Ann Taylor

Ann Taylor Loft

Ann Taylor Factory
Stores


Construction Guidelines

JACKETS

Lined


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 2 November 2009

TABLE of CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 4
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 4
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET: .................................................................................................................................... 4
STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27) ........................................................................................................ 4
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES ......................................................................................................................................................... 5
Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................. 5
Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece: ................................................................................................................................................. 7
Taping for Floating Canvas with Felt on Canvas Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................. 8
Fusible with Fused Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................................................................. 9
Taping for Fused Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................................. 10
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS: ..................................................................................................... 11
General Seams: ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 11
Panel Seam (with ease at bust area) .................................................................................................................................................. 11
Shoulder Seam ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 12
Princess Seam Round Shape / Angled ............................................................................................................................................... 12
Sleeve Ease: .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 13
Armhole ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 13
Collar (Banana Stand Top & Under Collar); 2 Pc Under Collar ................................................................................................................ 14
Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); with Faux Stand Stitch ....................................................................................................... 15
Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); No Faux Stand Stitch ......................................................................................................... 15
Lapel / Collar & Neck Join Seam ........................................................................................................................................................... 16
Edge Seams: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 16
LEATHER SEAMING ................................................................................................................................................................................. 17
Lockstitch Glued Open Press ............................................................................................................................................................. 17
Lockstitch Glued Pressed Closed ....................................................................................................................................................... 17
SWEEP VENT CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM: ............................................................................................................................................. 18
2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT ........................................................................................................................................................ 19
SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: ....................................................................................................................................... 20
SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: .............................................................................................................................................. 21
BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: ............................................................................................................... 22
ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH ................................................................................................................................. 22
EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES: .......................................................................................................................... 23
LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: ........................................................................................................................................................ 23
LINING FINISHING:................................................................................................................................................................................... 24
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 3 November 2009
LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARERS LEFT FRONT: ............................................................................................................................... 24
BUTTON SETTING .................................................................................................................................................................................... 25
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 26
STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52) ................................................................................................................. 28
DARTS: ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 28
COLLAR OPTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................................. 29
Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam) ............................................................. 29
Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch) ............................................................ 30
Collars with Full Stand: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 31
Collar w/ Full Stand................................................................................................................................................................................ 32
Mandarin Collar ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 32
FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS: .................................................................................................................................................... 33
KISSING CLOSURES: ............................................................................................................................................................................... 36
SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER: .................................................................................................................................................................... 37
WELT POCKETS: ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 38
CHEST POCKET: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 39
BESOM POCKETS: ................................................................................................................................................................................... 40
VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ................................................................................................................................ 41
VERTICAL ONSEAM POCKET: ............................................................................................................................................................. 42
PATCH POCKETS: .................................................................................................................................................................................... 43
POCKET FLAP WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ......................................................................................................................................... 44
POCKET FLAP Patch pocket: ............................................................................................................................................................. 44
PLEATS: .................................................................................................................................................................................................... 45
BINDING & PIPING FINISHES: ................................................................................................................................................................. 46
BUTTONHOLES: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 46
ZIPPER FRONT CLOSURES: .................................................................................................................................................................... 47
ZIPPER TERMS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 48
OTHER CLOSURES: ................................................................................................................................................................................. 49
BELT LOOPS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 50
DECORATIVE STITCHES: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 51
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 4 November 2009
LINED JACKET
INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology
and components.
These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Loft and
Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products.
The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.

NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:

SHADES:
All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal):
Plaid is to match around garment.
Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.
Sleeve is to match front at pitch point.
Top Collar Center Back to match body on vertical pattern, where practical.
Front Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal patterns (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package).
Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement.
One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be A/B marker.
Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package.
NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET:
1 1/2 Front Overlap (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package).
2-Piece Sleeve (with or without Sleeve Vent; See Spec Package). NOTE: 1-Piece Sleeve only when style specific per Spec Package.
Fully lined, closed bottom. NOTE: Body lining to have darts corresponding to body shell.
Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch

STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27)

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 5 November 2009
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES
Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores Jackets & Coats.
This standard may be applied to Loft jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis.
All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance.
Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut on straight grain.
Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece:

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 6 November 2009

Set Canvas Chest Piece to Front Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front



Note: Set Canvas Chest Piece after Front is fused. Note: Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front after Front is fused.

Anchor Chest Piece at
Shoulder w/ Stay Tape
Anchor Chest Piece to Front
(Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched
or Double Fuse Tape)
Anchor Chest Piece
Anchor Chest Piece at
Atmhole (stitch in
seam allowance)
Cut Canvas
on Semi-bias

Anchor Chest Piece at
Shoulder w/ Stay Tape
Anchor Chest Piece to Front
(Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched
or Double Fuse Tape)
Felt Applied to Canvas Chest Piece
Cut Felt 3/8"
smaller than canvas
Cut Felt piece to finish
1" down from Shoulder
FELT
Set Felt to Canvas at
center of Chest Piece
Remove Felt seam
allowance at Armhole
(2" down from Shoulder)
Anchor Chest Piece at
Armhole (stitch in
seam allowance)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 7 November 2009
TAPING GUIDELINES
Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft.
Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.

Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece:

CMW 2004
TP 3000
TP 6000
K 771
V 901
* Charcoal
available
Front Shoulder
Armhole Tape
Back Neck Tape
ANN TAYLOR
TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS
(with Canvas)
Front Edge,
Bridle

Canvas Floating
Chest Piece
KUFNER PCC
Set Tape 1" down from
shoulder seam
Set w/ Twill
Tape on seam
line
Pocket Backing
ii2610
V 401
* Charcoal
available
Set Twill Tape
w/ 1" - 1 1/2"
space at base of
armhole seam
allowance
B901
* Black
available
V901T-B27
* Black
available
3170
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural.
For other colors, use corresponding
Reference #for same quality.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 8 November 2009
TAPING GUIDELINES
Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores.
Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.

