TOKYO

COFFEE
TRAIL
CONTENTS
MARUYAMA
COFFEE
SARUTAHIKO
COFFEE
STREAMER
COFFEE
COMPANY
1 1 1
FUGLEN
TOKYO
LATTEST
OMOTESANDO
ESPRESSO
BAR
IDENTITY
COFFEEBAR
+
GALLERY
2 2 3
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
CONTENTS
OMOTESANDO
KOFFEE
BE A GOOD
NEIGHBOR
COFFEE
KIOSK
CAFE
LEGS
#3
3 4 4
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
MOCHA
COFFEE
THE
COFFEESHOP
HONEY
COFFEE
15351
4 5 5
CONTENTS
BEAR
POND
ESPRESSO
LITTLE
NAP
COFFEESTAND
BALLON
DESSAI
6 6 6
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
AMAMERIA
ESPRESSO
CAFE
OBSCURA
NOZY
COFFEE
7 7 8
09
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
FROM
SONIA MELVIN
E
very time we see each other, it is like seeing each other for the frst time. We spend hours sharing
our pasts, hopes, and dreams, over cups of coffee.
Gone are the days when you bemoan the lack of good coffee in Tokyo to stave off searing caf-
feine pangs. Specialty coffee joints are spawning across the metropolis constantly, and this book
can only serve as a general guide.
We went on a Tokyo Coffee Trail, and embarked on a journey of serendipity across 18 coffee
joints. Join us while we luxuriate in caffeine debauchery, and of course, love, as we explore To-
kyos burgeoning specialty coffee scene.
Follow us on a storied journey as we share about coffee, love, life, and everything in between.
In early 2011, we met through the Popular page on Instagram. Soon, we were
following each other . Likes and Comments led to messages on WhatsApp
and chats on Talkbox. Before we knew it, we had fallen head frst into a long dis-
tance relationship.
Many have said that most long distance relationships cannot last long enough to
ring the wedding bells. But we will persevere.
Because coffee drinkers make better lovers.
All information is correct at the time of writing, but is subject to change without notice.
&
www.CoffeeDrinkersMakeBetterLovers.wordpress.com
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TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
#01
11
MARUYAMA
COFFEE
A
s they prepared our orders, one of the baristas served sample cups of a natural
Panama Geisha (not on the menu at that time). It was a clean and well-balanced
cup, with abundant foral notes and hints of spice. We were relishing the Geishas
lingering fnish when our orders came in BODUM French presses: Sonia ordered
Panama Elida Geisha, and I wanted to try Costa Rica Zamora COE Number 1.
Elida Estate is one of the two highest coffee farms in Panama; varietals grown
are mainly Catuai and Bourbon, with Geisha planted in recent years. With rich vol-
canic soil, mild temperature, and high altitude, Elida Estate has been consistently
producing one of the highest rated natural processed coffees in the past years.
MARUYAMA COFFEEs washed Panama Elida Geisha was well-balanced, with a
light body and delicate acidity; we tasted lemon zest followed by an intense jasmine
aroma. The fnish was long and smooth, with a clear mandarin note.
Costa Rica Zamora COE Number 1 (2012), on the other hand, was a delightful or-
chestra of tropical fruits, sparkling with crisp citrus and berry notes. It had a deeply
complex aftertaste, fnishing in a silky, sweet dark honey.
Impressed, we bought beans from Brazil Santa Inez for some home brew action.
As a gesture of appreciation, we were offered two complimentary cups of coffee to
go. This is my third visit to Tokyo in less than two years, and I am still impressed
MARUYAMA COFFEE started in 1990 as a roaster/retailer ; now a highly suc-
cessful bidder for top lots at Cup of Excellence (COE) auctions, they offer the
worlds best coffee to discerning customers in Japan. Besides their fagship store
in Karuizawa, the greatly anticipated Tokyo shop opened in October 2012 at
Oyamadai. We trudged our way there, along the icy sidewalk on a frosty morning,
yearning for warm comfort from coffee.
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
12
MARUYAMA
COFFEE

Mikatajuku means a
free school of coffee
supporters.

by the impeccable service. Loitering along

rows of French presses and other coffee
paraphernalia on display, we indulged in our
second serving of the day.
Four trophies won by
their baristas caught our
attention: one of them, Miki
Suzuki, is the 2010, 2011
Japanese Barista Champi-
on. She scored an impres-
sive 5th placing in the 2011
World Barista Champion-
ship and came in 4th the
following year. Miki Suzuki
is one of the few women
who bucks convention in a male-dominated
coffee industry, serving as a powerful inspi-
ration to aspiring female baristas in Asia.
Speaking of inspiration, we ought to
share more about the founder Kentaro
Maruyama. MARUYAMA COFFEE began
as a small roaster in Japan. Together with
some other micro-roasters in Japan, they
formed a mailing list group
called Mikatajuku. Loose-
ly translated, Mikatajuku
means a free school of
coffee supporters.
Back then, information
about specialty coffee was
scarce; their voracious hun-
ger for knowledge drove
them to organise regular
sharing sessions. Many of them travelled
from different parts of Japan to gather at a
shop, cupped together and shared ideas.
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
13
touched he was while roasting the frst
batch. Unbelievably excited that they had
actually won a lot from COE, the efferves-
cence soon spilled over to customers.
2002 turned out to be a pivotal year.
MARUYAMA COFFEE won the Number 1 lot
Agua Limpa from the Brazil COE at a record
price. Their customers were blown away by
the great coffee and the rest, as they say, is
history.
On the way back, I pondered over
Maruyamas story while watching the drab
jungle fashed by in an endless streak.
Maruyama had emphasised how they start-
ed as a small roastery: Because specialty
always start from small; we can grow to-
gether.
MARUYAMA COFFEE is a classic case
of fedgling startups forming a collective,
sharing an ideology, and working towards
a common goal. Working together opens
up strategic opportunities that would have
been unobtainable otherwise. I have a feel-
ing Maruyamas story will provide food for
thought in time to come.
Meanwhile, our Tokyo Coffee Trail has just
begun.

Some of them attended a Specialty Coffee
Association of America (SCAA) event in Mi-
ami, and found themselves on a cruise boat
party mingling with famous coffee produc-
ers like Mr.Trygve of Solberg & Hansen.
Maruyama mulled over what he had learnt
during the event. He felt the disparity be-
twen them and world-class pioneers of spe-
cialty coffee was too stark. They might be
a small roaster, but Maruyama would not
let anything stop them from forging to the
frontiers of specialty coffee. He racked his
brain, thinking of ways to work towards the
cutting edge of coffee industry.
Maruyama believed that to become true
blue specialty roasters they should build
direct, long-term relationships with the cof-
fee producers. He thought the COE could
serve as a program that bridged specialty
coffee producers and roasters.
Economically, it made more sense too: as
a micro-roastery, they could not afford to
purchase entire shipping containers of cof-
fee. The COE lots were smaller in quantity
and were within their handling capability.
With this in mind, they decided to pool all
their resources into COE as a group, so that
they could enjoy the economies of scale.
MARUYAMA COFFEEs frst success-
ful COE lot was Danilandia from Guante-
mala. Maruyama could still remember how
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COFFEE TRAIL
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15
#02
SARUTAHIKO COFFEE is named after a powerful guardian deity of the Japa-
nese Shinto religion. Despite what the name suggests, the coffee shop is far from a
gaudy Kissaten (Japanese-style coffee house). Bathing in the warm glow of light-
ing from steampunk copper fxtures, the cosy little shop is an eclectic stash of
tarnished weighing scales and quirky babys milk bottles flled with coffee beans.
O
wner Tomoyuki Ootsuka is a young man with a burning desire to share the enjoy-
ment of specialty coffee. He started SARUTAHIKO COFFEE in June 2012 offering
hand drip coffee only. Now he serves espresso drinks as well, with beans from Nozy
Coffee and Cafetenango. Apparently, their Honey Latte is also a hit with the ladies.
The affable, fresh-faced baristas were cheery despite being busy with orders.
They even squeezed in time for friendly chatter with customers who were there for
takeaways, before scurrying back to work. Bustling with unbridled enthusiasm, SA-
RUTAHIKO COFFEE is popular with young people in the area. I felt as if I was on the
set of an idol drama, with a coffee shop setting as we waited for our orders.
In between sips of my hand drip Guatemala La Soledad, I spotted a familiar face
on the cover of a book. It was the book COFFEE WITH TIM WENDELBOE. On the
fyleaf was a hand scrawled note commending SARUTAHIKO for serving good cof-
fee, signed off by Tim Wendelboe. It is no mean feat for such a young coffee shop to
be recognised by the winner of 2004 World Barista Championship and 2005 World
Cup Tasters Championship. Do swing by the lively coffee shop to gratify your crav-
ing for good coffee, when you are in the Ebisu area.
Anyway, the coffee geeks in us were so excited by the book that we almost for-
SARUTAHIKO
COFFEE
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
16
experiences, thoughts, and feelings. In the
process of discussing the fner points of
coffee brewing, we understand each other
better.
Come to think of it, what we read does not
really matter, so long as we are together.

