and
when m knd rend came agan upon the morrow
to te me t was a arranged |umped or |o . e
packed me o at once to see the house wrtng me
out a paper o drectons whch was to show to
an bod ost m bearngs. rr ed at the
age was to ca rst upon one eth e who
wshed to know me and eth e woud take
me on to Msket anum s. Thus charged took
a cab down to the brdge where wthout much
d cut procured the necessar tckets at the
andng-stage and present made one o a dense
crowd o peasure-seekers t was rda a ternoon
on the deck o a steamer gdng out nto the
osphorus. t was a brant da . er the bue
water the seasde towns and hs o sa smed a
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T G 25
wecome aread seemng home to m magnaton.
andng at adar Pasha be ore the staton o the
natoan rawa passed wth the crowd up a
broad ght o steps and through a doorwa .
tran was watng. er bod made or t so dd
kewse shrkng the natura ueston whch pre-
sented d cutes. coud not ha e done better
as t happened or a ter ha an hour o doubt and
some anxet heard the name that was stenng
or caed out b porters and aghted n what
seemed a pubc garden under trees u o a ga
cooured astern crowd wth a whte mos ue
behnd t and a bookng-o ce somewhere n ts
depths. oowng m rend s nstructons
sought out the staton-master showed hm m
paper and besought hs ad. aat had decreed
he was to put me n a carrage. Ths howe er
he re used to do protestng that the house wanted
was but two steps o . e ponted to a bg kosk
across the ne and set out to reach t. ut as
the road went round among the garden was
ound t necessar to make resh n ures. dd
so at a corner shop a knd o ca ern under trees
n whch a group o men sat gosspng agan o
one who ed a buock-waggon and an od man at
work upon a broken wa. here s the house
o eth e was m stock ueston. The
answer came n arab : angh eth e
hch eth e . The son o asan Pasha.
angh asan Pasha t seemed there were
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26 T T T T M
a hundred o that name. coud on shrug and
show m paper hepess and none o those asked
coud read a word.
The bg kosks or countr houses had no names
or numbers. Ther gardens were surrounded b
orbddng was ther gates were hgh and sod
shuttng out a ew o them. The were ds-
tngushed oca ound out a terwards b natura
or artstc eatures : pne-tree kosk. The
kosk wth the brght green gates. The kosk
wth the |udas trees n ront o t. The kosk
be ore whose gate there s a bg bump n the road
and so on. dd to ths that the Turks ha e no
am names so that one s orced to ask or Mr
ohn or Mr chard n a and where ohns and
chards are as thck as o es began to rease
the superhuman d cutes wth whch the Turksh
post has to contend and snce then ha e had reason
to admre the keen ntegence dspa ed on two
occasons b that much-magned department. t
s unusua or Turks uness near neghbours or
extreme ntmate to ca on one another n ther
countr houses these beng regarded as essenta
the home where women can en|o more bert
than s aowed them n the ct . The men go nto
town or busness and socet . The women know
the houses o ther rends rom chdhood gene-
ra though dd once encounter an od ad
n a state o tears who begged me or the o e
o ah to drect her to a certan Pasha s house
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T G 27
or whch she had been searchng or our sod
hours
e there was n a road o hgh bnd was
wth ea ess trees behnd them through whose
boughs the attced upper wndows o one huge
kosk peered at me mockng . There were a hun-
dred ord ookng gates to choose rom and
not a sou who coud drect me. t ast put m
ueston to a turbaned eder n an ancent coak
who came up sow eanng on a sta . had |ust
dsco ered on m paper o nstructons that the
house wanted was opposte the kosk o ngsh
a Pasha a nckname has the aue o a surname .
pposte the kosk o ngsh a Pasha the ate
asan Pasha s son eth e . Thus ran the egend.
The od man understood m ueston and
e dent knew the house wanted per ect or
he was gong to great engths n expanaton when
seeng m bank ook he cred out : Turk a
bma or e knows no Turksh and hd hs ace
n hs hand. Thnkng the nter ew concuded
to m dsad antage thanked hm knd and
was mo ng on when he took sudden hod o me
excamng ook xed m e es upon the
ngers he hed up be ore me whe he shouted :
ne two three our gate the rght sde
understand dd understand those smpe
Turksh words and set o brsk but be ore had
accompshed t paces was wonderng whether
or no to count the gate near whch our coo u
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28 T T T T M
had taken pace. ooked round or m drector.
e had dsappeared. nd then ound had
orgotten where started rom and how man
gates had aread passed. M uest appeared so
hopeess that thought o gong straght back to
the staton. ut be ore desparng t seemed best
to tr one house. there ore chose a par o |eaous
gates the nearest and pued the be. t rang
much ouder than had expected. The gate
was opened nstant a tte wa . ser ng man
ooked out.
s ths the house o eth e asked.
angh eth e came back the answer
sap.
coud ha e howed so great was m exaspera-
ton but at that moment some one spped out
rom the garden opposte and ran across the road.
M name was spoken. saw a er genteman
ookng outh smng and hodng out hs hand to
me.
M brother-n-aw expects ou he remarked
n rench. e shoud a ha e met ou at the
staton as a dut on as we dd not know our
keness we thought that that woud be the surest
wa to mss ou. e across the road and was
tod to watch.
The be that had rung was a ter a the rght
one. ter an hour o con ersaton /th a group
o rend men n a Parsan drawng-room was
taken out to see m uture resdence.
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T G 19
The kosk o Msket anum d ered rom the
others n appearance on n the matter o ts
garden gates whch though as hgh as a the others
were o open ronwork aowng passers-b a gmpse
o a broad gra e-sweep surroundng a hgh kno
on whch the house stood hdden n a gro e o
deodars. s we drew near the door a mad came out
and asked us to be good enough to wak about the
garden or a mnute as her mstress had some ad
stors. ccordng we wandered through a
gro e o ea ess chestnut trees a thcket o mag-
noas and some shrubberes behnd the house to a
sma ake a e wth god sh whence we passed
on through a pne coppce a ne ard and an
orchard to a shetered roser where Msket anum
a sm grsh gure came to greet us. he was
so much more outh u than had expected that
coud not repress an excamaton o concern. M
companon ute apprecated m msg ngs but
hoped t woud not matter among uropeans. e
woud be mserabe or e he sad shoud an -
thng pre ent m comng to the neghbourhood.
M whoe scheme was o course mproper rom a
Turksh pont o ew.
ut at the rst words the ad spoke a ues-
ton o propret was ost n dsappontment. he
remarked n per ect ngsh that she was a rad
she coud not ha e me as she had as good as et the
rooms aread to a German am od rends o
her papa. he took us then nto the house and
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30 T T T T M
|ust to tantase me as t seemed showed us the
rooms predestned or the German am whch
were deght u ookng out nto the upper branches
o the deodars.
hat uck asked aat greetng me on m
return to Pera. earng o m dsappontment
he seemed much anno ed. Msket he sad had
et hm thnk that she was wng to rece e me
she was ke hs sster and had no busness to pa
ast and oose n ths wa . he had he now re-
membered murmured o a German am but he
had treated t as mere e ason whch ndeed t
pro ed. e tod me not to worr he woud put
thngs straght. n act when next he caed t
was to te me a was we. was to mo e to
Msket anum s bag and baggage on the Monda
oowng. e more than hnted aughng at
exertons he had undergone ong arguments d ers-
ed wth tte |ourne s to brng n d ers negh-
bours to persuade the ad whose reuctance
unexpected n a uropean he set down to the
natura rowardness o grs.
s now ook back on them the sxteen da s
whch spent at the Pera Paace were both amusng
and nstruct e. The compan conssted o a ew
war-correspondents and photographers a ew con-
cesson hunters two g ptan prnces and one
Turksh genteman adar e son o the
great re ormer Mdhat Pasha. The ast named to
whom aat had presented me took pt on m
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T G 31
stranded state and genera spent the e enng
wth me n dscusson o a sorts o topcs. ur
humours chmng we became good rends. n-
peasant-ookng e antnes attendant on the cor-
respondents came and went. ne horrbe
rmenan n partcuar woud strut among us wth
a knowng ar and when uestoned o the news
woud sa : ha e m pr ate n ormashuns
Ths man was ponted out to me know not wh
as the Tmes correspondent whch he cer-
tan was not. worked or two hours da wth
a Turksh teacher a oman athoc rab rom
Dar- ekr one o the under-masters at the Gaata-
sera schoo. e pro ed a capabe nstructor and
was besdes a modest and we-mannered outh
ute ke a Turk n hs beha our. Though we
taked together ong and ree coud not dsco er
that he had e er so much as heard o Turksh
anatcsm hrstan though he was and mxng
as he dd contnua wth Mohammedans. ndeed
he was a most enthusastc ttoman and m ac-
uantance wth hm ga e me the rst hnt o what
the re outon mght be dong or the rsng gene-
raton. had to part wth hm when retred to
Msket anum s.
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PT
P T
ad been a akan arm Msket anum coud
not ha e et more dread o m arr a. hen
aat e ad|ured her to rece e me as a guest she
hastened to seek strength among her rends. Put-
tng on her head- e and mashak she ed round
rom house to house bewang her sad case and
e er one ho came to ca on her as asked or pt .
To m certan knowedge she consuted a prncess
o the mpera am two pashas two doctors a
mtar cadet a dressmaker and a washerwoman
n addton to the ades ormng her mmedate
crce. he was horr ed to nd opnons prett
e en d ded as to the propret o the proceed-
ng whch was beng urged on her. The prncess
argued that coud not be depra ed or rea
dangerous snce was recommended b a Turksh
genteman o good repute and was a o er o sam.
pon the whoe she was ad sed to make a tra
o me a her Turksh rends engagng to hasten
to her rescue shoud pro e obstreperous. The
mtar cadet abo e re erred to a sterng rab
rom Damascus who when we met was rst to augh
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P T 33
at these orebodngs ad sed that speca watchmen
shoud be posted round the house unt the coud
be sure that was not a mae actor aso that the
head gardener we-armed shoud seep ndoors the
rst ew nghts to be at hand needed.
These counses whe upon the whoe the egged
her on to the ad enture ncreased the ad s terrors
whch arose rom Turksh modest or the Musm
order o socet s as prudsh as a nox or a n
coud desre protectng a arge store o hdden
sweetness a act to whch that bessed word
po gam has bnded the ma|ort o uropeans.
hen the carrage whch had brought me rom
the rawa staton pued up at the gate was
struck b the pae aces as o creatures doomed to
death o the women who ran out to meet me.
The gardener en|oned to take m uggage a
handsome a rom Treb ond the same who had
been chosen to rustrate m anced wckedness b
seepng n the house the rst ew nghts aone
had strength to sme. The women rghtened as
the were oppressed me wth attentons. M
kes and dskes were ther e dent concern. The
cook s msg ngs were o a consumng nature.
there was an thng that partcuar ked et me
name t and t shoud be brought possbe
though n ths war tme when suppes were ar
rom exceent t was hoped that woud con-
descend to make aowances. ear was expressed est
shoud hate the duness o the age e and
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34 T T T T M
bame them or t seemed to be n erred. There
agan the war was responsbe. There was so much
sorrow not a house but mourned some near
reaton.
dd m best to cam the trembng suppants
assurng them that was so deghted to be ut o
Pera that shoud not notce though sept on
stones and ate dr bread. ew words wth m
hostess on the sub|ect o the Turks re eang a
wde ed o s mpath seemed sght to ree e
her mnd. h s t that a urope hates us
she excamed. h are hrstans who ca
themse es enghtened and we educated so
murderous anatca aganst the kndest and most
uprght peope n the word he had ed
among the Turks rom chdhood wth her ather.
hen m ather ded she tod me man
uropean rends magned shoud ea e ths
house and go to Pera mpored me to retre to
Pera to be sa e That shows how tte uropeans
ng here n Turke know about the Turks. To
ths da the thnk t dread u that sta on here
aone wth Musm ser ants. ut am sure that
am sa er more respected here than an where n
urope.
he assured me she had ne er met wth an
wrong nothng but kndness both rom rch and
poor among these peope whom the hrstans
were now bent upon extermnatng. he had
nursed the wounded n a oca hospta and wshed
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P T 35
coud ha e seen how good the were and patent.
Tears ed her e es as she re erred to them. he
had been the on woman n that hospta the other
nurses were a Turksh gentemen and she had
been treated wth the nest courtes . er eow-
workers had become her rends or e. ow were
such es about the Turks bee ed n urope who
n ented them
he had to ea e me present beng st n much
concern about the com ort o m room. then
put on a e and went out nto the garden to a
shad seat. t was an a ternoon o summer heat
contrastng wth the wntr bareness o the chestnut
gro e whch stretched be ore me ase on ase.
tentat e ha -wakened croak o rogs came rom
the tte ake upon m e t hdden rom ew
behnd a mass o shrubber . ea astern cres
were wa ted rom the dstant roadwa . et
entre com ortabe and n pace or the rst tme
snce ea ng m own ussex armhouse. The
twgs and branches o the chestnut trees cast a
tracer o shade upon the ground. was contem-
patng ths and smokng peace u when the
ntruson o a broader shadow caused me to ook
up. er state personage had |oned me
sent . s snow turban and back owng robe
announced hm as a kho|a Musm cerg man .
th hs rght hand he sauted gra e touchng
ps and brow. rose and dd the same. e
handed me a stng card o aat e s wth m
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36 T T T T M
name and some magned dgntes wrtten on t n
Turksh. a ng read t sauted once agan
pro ound took hs hand and ed hm to the seat
upon m rght. n sttng down we both ha rose
agan and dd the same saute ths tme wth smes.
To m mmense ree m stor then uttered words
o rabc the best oranc rabc pronounced
wth man hestatons and much search or words
precse as a cassca schoar o the hurch o
ngand woud speak atn obged to do so
or the rst tme. began to answer gb n the
ran ernacuar t saw that t was arge
unntegbe to hm when aso was obged to use
the terar anguage. ur con ersaton was thus
stted but we understood each other per ect .
e was earnt a keen progress e ke so
man ute od- ashoned Musms. ndeed there
has awa s been a number o de out Moham-
medans who regarded an unbrded despotsm
as o nature rregous and dsastrous to sam.
earned doctors o regon had a arge hand n
drawng up Mdhat Pasha s onsttuton and the
theoogca students n the capta were ts erce
supporters. t s there ore a mstake to speak o
sam as unprogress e sa e b orce o crcum-
stances. M stor dwet much upon the need o
patrotc educaton o encouragement o e er
oca e ort or se -go ernment as tendng to
ree e the Porte o the enormous burden e t to
t b the od t rannca regme. The work had
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P T 37
been mapped out he sad and as regarded educa-
ton we begun. aat had tod hm that knew
rabc and was a o er o sam and he had eager
expected m arr a n order to en|o a tak wth
me about the uture o the countr . e was one
o the Deputes o onstantnope n Parament
and a theoogca authort a terwards dsco ered.
hat coud te hm was the cause o the
great outbreak o hrstan anatcsm amng as
t seemed at the extermnaton o the uropean
Musms at a tme when Turke had espoused that
er progress whch uropeans had been preachng
to her as the one thng need u tod hm m
opnon : that the hrstan Go ernments were
para sed b mutua ears thus g ng ussa s
ancent hatred o the Turk the ead whch resou-
ton has n an assemb o the hestatng that
among the estern peopes the crusadng sprt
now as n od da s was due to utter gnorance.
e asked a ot o other uestons whch answered
to the best o m abt . Meanwhe wthout
the need o an bddng a damse brought out
co ee and some appetsng cake o whch we both
partook.
he we were takng had more than once a
sense o beng sped on rom the house. o sooner
had m stor departed than the eeng was ex-
paned or Msket anum hurred out precedng
n order to ntroduce two Turksh ades wearng
the head e and the oose whte coak whch s a
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38 T T T T M
that s consdered necessar n the countr or
n orma sts and two oung men ther reat es.
The had come to bd me wecome to the age
and ongng as the sad to make m ac uantance
had been watchng our con ersaton rom a wndow
ookng daggers at the kho|a thnkng he woud
ne er go. course the dared not come out
that s show ther aces to a man whe he
remaned. Two er prett grs bowed to me
bushng and hed out ther hands as soon as ther
mae reat es had shaken mne. ecome to
our countr was the burden o ther greetngs
whch had a sma pont o hostt t soon ap-
peared or the mmedate expressed regret that
owng to the wcked crue war saw t ute un-
ke tse mmersed n gre . ut t was not to
bame or that must remember. was to bame
or t seemed to be mped as representat e o
hate u urope. Two pars o great bue e es
ha - rghtened ha -de ant searched m ace or
e dence o anger or anatcsm. The ouths more
d dent e t to the grs the task o openng con-
ersaton. gan was asked wh ngand hated
Turke agan ared m ews upon the sub|ect
ths tme n rench whch the eder o the grs
spoke amost per ect . Msket anum urred as
she was wth busness upon m account soon ran
back nto the house ea ng us to stro about the
garden or an hour b the end o whch m stors
had ost ther sh ness both bo s and grs were
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P T 39
chatterng ute ga and was beng teased or
too anatca a Musm. ke a the Turksh women
whom subse uent had the pr ege o knowng
these grs were absoute rank and eas wth no
oosh ars no ggges and sde-gances. hat we
esteem the nest breedng woud seem to be the
hertage o the whoe race or rch and poor ake
possess t. That and persona beaut are the rue
n m experence.
hen the stors had departed Msket anum
came out agan her hosptabe abours ended and
showed me round the garden as the sun set. er
embarrassment n m socet was st great ob-
ser ng whch ha arded a ueston that was n
m mnd : woud she be wng to rece e m w e
supposng that the atter coud come out and |on
me n a ew weeks tme ow her e es brghtened
ow her tongue was oosed was besought to
sa exact what m w e was ke. Dd she o e
the Turks as dd or mght she not ob|ect to
wearng Turksh dress Msket anum e at
once to pannng resh arrangements n the house
and expedtons to be made when she arr ed. s
we passed b the shed where the gardeners and
other a es rends o thers abode n harmon
she cred to her head man : Madama da gee|ek
Madame aso s comng. nd when the ch o
nght dro e us ndoors she tod the news to
udoxa the Greek handmad who curtse ed and
expressed gra e sats acton.
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40 T T T T M
ut at the e enng mea we were agan em-
barrassed. The mstress and the mad n watng
watched m ace or sgns o anger as each dsh
appeared. The cruca test to be apped to me
t seems was domas ea es stu ed wth rce
and chopped-up meat wth aghurt sour mk b
wa o sauce. uropean t was thought mght
ng t rom hm. hen ths was set be ore me
cred out or |o n ormng them that the had ht
upon m a ourte dsh whereupon both mstress
and mad excamed n one breath : Prase be to
God.
Though ha e no e dence upon the pont do
not anc that the gardener was asked to brng hs
pstos and hs rust scmtar and seep outsde m
bedroom door that nght.
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T G
The road whch ran past Msket anum s garden-
gate ended n one drecton short n a ower
c upon the ea o Marmora n the other t
d ded a suburban townshp eadng out b an
od mos ue and age and some tanged cemeteres
to open countr o a mountan character. Prm-
t e wagons drawn b bu aoes decked wth bue
beads aganst the e e e the stubborn har be-
tween ther horns made brght wth henna countr
carts wth red or eow curtans appng n the
bree e and now and then a we-apponted
uropean carrage passed aong t wendng to or
rom the rawa staton. The amond-trees and
pum-trees were n boom and n the town as
n the countr e er bod carred owers. rom
Msket anum s garden a er ngsh-ookng
path through corn- eds ed down to a tte
harbour consstng o a much dapdated |ett and
some wooden sheds rom whch the ew was o
the Prnce s sands wth ther summer towns set
n a sea as bue as aps a u. ne got the same
ew rom the wooded heghts nand wth the
41
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42 T T T T M
addton o tambou and some more dstant coasts
o urope and o sa. M rst ew da s beng
sunn were spent n exporaton o the neghbour-
hood. There oowed ran and mud and btter
cod when was gad to sta ndoors and work at
Turksh. The mam o the age mos ue taught
me or an hour each da exceptng rda s and
spent much tme n stud b m se o er the da s
newspaper and a dctonar . nce or twce a
week |ourne ed nto town to get m etters. n
boat and tran there was awa s a cotere o persons
rom m age who awa s gathered n the same
coach o the tran the same poston on the
steamer. soon became a recognsed amar o
ths group whch comprsed ex-Mnsters o tate
and hgh o cas o cers empo ed at the arsena
or the Mnstr o ar doctors kho|as and some
|ournasts and heard the war and genera potcs
dscussed n sad or angr tones accordng to the
speaker s ews. The nonsts tthad|ar so
caed rom the ommttee o non and Pro-
gress were sad because the war contnued b ther
part wth the hope o sa ng dranope st
went aganst the Turks. The ta |ar ntente
berae part herena ter caed the beras
upon the other hand were angr at the madness
as the caed t o the nonsts n proongng a
hopeess strugge and bamed them or o erthrow-
ng am Pasha s cabnet upon an empt boast.
soon ound out that part eeng ran extreme
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T G 43
hgh. There were certan peope who woud not
speak to certan others. Men who had been takng
to me n the rendest manner woud sudden
ook gum and edge awa when someone ese drew
near o m ac uantance. Most o m rends were
beras but two or three and those the best
had were nonsts. natura took no sde n
the dspute but stened keen to both partes
wth a ew to ormng an opnon.
ne da when had gone to town upon some
errand seemed to notce a resh atmosphere o
goom about the streets. Meetng a rend asked
hm what had happened. e sad that dranope
t was eared had aen. ad heard the cannon-
ade upon the pre ous da had.. ndeed the
nose o t so near had caused a tte panc o the
ades n our age some o whom bee ng that
the hrstan anatcs had got through the nes
had come to Msket anum as a oregn sub|ect
to mpore her to protect and hde them. e
that cannonade he tod me was a genera attack
on the hata|a nes rea a ent to keep the
Turksh arm bus whe a great combned assaut
was made on dranope. The ugarans had got
the erbs to hep them not to speak o ussan
ounteers and so the town had aen. e re-
peated : ut the news s not et known beggng
me not to menton t as et. ow came t then
that e er bod seemed to know t n board the
boat as went homeward tak was hushed but ran
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44 T T T T M
on nothng ese though there was no menton o
t n the e enng papers. Msket anum had
rece ed the news be ore came and greeted me
wth tears n conse uence.
The tdngs w ere con rmed next mornng.
the papers had t then that hukr Pasha had bown
up the ctade wth hmse and what remaned o
the bra e garrson. bee e t was a dsappont-
ment to a Turks when ths account was contra-
dcted b authort and t was known that hukr
Pasha and the rest woud go to o a as prsoners.
The needed some great crash o herosm or ther
ner es and such a crash mght possb ha e
wakened urope to the act that Turke es
st wth a passonate e unknown n estern
ands.
The gre and rage et or the oss o dranope
b a casses o the Musm popuaton was ntense.
The other terrtores mght conce ab become
good rddance the were mere dependences but
ths w as Turke proper Musm countr . The
oss o Macedona and bana dd not ranke there
was no desre or engeance n regard to that.
ut dranope was another matter. t must be
reganed at a costs. e enge or dranope
was the genera cr . ur house was behnd none
n patrotc ur . M Turksh teacher gente
student that he was and both owed to ounteer
or the re-con uest o the Musm ortress on the
rst occason meanng to march together sde b
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T G 45
sde. Msket anum caed down engeance on
the Powers o urope. Dd the not soemn
decare at the begnnng o the war that no one
shoud gan an terrtor b the ghtng That
was when the thought the Turks mght wn
ur osunar Ma the go bnd
ths ma seem ke madness to the uet
reader. n truth the Turks were maddened b a
ong course o n|ustce. The oss o dranope
was the ast straw. ut the madness soon subsded
once the ow was made and peope setted down
to watch e ents. The cooness o the arm a ter
the rst shout o rage was am tod remarkabe
and omnous. ur bera rends ncned to a
the bame or dranope s a upon the nonsts
who had tred but aed to sa e the ct . ut
Msket anum woud ha e none o t. Then t
was rst dsco ered that she was an ardent
nonst bearng her ath n the oung Turks
ntact amd contnua assauts or amost a her
rends were o the other part . t that tme
ncned a tte -towards the beras rom ha ng
been or some da s che thrown wth them and
spent much tme not unnstruct e n tr ng
to mpress on her the oung Turk errors.
Msket anum s ears o me once ar dsspated
she became an amabe t rant and repro ed m
wa s. had o course a cod or a successon o
cods e er bod has n Turke n the wnter
whch ga e excuse or emnne oppresson Turksh
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46 T T T T M
gentemen and ades were brought n b her to see
me no onger as an unknown terror but as some
wd creature she was proud o ha ng tamed.
othng coud exceed the rendness o these
ac uantances. was admtted u to a tte
crce o ad anced rench-speakng Turks o whch
the ades were permtted to adopt me as a brother
whe the od- ashoned men the ast ma|ort
assured me that ther w es and daughters were
much ookng orward to m w e s arr a. nd
messages were sent to me b women who woud
ha e pershed rather than be seen o me. ne
most exated ad asked me or m opnon upon a
ueston whch had ong been troubng her. he
had been recommended to st wt erand or
her heath. oud t be possbe or her to do so
wearng Turksh dress he had ne er n her e
used go es or corsets and beng eder et not
at a dsposed to pnch her gure or put on a s
hat. ather than sub|ect herse to such ndgnt
she woud reman at home. e antne woman
whom she had consuted had assured her that she
woud be torn n peces dd she enture to appear
n Turksh dress n estern urope. ere the
uropeans rea so anatca
sent a message back through Msket anum to
the e ect that she coud go to wt erand n Turksh
dress wthout the sghtest ear o an nsut greater
than the natura curost o we-bred peope
tra eng as she woud tra e n reser ed com-
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T G 47
partments and stoppng at the best hotes. hope
dd not o er-estmate the est s poteness.
ne mornng was wakng n the garden b the
ake when a ta and er grace u woman came
towards me wearng the back charsha whch as
worn to-da b Turksh ades s a dress o Grecan
beaut . he had her e thrown back. whte-
eed sa e came on behnd her at a studed
dstance a second but more rustc statue. had
turned to ee as decenc en|oned when she m-
pored me n so t wang tones to wat or her.
then perce ed that she was weepng btter .
oud org e her she excamed wrngng her
hands or comng out ke ths to troube me ut
Msket anum had assured her was not -natured
had e en bdden her to come to me. er gre was
er great and coud hep her woud. er
brother-n-aw her sster s husband and the best o
men besdes the greatest genera Turke had had
been reported murdered n bana. The news
was not con rmed. t was a rumour on but t
had been prnted n the e enng papers. er sster
had chanced on t and was now ute prostrate.
oud coud go to Pera or her and nd out
rom uropean sources the news was ase or
true
went at once and asked the mes correspondent
Mr Php Gra es the on ngshman knew who
was ke to ha e n ormaton on the sub|ect
brngng back to those ades hope whch pro ed
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48 T T T T M
aacous. The news o the assassnaton was con-
rmed some sx weeks ater and a that whe the
wretched w e was n suspense. hen at ength
she knew the truth her husband had been our
months dead.