Taping for Floating Canvas with Felt on Canvas Chest Piece:

CMW 2004
TP 3000
TP 6000
K 771
V 901
* Charcoal
available
Front Shoulder
Armhole Tape
Back Neck Tape
ANN TAYLOR
TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS
(with "Felt on Canvas" Chest Piece)
Front Edge,
Bridle

Canvas Floating
Chest Piece
KUFNER PCC
Set Tape 1" down from
shoulder seam
Set w/ Twill
Tape on seam
line
Pocket Backing
ii2610
V 401
* Charcoal
available
Set Twill Tape
w/ 1 1/4" space
at base of
armhole seam
allowance
B901
* Black
available
V901T-B27
* Black
available
3170
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural.
For other colors, use corresponding
Reference #for same quality.
Felt Chest Piece V251
FELT
FELT
LOCATION
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 9 November 2009
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES
Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for LOFT and Ann Taylor Factory Stores Jackets & Coats.
This standard may be applied to Ann Taylor Stores jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis.
All Interlining, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance.
Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut on straight grain.

Fusible with Fused Chest Piece:

ANN TAYLOR INTERLINING STANDARDS (no Canvas)
KUFNER
Lt.
PCC
Med.
KUFNER
Med.
V401
* Charcoal
available
B101
* Charcoal
available
Weight
Facings, Top Collar &
Stand, Back Shoulder,
Pocket, Flap, Hems
Front & SideBody
Under Collar
Chest
ii2610
ii1020
V401
* Charcoal
available
R861
* Charcoal
available
Fused Chest Piece
Front
Fusible to finish
above hemline
PCC
Lt.
ii2610
ii1061
Back
Fusible to finish
above hemline
Front Facing
Top
Sleeve
CB
Under
Sleeve
Side Panel
Under Collar
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use
corresponding Reference #for same quality.
Add extra pc at
curved edge for
stable as needed.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 10 November 2009
TAPING GUIDELINES
Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft.
Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.

Taping for Fused Chest Piece:

Set w/ Twill
Tape on seam
line
ANN TAYLOR
TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS
(no Canvas)
Set Twill Tape
w/ 1 1/4" space
at base of
armhole seam
allowance
Set Tape 1" down from
shoulder seam
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural.
For other colors, use corresponding
Reference #for same quality.
B901
* Black
available
Front Shoulder CMW 2004
Pocket Backing
V 401
* Charcoal
available
ii2610
Front Edge,
Bridle
Armhole Tape,
Back Neck Tape
V901T-B27
* Charcoal
available
TP 3000
V 901
* Charcoal
available
KUFNER
TP 6000
PCC

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 11 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS:


Description
Seam
Allowance

Seam Type & Finish


General Seams:
SIDES / PANELS
CENTER BACK
SLEEVE PANELS & SLEEVE
VENT

See Spec Pkg. for:
Princess seam requirements.
Topstitched seam
requirements.

1/2
A1-0b Lockstitch; Raw Edge; Open Press
Lockstitch
(underside)
Raw Edge
Lockstitch
(topside)
Open Press
Lockstitch

Open Press

(NOTE:
If Topstitched,
press to one
side of seam.
See Spec Pkg.)

Panel Seam (with ease at
bust area)

1/2 Panel
seam

NOTE: 3/8
- Princess
seam
Ease
(Match Notch)
(Match Notch)
(Match Notch)
A1-12 Princess Seam Ease
Ease Front Princess:
1) Pre-stitch front princess between
notches with shirring stitch.
2) J oin seam.



Lockstitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 12 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:


Description
Seam
Allowance

Seam Type & Finish


Shoulder Seam

1/2

Front
Back
Ease at Back Shoulder
between notches
(Match
Notches)
1. Pre-stitch back shoulder between notches w/ shirring stitch.
2. Back Shoulder must be eased into Front Shoulder.
* Do not stretch Front Shoulder.
A1-13 Shoulder Seam (w/ ease)



Lockstitch

Open Press


Princess Seam Round
Shape / Angled


3/8

A1-14a Princess-Round Shape
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
* Pressed seam
allowance open
Or
* Press toward
topstitching
Inside of Garment
* Ease front panel at curve
* Align front & side
panel notches
* Clip shaped curve as needed
for smooth curve finish.
Inside of
Garment
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
* Press seam
allowance open
Or
* Press toward
topstitching
Clip to 1/8"
from corner
A1-15a Princess; Angled/Seams
Notch at
corner
* If needed


Lockstitch

Open press
OR press
toward
Topstitching

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 13 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:

Description
Seam
Allowance

Seam Type & Finish


Sleeve Ease:

NOTE: Ease stitch 1/16 1/8
from seam line

3/8

A1-16 Sleeve Cap Ease
Ease Cap
Back
Sleeve Cap
* Ease Sleeve Cap evenly
* Sleeve Cap & Armhole notches aligned



Ease /
Basting Stitch
(except with
auto-sleeve
set machine)

Armhole

Standard Armhole pressing
Open press at top of Armhole
(unless indicated otherwise in
Spec Pkg.)

3/8
A1-17a Jacket Armhole Seam -
Inside of Sleeve
Shoulder Seam
Press open at top
of Armhole
Press toward sleeve
(1 1/2" each side
of shoulder seam)
Press Open at Top

A1-17b Jacket Armhole Seam -
Inside of Sleeve
Shoulder
Seam
Press toward
sleeve all around.
Press toward Sleeve
Lockstitch


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 14 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:




Description
Seam
Allowance

Seam Type & Finish


Collar (Banana Stand Top &
Under Collar); 2 Pc Under
Collar


See Spec Pkg.:
Collar sketch represents
construction only (not for collar
/ stand shape).
Banana Stand seam with or
without edgestitch.
Collar edge with or without
topstitching.