What we read does not matter,

so long as we are together.

got to take down taste notes; my coffee had

notes of dark chocolate, with hints of nuts
and tones of sweet berries in its fnishing.
The Perez family has been running the
Finca La Soledad coffee farm since 1895,
with great dedication in progressive farming
practices to achieve the fnest cup quality.
Raul Rodas of Guatemala, had used cof-
fee from Finca La Soledad when he took
frst place in the 2012 World Barista Cham-
pionship.
We spent half an hour delving into Tim
Wendelboes coffee book together, oblivious
to the hustle and bustle around us. Reading
together allows us to tune into each others
SARUTAHIKO
COFFEE
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
17
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19
#03
Do not be surprised if STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY evokes a familiar feel-
ing. Hidden along alleys of Shibuya, the coffee shop is spacious with a lofty ceil-
ing, long communal tables, and grey concrete walls, much like coffee joints from
the West Coast. There are comfortable cushion seats on one side of the shop for
you to plop into, before slurping your coffee. On the other side is an area condu-
cive for working alone: a few bar stools were placed along a long table with ample
power sockets, providing just the right amount of privacy for you to type away on
your laptop.
H
iroshi Sawada was not around when we were there, but the dcor of his shop gave
us a clue about his interests. STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY oozes strong street
culture vibes, from the camoufage patterned espresso machine to customised
grinder emblazoned with stickers, and barista clad in SUPREME beanie.
The art and design magazines adorning the wall are part of an inaugural caf/
magazine installation THE U CAF X STREAMER held in multiple cafs (STREAM-
ER COFFEE HARAJUKU, STREAMER COFFEE SHIBUYA, and LATTEST OMOTE-
SANDO Espresso Bar). A collaboration between Underscore and Hiroshi Sawada, it
brings together independent cafs and magazines to encourage readership within
the caf community. A wall mounted art piece featuring the swirls of Hiroshis signa-
ture triple rosetta latte art across four skateboards, added a fnishing touch.
The counter is designed in such a way that you can witness the entire spectacle of
swirling frothed milk into art, using nothing more than a pitcher. Hiroshi Sawada is
2008 Free Pour Latte Art Champion, the frst Asian to win the accolade with a record
breaking high score. It comes as no surprise that latte art is glorifed at STREAMER
COFFEE COMPANY.
Here, latte art is a well-choreographed sleight of hand where you walk away with a
STREAMER
COFEEE
COMPANY
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
20

If only this
moment lasts forever.

STREAMER
COFFEE
COMPANY
delicious cup of coffee with a rosetta, served
in a bowl sized STREAMER mug.
Beyond just showcasing mercurial
artistry, latte art requires a perfectly extract-
ed shot of espresso and
advanced milk steaming
technique.
Beautiful latte art is
therefore, said to be an
indication of tasty coffee
made with quality espres-
so and properly steamed
milk.
The STREAMER Latte we ordered did not
let us down: it was silky and syrupy with
hints of citrus complementing the delicate
acidity. The STREAMER Blend is roasted
on a 40 year old Probat in small batches,
and delivered everyday to ensure premi-
um quality; they are available for purchase
along with other STREAM-
ER branded merchandise
like T-shirts and mugs near
the counter.
We also spotted Hiroshis
book

In both Japanese and Eng-
lish, the book is packed with great tips for
espresso extraction, milk preparation, and
drawing latte art.
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
21
We left STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY
and headed for our next stop, FUGLEN TO-
KYO. As we held hands and skipped over
the icy sludge, I remembered a saying:
Holding hands is a promise to one another
that, for just a moment, the two of us do not
have to face the world alone.
If only this moment lasts forever.
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23
#04
T
FUGLEN (The Bird) is a caf, vintage showroom, and cocktail bar from Oslo,
Norway. Heralded as one of the best retail concepts in the world by ber-style
bible, Monocle, FUGLEN has opened their frst outpost in Tokyo. Having served
coffee since 1963, the original FUGLEN had two neighbouring rooms painstak-
ing restored by one of Norways experts on mid-century design, Peppe Trulsen.
Bearing the patina of time, FUGLEN has been declared as a cultural heritage site,
preserving a valuable example of Japanese infuence, towards the end wave of
Scandinavian Design in 1950 and 60s.
he Bird landed in Tokyo on May 2012, and coffee lovers have been focking to it.
(You saw the pun coming, didnt you?). Nestled along streets of Tomigaya, the tran-
quil ambience of FUGLEN TOKYO is a stark contrast to the psychedelic madness
of Harajuku. Trulsens curatorial selection of lush wood, retro colours, and mid-
century Norwegian design had been completely transplanted here: we felt like we
had stepped into a Scandinavian familys heirloom home.
During the day, FUGLEN TOKYO serves specialty coffee that spoils you for choice:
espresso-based drinks, Kalita drip, and AeroPress coffee made with beans fown
in from the best roasteries in Oslo Solberg & Hansen, Kaffa, Tim Wendelboe, and
Supreme Roastworks. As the baristas were in the thick of action, our eyes darted
across the quirky treasures.
While most items in a vintage shop are for display only, FUGLEN TOKYO doubles
as a living showroom. Everything here is for sale, from the chair you are sitting to
the lamp on the wall. The carefully selected objects are staged (and used) as in real
life, making it easy for you to visualise how it would ft your home.
I ordered Tim Wendelboes Colombia Finca Tamana made with the AeroPress. Tim
Wendelboe started working with Elias Roa in early 2012 to produce Finca Tama-
FUGLEN
TOKYO
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
24

The polychromatic
cacophony welcoming
us was oddly
endearing.

FUGLEN
TOKYO
na. It was their biggest project with a single
farmer, and the progress made in the 4 days
when they were there in June 2012, was re-
markable.
The result was a very juicy
cup with snappy acidity: we
tasted bright citrus favours
of mandarin orange as well
as berries with sweet linger-
ing fnish of caramel. The
nostalgic ardour emanating
from the vintage pastiche
dilated time, cajoling us to
savour every sip of coffee.

