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Textile Research Journal Article

Regressional Estimation of Ring Cotton Yarn Properties from


HVI Fiber Properties

Mustafa E. Üreyen1 and Hüseyin Kadoglu2


Abstract The main aim of the present study Textile Engineering Department, Ege University, 35100
was to predict the most important yarn quality Izmir, Turkey
characteristics derived from cotton fiber proper-
ties that were measured by means of an HVI sys-
tem. With this aim 15 different cotton blends
were selected from different spinning mills in Tur-
key. The cotton fibers were processed in the short
staple spinning line at Ege University Textile and
Apparel Research–Application Center and were
spun into ring yarns (20s, 25s, 30s and 35s). Each
count was spun at three different coefficients of
twist (αe 3.8, αe 4.2 and αe 4.6). Linear multiple
regression methods were used for the estimation
of yarn quality characteristics. Yarn count, twist
and roving properties all had considerable effects
on the yarn properties and therefore these param-
eters were also selected as predictors. After the
goodness of fit statistics very large R2 (coefficient
of multiple determination) and adjusted R2 values
were observed. Furthermore, analysis of variance
tables showed that our equations were significant
at the α = 0.01 significance level.

Key words cotton yarn, HVI, cotton fiber, ring


spinning, regression analysis, yarn quality estimation

The physical characteristics of a fiber determine its process- The empirical and statistical approach to establishing a
ing behavior, production efficiency and finally yarn and fab- relationship between fiber and yarn quality characteristics
ric quality. Therefore, predicting the quality characteristics has been the most popular method during the second half
of yarns, such as the tensile properties from the raw mate- of the twentieth century. Fast and accurate measurement
rial properties, was the main purpose of many studies in the of fiber properties by means of high volume instruments
last century. In addition to raw material processing condi- (HVI) and more powerful computers are the two main rea-
tions, preparation stages, machine parameters and the sons for this tendency. With this method, important fiber
spinning method also have considerable effects on the yarn and yarn properties can be measured for a range of sam-
properties. Generally two approaches were used in these ples and by using these results empirical relationships have
studies for predicting yarn quality from fiber and yarn char- been established by means of statistical analysis. One of the
acteristics:

• an empirical and statistical approach; and 1


E-mail: mustafa.erdem.ureyen@ege.edu.tr
• a theoretical or analytical approach.1 2
Corresponding author: e-mail: hkadoglu@textil.ege.edu.tr

Textile Research Journal Vol 76(5): 360–366 DOI: 10.1177/0040517506062262 www.trj.sagepub.com © 2006 SAGE Publications
Figures 1–4 appear in color online: http://trj.sagepub.com
Regressional Estimation of Ring Cotton Yarn Properties from HVI Fiber Properties M. E. Üreyen and H. Kadoglu 361 TRJ

