http://www.scribd.

com/doc/52297989/QUALITY-CONTROL-SYSTEMS-USED-IN-APPAREL-INDUSTRY

Fabrics Faults or Defects:

v Broken Ends.
v Broken Picks.
v Mixed End or Pick/ Mixed warp or weft
v Mildew
v Shuttle Marks.
v Reed Marks.
v Color Shed Variation.
v Slubs.
v Broken Patterns.
Fabric Inspection System:
v Graniteville .78 System (1975).
v 4 Point Test (AAMA& AAQC) American Apparel Manufacturers
Association & American Association of Quality Control.
v 10 Point System.

Fabric Tests:

Fabric Weight Test
Method Name: ASTM D 1910 ( ASTM = American Standard
Testing Method )
Unit : Oz/yd
2
Weight
Area
G.S.M (Woven)
= EPI *1.03 + PPI *1.05 *23.25
N
e
warp N
e
weft


Fabric Pilling Test
Method Name: ASTM D 3512
Apparatus Name: The random tumble pilling tester
Rating Range : 1-5
1 = Severe pilling
5 = No pilling

(3-5 = Acceptable Range)
Fabric Shrinkage Test
Method Name: AATCC #135 (AATCC = American Association
Textile Chemists And Colorists)
Apparatus Name: The shirly shrinkage tester
Shrinkage Range : 7% shrinkage

L
o -
L
s
*100%
L
o

Fabric color Fastness Test
Method Name: AATCC # 8; For Washing
AATCC # 61; For rubbing / crocking
AATCC # 44; For Perspiratior
Range : 1- 5
1= Severe fading
5= No Fading
4-5 = Acceptable Range.
Fabric Bursting Strength Test
Method Name : ASTM D 3787
Basically Knitted and Felted Fabric
Acceptable Range : 40 Lb/ F


Fabric Quality Inspection:
Inspection in reference to the apparel industry can be defined as the visual examination
or review of raw materials (like fabric, sewing threads, buttons, trims, etc). It is an
important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric
quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing.

The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a
roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for
defective materials. Normally, we inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and evaluate them
based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems
before it is put into production. Normally four system are used forinspection of
finished garments.
1. 4 point system
2. 10 point system
3. Graniteville "78" system.
4. Dallas system.
But among them four point system is widely used. Now a short description of 4 point
inspection system is given below.

Apparel inspection
Four Point System:
The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-
grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel
fabrics and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society
or Quality Control).

The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and
significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single
defect. Defect can be in either length or width direction, the system remains the same.
Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.

In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment
and make sure to select at least one roll of each colour way. Fabric defects are
assigned points based on the following:

Size of defect Penalty
3 inches or less 1 points
Over 3 but not over 6 2 points
Over 6 but nor over 9 3 points
Over 9 inches 4 points

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance
criteria is generally not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than
40 points are considered "seconds".

The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by:

= (Total points scored in the roll * 3600) / Fabric width in inches * Total yards inspected

The following are noteworthy points for this system:
No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.
The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.
This system makes no provision for the probability of minor defects.
4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as it is easy to
teach and learn.


Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/12/apparel-garment-quality-
inspection.html#ixzz3AAAffOTu

The word of Inspection in garments engineering mainly identifies to the visual
examination or review/scrutinize of raw materials (like fabric, accessories, trims
etc). It is an imperative process in any apparel industry to keep away from rejects
due to low fabric or accessories quality and precautions to remove unexpected
loss/defects of finished goods.

The quality of a finished item in apparel industry mostly be controlled on the
quality of fabric when it is collected as a roll from mills. Even it occupies 60/70
percent of total garments cost. Apparel industry should take some defensive
actions to ensure quality full fabric is being used in their items and set up fabric
inspection department with modern equipment and skilled manpower.

AIM: Fabric mills and garments industry, both parties quality team should give
their highest effort to erase any unexpected circumstances. Even the most
exceptional/excellence manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective
materials.
* Garments producer: Have to inspect minimum 10% per color or more of any
consignment when they got and assess them based on a four-point system. By this
process, they can minimize fabric related quality troubles before it moved to
production.
* Fabric mill: Have to inspect 100% of finished goods; defects must be recorded
for each roll.

Usually four methods may be followed for fabric inspection process.
1) Graniteville "78" system.
2) Dallas system.
3) 4 point system
4) 10 point system

But, above all 4 point system is most popular and broadly used as it is very simple
to applicable, educate and learn. Lets find a tiny description of 4 point inspection
system below.