We lounged around in the lazy afternoon,
leafng through Monocle magazine, and
came across the book Coffee With Tim
Wendelboe again. This time, Tim proudly
signed off with a congratulatory message
for a fellow compatriots Tokyo venture.
In a few hours, FUGLEN
TOKYO would transform
into a cocktail bar serving
traditional cocktails as well
as unorthodox concoctions
conjured by Linie Award
2011 Champion Bartender
Halvor Digernes, and his
protg Yumi Sato. Before
leaving, we spoke to the af-
fable barista who was keen
to enlighten us about AeroPress techniques.
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
25
While we were reluctant to leave the nos-
talgic enclave, the polychromatic cacoph-
ony welcoming us was oddly endearing. A
palpable air of excitement pulsated, as we
wondered what else await in our quest for
great coffee.
00
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
LATTEST
OMOTESANDO
ESPRESSO BAR
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
27
#05
You will be struck by a strong sense of dj vu, even before stepping into LAT-
TEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar, located in Ura-Omotesando. The latte art
signage outside bears a striking resemblance to STREAMER COFFEE COM-
PANY. In fact, LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar is planned and executed
with Hiroshi Sawadas consultancy. This explains why the place is embellished
with Sawadas industrial chic style, from concrete fnishing to wooden furniture
with industrial metal accents.
B
efore you think it is just a twin of STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY, this is where the
similarities end: STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY screams cool street hype, LAT-
TEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar is a laudation of wholesome girl power. Ran by
a girls-only crew of baristas, LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar is a refreshing
change in a male-dominated industry.
Needless to say, the bevy of barista beauties is immensely popular with male cus-
tomers. We observed at least 3 customers who drank their coffee standing at the
counter, chatting up baristas despite plenty of seats available. Shizuka Nakayama
and Asami Ito have been spearheading operations for the past year, after complet-
ing rigorous training under Sawadas close supervision. Beyond just having killer
looks, they can whip up potent drinks like LATTEST and Triple Shot Latte.
Available only in-shop, LATTEST is made by adding espresso shot to cold milk;
Sawada jokingly used ramen as a metaphor to describe how espresso foated on
top of milk like oil atop soup.
We gave the Triple Shot Latte a miss, as we would be heading for more coffee at
identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY later. Our LATTEST was served in a small Espres-
so Parts glass, and we could see dark swirls of espresso emulsifying with the pale
LATTEST
OMOTESANDO
ESPRESSO BAR
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
28

We fnally understand
why LATTEST is
unavailable for take-out.

milk gradually. My girlfriend took a sip and

nodded her head in relish: the espressos
richness complemented milky sweetness
wonderfully.
The warm, dense espres-
so juxtaposed with cold,
light milk to create a highly
textured sensation. Subse-
quently, the taste and tex-
ture became more subdued
as the espresso wore out.
We fnally understand
why LATTEST is unavail-
able for take-out and come in such small
serving. A take-out would inevitably end up
as a fat, murky mix; it is hard to sustain the
initial delightful sensation throughout a large
glass, and you would fnd the drink becom-
ing bland. Hats off to Hiroshi Sawada and
team for the meticulous planning.
LATTEST OMOTESANDO
Espresso Bar is active in
collaborative events such
as regular Run & Yoga ses-
sions. You can try out New
Balance shoes for a run and
unwind with yoga at the
shop after that.
The spacious interior is
designed to accommodate pop-up stores
and art exhibitions; the long, unusually high
table makes an excellent centerpiece dis-
LATTEST
OMOTESANDO
ESPRESSO BAR
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
29
play for merchandise and artworks.
All it takes is a good DJ and you can throw
a fne party here. Girls just want to have fun
and when they do, so will the boys.
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COFFEE TRAIL
31
#06
IDENTITY
COFFEEBAR+GALLERY
Intelligentsia Coffee is one of the Big Three of Third Wave Coffee, together with
Stumptown Coffee Roasters and Counter Culture Coffee. As one of the pioneers
of direct trade, they are on a constant pursuit for truly exceptional coffees, and
work closely with farmers. Around since 1995, Intelligentsia now has 7 bars 4
in Chicago, 3 in Los Angeles and a lab in New York. identity COFFEEBAR +
GALLERY is the frst in Japan to carry Intelligentsias branding, serving a wide
range of single origin hand drip coffee, and espresso drinks with a choice of two
blends.
I
dentity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY went to great lengths to uphold their exacting
standards. The barista received comprehensive training in Chicago, where solid
emphasis was placed on making great coffee at high volume, fostering culture of
excellence, and creating loyal customers. (He did an exceptional job of creating
loyal customers, but more on that later).
Located in Harajuku, identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY is designed by the team
behind Intelligentsia Venice Coffeebars interior. What sets identity COFFEEBAR +
GALLERY apart from Intelligentsias coffeebars, is the art gallery currently exhibiting
Gregg Fleishmans Sculpt Chair as well as artworks by Sonja Smith and Jeff Smith.
We found the shop at the end of a side alley after weaving through a labyrinth.
Peering through the foor to ceiling windows from afar, we halted our steps in hesi-
tation. Behind the counter stood a suave barista who could easily pass off as an
assassin from an art-house flm, with his steely eyes, wavy locks and goatee beard.
Lined with whimsical sculpture chairs and intricate pottery, it felt like the shop was
owned by a cadre of art experts who entertain sophisticated connoisseurs only; the
cooler than thou ambience of the place was daunting for coffee novices like us.
My eyes darted across the menu anxiously, and I decided on Kenya Karatina
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
32

Astonishment broke the

bewildered pause
between us.

IDENTITY
COFFEEBAR+GALLERY
Peaberry hot coffee. The barista (we learnt,
later, from Cafe & Restaurant magazine that
his name is Abe) informed us it was unavail-
able and apologised profusely.
Abe quickly recommend-
ed Kenya Kangocho and
other fruity coffee. I was
impressed that he man-
aged to size up my prefer-
ence so quickly despite the
language barrier.
After settling for the or-
ganic Bolivia Anjilanaka
(ahn-hee-lah-nah-ka) and Cappuccino, we
waited on Gregg Fleishmans Sculpt Chairs.
The plywood furniture with playful geomet-
ric structure makes an excellent conversa-
tional piece. Eye-catching use of negative
space imparts a sense of lightness: despite
its precariously fragile appearance, the
stress tested Sculpt Chairs can withstand
body weight resiliently.
While we were waiting,
Abe surprised us with two
cups of Santuario Gei-
sha Colombia ice coffee
brewed with Chemex. He
apologised humbly (again)
though it was probably
my fault for mixing up the
menu. The Santuario Gei-
sha Colombia teased with a vivacious acid-
ity, and had a refreshing jasmine aroma.
The complexity of berry-like favours with
mandarin undertone is a testament to its
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
33
We chatted with the owner, Mr. Matsumo-
to, who kindly shared about Intelligentsias
tireless dedication to quality and his aspira-
tions for identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY.
Mr. Matsumoto envisions a platform provid-
ing impetus for baristas, artists, coffee af-
conados to interact and inspire new ideas,
through public cupping, workshops, and
other activities in the pipeline.
It was almost closing time; Abe was busy
rinsing a paper flter on the Hario V60. As
we got up to return the cups before leaving,
he asked if we had a bit of time.
He was in the midst of preparing compli-
mentary cups of Kenya Kangocho.
Flabbergasted by his gratuitous act, I
muttered my thanks. I was lost in thoughts
while savouring the full-bodied, zesty citrus
favour of the coffee. In an age where inter-
personal relationships have become tenu-
ous, the warmth of Abes earnest gesture is
touching.
Such gratuitous act of incredible service is
a testament to passion; passionate people
embrace work, friends, and above all, life,
whole-heartedly. Perhaps that is why they
say coffee drinkers make better lovers.
Before leaving, I requested to take a pho-
to of the shop. They gladly obliged before
lineage. While savouring the Geishas clean,
sweet fnish, I could not help but marvel at
the incredibly outstanding Japanese ser-
vice; the display of knowledge, devotion,
pride, and mindfulness, reminded me of
Mahatma Gandhis words.



