FABRIC STRUCTURE & DESIGN

ASSIGNMENT ON BASIC WEAVES

Done By
SOWMIYA G.K
10 BCD 041
2nd BSC CDF
Basic Wa! S"#$c"$#s%
The way in which the warp threads are laced or woven together determines
the structure of the cloth. There are three basic weave structures from which
most woven patterns originate.
The three basic weave structures are Plain Weave, Twill Weave and Satin
Weave.
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
Plain weave is the most basic weave structure. The weft threads interlace
with the warp (vertical) threads in a simple over one, under one pattern.
Twill weave structure is the weft (horizontal) threads interlace with the warp
(vertical) threads to mae diagonal lines in the cloth.
Satin weave structure is the weft (horizontal) threads float over the tops of
groups of warp (vertical) threads creating a smooth and shiny cloth.
Wa!in& T#adi"i'ns a#'$nd "( W'#)d%
!frica
"uatemala
#ndonesia
$orth !merica
Peru
Scotland
A*#ican Na##'+,s"#i- Wa!in&
Kent Cloth
%ent &loth is woven, narrow strips of cloth decorated with simple pictures
and figures. The traditional figures such as the goat, elephant and lion all have a
story associated with them. This cloth is sometimes called story cloth. The
narrow stripes are sewn together to create %ent &loth. The cloth is then used for
traditional style clothing or household decoration.
G$a".a)an Wa!in&
Ikat Stripes
Inlay
#at is a techni'ue for dyeing fiber. Sections along the length of a
bundle of threads are tied off so the dye will not penetrate into the fiber. This
process results in intricate designs in the cloth. This picture shows #at and solid
colour stripes.
The bold and colourful designs characteristic of "uatemalan cloth are
woven using an inlay techni'ue. The inlay techni'ue re'uires the weaver to
place a pattern thread into the warp on top of the bacground cloth. The design
is built up, row by row, by placing the pattern thread in the desired location.
(igures and geometric designs are popular in "uatemalan cloth.
Ind'nsian I/a"
#at is a process for dyeing threads before weaving. The warp or weft thread
bundles are bound with a material that will not tae up any colour in the dye
bath.
Traditional #ndonesian te)tile artist developed and perfected the #at dye
process over many years. #at woven cloth is now produced in many countries.
Wa!in& in N'#"( A.#ica
$orth !merican &olonial Weaving
(rench &anadian &atalogue
*insey+Woolsey
The $avaho
The Salish
,-ibwa .ead Weaving
The Shaers
0#$!ian Wa!in&
/and+woven "oods
*lamas
Peruvian weavers are silled tapestry weavers. Tapestry weaving involves
creating pictures and shapes in woven cloth with yarn. The woven pictures can
range from very comple) to very simple. This picture shows an open maret
where items woven in strips and tapestry, are offered for sale.
This picture shows a herd of llamas. The llama is used in Peru as a
woring animal to carry goods and people. !lso, the llama hair is harvested and
spun into yarn. Peruvian weavers use this yarn in their weaving.
The llamas are wearing saddle blanets on their bacs. The saddle blanet
is a small rug woven to cover the llama0s bac. Peruvian weavers have woven
strips and shapes on the saddle blanets.
Wa!in& in Sc'")and
The Scottish Tartan
/arris Tweed
/ow to Weave
The Warp Threads
The Weft Threads
BASIC WEA1E DESIGNS
.asic weave designs. #t is generally accepted that there are three basic
weaves.
P*!#$ W1!21 TW#** W1!21

S!T#$ !$3 S!T11$ W1!21

1ach of these three fabrics has a different te)ture. !ssuming that they
have similar yams and the same number of warp and filling yams per unit
length, they have different properties, e.g., tensile strength. !lthough there are
some weaves that are difficult to structurally connect to these three basic
structures, most of the others are derived from these three basic weaves. The
immediate derivatives of these three structures are warp rib, filling rib, and
baset weave. #t should be noted that some consider the twill weave as the only
basic weave from which all the other weaves are derived.