Ths s no soated nstance. n our age there
were man ades who had not heard a word o sons
and husbands or sx months and more who had
no noton where the were whether n capt t
a e and we or dead and bured who on
drank the common ount o news an endess tae
o pestence de eat and massacre. Ther su erngs
can hard be conce ed b ngsh women who
ha e man nterests. or a Musm woman her
husband and her chdren are the whoe o e.
ne o our neghbours who had been a chdess
w e or teen ears et had ne er been suppanted
n her husband s o e woud not bee e the news
when t arr ed that the sad husband had been
ked n batte at the er outset o the war but
e er da expected hs return or news rom hm.
t seems probabe rom what heard and saw that
she w go on thus expectng hm unt her d ng
da . ne o m Turksh ssters had the btter-
ness o hearng that her husband had been hanged
and then soon a ter that her brother had been
murdered n bana. The news n both cases
pro ed ase but t was current or some weeks.
ccasona there were happ endngs to the ong
suspense. m se was wtness o the reappear-
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T G 49
ance o a gant o cer n per ect heath or whom
hs am had mourned or three whoe months.
The ack o surnames made t d cut or peope
to dent ther own reatons n o ca sts o
ked and wounded whch were besdes occasona
and ncompete. ter the second armstce when
news at ast coud be obtaned rom the ost pro-
nces n e er Turksh paper one read coumns o
ad ertsements or o cers and men o whom a
record had been ost. Good Musms o our
hart or ah s o e Good Musms are
extreme ke good hrstans.
Then there were gruesome stores o the massacres.
ad who had ed rom Monastr recounted taes
o cruet the work o akan hrstans whch
made mere cruc xon seem a deed o kndness.
ur nearest neghbour had a cousn n the mad-
house the reason o hs madness beng ths :
e and some other Turksh students o good
am had ounteered or ser ce n the war and
beng a ac uanted kept together. ne nght
the were on outpost dut n a one hut ute
unaware that the orce to whch the were attached
was n retreat when the ound themse es sur-
rounded b ugaran komta|s. The character o
the assaants was so we known that a were panc-
strcken and one who was sma managed to get
nto an empt barre whch was n the hut. The
bo n hdng heard what oowed when the
students had been o erpowered. ou ook
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50 T T T T M
better wthout that nose be e end. Those ps
are much too ong the hde our teeth. nd
now that par o ears those e es that tongue
uch words wth the horrd cr ng o the ctms
st more perhaps hs own terror whch pre ented
hm rom comng out and sharng the ate o those
he o ed dro e the outh n hdng mad not at
the moment or he managed to e uet and escape
but a terwards when he had reached a pace o
sa et .
Mere human rags depr ed o amost a that
makes e sentent ound ther wa to Turke wth
the re ugees. mong a crowd o wretches who
were taken care o on a arm beongng to m rend
adar Mdhat e er gr and oungsh woman
had been oated and chdren o thrteen were
bg wth chd. n our age one saw man
re ugees. t was nothng uncommon at the rawa
staton to send a tra round among persons watng
or the tran on beha o some unhapp nd dua.
ne da when was caed on to contrbute the
ob|ect was a spendd specmen o manhood who
had had hs tongue cut out. thnk too there
was somethng wrong about hs ears but cannot
be ute certan or he wore a hea turban.
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G D
ne e enng when was returnng rom tam eou
got on board the boat some tme be ore t started.
hoosng a seat whence coud see the mos ues and
the od paace ookng down upon the sapphre
water ga wth tte boats began to gance
through the coumns o an e enng paper had
purchased on the ua . s t happened there were
sttng near me two od gentemen aso wth e enng
papers n ther hands who present began ds-
cussng the report theren contaned o a meetng
o pro-Turks n ondon to protest aganst Great
rtan s akan poc . had read the notce o
the meetng n m |ourna so knew at once to what
ther tak re erred. t ran ke ths :
t seems we ha e some rends there as n
rance
e as n rance precse a ew exated sous
ke Perre ot who are persecuted and derded
The ngsh ke the rench are u o words
toeraton humant bert and so on but
when t comes to deeds those words are seen to be
ute empt . The common peope are exceedng
61
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52 T T T T M
anatca and common peope n those ands con-
tro the Go ernment. Pease God the w be
punshed or ther per d . nda s not contented
wth the course a ars are takng.
The sa that ngand has decded to g e up
nda to the ussans some da .
don t g e e paras or that opnon. ngand
w g e up nothng she has ad her hands on. The
ngo- uss aance s but temporar as aganst the
Musms. t s a pure product o anatcsm. s
soon as Persa and the Guarded eams ha e been
sub|ected atogether to a hrstan oke ngand
and ussa w ght urous or the spos.
Ther con ersaton soon meandered o to other
topcs whe watched the ct growng dreamke
as the sun sank. The ew o modern urope as
od hrstendom unted b a anatc hatred o
sam was nothng new to me. Musms hod
t more or ess and the are |ust ed b the whoe
course o recent hstor . The eeng towards us
ngsh who ha e not been among the act e per-
secutors woud not ha e been so er btter among
Turks who are extraordnar phosophca were
t not or our se -rghteousness : the wa our
dpomats our mssonares and man pr ate n-
d duas n Turke ha e o takng as ngand
were a per ect countr wth no potca or soca
e s n arab anmated n ts oregn deahngs b
mot es o humant and abstract |ustce. Man
1 Memak Mahrusah .e. the ttoman mpre.
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G D 53
w ob|ect that to assert the contrar woud be
dso a and to g e awa one s nat e and.
uch ob|ectors are the er persons that ha e n
mnd and b that er thought to g e awa
admt h pocrs . n ngshman once ectured
me or three- uarters o an hour n an g ptan
tran upon the superort o ngand and the
ngsh n a most o ens e tone under the mpres-
son that he was takng as he put t to an n-
tegent nat e. am gad or the good name o
ngand that eo uence or once was thrown awa
upon a eow-countr man. Persona ha ng a
great dske to bombast o the sort am not abo e
con essng mper ecton e en to an rcan. ur
se -rghteousness s prncpa to bame or the
horror whch has ed the ast upon the recru-
descence o the wcked od crusadng sprt n our
mdst du reported b the Turksh and the ndan
Press at a tme when Turke was deser ng o a
human pt . e had taked as anatcsm were
extnct n ngand.
ust when the shore began to gde awa the
steamer backng sow rom the andng-stage n
search o room to turn amd the crowd o boats a
man knew came up to st b me. eeng hm
saute the two od crtcs o the ngsh begged
hm to present me to them. ter some demur
or he decared that the were ute od- ashoned
and unnterestng he comped.
e errng to ther ormer con ersaton about
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54 T T T T M
ngand o erheard h me tred to te them what
thought the truth that the ngsh peope who
re ed Mohammedans dd so rom sheer gnorance
ostered b the Press n whch the Turksh pont o
ew was ne er e en stated whe ong datrbes n
a our o the akan tates were pubshed da .
asked them to sa rank whether the them-
se es n these condtons woud not ha e sded wth
a eague o Musm tates supposng such exsted
aganst a hrstan Power accused o persecutng
Musms at once wthout a second thought o rght
or wrong To ths the both assented er read .
ut what do ou mean the asked b sa ng
t was not permtted to state the case or Turke
n the newspapers as t b order o the Go ern-
ment The pposton woud submt to no such
order. There was no pposton where oregn
a ars were concerned and n e er case t was
probab more apparent than rea con essed and
tred to show the comc sde o part go ernment.
M hearers chucked sa ng that the had ob-
ser ed the same phenomena at home n Turke .
s or the boasted reedom o the Press t had
ceased to be a actor n our natona e through
the aut not o the |ournasts themse es
but o the propretors o |ournas who desrng
honours at the hand o one or other o the two
great partes were amenabe to part dscpne.
Touchng the order aganst pubshng pro-Turksh
matter coud not sa whether t emanated rom
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G D 55
the Go ernment or rom some huge nanca
nterest but that such an order had been ad on
the whoe part Press or man weeks was a act
we known to e er Turcoph n ngand. The
rends o Turke numbered man thousands and
were most to be ound among the educated casses.
ut the had ne er been aowed a pubc hearng.
s ar as was aware the on paper n a ngand
whch had pubshed an thng ke a u statement
o the case was The ew ge a week ndependent
|ourna much too outspoken to be wde read.
Ma sh ah the excamed wth a short
augh. Then our countr s not per ect as
the awa s te us. There are auts and draw-
backs n exstence there as here
xact reped and aso crme and gnor-
ance. ur eaders are not awa s o the rst
ntegence. The sometmes make mstakes and
dare not own them. ur peope are tenacous o
od pre|udces. e are upon the whoe a most
unamabe naton composed o ute we-meanng
nd duas.
hen the two od gentemen perce ed that
though m tone was ppant was rea earnest
n apoogsng or m countr s angs the at
once began to d er rom me pontng out nstances
o rtsh uprghtness ntegence puck amabt
and what not e nced n past a ars o Turke and
the more harped on our n rmtes the more
enthusastc the became. hen parted rom
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6 T T T T M
them n the crowd at adar Pasha the were
chatterng together eager ng wth each other
n pro- rtsh ardour. ngand the peope
not the Go ernment w stand b Turke we are
sa ed. t s ngand s turn to ussa that has
been our death-bow. There s no other countr
n the word where pubc opnon s so ree
and so power u. on the ngsh woud
behod us as we are a peope struggng to be
somethng nobe n the word the woud be rend
us though we are Mohammedans. The are not
rea such anatcs as the erbs and ugars. nd
the woud nd us grate u ar more grate u than
the hrstans.
Those were some o the remarks to whch was
obged to sten. nd the were spoken earnest
not n the smooth and ower anguage o con-
enton whch supposng that the had not
et ncned to ght woud ha e haed a oud
per ormance on the rtsh trumpet. n the
tran came agan upon the rend who ha ng
per ormed the ntroducton had sat stenng to
our con ersaton hepng me wth words when
needed. e beckoned me to come and st besde
hm and at once began :
hat ou sad to those two od e ends was
prett but ou know as we as do that our
Go ernment s er ce er and does not take part
aganst the Musms rom stupdt . ook at r
Gre or nstance s he not a er ce er man
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G D 57
sad that had not the honour o hs persona
ac uantance but was assured that he came o a
er good am and was consdered to mantan
the best tradtons o the ouse o ommons n
hs speech and bearng.
e chucked and ooked hard at me a mnute.
e he sad ou w not den that the
beras are the anatcs the onser at es the
progress e and enghtened part n our countr .
The beras hate the Musms and woud we-
come ther extermnaton. e ha e seen t man
tmes n m remembrance. There ore t s a great
ms ortune or the Musm word that a bera
Go ernment shoud ha e hed the power n ngand
at ths great crss o our ate.
wshed some beras at home n ngand coud
ha e heard hm.
The beras answered mght be caed the
ngsh as opposed to the mpera part he nter-
rupted wth : tod ou the were anatcs
that s the ga e to home a ars the rst pace
and whe not negectng coona and oregn
busness woud not aow t the mportance whch
onser at es ascrbed to t. n act the hard
ewed the rtsh mpre as a whoe but as ngand
and a number o dependences. There was some-
thng to be sad or that opnon snce ngand
st was head and at a tme when as at present
she was on the erge o a great soca re outon
the Go ernment mght be excused or beng deep
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8 T T T T M
occuped wth home a ars. a ng assgned the
oregn ce to a hgh respectabe man beo ed
o the pposton thus precudng troube n that
uarter the had hoped to hear no more o t.
The akan war had been a great dstress to them
and there was not a man among them capabe o
deang bra e wth the greater probems whch t
rased. Ther so-caed poc had been to dr t
aong rom da to da trmmng ther sas to e er
wnd that bew or seemed about to bow and
through t a the had been hampered b ther od
tradton whch had made o the ugaran and
rmenan massacres a part cr to rouse anatcsm
a anatcsm whch st ed and whch the
coud not now contro.
That s precse w hat tod ou. The are
the anatcs sad m rend. ow sten
The are dong untod harm to ngand senseess .
t must be cear to e er bod o ntegence that
Turke s no danger to an Power o urope at the
present tme. ut ussa w become ere ong a
genera danger. h support her n her great
crusade aganst us and hep her to ncrease her
power There s another danger whch ou know
as we as do. ot unt the ast Musm Power
has aen under hrstan rue w the samc
word be reunted n a eague o e and death
and the great re ot begn. e do not want ths.
e consder t woud be a great dsaster or the
Musms and the word at arge whch shoud
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G D 59
ad ance towards peace and un ersa toeraton.
ut urope seems to wsh to orce t on us. . . .
wonder how much ussa spends upon our
present Mnstr
sad that bee ed our Mnsters to be exampes
o ntegrt . e on shook hs head and sghed :
ho knows
e need the hep o ngshmen he sad
a ter a pause not o the rtsh Go ernment but
ngshmen n our endea our to rase up the
peope. our nd duas are spendd there s no
den ng and we coud trust them to dea ar
wth a g en charge. ut the rtsh Go ernment
s treacherous as we ha e seen a hundred tmes.
t ma be as ou sa the natura conse uence o a
democrac but our Go ernment s athess
nconsstent.
sad that there was probab no ng ngsh-
man who dd not n hs heart dstrust the rtsh
Go ernment e en though t represented hs own
part ews athough to oregners we a uphed
t rom a sense o patrotc dut .
admre that he excamed. oud to
God our peope dd the same thng when abroad.
nstead the grow enamoured o the countr the
are stng and pour contempt upon the name o
Turke . M rend ma remark had ne er
been to urope. hen the come home agan
the are nsu erabe. The woud ater e er -
thng upon the mode o the countr the admre.
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6o T T T T M
The ha e no dea o the aue o natona character
to a peope struggng or exstence. The con-
ound patrotsm wth anatcsm a boneess cosmo-
potansm th enghtenment. The cause s n
the ack o educaton not mere nstructon out o
books but educaton n the strct regous sense.
ou ngsh ha e preser ed t ou are er wse
e paused or ha a mnute and then sghed :
G e us a do en o our oung admnstrators or
a term o ears
asked what cause he had or thnkng that
ngshmen woud ser e the needs o Turke better
than an other uropeans. e answered that the
men o other uropean natons when empo ed
b Turke remaned the ser ants o ther
Go ernments aganst the Turks whereas t
seemed to be a pont o honour wth the nd-
dua ngshman rom what he coud hear
to be true to hs empo er aganst a the
word.
ut renchmen make as o a mercenares
contended.
es he agreed the woud not cheat us on
a bargan. ut the rench m rend ha e ths
pecuart : that e er renchman s a mssonar
o hs countr s anguage rregon soca chaos.
The ngsh ess attract e and ess amabe sa ng
our presence are the better educators. The do
not make ther pups wsh to become ngshmen
but b means o dscpne and the natura oppos-
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G D 6
ton t arouses enabe them to de eop strong
character.
nd the Germans n ured when he had
nshed speakng.
e had b ths tme aghted rom the tran and
were wakng n the twght down the a enue o
ne acacas whch ed past both our houses to the
sea.
e ke the Germans he reped wth a short
augh. th a tte practce and nstructon
the make ute good Turks. ut the are too
per as e. e are much a rad o them desrng
as we do to keep our countr .
pon a pause he added : as t e er struck
ou that German and ussa ha e a secret under-
standng Thnk t o er
th these words he e t me turnng n at hs
own gate.
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PT
G D -P T
ne mornng rece ed a note rom aat e
askng me to go and see hm snce he coud not come
to me. ound hm rather serous . e spoke
o a desre to go to ce mmedate as hs doctor
tod hm he re ured a hoda wth change o ar
and aso counseed a sght operaton whch the
patent thought woud be more sk u per ormed
n rance. e asked me was there an thng that
he coud do or me be ore he went assured hm
there was nothng he had done too much aread
but n the course o our subse uent con ersaton
chanced to menton that the akan massacres o
Musms were beng dened b wrters n the
ngsh Press. showed hm newspaper cuttngs
whch had rece ed one rom the Tmes ad-
mttng that there had been murders but not more
than were customar n a war are. The wrter
put the number remember rght at 600
on the authort o some mparta uropean
name omtted who had ate sted the scenes
and made n ures. shoud ha e ked sad
to wrte a st rep to ths concocton but acked
62
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G D -P T 63
other authort than the pubshed Turksh reports
whch were treated n the Tmes and esewhere
as preposterous. t was useess to app to the
Go ernment whch seemed to ha e accepted
whoesae saughter o Mohammedans as part o
the xed poc o urope. descrbed an nter-
ew wth the Mnster o the nteror n whch
a ter hearng a had to sa s xceenc had
begged me to resgn m se . The Turks had
pubshed u reports o the atroctes up to the
end o December and the ngsh doubted those
reports the woud doubt an thng. t was a
part prs he begged me to bee e and not to
beat m heart and brans out on a wa o du
anatcsm. n person o magnaton he as good
as sad who aowed hs mnd to dwe on the n-
|ustce n ts mora and regous bearng must go
mad. aat sad he woud consder o the matter
and as soon as he coud get about agan woud tr
and hep me.
nd here t ma not be amss to sa a genera
word concernng massacres. t s a sub|ect on
whch no one ought to speak or wrte who has not
persona knowedge o the peopes o the ear ast
and some ac uantance wth Mohammedan and
Turksh hstor . t sets the renta student s
teeth on edge to hear some worth ngsh petst
as gnorant as a urd n a such matters rasng
the hue and cr aganst the Turks on hrstan
grounds. ur co-regonsts n Turke su ered
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64 T T T T M
under dsabtes no greater than were ormer
endured b oman athocs n ngand ndeed
ess hea snce the were aowed to worshp n
ther own wa and to manage the a ars o ther
communons ree . Pr eges were secured to
them. There was ne er an thng n Turke ke
the res o mth ed. The Musms had so exce-
ent a name n ths respect that the antne
Greeks pre erred the utan to a atn con ueror.
e ore the nneteenth centur when the sub|ect
hrstans stmuated rom wthout began ther
ght or ndependence massacres o peace u
hrstans b Mohammedans were practca un-
known whereas the name o erbs and ugars
was a b word or atroct n medae a urope.
ur own rusaders deemed t honess to massacre
men women and chdren o the peopes the
accounted n des or e en heretcs. hat made
the gnorant among the Musms adopt ths custom
o the medae a hrstans whch the better sort
detest as much as we do and thnk rregous
bee e the answer to be oregn nter erence o a
s and woundng nature on beha o nat e
hrstans to the detrment o the Mohammedans
nter erence whch has worn the ook o persecuton
n the Musm s e es. ow man hrstans ha e
the candour or the curost to take or a moment
an ob|ect e ew o hrstendom to stand outsde
ts con nes and admre t wth the astern word
er snce the hstorc nter ew o Peter the
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G D -P T 65
Great wth antmr o ode o aacha when
the atter tod the ar what pro t mght wth
patence be der ed rom a cose stud o the
pr eges o se -go ernment en|o ed b hrstans
n the Turksh mpre ussa has been stead at
work to run Turke b tamperng wth Turksh
hrstans and arousng ther anatcsm. xcept
n two cases when massacres were per ormed b
sa age urds at the drect command o bdu
amd a utan whom the Turks themse es
deposed wth gnomn or hs cruet e er
massacre has been deberate pro oked. The
astern hrstans schooed b ussa know the
mnd o estern urope and the use o massacres
to waken s mpath and ha e used them as a
potca weapon as ruthess as dd bdu amd.
Take the nstance o the ugaran atroctes o
1876 to whch the attenton o ngand was rst
caed b the er d etters o the Da ews cor-
respondent n onstantnope. The were com-
mtted b wd bash-bo ouks when engaged n
puttng down a genera rsng panned b ussa
whch rsng began wth a massacre o Musms.
Mr a ert ce-consu at Phppopos wrote on
ugust 29 o that ear : The hrstan om-
mssoners one o whom o antcho end s
hmse a ugaran state themse es to be sats ed
that deeds o great atroct marked the commence-
ment o the rsng n Ma ast and that cruetes
were desgned commtted b the nsurgents a3
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66 T T T T M
beng the means best cacuated to brng on a
genera re outon n ugara b renderng the
stuaton o the hrstans howe er peaceab -
ncned so ntoerabe under the ndscrmnate
retaaton whch the go ernng race was sure to
attempt as to orce them n se -de ence to rse.
t s the hstor o Musm anatcsm. ussa
had ne er exsted or at east had ne er nter ered
n Turksh potcs ttoman Musms and ttoman
hrstans mght ong ere ths ha e ormed a happ
and progress e naton. Ths s wh the Turcoph
has awa s et a tte nausea when decent
ngsh peope caed or the destructon o the
Turks upon the score o massacres and ths s
wh was so anxous to obtan e dence su cent
to con nce m eow-countr men that were
possbe n ace o so robust a pre|udce that the
worst o hrstans were at east as bood as the
worst o Musms.
aat was as usua e en better than hs word.
n the rda oowng that con ersaton he came
to etch me to a rend s kosk where one o the
most n uenta members o the ommttee o
non and Progress was expectng us. e ore a
house whch ooked as t had sprung up b
chance n the mdde o waste and be ond the
rawa n the shade o a ew ragged r-trees a
good compan o men some o them n e es and
the back rock-coat others n turbans and wde-
owng robes were sttng out on chars n a wde
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G D -P T 67
crce smokng and con ersng peace u . rose
at our approach. The host whom aread knew
ad anced to meet us and ntroduced me to the
on o the da . hars were brought out or us
co ee oowed cgarettes were o ered b a do en
hands. he aat was expoundng me to the
arge crce had esure to obser e the t pes com-
posng t. The were a od- ashoned Turks
on aat and m e t-hand neghbour the great
man knew an rench and the were a nonsts.
M bera rends who were ute rench n
educaton spoke awa s o the nonsts as ant-
Turksh. ere was matter or re ecton
The great man ha ng heard what aat had to
sa turned round to me and asked what exact t
was that re ured. e was a er port nd-
dua wth one o the most sensbe and knd
aces ha e e er seen. expaned that an mpor-
tant person n the Go ernment had promsed me
spec c n ormaton but had aed to send t.
ow ong ha e ou been watng he
n ured.
x weeks.
t that hs xceenc ushed wth anger and
wshed to take me o at once to see the maapert
n ueston.
rom such hot acton dssuaded hm protestng
that had no gre ance and dd not see that an -
thng but unpeasant eeng coud come o a second
nter ew wth one who had aread aed me. e
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68 T T T T M
then hed consutaton wth some kho|as seated on
hs other hand who expressed strong ndgnaton
upon m account and turnng towards me once
agan n ured had an thng to do upon the
morrow. earng o he sad that one o the
kho|as woud ca or me at ee en o cock next
mornng and escort me to tambou to a meetng
o the ounc o tate. The kho|a chosen or m
gude rose and sauted n a rend manner.
returned the compment. o t was setted.
Then our host proposed that we shoud take a
wak n order to promote dgeston and pro-
posed that Msket anum s garden whch had
o ten been ad|ured to treat as mne shoud be our
goa. The a seemed peased.
stara the chosen ower o satc Turke
was n rot. t tumbed o er garden was swung
down rom bacones on to the road and roed
abo e the roo s o humbe dwengs. ts coour
n such masses per ect set o the wooden houses
whose tnt s a decate do e-gre a tte shn
whe ts habt suted the Mongoan st e o most
o them. The son o an outdoor ca e roo ed
wth t wth great estoons down-hangng n the
orm o an arcade remans wth me. e paused
to ook at t. The shade wthn where customers
sat round on stoos was green the coour o the
under-ea es whereas the aces peerng out at us
were ghted wth a mau e re ecton rom the
hangng owers. ed the wa wth the great man
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G D -P T 69
who beng as sad be ore exceedng stout pro-
ceeded at a dgn ed sow pace whch was obser ed
regous h those behnd us. e o ten paused
to mop hs orehead or the da was hot to g e
attenton to some word o mne or prod some
tr ng ob|ect wth hs cane and hs dong so woud
stop the whoe processon whch was ute a ong
one and mposng to |udge rom a the oks who
stood to watch t. Thus t took us near an hour
to pass the rawa at the e e crossng and descend
thence b the a enue to m abode a dstance an
abe-boded man coud co er n ten mnutes eas
wakng. t ast howe er we were a n Msket s
garden. The mstress o the pace came out n
transports o deght to wecome the n ason when
once had n ormed her that t was nonst.
hars were ound and the whoe part setted down
to tak and smoke and drnk resh water and rea s
o co ee. ewcomers rom know not where
kept sweng the aread mght compan or
as a terwards heard the news had gone through
a the age a great stronghod o the beras
that the part o non and Progress had somehow
got possesson o the nghsh e and was hodng
a great counc o er hm n Msket anum s garden.
t once e er nonst man ran out to |on the con-
ca e as n dut bound whe beras o m
ac uantance gathered round us n dsma and
hdng n the shrubberes ooked daggers drawn at
the ntruders. Man o the compan ound
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T T T T M
knew rabc whereas m bera rends despsed
that cassc anguage and studed on uropean
tongues. e sat takng n the garden underneath
the trees unt the ch o sunset came when the
whoe concourse wandered sow to the rawa
staton bowered n wstara to see the great man
o . e was returnng to tambou that e enng.
hen came back rom per ormng ths sma dut
o poteness ound the scene o m ate garden-
part hed aganst me b a re oted group o ades
o the bera persuason. e nce rends
had made t was e dent that ked the gross
ca|oer o crmnas o the owest cass The
had been watchng them through the ea es de s-
ng wa s o kng them. That monstrous at od
horror the had thought o drownng n the ake
on the eared that he mght cause the ake to
o er ow and ood the garden not to speak o
posonng the rogs and god sh. hat rapture t
woud be one o these da s to go and see those
bodes swngng ga rom gbbets on the rdge.
That da was near at hand the begged to te me.
Ther tone though mockng had a snar n t
whch much surprsed me or those ades were the
gentest sous magnabe and the men o whom
the showed such btter hatred had mpressed me
as straght orward and bene oent. treated the
whoe matter as a |oke and when the sought to
know how had aen nto such bad compan
n ented se era ar taes be ore con essng that
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G D -P T 71
m am was to get n ormaton on the Macedonan
horrors whch mght enabe me to sence certan
ant-Musms. hen that con esson came at
ength the a acknowedged was |ust ed.
ut we coud get ou better n ormaton
someone cred.