The Bolivia Anjilanaka jolted me out of my
contemplative stupor with its delectable
juicy notes: melon, peach, and pear, with
a soft hint of spice fnishing in nutty choc-
olate. In between sips of my coffee, I ap-
proached Abe to get the spelling right for
my taste notes.
He thoughtfully offered an Intelligentsia
packaging for me to bring home; all infor-
mation I needed was on the label. Planet
Propaganda did a superb job with the red
foil packaging design: high gloss varnish
and typography treatment commanded high
dignity for a veritable coffee brand.
00
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
TOKYO
COFFEE TRAIL
34
IDENTITY
COFFEEBAR+GALLERY
scuttling away to take cover; my girlfriend
and I burst into guffaws at their shyness.
We went back
A week later, we wanted to buy a V60, and
fresh beans for some home brew action.
Needless to say, we went back to identity
COFFEEBAR + GALLERY.
We stepped in with hearty greetings of
Konnichiwa from Abe and his lady col-
league, Yuko. Abe introduced new roasts
that just arrived; we eventually settled
on Amigos De Buesaco Colombia. Yuko
packed our purchase into a paper bag while
Abe preheated the V60.
This time he wanted to treat us cups of
hot Santuario Geisha Colombia (we had it
served cold, brewed with Chemex, during
our frst visit). We chatted as he steadily
coaxed favours from the grounds, and re-
ceived valuable pointers from him.
Abe kindly gave us spare paper flters with-
out asking if we needed any. Again, we were
impressed by his thoughtful initiative. There
was no attempt to up-sell flters or carafes;
service was delivered with pure empathy.
As we got up to collect our purchase, Abe
and Yuko gave us an Intelligentsia V60 brew
guide for reference. He said the values indi-
cated had changed and took the trouble to
correct them for us.
On the train back, my girlfriend shot me a
puzzled look: there was something else in
the paper bag.
It was a bag of Zirikana Rwanda beans.
Astonishment broke the bewildered pause
between us, as we realised what Abe did:
he slipped in another bag of beans as a gift
without telling us. We were left speechless
by yet another act of wonderful service. My
lips pursed to suppress the rush of ambiva-
lence: surprise, disconcert, gratitude, and
respect.
I believe this is a unique trait of the Japa-
nese culture. Japanese do not verbalise ev-
erything: they make an effort to understand
others feelings without asking directly. This
is why most people are polite and consider-
ate in Japan.
My girlfriend explained that Abes selfess
act exemplifes Omotenashi. Loosely trans-
lated, it is an ancient philosophy of having
selfess desire to take care of others (To-
kyo Weekender: Spirit of Omotenashi).
The word Omotenashi in Japanese
comes from omote (surface) and nashi
(less), which means single-hearted, and
also mote (carry) and nashi (accomplish),
00
TOKYO
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35
meaning, to achieve. Therefore, Omote-
nashi has two meanings, which include of-
fering a service without expectation of any
returned favour, and the ability to actualise
that idea into an action. Omotenashi has a
similar meaning to hospitality in English, but
it suggests a deeper part of the human con-
sciousness (WAttention: Omotenashi The
Heart of Japanese Hospitality).
No wonder identity COFFEEBAR + GAL-
LERY remains a beautiful memory of our To-
kyo Coffee Trail, one that we look back fond-
ly, with gratitude and respect.
We Went Back. Again.
A week before I left Tokyo, we went back
to pick up more beans and bid farewell: the
Omotenashi experience at identity COFFEE-
BAR + GALLERY had turned us into devoted
customers.
Coffee is a compelling moment of senso-
ry awakening: that is why we crave for the
experience ever so often. A great barista
is a friend, craftsman, and purveyor of this
gratifying experience. Thanks for the unfor-
gettable experience, identity COFFEEBAR +
GALLERY. We will be back.
Hopefully soon.
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37
#07
T
If you had stumbled upon OMOTESANDO KOFFEE by chance, thank your
lucky stars for that moment of serendipity. The shop sits quaintly in a 60 year-old
abode, shrouded by unkempt foliage. With an inconspicuous signpost leading to
a forlorn courtyard, it is hard to imagine this as a place to get your caffeine fx. Do
not be fooled by its ramshackle appearance, though. The coffee kiosk was slated to
be there for only a year, after which the building would be demolished. The land-
lords reversed their decision for a good reason: OMOTESANDO KOFFEE has
amassed much acclaim from specialty coffee fans in Tokyo.
he hardwood foor creaked as we gingerly slid the Fusuma door aside. A barista
counter nestles within a cuboid steel structure standing in the middle of the room.
The interior is a harmonious juxtapose of contemporary design and traditional struc-
ture, with square as a recurring theme.
The signpost outside forms a square frame; the letter O in KOFFEE is replaced
by a square. The Kashi snack is cube-like; merchandise display is labelled with
clear acrylic cubes. Even the barista counter within the cuboid steel structure is
divided into squares. There must be some sort of esoteric purpose for the squares
and cubes, I thought, nudging my girlfriend to probe further.
When asked, owner barista Eiichi Kunitomo broke into a toothy grin and ex-
plained that square represents a kiosk. Coffee is also spelled with a K for the same
reason. In the logo, K is designed with an underdot for emphasis. K is also the
frst letter of his surname Kunitomo.
I asked Kunitomo why many places, including Singapore, were stated on the
website. A look of shyness fitted across his face: he said that OMOTESANDO KOF-
FEE is a pop-up kiosk, and he dreams of opening in these places. The beauty of
OMOTESANDO KOFFEE lies in the execution of its pop-up kiosk concept.
OMOTESANDO
KOFFEE
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38

One that celebrates

the impermanence
of life.

The steel structure can easily be taken

apart and reassembled as the shop pops
up. The bare frame can be customised to
blend in with any location they move to.
Pop-up stores are nothing new, but none are
as intrinsically executed as
OMOTESANDO KOFFEE.
The steel frame and
brand identity are concep-
tualised by Eding:Post,
bringing to life Kunitomos
concept of transience: one
that celebrates the imper-
manence of life, reminding
us to focus on living in the now.
Eiichi Kunitomo is no stranger to tran-
sience, having honed his barista skills in
Osaka and Italy, before settling in Tokyo
as a barista/coffee consultant. Armed with
an intimate knowledge of coffee, he has
helped in setting up many successful cafes
like Bread, Espresso &. and Monocle Caf.
Impressed by OMOTE-
SANDO KOFFEE, Mon-
ocles editor Tyler Brl
entrusted Kunitomo to
oversee the coffee and
sweets menu for its frst
ever caf in Tokyo.
One sip of OMOTESAN-
DO KOFFEE black coffee and I understand
why. It is one of the best blends we came
across in our Tokyo Coffee Trail: a crisp cup
of mellow sweetness topped with foral aro-
OMOTESANDO
KOFFEE
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39
cheeks, gently caressed by the whispering
wind. I wish moments like this last forever.
They say nothing lasts forever but for-
ever does exist. Forever is made up of
many Nows: that is why we should live in
the moment of now. My grasp on her hand
tightened as we walked, determined to cel-
ebrate the impermanence of life by cherish-
ing Now. And Forever.
matics and a smooth dark chocolate fnish.
The favour changed with each sip as coffee
cooled to reveal exotic earthy undertones.
Based on Kunitomos own recipe, the
blend of beans from Brazil, Ethiopia, El Sal-
vador, and Indonesia, is roasted in Kyoto by
the famous Ogawa.
The baked custard snack (kashi) is also
a favourite among customers. Served in a
brown Kalita paper flter, the carefully craft-
ed pastry resembles a cube shaped French
canel. Beneath the thick, caramelised
crust, lies a moist and fragrant custard that
makes a tantalising combination with iced
Mocha.
A delightful tango between the baked
custard and bittersweet mocha sauce ac-
centuated each others favours, leaving you
craving for more. No wonder many custom-
ers come by specially for the snack.
Kunitomo gently reminded us to watch
out for the low beam, before we stepped
out. The gravel crunched as I turned and
cast a wistful glance. There is something ir-
resistible with the rustic charm, and I hope
OMOTESANDO KOFFEE would still be here
when I come back to Tokyo.