1/2
Center Back
Seam


1/4 Stand
Join Seam


1/4
Outer Edge


Outsideof Under Collar
Outsideof TopCollar
BiasCut
Back Stitch
Insideof Top Collar
Insideof Under Collar
J2-7a Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand
w/ Edgestitch at Stand seam
OpenPress +Edgestitch
Outsideof Under Collar
Outsideof Top Collar
Bias Cut
Back Stitch
Insideof Top Collar
Insideof Under Collar
Open Press
J2-7b Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand
No Edgestitch at Stand




Lockstitch
Open Press
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 15 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:


Description
Seam
Allowance

Seam Type & Finish


Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc
Under Collar); with Faux
Stand Stitch


See Spec Pkg.:
Collar sketch represents
construction only (not for collar
/ stand shape).
Collar edge with or without
topstitching.



1/2
Center Back
Seam


1/4 Outer
Edge









Open Press
OutsideView
"Faux" Stand Stitch
(Under Collar only)
J2-3a Collar - w/o Collar Stand; 2-Pieced Under Collar
(w/faux stand stitch line)
InsideView
Back Stitch to 1"
fromCollar Point
w/ or w/o Topstitch;
Seespecification pkg
Bias Cut
Under Collar
Under Collar
Top Collar - OutsideView

Lockstitch

Open Press
Center Back
seam

Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc
Under Collar); No Faux
Stand Stitch


See Spec Pkg.:
Collar sketch represents
construction only (not for collar
/ stand shape).
Collar edge with or without
topstitching.

1/2
Center Back
Seam


1/4 Outer
Edge
w/ or w/o Topstitch;
Seespecification pkg
Top Collar - OutsideView
J2-3b Collar - w/o Stand; 2-Piece Under Collar
(no faux stand stitch)
OutsideView
InsideView
Under Collar
Under Collar
Back Stitch to 1"
fromCollar Point
Bias Cut
Open Press
Lockstitch

Open Press
Center Back
seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 16 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:

Description
Seam
Allowance

Seam Type & Finish


Lapel / Collar & Neck Join
Seam


See Spec Pkg.:
Construction applies to Collars
w/ and w/o Banana stand.
Collar edge with or without
topstitching.

1/4
* Attach inside Top Collar to Under Collar along Neck
seam allowance to point 1" forward of Shoulder Seam
Inside Body
& Top Collar
Open Press
Open Press
Inside Body
& Under Collar
J3 Neck Facing / Join Seam - Inside View
Open Press
Open Press
J acket Collar-Facing/Neck Seam
(Note: sketch references neck construction, not collar type/shape)
Lockstitch

Open Press


Edge Seams:
Collar Edge
Lapel Edge
Front Edge
Pocket seams


1/4
Lockstitch
Raw Edge
A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)
Lockstitch
Lockstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 17 November 2009
LEATHER SEAMING

Lockstitch Glued Open Press Lockstitch Glued Pressed Closed
A1-25 Lockstitch; Open Press & Glued
Raw Edge
Lockstitch
join seam
Open Press
and
Glued
Seam Details

Lockstitch

Pressed Open
& glued

3/8 to 1/ 2
seam allowance
(depending on
seam location)


Lockstitch
join seam
Raw Edge
A1-26 Lockstitch;
Press to one side
and Glued


Seam Details

Lockstitch

Pressed to one
side & glued

3/8 to 1/ 2
seam allowance
(depending on
seam location)


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 18 November 2009
SWEEP VENT CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM:

S
e
a
m
Vent Edge
Interlining
to finish
above hemline
Hemline
Wearer's Left Back
A13-a Sweep Vent
Seam allowance
Shaped & Tapered
to hold Vent
Inner Construction

Interlining
Seam
Line
Clean Finish
Wearer's Right Wearer's Left
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m
Seam
Line
A13-b Sweep Inner Construction
(Under Extension)






Blocked Hem
Lining w/ 1/2"
Curtain Pleat
Backstitch
L
i
n
i
n
g

S
e
a
m
Waist
A13-c Sweep Vent Finished - Inside of Lining

V
e
n
t

E
d
g
e
Outside View
C
t
r

B
a
c
k

S
e
a
m
Topstitch
A13-9 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked Hem
Topstitched (at top of Vent)
V
e
n
t

E
d
g
e
Outside View
Top of Vent
(no topstitch)
C
t
r

B
a
c
k

S
e
a
m
A13-10 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked Hem
No Topstitch (at top of Vent)


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 19 November 2009
2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT
NOTE: Not all styles have Sleeve Vent. See Spec Package:

Under Sleeve
Top Sleeve
Fusible
Do not
trim Self
Mitered Seam line
Vent fold line
Sleeve Hem line
Interlining
to finish
above
Sleeve Hemline
Fusible
Sleeve Hem line
J5-1a Sleeve Vent - Fusible Inside/Pattern
Interlining
to finish
above
Sleeve Hemline
Notch when
required
Mitered Facing
J5-1b Sleeve Hem view w/o Lining
Vent Sewn
Inside Wearer's Left Sleeve


Mitered
Facing
NOTE: Sleeve Hem corner
seam allowance is not trimed
(for sleeve length alteration)
J5-1c Vent - Mitered Seam
Non-Functional
Buttonhole
Vent stitch line
Sleeve Seam
(before Lining set)
Lining
J5-1d Inside View -
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Wearer's Left Sleeve
Mitered
Facing
Wearer's Left Sleeve - Seamed Vent
J5-1e Sleeve Vent - Finished
Vent Open Edge
(See spec pkg
for Vent Ht.)
* See Spec Pkg for
Button / Buttonhole
Detail
Front Sleeve

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 20 November 2009

SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS:
Shoulder Pad & Sleeve Head quality and shape as per Ann Taylor Stores / LOFT standards set by Technical Design.
Shoulder Pad Placement from seam as indicated on Sloper or Spec Pkg.
Sleeve Head required for all jackets with Shoulder Pads unless otherwise specified in Spec Package.



