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The study investigated the themes consumers discuss when describing their everyday considerations about food quality. The study suggests that concerns about food safety are integrated in everyday concepts of food quality, and that consumers individually develop strategies to deal with this. The results suggest that choices of foods often reflect compromises in everyday liferather than theconsumers' preferences.
The study investigated the themes consumers discuss when describing their everyday considerations about food quality. The study suggests that concerns about food safety are integrated in everyday concepts of food quality, and that consumers individually develop strategies to deal with this. The results suggest that choices of foods often reflect compromises in everyday liferather than theconsumers' preferences.
The study investigated the themes consumers discuss when describing their everyday considerations about food quality. The study suggests that concerns about food safety are integrated in everyday concepts of food quality, and that consumers individually develop strategies to deal with this. The results suggest that choices of foods often reflect compromises in everyday liferather than theconsumers' preferences.
Consumers Views on Food Quality. A Qualitative Interview
Study LOTTE HOLM and HELLE KILDEVANG Research Department of Human Nutrition, Royal Veterinary and Agricultural University, Denmark The study investigated the themes consumers discuss when describing their everyday considerations about food quality. Twenty Copenhagen families with youngchildenwereinterviewedopen-endedlyconcerningdailyfood-relatedprac- tices and thoughts, making particular use of narrative descriptions of specic meals. Respondentsexpressed both positiveand negativeopinionsabout abroad variety of processed and unprocessedfoods. Positiveopinionsabout foodquality relatedmainlytopersonal criteriasuchastasteor convenience. Negativecomments mainly related to how foods were processed or distributed. The study suggests that concerns about food safety are integrated in everyday concepts of food quality, and that consumers individually develop strategies to deal with this. However, feelings of uncertainty, helplessness and self reproach werefrequently reported. The results suggest that choices of foods often reect compromises in everyday liferather than theconsumers preferences. 1996 Academic Press Limited I N1onic1ioN Consumers perception of food quality, and their attitudes and practices related to foods, arethemes of interest for food producers and retailers, public authorities andhealtheducators. I nthescienticliteraturethisinterest isreectedindiscussions about how food quality should bedened (Lassen, 1993), how consumers perceive food quality (Steenkamp, 1986) and chose food (Wierenga, 1983), and about risk perception and risk communication (Slovic, 1987). Several authors have suggested that more elements should be included in a modern food quality concept. Ecological concerns (Vogtmann, 1988) and political values (Leitzmann & Sichert-Oevermann, 1988) havebeen put forward. I t has also beensuggestedthat theconcept shouldhavedierent values(valueladen, positive and neutral) (Trenkle, 1983). I n Denmark, where this study was conducted, attempts to redenefood quality havebeen published by agricultural organizations, (Sass, 1981), consumers organizations, trade unions (Forbrugerradet, NOAH & Naerings- og Nydelsesmiddelarbejder Forbundet, 1988) and researchers (Lassen, This project was supported by grant LMF-KVL-9 from the Ministry of Agriculture. Secretaries Pia Freundlich, Birthe Hove, Winnie Steensen and Lene Biller are thanked for transcribing the tapes. Roger Leys and Tina Cuthbertson arethanked for assisting with theEnglish translation. Address correspondence to: Lotte Holm, Department of Human Nutrition, Rolighedsvej 30, DK-1958 Frederiksberg C, Copenhagen, Denmark. 01956663/96/040001+14 $18.00/0 1996 Academic Press Limited 2 L. HOLM AND H. KI LDEVANG 1993). I t has been argued that technological and environmental problems with modern food production need to be taken into consideration because they are of vital importancefor societyandof increasinginterest for consumers. Thoughagreater readinesstomeet consumer demandisanexpressedpurposeof thecontributions, they draw only unsystematically on empirical evidence of consumers views on food quality. Steenkamps (1989) concept of perceived quality attempts to mediatebetween objectiveproduct characteristicsandconsumer preferences. I t stressesthat perceived quality may dier fromobjective quality, and that consumers use cues to evaluate quality. Theconcept implies that individual assessments of quality arepersonal and situational, and that they are often based on incomplete information. The studies of Steenkamp and others generatedetailed proles of quality parameters for single products as perceived by consumers. Studies using theattitudemodel of Ajzen and Fisjbein(1980) to investigatedeterminantsof foodchoice(Shepherd, 1988; Shepherd & Stockley, 