most common statistical approaches is the multiple regres- [17]. However, prediction models dealing with the break-
sion method (e.g. linear, log–log, etc.). Such an approach is ing elongation of cotton yarns are few in number. Mathe-
used to investigate the interdependence of the different matical models have been proposed by Aggarwal [18, 19],
fiber properties and to estimate the relative contribution of Frydrych [11], and Zurek et al. [20]. Statistical models have
each fiber property to the overall yarn properties. Several been developed by Hunter [3] and ANN models produced
researchers [1–5] have established various regression equa- by Majumdar [4].
tions using this method. Unevenness is a very important factor for the yarn and
The theoretical approach is based on physical and mechan- fabric quality. Cross-sectional fiber variation is the basic
ical principles. These models usually yield good information reason for unevenness. In addition to machine parameters,
about interactions between different fiber properties and spinning method, yarn count and some fiber parameters have
yarn characteristics. However, practical applications are decisive influence on the unevenness of the yarn. Hunter
almost impossible because of the complexities of the mod- [3] and Ethridge et al. [2] have developed some models to
els. They are usually based on certain assumptions and their determine yarn irregularity by using fiber parameters.
success is determined by the feasibility of these assump- Hairiness, another measurable yarn characteristic, is usu-
tions [4, 6]. ally an undesirable property. Acceptable measuring devices
In recent years some researchers [2, 4, 7–9] have shown for the determination of hairiness, such as the Uster Tester
an interest in the use of artificial neural networks (ANN) and Zweigle Hairiness Tester are relatively recent and
to predict yarn characteristics. This analytical system is also therefore fewer research articles have been published on
useful for discovering relationships between variables [9]. the estimation of hairiness by using fiber parameters.
Chattopadhyay and Guha [10] have reviewed textile appli- In this study, we developed statistical models to esti-
cations of artificial neural networks in detail. mate ring yarn tensile properties, unevenness and hairiness
The tensile properties of a spun yarn have always been values by using multiple linear regressions. In addition to
very important in determining the quality of the yarn, since HVI fiber properties, we also used roving properties, yarn
they directly affect the winding and knitting efficiency as count, and yarn twist.
well as warp and weft breakages during weaving. It is, there-
fore, important to establish which fiber and yarn parame-
ters influence the yarn tensile properties and if possible, to
derive functional relationship between them. So far, Experimental
numerous mathematical and empirical models have been
established for the estimation of single yarn tenacity [3, 5, In this work, a total of fifteen different cotton samples were
11–13] and count strength product (CSP) [1, 3, 14, 15] using collected in roving form from various spinning mills. The
fiber properties and some yarn parameters. spinning operations can affect the fiber properties in differ-
Hearle [16] reviewed various mathematical and empiri- ent ways, depending on the machinery line and adjustments,
cal studies concerning yarn strength, which were published etc. For the elimination of these effects, fiber properties
between 1926 and 1965. Hunter [6] reported on more than were measured from finisher drawing slivers by using the
200 published papers about the prediction of yarn quality Uster HVI testing system. Table 1 shows the fiber proper-
parameters, particularly tensile properties, up to 2004. ties measured by HVI.
Another important yarn parameter is breaking elonga- All samples were spun into yams on ring spinning machine
tion. It influences the performance of spun yarns during (Rieter Model G30) at a yarn count of Ne 20 (29.53 tex),
winding, warping, and weaving. Yarn elongation is chiefly Ne 25 (23.63 tex), Ne 30 (19.69 tex), and Ne 35 (16.88 tex).
influenced by fiber properties, yarn twist, and yarn count Each yarn count was spun at three different twist multipli-

Table 1 Main fiber properties of the tested samples.


Sample no.
Property
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Fineness (microner) 4.7 4.0 4.3 4.8 4.1 4.7 4.2 3.9 4.5 4.9 4.9 4.3 4.9 4.5 4.5
Strength (g/tex) 31.6 50.6 33.2 32.0 34.2 33.7 47.8 30.3 33.8 34.3 31.7 33.7 33.6 38.8 33.1
Length (UHML) 30.30 32.60 28.55 29.35 27.70 29.95 35.10 29.90 29.25 29.50 27.60 29.45 29.90 30.55 27.45
Uniformity (%) 86.6 86.8 86.5 85.9 83.5 86.9 90.8 84.8 85.5 86.2 83.4 86.2 87.4 87.7 82.4
SFI (%) 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 6.7 3.5 3.5 4.1 3.6 3.5 6.8 3.5 3.5 3.5 8.1
Elongation (%) 6.1 7.4 6.8 6.2 5.8 6.4 7.7 6.8 6.7 6.6 5.6 6.7 6.4 7.6 5.7
Reflectance (Rd) 82.2 77.7 79.9 81.9 78.2 82.4 80.6 68.1 80.9 81.8 80.2 80.9 82.9 81.4 77.8
Yellowness (+b) 9.4 9.2 8.9 8.9 9.8 9.3 9.4 11.0 9.4 9.0 9.1 9.5 9.1 9.4 8.9
TRJ 362 Textile Research Journal 76(5)

Table 2 Main properties of rovings.