Set With Lockstitch Along Armhole Seam: Set With Hand-Tack At Armhole: Sleeve Head Setting:
Inside of Front
Thread
Tack
J8-1a Shoulder Pad Setting -
w/ Thread Tack
Thread
Tack
Shoulder Pad
Thread
Tack
Thread Tack
to the shoulder
seamallowance
*See Spec Pkg
for Shoulder Pad
Placement from
SeamEdge.
J8-1b Shoulder Pad Setting -
w/Lockstitch
Shoulder Pad
Set 1 1/4"
fromend
of Pad
Inside of Front
Basting Lockstitch;
Stitch over
Armhole seam
Thread Tack
to the shoulder
seamallowance
Set 1 1/4"
fromend
of Pad
*See Spec Pkg
for Shoulder Pad
Placement from
SeamEdge.
J8-2 Sleeve Head Setting
Inside of Side Panel
Inside of Front
I
n
s
i
d
e

o
f

S
l
e
e
v
e
Shoulder Seam
Inside of Back
Sleeve Head


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 21 November 2009
SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT:
Attachment method applies to Shoulder Pads set with Lockstitch or with Thread-tack.


Attached With Lining Strip: Attached With Thread tack:
S
h
o
u
l
d
e
r

P
a
d
Shoulder Pad
Inside of Side Panel
Inside of Front Shell
LINING STRIP
Thread Tack
Inside of
Facing
Inside of
Lining
Inside of
Sleeve Lining
Inside of Lining
* Double Layer (1/2" x 1")
* Attach at Natural Side Seam
J8-3a Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder
w/Lining Strip
*Double Layer
*1/2" x 1/2"
*See Spec Pkg for
Shoulder Pad
Placement from
Seam Edge.
Lining Strip
Inside of Front Shell
Inside of Side Panel
Inside of Lining
J8-3b Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder
w/ Thread Tack & Lining Strip
S
h
o
u
l
d
e
r

P
a
d
Inside of
Sleeve Lining
Shoulder Pad
Thread Tack
Inside of
Lining
Inside of
Facing
LINING STRIP
* Double Layer (1/2" x 1")
* Attach at Natural Side Seam
*See Spec Pkg for
Shoulder Pad
Placement from
Seam Edge.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 22 November 2009
BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK:

NOTE: Back Facing eliminated only when confirmed for exception cases and indicated with sketch in Spec Package.

Lining Center Back Seam -


A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat

CB
Seam
Taper pleat to
0" at waist
KnifePleat
J9-1a Lining CB Seam Pleat -
Neck Seam
Facing
w/ Back Neck Facing
* Pleat opening at
Facing seam
* 1/2" deep
* Press to wearer's right
Taper pleat to
0" at waist
Knife Pleat
Seam
CB
Seam
J9-1b Lining CB Seam Pleat -
No Back Neck Facing
CB
Seam
* Pleat opening 2"
down fromNeck seam
* 1/2" deep
* Press to wearer's right

ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH

EXCEPTIONS: Hem with attached facing Topstitched Hem
J9-3a Front Hem/Facing Envelope Finish
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Prior to Facing / Lining
seamed at Hem.
Shell
Facing Lining
Cross-Section
w/ Lining attached
Hem Finish
w/ Curtain Pleat
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 23 November 2009
EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES:

Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Topstitched

Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
J9-3b Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing
Cross-Section
w/ Lining attached
Inside of
Lining
Inside of HemFacing
Inside of
Body
Facing
Backstitch
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
J9-3c Front Facing Finish w/ Front & Hem Topstitched
Facing Lining
Cross-Section
w/ Lining attached
Topstitch
* See Spec Pkg.
Open Press
Seam
Allowance


LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH:
J4-2a Lapel/ Front Edge Finish
Front Facing
Backstitch
Backstitch
Under Lapel
Lining
Front
Facing
2" up from
Top Buttonhole
1" below
Top Buttonhole
Note: Front edge may not
have "backstitch" when
front edge is topstitched.

J4-2b Jacket Attached Facing
Backstitch
InsideView
Front Edge
Seam
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing
Note: Front edgemay not
have"backstitch" when
front edgeis topstitched.


Backstitch
J4-2c Jacket Attached Facing
Note: Front edge may not
have "backstitch" when
front edge is topstitched.
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
Front Edge
Seam
InsideView
Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 24 November 2009
LINING FINISHING:
Front
Lining
Front
Facing
Facing
Back
Lining
InsideGarment
Internal Tack
Internal Tack 1/2" Curtain Pleat
Internal Tack
CloseLining at
* Front panel seam
* Wearer's Left Sleeve
J9-4a Lining Finishing w/ 2-Piece Sleeve
Front
Lining
Front
Facing
Facing
Back
Lining
InsideGarment
Internal Tack
Internal Tack
1/2" CurtainPleat
Internal Tack
Close Lining
at wearer's
Left Sleeve
J9-4b Lining Finishing w/ 1-Piece Sleeve
Blindstitch
SleeveHem
NOTE: If blindstitch will damagefabric, use2 pcs of
FusibleTapew/ Blindstitch in between tapelayers

LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARERS LEFT FRONT:
NOTE: Inside Pocket is not standard for all styles. See Spec Pkg.
J9-2 Lining Chest Pocket
Facing
Lining
Inner View
Facing
Lining
Fusible
Inside Wearer's Left Front
BesomPocket -
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Placement
Basteclosed
w/ 1/2" open
at each end

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 25 November 2009
BUTTON SETTING
Set buttons with Locking stitch.
Setting Placement: 2-Hole Button set with 2 holes aligned with Buttonhole. 4-Hole Button with parallel stitch, unless otherwise specified.
Logo buttons to be set with Logo in same direction.
Buttons with self-shank do not require Thread Shank.
Double Breasted Inside Button Type 2-Hole: Flat (no rim); DTM.
Leather and Suede - Stay button for all functional buttons.

Front Closure Button Setting:
Thread Shank
w/ Wrap
J10-1a Button Setting - Parallel Stitch
* Parallel Stitch
* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
w/ Functional Buttonholes

w/ Functional Buttonholes
J10-1b Button Setting - "X" Stitch
* "X" Stitch
* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
Thread Shank
w/ Wrap

w/ Functional Buttonholes
J10-1c Button Setting - "X" Stitch
* "X" Stitch
* ThreadShank w/ Wrap
* "X" Stitch

Sleeve Vents W/Non-Functional Button Setting:
J10-2a Sleeve Vent Button Setting
w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes -
Parallel Stitch
Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent
* Parallel Stitch
* Button set through
Shell layers only.
(Not set to Lining)
* See Spec Pkg for
Button / Buttonholes
Placement
F
r
o
n
t

V
i
e
w
* "X" Stitch
* Button set through
Shell layers only.
(Not set to Lining)
F
r
o
n
t

V
i
e
w
J10-2b Sleeve Vent Button Setting
w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes -
"X" Stitch
* See Spec Pkg for
Button / Buttonholes
Placement
Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 26 November 2009
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING
HANDTACKING

Step 1
To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or
yarn


Step 2
Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial
knot.

Step 3
Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn
Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to .

Step 4
Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from
initial knot on self fabric.

Step 5
Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes
through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more
than long.

Step 6
After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the
needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing in the same
manner as step 1 and step 2.
MACHINE TACKING
1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only lockstitch buttonhole machine can be used for Ann
Taylor product.
2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure
3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.

BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION
HAND TACKING
1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout
2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point.
3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position.
4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than is not acceptable.
5. For beading spacing longer than or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads.
Initial Knot
Initial Knot Initial Knot
Rosette/embellishment
Self Fabric
Ending Knot
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 27 November 2009
TACKING FINISH:
Note: NO X Tack used if fabric surface will be damaged by tack.

Back Sweep Vent X Tack Slit X Tack
A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack for Shipping
Lining
Outside Garment
"X" Tack for Shipping
S
e
a
m
V
e
n
t

E
d
g
e
L
i
n
i
n
g
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
"X" Tack
for Shipping
A14-15 Slit-"X" Tack


Peaked Lapel
J10-5 Peaked Lapel w/ Tack
Whip Tack
(See Spec Pkg for
tack placement)

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 28 November 2009
STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52)

DARTS:
Stitch dart
from
Top
to
Bottom
A2-1 Waist Dart Open End -
Sewing Direction
w/ Pocket
Stitch dart
from
Top
to
Bottom
w/o Pocket
*Note: Do Not Stretch Dart
When Sewing
A2-1a Jacket Waist Dart -
Single Point (Front / Back)
Press Dart
Open
A2-2a Jacket Waist Dart -
Double Points (Front / Back)
Press Dart
toward
Center Frt
A2-3a Jacket Bust Dart
Press Dart
toward
Hem


A2-4 French Dart
Press Dart
toward
Hem
A2-5 Lapel Dart -
Straight Dart
Press Dart
Open

A2-6 Lapel Dart -
Shaped
Press Dart
Open
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 29 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS:
NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. See specification package.

Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam)
J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar
Edgestitch at Stand seam
Under Collar
Bias Cut
Top Collar
Open Press
Open Press
+Edgestitch
Inside View


J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar
Edgestitch at Stand seam
Bias Cut
Under Collar
Top Collar
Outside View
Edgestitch
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch;
See specification pkg
J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar
No Topstitch at Stand seam
Inside View
Under Collar
Top Collar
Open Press;
No Edgestitch
Bias Cut
Open Press


J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar
No Topstitch at Stand seam
Under Collar Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch;
See specification pkg
Top Collar
Outside View

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 30 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS (continued):
NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. See specification package.

Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch)
Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1"
fromCollar Point
Top Collar - Inside
Open Press
+Edgestitch
Top Collar - Outside
Under Collar - Outside
w/ or w/o Topstitch;
Seespecification pkg
J2-2a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar
w/ Topstitch

Back Stitch to 1"
fromCollar Point
Bias Cut
w/ or w/o Topstitch;
Seespecification pkg
Open Press;
No Edgestitch
J2-2b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar
No Topstitch
Top Collar - Inside
Top Collar - Outside
Under Collar - Outside
"Faux" Stand Stitch -
(Under Collar only)
Bias Cut
J2-4a Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar
(w/faux stand stitch line)
Under Collar
Top Collar - Outside View
Outside View
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch;
See specification pkg

Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Bias Cut
J2-4b Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar
(w/ No faux stand stitch line)
Outside View
Under Collar
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch;
See specification pkg
Top Collar - Outside View

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 31 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS (continued):
NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. See specification package.

