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ASIAGO d'ALLEVO: This was originally ewe's milk cheese made in the foothills
of the Dolomites although now it is made almost entirely from cow's milk in the
provinces of Vincenza and Trento and parts of Padua and Treviso. Asiago is a
pressed cooked cheese that produces a firm,strong table cheese after two to six
months. Cheeses ripened for longer are used purely for grating and Asiago
d'Allevo is renowned as an extra strong cheese. The protein content is 33%;
fat/dry matter content, 34%. Calories per 4 oz. The name Asiago was previously
classified as a trade name, in December 1978 was recognized as a name of
origin. Asiago Pressato is similar to d'Allevo but is a milder cheese, ripened for
twenty to forty days and used almost exclusively as a table cheese.
BEL PAESE: This unpressed, cooked and ripened cheese was created by
Egidio Galbani in 1906 and made at Melzo in Lombardy. It is one of the most
popular cheeses of this century and is creamy white or pale yellow, soft, buttery
and elastic, without holes but with a pleasant, tangy flavor. The name means
beautiful country. Bel Paese is matured for about 50 days and contains 48%-50%
fat in dry matter
BURRINI: This is a specialty cheese from the very south of Italy, the regions of
Puglia and Calabria in particular. Small, pear shaped cheeses of mild and
distinctive flavor are carefully molded around a pat of sweet butter, which later
will be spread on bread and eaten with the cheese. These cheeses are ripened
for just afew weeks and for export are usually dipped in wax or specially
packaged. This cheese is also sometimes called Butirri, Burielli or Provole.
CACETTI: These small cheeses are very similar to Burrini but without the heart
of butter. They are spun curd cheeses, dipped in wax and hung by raffia strands
to ripen for about ten days.
CURD: 1. When it coagulates, milk separates into a semisolid portion (curd) and
a watery liquid (WHEY). CHEESE is made from the curd. 2. A creamy mixture
made from juice (usually lemon, lime or orange), sugar, butter and egg yolks.
The ingredients are cooked cool, the lemon (or lime or orange) curd becomes
thick enough to spread and is used as a topping for breads and other baked
goods. Various flavors of curd are available commercially in gourmet markets
and some supermarkets.
FONTINA: A very poular Italian cheese, genuine fontina comes from the Valle
d'Aosta in the most north west corner of Italy and plays an important part in the
cuisine of that area. It is made from the full cream milk of once milked cows with
acidity produced by natural fermentation. The cheese is medium hard although
its flesh is soft and melts easily. It is straw colored with a mild delicate flavor. It is
rippened for about three months and each cheese is marked with a picture of the
Matterhorn (which majestically marks the borders of Italy and switzerland).
Fontina has a 45% fat/dry matter content and 347 calories per 4 oz. serving.
MASCARPONE: a cows milk cheese that must be eaten very fresh, mascarpone
is a delicious creamy dessert cheese, a bit like whipped butter of stiffly whipped
cream. It is often sweetened slightly and served with fresh fruit and liquers.
Originally made only in Lombardy in the autumn and winter but now available all
the year round and is usually sold in muslin bags or tubs.
RICOTTA: ricotta cheese [rih-KAHT-tuh] This rich fresh cheese is slightly grainy
but smoother than cottage cheese. It's white, moist and has a slightly sweet
flavor. Most Italian ricottas are made from the WHEY drained off while making
cheeses such as MOZZARELLA and PROVOLONE. Technically, this type of
ricotta is not really cheese because it's made from a cheese by-product. In the
United States, ricottas are usually made with a combination of whey and whole or
skim milk. The word ricotta means "recooked," and is derived from the fact that
the cheese is made by heating the whey from another cooked cheese. Ricotta is
a popular ingredient in many Italian savory preparations like LASAGNA and
MANICOTTI, as well as desserts like CASSATA and CHEESECAKE.
WHEY: whey [HWAY; WAY] The watery liquid that separates from the solids
(CURDS) in cheesemaking. Whey is sometimes further processed into whey
cheese (see CHEESE). It can be separated another step, with butter being made
from the fattier share. Whey is also used in processed foods such as crackers.
Primarily, however, whey is more often used as livestock feed than it is in the
human diet.
Portions excerpted from The Food Lover's Companion, 2nd edition, by Sharon Tyler Herbst, Barron's
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