I turned back to my girlfriend, and caught
a glimpse of dark locks falling across her
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41
#08
L
We made our way to BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK one chilly morn-
ing, guided by my girlfriends Google map app. Many specialty coffee shops in
Tokyo thrive in obscure crannies like hidden gems, but this time we had it easy.
We spotted it round a corner, near a red post box in a serene Sendagaya neigh-
bourhood.
ike OMOTESANDO KOFFEE, it is a coffee kiosk, with just enough standing space
for 4 persons. When we reached there, some people were lingering outside, chatting
over coffee in hand. A staff was standing near them, rubbing his palms for warmth
occasionally. Casually clad in a baseball cap with an apron over his shirt and jeans,
he peeped at the shop eagerly.
The staff was probably stranded outside, waiting for a chance to get back into the
packed shop, I thought. He probably knew too well to interrupt the sanctity of caf-
feine rituals taking place in the shop: the frst cup of coffee is often deeply pleasur-
able, leaving you quivering with frisson in the splendour of its aroma. We stood by
the door, and waited for someone to leave before we could get in.
BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK is started by Masahiro Kajiwara, a for-
mer editor of lifestyle magazine, Relax. He received training at Voila Coffee in Ka-
goshima before starting his own coffee kiosk. Thanks to Kajiwaras background, BE
A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK pampers you with a choice of 2 to 3 single
origin beans from Voila Coffee everyday.
A warm buzz pervaded the air in the shop as polite nods and humble smiles punc-
tuated the breezy ambience. You can tell that a relationship has formed over the
BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR
COFFEE KIOSK
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42

There is no
raucous poke-in-the-
rib chatter from the
baristas.

BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR
COFFEE KIOSK
counter when the barista greets some cus-
tomers with a knowing Usual?.
Exchange with a barista is brief but fos-
tered over time, it can warm
you even before your hot
coffee is served. Warm,
fuzzy moments like these
do wonders to melt away
the tenuous decorum of life.
True to their namesake,
BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR
COFFEE KIOSK has per-
fected the art of being good
neighbours. Service is thoughtful and per-
sonal, leaving you with a warm, affection-
ate feel. There is no raucous poke-in-the-rib
chatter from the baristas: you get to indulge
in a peaceful moment with your coffee, a
much-needed oasis in the hectic grind of
daily life.
Soon, a couple of custom-
ers left and the staff strand-
ed outside came back in. It
was only then we realised
that he is none other than
Masahiro Kajiwara.
He chose not to interrupt
customers and got strand-
ed outside, shivering in the
cold. Being a good neigh-
bour is about thinking for other people, and
contributing small deeds to make a differ-
ence in someones life.
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43
The word neighbour has nothing to do
with proximity. The question we should
ask is not Who is my neighbour?, but To
whom can I be a neighbour? Your neigh-
bours are your family, your friends, and your
next-door-neighbours. A neighbour can
also be someone you come across during
your day, who needs compassion. (Credit:
Heartlight)
It is the little things that can make ones
day great: from Kajiwaras thoughtfulness to
the ball of rope used a doorstop, preventing
the door from slamming. How lucky to have
a neighbour like them.
I ordered El Salvador Finca San Antonio,
brewed with the original BE A GOOD NEIGH-
BOR COFFEE KIOSK dripper. It turned out
to be perfect for a refreshing morning. El Sal-
vador Finca San Antonio had a light mouth
feel that became syrupy as it cooled, with
fruity notes of berries and orange that fn-
ished with a clean, honeyed aftertaste. The
latte Sonia ordered was well-balanced, with
a velvety base that carried into a subdued
sweet fnish.
We checked out the menu and realised
price-wise, BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COF-
FEE KIOSK offered great value for money.
Cost of living in Tokyo is high, but specialty
coffee here cost lesser than what we pay for
in Singapore; this is, undoubtedly, another
generous gesture from a good neighbour.
Residents near TOKYO SKYTREE will be
happy to know that BE A GOOD NEIGH-
BOR COFFEE KIOSK has opened another
outlet there. If you happen to be in Asakusa,
do show some neighbourly love and drop
by for coffee.
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45
#09
CAFE LEGS
#3
Sitting in a discreet corner beside Ron Herman Sendagaya RH Cafe, the third
iteration of Caf Legs, Cafe Legs #3, resembles a coffee stand by the beach, with
its shed-like appearance and surfng vibes. Artist Alexis Ross, along with owner of
LA motorcycle shop Choke, Jeff Johnson, are the men behind Caf Legs, a roving
pop-up espresso bar. The inspiration for Caf Legs comes from Caf con pier-
nas, the Chilean coffee bars where you are served by scantily clad waitresses.
E
quipped with a vintage FAEMA E61, Cafe Legs #3 offers espresso-based drinks.
The FAEMA E61, directly imported from Italy, is a semi-automatic machine that is
highly customised and requires careful maintenance.
We ordered macchiato and espresso, deftly prepared by the ambidextrous Matsu-
shita Daisuke. With a basket 3 times as big as a normal one, the espresso was thick,
creamy and very winey. With a bright acidity, the frst sip of the espresso lifted the
palate, and mellowed just before it starts to overwhelm.
JWTs Ann Mack presented Embracing Analog at SXSW 2013. The resurgence of
interest in analogue things is a countertrend in this digital era. There is something
immensely comforting in collecting things from the past such as vinyl records and
flm cameras. People are fond of the past, because they believe it is better than the
present.
I do not know if the espresso shot pulled from FAEMA E61 is better, but subse-
quent sips reminded me of a strong red wine. Wheelers Yard in Singapore also
serves coffee made with FAEMA E61. Try it and let me know.
TOKYO
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46
CAFE LEGS
#3
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#10
The word artisanal may be used tritely, but there is something endearing about
the handcrafted chocolates Honey Coffee 15351 offers. An Italian-style caf-res-
taurantwine bar located in the peaceful Nakameguro neighbourhood, it is the
frst Honey Coffee in Tokyo, the other being in Fukuoka.
oney Coffee 15351s owner Asahi used to be a sommelier and ptissier in Italy, be-
fore he headed back to Japan and honed his craft at Fukuoka Honey Coffee. That
explains the comforting waft pervading the cafe, as we waited for our coffee orders.
The logo has a tongue-in-cheek treatment: 1530051 is the district code, and the
double zeroes are cleverly replaced by outlines of two coffee beans.
Fresh cacao beans from Colombia, North Sierra Nevada are roasted in-house,
with nothing but sugar, using traditional methods from Mexico and Italy to bring
out intense favours. Wrapped like candies, the chocolates we tried are from Arhu-
wacos, Finca St. Rafael, and Tumaco.
The combination of rich cacao and crisp orange zest made the chocolate from
Arhuwacos a delectable taste experience. The chocolate from Finca St. Rafael has
a winey acidity that complemented the chocolate, while the one from Tumaco has a
lime-like tartness that accentuated the smoothness of cacao.
We spotted the book A-Z Coffee by Norwegian illustrator, Lars K Huse and graphic
designer, Harald J. Vyle, on the fridge. We asked to browse it and the reticent Asahi
became chatty. Harald had dropped by Honey Coffee 15351, and gave Asahi a copy
of the book. Presented as a visual glossary containing defnitions, with explanations
HONEY COFFEE
15351
H
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50

Enjoying a tender
moment with my girl-
friend, we shared
nibbles.