Collars with Full Stand:
Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1"
from Collar Point
Open Press
+Edgestitch
Press toward Stand
+Edgestitch
J2-5a Collar w/ Full Stand; Open Press Top Collar/Stand w/ Edgestitch
Bias Cut
Top Collar
Under Collar
Edgestitch
Outside View
Edgestitch on
stand
Inside View
Top Collar
Under Collar
Bias Cut
Press toward Stand:
No Topstitch
Back Stitch to 1"
from Collar Point
J2-5b Collar w/ Full Stand; No Topstitch at Stand seam
Press toward Stand:
No Topstitch
Inside View
Bias Cut
Outside View
Top Collar
Under Collar
Top Collar
Under Collar

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 32 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS (continued):
NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. See specification package.

Collar w/ Full Stand
Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1"
from Collar Point
Top Collar
J2-5c Collar w/ Full Stand; Edgestitch / Topstitch Stand Seam
Press toward Stand
Press toward Stand
Edgestitch OR Topstitch
* See Spec Pkg
Bias Cut
Outside View
Under Collar
Inside View
Top Collar
Under Collar
Edgestitch OR Topstitch
* See Spec Pkg


Mandarin Collar
J2-6 Stand Collar/ Mandarin Collar
Top Collar
Inside Collar
Back Stitch
(if no Topstitch)
(with or without Topstitch)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 33 November 2009
FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS:

J4-1a 1-Piece Facing -
Shaped to Shoulder
Lining

J4-1b Pieced Lapel & Facing
Lining
Front
Facing
Pieced
Front
Pieced
Facing

J4-1c "Split" Facing
Lining
Split Facing
Seam
Front
Facing
Front
Lapel Dart


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 34 November 2009
HIDDEN PLACKETS:

J4-3a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched
Outside View
Wearer's Right
Inside View
Wearer's Right
Facing
Topstitch
Button Separator
Inner Tack
Finshed View
Topstitch
Wearer's Right Facing Wearer's Right Front - Body
Button Separator/
Inner Tack between
Buttonholes
Lining
Attach Inner Layers (seeSpec Pkg):
A) Topstitched Button Separator
or
B) Interior tack
(Note: Machineor Hand Tacked)
Interior
Tack
J4-3b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched
Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Lining or Fabric layer

J4-4a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch
Finished
Wearer's Right - Body
Finished
Wearer's Right Facing
Button Separator
Inner Tack
Finished View
Inner Layers
Attached w/
Blindstich
Blindstitch
Wearer's Right Facing
Wearer's Right Front - Body
Button Separator /
Inner Tack between
Buttonholes
Lining
Attach Inner Layers (seeSpec Pkg):
A) Topstitched Button Separator
or
B) Interior tack
(Note: Machineor Hand Tacked)
Interior
Tack
Interior Construction
Blindstitch
J4-4b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch
Lining or Fabric layer
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 35 November 2009
HIDDEN PLACKETS (continued):

J4-5a Hidden Placket-Attached; set w/ Crackstitch
Finished
Wearer's Right - Body
Finished
Wearer's Right Facing
Button Separator
Inner Tack
* Attached Placket
* Set to Facing w/
Crackstitch
Lining
InsideView -
Crackstitch
*Note: Placket may haveTopstitch
Seespec pkg.
Finished View
Wearer's
Right Facing
Button Separator/
Inner Tack between
Buttonholes
Lining or Fabric layer
Attach Inner Layers (seeSpec Pkg):
A) Attached Button Separator
or
B) Interior tack
(Note: Machineor Hand Tacked)
Interior
Tack
J4-5b Hidden Placket-Attached; Crackstitch
Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Wearer's Right
Front - Body

InsideView
Weaerer's Right
OutsideView
Wearer'sLeft
Interlining
OutsideView
Wearer'sRight
Wearer'sRight
Wearer'sLeft
J4-6 Top Applied Placket
Bottomof Placket
J4-7 Mock Hidden Placket
OutsideView
Wearer'sRight
Step1 Step2
Finished
OutsideView
Wearer'sLeft
Bottomof Placket
Wearer'sRight - Step1
Wearer'sLeft
Wearer'sRight - Step2

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 36 November 2009
KISSING CLOSURES:

J4-8a Kissing Front - w/ Frog Closure
OutsideView
Wearer's Left
Note: SeeSpec Pkg for
* Frog Type
* Frog & Button
Placement
Wearer's Left Front Inside Extension
J4-8b Kissing Front - Right Front Loop; Wearer's Left Inside Extension
OutsideView
Wearer's Right
OutsideView
Wearer's Left
Wearer's
Left
Wearer's
Right
InsideView
Note: SeeSpec Pkg for
* Loop Type
* Loop & Button
Placement
Inside
Placket

Wearer's
Right
OutsideView
Wearer's Left
OutsideView
Wearer's Right
Wearer's
Left
J4-8c Kissing Front - Self Fold Placket Right Front Loop;
InsideView
Note: SeeSpec Pkg for
* Loop Type
* Loop & Button
Placement
Wearer's Left Inside Extension
OutsideView
Wearer's Right
OutsideView
Wearer's Left
Weaerr's
Left
J4-8d Kissing Front -Left Front Loop; Wearer's Right Front Inside Extension
Wearer's
Right
InsideView
Note: SeeSpec Pkg for
* Loop Type
* Loop & Button
Placement

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 37 November 2009
SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER:

Inside Garment
Lining Lining
S
e
a
m
Mitered Corner
A14-6 Slit w/Bendback Facing
Mitered Corner - Lined
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
A14-6a Slit - No Tack


*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
S
e
a
m
Stitch-tack
Outside Garment
A14-6b Slit - Stitch Tack
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment
Bartack
A14-6c Slit - Bartack

Note:
Note:
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 38 November 2009
WELT POCKETS:
Note: Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size.
Placement can be angled or horizontal. Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. See specification package.


