Weber 32/36DGAV

Idle jet:
DARA, DATRA, DFAV, DFD, DFI, DFM, DFTA, DFV, DGAS, DHSA, DHTA, DIC, DICA, DIR, DMSA, and IDA
(3-barrel)

Emulsion tubes:
ADFA, DARA, DCN, DCOF, DFAV, DFD, DFI, DFM, DGAS, DHSA, DIC, DICA, DIR, DLED, DMSA, ICA, ICF, ICH, ICT, IDA
(3-barrel) carburetors.

Here's what I have on emulsion tube tuning for

61440 Tubes(DFAV, DGAV, IDA):

Richer or leaner fuel curves are achieved by altering the diameters of the tube itself(to establish the volume
of fuel in the well), its internal bore and the arrangement of radial holes drilled into it. The initiation of main
metering is determined by the position and number of holes in the top portion of the tube. This is the primary
reason the float level is such a critical item on Webers; if the float level is low, the engine will run lean until
the airflow is sufficient to draw fuel from the well around the tube. The reverse is true for too high a float
level.
Commonly used: F2, F3, F11
Leaner top end: F8, F16, F20
Leaner low end and throttle response: F33, F34
Richer low end and throttle response: F5, F7, F21
Richer throttle response, no change in top end mixture: F25
Take that with a grain of salt...they don't even list the F50/F66...so where that is in reference, I can't say.
Emulsion Tube fits The Weber 40 - 46 IDA (3V) ADFA, DARA, DCN, DCOF, DFAV, DFEV, DFD, DFI, DFM,
DGV, DGAV, DGAV, DHSA, DIC, DIR, DLED, DMSA, ICA, ICH, ICT carburetors.

Fits Weber types

ADC
ADF
ADFA
ADHA
ADL
ADLA
ADLD
ADS
ADSD
DAC
DAR
DARA
DATA
DCN
DFA
DFAV
DFC
DFE
DFM
DFI
DFV
DGAR
DGAS
DGAV
DGF
DGMS
DGS
DGV
DHS
DHSA
DHTA
DIC
DICA
DIR
DM
DMA
DMS
DMSA
DPS
IBA

IBF
IBP
IBSA
IBSH
ICB
ICEV
ICF
ICH
ICP
ICR
IDAP
IDT
IMB
IMPE
TL
TLA
TLC
TLDA
TLDE
TLDM
TLDR
TLF
TLM
TLP
All 3 barrel carburettors

Main jets:

ADC, ADF, ADFA, ADHA, ADL, ADLA, ADLD, ADS, ADSD

DAC, DAR, DARA, DATA
DCB, DCD, DCHE, DCOF, DCN, DCZ
DFA, DFAV, DFC, DFE, DFM, DFI, DFV
DGAR, DGAS, DGAV, DGF, DGMS, DGS, DGV
DHS, DHSA, DHTA
DIC, DIR, DM, DMA, DMS, DMSA, DPS
IBA, IBF, IBP, IBSA, IBSH,ICB, ICEV, ICF, ICH, ICP, ICR
IDAP, IDT, IMB, IMPE
TL, TLA, TLC, TLDA, TLDE, TLDM, TLDR, TLF, TLM, TLP
3 Barrel carburettors.

Air Corrector jets:

ADC, ADF, ADFA, ADHA, ADL, ADS, ADSD

DAC, DAR, DARA
DCN, DCOF
DFAV, DFC, DFE, DFD, DFM, DFI

DGAV, DGF, DGS, DGV

DHSA
DIC, DICA, DIR, DMSA, DPS
IBA, IBP, IBSA ICH, ICT
IMB, OC
TLDA, TLDE, TLDM
3 Barrel carburettors.

