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Constructing Japanese Clothing
Women's Hakama (Kamakura, informal Heian)
Always red. Wear over a white kosode and tie them very high on the waist. There is only one
tie on women's hakama. The tie connects the front and back pieces on the left side (with a
slight gap between them) and ties in a bow on the right. If you have enough fabric, the front
end of the tie should wrap all the way around your waist before tying to the back in a big bow
on the right side. You may optionally wear uchigi and an Uwagi over top. Adjust leg length so
you won't trip over the hakama - they should just brush the top of the foot.
Layout for Women's Hakama on 4.5 yards of 45" wide fabric:
Layout for Women's Hakama on 3.5 yards of 60" wide fabric:
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Nagabakama (Women's Long Hakama):
Always red. Wear over a white kosode. Wear over a white kosode and tie them very high on
the waist. There is only one tie on women's hakama. The tie connects the front and back
pieces on the left side (with a slight gap between them) and ties in a bow on the right. If you
have enough fabric, the front end of the tie should wrap all the way around your waist before
tying to the back in a big bow on the right side. The nagabakama will drag on the ground
behind and you'll have to walk on the pants legs. Hitoe, multiple Uchigi, and Uwagi go over
top. Karaginu and Mo are added for formal situations.
Layout for Nagabakama on 5.25 yards of 45" wide fabric:
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Layout for Nagabakama on 3.7 yards of 60" wide fabric:
Constructing Women's Hakama or Nagabakama:
Attach leg pieces to each long side of an
inner leg piece, matching them up at the
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inner leg piece, matching them up at the
bottoms. Repeat for other inner leg piece.
(NOTE: Try to put selvedges on the
outsides of the leg pieces so you won't
have to finish them later.)

Hem the bottoms of the legs by folding
the raw edges twice to the inside and
sewing (or you can do this after the
hakama are complete)

Place the two U-shapes formed by the leg
pieces together, right sides facing in.
Sew them together along the inside of the
U. This will be the crotch seam, so you
may want to sew it twice or serge the
edges to prevent it from splitting open.
Clip the corners.
Sew each leg together along the outside
edge, stopping about 16 -18 inches from
the top (the side opening should come to
just above your knee). You will need to
fold each leg in half around the other leg
to sew.
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Calculate the finished width for the front and back panels by taking 1/2 your waist
measurement and subtracting 2.5 inches (Note: this is the amount of the gap between
the front and back panels - if you wish to have a larger gap, use a larger number).
Pin the front in 6 knife pleats: 3 pleats on
either side of the center seam, all pointing
towards the center seam. Adjust the pleat
depths so that the total width matches
your calculation.
Sew across all the pleats to hold them. If
the outside edges are raw or ugly, you will
also want to turn them to the inside and
stitch them in place.
Pin and sew the back into six pleats in the same manner as the front.
Ideally the tie should be long enough to go around your waist twice with at least 30" at
either end to make a bow. You can piece several lengths of fabric together to make the
total length. If you don't have enough fabric even with piecing, you can attach the tie so
the free ends are both about the same length and tie the ties directly together, without
wrapping the front tie around.
If you have enough fabric for the tie that wraps around twice, measure the total length of
the tie and subtract 2 x (your waist measurement) from that. Divide that number in half
(it should be greater than 30"). Mark that distance from one end of the tie with a pin.
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Line the pin on the tie up with the right
side of the back piece. Sew the upper
edge of the tie to the back pleats of the
hakama, right sides together.
Allow at least 2.5 inches of tie between the back and the front pieces (the same number
as you used to calculate the finished width of the panels)
Wrap the tie around to the front and sew
the upper edge of it to the front pleats,
right sides together.
Fold the tie up, over the raw edges of the front and back pleats. Turn under 1/2 inch
seam allowance and fold the edge to the inside so it meets the seamline from sewing
the ties on.
Handsew the tie to the inside of the hakama to hide the raw edges. Handsew the two
edges together on the section of the tie between the front and back. Add some extra
reinforcing stitches where the edges of the hakama meet the ties.
Handsew the remaining length of the ties in a tube, stopping about 15 inches from the
end. The ends of the ties should be left flat so they will make wide tails hanging down
from the bow. Turn under the raw edges of the ends on all 3 sides and sew them down.
Congratulations, you're done.... try them on!!
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Al l content copyri ght the author, Jenni fer Munson munson.j enni fer@gmai l .com The author makes
no guarantees for i nstructi ons and reci pes on thi s si te; nei ther does she accept responsi bi l i ty for thei r
outcomes. Verbati m copi es may be made for educati onal purposes onl y provi ded they contai n
ori gi nal copyri ght marki ng.
Thi s page created August 4, 2002
Last updated August 02, 2005