HONEY COFFEE
15351
and cross-references to other specialty cof-
fee related information, the book picked up
a prestigious award for rets Vakreste Bk-
er 2013 (this years most beautiful book).
My French-pressed Hon-
duras El Capucal arrived
after 5 minutes; it had a
round mouthfeel, subdued
citric acidity and a clean
fnish.
Enjoying a tender mo-
ment with my girlfriend,
we shared nibbles of the
sample chocolates. Teas-
ing banter and endearing moments of ev-
eryday life are rare, as we are in a long
distance relationship. If only I can capture
them, I thought. Then again, such moments
are precious because they are destined to
be lost.
Like these moments, arti-
san skills are lost in a world
of mass-produced con-
sumerism. We are not just
losing folkloric handcrafted
products, but a language of
material, provenance and
making.
Every one of us is losing
something precious to us.
Lost opportunities, lost possibilities, feel-
ings we can never get back again. Thats
TOKYO
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51
part of what it means to be alive.
- Haruki Murakami, Kafka on the Shore
I fnally understand what he meant.
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#11
53
Situated among the slew of indie fashion boutiques in Daikanyama, THE COF-
FEESHOP is a selection shop that offers 8 types of single origin beans from Nozy
Coffee, The Five Beans, and other roasters, prepared using the French Press,
Hario V60, Kone flter and AeroPress. Espresso based drinks are unavailable
here: the idea is that anyone can have good coffee anywhere, even at home.
T
he bean list offers a selection of coffee carefully curated by Tomoyuki Murasawa.
Born in 1984, the young man has a burning passion for all things coffee. Murasawa
amassed many fans, afcionados and professionals alike, with his assiduous posts
on coffee berries, new paraphernalia, and brewing techniques.
There is a sign that says No Sugar, But Sweet outside the shop. Somehow it
reminds of us: a long distance relationship may not get closer by meet-ups but it is
sweetened by thoughts. Besides, nothing beats the frisson of warm, unsullied nu-
ances caressing the palate on chilly mornings.
Murasawa is a digerati and his profound embrace of technology is evident at THE
COFFEESHOP. There is a wall-mounted iPad loaded with a photobooth app for tak-
ing selfes and uploading to social media on the fy, making up for the lack of seats
with social atmosphere. The iPad point-of-purchase system allows you to choose
beans according to their distinct favours, and submit your orders in guided naviga-
tion.
THE COFFEESHOPs brand identity is inspired by ber cool design and technol-
ogy bible Monocle. With a minimal type palette, it is imbued with a touch of humour
using cartoons.
THE
COFFEESHOP
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54
THE
COFFEESHOP

THE COFFEESHOP is
the perfect
amalgamation of print
and digital media.

Our curative coffee orders arrived short-

ly. El Salvador San Isidro is good for a lazy
morning refreshment: sweet with a syrupy
mouthfeel, balanced acidity and a lingering
chocolatey aftertaste.
Honduras Orland Arita
was full-bodied with tones
of mandarin orange, which
cooled to reveal red cherry
sweetness, making it the
perfect wintry indulgence.
I was lost in thoughts
as we toyed with the print
brochure and iPad apps
between sips. THE COFFEESHOP is the
perfect amalgamation of print and digital
media.
Third wave coffee may be in its nascent
stages, but new blood like Tomoyuki Mu-
rasawa and SARUTAHIKO COFFEE injects
a fresh impetus to Tokyos
specialty coffee scene.
I have no doubt new de-
velopments in Japans cof-
fee industry will be incred-
ibly exciting.

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55
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#12
O
wner Hussein Ahmed was not around but his wife, Maiko, who tended the shop, was
very helpful. Hussein purchases beans direct from farmers, and processes them at
his own mills. The coffee cherries grow on mountain ranges of varying heights, re-
sulting in different bean characteristics. The cherries are dried and processed tradi-
tionally to preserve the distinct gamey favour.
Mocha Coffee is keen in promoting Middle-Eastern culture to Japanese. The con-
ventional Yemeni way to drink coffee is by boiling, which gives it a gritty taste. To
adapt it for Japanese palates, coffee is prepared using the pourover method to cap-
ture crisp favours of coffee beans. Handmade Middle-Eastern snacks such as fg
mamool (dates cookies) and baklava (almond pie) are also available to top off your
coffee with an unforgettable fnish.
Coffee came served in quaint, vintage china cups. Yemen has a unique coffee
culture, and it shows in the favor profles. Mocha Mt. Somarah was a full-bodied
profusion of herbaceous, fruity notes, winey favours, and bucolic sweetness with
a gentle acidity. Mocha Ismaili was light bodied, with deep fruity notes and a bright
acidity. One of the highest grown coffees at over 2000 metres, Ismaili is one of the
most prized coffee in Yemen.
Yemen was a dominant exporter of coffee in the ffteenth century, especially to
areas around Arabian Peninsula. The word Mocha has nothing to do with choc-
olate: it is the port of Al-Mokha in Yemen, through which coffee was exported.
Mocha Coffee is the only place in Tokyo that serves Yemeni coffee, so it is a must-
try for coffee buffs. The verdant patio in Daikanyama is perfect for a laid-back
afternoon with friends; it also offers a pocket of solitude, impervious to the met-
ropolitan hustle.
MOCHA
COFFEE
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58

With people like

Mocha Coffee around, good
coffee is handed down for
generations to enjoy.

It is heartening to know our generation is

doing a part in preserving heritage. Preserv-
ing our traditions is a heavy responsibility
that requires stewardship as well as adapta-
tion of practices, so that the next generation
can promptly accept and foster a cultural
identity.
It is even more comforting to know that,
with people like Mocha Coffee around, good
coffee is handed down for generations to
enjoy.
MOCHA
COFFEE
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59
00
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#13
F
eted with plaudits for his uncanny ability to differentiate coffee origins just by cup-
ping, Tanaka spent 2 decades in New York City. He was an advertising executive
with an agency and later, an account manager for FedEx. Tanaka fell in love with
espresso in Buenos Aires, when he worked on a commercial with Diego Maradona.
Tanaka experienced the cusp of Third Wave Coffee in U.S. and became a familiar
fgure when Gimme! Coffee opened. He received comprehensive training at Counter
Culture, where he worked with other specialty coffee luminaries. In 2009, Tanaka
uprooted himself from an established career, and embarked on a coffee odyssey:
he came back to Tokyo and started Bear Pond Espresso.
There is no fancy signage, but Tanakas red Kawasaki motorbike is a tell-tale sign
that we arrived at the right place. A big sign saying Closed was on display. We
vacillated outside when my girlfriend lurched, and slid the door open abruptly; I
stepped in with bated breath. Apparently they were open for business; we ordered
Dirty and Flower Child.
The no photography policy and dolorous strains (there was an ukelele class be-
ing conducted) plunged me into silent depths of rumination. Tanaka prepared our
orders in utter concentration, albeit with an insouciant demeanour.
Being too early, we went traipsing along sleepy alleys, and soaking in the pleas-
ant lassitude of Shimokitazawa on a sunny morning. Bear Pond Espresso may
draw hordes of coffee cognoscenti clamouring, but the ostensibly abhorrent rules
made us jittery. Espresso is not available after 2pm. Strictly no photography is
allowed in the shop. Only owner Katsuyuki Tanaka is allowed to make espresso.
That is because only Tanaka is permitted to use the B.P.E. Original Technique,
which he perfected after ruthless experimentation.
BEAR POND
ESPRESSO
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62

Served in a mason jar,

the frst sip of Dirty left
me toe-tapping
exultant.