1985; Tuorila, 1990; Tuorila & Pangborn, 1988) havetypically focused on howattitudes and norms can predict consumption of specic foods. A modied version of the model has been used to study consumers attitudes towards foods produced by genetechnology (Sparks, Shepherd & Frewer, 1995). Thestudiespresentedabovehavetendedto focusonspecicfoodsor production methods. Thefoods areoften studied in isolation as singleproducts. Generally, the studies have not examined the wider social framework and the cultural system in which food products areconsumed. I n the eld of risk perception, survey techniques have been used to investigate whether consumers worry about the food they eat (Grunert & Kristensen, 1992; Meier-Ploeger, 1988; Schafer et al., 1993a; Sellerberg, 1990; Sjoden, 1993; Wandel & Bugge, 1994). The evidence fromthese surveys is inconsistent. I n all the studies but one (Sellerberg, 1990), it is generally agreed that concern about food safety is widespread and increasing. A methodological aspect is important here: a majority of respondents conrmed their concern when asked about specic health hazards, whereas a general question about whether respondents worried about thefood they ateledamajoritytodenyfeelingsof anxiety(Sellerberg, 1991). Thesurveystherefore raise the question of how deeply rooted concerns about food safety are among consumers (Wandel, 1995). Very little is known about how food risks aect peoples lives and their food choices. Several studieshaverevealed littleassociation between consumers attitudes to issues such as food additives or organically grown vegetables and their actual buying behaviour (Bjerke, 1992; Grunert & Kristensen, 1992; Prattala, Tuorila- Ollikainen & Lahteenmaki, 1985). This also indicates that food safety issues may not be very important to consumers. There is, however, a lack of sociological literature on how food quality is thought of in everyday life and how consumers deal with thecomplex reality of technological developments in thefood-producing sector (Mennel, Murcott & van Otterloo, 1992). Deciding which foods to buy, serve and eat is not based on uniformprinciples such asfood quality or health. Theprovidingand eatingof mealstakesplacewithin thestreamof events that makeup ordinary daily life, and is enmeshed in acomplex of social relations (Charles & Kerr, 1988; DeVault, 1991; Ekstrom, 1990; J ansson, 1988; Murcott, 1983). Furthermore, eating is guided by cultural concepts of meals, dishesand foodswhich attach meaningand statusto theseelements(Douglas, 1975; Goode, Curtis & Theophano 1984; Marshall, 1988; Murcott, 1982). I t is therefore 3 CONSUMERS AND FOOD QUALI TY important to study consumers views on foods in an everyday context. This is the rationale of sociological and social anthropological research on food and eating which particularly uses qualitative research methods (Mennel et al., 1992). The present study stems fromthis research tradition. Theaimwasto studythepracticesof everydaylifeinorder to reveal food-related concernsinvolved in theplanningand eatingof meals. Thestudy investigated which actions, thoughtsandconsiderationsconsumersreportedinrelationtospecicmeals. Thepresent analysis addressed theissueof food quality, focussingon foods that respondents wereconcerned about and on which criteria they used when describing foods as good or not good, particularly issues related to food safety. Mr1non I nterviewees TwentyCopenhagenfamilieswithchildrenunder 6yearsof agewereinterviewed. Both working class and middle class families were represented. The families were contacted through two kindergartens situated in a small neighbourhood in thecity. Letters asking families to participatein thestudy werehanded out to parents, who were anonymous to the researchers but known to the heads of the kindergartens. Attempts weremadeto ensurethat thefamilies consisted of two adults (onefamily was found to bea single-parent family most of thetime), and that wage-labour was an important part of the familys life (i.e. at least one, but preferably both adults, working outsidethehome). I n all thehouseholds at least oneparent was working, and in 14of thefamilies both adults had paid work. Forty letters werehanded out, anddistributionwasstoppedwhen20familieshadagreedtoparticipate. Eachfamily decided which adult was to take part in the interview. I n onefamily only theman was interviewed, in eight families both adults took part, and in 11families only the woman participated. Nineteen interviews wereconducted in theinformants homes, and onein a roomat thekindergarten. Thefamilies lived in an area of thecity with a largevariety of supermarkets and shops. Data Collection Theinterviewsweresemi-structured, usinganopen-endedinterviewguideinviting respondents to speak in their own words and in narrativestructures (Mishler, 1986) (Table 1). The aimwas to obtain realistic reports of the families actual practices, rather than the informants view on correct family life and meals, or what they perceived to be the norms of the interviewers. The interviewers (the authors) introduced themselves as sociologists with only a supercial knowledgeof food and nutrition. Theinterviewsfocusedongatheringdetailedinformationonspecicevents, starting with theevening meal of theday beforetheinterview. All issues, including those that were brought up by the informants, were pursued through follow-up questions until both interviewer and informant felt they had been dealt with ad- equately. Theinterviews lasted for 12h. They weretape-recorded and transcribed verbatim. 