Kit revisie:

Kit complet 92.11137.05 comprenant flotteur / pointeau / joint de dessus de cuve / membrane
de starter auto / vis et goupille pour
*32/36 DGAV1D1 sur Taunus et cortina 1600 TM/TA ;
*32/36 DGAV 1B-01B sur taunus et cortina 1600 GT ;
*32/36 DGAV 4D1 sur taunus/cortina/granada 2000 TA ;
*32/36 DGAV 3B1 et 3B2 sur Taunus /cortina 2000

Carfil 32 IRM
Difuzor principal:
32 IRM-SA 27 (motor 102.00)
32 IRM-2AM 27 (motor 102.00)
32 IRM-2C 17 (motor 102.08)
32 IRM-2E 27 (motor 102.08)
32 IRM - 25,5
32 IRM-A - 25,5
32 IRM-A5 - 15,5
Centrator amestec:
Toate modelele mai putin 32 IRM-2C au 3,5
32 IRM-2C 2,5 motor 102.08:
Jiclor principal:
32 IRM-SA 155 (motor 102.00)
32 IRM-2AM 140 (motor 102.00)
32 IRM-2C 148 (motor 102.08)
32 IRM-2E 145 (motor 102.08)
32 IRM - 145
32 IRM-A - 135
32 IRM-A5 - 140
Jiclor frinare aer:
32 IRM-SA 140 (motor 102.00)
32 IRM-2AM 145 (motor 102.00)
32 IRM-2C 140 (motor 102.08)
32 IRM-2E 140 (motor 102.08)
32 IRM - 155
32 IRM-A - 170
32 IRM-A5 - 170
Tub emulsor;
Toate modelele mai putin 32 IRM-A au
32 IRM-A - E6
Ajutaj descarcare pompa repriza:
Toate modelele - 45
Jiclor mers gol:
Toate modelele -

52

Ac - supapa:
Toate modelele - 1,5

F20

Plutitor:
Toate modelele mai putin 32 IRM au 7
32 IRM - 6.

Dacia 1400: 32 IRM 2AM

Tuning a R12
by Chris B.C. Angelo
Tuning a R12 may be a little difficult. If you can find parts,a little easier. Main points are the engine,the
suspension and the brakes.
Let's start with the engine.The R12 production model is equipped with the 73x77 1289cm3
engine.Increasing the power,acceleration and torque can be done by simply tuning it,or replacing the
pistons,cylinders,crankshaft,etc.,with the 76x77 1397 cm3 of the R5(the engine block must be also
replaced,or adjusted to fit the 76mm bore). (The 1565 77x84 Gordini engine also fits). The camshaft
can be replaced with R15TL's (62/22 degrees valve timing, as opposed to 20/60 original),or with a
R5's, but measure it carefully.
The compression ratio can be increased to 10:1,but I don't recommend it. If you can get a 9,5:1 is well.
(Get a specialised workshop to do it, never touch it without precision tools).
A new plug set is absolutely necessary,try multiple electrode types from Autolite,or the fantastic W78G
from Bosch. Do not put colder plugs. A thermic value of 170-200 is enough.
The ignition setting must be checked carefully, with a timing light and precision rpm counter. Set the
ruptor's contacts gap at 0.35-0.4mm, to have 60% Dwell. Never touch them again, as it modificates the
initial advance very much. Calculate (depends on clutch plate diameter) the advance degrees in
mm,mark the 5,10,20 degrees with fluorescent paint on the clutch edge(the 0 is marked), and check the
centrifugal advance,which must be 20 degrees on the crankshaft at 2000rpm, with the vacuum advance
disconected.
Increase or lower the springs in the distributor,until the values fit.The vacuum advance set is max 5
degrees at 850rpm,also check it. Using an electronic ignition (transistor switch) adaptable directly onto
the existing sistem is very effective, and I strongly recommend to purchase one. Plug tension increases
to 25-30KV,and cold starts are very easy. An electronic alternator relay(also a bigger alternator,replace
the dynamo if you have one-it is not reliable and is very poor in terms of efficiency, a 60A alternator is
good) and a good battery (I recommend a Delco Freedom >55Ah) is a must for constant 14V on the
ignition system, making a constant relanti, and preventing overheating of electric components. Mount a
new distributor and distributor cap, as they wear out fast (must be done before any ignition adjustment).
The initial advance is a subtle adjustment, depending on the fuel used. My advice is to run on highest
possible octane fuel, 98octanes minimum. Carefully set the initial advance at 0 degrees(vacuum
disconected), and progressively fast, accelerate the engine;increase it in 1 degree steps ,listening to
detonation sounds, if they appear(high pitched metallic sounds). If they are heard, return 2-3degrees
and block theignitor. Differences in 1-2 degrees ARE essential. Hear the engine in traction, and vary the