Inside of Garment w/Facing
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end
Tack to Princess
seamallowance
Inside of Garment w/o Facing
J6-1 Welt Pocket - Angled; Inside View


J6-1a Welt Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch
Outside of Garment
J6-1c Welt Pocket- Angled w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment




Tack to Princess
seamallowance
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end
Inside of Garment w/o Face
J6-1 Welt Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View
Inside of Garment w/Facing



Outside of Garment
J6-1b Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch


Outside of Garment
J6-1d Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 39 November 2009
CHEST POCKET:

Note: Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size.
Pocket with or without Topstitch. See Specification Package.

J6-1e Chest Pocket
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
3" @
center
Base closed
w/ 1/2" open
at each end


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 40 November 2009
BESOM POCKETS:
Note: Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size.
Placement can be angled or horizontal. Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. See specification package.


Inside of Garment w/o Facing
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end
Tack to Princess
seamallowance
J6-3 Besom Pocket - Angled; Inside View
Inside of Garment w/Facing

J6-3a Besom Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch
Outside of Garment


J6-3c Besom Pocket - Angled w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment




J6-3 Besom Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View
Inside of Garment w/Facing
Tack to Princess
seamallowance
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end
Inside of Garment w/o Facing

Outside of Garment
J6-3b Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch

J6-3d Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 41 November 2009
VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET:
Note: Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size.
Placement can be angled or horizontal. Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. See specification package.

Attachto Frt Facing
Frt Edgew/ LiningStrip
Insideof Garment - Tack Option 1
StitchTack
Closedw/
1/2" Open
at eachends
J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
StitchTack under Facing
Insideof Garment - Tack Option 2
J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
StitchTack
Closedw/
1/2" Open
at eachends
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
w/o Bartack
J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e

J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch, w/Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/ Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
w/o Bartack
Outsideof Garment
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch & Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/ Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e

Outside of Garment
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
w/o Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e

F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch; w/Bartack
Outsideof Garment
w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
w/ Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch & Bartack
Outside of Garment

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 42 November 2009
VERTICAL ONSEAM POCKET:

J6-5a Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with Bendback / Extended Facing
P
o
c
k
e
t

o
p
e
n
i
n
g
Outsideof Garment
TopPocket Bag
Opening
Bendback
(seeSpec Pkg
for Facing width)
Edgestitch
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket
Bag
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Opening
Attached Facing
w/ Backstitch
or
Topstitch
(seeSpec Pkg
for Facingwidth)
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
Edgestitch
TopPocket Bag
J6-5b Vertical "Onseam" Pocket w/ Attached Facings
Outsideof Garment
P
o
c
k
e
t

o
p
e
n
i
n
g
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
J6-5c Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with No Facing; Attached Pocket Bag
P
o
c
k
e
t

o
p
e
n
i
n
g
Outsideof Garment
TopPocketBag
Opening
Attached
Pocket Bag
w/ Backstitch
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket
Bag
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Attached
Pocket Bag
w/ Backstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 43 November 2009
PATCH POCKETS:
Note: Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. See specification package.

Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Bendback Facing:
J6-6a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing
"Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch
Seamed
inside
Raw edge w/
or w/o Staystitch
(see spec pkg)
1" Bendback
Facing
* See Spec Pkg. for
Facing Finish
Seamed
inside
Raw edge w/
or w/o Staystitch
(seespec pkg)
J6-6b Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing
"Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch
1" Bendback
Facing
* See Spec Pkg. for
Facing Finish
Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Attached Facing:
* 1" Attached Facing
* Backstitch
or Topstitched.
See Spec Pkg
J6-6c Patch Pocket - Attached Facing
"Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch
Raw edge w/
or w/o Staystitch
(see spec pkg)
Seamed
inside
* See Spec Pkg. for
Facing Finish
J6-6d Patch Pocket - Attached Facing
"Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch
* See Spec Pkg. for
Facing Finish
Raw edge w/
or w/o Staystitch
(see spec pkg)
Seamed
inside
* 1" Attached Facing
* Backstitch
or Topstitched.
See Spec Pkg
Topstitch setting:
Single
Bendback
OveredgeFinish -
* Seespec pkg
Topstitch to set Pocket
J6-7a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing
Topstitched Setting
Bendback
Facing
* SeeSpec Pkg. for
Facing Finish
* SeeSpec Pkg. for
Facing Finish
Topstitch to set Pocket
J6-7b Patch Pocket - Attached Facing
Topstitched Setting
Single
Bendback
OveredgeFinish -
* Seespec pkg
* 1" Attached Facing
* Backstitch
or Topstitched.
SeeSpec Pkg
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 44 November 2009
POCKET FLAP WELT OR BESOM POCKET:
Flap Pocket can be angled or horizontal. Flap can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed). See specification package.