Sample no.
Property
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Roving cnt. (Ne) 1.09 1.08 0.66 0.93 1.22 1.22 1.11 0.89 1.05 1.00 1.01 1.02 1.00 0.90 1.00
Um (%) 4.11 4.95 3.23 4.00 4.68 3.90 5.24 5.35 4.90 4.42 3.91 5.72 5.06 3.61 4.98
CVm (%) 5.06 6.29 4.06 5.07 5.92 4.91 6.69 6.77 6.16 5.56 4.93 7.24 6.42 4.56 6.29
CVm (1m) (%) 2.96 2.82 2.17 2.48 3.01 1.96 4.06 3.04 2.31 1.61 2.68 2.82 4.05 1.46 2.02

ers (αe 3.8, αe 4.2, αe 4.6). A total of 180 spinning trials were Results and Discussion
done. The appropriate drafting ratios were adjusted on the
ring spinning machine for each sample. Other spinning
conditions were kept constant. Orbit rings (42 mm diame-
Influence of Fiber Properties on Yarn
ter) and travellers (suitable weights were selected for each Tenacity
yarn count) were used. For each yarn sample ten cops were As might be expected, a high positive correlation was
produced and tested. found between fiber and yarn strength (0.905). After
The tensile properties of the yarns were evaluated on an regression analysis it was seen that fiber strength was the
Uster Tensorapid tensile testing machine. Unevenness and most important parameter for yarn tenacity. Fiber elonga-
hairiness tests were performed on an Uster Tester 3. tion, fiber length (UHML), uniformity index, fiber fine-
Rovings were tested on the Uster Tester 3. The meas- ness, yarn count, yarn twist, roving count and unevenness
urements of the main properties are shown in Table 2. of roving are other parameters that can have a significant
The multiple regression method has the advantage influence on yarn tenacity. Table 3 shows the regression
of simplicity in describing the quantitative relationship coefficients of variables, the t-values and significance level
between textile material properties. Therefore this method of each variable. The estimated coefficients of variables
was selected for establishing the relationships between indicate the direction of influence. As the strength of a
fiber and yarn properties. At the beginning the types of yarn depends on the weakest place, an increase in irregu-
relationship between selected properties (independent larity should lead to a lower strength [16]. Therefore any
variables) and yarn properties (dependent variable) were unevenness of the rovings has a negative effect on the yarn
checked individually. The statistical tests indicated that tenacity. Roving count determines the draft on the ring
there was a nearly linear relationship between fiber prop- spinning machine. Our model shows that the drafting ratio
erties and yarn properties. Therefore a linear multiple on the spinning machine has a positive influence on tenac-
regression analysis method was chosen for our study in ity, but it should be noted that in our study the drafting
order to establish a quantitative relationship of yarn prop- ratio ranged from 18.80 to 54.20. We found a negative
erties with respect to fiber properties, roving properties, effect between fiber elongation and yarn tenacity. A step-
yarn count, and yarn twist. Forward stepwise (for estima- wise method was used for the regression analysis. The sig-
tion of tenacity, unevenness and hairiness) and backward nificance values obtained were based on fitting a single
elimination (for estimation of elongation) procedures model and in this situation the significance values can
were selected for the linear regression analysis. Statistical sometimes be invalid when a stepwise method is used. Fur-
analyses were performed using the SPSS 11.0.1 and Min- thermore, autocorrelation between fiber properties is
itab 11.12 programs. another basic problem for linear regression analysis. How-

Table 3 Regression coefficients, t-values and significance level of t-values of our linear regression model for yarn tenacity.
Independent variables
Twist co. Yarn cnt. Roving Roving cnt.
(Constant) Strength Elongation Uniformity UHML Mic.
(αe) (Ne) CVm % (Ne)
b* –19.883 0.701 1.880 –3.504 0.287 –0.089 –0.687 0.556 –2.639 –1.145
t –3.632 29.900 10.749 –12.527 2.741 –8.063 –7.559 4.611 –3.981 –3.853
Sig. 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.007 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
*Partial regression coefficient.
Regressional Estimation of Ring Cotton Yarn Properties from HVI Fiber Properties M. E. Üreyen and H. Kadoglu 363 TRJ

Figure 1 Experimental and predicted values of yarn Figure 2 Experimental and predicted values of yarn
tenacity. elongation.