initial advance, if the sound is weird, or there is a power or acceleration loss. I recommend around
5mm advance (clutch of 180mm diameter). It will increase power, and not affect the parts(detonation is
a very serious problem, avoided with hi-octane fuel and rich fuel mixtures. Basically, it consists in
explosions by compression, before the spark plug initiates the normal ignition - much like in a Diesel
engine, caused also by deposits on cylinder and valve heads, and it can lead to piston failure). The
advance can be increased if the carburettor is a multi-barrel, or rejetted. The carburettor is usually a 32
mm Solex. If you have a constant depression type S.U.,replace it.
If you can make new intake manifolds,mount anything from 32 mmm single barrel to 4 barels (twin
double barrel carbs-see R12Gordini), like Solex 34PIC, 30CIC ,40DDHE, even a 4A1 can be tried,or
Weber 32/38/40/42/45 DCOE, 38/42DCNF, 32DIR/DARA.(Carburettor replacements require a fair
amount of experience in carb jetting, and complicated procedures). However,the simplest way is to
rejet the existing carb,the Solex 32 EISA.After many tests , I recommend the following values: main jet
180, correction air jet 180(yes,the same value, for performance reasons,and allowing warmer plugs to
be mounted), secondary jet 90, idle jet 40 or 42.5 , acceleration pump injector 30-35. Set the fuel level,
adjust 12,7mm from the the carb lid to floater's mid ring. Adjust the acceleration pump so it can
function throughout the entire rpm range(instead of cut at 2000rpm). (A very important part is a fuel
filter before the fuel pump,and a fine particles filter before the carb,as rust or gasoline gums can
obliterate the jets.Also wash the carb in special washer or 110octane fuel once a year-the brass jets and
rubber parts in fuel only!).
Carb tuning can be done checking the plug color. Up to 2000rpm, the idle jet can adjust the mixture.
Color should be brown,with clean isolators; grey is too lean, black, smoked is too rich; oil on the plug
means it isn't working. Set the plug gap to 0.5mm with normal ignition , 0.7-0.9mm with electronic
ones. Check color after 10 min run on flat road, at constant rpm (1500,2000,2500,...5000-using a
inferior gear at hi-rpms). Cut engine imediately after stopping the car, and watch the color. At high
rpms it is better to be more dark, because the hi-speed air intake makes lean mixtures, leading to
detonation, low performance,and engine overheating. A too lean or too rich mix will make the
accelerations go slow; a very rich mixture changes the engine sound very much. See that all pieces of
accelerator pedal, including cable, are intact. With this jet values , you'll easily reach 100km/h in 3rd
gear(1,48/3,777 gear ratio).
If you can ,mount a air intake on the hood (see R12G); never lose the air filter - shortens the engine life
for very little power boost.
Lose the first exhaustion silencer,replace it with a pipe of the same length(once sold by the factory-see
catalogue P.R.907). Polish the intake and exhaust manifolds on the inside,and also piston heads and
valve heads.Make sure the valves' springs are new - it is a major power loss reason. Make 1.5mm rings
from brass,and place them under the springs - this will make for precise valve timing at hi-rpms,and the
sound of engine will go a little firmer,with a touch of "hiss" .Adjust the valve gaps(make sure the
valves close firmly on their seat when you assemble the engine,if not polish the valve seats with special
carborundum polish, until the seat has a perfect ring in the middle - watch out for bent valve headsreplacing is absolutely necessary!).
Get rid of the heavy ventilator fan and mount a light plastic one (electic fans are also good,but depend
on an electical contact which can easily fail,so they are not a "mount and forget" item).
For better acceleration,you can take some weight off the clutch plate,but do not exagerate-it will