Under Flap:
* Cut smaller than outer flap.
* Cut on bias.
Under
Flap
Bias

J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap
(no Topstitch at outer edge)
FlapSet aboveWelt Edge
Outsideof Garment
Raw Edge
Enclosed
Under Flap
J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
FlapSet aboveWelt Edge
Outsideof Garment
Raw Edge
Enclosed
Under Flap

Outsideof Garment
Flap set into Welt seam
Under Flap
J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap
(no Topstitch at outer edge)

J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
Flapset into Welt seam
Outsideof Garment
Under Flap



Under Flap:
* Cut smaller than outer flap.
* Cut on bias.
Under
Flap
Bias


FlapSet aboveWelt Edge
J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap
Outsideof Garment
Under Flap
Raw Edge
Enclosed
J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
Outsideof Garment
Raw Edge
Enclosed
Under Flap
Flap Set aboveWelt Edge

Outside of Garment
J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap
Flap set into Welt seam
Under Flap
J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
Outsideof Garment
Under Flap
Flapset into Welt seam


POCKET FLAP Patch pocket:
Flap Pocket can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed). See specification package.
Raw Edge
Enclosed
J7-3a Flap-Patch Pocket -
No Topstitch; w/ Stitch-tack
Under Flap:
Bias
Stitch-tack

Under Flap:
Bias
J7-3b Flap-Patch Pocket -
No Topstitch; w/ Bartack
Raw Edge
Enclosed
Bartack
J7-4a Flap-Patch Pocket-
Topstitch w/ Stitch-tack
Raw Edge
Enclosed
Stitch Tack
Under Flap:
Bias
Raw Edge
Enclosed
J7-4b Flap-Patch Pocket-
Topstitch w/ Bartack
Under Flap:
Bias
Bartack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 45 November 2009
PLEATS:
Inverted Pleat
A3-1 Inverted Pleat
Edgestitch to
Control Pleat
InsideView
Outside View
Box Pleat
A3-2 Box Pleat
OutsideView
Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping:
A3-5 Inverted Pleat "X" Tack for Shipping
Pintuck
A3-4 Pintuck
Knife / Single Side Pleat
A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 46 November 2009
BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:


Folded
A6-1 Full Clean Finish
w/Edgestitch

A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
Outside of
Garment
Inside of
Garment
Backstitch
Edge finished w/
Facing OR Lining
Piping w/ or w/o Filler
Note:
No Backstitch if
edge is Topstitched
BUTTONHOLES:
A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish
Topside
Underside
(looks sameas Topside)

Underside
(Straight Buttonhole)
Topside
A10-4b Bound Buttonhole -
Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole
A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched
Topside
Underside
(looks sameas Topside)
A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather
Topside Underside
A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole
w/Bartack at end
Bartack
w/ or w/o Gimp Filler
(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole
w/ Fishtail End
w/ or w/o Gimp
(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-3 Regular/Straight
Buttonhole
A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole -
Horizontal
Seam
A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole -
Vertical
Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 47 November 2009
ZIPPER FRONT CLOSURES:

A4-1b Lapped Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
SeeSpec Pkg for
Zipper Finish
A4-2b Kissing Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for
Zipper Finish
A4-3b Exposed Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for
Zipper Finish
Open End
A4-4b Invisible Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
* See Spec Pkg for
Front Facing

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 48 November 2009
ZIPPER TERMS:
NOTE: See specification package for Right for Left Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.
(A) Closed end -
Normal type
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended
Closed
(B) 2 - Ended
Closed
(D) 2 Pulls -
2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull
Open End
Common Zipper Types
(A) Closed end -
Invisible type
Sealed
End
Sealed
at Top


TapeEnds
Stringer
Cord
Bead
BottomStop
Slider
Chain
Pull
Teeth
Top Stops
Retainer
SeparablePin
Retainer Pin
Opened
Tape
Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms

Tape
Width
Chain
Width
Length of
Fastener
Zipper Dimension Terms

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 49 November 2009
OTHER CLOSURES:
A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -
Kissing Setting


A10-6b Crochet Button Loop -
Open Setting

A10-7a Button Loop -
Kissing Setting
A10-7b Button Loop -
Open Setting



A10-7c Button Loop -
Closed Setting

Top Side
Under side of Loop
A10-8 Folder Button Loop

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure


A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye
A11-1b Hook &
Straight Eye

A11-1c Hook & Loop
A11-2a Hook & Bar
a. Machine Set
* Note: Reinforce w/
Self or Interlining

A11-2b Hook & Bar
b. Hand Set

A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape
Hook Tape
Loop Tape

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 50 November 2009
BELT LOOPS:

Press w/ Seamcentered
A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop

A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop
Seamat edge.

A12-3 Folder Finish-Belt Loop

Top side Under side
A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop
A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop (at seam)
Seam
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop
(set in Seam)
(4) Reverse
Bendback
(5) Outside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback
(1) Stitch-tack
A12-5 Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Outside Stitch-tack @ Top
(4) Reverse
Bendback
(5) Inside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback
(1) Stitch-tack
A12-6 Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Inside Stitch-tack
A12-7 Clean Finish @ Bottom;
Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack
(4) Bartack
(3) Single
Bendback
(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 51 November 2009
DECORATIVE STITCHES:
DST-1 Pearl Stitch
Inside Garment
Pearl Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.
DST-2 Shell Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch to formthread around edge in "Shell" shape.
Shell Stitch
Inside Garment
* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have
wavy Lettuce leaf edge.
* See spec pkg for stitch width & density.
Outside Garment
DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch
Lettuce Edge
Surging Stitch
Inside Garment
DST-4 Picot Stitch
Outside Garment
* Two thread multi-step Chainstitch
formed just off edge.
Picot Stitch
DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting
*Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges.
*See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.
Two Needle Fagoting

DTS-6 Pick Stitch
*See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.
* Stitch Length and Spacing
may be even or uneven.
Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 52 November 2009
DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):

DST-7 Saddle Stitch
* Stitch Length and Spacing
are equal size.
* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).
Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.
* Overedge stitch.
* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.
Outside Garment
DST-8 Blanket Stitch
Blanket Stitch
Inside Garment

Step 2 - Topside
Step 2 - Underside
Seamat top of tuck
Double Needle w/
Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside
* closes fold
* creates tuck
* See Spec Pkg
for Tuck Height
Seamat top of tuck
Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside
DTS-9 Air Tucking