Served in a mason jar, the frst sip of Dirty

left me toe-tapping exultant. Dirty is a vis-
ceral treat consisting of 2 layers: espresso
and cold milk. The frst layer is 80% espres-
so, 20% milk and the second layer, 80%
milk, 20% espresso.
As the viscous espres-
so shot suffused with
cold milk, favour shifted
from bold chocolatey to a
smooth sweetness gradu-
ally. I ruefully relinquished
the cup from my clutches,
and exchanged it for my
girlfriends Flower Child.
Bear Pond Espressos shot was delightful-
ly syrupy, with a harmonious blend of spicy
and salty notes, yielding to dark chocolate
sweetness.
We fnished our drinks all too soon and
glanced around the shop.
We spotted a Chemex
413Project workshop post-
er and asked about it.
413Project is based in
Massachusetts, and pro-
motes the legendary Che-
mex. Workshops led by the
worlds top roasters and
baristas including Katsuyu-
ki Tanaka drive this collaborative effort.
BEAR POND
ESPRESSO
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63
kitschy fads, the Shokunin persists on his
philosophy.
Tanakas obsessive pursuit of coffee ex-
cellence with felicity, is something one can
only envy. Is the no photography policy a
spiel? Cameras snapping away are a tad ir-
ritating, when you are trying hard to focus.
Truculent service? My encounter with Tana-
ka says otherwise.
Tanaka informed us apologetically that
there were no more vacancies; he would
try his best to ft us in if people cancelled
their appointments. He made the effort to
ask when I was leaving Tokyo, and told us to
swing by the following week if possible, to
fnd out whether vacancies were available.
Second Visit
This time, we ordered the Red Eye and Cap-
puccino. Also known as a Shot in the Dark,
Red Eye is made of espresso and a French
Pressed single origin coffee. Red Eye was
refreshing, fnishing with a subtle hue of
spice; the Cappuccino was smooth, with
spicy notes cutting through sweetness of
the milk.
Tanaka pointed to his meticulous scrib-
bles, explaining that the coffee was roasted
a day earlier, and it was sharp but foral. He
even remembered our names, and regretful-
ly told us vacancies were unavailable due to
overwhelming response. We bought a copy
of his book Bear Pond Espresso, which he
carefully signed off with a message: Break
away from conventional thinking. The mes-
sage turns out to be a ftting aphorism after
my stroke.
I fnd Tanaka to be disarmingly humble.
His esoteric temperament is easily misun-
derstood. To me, he embodies the anar-
chic Shokunin spirit: with scant regard for
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#14
65
Little Nap COFFEE STAND sits in a corner populated by Tokyos creative com-
munity near Yoyogi Park, sequestered from the urban frenzy. The caf emanates
an unfettered, laid-back charm. It is a tranquil place where you can commune
with others or enjoy time out alone; where people of different backgrounds have
serendipitous encounters, spurring new collaborative visions. A caffeine joint
that congregates people in the neighbourhood, Little Nap COFFEE STAND also
has another outlet at Vacant in Harajuku.
wner Daisuke Hamada harked back to his coffee roots and opened Little Nap COF-
FEE STAND in Feb 2011. Although Hamada can deftly hand brew coffee, he is also
familiar with the intricacies of espresso machines. With pertinent technical aptitude
as part of his repertory, Hamada can tune-up his shiny Synesso machine himself.
Being an avid music lover, Hamada also organises music events such as Little Nap
MUSIC STAND.
The blend of the day made with beans from Brazil and Ethiopia, was silky with
nutty notes, bolstered by a lilting citric acidity. Sonias latte was velvety, with a mel-
low acidity and milk that coaxed sweetness out of the beans. Ice-cream and bever-
ages for children were also available on the menu.
Far beyond a stimulating beverage, coffee is a social lubricant. Coffee time can be
a social experience or personal indulgence; a coffee shop has become the center
of urban sociability and Little Nap COFFEE STAND is just that. Strike up a chat with
genial Hamada as an effusive welcome, or simply to know the latest happenings
around town.
LITTLE NAP
COFFEE STAND
O
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66
I darted a surreptitious glance at Sonia, si-
lently sighing with contentment: happiness
is a cup of coffee with her.
We put aside the empty cups, and contin-
ued sauntering with our hands clasped.

Happiness
is a cup of coffee
with her.

LITTLE NAP
COFFEE STAND
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#15
After leaving Bear Pond Espresso, we wandered around Shimokitazawa and ex-
plored the shops; that is how we found BALLON DESSAI. BALLON DESSAI
means trial balloon in French. The idea is that customers come, and hopefully,
they can fnd what they are searching from a hot-air balloon vantage point. It is
clear latte art is the main draw: pictures of latte art are displayed prominently.
BALLON DESSAI
LATTE & ART
T
here is a feeting beauty about latte art. It is a temporary masterpiece that is lost
forever when you take your frst sip. Like latte art, memories are ephemeral. Photo
taking is a way to capture and preserve memories you treasure.
Photos of latte art are ubiquitous in social media channels, with the proliferation
of smartphones. Instead of just free pour rosetta, heart or tulip, etching techniques
are used to create exquisite designs. Here, you hear exasperated gasps of kawaii
before a photo snapping frenzy begins.
Opened in June 2012, BALLON DESSAI aspires to be an art gallery cum caf
that provides a platform for art-lovers to interact. Works by up-and-coming artists
bedecked walls of the small caf. The melding of art and coffee is apt, as latte art is
also an artistic expression, albeit on a different canvas.
A trial balloon is a project or policy put forward experimentally to gauge reactions.
BALLON DESSAI is just that. It gives art-lovers a preview, providing a test bed for
artists. Susumu Fujimiya is the amiable barista, and he cuts a familiar fgure. We
have seen him compete at Japan Latte Art Championship. He warmly welcomed us,
introducing the blend and single origin coffee available on 2 hoppers.
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Sometimes you will never know

the value of something, until it
becomes a memory.

BALLON DESSAI
LATTE & ART
Workshops and seminars are open for
signups. Mastering latte art is an utterly
complex affair: it is both a science and art
where many technical as well as aesthetic
skills are required. We ordered two lattes,
and were too enraptured by the art that we
forgot to take down taste notes!
Sometimes you will never know the value
of something, until it becomes a memory.
- Dr. Seuss
Over the years, I began to appreciate times
when moments turn into memories. Like
latte art, our Tokyo Coffee Trail will soon be-
come nothing but an evocative memory, I
thought, stepping out with a knowing smile.
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#16
Located along a road in the halcyon Setagaya neighbourhood, Nozy Coffee is
named after Masataka Nojos moniker Nozy. Born in 1987, Masataka surprised
industry veterans by starting Nozy Coffee while he was still in university. They have
since expanded, and even supplied beans to a number of specialty coffee joints,
including THE COFFEESHOP and SARUTAHIKO COFFEE.
NOZY
COFFEE
A
stute use of space is evident here. In the basement is a retail counter and roastery;
on the frst foor is standing space for drinking and public cupping. Loft seats by
the window create a snug space where you can enjoy solace or intimate chats. The
elevated loft seating lends a breezy feel despite space constraint.
Brewed coffee is served in Bodum French Presses. A French Press allows oils
to infuse, and you can taste the beans in their purest form. The beans Nozy Cof-
fee offers are on the fruity side a testament to light roasting. Until recently, dark
espresso roast is favoured: the shots are gloriously chocolatey and have a rich
crema. Lately, the trend is to embrace lighter roasts where fruit acids emerge; a light
roast can cajole subtle nuances out of the beans. After all, roasting brings out the
aroma and favour locked inside green coffee beans. Releasing them so that they
can tease your palate is the key.
Pourover coffee or hand drip coffee, is a manual technique that uses a fltered cof-
fee dripper, and is all the rage these days. Before you decry pourover as a snobbish
gimmick, there really is a remarkable difference in taste. Light roasted beans make
excellent flter coffee, as aromas are released and there is more clarity in favours.
We ordered Dominica Don Jimenez and Honduras El Comun. The staff thoughtful-
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NOZY
COFFEE