become fragile. Half a kg to one kg will do, if it is a heavy one(5kg). If it is a thin one leave as it is. (I
dont recommend rod thinning-use it to even the rod weights and just that.This gets us to piston balancemake sure the weight differences are under 1gm,best 0gm.)
To end the engine section, make sure the distribution chain is new,or you'll get a trembling engine at all
rpms,or backfires-if it has over 25000kms,change it. The oil must be in the SJ range, I recommend
Castrol GTX3 15W40,or better Castrol Racing RS 5W60. A high pressure oil pump from a R18 can be
useful (7bar as opposed to 4bar original max. pressure).
The original brakes are not very efficient. Get a double-circuit brake pump-like R Fuego's,or a larger
DBX Bendix with by-pass (also putting a new back brakes limitator,with return circuit). If you want
performant brakes,never put a servo - it loses pressure quickly and blocks the front of the car when it
kicks in. The R12 is an under steering car, so if you need, increase the pressure on the back brakes from
the limitator (it works from 32bar-no load to 40 bar-full loaded car). As always,theR12G's brakes (front
ventilated discs,back discs) are an optimum, if you can find them. In all cases put new friction surfacesBendix originals.
Get some alloy wheels-the steel original ones are heavy and not very confortable, as well as 4.5' in
width ,with 155R13S tyres. Maximum width of tyres is 195 (to fit underneath the body ),so get 5.5' or
6' wheels with 185/60R13H (pressure 2.0/2.0)or 195/55R13H (pressure 2.25/2.25) tyres , (the entire
wheels from R5GT Turbo(3 bolts rims)-they are perfect!). These values will increase significantly the
overall acceleration, and , mostly, the stability.
New shock absorbers are a must. Get some Monroe Sensatrac, Koni Reds - with some modification,or
equivalent, with action adjustment if possible. Make reinforcement bars between the shock absorber
fixing points on the car body, from 1inch steel pipe in front-but also in the back,if necessary (rough
roads) .In combination with the new tyres, you can correct the car to neutral steering,or even
oversteering (if you lower the pressure in the back tyres). Mount the R12G stabilisation bars(25mm
front,20mm back),or mount twin stabilisators in the back(2x14mm) - but it is not a very good choice, as
the front is heavier.
Check the wheels' angles on anelectronic tester(make sure the front and back wheels are parallel,
perpendicular on the ground, and the body's longitudinal line begins and ends at the same height (for
this last one,3.15 degrees will do, or H5-H2=50mm).
Test the car on low adherence road (sand,grass,etc.), perfectly flat, and see if front or rear goes first in a
fast turn-be extremely careful not to flip the car on one side-an experienced competition driver gets it
easy under control, a less experienced one, not. NEVER TEST THE CAR ON PUBLIC ROADS ! - it
is dangerous both for you and the others, as you don't know the exact reactions of a car during tests
following performance improvement modifications. Do not exceed the speeds(3.777:1 transmission
ratio): 45 in 1st gear(3.61),76 in 2nd(2.26),110 in the 3rd(1.48),150 in 4th(1.032gear ratio).
You can check the maximum speed only on closed roads, specifically designed for this purpose, with
adequate security - you don't have rollbars or airbags, and R12's frame, although crash tested,is not that
strong. (If you can,get a 5speed gear box,also from a R12G - you'll not go faster in terms of maximum
speed, but the acceleration will go faster - on winding roads especially - you have a great 3rd gear of
1.61,a 4th of 1.21,and a 5th of 1.032 or 0.97 gear ratio). Set a RPM counter on the dashboard,and never
go over 6400rpms (better set an electronic beeper to sound at 6000rpm,conected to the rev counter), or
the engine will fail - also mark the value visibly on the rev counter. With low tyres, the speed meter will