Much curost was expressed about m expe-
dton on the morrow. eturnng rom t
was ped wth eager uestons. ut as those
uestons seemed to ndcate a wsh to rdcue
men who had shown me kndness mere stated
that had been sats ed. n act had earnt
nothng that had not known be ore nothng at
east to |ust a resh campagn but had been
shown enough to pro e be ond a doubt that
nether the Turksh Go ernment nor an nd dua
Turk had n ented or e en knowng exaggerated
an thng n the reports o massacres whch had
been ssued b the ommttee or the Pubcaton
o the akan troctes.
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PT
M D
M Turksh teacher one o the earned n regon
who ser ed a age mos ue and taught a age
schoo besdes nstructng a ew rch men s chdren
pr ate n the scrptures stng the sck o cat-
ng at crcumcsons weddngs uneras n short
u ng er much the unctons o a parsh prest
though the noton o a presthood s abhorrent to
sam was a staunch nonst. had been warned
when he was recommended to me that must not
ook or punctuat n hs attendance as hs regous
dutes must o course take precedence o m re-
urements. n the da when he was to come to
teach me or the rst tme Msket anum
remember was much amused at m expectng hm
at a g en hour. he uoted man nstances o
Turksh agueness. pup o her own she ga e
ngsh rench and German essons as a a our to
the chdren o her rends who took hs esson
usua n the mdde o the mornng had once
turned up at 6 a.m. and knockng up the house
had camed nstructon as hs rght. gr whose
esson was at three woud thnk t a the same to
72
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M D 73
come at e and so on. ome were as reguar as
uropeans but the were the excepton. M
kho|a was not ke to be partcuar about an
hour owe er he arr ed exact at the tme
apponted and kckng o hs sppers at the door-
step where met hm ooked at hs watch and
caed attenton to the act wth rght u prde. e
was a man o thrt o a heath resh compexon.
s bo sh e es had an engagng ook o gra e sm-
pct as he stroked hs trm back beard and
studed m appearance rank . was the rst
uropean wth whom he had e er con ersed and
ar rom ndng hm unpunctua or n an wa
per unctor n hs attendance must sa that he
came awa s at the hour apponted and sta ed
much onger than was n our contract whch was
or an hour a da . e o ten sta ed three hours
and sometmes more. ndeed nd t true o
Turks n genera that though unpunctua and
a o er casua a ars when nterested n a
busness the ose count o tme and so as
uropeans sa de raud themse es snce tme s
mone .
M kho|a was astonshed at the com ort o the
house whch was ute pan as |udged b ngsh
standards and e n raptures wth the garden
whch he re uent compared to Paradse. The
song o the nghtngaes suggested to hm erses o
the poets as aso dd the wnd n the trees the
shade the sght o owers or rpenng rut the
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74 T T T T M
hum o bees or other natura phenomena or whc
he ne er ceased to prase the great reator o the
word.
t rst he brought me or our studes an od-
ashoned prmer whch began wth the aphabet
and ended wth an exposton o the Musm
caendar together wth some mora and regous
stores. Ths we read together whe he ndcated
wth a ponter e er word. e was apoogetc
rom the rst about ths book or me admttng
there were better works upon the market. hen
next he went to town he sad he woud procure
some o them as he had ong desred to do or the
re urement o hs tte schoo. had aread
se era o m own procurng ndeed had started
a coecton o modern Turksh schoobooks under
the gudance o m Pera teacher who had been
anxous that shoud examne the new course o
educaton but these he sad were too ad anced
or us to start on. There was a proper adder to
be cmbed up whch no step must be omtted
b an adut an more than b a chd. e had
hs s stem. nd n the nter as o work we
capped oranc texts or taked o the da s
news.
t ast one mornng he brought me a sma
parce o schoobooks one o whch entted tun
tab the Goden ook he sad was spendd.
e at once began to work at t but as read
must con ess that was ed wth pous horror.
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M D 75
t began harmess enough wth prases o schoo
and dgence n stud re erence to parents o e
o rends and brethren. ut when proceedng
read statements ke the oowng coud on
gasp and ask m teacher what t meant
Tme s Mone .
To waste no mnute o our tme but awa s
work means mone . hoe er recognses tme
as mone awa s has hs pockets u o mone .
The a to Grow ch.
ose n had reso ed to become rch. ose n
dd not as greed chdren do spend a the mone
whch hs parents ga e hm at the sweetshop or at
the rut-seer s. e ked to sa e mone . e
was awa s sa ng : can on sa e a me|d
sha cause t to ncrease sha ha e ound the
wa to become rch. . . . ose n had reso ed
to work at a trade and n that wa to become
rch. o ose n s mone -box was ed wth
ten-paster peces. hen t came to openng t he
ound much mone .
th ths mone he purchased a sma basket.
Ths basket he ed nsde wth matches paper
pens and such ke tr es. e went to the ba aar.
degrees he became a good seer. ew ears
a terwards he took a shop wth pate-gass wndows
whch he stocked wth ner merchandse. such
means he became the owner o a great emporum.
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e T T T T M
To-da the argest store n a the markets
s hs propert . e s rch and at hs ease.
o great rches thus arse rom tte sa ngs.
ne has on to sa e mone and then use t n
a trade.
The sa that god s a eow snake whch btes
the bod . prett sa ng ut n the strugge
o e we need t as a weapon. th that we can
o ercome e er ad ersar e en ortune and gan
such a ctor that tme w appaud us sa ng
e done
To grnd the wheat to our o whch we make
our bread ms are necessar . Ms are o three
knds. ne turns b wnd another b water and
the thrd b steam. The wnd and water ms
work sow . The steam ms uck make
uanttes o our and natura or ths reason
gan much mone . n the uture ou shoud
desre to do a ser ce work to become the master
o a bg steam m. ths means er man ha e
grown rch.
There was much more to the same purpose. n
short the whoe book seemed as ar as we had gone
to be a work o Mammon perncous aganst true
regon. protested to m kho|a that t put ths
transtor word abo e the other and made no
menton o the power o God. th dgnt he
bade me wat unt we reached the end and n
act towards the end there were some passages o a
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M D 77
regous tendenc . The ast thng n the book was
ths sma parabe entted
smet.
Do not sten to such empt sa ngs as e
that was not m ate smet . hat was n
hs ate came out n hs spoon. er bod s ate
s one and awa s present. God g es the ate o
each nto hs own charge. e one da when on
hs wa to schoo met a grape-seer. The bunches
hangng rom the edge o the basket were extreme
ne. e onged or the ne grapes. e wshed
to bu twent paras worth. The seer o the
grapes was an aged ruterer. ter weghng the
grapes on the scaes he ga e them nto e s hand.
e took the grapes but sppng somehow rom
hs hand the e nto the mud. The od grape-
seer seeng the grapes thus aen n the mud was
er gre ed. Poor e tred to nd some con-
soaton b sa ng to the grape-seer : e t
was not m ate.
The grape-seer reped : t was our ate
but ou dd not know how to take t e
pondered much upon that word. rom the grape-
seer s remark he understood that e er thng n the
word s man s ate. n e er opportunt must
be taken. nd he must know how to work.
e sad m teacher now do ou under-
stand the purpose o ths book
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78 T T T T M
dd not atogether con essed or n spte o
the sound sense o ths ast parabe and a tte pet -
n used towards the end the tte work appeared to
me to preach the ath o Mammon God o
urope whch hate ke a good Musm. M
kho|a then n ormed me was too anatca. e
n ted me to put apart a pre|udce and then
consder whether whe hrstendom had gone too
ar n wordness sam mght not ha e gone too
ar n careessness o mundane thngs. God the
mght Maker o the ord he sad dd not
ntend good men to ea e the word asde resgnng
ts a ars to rascas and to unbee ers. Ths coud
be pro ed rom crpture wheren rues were ad
down or the conduct o the ath u n the market-
pace the seat o power the batte ed and so on.
et that was what had happened n the Guarded
ngdoms and esewhere.
egous peope were unpractca and o ed re-
trement. The spoke o mone as a cause o sn
and n ther hearts despsed the rch and power u.
The were oth to medde n a ars wth the
resut that there was nothng e t to check the
ambton and the a arce o e doers. ths
was named as the resut though t mght wth
e ua |ustce ha e been caed the cause o ther
sub|ecton to unbrded despotsm. uch a des-
potsm was aganst the teachng o sam whch
stood or mutua responsbt o go ernor and
go erned or e ua opportunt and act e ct en-
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M D 79
shp. as t not natura that re ormers aced wth
such nerta shoud tr n the pubc schoos to
rouse the schoars to persona endea our The
che need o the Musm popuaton was prospert
whch coud on be attaned b means o pr ate
weath. nd as the hope o gan or hgh pre er-
ment had awa s n a natons been the che
ncent e to exerton was t not reasonabe that
n these nstructons mone shoud be g en the
mportance whch t actua has measure o
ambton or desre o gan ma be desrabe assoc-
ated wth o e o countr merc |ustce and con-
sderaton or the need a whch rtues were
had degned to notce taught as essenta n
ths Goden ook. was urther bdden to re-
member that the work n ueston was not desgned
excus e or use n Musm schoos. t mght
be read n schoos where Musms ews and
hrstans sam and ts two branches studed
sde b sde. t woud there ore be un ar these
chdren beng at the teacher s merc to g e
nstructon there too strong a Musm tone. The
rch men o the present generaton he asserted
were useess to the countr as a rue. The had
ganed ther weath b punderng the countr
and now cung to t regardess o the countr s
need. ow much had been g en b the rch or
natona de ence and how much b the poor e
coud n orm me. er rch men ndeed had sub-
scrbed exact one pound Turksh whe porters
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8o T T T T M
n the streets ga e a ther sa ngs. The present
rch or most o them had battened on the and n
amdan da s and now ther on thought was
to preser e ther gans sooner than part wth whch
the woud he er bee ed at an tme betra
the countr to the ar o ussa. t was necessar
to create new weath new cuture new ntegence
out o the common peope a o them pease
God b educaton. M teacher concuded ths
ong exposton wth a pra er to God that a the
peopes and regons o the mpre mght present
be brought together n one naton and dwe to-
gether on an e ua ootng n mutua respect and
o e.
Ths con ersaton took pace n the garden when
our esson was concuded or the da and as
escorted m pro essor a terwards upon hs homeward
road. ter ea ng hm whe retraced m steps
through corn eds sopng to the sea wth summer
paaces n gardens here and there among them
et hope u or the uture o the Turksh mpre
urope woud but g e the and a ew ears
peace. ut there were other and nterna d -
cutes n the wa o that trumphant course o
genera progress or whch m Musm kho|a worked
and pra ed. these had a prett sharp remnder
mmedate on m return to Msket anum s
garden.
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PT
TT M G
n Msket anum s garden ound stors. T ree
bare-headed bare- aced back-hared come
madens were wth m hostess on a seat beneath
the deodars. Msket had taked to me about them
pre ous . The were Greeks rom a age up
the osphorus earess se -respectng grs who
earned a modest ng b ther work as dressmakers
|ourne ng rom house to house. t one tme the
had gone to hrstan houses on but atter
b Msket anum s recommendaton - had worked
or Turks as we. s the themse es n ormed
me the were petted b the Turksh ades and
treated b the men wth a respect. et the
dared not et ther parents know that the had e er
been empo ed n Musm houses. ad the act
been but suspected n ther age the woud ha e
been ostracsed perhaps stoned or gnorant
hrstans are as anatca as gnorant Musms.
nat e hrstan gr who marres a Mohammedan s
ked as a sacred dut b her nearest reat es
the can get at her. n the steamer on whch m
w e and tra eed to Marsees at the end o
P 81
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82 T T T T M
u there was such a gr among the steerage
passengers. er brothers had begued her nto
accompan ng them to merca where her Musm
husband was aread tr ng to make mone . t
Marsees the per ormed her murder n a curous
open manner seemng to thnk the deed woud be
appauded n a hrstan countr .
These Greek dressmakers there ore ga e t out
at seasons when the were empo ed n Turksh
houses that the were workng or a uropean
Msket anum who thus ac ured a reputaton or
extra agance and o e o ner . The ga e her
house as ther address n case o etters and gener-
a came to sta there n the nter as o work
Msket anum ke the Turksh ades keepng
open house or women. et though the owned
to beng much ndebted to the Turks or kndness
the hated them as dsco ered present and
dd not see how an Musm coud rea be regarded
b a hrstan as a eow-creature.
eeng me n a e the took me or a Turk at
rst and were gong to wthdraw when Msket
anum ntroduced me wth a touch o mace as
an ngshman who much pre erred the Turks to
Greeks etcetera. t that the a broke out :
t was mpossbe uropean coud not rea
ke the Turks hat was there n them to n-
spre a kng The were good-natured tru
so were man anmas. ut were the not bar-
barans and crue anatca Dd the not keep
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TT M G 83
ther women n secuson n a word the were
not hrstans. ow coud an one pre er them
s a return or Msket anum s tte thrust a three
decared ther rm bee that wore that hate u
head-dress and pretended to o e Turks t was
smp rom terror o m hostess who mght other-
wse ha e turned me out o doors.
h what ha e ou aganst the Turks
cred Msket anum. s t not true that when
our ather s house was burnt one nght the Turks
and not our precous hrstan brethren took ou
n and got up a subscrpton or ou
That was true the grs admtted the Musms
o ten dd knd actons whch howe er coud not
bnd a hrstan to ther utter and essenta
wckedness the product o a ase regon. t was
known that the esteemed t honess to k a
hrstan when the got the chance. s or ths
poor wanderng ngshman how shoud he know
an thng about them ha ng |ust arr ed t was
e dent that he took hs cue rom present compan
or peace.
t ths pont was mo ed to sa that knew
somethng o Mohammedans ha ng spent a great
part o m e wth them. asked these grs to
g e a snge nstance o Mohammedan anatcsm
not hearsa but ther own experence. The two
eder appeared dsconcerted b the pont-bank
ueston but the oungest nothng daunted
answered hot :
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84 T T T T M
ha e heard them ca out ghaour behnd
me n the pubc street. The horror o ths
accusaton hard reached me. t resembed that
made b the hrstans o an te ano to M. aus-
anne when he was n urng o the conduct o
raw Turksh troops rom sa who had encamped
there h the thousand durng man weeks : hock-
ng ne o them kssed a gr the other da .
had to strugge wth a strong desre to augh be ore
rep ng : That s nothng. ha e been stoned
b Musms more than once.
Ther astonshment at that remark was er
great.
nd et ou ke them t s hard possbe.
ou are |okng certan . h shoud the ha e
stoned ou nd the stoned ou serous
how dd ou escape
assured them was er ar rom |okng. The
thng had happened to me once n ebron once n
a age northward rom erusaem and three or
our tmes n the Musm uarter o e rout
whch eghteen ears ago was er rough ndeed.
M on crme had been to wear an ug ngsh
hat.
o that s wh ou wear a e at present s t
sneered the edest o the grs ne ertheess she
begged me to proceed wth m narraton and sa
how escaped rom those anatcs.
ot beng a nat e hrstan n ormed her and
there ore not ha ng anatcsm on the bran on
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TT M G 85
each occason had ooked upon the stonng mere
as a pece o mpudence n o ng danger to m
horse and me. smp rode m horse at the
assaants desrng to know what the meant b
throwng stones at us and n arab was sup-
ported b the sense o |ustce o the crowd. nce
n the outskrts o e rout a rend who was wth
me had |ust thrashed the rngeader a bo about
teen wthn an nch o hs e when the ather
o that bo wth other eders came upon the scene.
The men were u armed. e ooked or troube.
ut no sooner had tod our tae to the newcomers
than the ather pounced upon hs son and admns-
tered a second hdng st more aw u than the
rst. hen the dscerned the mora o m tae
the three grs brded hgh and dsdaned t
obser ng that the case o uropeans was entre
d erent. The edest dropped a bre concus e
word to the e ect that Musms were not hrstans
so coud not be toerated. he then turned to
Msket anum and n the same ch tone congratu-
ated her on ha ng ound a guest a ter her own
heart.
had man subse uent opportuntes o stud ng
the pont o ew o ordnar Greeks or these grs
were o ten n the house and our cook was aso Greek
and ond o argument. ne er ceased to mar e at
ts pure anatcsm. The rea ked the Turks
o ther ac uantance that s to sa ther own
experence woud ha e made them toerant but
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86 T T T T M
or the nstructon whch the had rece ed rom
prest and parents n whch the hurred took
re uge accused o such a kng. The were
gente grs ncapabe o harmng an one et
ha e heard them earnest mantan that the great
persecuton o Mohammedans at that tme gong on
n Macedona was |ust ed upon regous grounds
though the changed ther tune drect t was
known that the Greeks had su ered too. ome
Turksh men who sted our house habtua
took deght n teasng them unt the showed
anatcsm. Then the woud turn to me and sa :
ma ng s t not n ths centur ut a
Greeks wthout excepton are ke that.
The Greeks o Turke were not awa s ke that.
od when ther women eed ke the Turksh
women when ther men wore e and turban ke
the Turksh men there was no such btterness
between the two regons. the are ke that
to-da t s the outcome o a centur and more
o ant-Turksh propaganda rst ussan then
eenc. ow man Turksh sub|ects ha e thus
cunnng and patent been traned to be a barrer
to Turksh progress to pre ent the reasaton o
m Musm kho|a s dream o peace and goodw
There s an aspect o ths hrstan ueston
whch has not been touched upon b an wrter
that know o . t s the utter hepessness o the
hrstan sub|ects o the Porte be ore the Musms
as compared wth ther mmense pretensons.
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TT M G 87
Ther prde s not n what the ha e ache ed
themse es but n what ther co-regonsts ha e
done or them. The ha e seen pro nce a ter
pro nce taken b the Powers rom Turke and
made nto an ndependent hrstan tate and the
gor n each oss to Turke as ther ctor or-
gettng that but or the nter erence o the Powers
Turke woud ha e ost no terrtor n urope or
she ost t or a moment woud ha e soon reganed
t. the ache ements o the estern word n
e er ed the cam as thers upon the score o
hrstant . The ha e assmated themse es n
dress and manners to the uropeans who ha e
estabshed pr eges n the ttoman domnons
and ncne to cam those pr eges on the strength
o mere resembance. hen one remembers that
these peope are the con uered race and that the
constant announce themse es as uture con-
uerors wth tak o turnng a o a nto a church
agan and crownng a new onstantne be ore ts
atar t s a wonder that the hatred shoud appear
on one sde on . et so t s. The Turks dske
the Greeks che bee e on grounds o
roguer but augh at them the do not hate
them.
h sad the rend who or hs uet |udg-
ments had chosen or m mentor when we
broached ths sub|ect the hatred that the ha e
or us s mposed on them a knd o dogma. The
hate the rmenans ugars athocs wth
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88 T T T T M
another much more e knd o hatred assure
ou. urope woud but sa decded that
Greece sha ne er ha e onstantnope that no
more terrtor sha be taken rom us those peope
mght become good sub|ects ke the buk o the
rmenans ho see now that the cannot hope or
ndependence and pre er us to the ussans.
mong the cutured cosmopotan Greeks o
onstantnope one occasona nds a corda
kng or the Turks. Greek o ths sort who was
nterested n m studes n ted us to hs sand
a towards the end o m sta n Turke . ne
e enng as we smoked together ookng out upon
the sea and the man dstant ghts whch marked
the entrance to the osphorus he et a ths
strange sa ng : ou cannot sa much or the
Turks that woud appea to ngsh peope or the
are unbusnesske a aut or whch commerca
urope w ne er org e them. ut ou can sa
wth truth that the are genera good and knd
whe the hrstans o ths countr are we
wcked can nd no other word or t.
cannot honest endorse that |udgment n so
ar as t concerns the poorer peasant hrstans
whom know and ke. t ma be true o the
rch e antnes cannot sa . ut the poorer
hrstans are not wcked on the ha e been
msed and schooed to great ntoerance at a tme
when Musm educaton tends the other wa .
ter had been two months n Msket anum s
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TT M G 89
house the Greek cook asked me : Do ou tru
ke the Musms ure t s on a pretence.
e ha e watched ou and ee sure ou are a
hrstan. h then do ou ke them
he seemed rea worred. ga e some reason
whch occurred to me. he thought t good and
ute agreed wth me on natura ground.
ut st the are not hrstans she suspred.
t s so pu ng.
t was the supernatura aspect o the case at war
wth acts whch worred her.
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PT
T M T
The nghtngaes were sngng nght and da the
croakng o the rogs waxed dea enng n the
e enngs hosts o tortoses whch had been
hbernatng n the thckets came out and basked
upon the ktchen-garden. e nto a er a
wa o e the garden beng arge enough or
exercse and ar more peasant that the dust
roads. t aso was a pace o concourse and socet
where a our rends oregathered n the a ternoons
and strangers mght be met at an tme. Msket
anum tod me that her ather had encouraged
peope to resort to t unt the pace became
regarded amost as a pubc park and she herse
had no ob|ecton to ther comng so ong as the
re raned rom damagng the trees and pants.
The stors were che women whose appearance
added beaut to the stas ther whte-draped
gures ookng statues ue aganst the mass o ea es
and ghostke n the shadow o green ases. ut
ther presence made m waks uneas or ed
be ore them though t sometmes happened that
n act to ee was recaed b merr aughter
G
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T M T 91
the were ades knew we. was o ten tod that
m deas were too od- ashoned and asked to
recognse the great ad ance the Turks had made
upon the wa s o m beo ed rabs. et the
oces o the women ded as we drew near the
pubc road and n ther outdoor tak wth me
coud detect the a our o an escapade. est an -
one shoud thnk that m eed rends were a
o them the w es o some od uebeard or had
e er been mmured n harems et me sa at
once that such a noton s ute ant uated. Po -
gam s st estabshed as a prncpe but tte
practsed among the Turks o to-da . n cases
where a marred coupe ha e no chdren a second
w e s genera taken wth the consent or at the
nstance o the rst. The prde and ndependence
o the Turksh ades s accountabe or much o the
po gam to be obser ed n recent ears. e at
onstantnope beng charmng the re use to
tra e. onse uent when a husband went as
go ernor to aghdad or Damascus or e ears at
east he took wth hm as consort a rcassan
sa e who possb woud urge hm on to urther
matrmon eeng one n a oregn and. part
rom ths purat o w es has ceased to be the
custom sa e or utans. n the other hand
d orce s er eas so that men and women
wth a taste or change ma grat t.
know a ad who has had se en husbands and
speaks o her arous chdren as that hate-
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92 T T T T M
u hmed s gr poor m s bo and so
on.
nstead o beng restrcted to her husband and
her brothers a modern Turksh ad s mae ac-
uantance s extended so as to ncude her cousns
and a knds o reat es b marrage makng a
arge crce. or these she goes un eed and
dresses charmng or other men she s a shrouded
phantom ute unrecognsabe beongng to a
separate ord the ord o omen. t s but
natura that ad enturous brght-wtted grs who
ha e been brought up n the uropean wa o
thnkng shoud be constant seekng to enarge
ther crces urgng ther reat es and bosom
rends to marr some outsder that the ma ha e
another man to whom the ma come out rom
es. Msket anum who had sworn to wed a
Turk was constant ad|ured to do so uck or
the peasure o her rends. a knd o ega
cton snce on a near reat e coud odge wth
a one woman n a Turksh house was made a
reat e o Msket and so upon the score o an
magned ssterhood accessbe to a her crce.
uch ubbes are b no means rare where t s a
ueston o enargng women s spheres. These w
probab go on extendng t the are as wde as
those o ngshwomen ncudng a the egbe
and pote when the e w be no onger an
hardshp but a mere wthdrawa rom the crowd.
n the countr one occasona saw a man accom-
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T M T 93
pannng the women o hs house n waks abroad
the man n arab stroed be ore the women
oowng but t was thought a strange proceedng
e en there whe n the ct t was ute unheard
o . utsde the pr ac o house and garden the
men and women o a am go d erent wa s. t
s mproper or them to be seen together. Ths
beng so the Turksh ades ha e a gre ance n the
attude ther men cam wth regard to uropeans.
Turksh man w tra e wth a rench or German
woman n the tran st next to her on the steamer
wak about wth her n town not knowng that
the back-shxouded whte-go ed gure passng
and repassng s hs |eaous w e. nd when
charged wth msbeha our b the atter he w
|ust hs conduct b the uropean standard and
bame hs w e or ack o knowedge o the word.
ow shoud she know the word he knows her
own restrctons. The women ha e howe er
one ad antage n beng ute unrecognsabe when
n outdoor garb.
ad comng rom tambou one e enng to
our garden where she had arranged to meet her
ord and master tod us : passed m husband
on the brdge ths a ternoon when was wakng
wth some rends and ga e hm a good nudge n
passng. e stood st turned and stared seem-
ng much nterested. had g en hm a eeng o
ad enture. ou w see
he short charged her husband n m presence
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94 T T T T M
wth ha ng et a moment s tender nterest n a
eed one who had nudged hm on the brdge.
The wretch retorted that he had n act stood st
a moment ookng a ter her debatng whether he
shoud g e her nto custod .
Msket anum who as Turk and uropean
en|o ed the reedom o both words assured me
she pre erred the Turksh wa s and o ed the rea
od- ashoned Turks more than the moderns.
et she coud be the uropean on occason.
remember one ne rda a ternoon she had
arranged to tra e nto town wth me. s t
happened there had come a stor to unch the
same oung rab rom the mtar schoo who
had et such strong msg ngs at m rst arr a.