4 L. HOLM AND H. KI LDEVANG T:nir 1 Theinterviewguide Meals Typical questions Yesterday evening What happened? Another ordinary evening What was themeal like? Weekend meals Wherewereyou sitting? Guests: Who was present? a. Friends What was on thetable? b. Relatives (grandparents) Who had madeit? c. Parties Who liked it? Why this food? (e.g. carrots, peas, sauce, bread, pizza etc) Lunch: a. Everyday (lunch packs) Wheredid therawmaterials comefrom? b. Weekends (Freezer, fridge, shop?) When was it bought? Wherewas it bought? Why there? What do you think of this shop? Miscellaneous issues: Wheredid you learn to cook? Cooking Useof cook books, magazines etc. Experts What do you think of experts? Which experts do you listen to? Own background Wheredid you liveafter leaving your parents home? Data Analysis Theanalysiswasexploratory andfollowed theprocedureof reviewingissuesand themes discussed in each interviewand developing fromthesea code-systemwhich identied the most important themes in all interviews. Segments of the interview texts were then identied and labelled by assignment of one or several descriptive codes(Miles&Huberman, 1984) whichdidnot entail interpretations. Segment labels included good quality (segments where food products were spoken of favourably) and quality action (segments where respondents described their practices when choosing food products on the market). The length of the coded segments varied fromonestatement to several pages and thetotal material amounted to about 600 pages of text. The software programme Alpha for qualitative analysis of texts (Kristensen&Sommerlund, 1987) wasusedinthecodingprocessandinthereviewing of codes. Theprogrammefacilitates theorganization of notes and quotations, and allows text to bedivided, sorted and reorganized in multipleways without changing the original data. Computerized coding of interview transcripts involves a risk of atomismandcontext stripping(Miles&Huberman, 1984). However, intheanalytical process, summariesandfull-lengthtranscriptswerecheckedfor context of thecoded segments. Summaries and transcripts were also used when individual respondents werecharacterized or classied. Thecoding, thesummaries and classications were done by each author separately, compared and adjusted after consensus had been reached. 5 CONSUMERS AND FOOD QUALI TY Rrsii1s Foods Discussed Foods were discussed continuously and in dierent contexts throughout the interviews: selection of foods, family members individual preferences for various foods and dishes, cooking practices, etc. Overall a broad variety of foods were commented on positively or negatively, both unprocessed and processed foods. Meat was the single food most frequently discussed. Twenty-ve percent of all positive descriptions of foods, and 40%of all critical comments, were about meat. Subsequently, but much less frequently, com- mentsweremadeabout meat productsandspreads(usedonDanishopen-sandwiches smrrebrd), conveniencefoods (ready-mademeals), vegetables and bread. The foods were frequently identied either by a particular brand name, or by theshop wherethey werepurchased. Foods that earned favourablecomment were identiedequallyfrequentlybybrandor shop, whereascriticizedfoodsweretypically identiedonlybytheplaceof purchase. Moregeneral negativecommentsweremade on foods which had undergone industrial processing, were products of modern agricultureor convenienceproducts, and thesefoods werenot always identied by brand name or shop. I n contrast, favourable comments mostly concerned specic foods and only rarely dealt with moregeneral features, common to several types of food product. Quality Parameters A number of dierent criteria were mentioned when describing food positively or negatively. I n most cases several criteria were mentioned in concert. Two single concepts, taste and price, had a special position. Taste was the most frequently mentioned criterion, both in critical and in favourablecomments. I t was sometimes mentioned as the single reason for deciding whether to buy a particular food, and it was the criterion most frequently mentioned in connection with other criteria. Price, on theother hand, was hardly ever mentioned as theonly reason for buying or not buyingsomething. Nevertheless, evenininterviewswherepricewasnot openly discussed, economic considerations werepresent as preconditions for a households sphereof choice, becausethey wererelevant to theselection of shops and foods. Some criteria were used in relation to both positive and negative comments, others werenot. Thecriteria could beorganized into themes, which diered in the ways food werespoken of, favourably (Table2) or unfavourably (Table3). The rst two themes of favourable comments (Table 2) are related to the respondents experiencewitheither tastingor usingtheproduct. Thenext twothemes are related to what respondents knew about or thought of the product. When speaking favourably of foods, criteria related to experience were most frequently mentioned. The negative criteria could be organized into three themes (Table 3). The rst theme refers to respondents personal preferences, or those of their families. The personal character of the preferences should be noted; no general judgements of foodqualitywereimplied. Thesecondthemeisalso basedonexperiencebut includes more generalized judgements about products. A critical attitude to producers or retailerswasoften apparent. Thethird themerefersto what consumersknewabout, 6 L. HOLM AND H. KI LDEVANG T:nir 2 Examples of positivecriteria grouped under major themes Welikeit I ts practical Liketheway it is Health produced N=43 N=21 N=16 N=15 Likeit Special oer No additives Good for allergy Thefamily likes it Easy to use Not very industrialized Many vitamins Good taste Has various uses Naturally raised Not fatty Good smell Makes good dishes livestock Good for babies Crisp Quick Bred with more Tender Quick and cheap freedom J ust right for me Easy and cheap With thebest possible Well seasoned Easy to spread life Extremely good Practical packing Has a natural taste Niceand shiny Good N refers to thenumber of times each themewas mentioned in thewholeinterviewmaterial. T:nir 3 Examples of negativecriteria grouped under major themes Contrary to own Poor quality Unwholesome/Unnatural preferences N=27 N=35 N=46 Dont likeit Looks stale Too long shelf life Disgusting Looks good but is not tender Cant beright Sickly Stinks Awful colour Deadly dull They smell odd Dont knowwhats in it Tastes of pork Ugly, bruised Full of salmonella Looks disgusting Too much fat and gristle Plastic food Tired of it Not good quality Theanimals arestressed Not wild about it Near expiration date Full of penicillin Rots beforeyou get it home Concentrated pollution Dog food Too many E-numbers A fraud Pigs lifeunhealthy Too sterilefood Light-products aredecadent Unknown additives They pour everything into it They say its dangerous Lost its nutrient value Wasteof resources May havelong-termeects on thebody Must havecolouring Unnatural Dead food N refers to thenumber of times each themewas mentioned in thewholeinterviewmaterial. 7 CONSUMERS AND FOOD QUALI TY or thought of, the product. The criteria referred to products having undergone industrial processing. Concerns often long-term about health, the environment, ethical issues and wholesomeness were sometimes expressed elaborately and some- times only implied. Criteriarelatedtopersonal experiencefeaturedlessfrequentlyincritical comments than criteria related to knowledgeor attitudes. Criteria would sometimes becombined so that they reinforced each other, as in thefollowingdiscussion of abrand of liver paste, which is themost commonly used spread on Danish smrrebrd: I t is mostly Stryhns [a brand name]. I ts one of thosethings whereI dont just go for thecheapest. I go for something that I know thefamily likes. And I look for it on special oer, you know. Criteria involving contesting qualities would also be combined, mostly when expressing doubts and uncertainties: I like it lean, but the other is cheaper. I ts easy to prepareand thechildren likeit, but it contains a lot of gluten and milk. I ts fatty food. Criteria mentioned together were not necessarily independent, but they were sometimessubstantiallyintertwined. Tasteor palatabilityseemednot onlyto depend on ingredients, spices and preparation of foods, but was sometimes inuenced by what respondents knew and felt about the foods manufacture: I think it is a bit disgusting with all theseE117 or 522 or whatever they arecalled. I think it is a bit repulsive. I dont know the name of it . . . it was this nitrite . . . [I nterviewer: Nitrite? Does it contain nitrite?] I dont know. I just think it has no taste. These ready-madedinners havean articial taste. Practices Related to Food Quality As already mentioned, most foods wereidentied by theshops wherethey were bought. Clear opinions were expressed about the shops and supermarkets in the area. Somewereconsidered cheap, someexpensive. Respondents thought that most supermarketssoldbothgoodandpoor qualityfood. Theytypicallypreferreddierent groups of products fromdierent supermarkets, e.g. meat fromoneand vegetables fromanother. With one exception, none of the respondents bought all their foods from just one shop, but would switch between supermarkets from day to day. However, only a few would go to more than one supermarket on one day as this was considered too time consuming. Hence a major part of the choices between dierent qualities of foods was doneon thespot in thesupermarket or shop, not by choosing a particular supermarket. Many foods werebought routinely, usually because the respondents knew they liked them, or through habit. Shoppingfor theseroutine foods was not described