BE L GRAVI A RE S I DE NT S J OURNA L 019

T
he Jumeirah Carlton Tower hotel in Cadogan
Place was the tallest hotel in London when it
was built in 1961. The Rib Room opened its
doors that same year and, with a revamp in 2011, not
much has changed since.
An open space balancing Art Deco and traditional
wood panelling, it possesses an understated elegance
that mixes a clubby atmosphere with the sort of culinary
excellence that attracts a line of AA rosettes.
The restaurant
has always been on my
doorstep. Initially a venue
reserved for special family
occasions, later on, when
I became a member of the
Peak (the Jumeirahs gym),
it became the go-to place
with friends after a work-
out for a steak and glass
of red. The atmosphere is
glamorous yet unpretentious and the staff are friendly.
This combination continues to draw a mix of locals,
businessmen, hotel guests, politicians, actors, royals,
sportsmen and entrepreneurs.
Head chef Ian Rudge showcases the best of British
classic ne dining: rib of beef, the usual steak selection,
calfs liver, steak tartare and lamb cutlets as well as the fruits
of the sea. The emphasis is on the quality of the cuts and
ingredients, which are served in generous portions: these are
traditional dishes that refuse to be bashful.
First up is a prawn cocktail, a starter famous for
being badly made in the 1970s. Small brown shrimps swim
in a Marie Rose sauce that comes in a very large glass dish.
But despite its size, its merely an appetite-whetter for the
225g llet steak that follows.
I decide to quiz the waiters about the Lancashire
beef. Whats the science behind a steak? The rst part
of the equation is the breed, I learn; Aberdeen Angus
has a reputation as the best beef in the world due to its
high ratio of lean meat to fat and bone. Second is the
feed. Cows should be outside free to eat grass, which
produces tastier yet leaner beef. The fat then produced
creates marbling that contains higher levels of Omega 3
something that lessens the
impact of the meat on ones
cholesterol levels. Third is the
art of dry ageing. Hanging
the meat for a period of time,
ideally for at least 28 days,
allows the enzyme activity
to tenderise the beef and
strengthen the avour. The
science lesson over and done
with, I tuck in with gusto.
Prices dont seem high at all at The Rib Room if you
understand where you are and what you are eating.
2 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PY, 020 7858 7250
(theribroom.co.uk)
RIB TICKLER
It possesses an understated
elegance that mixes a clubby
atmosphere with the sort of
culinary excellence that attracts
a line of AA rosettes