Much to m astonshment Msket begged and
then commanded hm to come wth us. e beng
too pote to sa o at hemmed and hawed
but when our hostess e t us or a moment he ung
hmse on me mporng me to hep hm who
understood Msket was the on woman he had
e er spoken to outsde hs am . e o ed and
enerated her extreme but as or gong out wth
her wh he had ne er e en gone out wth hs
mother snce he was a bab e woud de o
shame and woud besdes prett certan be
paced under arrest the commandant o the
schoo shoud get to hear o the proceedng. e
was shocked at her proposng such a thng. Msket
anum had not be ore encountered so correct a
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T M T 95
Musm or she was ama ed at a re usa whch to
me seemed natura. Most Turks are now accus-
tomed to the estern ew o women and ha e
two standards and two manners whch the use at
w.
the men assert ther rght to mx wth uropean
ades n the uropean manner the women not
unnatura cam an e ua cence n regard to
uropean men o decent standng when brought
near to them. The ree ntercourse whch en-
|o ed wth a whoe cotere woud not ha e been
aowed to an nat e o the countr . e do
remember a good Musm outh who came to ca
on me companng o the conduct o an oder ad
who had been sttng wth us n the garden when
he came n sght but then at once wthdrew. e
cred : hat nonsense t a s he taks un-
eed to ou a stranger and hdes rom me whom
she has known a bab There s a good dea o
nonsense n t a n these da s and there s un ar-
ness n the pre erence o uropeans. The argu-
ment that we are used to seeng women constant
whe Turks are not hods good up to a certan
pont. The rsk o sudden passon s much ess
wth us. ut shoud the ame break out as ma
we happen or the Turksh ades are. exceedng
attract e the dsaster on the other hand s
greater. or a Musm woman s not under an
crcumstances aowed to marr a hrstan man
the od prde o sam orbds t though the
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96 T T T T M
re erse the marrage o a hrstan woman b a
Musm ha ng a taste o con uest s permssbe.
a Turksh gr does wed a hrstan she must
ee the countr ea e her am or e er and g e
up her propert . en supposng that she does
ths gad her chance o happness s sma or
Turksh women howe er much the hanker a ter
uropean manners when at home are soon dsgusted
wth them n experence and ha e been known to
de o homesckness. The educated Turk to-da
has no ob|ecton to the abstract noton o aowng
Musm madens to wed uropeans n the tme to
come. ut or the present t s ute out o the
ueston pubc opnon beng erce aganst t.
he ths s so the growng ashon among Turks
o takng w es rom urope shoud thnk be
strong deprecated. e are not et upon an
e ua ootng and unt we are such nter-
marrage common wth women o no character
w be n|urous. There ha e been brought nto
honourabe Turksh homes women whom the
husbands mother ssters cousns we know to
be undesrabe though obged b custom to re-
ce e the brde wth open arms. Po gam beng
rtua extnct and women somewhat n excess
o men t oows that Turksh men o good
socet seek w es n urope whe ther women
are restrcted n ther choce to Turks a number
o we educated ades must reman unmarred.
read one perce es the nuceus o a emnst
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T M T 97
mo ement whch n another generaton w no
doubt be ormdabe.
Ths concern o ntermarrage has become a
probem n the ast ew decades and s bound to
gan mportance n the course o tme. sam
has been caed an enem to c saton too curt
as thnk the act beng smp that she has not
et arr ed at a modus end wth modern e.
The process o experment n that drecton s at
present gong on n Turke among the one whte
race the Musm word possesses. ts conse uences
to humant at arge are o such moment that one
s ama ed to see the process hndered and opposed
b urope. ne o the great compants o
ttoman hrstans s that whe the Turks ma
see ther women ree the Turksh women are
kept | eaous secuded rom them . Ther gre ance
s not ute so reasonabe as t seems. ormer
the nat e hrstan women used to e and keep
apart n exact the same manner as the Turks.
he that was so there was o course no gre ance.
rom a wsh to ape the uropeans ther pro-
tectors the nat e hrstans et ther women take
a bert n dress and bearng whch to the ma|ort
o ther compatrots and e en to some uropeans
seems ndecent the ha e themse es and not the
Turks to bame or an ncon enence whch ma
thence accrue to them.
The cotere to whch was admtted upon terms
o ntmac was as that act procams rather
o
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98 T T T T M
more rench than Turksh though no member o
t had anc been to rance. The ades read
rench books and perodcas and were but a ew
da s behnd n ther dscusson o the newest pa
the atest no e the ast sensaton n the wa o
crme or scanda rousng Pars whe the gentemen
were e ua we n ormed upon potca e ents
n that ar countr . Thngs renta the ooked
down on wth ndugent sentmenta pt as od-
ashoned and a tr e barbarous.
che cause o ths aenaton o a secton o
the upper casses rom the Turksh peope has been
the ack o Turksh educaton o a modern knd.
n one good modern schoo or bo s o course
exsted unt ate whe uropean msson
schoos were pent and o ered ob ous ad antages
when the rst ob|ect o the schoar was to gan
the practce o a oregn tongue. The sons o hgh
o cas o the od regme ether attended such
schoos or had oregn tutors n the home. The
grs had uropean go ernesses o ten o a ds-
reputabe cass or the parents were not sked
to choose uartered upon them. ad ha e
wrtten but mght ha e wrtten ha e or some
o the specmens met ths tme n Turke were
ute unworth o a post o trust.
M w e was asked b a gr o eghteen to re-
commend her a good ngsh go erness. er
ather a wdower desred to nd one but had no
means o teng good rom bad. The dressed
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T M T 99
ake. had one once she sad a Mrs ohnson.
ut she was bad.
hat dd she do
othng at a. That was |ust t. he a
n bed a da and drank wne. nd ather dd not
know how to get rd o her. e coud not o
course be rude to a uropean ad who was n
our house aone wthout a rend. e ga e her
bee e no end o mone |ust to go.
h those go ernesses The ha oc the ha e
wrought n decent Turksh homes The best o
them ha e done much msche b ther nabt
to see that nnocence can per ect consst wth
candour upon topcs whch uropeans co er wth
a sentmenta e the worst ha e deat n actua
corrupton. hen someone asked a Turk o m
ac uantance he was not gong to pro de a
go erness or hs chdren he answered : Do ou
thnk me then so bad a Musm that shoud g e
m son or gude a secret agent o our oes
n thnk Msket once sad to me. ne
o the grs who comes to me or essons a gr o
twe e knows e er r er and mountan e er
department and che -eu n rance a the dates
o the Mero ngan kngs and et cannot te the
date o bdu amd . nor the names o the
natoan a ets. th me she s begnnng
Turksh hstor she sad that she had ne er heard
o such a sub|ect o nstructon and geograph
and manners.
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100 T T T T M
n truth the need o natona and patrotc
educaton more especa or women s a cr ng
one the Turks ha e been so cheated and msed
on a hands b ther oregn teachers.
There was another sub|ect on whch Msket
anum as aread stated d ered strong rom
the greater number o her neghbours that o
potcs. he was an ardent nonst whe the
were beras and t was to me a mar e seeng
the erceness and the re uenc o ther dsputes
that our crce hed together or a snge da . ur
rends beng good enough to wsh to wn me to
ther sde kept dnnng n m ears the e dongs
o the nonsts.
ut the are the progress e part are the
not asked consderab pu ed or n ngand
had heard the oung Turks bamed or rash
attempts to orce thngs uropean whoesae on an
astern race. The am at modern progress.
ow s t then that ou who are so ar ad anced n
that drecton ob|ect to them so strong
Progress e came the shrek. e hear
and |udge oman s emancpaton s a part o
progress s t not hen bert was procamed
some women o the educated sort as capabe o
good beha our as the men supposed that the
mght go about more ree . The were arrested
ned mprsoned. ne poor gr was sentenced to
three ears mprsonment or throwng back her
e and drnkng o a gass o arak n a pubc pace.
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p
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T M T pr.
t was a pece o bra ado o ugart ou ke
but was t worth o so great a punshment nd
do the e er bame those others who assa us
modern women spt at us and curse us we wear
a thnner e or a more ashonabe skrt than
usua e ore the onsttuton we et no such
t rann . The progress e h the are most
pure reactonares
don t care what ou sa cred Msket
anum the nonsts are rght and ou are
wrong. s or ther se ert towards some ades
those ades brought t on themse es. Dd not
the when admtted to the theatre tear down the
wooden bars whch set apart ther gaer and
msbeha e themse es each tme the were aowed
some bert
t s a ther aut she woud expan to
me. The do not know how to beha e the
are as et un t or greater bert . n proo
o ths asserton she tod stores ustrat e o
the tragc erment among women snce the
re outon.
hen the great ba n honour o the onsttu-
ton was g en at ener aghcheh a rend o hers
n ormed hs w e that he was gong. s w e
orbade t. e sad that he was gre ed to ha e to
dsobge her but as a steward o the dance was
bound to go. There was a urous scene the
w e decared t was a sn or hm to |ump about
wth bra en- aced ha -naked women but a
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tos rt T T T M
the same the husband went. The w e went too
but secret . he prowed about outsde the
ghted budng t she ound a water to whom she
ga e her husband s name and a bre message to
the e ect that someone wshed to speak to hm upon
mportant busness. The husband e nto the
trap when she chastsed hm sound wth a weapon
she had hdden underneath her charsha . e n a
rage d orced her then and there n presence o
the crowd whch uck gathered. ut she dd
not care. he had she sad done |ustce on an
e -doer.
gan one da when Msket anum was gong to
tambou a ght broke out between two ades n
the women s cabn on the boat. he heped to
separate the combatants who turned out to be
rends o hers. he heard ther stor . The were
ad anced oung ades who had been cose rends
rom chdhood. The had awa s owed that
when the marred each shoud come out
ree to the other s husband. The dd marr
and the men appro ed ther ow. ne da the
husband o the one happened to be stng the other
marred coupe n ther a seasde house upon
the osphorus. s hostess rom desre to do hm
honour put a hgh scented towe n hs bedroom.
hen he got home hs w e rst sn ed the ar
then ew at hm. e came to her reekng o the
chosen per ume o her bosom rend. nd when
she met that rend n the harm compartment o
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T M T 103
a steamer her rst thought was to tear her pece-
mea.
ar more dread u thng had happened er
ate . Turksh gr consumpt e had been sent
o to a sanatorum n wt erand. ews came to
her reatons n onstantnope that she was worse
and coud not e much onger. er sster and
the sster s husband both o them members o the
ad anced set o Turks hastened to her bedsde.
The sster hed ong consutatons wth the doctor
whch no doubt ooked bad as she dd not know
how to beha e wth uropeans or whch her
husband shot her and then shot hmse n presence
o the d ng gr who maddened b the sght
sprang out o bed and stamped upon the dead
man s ace.
n spte o anecdote and representaton to the
contrar howe er st consdered Turksh
women hard treated b the nonsts |udgng
b the ew o m own crce who were hgh
c sed.
n m next st to tambou broached the
sub|ect o er uncheon to the man who snce the
departure o aat e was m most con denta
rend n Turke at the same tme askng hm to
te me whch o the two partes was n truth pro-
gress e whch reactonar . s rep was : ou
must nd out or ourse .
or hmse he was a nonst he sad though
there were persons n that part whom he heart
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104 T T T T M
dsked. ut he woud not g e me hs deas nor
seek to n uence me n the east ookng orward
wth much nterest to m mparta erdct. n the
sub|ect o the women he was gra e and spoke as
oows :
hen the onsttuton was procamed we
thought t the menum and magned that the
od restrctons were no onger needed. n the
rst da s t rea ooked ke that. e were a
mad wth reedom hrstans ews Moham-
medans embraced as brothers. Then a at once a
thng occurred whch brought us sharp back to
ace reates. horrbe e ent ou must ha e
heard o t. ust o er there ute cose to us.
Musm gr con dng n the shouts o bert
marred a hrstan. e m rend there was
a rsng. The par were dragged out o ther
house and hacked to peces n the open street.
orse than a that there was a how o sats acton
rom the countr rom the er women e saw
a hdeous per to a od whch t was necessar to
preser e nde nte the rgorous secuson o our
Musm women. There were no two partes at
the tme a agreed on the necesst . The soe
ob|ectors were a secton o the hrstans who
seemed to thnk we ought to anger and humate
the Musms or ther sake. Ths matter o the
women s the one pont o anatcsm whch st
sur es among us. The Go ernment must
consder the whoe naton not aone the ew who
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T M T 105
ha e outgrown such pre|udces. emember that
the ades wth whom ou assocate are ute ex-
ceptona and mght be murdered the had the
bert whch the desre.
e was ute rght. nd et t seemed to me
a pt that so much enthusasm shoud ha e been
repressed so bunt when an appea to the unru
ades upon grounds o patrotsm presentng them
wth an dea and wth work to do mght ha e done
wonders or the part o re orm. or Turksh
women are ntense patrotc and as a rue more
energetc than the men.
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PT
P T G P
The second armstce had been procamed and
e er one bee ed the ar w as o er. cers
on two or three da s urough rom hata|a caed
on us and Msket anum as surprsed to nd that
her tuperaton o the ugars as nether echoed
nor appauded b these actua ghters. Ther
atttude to ards the enem was one o pure com-
passon. The ugars had the tod us ought
magn cent ther osses had been terrbe so
great that the coud hard now be sad to ha e
an arm . The capture o dranope had been
ther ast great e ort whch the ne er coud ha e
made success u wthout the erbs and ussan
ounteers. genera tod me that the ugars
had pettoned or the armstce and as soon as t
was granted came n hundreds to the Turksh nes
to beg or ood. e sad t made hm downrght
sck to see the wa the star ng soders e upon
the ood when t was g en to them. The ugars
had beha ed ke sa ages n Thrace and Macedona
but that was the dong he consdered che o
rreguars whom t was awa s dangerous to use
106
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P T G P 107
n astern war are. That the massacres had been
a de nte part o the pan o campagn he er
bee ed |udgng rom the ed e t ree to these
rreguars and rom the act that none o them so
ar as he coud earn had et been hanged whch
woud ha e been ther ate n an c sed arm .
the reguars he spoke as he had ound them
bra e ne troops but utter exhausted n spte
o a ther cam to ctor . The had beaten
out ther e on the hata|a orts. eng thus
weak the woud be pounced on b ther own aes
as wo es de our the wounded eader o the pack.
The Turks had now a we-apponted arm n the
ed compared wth whch the remnant o the
ugar host whch at the outset o the war had
been a spendd ghtng orce was pt u. s a
soder who had seen ther arm n ts prme and
much admred t he coud not but ee sorr or
ts utter run. Ths was the ew o e er Turksh
soder that one met. n our age on the
satc shore o Marmora e speed resumed ts
norma ow. There had been no est tes pubc
or pr ate among Musms snce ctober but
now one heard the gossp o a hundred weddngs
and peasure-trps and partes were once more
aowed. md the soca buste whch ensued
made a ot o new ac uantances and heard some
compments upon m Turksh whch was gettng
uent. esdes the kho|a who came da to
nstruct me and the tak o Msket anum and the
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o8 T T T T M
ser ants had another most e cent teacher n
the person o a neghbour s tte bo one Mehmed
who ed me orth each mornng to nspect the
word. e woud chatter awa ga takng m
ntegence or granted then sudden pu up
be ore some ob|ect and demand : hat s t
ame ts coour s t hard or so t nma
egetabe or mnera and so on. Ths dut
towards me he per ormed wth most mpress e
gra t takng great pans wth m pronuncaton
whch he sad was gross rab. ometmes an
oder bo hs cousn sometmes a whoe group o
chdren bore us compan when con ersaton soon
became a genera romp whch passers-b obser ed
wth s mpathetc grns. t was curous to hear
these Turksh chdren though ute ntmate
address each other orma as e end
anum end |ust ke grown-up persons.
Ths was the n arabe custom ormer but now
the proper name s ganng ground and a shout o
Mehmed a et or a rom one
chd to another s no onger thought -mannered.
Through tte Mehmed ac ured a dea o
nurser ore o whch m hostess was ound a
great repostor . he knew the anguage o the
rogs o man brds and e en pants or we ha e
seen her charm a tte seed-pod o the crane s-
b wth the words : Dun dun baba|k Dun-
masan ke an kesarm kan ku u a atarm
Turn turn tte ather ou don t
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P T G P 109
break our head and throw ou n the bood we
The seed-pod turned n e dent aarm to the ad-
mraton o m se and Mehmed the more so that
we tred and aed to work the mar e. Mehmed
had a tenderness or a that es. e had been
known to weep most btter or ows o hs ac-
uantance when these appeared be ore hm n
the orm o ood. akng wth me n the garden
he woud shrek sudden and dance wth angush
tuggng at m arm. ou re treadng on them
he woud cr . The ng ants e was
not a strong chd and rom ths and other n-
dcatons |udged hm somethng o a mksop.
was much mstaken. he was earnng
Turksh rom hm he on hs sde was empo ed
demure on a comprehens e stud o m ab-
normates. born mmc he soon ac ured a
per ect mtaton o m strut m rown m grn
m trcks o gesture these he adopted n hs
admraton or me whch howe er dsco ered
was b no means bnd.
ne da when runnng he e down on a sharp
stone and cut hs knee whch bed pro use .
took hm to m room and washed the cut and
genera made more uss about the matter than
shoud ha e done had he mpressed me as ess
ra. e ooked surprsed at rst whch set down
to shock and ne er cred at a but seeng m
concern screwed up hs ace to an expresson o
great agon ooked up at me wth huge pathetc
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p
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no T T T T M
e es and moaned eh kadar a| or ow
much t hurts at nter as. hen we went out
agan he mped aarmng re urng m support
at e er step. Ths asted t hs mother came n
n search o hm. he asked what was the matter.
The bo was speechess owng as t seemed to
pan. n accdent es he had aen down and
cut hs knee. The ad spped asde the bandage
had made ganced at the pace and orthwth
sapped t hard. he sad he was a er naught
bo . To m surprse he dd not thereupon ds-
so e n tears but ga e a skp and grnnng n m
ace excamed eh kadar a| or n open
mocker . t seemed he had been mere pa ng
up to me n pursuance o hs course o stud o
m character. ought to ha e remembered that
no Turk whether man woman or chd has e er
known that ner ous shudder whch most ngsh
peope ee at the sght o bood. o matter
whether t be ther own or another s no matter
what the uantt bood owng s or the Turk a
mere natura phenomenon nterestng on n so
ar as t can be pre ented. Ths pecuart has
ganed or them a name or caous cruet un-
|ust or the are as knd as we are. The trat s
one o atasm not o nhumant . n mportant
personage once condescended to descrbe to me the
od- ashoned Turksh ew o massacres or nstance.
e sad :
ere am sttng n m room. The come
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P T G P
and te me there s kng gong on outsde.
te them : top t nstant The go then come
agan and sa the cannot stop t. then go out
m se and ew the matter and estmate the orce
at m dsposa to put down the kng. nd
t nsu cent or see cear that m orces w
betra me and go o er to the crowd thus endng
m authort send or ren orcements. uppose
the do not come. et the crmes go on whe
takng care u note o the che crmnas who ha e
re used to hear me reser ng m authort or
the punshment o the o enders a terwards whch
punshment promse ou sha be exempar .
Ths method though opposed to our deas possesses
merts. ut ha e wandered ar awa rom m
rend Mehmed. The sad Mehmed s parents
appro ng strong o the rendshp made me
ree o ther kosk and ther socet . s mother
was a er energetc charmng ad who saed
orth each da as a back shrouded phantom un-
recognsabe unt she spoke on errands hard
consonant wth the accepted ngsh ew o
Turksh women. he had organsed coectons
or the wounded expedtons o ood and tobacco
to the ront had stood or hours wth her adherents
at the rawa staton n the btter da s o wnter
amd seet and snow throwng g ts b hand us
nto each compartment o the trans whch passed
n uck successon brngng soders up rom ona
and ngora. t present she was organsng a
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112 T T T T M
st greater work a eague o Turksh ades or
the patronage o Turksh ndustres. er husband
a permanent o ca o hgh standng was one o
the most subte thnkers t has e er been m uck to
meet. s ews o uropean potcs whch he
had studed more mnute than those o hs own
countr a ang o the modern Turk as ha e
hnted were snguar shrewd and beng ute
mparta resh to me and that hs opnon upon
Turksh matters was worth more than most men s.
gathered rom the act that though an ardent
bera he sometmes had a good word or the
nonsts. The other beras o our ac uant-
ance were such btter partsans that the had ost
the w and the capact to st n |udgment. e
are nshed the woud mutter thanks to
urope but che thanks to those atrocous
nonsts. ur shame s great. hat must the
rench and ngsh thnk o us seeng us submt
to the domnon o such men. the earth woud
on open and engu us
ha e heard these rends o mne accuse the
nonsts o e er crme rom pett the t to
murder and ncendarsm and shoud probab
ha e g en credence to the charges had the been
made genera and not spec ca amed at persons
whom knew and ked. n order to expan the
ground o ths extreme btter part eeng
here g e an outne o the hstor o the present
Turksh partes.
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P T G P 113
t the e outon e er one became a nonst
ether b con cton or rom po c . There was
n appearance no reactonar sprt et nne
months ater there broke out a counter-re outon
n the orm o a mutn o the garrson o onstan-
tnope. Ths mutn has been ascrbed to the
persona ntrgues o bdu amd . but seems
rather to ha e been the work wthout hs knowedge
o those who owed to hm a rank and ortune whch
the eared to ose under the new regme. t was
uck suppressed the oung Turk arm under
Mahmud he ket Pasha marched rom aonka
and re-took the capta whch t entered amd
scenes o wd enthusasm and once more e er -
one became a nonst n outward seemng though
secret dscontent pre aed among the upper casses.
there were men o sense and genune patrotsm
on the ommttee there were aso rebrands
whose arrogance o ended the od notabes. The
arous attacks upon the mpre more or ess con-
certed b the Powers o urope whch oowed
cose upon the e outon were attrbuted b man
to the new regme. The amdan statesmen
and o cas whose poc had been a outward
de erence towards the Powers were horr ed at
the crude methods o the oung Turk Go ernment
ts caow trust n dpomatc protestatons ts
negect o backstars opportuntes esponage and
tte subsdes o whch the t rant had a aed
hmse wth such success. The kngets o the
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114 T T T T M
akans ound ther ncomes much reduced so dd
the banan che s so aso ha e heard dd
other personages beongng to a word reputed
much more c sed. n bdu amd s tme a
man coud be a genera n the arm at twent -one
b n uence. There were man ouths thus
osted nto hgh appontments. The re ormers
had them a examned and degraded to the
rank or whch the seemed desgned b nature.
Mnsters who had pre ed upon the countr and
grown rch were made to ed a porton o ther
spos. The dsarmng o the banan moun-
taneers appeared untme and was sad to be
per ormed n much too harsh a manner. ut t
was an attempt to centrase the mpre on a
German pan orcng the Turksh anguage upon
a ts races e en the proud rabs whch ga e
the pposton heart and popuart though ts
eaders aso made potca capta out o the suc-
cesson o dsasters cumnatng n the war wth
ta whch had be aen the countr under
nonst rue. The beras came nto power n
the summer o 191 2 and ormed what ooked ke
a strong Mnstr . The bame the nonsts
or the dsaster o the rst part o the war accusng
them o ha ng demorased the arm b sacr-
cng dscpne to ther potca propaganda.
The nonsts on the other hand contend that
the had as much mpro ed the arm n the artce
o e cenc as n those o ood and cothng and
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P T G P 115
ascrbe the whoe asco to the change made n ts
arrangements b the beras rom part spte
and partcuar to the madness o the Go ernment
n dsbandng the arm o Macedona at the nstance
o the Powers when war was actua n sght.
n ths ast pont the beras rep that the
rece ed a de nte assurance rom the Powers
that no attack on Turke b the akan tates
woud be permtted. n that assurance the
dsbanded the sad arm con dng n the honour
o the Powers. h the nonsts excam
con de n somethng whch the knew u we
dd not exst The beras admt that the
woud not ha e trusted ussa but the trusted
ngand. owe er that ma be the dsbandng
o a dscpned and we-tred arm o 120 000
men |ust then was ata n ts conse uences to the
Turks. The men had |ust had tme to scatter to
ther homes n dstant pro nces when war broke
out and to repace them rreguars and raw re-
cruts were dr en n. ome o these knew so
tte o a soder s busness that on the word o
command : t the a threw down ther
r es the same word meanng re and aso
Throw ha e the stor rom an o cer
who had to do wth them. hether competent
or no the bera regme was a compete asco.
Popuar sentment soon turned aganst a part
whose accesson to power had seemed the sgna
or caamt and the communt at arge was not
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6 T T T T M
ndgnant when t e n the tte re outon o
anuar 1913 on whch occason a m Pasha
ost hs e. ere agan the part ersons are
rreconcabe. The beras decare that a m s
murder was premedtated. The nonsts protest
that t was nothng o the knd but rather pardon-
abe homcde commtted n hot bood and on
the strongest pro ocaton. ncne to take the
atter ew and or ths reason that ne er heard
o an Turk who ked a man as he magned or
hs countr s good who dd not gor n the deed.
That the nonsts express regret or a m s
death seems to me proo post e that t was not
ncuded n ther orecast o the anuar re outon.
n ether case t was a most un ortunate e ent
snce t made the beras regard the he ket
Pasha Go ernment wth actua hatred. M
bera rends assured me now the war was ended
t woud not be ong be ore the o erthrew those
crmnas and hanged them a. owng some-
thng or the renta gour o magnaton
had heard such tak at home rom eager partsans
so dd not attach much mportance to t. was
wrong n ths as w appear herea ter.
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PT
P T
ne a ternoon had been rompng wth Meh-
med and some other chdren n the chestnut gro e
when a er dgn ed and handsome genteman o
thrt - e or thereabouts came towards us down
the path rom the house. mng upon m heated
state ndugent but wth the ook o one who
coud not understand such e t o conduct n
a grown-up person he begged the a our o some
pr ate tak wth me. ccordng ushered
hm ndoors to Msket anum s tte drawng-
room o whch he shut the door a most unusua
course o acton be ore con dng to me : n a
er ew da s now the nonst Go ernment w
be o erthrown or e er. There must be saughter
but t w be no more than what s absoute
necessar about e hundred persons who are
rea dangerous. t w not take a da to nsh
the whoe work a beng we prepared. Then
we sha carr out our great scheme o re orm
part o whch reatng to the rab pro nces
ha e come to a be ore ou or our |udgment.
These dread u words were uttered n the so t
7
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8 T T T T M
ow tone o oce whch e er Turk empo s n
ceremonous tak. The con dence wth whch he
prophesed the speed down a o the Go ernment
amd more boodshed the wa he seemed to goat
upon the prospect made me sck at heart or
nothng more dsastrous or the ttoman mpre
than another re outon at that |uncture coud
ha e been de sed b the most btter enem o
sam. ow coud ths man who e dent
o ed hs countr a to see that an go ernment
was better or that countr now than an change
owe er dd not betra m eengs but smp
asked n the same so t purrng tone whch he had
used to hear the amous pro|ect o re orms. e
then embarked upon a ength expanaton o
whch the detas ha e escaped m memor . t was
a scheme o de outon such as Mr s uth
mght ha e athered. There was to be a separate
Parament or ra another or Mesopotama
and another remember rght or o a the
regons o the earth the great pennsua o raba
wth ts thousand warrng trbes and prncpates.