asaparticularlydemandingchore. Other foodsrequiredmorethoroughinvestigation. Theclearest information about this camefromreports of howrespondents avoided certain qualities of products. The rst category of food criticism, Contrary to own preferences (Table 3), was easily and routinely dealt with. The theme represented a straightforward relationship to thefood in question. Thisgenerally concerned awell-known product which, for various reasons, did not suit the respondents family. So it was simply not bought. The second category Poor quality referred to quality dimensions which were usuallywell known. Choosingtheright qualityoftenrequiredthoroughexamination 8 L. HOLM AND H. KI LDEVANG of the foodstu in question. The respondents described how they inspected the foodstu: they turned it over and over, smelled it, squeezed it, studied the labels, comparedmeat or fat content, checkedtheingredients, checkedthesell-by date, and so on. Nearly all respondents reported using a wide range of quality assessment strategies. Even so, several respondents felt that they could not always make sure that they really got what they thought was the best. This would have taken time and skills that were not always felt to be practicable: I f you are a pensioner you can spend thewholeday checking themarket on that particular day. You can save a lot of money, and get good quality. But if you havea job and children you cant manage, because things change so fast. My mother remembers the price of half a kilo of something in this shop and in that shop. Prices just dont register like that for me, I cant remember [them]. Respondents felt it was sometimes dicult to avoid foods that failed to meet reasonableexpectations and this was reported to be irritating. Thethird category Unwholesome/unnatural referred to quality criteria which werenot part of therespondents own experiencewith eating or handling thefood. Theywerebasedonknowledge, attitudes, feelingsandbeliefs. A varietyof individual strategies werereported (Table4). Thestrategies aregrouped into seven categories, ranging fromvery consistent sets of actions aimed at minimizing perceived risks to denial of any problems related to industrial food production. Respondentsrepresentedintherst sixcategorieswereconcernedabout problems which they related to modern technological food production. Somehad clear views that certain foods were detrimental to health or to the environment. Others were uncertain whether thereactually wasahealth risk. A senseof uneasewasfrequently mentioned: I amafraid of thelong-termeect on thechildren. The actions in the rst three categories (Table 4) represented more persistent concerns about industrial food production. Respondents who reported these kinds of actions seemed to feel adequately informed about thecontents and composition of foods. They made use of many dierent sources of information, including specializedliterature. Theywouldexpressvariousdegreesof critical attitudestowards food additivesand pollutantsin foods, and they seemed condent asto which foods were best. They generally preferred products which were organically grown and contained little or no additives. However, only one couple appeared to be able to usetheavailableinformationadequately, i.e. inamanner whichtheythought assured agreement between their attitudes and their practices (systematic investigation). The others felt that they failed to do so. I n one group (compromises), living conditions, especiallylack of timeafter havingchildren, wereseenasthemainreason for this. I n the other group (inconsistency), the reason was seen as a lack of personal consistency and strength. Self-reproach was frequent. About one third of therespondents reported actions which fell into therst threecategories. The actions described in the next three categories (Table 4) represented more sporadic concerns about industrial food production. Respondents who reported thesekind of actionsseemed to feel lesscondent about their own knowledge. Mass media and rumours among friends and relatives were mentioned as sources of information. The information referred to seemed fragmented. Apparently, re- spondentsdid not apply information about onefood product or production method to other, similar products. Reported practices were sporadic in that respondents wouldavoidcertainfoodproducts(oftenjust afew), or focusonafewcharacteristics. Generally the respondents saw their practices as sensible and reasonable, but they 9 CONSUMERS AND FOOD QUALI TY T:nir 4 Choosingfoods: Reportedstrategiesrelatedtoconsiderationsaboutindustrial production Systematic investigation Studying food groups one by one. Weighing all relevant criteria, deciding which product is thebest. Wedont switch very often. Compromises Not doingwhat is right becauseof theworkload. I givein, but its much easier. Wehave readthoselabelsfor somanyyears, nowwevestopped. All thedisgustingthingsfoodcontain! But I dont bother to makeeverything myself either. Wont go searching for thosecarrots with two screaming kids along. Inconsistency Failingto do what is right becauseof personal matters. I never buy