To use this system someone have to know following procedure:
1) Vast idea on nature of fabric defects (how a defect looks and its appearance)
2) Fabric inspection method or preparation
3) Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.
4) Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll
or consignment.
5) A Check sheet or format for keeping data

Four Point System:
Most of the apparel industry prefers Four Point rating system for determining
fabric quality and it is certified by the American Society of Quality Control
(ASQC) as well as the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA).
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size,
quality and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned
for any single defect. Defect can be measured either length or width direction, the
system remains the same. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are
assigned to minor defects.

Defect Classification
Whenever defects are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system
and defect must be assigned by a number of points depending on the
severity/length.
Inches ( ) (mm) Points
From 0 > 3" length/width Up to 75mm 1 point
From 3.1" > 6"length/width 75mm > 150mm 2 points
From 6.1" > 9"length/width 150mm > 230mm 3 points
More than 9"length/width More than 230mm 4 points
Only major defects are taking into account. A serious defect is any defect that
would cause a final garment to be considered a second.
* Upon the number and the size of the imperfections in the given yard, a maximum
of 4 points can be given to one linear yard.
* Four points can be given for each linear yard, when a defect running
continuously along the length of the fabric.
* Hole point may be evaluated by size.
Holes and openings (largest dimension)
1" or less 2
Over 1" 4

Acceptability of Roll / Shipment
Fabric shipments can be considered to be second quality and not acceptable upon
the following total points. Fabric supplier is responsible for their fabric defect and
to compensate for defects, 1 yard for every 8 points.
For below items classified for a point fabric, fabric supplier should compensate for
all defective garment cutting panels or pieces.

Synthetic woven average of 15 points per 100
linear yards
Twill, cotton, linen average of 20 points per 100
linear yards
Warp
knits
average of 15 points per 100
linear yards
Flat knit
rib
average of 0 point per piece
Prints average of 0 point per 100
repeat
Synthetic/Synthetic blends weft knits average of 15 points per 100
linear yards
Body mapping, Engineering average of 0 point per 100
repeat

Defect calculation: total liner yards +total defect points x 100

If total point is greater than 30 per 100 liner yards, no particular roll should be
considered first quality.

Total defect points per 100 sq. yards of cloth are computed and therefore the
acceptance criteria are usually no more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls
containing over 40 points are considered "seconds".

The formula to compute penalty points per 100 sq. yards is given by:

= (Total points scored in the roll * 3600) / Fabric width in inches * Total yards
inspected
Example: A fabric roll 150 yards long and 56" wide contains following defects.
6 defects up to 3" length
4 defects from 3" to 6" length
2 defects from 6" to 9" length
1 defect over 9" length
1 hole over 1"
6 x 1
4 X 2
2 X 3
1 X 4
1 X 4
6 points
8 points
6 points
4 points
4 points
Total defect points 28 Points
Therefore,
Points / sq. yards
= (28 X 3600) / (56 X 150)
= 12 points

Notable points of this system are describing below:
The process has no stipulation for the probability of minor defects.
The fabric is grade regardless of the end-product.
No more than 4 penalty points is appointed for any single defect.
Inspection Procedure under 4 points systems:
* Decide the quantity to inspect at least 10% of any consignment.
* Even small consignment has to be sure to choose at least one roll of each color
way. If more than one role must be chosen, then select the additional roles in
proportion to the total number of roles per color received.
* Pick up the rolls to inspect.
* Set the rolls on the inspection device.
* Fabric inspector should have an approved fabric submission form to compare
with bulk lot.
* Measure the fabric width and cut off a 6 inch piece across the width of the end of
the roll. Mark the right and left side of the strip. After inspect every 50 yards
please slow down the inspection process and use the strip to check for any shading
problems. Also ensure to check the end of the role.
* Inspect for visual flaws under clear lighting source with slow speed to find out
the imperfections.
* Check for biased, bowed and skewed fabric.
* Mark any imperfections by the colored sticker or chalk so that they can be easily
found whenever needed.
* Make sure the roll exist the accurate yardage as declared by the supplier.
* Fabric item#, length, width, roll no, defect types and other ticket information
must be recorded properly.

Please refer to below link for inspection format what are vastly using during fabric
inspection.
Slide share link: http://www.slideshare.net/monirz/four-point-25332019

Fabric Quality Inspection:
The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll.
Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective
materials. Normally, 10% of the rolls that are received are evaluated based on a four-point
system. This way, fabric related quality problems can be avoided before it is put into
production'

Four- Point System:
Amount to select: Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls of the shipment.
Selection of rolls: Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must be
selected, then choose the additional roles in proportion to the total number of roles per color
received.