These countres woud become at once autonomous
ke ngsh coones unted on b aegance to
the utan who woud o course be represented
b the Go ernors. hat dd thnk o t the
stor n ured wth a brght ook o trumph
makng sure o m appro a.
ound t d cut to g e pote expresson to
m thoughts o t. ut there s no demand or
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P T 119
the breakng up o the Turksh mpre was m
answer and there were ou woud do wse
to oppose t.
ut our pan s to preser e the mpre b
makng a the pro nces contented.
n act to run the schoo wthout the master
no means ather to unte ree members
o a eague b tes o common nterest.
ou ha e rst to nd or educate ree members
o our eague.
ut there s a demand or autonom n those
countres.
hch reaches ou b wa o Pars s t not
so on the Turks woud go themse es and
stud the condton o the rab pro nces nstead
o acceptng the opnon o ther pro en enemes
the woud e o e some practcabe scheme nstead
o mere topas
ut our scheme s better than the mad nonst
one o makng a the rabs nto Turks. e are
or decentrasaton. t s the rst need o the
mpre.
The rst need o the mpre n m humbe
|udgment was the stud o pan acts nstead o
ar theores and the appcaton to that stud o
a tte common sense. The nonsts had thrown
awa ther centrasng scheme and at ast were
g ng due attenton to the actua probem. The
beras woud ha e to throw awa ther theor
o de outon and de ote themse es to the same
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120 T T T T M
stud the wshed to keep those pro nces
wthn the mpre. knew sad that had
earned the reputaton o an rab partsan b -
attackng Turksh nd erence upon the sub|ect
o the rab gre ances whene er coud get a
chance. ut the rabs seemed to me to be the
hope o Turke . Ther mentat mted
possessed an energ and a drectness whch was
ackng n the a greatness o the Turksh out-
ook. rom heated arguments wth certan
nonsts who wshed to ew them n the ght o
naught chdren had retred desparng t
a rend word rom Mahmud he ket Pasha
carred to me b a rend assured me that the
ruers thought as dd.
t ths m stor smed scorn u . e sad :
The ha e dece ed ou. nd e en the
ntend to do some good the w not ha e the
opportunt or the w soon be dead. nce
ou ob|ect to our treatng the rabs ke chdren
and ob|ect to our treatng them ke u-grown
men what do ou not ob|ect to ma ask
shoud ha e ked to see them treated on an
e ua ootng wth the Turks to see both Turks
and rabs renstated n that measure o se -
go ernment whch was thers under the ear
utans be ore encroachments o the centra power
corrupted and destro ed the oca checks upon
admnstraton pro ded b the aws o sam.
n a word the communa and muncpa nsttu-
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P T 121
tons whch st sur ed n name ought to be made
e cent and responsbe. The che aut o
Turksh admnstraton o ate ears had been ts
tendenc to ew the pro nces as a speces o god
mne extractng a t coud rom them wthout
return.
that ou wsh to see woud happen natura
under the scheme whch we propose he answered
ght . Takng ra or exampe asked to know
hs ews upon the sub|ect o the dscontent re-
ported rom those pro nces. e spoke o rench
ntrgue n e rout and the ebanon German
and ewsh nterests n Paestne and seemed to
thnk he had accounted or the whoe o t. ut
those ntrgues a ected on the hrstan popua-
ton whch upon the whoe was more contented than
the Musm as ponted out. hen t was known
that the Turks were beng beaten n the war the
Musm popuaton had gone so ar as to express
a wsh or ra to be annexed to g pt. h
ecause the thought the Turks were nshed
and wth the Turks the Musm mpre or the
moment. nd wh shoud the ha e chosen to
go under rtsh rue rather than rench or
German ecause or man ears there had been
preached among them the Gospe o an rab
mpre under the hed e. The g ptans were
unwarke and abo e a acked ntat e. The
woud ne er o themse es throw o the rtsh
oke whch besdes was ghter than the oke
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122 T T T T M
o other Powers and dd not crush but rather
ostered ndependence n the sub|ect. a host
o ercer rabs came beneath t or a tme sharng
ts ga and ts good dscpne n a er tte whe
a great exposon woud take pace and uropean
rue woud cease n estern sa and orth
rca. ut the ran Musms were Musms
rst and rabs a terwards. The woud ha e ded
rather than desert n a bad da a Musm Power
whch had treated them wth due consderaton.
ut when the saw the Turks de eated nshed
as the thought the et no obgaton to adhere
to them. The Turksh rue or man ears had
meant oppresson tempered on b negect.
ut our pan woud remed a that. a ng
a Parament the woud contro ther own a ars.
Parament water-meon cred out
exasperated. n ra ou ha e at east a hundred
d erent trbes and nterests awa s embroed
and genera on the erge o war. The on wa
to keep them uet s to keep them separate and
ths at east the Turksh rue has done or tred to
do. Put rcassan and edaw Dur and Marun
e rut and ham rthodox and athoc to-
gether n one Parament wthout the Turksh
power to o erawe them and nothng under ah
coud pre ent a meee. Put a notons o
separate Paraments cean out o our head and
g e our cose attenton to the rab pro nces
estabsh order stud to ensure prospert and
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P T 123
educate educate educate the peope there and
n the Turksh pro nces n the dutes and re-
sponsbtes o ree ct enshp whch can on be
done b g ng them contro o matters whch
mmedate concern them. ncourage them to
organse and carr out the pubc works re ured
n ther own towns and ages trbes and com-
muntes sub|ect on to nspecton b the centra
go ernment.
nother topa aughed m stor when
he had nshed takng notes.
e then proposed that we shoud take a wak
together. ccordng we went down to the sea
and sttng on a runed wa taked amcab unt
sunset. man o uropean educaton et an
ardent Musm the rst had encountered among
beras he pro ed a most agreeabe companon.
e had been n ngand or some ears n bdu
amd s tme ha ng been exed ke so man
others or no reason. ne man know was sen-
tenced to mprsonment or e or ha ng sad once
n the presence o a sp : am sck o ths wretched
countr . nother was sent out wth a whoe
cass o mtar cadets who had appeaed to the
utan aganst some new reguaton n ther schoo
n a bottomess boat to be drowned at sea a ate
rom whch the escaped b brbng the executoners
and promsng them ne er to return to Turke
whe bdu amd regned. Men so -used
became the enemes o ther oppressor natura
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124 T T T T M
and haed the re outon wth deght. hat
cannot expan uness b supposng that consprac
ma become a habt as n eterate as drnk or
gambng s that so man o them n a short whe
became consprators aganst the new regme.
t s a sad thng or a man to ha e to own that
he has been mstaken m companon sghed
ga ng at the mountan sands bathed n sunset
ght. The t rann oathed was ess abomnabe
than ths so-caed reedom. t one must not
despar. ne must endea our to destro each
resh n ut . bdu amd was crue and
oppressed us but he dd keep out the oregners
whom our present pack o rascas woud rece e
wth open arms. e had at east ntegence.
Pease God n three weeks tme these crmnas
w ha e rece ed ther wages and the mpre
w be sa ed. e ha e an understandng wth
the ussans who are not so bad as peope thnk.
e sha be abe to secure the countr peace or
a ew ears.
The man s sncert was e dent. ut the word
o trust n ussa that mmemora oe o Turksh
progress showed the magntude o hs deuson.
To ha e a ree progress e Turke on her ronters
apart rom rthodox tradton and heredtar
poc coud ne er be the wsh o a despotc
ussa ussa had subsdsed the t rant and sup-
ported hm or ears. ussa woud now as awa s
g e her ad to the reactonares. et m poor
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P T 125
rend whe boastng her support bee ed hmse
a true progress e. tred to make hm see that
what hs countr needed was not more re outon
but a stabe Go ernment. e answered :
e cannot ha e that t these rogues ha e
been extermnated.
ne tte pont n hs beha our great peased
me. though he had put hs persona sa et n
m hands athough he knew was n constant touch
wth nonsts he ne er asked me to regard our
con ersaton as n con dence. hen a ew da s
ater chanced to hear that the poce were a ter
hm t was the remembrance o that er gente-
manke omsson whch made me or a moment
ut m chosen standpont o the mere obser er.
ut dd not at the tme regard hm as a er serous
consprator so ke was he n tak and manner
e en n appearance to patrots one sometmes hears
n ngsh cubs expatatng on o d George and
other nusances : The countr wont stand t
sr. The eow get shot and ser e hm rght.
n the case o ngshmen one assocates such
speech wth the re erse o acton and the super-
ca keness o the Turks to ngshmen s so
remarkabe as n tse to be su cent to msead
a man who has been used to rabs. tred
howe er to mpress upon m bera rends the
nad sabt o an mo e on ther part at a tme
when uropean opnon was turnng round n
a our o the Turks. nother re outon marked
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126 T T T T M
b boodshed woud make a urope ew the Turks
as hopeess. h w the not understand
one man to whom spoke thus cred desparng
that we are st n re outon ow ong dd
rance take to e o e a stabe Go ernment nd
wh are the so horr ed at boodshed t s
sometmes needed. s a peope we are more aw-
abdng than an n urope there s much ess
crme here n proporton to the popuaton than
there s n ngand. t s on where our countr
and regon are concerned that we are ruth-
ess. how me another wa to purge the tate o
mae actors.
The a accused me o a tota ack o under-
standng and threw back the accusaton at
so we got no urther.
Meanwhe m w e arr ed rom ngand. The
utter conse uent on that e ent the sts counter-
sts and unbounded kndness o the Turks o both
opnons had thrust potcs nto the background
when a at once there came the tdngs that the
Grand er had been assassnated.
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PT
T T
n the 29th o Ma od st e had gone up a ter
uncheon to wrte etters n a room whch beng
on the shad sde o the house and urther shetered
b the deodars remaned comparat e coo amd
the noonda ba e when Msket anum rushed
n wthout ceremon and coapsng on the so a
burst out sobbng :
The ha e murdered Mahmud he ket
e men t buets. hat wckedness Mr
kapan has |ust come wth the news.
he was compete o ercome ncapabe o a
connected narrat e. M w e came n to st wth
her whe went down to nter ew the bearer o
the tdngs. Ths was the husband o an rmenan
ad who wth her daughter had been wth us or
some da s. ound the three o them n the sma
drawng-room ther aces ndcat e o extreme
concern or the were nonsts. The man t
seemed had but that da returned rom g pt
where he had a busness. rr ng n the mdde
o the mornng he had been surprsed to nd
hs at at Pera empt and hearng that hs w e
127
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128 T T T T M
had gone to Msket anum s set o at once to
etch her. a ng some tme to wat or the next
steamer at the rdge he had ooked nto the
ourse at noon and there had heard the news o
the assassnaton o the Grand er whch meant
he thought another re outon.
Mahmud he ket Pasha had been gong rom the
Mnstr o ar to the ubme Porte as hs custom
was at ee en o cock each mornng when n the
open space be ore the Mos ue o utan a a d
hs car was orced to draw up to et somethng pass.
t once as at a sgna certan men who had aghted
rom another motor car sprang on to the steps
and red on hm at cose uarters. n ade-de-
camp who ung hmse across hs che was ked
at once the Grand er expred some twent
mnutes ater n the obb o the Mnstr o ar.
The assassns had made good ther escape and
were doubtess now engaged on other murders as
dsastrous to the tate. e the narrator ha ng
heard the news had come straght on to Msket
anum s to brng home hs w e and daughter.
suggested that the news mght possb pro e
ase to g e some com ort to the women but
rememberng m tak wth the consprator that
e enng b the sea had no doubt but that a re-
outon was n progress. The wckedness o nter-
necne str e at such a tme when Turke needed
a the strength o a her men the de sh
wantonness o kng Mahmud he ket the one
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T T 129
man o hs part who must one woud ha e thought
b a men be regarded as superor to part hate
the most hard-workng and sncere o patrots
ght as men k a noxous beast made me a
o er o the Turks ee downrght .
tte ater n the a ternoon at three o cock
a nose o rng rom the drecton o the ct ga e
us a a thr but a Turksh genteman who caed
about that tme assured us that the sound we heard
was but the ordnar cannon practce o whch the
customar notce had been g en n the mornng s
papers. e dd not ute bee e hm at the tme
though t ree ed our mnds to know that an one
coud thnk that thngs were gong on as usua.
Ths Turksh stor athough a nonst and
a great partsan o Mahmud he ket was much
more phosophca than we were. ndeed hs
che dstress appeared to be on our account that
we shoud take the ncdent so much to heart.
e agreed wth me that the assassnaton o a man so
use u woud be senseess and a great dsaster to
the countr and hoped wth me that the report
was ase. n hope to earn the truth at once he
sent o one o the gardeners wth a note to the
dstrct che o the poce who was a rend o
hs. The answer he rece ed we remember
was : t s a thng ou must not ask ormama
br she dr . ut when m w e and Msket anum
spoke n pt o the murdered man he d ered
gent rom them. hen one s Grand er

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130 T T T T M
one must expect to be assassnated he sad
smng and went on to procam the beautes o
a sudden death. Death was as natura as e. t
came to e er bod . h shoud that nd dua
be pted to whom t came n sw t and eas orm
one bee ed as he supposed we a dd n a uture
state where rtue meets reward the man who ded
thus n hs countr s ser ce workng or the
ath u shoud be en ed. e was e dent
pu ed b m atttude whch acked phosoph
and concerned at the deep sorrow o the women
whom he stro e b coaxng methods to brng back
to smes.
s t happened had promsed or that a ternoon
to ca upon a rend at a dstance who was kept
ndoors b ness. n the exctement orgot ths
dut unt rather ate and went at ast wth mnd
ntent upon apooges. The man whom was
gong to st was knew a bera but so pote
and knd that et assured that he woud share
m eengs on the tdngs o ths murder.
had made up m mnd howe er not to speak o
t snce t dsgraced hs part when as waked
up through the garden to the house hs tte gr
caed out to me n gee : a e ou heard the
news Mahmud he ket Pasha t buets
n hm The dd we The chd put up her
hand as t hed a psto and made ck wth
her tongue repeated .
cred : or shame The dd extreme
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T T 131
. t s possb the end o Turke do ou
understand
he cred out : Mother ome and sten
The ngsh e sa s Mahmud he ket s kng
s the end o Turke
er mother then came round the corner o the
house and e ed me wth the sort o goatng sme
whch ha e seen upon the countenance o rab
bo s when torturng some brd or beast n order to
get mone out o toursts. he trumphed n her
own mmunt rom what et.
The end o Turke she sad supercous
n rench u ng me the whe rom ha -cosed
e es. hard thnk so Turke anc w
sur e the death o that ou are so upset
b ths sma matter what w ou be to-morrow
when ou hear that hundreds o that canae ha e
been ked
was gong to rep when the master o the house
appeared and bade me wecome n sardonc tones.
e ushered me ndoors nto the great recepton
room where ound a ew or an rmenan
cannot sa whch snce the man s name was not
mentoned n m presence n the seat o honour
an e -ookng back-browed hook-nosed man wth
predator e es. To ths personage was pre-
sented wth a mockng augh as Monseur
Pcktha e ameux nonste. The tone m
host empo ed throughout the nter ew was
downrght rude to me. ut coud not hod hm
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132 T T T T M
ute responsbe or what he sad snce t was
e dent that he was wd agtated. e coud
not keep st a moment but kept strdng o to
the remotest corners o the room returnng to
dscharge some resh o ence at me. bee e
that the rmenan stor he must thnk ha e
been an rmenan or the ews are amost who
o the oung Turk part was a hanger-on o
the consprac . n a the passonate dsastrous
uarres o the Turks there s a hrstan some-
where pa ng Mephstophees as t woud seem
rom pure and smpe o e o msche or ts own
sake. t an rate he had |ust come wth news o
the assassnaton. e ga e me a ew detas that
had not heard be ore as that what caused the
stoppage o the Grand er s motor-car was a
Musm unera.
The suspect that t was not a rea unera
put n our host wth mock soemnt and then
went o nto another o hs ner ous aughs.
owe er that ma be ths mght personage
s dead as dead as a m Do ou understand
The rmenan then to change the sub|ect
seeng dsked t n ured pote whether
en|o ed m sta n Turke . orget exact what
m answer was but whate er t was t brought
m host back n a ash rom the ar corner o the
room. e came cose but dd not con ront me
whe he cred :
ou make a ths uss about the man the
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T T 133
ha e |ust ked as he an thng to ou
as he a rend o ours Dd ou know hm at
a we a e ou a cear dea what sort o man
he was
e then began to pour abuse upon the character
o Mahmud he ket Pasha owng that he spoke
rom knowedge o the man. suppose m sten-
ng ace betra ed dsgust or the rmenan who
was watchng me wth hs hawk e es sad so t :
perce e that ou are dsapponted n the
Turks.
s sme and a sght shrug hs shouders ga e
appeared to be drected at our host n some
derson.
had borne the rudeness o the atter cam
or t was ob ous the outcome o deep eeng.
s agtaton and bad temper were ndeed more
s mpathetc to me than had been the ght
phosoph o the nonst Turk whom had e t
at Msket anum s. e was a rend o mne and
coud see that hs o ens e tone proceeded rom
anno ance that shoud ha e seen hm thus thrown
o hs baance. The man at an rate possessed
a conscence whch tormented hm or some sma
share that he had had n the consprac . s
rudeness coud not me wth the deep dsgust
et at the attempt o that rmenan a bad ange
o the Turks to cam a eow- eeng wth me.
ot atogether but hate ther parastes
or somethng o that sort was m rep . Therewth
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134 T T T T M
rose to go. The master o the house was |ust
then sa ng that the ncdent o whch chose to
make so great a uss was rea o but er sma
mportance. e tred a careess augh. sad
that as was no Turk coud not take a cheer-
u ew o pubc crmes. regarded them as
so much stupd bruta useess sacr ce o es
whose aue to the countr at that moment was
nestmabe.
s or useess we sha see he answered rom
set teeth. t ths moment t ma be that the
nonst Go ernment has aen ne er to rse agan.
Then breakng sharp o he added : h ou
ngsh ow can ou understand what we
endure ha e awa s sad that rench and
ngsh peope are too ar o rom us to understand.
ou we- ed men ou bame the hungr mae-
actor
er thng n ngand he decared ran smooth .
There was a ast machne whch worked amost o
tse the men were o but sght mportance as
compared wth the machne whereas n Turke
there was no machne the men were e er thng.
t was a persona. nd aw was not so we
estabshed and respected but that men who had a
gre ance or dea ked or t.
he he was decamng thus bowed to the
rmenan sauted hm and marched out. The
ad o the house a decate prett woman
and her tte gr were st n the same pace be-
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T T 135
neath a bower o banksa roses whch |ust then
caught the coour o the sunset.
ou know what s gong on there now she
cred at m approach stretchng out her arm
towards tambou n whch drecton a h wth
some antastca kosks upon t stood up n s-
houette aganst the settng sun.
top and sten or one mnute the sma
chd caed out. The dd we do assure ou
to k Mahmud he ket.
at t to-morrow ou w thnk o ths
as nothng then her mother sent behnd me wth
a merr augh.
M rends had changed be ond a recogn-
ton. rom hgh c sed peope the had
turned to sa ages n a moment at the scent o
a bood eud or that was the true nature o the
part strugge n ther e es. The sa ager was
akan hard Turksh. The Turksh atttude
towards boodshed s exemp ed n the remark
o our nonst rend upon the tdngs o the
murder : hen one s Grand er one must
expect to be assassnated. Ma God ha e merc
on hm uttered wth a peasant sme. The
satc Turks are snguar unre enge u or so
bra e a race. t s the uropean che the
banan eement so strong among the rcher
casses whch cas or murder n the part str e.
ur tte compan was so depressed that e enng
that the Greek mad n surprse rebuked us sa ng
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136 T T T T M
that the murder o a Turk was no such matter o
concern. er chaenge ang to produce the
usua argument she et aarm or our condton
and ad sed us a to go to bed.
ew peope magne n our age got a wnk
o seep that nght or a bee ed a re outon
woud ha e taken pace be ore the mornng. s a
o er o sam was m se a pre to great anxet
or the man who had been ked that da was the
one man whom knew to ha e the w and the
capact to sa e hs countr rom the hundred
enemes nsde and out who threatened ts ex-
stence and so sa e sam rom undeser ed
humaton and a conse uent re a o anatcsm.
the Go ernment hed rm there mght st be
some hope n case o re outon whch seemed
then the ar more probabe e ent the reactonares
woud obtan the power such as t was and hated
as the were b the ma|ort woud ean or ther
support on oregn go ernments known enemes.
The end mght be de erred awhe but t was sure
n that case.
eaned out o m wndow a ter mdnght
stenng n the drecton o the ct . ut the task
was hopeess or the nght was u o noses. t
was brght as da wth moonght. Three nght-
ngaes were sngng oud cose at hand the rogs
were uackng raucous around the ake cocks
were crowng dogs were howng and a bek|
watchman n the dstance was shrng the
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T T 137
accustomed cr o anghn ar There s
a re. s cr drew nearer and then earnt
that the re n ueston was mes awa at u uk-
dereh up the osphorus. Desrous as was o
catchng sounds more dstant sounds o shootng
an such were oatng n the ar was
astonshed b the oume o the common noses
o the nght whch seemed to me unusua and
conscous. t was the per ect Turksh mdnght
o the poets. The shrouded trees were sghng
to the moon. The nghtngae kept shrekng to
the rose G u G u G u G u ch ch
ch ose rose rose rose open open open
The rogs about the ake dscussed ther busness
aso n Turksh words dstnct audbe : mar
gha eh ar 6 ur|um ar
er da kurtu mar gha es what s
the matter am n debt. Pa and get ree
Gusts o per ume rom the garden came and
went. The ew kosks dsco erabe rom m pont
o antage showed ghted attces. Ther nmates
had no thought o seep that nght. e ond the
urthest shapes dscernbe a pear hor onta
geam a knd o netted radance marked the sea.
Man s kngshp o er nature was an empt boast.
The word beonged more tru to the rogs and
nghtngaes who ha e t ma be doubts o man s
exstence.
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PT
T T
ext mornng wth the rst sunght was out
wakng n the ma e o a enues whch stretched
between the age and the sea. The trunks o
pane and muberr trees red-staned n spashes
b the sun s rst ra s the m ster o ther enormous
shadows |oned to the hea rong oage made
o the suburban thorough ares a sacred gro e the
haunt o n mph and aun whe be ond the
twsted coumns and the shade the sea was sb
the sea whch ason saed the sea whose oam ga e
brth to phrodte. trange as t ma seem such
cassca usons oursh n the atmosphere o
Turke rather than n that o modern Greece.
eed and shrouded woman ttng under the
trees rom one garden-gate to another brought ths
home to me. he beonged to the unconscous
ancent word. The Turks preser e the od Greek s
o e o beaut or ts own sake hs deght n sea-
sde stas coonnades whte tempes soemn
c press-gro es hs cear poetc ga e at o e and
death whereas the modern Greek s romance s
smp mone .
138
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T T 139
waked a me or two aong the aghdad road
to open countr between the purpe mountans
and the shore. The word was we astr or
Turks are ear rsers. Peasants wth buock
waggons aden mues or donke s passed me gong
nto one or other o the andng-stages on the
osphorus. new whte mos ue among some trees
nand attractng me made or t across the eds.
poetca nscrpton stated that t had been
erected b a Pasha o the neghbourhood n memor
o hs beo ed w e whose name t bore. t was a
o e tempe n a o e spot but or the natoan
rawa runnng cose at hand and e en that was
more ncongruous than ug . snge ne o
metas ran aong the mdde o a broad rough road
bus wth the mornng tra c o the dstrct whch
road meandered among wooded gardens occuped
b uant kosks. Men n brght cooured cothng
back and whte eed women horses sheep and
oxen mo ed upon t. Pursung t n m wa home
happened on a outh whom knew sght
returnng rom the rawa staton whther he had
gone or news. e tod me that the Go ernment
hed rm.
the Turksh papers at the staton had been
sod be ore the gardener who went each da to bu
one or us got there. There ore heard no urther
detas t went to town. started about ten
o cock to nd on m arr a n tambou that
the state unera accorded to the Grand er was
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40 T T T T M
o er. t had been was assured a most mposng
ceremon attended b the representat es o a
the Powers oowed and watched b patrotc
crowds. ne o the assassns Topa Te k ame
Te k had been caught the tod me and the
poce were con dent o a ng hands on a the
others. The humbe unera or whch the
Grand er had stopped hs car had been pro ed
upon n estgaton to be genune the men who
ed t absoute gnorant o an pot. The con-
sprators had drawn up ther car besde the pubc
ountan on one sde o the s uare o utan
a a d meanng to run t out and bock the wa
or Mahmud he ket s motor. The appearance
n the nck o tme o a unera processon ng
up a street made narrow b some budng opera-
tons then n progress remo ng the necesst or
ths manoeu re the had |umped out and run
the ew steps necessar n order to re pont bank
at ther ctm. a ng ache ed ther ob|ect
the had scurred back and set o n the motor
at a urous pace attractng genera notce a
act whch was o sgna hep to the poce n ther
researches a except Topa Te k who beng
ame and conse uent sower than the rest was
e t behnd. e mped back to the ta ern where
he odged and was arrested there a ew hours
ater. The scene o the assassnaton was the
space mmedate be ore the mos ue o utan
a a d known to toursts as the pgeon
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T T 141
mos ue whose coster s among the gores o
tambou.
akng about the streets ound them |ust as
usua except that the patros were doubed and
that here and there at ponts o antage troops
were pcketed. The busness o the town pro-
ceeded |ust as usua. t struck me remember
as remarkabe that nether n m gong or m
comng dd meet a snge bera o m ac uant-
ance. hen remarked to a man who came and
taked to me upon the absence o some notabe
rom hs accustomed pace he aughed and
sad :
The are a n t rom am Pasha that hgh
pattern o respectabt beo ed o ngand to
mserabe hangers-on ke Topa Te k. e
the ha e brought t on themse es the had
ther warnng. ou remember what a uss was
made when am Pasha was orbdden to reman
here. Man peope thought t hard on the od
man but ema e had certan n ormaton
and he warned them then.
e added gra e that the danger was b no means
o er whch seemed to be the genera opnon.
group o mtar cadets wth whom tra eed
on the homeward boat were n a state o wd
exctement and anxet . The had a been to
the unera o Mahmud he ket. Most o them
had known the bessed mart r as the caed hm
persona n hs capact as Mnster o ar
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142 T T T T M
and ther cr was a or engeance on hs
murderers.
The ha e san the best hope o our countr
cred one outh an rab. the k Taaat
ema and a do en more as the propose there
w be no one e t to gude and sa e the naton.
These oung men drawn rom e er uarter
o the Turksh mpre who a ter eght or ten
ears stud n the capta are once agan dspersed
throughout the d erent pro nces are a auabe
asset o oung Turke . Ther rage on ths occason
dd me good. n Turke one grows sometmes
wear o resgned phosoph .