ever, Ethridge and Zhu [2], Hunter [3], Ramey [5] and roving count (i.e. draft ratio on the ring spinning machine).
some other researchers have also found a similar negative The elongation increased with higher twist and decreased
trend. with finer rovings. Coarser yarns have more elongation
The model’s coefficient of multiple determination R2 than finer yarns. Among fiber properties fiber elongation
(= 0.954), adjusted R2 (= 0.952) and standard error of and fiber fineness have more influence on the yarn elonga-
estimate (= 0.838) show that the predictive power of the tion and both parameters had a negative effect. Other
model is very high. important fiber parameters are reflectance, fiber strength,
Figure 1 show the scatter plot of predicted values versus short fiber index and length, respectively. Table 4 shows the
experimental values and regression line of our model. Due linear regression analysis results. We had worse R2 (0.720),
to extremely high strength values of the second and sev- and adjusted R2 (0.705) values in comparison with other
enth cotton samples in comparison with the values of the yarn properties. The analysis shows that a lot of other fac-
other samples, there are two clusters in the figure. tors have effects on yarn elongation in addition to the fiber
parameters, yarn count and twist. The standard error of
estimates value for our model was 0.454. Figure 2 shows
Influence of Fiber Properties on Yarn the wide spread of values around the regression line.
Elongation The presence of nonlinearity between the independent
The backward elimination method was used for the predic- variables and the dependent variables reduces the success
tion of elongation. According to our model, the breaking of a linear regression model. Our statistical curve estima-
elongation is highly influenced by yarn count, twist and tion analysis showed that the relationship between fiber

Table 4 Regression coefficients, t-values and significance level of t-values of our linear regression model for yarn
elongation.
Independent variables
(Constant) Mic. Strength UHML SFI Elongation Rd Yarn cnt. (Ne) tpi Roving cnt. (Ne)
b* 10.237 –1.119 0.051 0.132 –0.142 –0.948 0.067 –0.142 0.136 –2.819
t 5.421 –5.296 3.269 2.731 –3.008 –5.973 3.596 –16.041 7.168 –7.875
Sig. 0.000 0.000 0.001 0.007 0.003 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
*Partial regression coefficient.
TRJ 364 Textile Research Journal 76(5)

Table 5 Regression coefficients, t-values and significance level of variables of our linear regression model for yarn
unevenness.
Independent variables
Yarn cnt. Roving Roving
(Constant) Strength Rd Elongation Uniformity +b Mic. SFI
(Ne) CVm% cnt. (Ne)
b* 110.491 0.204 –0.669 0.989 –0.482 5.485 –0.513 –4.504 9.164 –1.049 0.170
t 20.808 29.942 –23.972 17.710 –11.076 22.462 –9.100 –13.817 11.627 –4.132 3.119
Sig. 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.002
*Partial regression coefficient.

properties and yarn elongation was not very linear and so


the prediction power of our regression model was not very
high.
Some other studies [2–5, 21] have shown that there is a
contrary relationship between fiber strength and fiber
elongation. One possible explanation of the negative sign
for fiber elongation, similar to the prediction of yarn tenac-
ity, is that autocorrelation (between fiber strength and
fiber elongation) could cause instability in the estimation
coefficients.
The positioning of fibers in the yarn cross-section, grip-
ping of fibers by other neighboring fibers, and slippage of
fibers during yarn rupture are all decisive factors for both
tenacity and elongation of yarns. These factors increase the
non-linear impacts of the fiber properties on yarn tensile
properties. Therefore it is thought that further investiga-
tions are needed to provide better explanations of the
effects of fiber strength and fiber elongation on yarn ten- Figure 3 Experimental and predicted values of yarn une-
sile properties. venness.