show more than the actual speed (1.82m circumference on 155R13,174cm on 185/60R13,173cm
on195/55R13 - you can calculate the percentage to be deducted from the speed dial), so watch carefully
the rpm counter-a racer's most prized indicator.
An oil pressure ,oil and water temperature indicators (from a R12G,with the measuring devices to fit on
the engine) is very useful. A big front radiator will keep the engine cooled, so get one. Never remove
the thermostat. Use antifreeze liquid at all times, and not water only. Back inside, the steering wheel is
a large diameter one, and allows a good control for a non-servo steering. Do not replace it for a smaller
one - the car can get rough in case of tyre blow.
Polish the car - it gets more aerodynamic-it is not a joke. If you want to put an air deflector to push the
car down at high speed, keep in mind that the air over the body of a R12 takes off at the end of the
superior surface, not at the end of the car (that's why this car's back windscreen is always clean during
rain drives!). If you don't need the bumpers, remove them, as well the back seats, carpets, etc-but only
for competition reasons, otherwise you'll work for very much for very little.On public roads, keep the
bumpers on, for safety reasons. The handbrake button can be blocked or removed (floor models), to
help oversteering when needed (tete-a queue,hairpin,etc.).
Success in tuning the unique R12,and drive well. I did and I'm very pleased with it! E-mail me at
bc71237@yahoo.com and send any questions on this car: tech,maintenance or other.
Chris B.C. Angelo.

Formulae:
Diamtre du carburateur :
D = k x racine ( C x n )
o D diamtre carburateur (mm), C cylindre unitaire (litres), n rgime moteur (tr/mn)
k = 0.8 pour 80 100 ch/l (Moto 4 temps)
0.85
80 100 ch/l (Auto 4 temps)
0.9
100 150 ch/l (Moto 2 temps)
Formule Solex :
1 4 cylindres : D = 0.82 x racine ( C x n )
6 cylindres : D = racine ( C x n )
8 cylindres : D = 1.15 x racine ( C x n )
Formule Weber :
D = 0.8 0.9 x racine ( C x n )

Dimensions principales :
diffuseur ou venturi d = 0.8 D
gicleur principal
Gp = 5 d
ajutage d'automaticit a = Gp + 60

D'aprs les courbes proposes dans le document Weber :

diamtre du carburateur en mm
moteurs 4 temps, 4 ou 6 cylindres, environ 5000 tr/mn : ( Cylindre totale * 0.875 ) + 11.125
moteurs sportifs 4 temps sans compresseur
6000 tr/mn : ( cylindre unitaire * 0.055 ) + 11.125
8000 tr/mn : ( cylindre unitaire * 0.070 ) + 14,250
10000 tr/mn : ( cylindre unitaire * 0.085 ) + 15.375
plus grand : puissance maxi rgime lev, vitesse maxi sur route.
plus petit: meilleure acclration, diminution de la puissance maxi.
gicleur principal (en mm)
mini (diffuseur * 0,051) - 0,03
maxi (diffuseur * 0,058) + 0,07
One of my Weber books lists these emulsion tubes versus cylinder capacity:
F11 - 250cc to 325cc
F15 - 275cc to 400cc
F16 - 350cc to 475cc
F2 - 450cc to 575cc
F8 - 550cc to 675cc
F7 - 675cc and above

Weber dgav tuning

So what can you do on your own? Well, you could buy a box of spiffy jets and other hardware, then
spend about 100 years trying all the combinations to find the ultimate results. This is done commonly
and is generally called racing. Or you could listen to what others have done with similar applications
and buy a much smaller box of spiffy jets and things and probably achieve the same results. Or you
could go to someone who has already done this enough times to know how and is willing to do it for
you. In the end, you will have a simple little carburetor that performs great and that you understand
a bit better.
The good news is that the Webers, as you buy them, are set up very close to what you need.
(Caution: if you are the junkyard dog insisting that the $10 DFV off the old Renault you found is right
for you, you have your work cut out for you, I promise. I intend to try to save you some of the joy of
that tuning exercise here.) This data is for rather mild, more or less stock-type motors. If you really
want some unique, high-power motor, you probably aren't going to use the DGV anyway. You may
elect to challenge my advice and, if you add to it, I'll be pleased. What I just promised is to lay out a
tuning procedure using the small box of spiffy jets. To begin, you must have a solid engine and fully
functional electrical system. It sounds silly, but most of the time a carburetor is replaced because
another part is malfunctioning. If the engine isn't pumping the air in and out smoothly and
predictably, then the carburetor hasn't much chance to match that air with gas. If the electrical
system isn't firing all of the cylinders properly, tuning the carburetor will be no help. I find that, most
of the time, my first evaluation of whether a problem is carburetor or ignition is exactly wrong! The
point is to first get the simple stuff right.
We are now ready to start in on tuning the carburetor. Take the top off the carburetor and locate all of
the jets, the nice brass parts. They are brass so they can be easily produced with the required
precision, but you can easily mess them up with the wrong size tools. (The correct tools for this job