That e enng as we sat at dnner a messenger
arr ed wth the news that certan o our neghbours
wshed to st us at ha -past eght o cock.
Peasure was o course expressed on the announce-
ment but a good dea o embarrassment was et
b us or the stors were the oung coupe
had caed upon the da be ore the same who had
betra ed such sa age gee on hearng o the murder
o poor Mahmud he ket. e agreed as ar as
mght be to keep con ersaton dstant rom the
burnng topc began recoect b a ng out
some rench and German ustrated papers o
whch Msket anum kept a store to make matera
or con ersaton. ut the par t pro ed had come
to tak o nothng ese reso ed to ha e the matter
out wth me. The dd not apoogse or ther
beha our o the pre ous da ne er knew a
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T T 143
Turk whose prde woud brook the noton o apoog
where one was serous due but the made con-
cessons and decded o ertures. The man and
embarked on a ong argument whch ed at ength
to understandng though wthout agreement.
con essed that part madness was excusabe consder-
ng the harassed state o Turke and he admtted
n the end that t was undesrabe gong so ar as
to descrbe both partes as two couds o greed
crows ntent upon the bod potc. ur rend-
shp ar rom beng weakened b the wrange was
con rmed.
t remans howe er to be seen he sad at
partng whether the nonsts w be abe to
nd men to the acant paces n the Mnstr .
ew men w choose to court assassnaton. The
are to be pted tru . ths buster and parade
o strength procams ther weakness.
ut though the acant posts were ed but
sow saw no sgn o ear or weakness n the
Go ernment. ne da when was gong nto
town b tran there entered m compartment at
a wa sde staton that same n uenta member o
the ommttee o non and Progress who had
shown me kndness n the matter o the akan
massacres. e was one o the new mnsters a
man marked out or murder. et he appeared
as merr as a schoobo . hen o ered m
ectatons to hm apoogsng or the word as
hard ttng n the crcumstances he aughed
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144 T T T T M
and sad that someone must hep carr on the
go ernment. t adar Pasha where we a got
out saw hm beam to rght and e t returnng
the saute o notabes cappng oung men on the
shouder hs bene oent arge ace express e o
the hghest gee.
That da had been asked to uncheon b a
rend and andng at the rdge went straght to
hs abode. e haed me wth a |ot whch
seemed a tte shockng n an ntmate o Mahmud
he ket Pasha on that the rst occason o our
meetng snce the sad e ent.
e he n ured ha e ou made up our
mnd about our partes et an ou now
d erentate them and de ne them cear
sad that shoud ca the beras the osmo-
potan the nonsts the atonast Turksh
part that the atter seemed to me to wsh to
rase the common peope to ntegent partcpa-
ton n the work o go ernment whe the ormer
wshed wthout mae oence towards the sub|ect
peope to keep thngs prett near as the were
securng ther own status as the rung cass and
gurng as wardens o the Powers o urope o er
sa age hordes but that the erce reactonar
atttude recent assumed b beras n m
opnon put them out o court.
ra o he cred. ut what s our opnon
o these ast e ents e ha e now got the sts
o those to be assassnated. t s ength . The
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T T 145
consprators who bound themse es h oath to
do the work are man . Most o them are st
at arge. ut ema e s wonder u. e has
arranged thngs so that the k hm and a the
present eaders go ernment w st go on.
tte dsappontment or them eh The stua-
ton s both nterestng and amusng.
M rend seemed strange happ and n better
heath than had e er seen hm or he was genera
somethng o an n ad. e too was on the st
ound out ater. t rea does exharate a man
o eeng to ha e the compcated and dstractng
anes behnd hm reduced to one pan ssue or
hm sudden death. To de s such an eas thng
or man to do the smpest thng o a as Turks
behod t.
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T M D T P
t was surprsng when came to thnk o t how
man persons whom used to meet contnua
had dsappeared about the tme o Mahmud
he ket Pasha s death beng summoned sudden
to urope or to dstant parts o Turke . The
Go ernment had had an nkng o the pot or
man weeks and ema e the commandant de
pace go ernor o the ct under marta aw
had warned the rngeaders that the were beng
watched whch ma account or some o those
abrupt departures. ut as the sad ema e
was one o the rst three dgntares who were to
ha e been murdered the ma|ort o the suspected
aughed at hm bee ng that ther pans were
too we ad or aure. ndeed the o erweenng
con dence o the consprators wthout the east
oundaton as t pro ed s ps choogca the
most curous eature o the whoe a ar. or
exampe the sent notce to the oregn embasses
that there woud be a change o go ernment on
such a da and asked that saors mght be anded
to protect the hrstan uarter the dea behnd
146
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T T P 147
ths acton beng to create a panc a ourabe to
ther desgns whch the ne er seemed to doubt
were peasng to the Powers o urope.
That the had a tte ground or ths pre-
sumpton s true or the ussan and the rtsh
mbasses especa had n the past been hoste
to the oung Turks endng the weght o a
ther n uence to am Pasha s part o whch
the am was to estabsh somethng ke the od
regme. More astonshng was the undoubted
sncere bee o the consprators that the were
popuar and that the naton as a whoe woud
wecome ther return to power. The ewed
themse es as sa ours o ther countr and deemed
ther cause so pan rghteous that t must appea
to e er one. n pont o act the were detested
b the common peope at an rate wthn a ten
me radus o the capta. Durng m sta n
Turke there were on two occasons when
notced an thng resembng pubc eeng as we
understand the term n ngand that s keen
ndgnaton shown b ordnar uet peope on
potca e ents a phenomenon unknown n
Musm countres ormer when pubc sent-
ment cung on to regous uestons. ne was
the a o dranope the other the assassnaton
o the Grand er. remember o erhearng
two o our a gardeners cursng some rends o
ours we-known or beras. The head gardener
was o opnon that the needed hangng much more
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148 T T T T M
than dd ur mn and Topa Te k two o
the assassns poor men mere nstruments whom
such as the had bought wth god. e woud
ha e ked he sad hmse to drag them out o
ther ne house down to the age co ee-shop
where the mght earn what honest peope and
good Musms thought o them. The speaker
wshed the Go ernment mght take them a.
ach da we had the news o resh arrests n
our own age there were e one mornng unt
the prsoners were numbered b the hundred. Pera
was thrown nto a panc b the nose o rng n
her mdst a batte ragng round a house o -
repute where some o the consprators had taken
re uge and companed a tte that the mbasses
dd not pre ent the Turks rom makng such a
terr ng nose. ut Pera s a rabbt-warren or
pure ner es. The ron shutter o a shop e down
once n the man street at a bus hour when
n two mnutes the whoe street was empt e er
door was barred. or ong our bera rends
retaned a hope that the re outon woud break
out agan and meet success. ut ther agents were
outwtted and outmatched at a ponts. ot or
a moment dd the Go ernment g e wa to terror
whch the had counted on as ther most power u
auxar . The murderers o Mahmud he ket
Pasha the persons n the motor-car the whoe
dea had e dent been borrowed rom the motor-
bandt ncdents n Pars woud seem to ha e been
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T T P 149
terr ed b ther own deed or the ed wd
abandonng ther urther pro|ect whch had been
to dr e u speed to the ubme Porte and
occup ng the o ce o the Grand er to summon
other ctms n hs name. The pan mght ha e
succeeded b ts er darng had ts executon been
entrusted to whoe-hearted men nstead o hrengs.
ad the crmnas succeeded n the rst e mnutes
n kng Mahmud he ket Pasha ema a and
Taa at e accordng to ther hopes the mght
ha e stopped authort or a tme su cent to
aow them to make good ther strength but e en
that s doubt u or the case had been oreseen.
s t was a ter the rst e mnutes the ne er had
the east chance o success aganst a great com-
mander such as ema e . or da s the hunt
went on men o a condtons were arrested
the documents o the consprac were ound
among them a u st o members o the am
Pasha part and or once the en o s o the
Powers orbore to nter ene. menton ths
as t was much remarked among the Turks. M
che rend n the current o a ars consdered t
extraordnar . e sad he wshed that someone
woud n orm the rtsh Go ernment o the
n|ur that had been done to rtsh prestge n
onstantnope b our mbass ntrgung on ts
own account. hen asked to know precse
what he meant he tod me he re erred partcuar
to ntrgues upon beha o am Pasha and hs
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T T T T M
coeagues |ust be ore the akan war. Turke
had he sad been g en to understand that am
Pasha carred wth hm the support o ngand.
The rtsh mbass had worked hard or am
and he must suppose that t had acted n ths
case wthout nstructons rom the rtsh Go ern-
ment snce no support whate er was ouchsa ed
to the od man durng hs bre dsastrous term o
o ce. The beras knew as we as he dd et
st more btter than dd the nonsts upon
ths sub|ect sa ng open that the had been
betra ed b ngand. e had nothng aganst
am Pasha persona he assured me except
that he was much too od or pubc busness
a great dea oder than he sad he was we o er
nnet . The countr and the arm woud ne er
ha e toerated hm nor the mnstr o whch he
ormed a part but or the bee whch as he sad
appeared to ha e a good oundaton that he carred
wth hm the support o ngand. That support
meant more to Turks |ust then than part trumphs.
ha e here put md wthout comment the
purport o perhaps a do en con ersatons.
Then came the tra b court marta o the
host o prsoners. thought that the actua
murderers on shoud be put to death but
e er bod aughed at m dea as weakness and sad
a great exampe must be made. Ths was no
common murder was asked to bear n mnd.
number o weath n uenta persons had tred
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T T P 151
to o erthrow the tate at a tme when speca
aws were as the per ect we knew n orce or
ts protecton. t woud be a sn to et them go
and punsh hrengs on . Ths ew was that o
e er Turk knew who had no act e s mpath
wth the consprators. The death or as the
caed t mart rdom o Mahmud he ket Pasha
had aarmed the whoe communt and uet men
who had t then dsowned both partes were now
nonsts. The contenton whch o ten heard
rom beras that the deed was taken at ts worst
ar engeance or the death o a m was not
endorsed b an Turk outsde that part . Dre
punshment was ooked or and t came. ome
who had ed the countr were condemned to death
b de aut man more were exed twe e were
hanged. To show the aue o a punshment
whch seemed to me excess e : a er peace u
aw-abdng ran merchant whom know beng
n tambou went to see the bodes hangng
on the gbbets and touched one o them. e tod
the tae wth pacd sats acton. Then et
more com ortabe he sad or then knew or
certan that we had a go ernment.
ha e dwet at tedous ength upon the state
o partes n onstantnope t s because ase
ews are current on the sub|ect. m se was
utter msed n ngand and esewhere b the
account o men n a poston to be per ect n-
ormed thereo and went to Turke wth a
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152 T T T T M
pre|udce aganst the nonsts whch obscured m
|udgment or the rst three months. There s to
be obser ed n estern uropeans genera a
tendenc to sco at the bare thought o astern
progress. ut astern uropeans take a d erent
ew. The are aarmed est Turke shoud rse
up n earnest. M. Muko s reports o the reat
o Turksh progress precptated the ate akan
war. gan the knd o progress contempated
b the Turks and sanctoned b Mohammedan
tradton has a ook o socasm terr ng to
despotc ussa and probab dspeasng to a
uropean go ernments. t s there ore natura
that the oung Turks shoud ha e been con-
demned b urope but et none magne that
the condemnaton was n Turke s nterest.
The am o a the opposton was to hnder
an experment howe er nterestng whch mght
encourage and excte the neghbourng peopes
and aso to keep the ttoman mpre n a condton
to be present d ded up among ts hgh protectors.
or ths reason e er snce the e outon the
Powers ha e wecomed e er s mptom o re-
acton. t s on ar to add howe er that the
Turksh part o reacton does not see a ths
who absorbed as are ts members n ther own
contentons as aganst the nonsts. he the
nuceus o that part s compact o those who ound
ther pro t n the od regme t ncudes some men
o honest progress e notons who were dsgusted
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T T P 153
b the ear bunders o the nonsts or whose
sentment had been o ended b ther brus ue
re orms. or exampe the sad ate o the dogs
o onstantnope made man peope treat the
men concerned as mae actors. ha e heard t
soemn a erred that the de eat o Turke n the
rst part o the war as a |udgment on the countr
or that act o cruet . Men o some experence
n state a ars saw posts or whch the were
themse es we tted occuped b men o ea but
no experence and were conscous o a danger to
the countr . The pr eged cass o bdu
amd s da en|o ed a hgh degree o uxur as
we as reedom at the utan s peasure. ts
homes were beaut u ts women o ten hgh
cut ated whe man o ts members were amar
wth the art and thought o urope. The re-
cognsed no dut towards the peope o the and
but on towards the utan n whose hands the
were. Man o them were bene oent n pr ate
e but n ther pubc unctons the were orced
b ther attachment to an e s stem to consent
to crmes. t s probabe that most o them were
tru thank u or the re outon when t came.
There were aspects o the amdan dspensaton
whch must ha e sckened e er one except a down-
rght an and the perpetua ear the need o
crcumspecton ncdenta to the ser ce o the
t rant coud not but be rksome to ease-o ng
men. ad the re outon g en them the bert
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p
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1 54 T T T T M
t seemed to promse at the same tme preser ng
the od pompous atmosphere the o ed and not
attacked ther ortunes or ther rank most o them
woud thnk ha e been contented. t as
the ho n the rst da s o the onsttuton ere
most eager to ad ance at once to uropean
reedom. ut bert as understood b the re-
ormers meant no ad ance on that whch the
had pre ous en|o ed ute otherwse or the
were now no onger ords protected. or the
rst tme the were exposed and n a sense sub-
|ected to the pre|udces o the common peope
whose gnorance ga e aw to ther enghtenment.
The oung Turks paced ther whoe dea n the
uture ther present hope n educaton and re-
orms. The other part at ts best desred no ess
the naton s we are but ob|ected to the men and
brethren tone o the oung Turks as demagogc
and sub ers e o a order. The peope had a
proper pace and shoud be kept there.
entua the were dr en ar rom ther
orgna poston b the necesst o opposng e er
pro|ect o the enem . s an opposton whch
o course was needed the dd good. ghteen
months ago the had secured a arge share o popuar
s mpath . ut ther oence n opposton atter
outran ther patrotsm. To ca the oung Turk
rue a despotsm more terrbe than that o bdu
amd s bosh to use a common Turksh word.
The change n Turke or the better struck me as
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p
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T T P 155
mracuous though sted the countr n an
hour o great dsaster more especa when
consdered that the e ears o the re outon had
been ears o war. t s that dsturbance rom
wthout pre entng the re outon rom workng
out to a decded end and especa the ntrgues
o oregn go ernments aganst the new regme
whch caused the urous state o part eeng whch
ha e descrbed. n bre t s the aut o urope
rst and ast. urope wth ts accustomed ner ous
dread o popuar uphea a regarded the oung
Turks as upstarts nsoent bu ng an arstocrac
ther natura ruers. the amdan guard o
hgh o cas and ther hangers-on pcked as the
were rom an uarter at the t rant s peasure can
b an means be caed an arstocrac t was tru
the most upstart and the east e cent that the
word has e er seen. pon the other hand the
Turksh naton atogether ma be ar regarded
as an arstocrac the arstocrac o the whoe
Musm word. s such t s e cent and n au-
abe deser ng the entre support o an Power
whch has at heart the peace and we are o the
ast.
n perods o hstor such as that the Turks ha e
|ust been tra ersng men ee unsetted and resent
the eeng and ther resentment sometmes takes
the orm o madness. th peace the nsane
btterness woud soon subsde as peope grew
accustomed to the new condtons. The men
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156 T T T T M
who potted to destro the Turksh Go ernment
who murdered Mahmud he ket and were hanged
or exed were no worse than an o our ngsh
potcans o to-da except n that the ed n
maddenng tmes and were prepared to rsk ther
es or ther opnons.
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PT
T M T T
ne a ternoon upon the terraced ground n ront
o Msket anum s house shaded and screened
rom obser aton b the deodars a Turksh ad who
was sttng wth us a at once excamed hat
nose s that turned death pae and seemed
about to ant. The nose re erred to was a shout
or roar such as one hears n ngand at a ootba
match but so ar dstant that t had escaped the
notce o the rest o us. t was repeated when
we knew t or the Padshahm chok asha
ong e the utan whch Turksh troops uprase
on great occasons. e had heard t o ten n the
ast ew da s.
h horrbe whspered our stor stoppng
her ears. t s the rm o the est Poor
sous cannot bear t. org e m weakness.
et us go ndoors
he was the st outh u wdow o a Turksh
genera b brth an rab who had been assassnated
n bana the and rom whch the rm o the
est a that remaned o t had |ust returned.
e went ndoors and she reco ered uck beggng
157
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p
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8 T T T T M
us to o erook her ooshness. he woud not ha e
us or the w ord magne that Turksh women had
no orttude. ut her gre had been re ed
that da b tdngs that the Go ernment ntended
to brng home her husband s bod rom the dstant
and where t was bured or re-nterment wth the
heroes o the onsttuton upon the o er-
astng bert . nd the shout |ust now had come
so sudden remndng her o that bana whch
had caused so much dsaster to the Turks that t
had struck her heart. The condton o the rm
o the est she sad was terrbe be ond conce ng.
n the oowng da two students rom the rm
Medca choo took uncheon wth us and n the
a ternoon a ne whte-bearded Turk a amous
poet and a senator surprsed us wth a st.
The oung men tod wth gee the stor o a rot
at ther schoo upon the pre ous da . hen
the rst nstament o the rm o the est
was dsembarked at adar Pasha the garden near
the Medca choo was used or a camp hospta
and the students were re ured to go and hep
n t. ur two n ormants cenched ther teeth
ther e es ashed erce as the spoke o the
condton o the soders. Man were demented
or had ost ther memor but those who coud
speak had reated uncompanng a tae o such
cod-booded cruet rom so-caed Musms to
ther Musm brothers as sent the bood o a the
students to the head. The banans coud no
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T M T T 159
onger be accounted Musms. ten o cock
that nght not one banan student was e t n
the Medca choo. o oence was done to
those expeed the were smp tod that
ther race had or eted a part n Turke that
the shoud no onger rece e Turksh Go ernment
nstructon and thrust out. Msket anum sad
she thought t hard upon the ads who were them-
se es ute nnocent o an crme. he ooked
to the od poet to con rm her ew o the e ent
but he dd nothng o the knd excamng wth a
pacd sme :
ah the dd we our Turksh bo s
bame them not. oud God that e er one o
that accursed race were out o Turke
e then tod a stor o hs own experences
wth banans whch though t smacked o bathos
n the context threw d ght on Turksh e
n amdan da s da s whch seem now remote
as the crusades so utter has e er cause o
ther unhappness been swept awa . ou must
pcture the narrator as a thn-nosed bue-e ed
genteman o se ent -three wth sma thn hands
a tte tremuous crossed on the s er hande o
hs wakng-stck a whte beard reachng amost
to hs wast the e worn ow upon a nobe ore-
head n bre the ng mage o a that s most
decate re ned and studous n man.
had a garden once he sad a garden whch
o ed amost as beaut u as ours he bowed
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p
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6o T T T T M
to Msket anum . t was at u uk-dereh
on the osphorus. had some beaut u od trees
and man owerng and sweet-scented shrubs.
was accustomed to the pace and coud thnk
deep thoughts there ookng rom the shade across
to sa. hoped to end m da s there was er
happ . ut was dr en rom t b an enem
es b an enem n tme o peace was dr en
rom t b banans.
n an e hour t seemed our rend had hred
two oung banans as hs gardeners. The dro e
awa another man empo ed a Turk o natoa
and wshed hm to engage a rend o thers.
The dd not work we the were a and nsoent.
t ength the poet a ter consutaton wth hs
rends et t to be hs dut to dsmss them both.
The rogues aughed mpudent and re used to
go. The then began to tease and torture hm n
arous wa s spong the garden the were pad to
tend. e put up wth a great dea a er great
dea he assured us but when the took to cuttng
down hs beaut u od trees hs prde and usng
them or rewood he et he coud endure no
more.
t s er troubesome to me to make a scene
the od man tod us n hs gente oce. ha e
awa s been a o er o tran ut and medtaton.
nger s er d cut or me. owe er such
mpertnence and nsurrecton was more than
coud bear. tod them shoud ha e recourse to
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p
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T M T T 6
the poce and dd so. n that the dd at ength
depart but wth an oath o engeance. th the
assstance o some more banans hred bra oes
o a great man n the go ernment who co ered
a ther expots wth hs hgh protecton the
ad such terror on m house that coud keep no
ser ant. The spot m garden runed a m
owerng shrubs and made m rends a rad to
come and see me wthout escort. The sent me
word that the woud k me dd not ea e that
pace. e n the end sod m house and and
and emgrated to the pace now nhabt. ut
ths new house has ne er seemed ke home to me
though ha e ed there now or twent ears and
more. The dsturbance to m e was too se ere.
am er gad most tru gad that the ha e
turned out the banans. The od man rubbed
hs hands and smed as he concuded.
s stor sheds some ght on a dsputed pont
or the oung Turks ha e been bamed or ther
se ert towards banans. banans were the
anssares o the amdan age. The open
de ed the aw respectng nothng sa e the purse
whch pad them. o weak man s e or propert
was sa e. hen the re outon came the probem
o dsposng o them was one o the most cruca
whch the oung Turks had to ace. The aced
t as some sa too s uare . ot on were the
bra oes banshed rom onstantnope but the war
was e en carred nto ar bana. The campagn
4
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p
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1 62 T T T T M
whch a d Pasha ought n order to en orce the
aw or the dsarmng o the moutaneers was erce
and ruthess there ore the banans turned on
Turke n her hour o need betra ed anna
murdered man Turksh o cers and star ed the
broken and retreatng rm o the est com-
manded b the same a d Pasha who had been
ther scourge whose soders the reduced to
eatng grass n sght o ood. banans ha e
great uates and the shoud make a aant
naton. t s the demand or them as mercenares
whch has been ther bane t now. The deser e
and w mantan ther ndependence. ut thank
God Turke s now ut o them.
Gong nto town one da m w e and on
andng at the rdge got mxed up n a crowd
o ragged soders. he cutched m arm n
sudden terror and whspered n m ear hat
troops are these ha e een nothng ke these
men be ore n Turke . e had gone up to the
camp at cutar the da be ore and she had taken
snapshots o the groups o we- ed we-dressed
men who won her heart b ther deght at beng
photographed. ook at ther e es h t
s horrbe Poor men hat ha e the seen to
make them ook ke that
agged unkempt and bandaged here and there
the waked as men but ha awake and o ten
stumbed. Ther aces bore the stamp o aw u
su erng. The presence o a ga and spendd
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p
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T M T T 163
Turksh o cer on horseback wth a dapper sergeant
n attendance engaged n marshang them n the
roadwa or ther march to uarters made ther
wretchedness the more apparent. ut as m
w e had sad t was ther e es whch made one
shudder e es xed and part ga ed ke those
o men who de n horror or ese mere mad.
t s on the rm o the est sad home
rom bana.
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PT
T T
t was the tme o res the hot dr season when a
spark w set aght the wooden houses o whch
the ages and a good part o tambou and
Ghaata consst. ach nght we heard the cr o
anghn ar up ted b the watchmen as
the went ther rounds. The s stem whch enabes
a whoe regon to be warned drect b the watch-
men when a re breaks out at an pont s ancent
but remans e cent to the present da e cent
that s as concerns the speed and gour o the
warnng though ha e occasona wondered what
good purpose coud be ser ed b warnng a pro-
pretor who es suppose at G u -tepeh that a
house beongng to hm was on re at Makr-keu
or Therapa at mdnght when the tdngs can
do nothng but destro hs rest. e ormers much
desre to see stone houses e er where repace the
wooden ones but n spte o the recurrence o
dsastrous res pubc opnon st remans n
a our o the atter because the are ess dangerous
n case o earth uake a more dread u ess
re uent staton.
164
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T T 165
Msket anum s house was but o stone and she
pronounced t rom experence to be ute sa e n
the e ent o a great earth uake. t was a ueston
she assured us mere o oundatons. the
oundatons were made ast and strong the house
woud stand sght the house woud a.
ut such mmense oundatons cost much mone
and so the poor per orce pre er ght wooden
structures.
n the months o une and u 191 3 the season
o res was not regarded as a norma season. The
go ernment attached unusua mportance to each
outbreak n the ct guarded ts neghbourhood
at once wth troops and worked or the extncton
o the re wth more than common ea. The
con uson whch arses natura upon scenes o
such dsaster mght t was thought be made the
nuceus o nsurrecton nor were the consprators
man o whom st urked n hdng esteemed so
hgh-soued as to be abo e ncendarsm. ha e
snce heard uropeans compan btter o the
precautons taken b the commandant when res
occurred b da as a t rannca and senseess nter-
rupton o the tra c o the ct . can on sa
that the were sanctoned b the stuaton as
saw t rom wthn. we remember the excte-
ment o our bera rends one a ternoon n
Msket anum s garden when a coumn o brown
smoke was seen rsng abo e the h o gardens and
kosks whch bounded our hor on towards tam-
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66 T T T T M
bou and ther sghs o dsappontment when at
e enng one o our men returnng rom the ct
tod them that the re had been suppressed wthout
the east dsorder. The were watng or a re
as sgna o that re outon n o ng the exter-
mnaton o the oung Turk part or whch the
st kept hopng aganst hope.
ne da n Pera sttng a ter uncheon wth
m host a Turk and nonst heard the shout o
re and present behed a uant processon pass
the wndow at hgh speed. Three horse re-
engnes ther dr ers and attendants wearng a
strange barbarc orm o hemet such as hna-
men once wore were escorted on ther mad career
b crowds o runnng remen dressed n cooured
ests and shorts ke g mnasts. These a had wd
e es and that stern ook about the mouth whch
ha e notced n g ptan watchmen when mad-
dened b a sense o dut the do nothng wth
tremendous ur .
ou augh m rend obser ed and ou
do rght. t s an empt show. Those men whom
ou ha e |ust seen passng punder when the
get the chance. t best the on dance about
among the burnng budngs bra e the re and
endea our to show o ther darng n the pubc
e e. The get n the wa o the rea workers
who are genera soders. ast amount o orce
and energ thus runs to waste among us e er da .
Ths eaborate re-s stem though e cent as a
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T T 167
dr or exercse has ne er b ms ortune been
drected at the actua re.