it with nitriteor nitrate. But I buy canned tuna sh. There is a lot of pollution and preservatives in it. So I amnot consistent. You need to beconsistent or fanatic. And I amnot fanatic about anything. So I wont buy only organic food. Singlefoods Only considering somefoods. Weonly buy freerangeeggs. Wesaw this TV programme about howmeat is handled in theshop: rst it is a roast, then it gets chopped up, then made into liver-pate, then into someother pateand nally it turns into animal food. I t looks like that too. Thats why wedont buy it. Signals I nterpreting single characteristics. Some things look too bright. I f it will keep too long, you know something is wrong. I like it when everything is on the label. Maybe I dont knowwhat it means. But I can seewhat is in it. Activerepression Try not to think of it. I only read the labels when I get home. Then it is too late. I t says E276andE36andI alwayshurryto throwawaythepaper andtrynot to think of it anymore. Otherwiseyou would never bring anything home. Noactions Not interested. Leaveit to public authorities. Do not believethat thereis a problem. I just buy it. I dont know anything about it. People are still alive. I t cant have been that dangerous. I never speculateabout whether it is healthy or not. I can seeweall still exist. would still discuss how consistent one ought to be, whether one should do more, whether foods generally were all right, etc. Doubts and uncertainties seemed to be widespread, and potential self-reproaches were frequently put aside with various justications. I n about half of theinterviews, sporadic practices werereported. Therespondents who described actions in thelast category (Table4) expressed no concerns about industrial food production. They made references to the same information sources as the second group, though one respondent also had a fairly specialized knowledge of nutrition. Only one respondent seemed generally un- informed. The others seemed to have decided that they were not interested in the matter. I n four interviews, practices werereported which fell into this last category. I ntheinterviewswithcouples, thestrategiesof manandwomanwouldsometimes dier. Typicallythewomanwouldbemoreworriedabout industrial foodproduction than theman. Thestrategies of both men and women aredecribed in Table4. 10 L. HOLM AND H. KI LDEVANG DiscissioN Quality Criteria One striking nding is the thematic dierence between positive and negative comments on foods. Personal experience, either with eating or preparing foods, dominatesamongpositivecomments, whereasknowledgeandattitudesabout modern food processing and distribution dominates among critical comments. One in- terpretationof thisisthat personal preferencesmayserveasalter throughwhich moregeneral views on foods areformed. When foods areliked no further attention to other quality parameters is needed. More general criticisms are only required whenfoodsaredisliked. Thiswouldimplythat foodsafetyconcernsareusedmainly to legitimizepersonal preferences. This interpretation is supported by thefact that most respondents criticized some foods using criteria that could also have been applied to other foods. Yet these criteria were not applied where the other food product was liked by thefamily. An alternative intrepretation is that consumers feel unable to avoid what they see as the undesirable consequences of contemporary food production. They may thereforeprefer not to discuss this with regard to thefoods they actually eat. There are many reports in the interviews about feelings of helplessness, and respondents often madejokes about their food practices using disparaging terms: I served the salmonella chicken, ha ha, Wejust had thenitritesalami etc. Thesejokes can be seen as a way of touching upon the unease concerning the food supply, without entering into any serious discussion. This would imply that respondents were, in fact, worried about the foods. This is supported by the fact that concerns about food safety issues appeared frequently in the interviews without being solicited. Concerns about additives, pollutants, nutrition, livestock welfare, food cultureand ecologywereoftenveryfullydescribedandthetermsusedvariedamongrespondents. This indicates that these concerns were not stereotypes presented to meet the presumed expectations of the interviewers, but were in fact an expression of the informants personal daily considerations. Thisstudy thereforesupportsthendings of surveys on consumer attitudes towards food safety (Meier-Ploeger, 1988; Schafer et al., 1993a; Sjoden, 1993; Wandel & Bugge, 1994). These worries and anxieties would seemto be the respondents own, and not opinions solicited by the surveys themselves. The present study also shows that concerns about food are based on worries not only about health but also about agriculture, ecology and food culture. The respondents spontaneous readiness to relate food quality to wider political and societal perspectivessupportstherelevanceof thesuggestionmadebyseveral authors (Leitzmann & Sichert-Oevermann, 1988; Sass, 1981; Vogtmann, 1988) that such broader