were covered in the previous article, which also has cutaway drawings to help you locate and identify
the parts.) Write down their values and put them back in exactly the same place from which they
came. Few will fit into the wrong location, but be very careful and thorough here. The top is held on
with six screws and a clip on the choke linkage. Use the proper sizes of screwdrivers and take your
time. You may be able to buy all the little pieces for a Weber but you'll not like their cost!
The idle jets are in holders on both sides at the top of the body. The air jets are in the center on the
top, the e-tubes are directly beneath them in the body, and the main jets and power valve are in the
bottom of the float chamber. The accelerator-pump jet is the little aluminum wing-shaped part
overhanging both halves of the carburetor. The float valve and float are in the top cover. Generally,
you won't change the power valve unless it is damaged. It's located on the very bottom of the floatchamber floor. You should now have a list of jets something like: primary idle 60, primary main 140,
primary air 170, primary e-tube F50, secondary idle 60, secondary main 135, secondary air 170,
secondary E-tube F 52, and pump jet 40. Measure the float height from the top by holding the cover
vertically with the pivot at the top and the float dangling and just closing the valve. If you just
measure it upside down, the distance will be too small. It should be 41mm with a brass float or
35mm with a plastic float.
Reassemble everything and test the performance of the car. Make note of any popping or surging
and where they occur as the throttle position and load changes. Write things down and take your
time. Try to imagine where you are in the range of flow I rambled on about a little while ago. The trick
is to go right to the area of concern instead of the one next to it. It isn't easy but it can be fun. It is
typical for this carburetor to have richness in the primary progression. This offers good power
characteristics but is overdone for our application (The DAF is just the opposite). You will feel it as a
hesitation at light load, and you may have a black tailpipe after a freeway cruise. This may not be as
much a problem on a two-liter as a 1600. Also, it is typical for the secondary to have a lean
progression which will feel like a hesitation as you open the secondary and maybe even cause a pop
back through the carburetor. You should be able to feel the resistance of the secondary as you open
it with the throttle at about 2/3 travel. Finally, look for a hesitation when you suddenly add throttle at
several points along the flow range. The accelerator pump is usually a bit small, and this is a good
indication. Lean will feel like a sudden loss, whereas rich feels like a gradual one, and right on feels
very good.
[/quote][quote]
Now you get to make your first guess for improvements. Do everything one-step at a time and test
your results. The basic process is to go lean until you know you're too far then back up one jet. You
will feel the lean condition much more easily than a rich one. Remember to change only one thing at
a time even though I am giving you about ten here. This means you will have lots of fun, and it is
also why shops don't sell this procedure, no one wants to pay for the time. The primary circuit is
where you spend most of the time when you drive the car so it is a good place to start. If your
carburetor is rich as I suspect, you will need a smaller main fuel jet or larger air jet. Replace the 170
air jet with a 160. Small motors will likely want a smaller main, a 135 or 130. The #40 pump jet is
always too small, go ahead and install a 45 for small motors, a 50 for large motors and violate the
one thing at a time rule.
Reassemble and test the car, remembering that lean will surge and rich will lag. You want crisp and
happy. Try jet changes one at a time if you want perfection. You may become sensitive to the area
around 1/4 throttle feeling soft, we can change the e-tube to a F11 to correct that. Next, we'll tune
the secondary. Remember to test it by getting into it, I mean really into it! You should feel a fullpower surging which will be more apparent as you fine tune the primary, partly from improvements
in your carburetor and partly from improvements in your technique. I find an L18 to like a secondary
air of 115 and a secondary main as low as 85 (bigger motors may like a main of 90 to 100). These
values assume you are using the F9 emulsion tube in the secondary main circuit.
[/quote][quote][/quote][quote]Once you are happy with your primary jetting, you may choose to work
on the idle jetting. This is a different technique and doesn't require removing the top of the
carburetor, but it doesn't work well until the primary is pretty close. The technique is to drop the idle
to a minimum value with the two adjusters (the mixture screw will be about two turns and the
throttle screw at the minimum setting) as close to completely shut as possible while still keeping the
motor running. You want maybe 750 rpm here. Now, slowly screw in the throttle adjust to speed up
the motor to about 1500 rpm and listen to the progression. You want a smooth progression with no
surging. A lean mixture may cause stalling. Now return to the low rpm and open the mixture screw