Defect Classification (Four- Point System):
Size Defect Penalty .
-3 inches or less: 1 Point
-Over 3 inches, but less than 6: 2 Points
-Over 6 inches, but less than 9: 3 Points
-Over 9 inches: 4 Points
The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect
that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)
Major Defects:
Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn
variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.
Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color
smear, or shading.
Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:
40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate
# of Points per 100 yds = # of penalty points x 100
Yds inspected
Inspection Procedure:
Determine the amount to inspect 10%).
Select the rolls to inspect.
Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of
the strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any
shading problems. Also make sure to check the end of the role.
Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The
fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may
have to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.
Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source.
Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted.
Record any defects.

what is 10 point system in fabric inspection If you want to produce high quality garments,
you need high quality piece goods. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is
difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. '''Apparel Search recommends a
minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. Many factories
attempt to inspect the fabric during the spreading, but this is probably unrealistic to depend
on the spreader to control the fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be inspected prior
to the fabric reaching the cutting tables. '''

There are several piece good inspection systems for measuring the quality of fabrics. Their
is a Ten-Point System, which was developed in the 1950's. That system assigns penalty
points to each defect, depending on the length of the defect. The system is a bit
complicated because the points per length vary for warp and filling defects. There is also
a Dallas System published in the 1970's. That system was developed specifically for knits.
According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment the garment would
then be termed a second. In regard to fabric, this system defines a second as "more then
one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards." For example, one
piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects. Another system for evaluating
piece goods is the Four-Point System. In this system, you should inspect at least 10
percent of the total rolls in the shipment. Make sure to select at least one roll or each color
way. The defect classification works as follows.
Size of Defect:
3 inches or less = 1 point penalty
Over 3 inches but not over 6 inches = 2 point penalty
Over 6 inches but not over 9 inches = 3 point penalty
Over 9 inches = 4 point penalty

Note: a maximum of 4 points should be charged to one linear yard. Also, note that only
"major" defects are charged.

The acceptable score varies. Many companies use 40 points per 100 yards as acceptable
defect rate. However, others may find this not acceptable...

Here is some math to show you an example.

Total Yardage received: 5400
Acceptance Point-count: 40 per 100 yards
Total Yards Inspected : 540
Total penalty points found in the sample inspection: 150 points

150 divided by 540 times 100 = 27.77 points per 100 yards (because the allowance is 40
points per 100 yards, this shipment would be acceptable).

Above are only a few examples of fabric testing procedures. In fact, above is only a short
summary of the processes. If you are responsible for inspecting fabric, you really will need
to do more research on this subject


Objective of Fabric Inspection:

The objective of fabric inspection is to ascertain whether the fabric received is ol" I he expected
Quality standard or not. The main objective is detection of fabric defects and nonconformance as
early as possible. So that the time and money are not wasted in the manufacturing, process. The
ultimate goal of any quality control activity in clothing' industry is to satisfy the customers.

Importance of Fabric Inspection:

As we know that fabric are the main and costly raw materials of a garment. So it is very important
to use fabric efficiently and control wastage of fabric. On the other hand fabric defects are the
maximum defects of garments, for which many-unexpected problem may occur in a clothing
industry. Such as- short shipment, discount, low price etc.

To avoid all above problems and to take preventive measures fabric inspection is very important for
a clothing industry. It is also important for the following aspects:

1) Improve product quality


2) Minimize waste


3) Reduce the cost


4) Avoid short shipment/Order cancellation.


5) Increase productivity



A fabric inspection only addresses itself to patent defects because they are the ones which can be
recognized by a reasonable inspection. Any reasonable inspection can be performed by using
Grading System.


Grading Systems

There arc-different types of standard grading systems in practice. A system is agreed or selected by
mutual acceptance between supplier and buyer. Some of the available grading systems are given
Below:

(a) 4 point system


(b) 10 point system


(c) Graniteville '78' system


(d) 6 point system


(e) Dallas system


Regards
Bipul
Apparel-Merchandising apparel-merchandising.com
Presented By : Shourov Hasan Objective of Fabric Inspection: The objective of fabric inspection is to
ascertain whether the fabric received is ol" I he expected Quality standard or not. The main objective is
detection of fabric...