Tappng on the wndow he then beckoned a
poceman who was passng b . The man ran up
sautng.
here s the re m rend n ured.
ow down between the brdges be e endm
s t a bg one
ke be e endm
ew mnutes ater when we took a carrage to
go o er to tambou our dr er tod us that a
strong cordon o troops pre ented our gong b
the straght road to the rdge.
n account o the re m rend uestoned.
ho knows be e endm was the answer
as the man whpped up hs wretched horses.
though the war as we then thought was ended
none o the decent horses commandeered or t had
et come back nto the ct streets. The con-
|uncton o bad beasts wth h roads produced
some crue ashng whch when seen b toursts
breeds a pre|udce aganst the Turks athough
the hackne coachmen at an rate upon the Pera
sde are most hrstans. n our own age
where the araba|s were Mohammedans saw no
cruet . n the same wa ha e heard peope n
ngand sa the hated Turks because o the wa
the sad Turks eered at women n the ar s
ourt xhbtons when to m certan knowedge
the ob|ectonabe persons gmcrack sta-hoders
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68 T T T T M
were ran hrstans to a man. er one who
wears a e beng a Turk to the unntated ma
perhaps be pardoned ths dgresson to pont out
that ttoman hrstans aso wear the e and n
one pont at east ha e earned the Turks a bad
name undeser ed . The Turks are genera er
knd to anmas.
The straght road to the rdge beng thus
barred our carrage was obged to go a ong wa
round and e en then when not ar rom the
pont desred was stopped b soders n a narrow
street and ordered to go back. To turn the horses
there was ute mpossbe ther backng was a
tcksh and ner e-rackng process howe er we
at ength emerged. The dr er tred another
turnng. e were stopped agan. Ths tme we
aghted and dsmssed the carrage. M rend
who was a man n some authort we-known b
sght to e er Musm n the ct essa ed to pass
the group o soders who had stopped us. The
spread out nstant and barred the wa wth
assak t s orbdden be e endm
e endea oured to remonstrate wth them
pontng out that t was not n our ntentons
to go near the re whose whereabouts coud be
ocated b a coud o smoke a good wa o . t
assak be e endm was the answer.
entured to suggest to m companon that a
e-paster pece mght o ercome the d cut .
e aughed at that amd hs rrtaton.
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T T 169
Dear rend he sad we are not deang
now wth the tuumba|s the runnng remen
and a the rubbsh whch the t p the pctur-
es ue corrupt od pageant o admnstraton. e
are con ronted now b ema e and dscpne
b somethng ng stern and capabe whch
w pease God n tme absorb the other. These
soders know me and m n uence. e sure
the re use us passage knowng me the woud
not grant t or a Turksh pound apece. These are
the wrong knd o men to o er brbes to. Tr
the sma o cas and the doorkeepers o pubc
budngs.
e then amused ourse es b crcumambuat-
ng the cordon whch was compete and strong
soatng a whoe uarter o the town. ad the
outbreak been the work o re outonares the
coud hard ha e escaped and no ren orcements
short o a traned arm coud ha e come to them.
onsderng the rapdt wth whch the operaton
had been carred out or the troops we heard
were there be ore the remen and the e dent
de oton o the men empo ed shared m
rend s enthusasm when he murmured ema
e s a man
ut the nterrupton o a busness n a busness
uarter was natura not apprecated b the men
o busness who when there was no nsurrecton
a ter a procamed t senseess. The Turks we
w agree are most unbusnesske ther commerca
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170 T T T T M
nstncts are comparat e unde eoped the
st pa re erence to soders poets and the earned
rather than nancers and pr e the honour o
ther naton abo e god. et t cannot be dened
that the possess a g t or management and are
at present makng gant strdes towards that
e cenc whch uropeans genera deem the
hghest good. The ha e accepted once or a
the pont o ew o urope and are usng e er
e ort to e up to t. that the ask s ea e
to work out ther own probems and ad ance to
modern progress n the wa the understand.
uropeans |udgng them b urope s smartest
standard nd them wantng. ut an man who
thnks o sa must thnk appaud them.
Turke s the present head o a progress e mo e-
ment extendng throughout sa and orth rca.
he s aso the one hope o the samc word.
That she shoud be encouraged to ad ance n n-
dependence on the so o urope brngng up the
ast seems more desrabe potca than that
urope shoud cut up and then expot the Turksh
mpre. The Pera atttude s rough ths : the
word s or the uropeans whch to the mnd o
astern hrstans means the hrstans no one
ese has an rght to pro t or consderaton. t
cannot sure be the atttude o rtsh statesmen
who are caed upon to rue an astern empre.
The progress whch the Turks are makng s genune
and rapd or a cose obser er. n ths matter
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T T 171
o the res a sma partcuar t ma be notced.
n the summer o 191 3 outbreaks were extngushed
much more prompt than had e er been the case
be ore thanks to the soders and the pro|ect
o a new re-brgade s beng mooted to be run on
mtar not g mnastc nes.
hen we waked round the cordon at three
o cock that a ternoon a consderabe re was rag-
ng sendng up dense couds o smoke. n hour
and a ha ater when rom the deck o a steamer
ooked out or t t was extngushed no smoke
was rsng rom the mass o pctures ue od houses
b the watersde.
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PT
TT M D T
M rend Mehmed was presented b hs parents
wth a pet amb whch seemed to me a u-
grown sheep an ob|ect o soctude to a the
househod and especa the gardeners who woud
run and extrcate t gent wth a ow o tender
words when at sght o strangers ke m se t
ran n sudden panc round the tree where t was
tethered and got hopeess entanged n ts rope.
bout the same tme smar pet ambs appeared
n man other o our neghbour s houses. The
cause o the phenomenon was n the Musm
caendar. e had arr ed at |ust that nter a
rom a great east re ured or the rght attenng o
amb. The act that the woud utmate ha e
to eat ther darngs was kept hdden rom the
chdren or known to them appeared as dm and
dstant as od age. ne saw am groups the
ather eadng a pet sheep the chdren ondng
t or cutchng at ts woo upon the steamers on
the osphorus and at the rawa statons where
be ore the bookng-o ce there s an a ar o
barrers ntended to contro the crowd when bu ng
172
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TT M D T 173
tckets. The poorer Turks and a the nat e
hrstans men and women howe er ong a
tme the ha e to spare are n arab panc-
strcken at the sght o persons bu ng tckets
and rush mad or the wcket ute regardess
o each other s we are. n the mdst o such a
scrmmage at the termnus once saw an un-
ortunate pet sheep appertanng to a man who had
|ust bought hs tcket and was tr ng to get out.
s chdren wth hm kcked and ought at the
surroundng egs protectng ther beo ed whch
escaped at ast unn|ured.
heep beng thus assocated n m mnd wth
ames t was wth ama ement that saw one n
possesson o a bacheor a oung man rom a
dstant pro nce o the mpre who knew had
no reatons n onstantnope. t was n the ong
shed on the oatng stage beow the rdge the
watng-room or those who are towards adar
Pasha. a ng |ust come n out o the bndng
sunght coud not trust m e es at rst. t
the ar end o the shant stood a gure n the neat
dark un orm o the Mtar choo the crescent
shnng on ts kapak o back astrakhan a gure
statonar under d cutes n ts strugge wth
a good-s ed sheep whch or e er made short
rushes to escape but was restraned b orce. t
seemed amar. stared and then drew nearer
starng st. mtar saute wth corda
bessngs n good rabc na dspeed a
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174 T T T T M
doubt. eturnng the saute n the c an manner
took a seat upon a packng case hard b the
strugger and compmented hm wth reser atons
as aganst the e e e upon the heath and beaut
o hs pet.
man Merc he excamed. t s not
mne. se no precautons urse t outrght
ou desre to do so or ah be m tness
detest t. was asked to hod t b a eow-
tra eer who sad that he woud not be gone a
mnute and here ha e been hangng on to t
or two whoe hours
e had no knowedge o the owner o the sheep
a knd o peasant had ne er seen hm n ths
word be ore. The man had come up |ust ke
that wth anum M sou or the o e o
ah ease me o ths amb a mnute. esought
thus or the o e o ah he coud not re use
athough he thought that peope used the name o
God too ght . suggested that he shoud pass
hs troube on to someone ese good-natured n
the same wa that t had been osted on to hm.
ut o was hs rep promsed that
woud hod the anma unt he came agan so
must do so.
e t hm hodng on to the pet amb whch was
not hs st struggng when ran on board the
steamer warned b a hoot that t was gong to
start. M partng words were : Ma our ord
ree e thee speed
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TT M D T 175
e was ree ed a ha hour ater as heard rom
hm at our next meetng when he man ested not
the east resentment o the ncdent and et woud
not consent to treat t as a |oke as dd. e chose
rather to regard t as s mboc o the need o a
the mpre or a course o tranng n responsbt .
The owner o the sheep was poor and ute -
terate he dd not recogn e the worth o tme
nor et the ca or strct adherence to a word once
uttered whereas he hmse m rab rend
ha ng been educated n the go ernment schoos
and beng an o cer o sorts nured to dscpne
had earnt the great mportance o these thngs.
There ore he kept hs word regous acknowedg-
ng a dut towards the poor man hs tormentor
as representat e o a the backward and msguded
persons n the ream. t was a dut o orbearance
and o educaton. e had dscharged t rst
b hodng on to that con ounded sheep or cose
upon three hours and second b readng the de-
n uent when he dd at ast return a esson whch
he woud remember to hs d ng da . ths he
tod me wth the eagerness o an aposte. The
ncdent was nothng bana nor anno ng n hs
memor snce he coud attach t to the great dea
o up tng patrotsm whch warms the bood and
res the bran o e er scon o the re outon.
Durng the sx months spent n Turke t was
m good ortune to know man o these chdren
o the new regme or m outook on the uture
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176 T T T T M
o that countr and o sam woud not ha e
been so hope u as t s. trct Musms wthout
superstton the are growng up n o e wth
dut proud o ther burden o responsbt
de oted to ther countr be ond words toerant
o a bee s whch do not sa our o sedton
thought u se -reant trustworth . The are
perhaps a shade pedantc a thought too serous n
ther opnons to attract the stranger but that s
but the outcome o the tmes the e n b no
means tmes o gaet or Turksh patrots. o
Turk perhaps n the same crcumstances woud
ha e been so tera and so punctous as was m
rab rend n deang wth so sma a probem
the d erence o mentat between the races awa s
struck me but a Turk o the same age and educa-
ton woud ha e hed the same opnons wth the
same enthusasm the same reso e to practse what
he preached.
hen hear ngsh peope takng o the Turks
as hopeess wth no tat e t n them no en-
thusasm and no prospects can on thnk that
the ha e ne er met wth the oung men o
Turke or ha e met wth those on who ha e
been educated among uropeans. n ths opnon
am hardened b the act that a the ttoman
oung men whether hrstan or Mohammedan
o m ac uantance n ormed me that was the
rst uropean wth whom the had e er hed
much con ersaton whereas the other t pe o
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TT M D T 177
outh ncnes to seek out uropeans and adopt
ther c nca and hopeess standpont towards
the Musm word. The od Musm educaton
medae a and regous has ceased to meet the needs
o the communt . The new Musm educaton
has but |ust begun but aread t s runnng
through the and ke wd re re ng the nnumer-
abe od oundatons brngng new ones nto e.
n the nter a the Turk and rab brought n con-
tact wth the wa s o urope has had to suppe-
ment hs Musm educaton b a so|ourn at some
msson schoo where hs ath n sam was
undermned wthout mparng hs contempt or
hrstant he was mbued wth the commerca
ath o urope whch derdes true patrotsm at
an rate as understood b Turks and n man
cases won to eong admraton o some oregn
power whose ser ant he became n the ntrgues
o a ter e. Thus am Pasha was the rend o
ngand another Pasha was the rend o rance
or German no one was especa the rend o
Turke . Turke dd not appear to them as a
beo ed countr but as a poston whch coud
on be mantaned b the a our o ths or that
great Power o urope. There was excuse or the
secesson o these nd duas rom the ttoman
naton ther cosmopotansm as the woud
ha e caed t proud n the od da s when
Turke groaned beneath a crue despotsm. The
naton then had rea no exstence. To-da the
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178 T T T T M
and s ree and bent on progress and nd no
excuse or ther contnued scorn o t.
or see what has been done n these e ears
snce the onsttuton was procamed e ears
o ceaseess troube rom wthout. The t rant s
spes the rch men s bra oes ha e been swept awa
sa er has been aboshed brgandage has been put
down. ane endea our has repaced the od cor-
rupton born o atasm. The arm has been ed
and cothed wth the resut that the dsorders whch
dsgraced the wretched soders n od da s ha e
dsappeared. uropean women n ther dress whch
st seems shame u to od- ashoned Turks can now
wak n the markets o tambou wthout ear o
beng pnched or husted as n Pera. Dark corners
o admnstraton ha e been brought to ght and
anatcsm ha ng no onger an pace n whch to
hde s gone has g en wa to an enghtened
patrotsm. The Turksh Post- ce and other
branches o admnstraton once deporabe now
ma be compared or ther e cenc wth the same
departments n the go ernment o uropean
countres. Turks can now speak and wrte ther
thoughts wthout the ear o murder or mprson-
ment. The can tra e rom onstantnope to
smd wthout a speca permt rom the go ern-
ment. n a drectons there has been mpro e-
ment and re orm. n e ears nd et the
Pera peope w n orm ou nothng has been
done. t ma be that the reckon ths as nothng
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TT M D T 179
when compared wth the ast work whch st re-
mans to do. ut thnk the expanaton o ther
atttude s rather that the ne er thnk about the
Turks at a nor care or the condton o the
countr sa e as t a ects themse es.
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PT
M P T D T
tandng eanng on the ra besde the hut
where the se tckets or the ad-keu steamer
watchng the mo ng swarm o tte boats between
the oatng pat orm and the ua so dense that
one coud see the water on momentar as a
ash or sparke here and there amd the throng
when someone comng up behnd me sad n rabc :
ow s our heath sage hat tdngs
rom rabstan
t was a oung cerk n one o the Mnstres
whom knew sght . e spoke rench we and
rabc abomnab but a ter a con ersaton n
the tran one e enng when had mantaned that
Turks ought to earn rabc rather than rench
he awa s when he met me subse uent ared hs
store o rabc apsng gradua nto Turksh
whch was b that tme amar to me pretendng
to ha e been con nced b m remarks on that
occason. e asked was gong to the boat
and earnng that to be the case caed m attenton
to the act that t had |ust come n. e mght
as we he thought repar on board and choose our

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p
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M P T D T 8
seats be ore the crowd arr ed. n a pre ous
occasons o our meetng had been attracted b
hs |o reckess ar but to-da he appeared
careworn and exceedng depressed. s con-
ersaton too was a despar. hen remarked
that thngs were ookng better or the Turks he
answered wth a shrug :
hat does t matter e are nshed
To g e us hope s on to proong our agon .
ow here am ou see me ha e had the
best o educatons. speak rench and German
uent . am as ntegent dare to thnk as
an rank on earth but t s a useess. am
oung and shoud the sa be hope u but what
hope exsts or me e are a ke that amess
undrected unabe to app our knowedge to the
work o e. e are nconse uent uncertan
n our actons ha ng no dea.
rom these remarks |udged m rend to be a
bera or snce the aure o ther great attempt
at re outon the a upon- occason taked ke that.
esdes the characterstcs whch he camed or
the whoe Turksh peope were not those o the
nonsts o m ac uantance.
hat s t that s wrong wth us he asked
rhetorca . nd when nterrupted wth :
thnk t s that ou are tr ng to be somethng
whch ou can ne er be somethng whch nobod
wth an sense woud wsh to be a uropean
he answered :
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82 T T T T M
o t s not that sage The reason s
the dread u es we e at home n pr ate.
ou knew our Turksh women ther gnorance
ther prde ther narrow mnds
s t happened dd know about a score o
them and had heard thnk t probabe more tak
o them than he had. knew them to be genera
charmng traned to submsson et hgh-sprted
and ar ess narrow-mnded than the women o
the est. ut dd not nterrupt hm b an
obser aton.
we en|o ed as ou do he contnued the
companonshp o w es o hgh ntegence we-
educated tact u capabe o understandng us and
partcpatng n our nteectua cares and nterests
we mght be men. s t s what are we ess
than nothng e go to schoo we earn a that
there s to know we work n our empo ment :
o what pro t s t The home e assure
ou runs a. th our women there s no
pretence at understandng possbe. The ha e
no c aton and no decac . e sha ne er
become men t that s atered. nd how to
ater t ask ou wth such women as ours so
obstnate and so anatca
e spoke wth e dent emoton and e en
anced at one moment that saw the teardrop
n hs e e. s the boat began to up wth the
e enng crowd o go ernment empo es return-
ng to ther countr houses he was haed on a
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M P T D T 183
hands. sua the most harous o ga com-
panons ths e enng he appeared morose and
a ter orma sautatons entrenched hmse behnd
hs newspaper and spoke no more. dd the same
t we were n the mdde o the osphorus when
ooked out as usua or the wnd-chasers or
sous o the damned tte sea-brds e er ng
up towards e kos skmmng the sapphre water
n an endess tran. saw that m neghbour
the despondent Torghut e was aso watchng
them. as he thnkng o the egend whch woud
make those brds the errng sous o a the ar
ones who ha e been thrown nto those waters or
ther naughtness and was he wshng that the
prett Turksh ades o to-da mght a be drowned
n sacks mmedate and ngsh su ragsts m-
ported to repace them
t adar Pasha as cmbed the broad whte
steps to the rawa staton he was once more besde
me n the crowd takng as there had been no
break n our con ersaton.
nd our regon ow benghted how
behnd the tmes t s t hampers us on a
occasons when we seek mpro ement. e need a
uther bad . The whoe s stem o our aw s
ant uated and obstruct e. ur go ernment s
chdsh and the scorn o urope. ou are good
enough to champon us sage but we are rotten
to the core degraded nshed
M sa ng wth a augh that t was |ust the same
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p
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1 84 T T T T M
wth ngand n the opnon o a good number o
m eow-countr men made hm more goom
and thnk pre ented hm rom sttng wth me
n the tran as he had rst ntended. t a e ents
he et me enter the rst coach aone where chancng
on some men knew ute orgot poor Torghut
e and hs despar unt arr ed n Msket
anum s garden was greeted b a group o
Turksh rends wth the n ur :
e what ad entures ha e ou had to-da
o one wated or an answer to the ueston
whch was a mere gbe at m habt o exatng
common ncdents. The ades went on wth
ther con ersaton nstant whe one o the men
n compan drew near to me. To hm mentoned
m despondent rend hs deep dsgust wth Turksh
women and conse uent despar o the whoe
countr .
M hearer aughed :
e must be n some scrape. take t that home
e the cares o matrmon and the rest o t
amount to much the same n e er countr o the
word. ome are unuck and the bame the
s stem whe others beng happ thnk t good.
Go to Pars or Pekn and magne that ou woud
nd the same d ergence o opnons n er much
the same proporton that ou nd t here.
e caed hs w e out rom the knot o ades
n urng : Do ou know Torghut e has had
a uarre wth hs w e or her reatons ate
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M P T D T 185
hch Torghut was o course the answer.
The dentt o m Torghut ha ng been estabshed
n her understandng she seemed to thnk t ke
that there had been troube but sad no more
than that the w e o the Torghut n ueston was
o her ac uantance a gr extreme we-brought-
up and educated but a tte proud as was but
natura or she came o a er good am . er
husband asked her to nd out there had been
a uarre ate and when protested that she
must not go to troube on m account asked
had ed to m age n the word wthout perce ng
that a woman s dearest |o was n researches nto
other women s busness. e assured me that the
charmng ad there besde us or gueess that she
ooked carred n her head the secret hstor o
e er Turksh am o an standng and was
awa s on the watch to add a chapter. The ad
who kept smng engmatca bade me ne er to
bee e a word he sad and ponted out wth
per ect |ustce o retort that occasona men s
curost urged women on to such research as
n the present case. he asked to know the reason
o our curost . The substance o the oung man s
tak wth me was then reported b her husband
whereupon she tod us a we wshed to know
ha ng mere hed the stor n reser e t she had
drawn out ours. ter hearng rom her that poor
Torghut s w e was proud had magned that
he mght ha e serous reason to be dscontented
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1 86 T T T T M
|udgng rom the matrmona experence o other
Turks o m ac uantance wth oung ades o
a er good am . ne rend a outh u pasha
o the od regme had been marred w n
b the daughter o a Grand er who made
e hate u to hm b her ars and |eaouses
treatng hm ke a ser ant n her house. s ee-
ngs towards her natura grew ndct e and
when the e outon came and her reatons ost
ther power to run hm he soon d orced her.
ome months a ter the d orce a bunde came or
hm b runner. t contaned a new-born bab
and a sheet o paper wth the words :
Ths s ours. Thank God am now ut
o ou.
Torghut had espoused a tgress o that breed
shoud ha e pted hm and understood hs
desperaton. ut hs case t appeared was er
d erent.
prett outh to st n |udgment on our
moras sad the ad our enghtener n tones
o rch amusement. s w e s e dent much
too good or hm but then t was a o e-match
so she has herse to bame. ome tme ago she
ound out that he was a gamber. e used to e
to her pretendng that t was hs busness at the
Mnstr whch made hm ate at nghts when a
the whe he was re uentng the ow haunts o
Pera. he scoded hm he promsed to amend.
Two nghts ago he ne er came at a. he made
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M P T D T 187
n ures n the mornng sent to tambou to
hs Mnstr went herse nto the town to seek
or tdngs but had no word o hm unt ast
e enng when he came home n a ptabe state.
he was er angr natura and ashamed or
hm. he threatened to sue or a d orce but n
the end orga e hm. o doubt the beng rated
b a woman pre ed upon hs man dgnt and
that s wh he spoke to ou so eeng aganst
us women and the state o Turke . dssoute
absurd oung man who has ne er thought on an
serous sub|ect udge o the aue o hs ews
on our poor countr
ome uropeans n onstantnope ma be heard
decarng that the Turks themse es despar o
Turke and admt that the are nshed beng
ute degenerate. To a such theorsts woud
commend the stor o poor Torghut e .
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PT
P G
The word o e-match as apped n the ore-
gong chapter to a Turksh marrage ma strke
the ngsh reader wth astonshment. ha e
aread mentoned how among ad anced rench-
educated Turks the crce o a woman s mae
ac uantance has been enarged be ond the bounds
o kndred and a nt . That beng so t oows
that a Turksh maden o to-da can sometmes
make a marrage o a ecton wthout transgressng
ether decenc or et uette. n m own crce
was wtness o a courtshp whch d ered tte
rom an ngsh woong between oung peope
we ac uanted wth each other. t ther
weddng the ceremon o the otuk and
un eng had natura no sgn cance. The
went through t aughng and repeated t when
con ersaton angushed as a |oke. Ther marrage
east as Msket anum put t was Gha et
aa ranga n the extreme Pranksh manner
and on the morrow brde and brdegroom started
or the era on ther hone moon.
ne o m rends a man b no means o the
188
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P G 189
modern schoo aowed hs daughter to contract
a marrage wth a outh o her own choosng whom
she had met n crcumstances he dd not appro e.
That sort o marrage had he tod me one ad-
antage or a parent n that the gr coud ne er
bame hm t turned out bad whereas n the
od- ashoned marrage b arrangement she
unhapp made ncessant cams upon hs purse
and n uence. Grs o a certan educaton nowa-
da s were makng t a pont o honour not to marr
men the dd not know and where the had no
mone or exceptona attractons were o course
e t watng. n hs opnon ounded on the
obser aton o a etme marrage as the resut o
outh u passon sedom ed to happness.
en the cose guarded Turksh maden w
genera manage to obtan a gmpse o her be-
trothed be ore the weddng more rare w
contr e a meetng and a tak wth hm. n the
rst case she arranges through some emae go-
between that the man sha wak n a certan spot
where she can see hm rom her attce at a certan
hour wearng a ower or a our she has sent to
hm. n the second the pace o meetng woud
n genera be some cemeter regarded as a knd o
sanctuar where a ad beng eed can wander
wthout other escort than a rend or woman
ser ant. o more romantc tr stng-pace coud
be magned than or nstance the great cemeter
o cutar a orest o od c press-trees hodng
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190 T T T T M
such deep shade that e er ob|ect appears strange
m sterous remote rom e as s the bottom o
the sea. The narrow headstones taer than a man
ncne ths wa and that wth the dsorder o a
natura undergrowth. ere and there a grander
mausoeum a cubc structure wth a dome rses
to ha the heght o the gnared tree-trunks here
and there are u-robed gures ttng sent
or seated n a group around some gra e. The m stc
gro e or so t rea seems ts gra en head-
stones ke the runc sgns o ost ant ut
extends or mes and coud concea a thousand
o ers whe ts goom and werdness mpart
|ust the atmosphere whch Turksh o ers aue
most n o e. ut the maden who w enture
so ar s a rart . Most grs nspect ther brde-
grooms rom a guarded dstance.
Msket anum once amused us wth a u
descrpton o the wa n whch prncesses choose
ther man. number o photographs o oung
men o staton are submtted to the ad who
oungng on a so a takes them one b one studes
and taks them o er wth her women. Perhaps
she sends them a awa as unattract e or too
ow o stature or e er Turksh damse n her
teens adores ta men and means to wed a gant
and sends or a resh batch. hen one attracts
her she procams the act and orders the orgna
to be produced and made to wak be ore her
attce then to rde on horseback then to run or
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P G 191
|ump. she dsappro es o hm n an posture
she re|ects hm and demands another. ometmes
the chosen s not n the st submtted but someone
she has seen b chance rom her carrage or ca ue.
n one case that know o he was marred and
the ather o two chdren but the prncess st
decared that she must ha e hm. e must mere
keep hs other w e and chdren n the background
he coud go and see them sometmes. The man
though much embarrassed had to do her w and n
the se ue as know was er happ the prncess
beng charmng to hs chdren and the other
w e.
To those who see n the rench manners o some
Turks the brth o a new soca order n sam
man o the od regous rues and ordnances
seem anachronsms. There s desre or ther re-
orm n ad anced crces. Poor Torghut s cr :
e need a uther has been uttered n m
hearng b more serous thnkers. t s cear
no ad antage to the Turks as Musms that ther
pra ers and a regous o ces shoud be n rabc.
Ths absurdt or such t woud ha e seemed
to the poste o sam the greatest protestant
that e er ed has ed to the appontment o
a speca order o pro cents ke a presthood the
thng the Prophet most abhorred on earth.
othng o the sort exsts n rab countres.
There s no regous reason wh a arge pro-
porton o the pra ers shoud not be sad n
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192 T T T T M
Turksh or wh the kho|a o to-da shoud not
return to hs true Musm status as a smpe person
earned n regon no reason whatsoe er sa e
expedenc . The demand or such re orm s st
so ar rom genera that the great ma|ort o
Turks coud be reed on urous to oppose the
sghtest change.
ccasona ha e heard progress e Turks
speak o the kho|as n a bod as a bar to progress.