Influence of Fiber Properties on Yarn


Unevenness Influence of Fiber Properties on Yarn
Evenness is one of the most important properties. Our
Hairiness
analyses show that yarn unevenness is mainly affected by One of the basic conditions of linear regression is that the
yarn count and roving unevenness. Among fiber proper- relationship between the dependent variable and each
ties, strength has the greatest effect on the yarn uneven- independent variable should be linear. The curve estima-
ness and higher fiber strength leads to a better yarn tion analysis showed that the micronaire value (Mic) is
evenness value and furthermore, fibers may be prevented related linearly to yarn hairiness by the following quadratic
from rupture due to higher strength. Reflectance, elonga- form:
tion, uniformity index, yellowness, fineness and short fiber
content are other important factors that influence yarn Quad(Mic) = 32.894 – 12.327 × Mic + 1.405 × Mic2 (1)
evenness. The roving count also has an important effect as
a finer roving has a higher unevenness value and this can Table 6 shows the regression coefficients, t-values and
be transferred onto the yarn. Table 5 shows the results of significance level of each variable. For the independent
the regression analysis. The predictive ability of our model variables’ the signs (+) or (–) indicates the direction of
is very high as shown in Figure 3. We obtained very high R2 their effect on hairiness. From the table, it can be seen that
(0.952), and adjusted R2 (0.949) values, and the standard yarn twist is the most important factor affecting the hairi-
error of estimates value was 0.533. ness value. Among fiber properties strength has the maxi-
mum effect on yarn hairiness and is followed by elongation
and length.
Regressional Estimation of Ring Cotton Yarn Properties from HVI Fiber Properties M. E. Üreyen and H. Kadoglu 365 TRJ

Table 6 Regression coefficients, t-values and significance level of variables of our linear regression model for yarn
hairiness.
Independent variables
Roving Quad Yarn cnt.
(Constant) Tpi Strength Elongation UHML +b Uniformity
CVm% (mic.) (Ne)
b* 18.958 –0.129 –0.107 0.394 1.107 –0.113 1.063 –0.020 –0.372 –0.173
t 5.752 –9.447 –8.580 11.575 11.467 –1.932 5.560 –3.148 –4.507 –3.709
Sig. 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.050 0.000 0.002 0.000 0.000
*Partial regression coefficient.

that the relationships between fiber properties and yarn


properties are almost linear. Therefore our models have
good prediction performance. The regression coefficient
R2 values of our models are very high and have greater sig-
nificance.
We also selected roving number and roving unevenness
value as independent variables in addition to fiber proper-
ties. Our tests indicated that roving properties have consid-
erable effects on all yarn properties. Yarn count and twist
are the most decisive factors for yarn properties. Among
the fiber properties, strength, elongation and fineness also
have great importance and other important fiber proper-
ties are uniformity index, length and short fiber content.
Our models show that reflectance (Rd) and yellowness
(+b) also have important effects on some yarn properties.
These fiber properties are most directly linked to the
growth environment. Bright, creamy-white fibers, which
have higher reflectance, are more mature. Premature ter-
Figure 4 Experimental and predicted values of yarn hair- mination of fiber maturation by application of growth reg-
iness. ulators, frost, or drought characteristically increases the
saturation of the yellowness (+b). It means that higher yel-
lowness is related to poorer quality. Obviously, we expected
a negative relationship between Rd and (+b) values. How-
The R2 values show that the model gave good predic-
ever we found a positive effect of both parameters on yarn
tion results (R2 = 0.843, adjusted R2 = 0.835, std. error of
properties in the regression models. There are some possi-
estimate = 0.326). Figure 4 show the scatter plot of pre-
ble reasons for this result. First, we used good quality cotton
dicted values versus experimental values and the regres-
samples. All samples were grown under normal weather
sion line of the model.
conditions and environment and so their color values are
The model indicates that increasing fiber strength, length,
acceptable for all spinners. Second, the cotton samples
yellowness, uniformity index, yarn twist and yarn count
were tested after finisher drawframe passages. The carding
(finer yarn) will reduce yarn hairiness. A greater uneven-
and combing processes removes trash and dust and once
ness of rovings and fiber elongation values increased the
these are removed, the Rd values increase and (+b) values
hairiness value.
decreases. Therefore both parameters seem to have good
effect on yarn properties. Ethridge [2], Sasser [13] and some
other researchers’ models, and also Uster’s spinning con-
Conclusion sistency index (SCI) includes both Rd and (+b) values with
positive signs.
Yarn properties are influenced by fiber properties, roving Autocorrelation between fiber properties can cause
properties, yarn count and twist. In this study we tried to instability in coefficients. Higher correlation between Rd
predict the most important yarn parameters of ring spun and (+b) is another possible reason for this results. The
cotton yarns with linear multiple regression analysis by same problem also arose for the prediction of tensile prop-
using these parameters. Our curve estimation tests indicate erties.
TRJ 366 Textile Research Journal 76(5)

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