1/2 turn and do the test again. If it improves, then raise the idle jet to a 70 or the next size. If it
deteriorates, drop one jet. Retest. The carburetor will run on the idle circuit, but since this is the
smallest jet, it is the most likely to become plugged. If you lose your idle, check this jet first as it's
the most likely to be plugged and the easiest to get to. If you just can't get the engine to idle without
propping open the throttle with the idle speed screw, the secondary idle needs adjustment (if your
carburetor has in idle hole below the secondary throttle plate). The secondary idle circuit has no
metering screw so you will need to clean or replace the jet if adjustment is needed.
To repeat, you will find in your experimentation that lean is very easily sensed. You can do a very
good job of tuning if you use the technique of going leaner in steps until too lean, then back one
step. Smaller mains are leaner, larger airs are leaner. The progression from low throttle up, as you
feel it, is idle to e-tube, to main jet, to air jet, and, of course, primary to secondary. The pump and
choke circuits are not involved. Now, if you have the equipment to read the tailpipe you can do a
little better in the lean vs. rich sensing. You will be looking for CO readings of 3% to 6% (3% are the
best smog value for cruise conditions, and 6% is the best power number for WOT.) Hydrocarbons
(HC) under 200 ppm (parts per million) is reasonable with a carburetor tuned for a full power A/F ratio
of 11:1 to 12.5:1 for load and 15:1 for cruise, which should work with the above values. Idle screw
adjustments are done to minimum C0 and HC readings. 2-5% C0 and 200 ppm HC seem reasonable
goals. If the HC level reads above 200 ppm check for a spark miss. For a drag strip type dyno run,
one step too lean will cost 0.3 seconds between 3000 and 6000 rpms, while one step too rich will
cost 0.1 second. A final note: Altitude corrections are mostly done with the primary main: one size
smaller for every 3000 feet. That means one or two steps for Shasta.
To summarize and deliver the promise, I have given you a chart of spiffy jets to build your collection,
the infamous small box. You will learn to disagree with and expand upon this list. Earlier, I said you
would likely feel no power increase with a super tuning of your carburetor, and that is true, but you
will get a bunch more power in the area between idle and full power which will feel like a lot more
power and allow you to go faster and use less gas. Or is that OR use less gas!
Good luck.

(32/36 DGAV) carburettor

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 25 rpm Idle mixture (CO
content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 0.2%
Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2900 100 rpm
Float level (without gasket): Brass float . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.0
mm (1.61 in)
Plastic float . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.3 mm
(1.39 in)
Automatic choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5 0.25 mm (0.26 0.01 in)
Automatic choke phasing dimension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 0.25 mm (0.06 0.01 in)
Primary Secondary
Throttle barrel diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.0 mm 36.0 mm
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 26.0 mm 27.0 mm
Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 45
Main jet:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 130
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....130 132
Air correction jet:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 120
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... 170 120
Emulsion tube:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F66 F66
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... F50 F66