Durng m sta n Turke con ersed wth man
kho|as ha ng a o e or the Mohammedan re-
gon and the character o ts pro essed students
and cannot sa that shoud ca them that.
one o the arous opnons that heard expressed
b them coud b an |udgment be pronounced
reactonar . The a ooked orward or exampe
to the reat e emancpaton o women upon samc
nes anaogous to those aread oowed wth
success b certan o the ussan Musms. The
better educaton o women the one and a re-
garded as among the countr s greatest needs.
one ma take t that the tte ads and pre|udces
o the ngsh cerg are compatbe wth toera-
ton then none o them was n the east ntoerant.
th the excepton o a ew potca thnkers
the were the on persons whom met who seemed
to me to st n |udgment upon new deas re|ectng
what was man est e or absurd. The were
ar rom beng shoud sa opposed to progress
uness t were to progress o a hurred -consdered
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P G 193
knd. The urged the need o crcumspecton and
much patence.
ut patence re ures tme and tme s not
aowed us a nonst sad once upon m takng
n ths stran. The uropean menace s mme-
date. The moment ther sck man ga e sgns o
a return to heath the doctors turned to butchers
swore to make an end o hm. The are on wat-
ng or agreement and a good excuse. Thus
threatened ha e we an tme to thnk Must
we not grasp the best pan that occurs to us and
orce t orward aganst a opponents
n truth or me a uropean to tak to Turks
thus threatened b a urope o patence and
deberaton was rdcuous. the same the
kho|as are ute rght n ther contenton. To
o end one gnorant regous pre|udce at ths
|uncture to proceed too ast though n the rght
drecton mght be to rob the peope o ther
stomach or the comng ght.
ou knew wth what resentment the ambas-
sadors o certan Powers oppose us e er tme we
am at serous re orm ou woud ha e no doubt
o the hostt o ther ntentons m rend
added.
had no doubt o that hostt whch seems to
be accepted outsde Turke as ntrnsc to the
stuaton o that -starred countr s e en
peaded b the dpomatca mnded n excuse
or ther wthhodng s mpath rom Turke

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194 T T T T M
n her str e or progress. t woud be to waste
that s mpath the argue Turke beng doomed
b secret sentence o the Powers. The turn ther
s mpath n some drecton where the see a ar
chance o ts meetng wth matera reward. uch
ews are common n the ugar sphere o potcs
but n the ream o etters the can cam no stand-
ng. ere t s st aw u to appaud the ghtng
hero to uphod the cause o |ustce though un-
popuar. ere we ma speak the truth aganst
dpomac : The state o Turke s more u o
hope to-da than e er n that countr s ormer
hstor more u o hope than s the state o an
uropean countr . ts hopeessness o whch we
hear so much s n the greed e es o urope
nowhere ese.
sam has been so wde and sententous
msrepresented e en b a secton o ts own
adherents that ee that am courtng aughter
when state : that t s no ess toerant than
hrstant 2 that t s not a oe to human
progress.
n m rst contenton ponderous tomes b
earned hrstan wrters as we as texts rom the
oran can be produced aganst me. ut the
oran s care u perused rom end to end and ts
arous texts on ths sub|ect care u coated the
pros and cons or toeraton at an rate o ews
and hrstans w be ound to baance. n
ke manner the pronouncements etwahs o
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P G 195
he khs-u- sam and earned |udges w be ound
now eanng towards the wdest toerance now
wearng the dark coour o extreme anatcsm
accordng and ths s the crux o the whoe ueston
as hrstendom attacked the Musms or kept
peace wth them. earned she kh expaned the
matter thus to me :
hrstan who o es Musms and respects
ther ath must be counted as a Musm b a
true bee ers e er where. e s n the wa
wth us bound on the same |ourne and to hod
aoo rom hm or out hm woud be sn. nd
he proceeded to decam two texts o crpture
one to the e ect that such a hrstan sha be
wecome to take part n Musm worshp the other
ths :
God s our ord and our ord unto us our
works and unto ou our works. o uarre
between us and ou or God w gather us both
n and unto m we sha return.
coud uote man nstances to show that the
sgn cance o these words has ne er been ost
sght o b good Musms whereas the Gospe
texts ther sheep ha e whch are not o ths
od e that s not aganst us s or us and so
orth makng as the do or toeraton ha e been
o erooked b hrstans. The hrstan who
a owed hates Musms or assas them s natura
to be treated as an enem . Thus t w be seen
that Mohammedan ntoerance o hrstant as
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196 T T T T M
we n theor as n practce s n response and
n drect proporton to the hrstan s hatred o
sam. ew w thnk den that the regon
o the Musm s more enghtened and progress e
n the abstract than that o the ma|ort o astern
hrstans whch brngs me to the second pont
o m contendng : that sam s not a oe to
human progress.
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PT
M D P G
The Mohammedan regon has been bamed or
trats o character whch are ound n a the
nat e nhabtants o warm cmates. the
hrstans n the hotter Musm countres do to-da
exce Mohammedans n energ t s owng to a
d erence o race and not o creed but persona
bee e the hrstan s ead n ths respect to be
unrea a mere a ar o buste and act . The
Musm s energes ha e up to now been spent
per orce on war and the routne o agrcuture
whereas the e orts o the hrstan who unt
the e outon was exempt rom mtar ser ce
ha e been turned to commerce and the peace u
arts o se -ad ancement. The Musm has or
ears known tte peace athough he ong ago ga e
up aggresson. t must aso be remembered that
the Musms o the Turksh mpre ha e been
much negected the attenton o the Go ernment
beng absorbed n e orts to ward o encroachments
o the Powers o urope whe the hrstan
popuaton has been nursed b mssonares and
protected b the en o s o those Powers. Takng
197
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198 T T T T M
a these acts nto account and aso the tremen-
dous ncrease o energ and ntat e notceabe
n the Turksh peope snce the e outon bee e
that the Musm popuaton g en peace and a ar
go ernment w pro e not superor to the
hrstan n commerca enterprse superor n
e er knd o honest work. The Turks as a whte
race ha e a natura precedence o er the man -
cooured races o the Musm word. The are
ana s members o the on unnte sect o
sam whch accepts man s reason as a gude be ore
tradton whereas the g ptans or exampe
are most he a s and hod the opposte opnon
b temperament t s certan rather than ree
choce. That the Turks are capabe o under-
standng urope more than are an other race
o Musms s deser ng o remembrance. The
whoe Musm ast s rsng and w go on rsng
more erce under hrstan than under Moham-
medan rue. progress e Turke must be
crushed as urope sa s then one da urope
w behod an rab mpre wth tte o the
toeraton and good temper o the Turk. Much
as o e the rabs and respect ther man rtues
recognse a d erence n ther mentat whch
makes t most desrabe rom urope s standpont
that the Turks shoud ong reman the eaders
o the Musm word. as there s no head to
urope on mbs and be so to what or whom
can one appea
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M D P G 199
Much has been made o the common sa ngs
smet dr t s ate smetm dr
t s m ot n e and so on to demonstrate the
atasm o the Turk. Ths atasm s ascrbed
to hs regon rather hast . That e er bod s
ate s preordaned o God the Musm certan
bee es e so do man hrstans. ut
as the whoe ord s the matera o each man s
ate the predestned course o whch cannot be
known b an t the Da o udgment ths
bee woud seem to precude energetc acton and
ntat e no more than does the hrstan doctrne
o se -sacr ce. There s know a text n the
oran :
The ate o each s ted about hs neck and no-one aden
ma bear another s oad
whch has been taken b some crtcs to mp
the opposte o ear e one another s burdens.
n ts context t does nothng o the knd re-
errng e dent to a man s reaton to hs works
at the ast udgment whe passages whch
preach the brotherhood o a bee ers the need o
chart and mutua hep abound n the oran.
n act as ha e sad aread here and there the
angs genera charged to sam are ether
ncdenta to the cmate n whch Musms e
or ese and bee e more tru the resut o ong
sub|ecton to a despotsm whch dscouraged a
endea our o a peace u knd. The genune
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200 T T T T M
Turks are not a a race as wtness the amount
o corn exported e er ear rom adar Pasha
the produce o those pro nces o nato a o whch
the rura popuaton s amost entre Turksh.
The Turksh peasant s exceedng ndustrous and
has gone on workng dogged under condtons
whch woud ha e broken the heart o an other
agrcuturst. ut the sghtest de aton or ex-
curson rom the mere routne o work the east
dspa o enterprse on hs part was punshed b
ncreased taxaton and so routne beng hs soe
re uge o phosoph he cung to t wth smet
and due prase to ah. ow at ast he s eman-
cpated he has ea e to be a man the arena o
hs ate whch man had narrowed s now once more
made wordwde as t came rom God. n ths the
Turks behod the restoraton o sam.
The work s but begun. The greatest task o
the re ormers next to the reorgansaton o the
pubc schoos s the re a o the oca go ern-
ments through whch aone the poorer Musms
can be uck rased to the poston o responsbe
ree ct ens the rch compeed to hep them and
themse es. The road whch ran past Msket
anum s garden gate beneath an a enue o ne
acacas was u o mounds and deep depressons
beng ute unmade. t was the soe wa o
approach to thrt kosks nhabted b peope o
arge means who had a been grumbng o er the
state o the road companng o the Go ernment
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M D P G 201
or more than twent ears. hen suggested
that the shoud take the work n hand themse es
and do t proper the ooked aghast and sad
that t was not ther busness. t s true that
n the da s o bdu amd the coud not ha e
done t or ther acton woud ha e made a nose
and mght ha e been resented as a persona a ront
b some hgh unctonar whose ttuar concern
was roads. ut now when the Go ernment s
anxous or mpro ement and ha ng more than
t can do woud wecome hep ther horror at the
thought was pure udcrous n men who taked
so much o progress and the aue o ntat e.
gan t s the custom o the househoder to
take a rubbsh to hs boundar wa and cast t
orth on to some road or pubc ootpath. ch
men who keep a ot o gardeners obser e ths
custom. he ther gardens are kept beaut u
neat wthn the outer wa s an o ence to passers-
b . esponsbt ends there. The rubbsh
stnks the owner o the garden wakng n hs
ar doman curses the Go ernment or aowng
such a nusance to reman where he can sme t.
n c sed countres he remarks the send
men da to remo e a re use. n our road
Msket anum was thnk the on househoder
who e er made her men go out be ond her garden
gate wth brooms or sho es who e er had a bad
hoe n the road ed up or proposed co-operaton
o the neghbours or the road s mpro ement.
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202 T T T T M
hen ad exampes such as these be ore
m nonst ad ser he cred out n some m-
patence : The concern rch peope. e ha e
no hope n the rch we know them the are
useess. ut the poor are er d erent. mong
them ou w nd both energ and pubc sprt
unde eoped t s true as et but e dent.
had aso some rends among the poor and agreed
wth hm as to ther gour and ther greater poss-
btes whe not desparng o the rch as he dd.
The rch though st de|ected b the a o bdu
amd woud pro e o ser ce et sure when
once the new regme appeaed to them as t coud
on do b a re a o the oca go ernments
through whch the poor woud aso gan the stmuus
the needed a sense o beng somethng n the
scheme o thngs. t present the poor Musms
st retan the eeng that outsde the crce o ther
own mmedate rends outsde ther age
there s constant trcker and ear o ou oppres-
son. The tran w er ke start an hour too
soon the steamer has a stupd purpose to go o
wthout them ther eow-men are mnded to
rustrate ther e er am. Ther notons o the
outer word are ague hoste as the resut o
past experence o n|ustce rom whch a man s
own weght or nmbeness aone coud sa e hm.
M w e was terr ed one da at adar Pasha b
the rush o the crowd to get on board the steamer
or tambou. oosh she turned round to
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M D P G 203
remonstrate ha wa up the gangwa and was
er near pushed nto the water b an enormous
sort o mattress ad ancng on a porter s egs. The
bearer o the mattress seeng nothng but hs eet
marched straght ahead mpersona as uggernaut.
hen we recounted the ad enture a terwards at
Msket anum s a Turksh ad present murmured
gra e :
congratuate ou upon our escape Madame
or had ou aen n the water t s hgh probabe
that no one woud ha e mo ed a hand to sa e
ou.
he tod a stor o her persona knowedge o
three women beng drowned wthn reach o a
crowd o boats and boatmen. reped wth
one o mne about a ran rab who was wakng
n the countr wth a rend o hs when that
rend stepped abrupt nto a dsused we or
cstern such as s o ten met wth n the countr
round erusaem. The rab ne er thought o
runnng to brng hep ne er paused to ascertan
whether hs rend et ed ne er e en seemed to
ee a thr o horror but smp rased hs e es
to ea en wth the unera oraton : a haua wa
a uwwata a b ah a a 1 a m There
s no power nor mght sa e n God the gh the
Tremendous and tran u proceeded on hs wa .
et knew hm or an exceent knd-hearted man.
t was on that he was resgned to an thng whch
mght be a n ths strange word. n the mdst
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204 T T T T M
o e we are n death was hs soe comment
when he tod o the occurrence. e accepted
acts as the appeared to hm unchangeabe
comng as he thought drect rom the hand o
God.
The Turksh ad aughed at m anecdote
but sad : The Turks are d erent. ur peope
are not ute so apathetc as our rab. The ha e
been dscouraged n the past rom rescue o the
drownng b dread o nter erng n some great
man s game. tores o ms ortune conse uent upon
such rescue are st tod among them. Ther n-
d erence thnk s but a egac o od unhapp
da s. nd et me te ou that the boatmen who
ooked on whe the three grs o whom spoke
were drownng near the andng-stage were most
o them not Turks at a but hrstans.
he tod us then o gaant rescues done b
Turks. ne man an o cer happened to be on
board a steamboat ea ng Pasha aghcheh on the
osphorus when a man e o erboard. The o cer
unsung hs sword upon the nstant and was n the
act o tearng o hs tunc when hs ser ant sprang
on hm and beowed or assstance supposng hs
poor master had gone mad. The o cer caed hm
a oo and ung hm o bddng hm make the
captan stop the boat. t once wth the command
whch carred expanaton wth t the soder rom
a hndrance became ser ceabe. e caused the
steamer to put back and was standng read wth
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M D P G 205
a rope to hep hs master when the atter wth hs
burden swam n reach.
ha e pcked ths stor out rom others man
o them more dramatc because t seems to me to
be a parabe o sub|ect Turke so ong sub|ect
that t does not et know how to mo e n reedom.
t present t st gapes upon the strange processon
o e ents not understandng. dmt the poor
Turks to the secret teach them the sense o what
s gong on abo e a g e them each some de-
nte sma work to do and the w show an energ
a handness and a de oton to ama e the crtc who
had |udged them n ther ro en state.
The pre|udce aganst the Musm s know
deep-rooted n the hrstan mnd. ut et the
reader ask hmse a ter a gance at the deas
the hopes and eke the d cutes o progress e
Turke whether such a peope though Moham-
medan does not deser e the toeraton o the
c sed. t s Turke s excuson rom that magc
crce whch ncudes such shnng ghts as ussa
and the akan tates her not beng hrstan
smp whch s hed to |ust her persecuton
and a knds o brgandage at her expense. t
w no doubt be hed to |ust the partton o
her satc terrtor aread as hear arranged or
b the Powers and w g e the character o a
crusade to et another crue massacre.
The det behnd the Powers o urope beng
as t s not God but Mammon one must protest
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2o6 T T T T M
at east aganst the draggng n o hrstant
as a mere b nd to the true nature o the deed n
contempaton. Ths s nothng but a crme aganst
humant . uch crmes n hstor ne er ack ther
emess.
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PT

ne mornng n u e t our age b the
mornng tran whch go ernment o cas usua
took to go to town and chancng on a rend and
neghbour taked to hm ncessant unt we
parted at the rdge. s a rue we dsagreed pro-
ound and were read to abuse each other n
a corda wa but that mornng he endorsed each
word sad and showed a brother a ecton n
hs manner towards me. e had heard that we
were ea ng Turke on the morrow to return to
ngand and expressed deep sorrow upon that
account. mong a number o most bare- aced
compments addressed to me he made the rather
strange remark that m w e possessed a musca
and peasant oce and not a harsh one ke the
other ngsh ades who rom tme to tme had come
to ook at Turksh women. er manner was not
domneerng and she dd not ask a ot o uestons.
The ades were ute sad about her gong. e too
was sad to thnk o partng wth so tough and staunch
an ad ersar as m se . e shoud he hoped re-
turn and make our home wth Turks or good.
07
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2o8 T T T T M
h are ou comng nto town ths mornng
he asked wth some appearance o soctude. Pre-
parator to so ong a |ourne ou shoud ha e
sta ed at home and rested n the house and garden.
tod hm was gong to tambou n order to
keep an appontment whch a rend had knd
made or me to see the Mnster o the nteror
at ee en o cock.
nd what are ou gong to sa to s x-
ceenc he demanded n the ronca tone whch
beras n arab used when mentonng a ght
o nonsm.
was gong rst o a to sa good-b e but
the rend who had arranged the nter ew nssted
on m makng known the ews whch had ormed
about re orms n Turke whch happened b good
uck to be hs own.
nd what are the he n ured. e
ha e argued up and down but ha e ne er heard
them.
The state o Turke |udgng rom the regon
o the capta and such o the pro nces as
knew ntmate appeared to me extraordnar
hope u on Turks had not such arge deas.
The Turks were proud. Ther prde when t
rang true as or exampe n resstance to ther
oregn enemes was admrabe but n the
matters o nterna go ernment mpro ements
and re orms t sometmes wore the ook o megao-
mana a dsease. The conce ed huge pro|ects.
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209
grat ng to ther prde as a great naton orgettng
so t struck me that those pro|ects must be
orced on the acceptance o some mons o un-
known and unregarded nd duas who mght
ob|ect to schemes o whch the dd not under-
stand one word or see the am. The peope smp
gaped and wondered the coud not coaborate.
The begnnng o a true re orm n m opnon
must be n a sma dstrct n a sma wa n
hundreds o such dstrcts smutaneous
possbe not n one. ne tte dstrct work-
ng or mpro ement the ages and towns
per ormng each ts part and e er man aware o
what the purpose was woud n the present state
o eeng o the Turksh peope set others gong.
t woud be worth a the schemes o a the
Mnstres or t woud rouse enthusasm n the
popuace whch theoretc schemes dd not.
ute agree wth ou he answered serous .
m se ha e o ten thought what grand
resuts coud be obtaned b an one who woud
de ote hs whoe attenton to a tte dstrct
or ten ears. Man o us ha e ong reased
the truth o what ou sa . er go ernor o a
pro nce who has worked upon those nes has
met success. The troube htherto has been the
ack o se uence o a genera scheme. The suc-
cessor o a great re ormer has et thngs reapse.
The schemes whch ou derde ha e ths ad antage :
that the do make progress aw and do ensure a
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210 T T T T M
measure o consstenc at east n the deas and
ams o go ernment. Do ou know wh man
o us m se or nstance seeng what ou
see ha e not gone down nto some pro nce and
mpro ed t mp because the ga e us no
securt . upposng that e t the capta
knew or certan that the moment that m back
was turned m enemes woud work up some
ntrgue aganst me. ot on shoud ose what
n uence had possessed at court but shoud ere
ong be superseded n m go ernment m work
destro ed. Though thngs are better now the
go ernment s ar rom setted and a change o
go ernment woud mean a man s remo a wthout
recompense rom the pro nce he had |ust begun
to stud and to rase. There s another reason
n the great reuctance o our women to endure
the hardshps and the depr atons o pro nca
e. uch work as ou suggest woud ha e to
be conducted wthout nterrupton or at east
ten ears. M w e w not go wth me
there ore g e up the pro|ect sooner than assume
the cares o urther matrmon . G e the
Mnster our ews b a means t ma do
some good. e has both power and energ .
M companon uttered the ast sentence wth an
ar o generost as who woud sa : To g e the
De hs due
ke e er bod ese who comes to town rom
countr paces where the roads are deep n dust
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211
or mud accordng to the season had m boots
ceaned nstant on m arr a at the rdge.
then put up m paraso the sun was ba ng
and sauntered o er to tambou watchng the str
o shppng on the Goden orn the coours o
the passng crowd ute sad to thnk that was
strong there or the ast tme unt came nto
the uarter o the Turksh bookseers where
spent the perod o watng happ though awa s
wth the eeng o the ast tme.
Punctua at ee en o cock passed between
the sentres at the gate o the ubme Porte and
made m wa to the Mnstr o the nteror.
The ubme Porte hat knd o son do the
words e oke or peope who ha e ne er seen the
modern budng. The reat s a ong wa wth
ron rangs up abo e t and two gates admttng
to a ard be ore a ong and o t structure u
o wndows ke a barracks the centra part whereo
s now a re-staned run wth grass growng n
the ard be ore t and wthn. n the two wngs
at one end o ths backened desoaton s the
Grand erate at the other the oregn ce
the nteror and other Mnstres. The portons
whch reman n use are so extens e and o er so
bewderng a ab rnth o stars and corrdors
that the humbe sutor gasps to thnk o what the
ntrcaces o the budng must ha e been be ore
the re destro ed two-thrds o t. t was peasant
rememberng m eengs o e months be ore
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212 T T T T M
soon a ter m arr a n onstantnope when
had stra ed among those corrdors ha ng an
appontment but er near hopeess o drecton
through m ack o Turksh to nd m se at ease
n tak wth guards and ushers m uestons
understood and prompt answered. n one
pre ous occason o m gong there on emergng
rom a Mnster s recepton room had taken the
wrong turnng and ha ng orgotten the Turksh
word or out o doors dshar a had to per orm
the pantomme o d ng rom an upper wndow
n order to expan m predcament to a sma crowd
o soders who on gaped at words o rabc
rench German and taan. n ths occason
was shown at once nto the ante-chamber o the
Mnster where the secretar a ter shakng hands
conducted me at once nto the presence o the
Mnster hmse .
The ew rom the ta wndows o hs saon
the od paace wth ts uant kosks and gardens
sopng to the sea and then the osphorus as
bue as corn owers wth a the pageant o ts
shppng wndng among the man -cooured towns
and hs has not ts e ua magne n the
word. Taa at e asked what had to sa
and ha ng heard me knd to an end remarked :
e ha e a that n mnd. emember that
the Powers b askng or re orms at a ponts
smutaneous and nstant obge us to produce
those bg schemes ou dske. ut a the whe
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213
good work s gong on though e er bod must
admt that t s under d cutes.
e then tod me that the Turksh arm was
ad ancng to the nos-Mda ne no urther and
a ter some genera con ersaton on the sub|ect o
ugara s pght took m ea e.
then went on to ca upon another Mnster
whose o ce was across the road and up some steps.
There was kept watng ha an hour ute un-
ntentona as t a terwards transpred. or
on m beng shown at ast nto the great man s
room he started up and cred :
hat s t ou ow e er ong then ha e
kept ou watng
M card was n hs hand but t had carred
nothng to hs understandng because though we
had met and taked a do en tmes he had ne er
had an nkng o m name be ond the act that
t began wth somethng ke Mahmud. hen
sad that had |ust heard that the arm was
ad ancng to the nos-Mda ne he ga e a shrug
and hnted that the arm once n moton woud
not eas be stopped at an rate b orders rom
tambou.
n reachng home ound that Msket anum
had rece ed a st whch had great agtated
her.
e antne genteman who knew her on
sght as a uropean beng n the neghbourhood
had caed upon her. e was one o man who
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214 T T T T M
had ed the countr n ctober earng massacre
and had on ate summoned courage to return.
e asked her whether she had not been great
rghtened n the bad da s o the war.
rghtened what she asked.
the anatcsm o the Turks. course t
was we known that e er one had gone awa who
coud contr e to do so. ow had she endured
the stran o da terror hat had she done
Msket anum then n ormed hm pan that
she o ed the Turks and hated ther traducers.
hat had she done he had nursed the wounded
had worked or the poor -cad star ng soders
she had done her best to com ort the poor anxous
women. nd she had met wth kndness courtes
and touchng grattude. There had ne er been
the sghtest danger there was no anatcsm.
hat ou ne er mean to sa ou re a pro-
Turk cred the e antne who as a rtsh
sub|ect spoke ngsh awa s n hs prde o race.
Msket anum asked hm whether n a the ears
that he had ed n Turke he had e er su ered
an thng rom an Turk. e coud not sa he
had. hat then had he been so a rad o that he
ran awa The stor expaned that to hs
thnkng the Turks were on toerant o us
uropeans through ear o our protectng go ern-
ments. hen a urope e on them t had
seemed to hm a certant that the woud
massacre. Msket anum s ndgnaton made her
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215
amost speechess. n the end remember
rght she re erred to me an ngshman then
sta ng n her house who he heard hm takng
thus about the Turks woud ha e hs bood or
somethng o that knd upon whch aw u
ntmaton he departed as Msket anum tod us
ater ke a man who does not know the earth
rom sk . ut the shock o meetng such a person
made her downrght .
owe er n the mornng she appeared herse
agan and nothng woud dssuade her rom escort-
ng us on board our steamer.
s we e t the house to wak up to the rawa -
staton our uggage ha ng gone be ore a hea
spash o water cose behnd me made me |ump.
Turnng saw the Greek mad grnnng hodng
upsde down an empt |ug. |acuatons o n
sh ah came rom the Turksh ades ookng
on. t s to make ou both come back sad
Msket anum. water s poured out between
ou and the house ou ea e ou are bound to
return to t sooner or ater. t s we-known.
The Turksh ades went no urther than the
garden gate where ong arewes were sad and
then we two wth Msket anum habted as
uropeans wandered out nto the word.
Two hours be ore the sun set we were standng
on the deck o a great steamer hgh abo e the
ua o Ghaata. e had |ust sad good-b e to
the ast o our rends a Turksh outh who had
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26 T T T T M
had the news o our departure on that same
mornng n a etter rom hs sster and on the news
had rdden rom hs arm n the nteror to e kos
on the osphorus where he coud get a steamer
arr ng on |ust n tme at the ast mnute a ter
our other rends had e t the shp. e was now
standng wth them n the crowd beow wa ng
hs handkerche . tug at bow and stern was
pung out the great shp broadsde on nto the
open strat. ow amost mperceptb the
ua receded. The crowd ped up on t became
a mst the oe s o arewes no onger audbe
on the utter o the handkerche s coud be ds-
tngushed. That aso anshed and the ct
camed our e es. The tugs cast o the steamer
throbbed to e. The gorous sta o the Goden
orn the od paace and the ghthouse the
Mos ue o utan hmed spped awa to be
restored to us ar out at sea n one ast panorama
wth the hs o sa. e sat on deck and watched
t t the sun sank.
T D
T D - T D G
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14 D
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