Life is a shared
learning journey, and
we can grow together,
not apart.

ly gave us small cups, so we could sample

each others coffee.
Dominica Don Jimenez had a light body,
bright notes of cherry tomato, becoming
syrupy as it cooled with
apricot favour and a car-
amelly fnish. Honduras
El Comun had a round,
smooth mouthfeel, sweet-
ness of cherries and syrupy
malic notes of apple.
Impressed with the luxu-
riant fruity notes, I bought
Brazil Fazenda Pe Da Serra
for brewing on a V60 back in Singapore.
Education is of utmost importance for
specialty coffee, whether one is honing his
morning ritual or pursuing a career in the
industry.
Nozy Coffee emphasises
education. Green coffee
beans are displayed with
roasted ones to encourage
visual learning; public cup-
ping sessions are organised
so that you learn the char-
acteristics of different vari-
etals.
In an increasingly frag-
mented world where we are constantly in-
undated with information, a caf has the
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depth of knowledge that can make coffee
time an enjoyable learning experience. In
this regard, Nozy Coffee delivers truly holis-
tic experiential learning.
While sipping Sonias coffee, I feel fortu-
nate to have a girlfriend sharing the same
passion. Life is a shared learning journey,
and we can grow together, not apart. True
love is never apart, maybe in distance, but
not in heart.
00
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#17
CAFE
OBSCURA
We walked through the drizzle on a wintry morning in a placid Sangenjaya neigh-
bourhood. Cafe Obscura is a highlight of our Tokyo Coffee Trail, as it is the only
cafe offering siphon coffee. In fact, Cafe Obscura offers only siphon coffee; siphon
or syphon coffee is a brewing method using a vacuum pot.
I
t involves steeping coffee with boiling water ascended from a fask to the extraction,
and fltering of coffee into a clear receptacle. In Japanese siphon coffee methods,
coffee is stirred twice using a bamboo spatula, letting water permeate the ground
coffee evenly. This allows complete degassing.
Siphons make wonderful coffee, because they release a rich gamut of favors in an
exceptionally clean brew. The barista brought out a chalkboard menu and explained
the different bean favours available. With 7 single origins and 2 blends, we were
spoiled for choice. We ordered a Nicaragua single origin and the Mandheling. She
allowed us to watch and take pictures, while she churned out our orders.
The counter is designed to showcase the siphon process. The barista turned into
a tinkering alchemist in a chemistry experiment; all she lacked was a stern labora-
tory coat. There is something magical about watching an indulgent treat appearing
before your eyes gradually. A palpable sense of anticipation swelled, as we ob-
served the incipient concoction develop.
The coffee from Nicaragua was intensely fruity, with a bright acidity and lingering
fnish. The Mandheling was a complex coffee that exhibited smoky earthy notes,
gentle acidity, fnishing with dark chocolate relish.
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was all right, though. There are storms in
life, and we cannot always bask in sun-
shine; let us walk in the rain together.

We cannot always bask in sunshine; let us walk in

the rain together.

CAFE
OBSCURA
If a house without books is like the body
without soul, Cafe Obscura is a soulful
place. Books by Frank Gehry, Ryan Mc-
Ginley and Anish Kapoor lined the shelves.
Books and coffee make perfect compan-
ions for a caf fanatic; nothing is more plea-
surable than your favourite coffee, a good
book, and the afternoon to enjoy both.
They have another outpost, Cafe Obscura
Laboratory a coffee stand and roastery, 15
minutes walk away, where espresso-based
drinks are available. We bought beans from
Tanzania; with a high city or French roast,
it was easily the darkest roast in our Tokyo
Coffee Trail.
The sky was still drizzling when we left. It
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#18
A
mameria Espresso has a comprehensive menu that includes Gibraltar and Flat
White. Single origin hot coffee is also available; you can choose the beans and
brewing methods, mainly, Kono hand drip, French Press, and AeroPress. Certifed
cupping judge Toshiaki Ishii opened Amameria Espresso in 2010, after spending 7
years honing his craft in another cafe. There, he made 300 to 400 cups of coffee
everyday (up to 1000), and insisted having latte art on every possible cup.
Although tea is austerely steeped in Japanese culture, Ishii had a head-start in
the coffee industry as his parents ran a kissaten. Fiercely dedicated, he bought a
roaster to learn the fner aspects of roasting for another 3 years. It comes as no
wonder that there is a humongous roaster in the cafe, which will certainly tantalise
customers during roasting.
Initially, Amameria Espresso started out as a roastery. It turned out to be so well-
received by the community that Ishii switched to a cafe business model. Elderly
residents resting and enjoying the house blend, is a common sight. Families fre-
quent Amameria Espresso as it is child-friendly, with juice and cocoa on the menu.
We ordered a Flat White and hand dripped Guatemala Las Mercedes. The Flat
White has a lavishly smooth texture, rounding off with a sweet fnish. The Guatemala
Located on the ground foor of a residential apartment in Musashi-Koyama,
Amameria Espresso combines industrial chic and country aesthetics, using raw
concrete replete with exposed brickwork. That is not the only melding: Amame-
ria Espresso is an amalgamation of the words mame (bean in Japanese) and
cafeteria.
AMAMERIA
ESPRESSO
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We should not be sad though, because
every day apart is one day closer to being
together again.

We should not be sad though,

because every day apart is one day
closer to being together again.

AMAMERIA
ESPRESSO
Las Mercedes is a Cup of Excellence 2012
entry, with foral aromatics and sweet notes.
With a juicy mouthfeel, it nearly turned me
into a slobbery mess, before fnishing in a
lingering coconut aftertaste.
After sating our caffeine cravings, we am-
bled along the cavernous shopping arcade
nearby. Far beyond warm hospitality and
impeccable service, our Tokyo Coffee Trail
engendered indelible memories of our time
together.
As my footsteps reverberated their last ca-
dence, a tinge of melancholy grew gently:
my Tokyo trip had come to an end. It is time
for us to part again.
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85
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I
collapsed during a football game in March 2013 (on my girlfriends birthday, no less).
My heart stopped beating, causing blood to pool and formed a clot, resulting in a
stroke. It is a Pons (part of the brain stem) stroke.
I have no intention of becoming a protagonist mired in the throes of a crippling
stroke, but let me explain. I am in a long distance relationship with my girlfriend,
Sonia (she is based in Tokyo; I live in Singapore). In early 2013, we met up again
and went on a Tokyo Coffee Trail. We traversed the metropolis for one month in our
pursuit for good coffee (more time was spent cavorting along aisles of Don Quijote
but that is beside the point).
Many things were left unfnished after the stroke: Tokyo Coffee Trail was one of
them. I wrote only 8 cafes (out of 18) before it happened. This book is an evocative
memento of our caffeine shenanigans in Tokyo and I am bent on fnishing it.
Much has changed in Tokyos specialty coffee scene, and this book can only serve
as a general guide.
In the meantime, enjoy your coffee!
AFTERWORD
www.CoffeeDrinkersMakeBetterLovers.wordpress.com
Every love story is beautiful
but ours is my favourite.