issuesshouldbeincludedinarealisticcontemporaryconcept of foodquality. Theresults of thepresent study suggest that, not only aresuch issues integrated in many consumers everyday quality evaluations, but they arealso referred to directly when morewidely accepted quality parameters such as tastearediscussed. Someof theactions reported to beprompted by food quality concerns conrm ndings fromstudies of perceived quality. Smelling and squeezing products and inferring processing methods from the expiration date shows that consumers use cues which are related sometimes to the physical product (intrinsic quality), and sometimes to marketing policy (extrinsic quality), when evaluating food quality 11 CONSUMERS AND FOOD QUALI TY (Steenkamp, 1989). I t also conrms that quality evaluations may be based on experience or on credence (Steenkamp, Wierenga & Meulenberg 1986). However, positive criteria are more often based on intrinsic quality and experience than are negative comments. Here credence is more often the basis. The results show, in accordancewith Steenkamps (1989) ndings, that consumers combinequality cues and make inferences when information is incomplete. This emphasizes also that quality parameters arenot independent but often intertwined: consumers views on taste or convenience seem to be inuenced by price or knowledge of processing methods, and viceversa. Practices Theinterviews revealed that many felt uncertain about their own qualications as food consumers. Only very fewfelt they had accurateknowledgeof food issues; many moreexpressed vaguefeelings and suspicions, often based on rumours. Most respondents made their own rules and guidelines for selecting foods, in what they experienced as an impenetrablefood market. Thestudy showed a broad variety of suchstrategies. Thestrategiesexceedwhat hasbeenstudiedasfoodsafetybehaviour (Schafer, Bultena & Hoiberg, 1993b). They are understood by the respondents as ways of dealing with thecomplex reality of thefood market. The food choices that consumers make are not always reections of their preferences. Thediscrepancy between preferenceand choice(Wierenga, 1983) often seems to betheresult of thecompromises that most participants reported they had to make. Many werepainfully awarethat their practices werenot in harmony with their own beliefs and attitudes. I n many interviews this was seen as caused by lack of time or money. However, many reproached themselves or satirized their own inconsistent practice. Frequently, this was seen as a result of personal shortcomings rather than of problems related to structural features. Reports on practical com- promises demonstrate, however, that industrial food production is abasic condition in modern life which cannot be evaded, unless with great eort. Therefore the discrepancy between consumers attitudesand their actionswhich hasbeen reported (Grunert & Kristensen, 1992; Bjerke, 1992) need not be interpreted as lack of seriousness or interest on the part of the consumer, but may rather be seen as a reectionof bewilderment andpowerlessness. I f practical andinformational barriers wereremoved, moreconsumers would belikely to engagein what they seeas more consistent practices. Foods The respondents frequently commented spontaneously on meat. This indicates that meat holds an outstandingposition as an important food, thequality of which is a complicated and delicate matter. This may be related to the traditionally high price of meat, but may also reect the overall high status of meat in western food culture (Fiddes, 1991; Twigg, 1984). Spreads, on Danish smrrebrd, were also frequently mentioned, and smrrebrdholds a relatively high status in Danish food cultureasan important and traditional element in everyday and festivelunches. The high frequency of spontaneous comments on these foods indicates that cultural signicanceinuences quality perceptions. Culturally signicant foods arelikely to 12 L. HOLM AND H. KI LDEVANG attract astronger andmoredetailedinterest fromconsumersthanarelessimportant foods. Evaluation of theResearch Approach Theapproachof thepresent studywasnaturalisticinthat it focussedonqualitative descriptions of ordinary, everyday life. The method seemed to be well suited for gathering realistic information on actual practices as they areexperienced. The openness of the method was important in avoiding the solicitation of predened themes, such as health or food safety issues. The invitation to speak of foodsinamanner anddetail of theparticipantsownchoiceisnot asuitablemethod for studies seeking quality evaluations of single products, but is more suited to bringing out overall priorities and concerns related to foods and meals. Nevertheless, possible inuences of the research situation must be evaluated (Kvale, 1987). Even if it is an aimto interviewin an entirely open way and not lead the interviewee in predened directions, respondents will always be inuenced by the interviewer, the interview situation, and what they perceive to be the object of thestudy. I n thepresent study, theinterviewers presented themselves as havinglittle or no knowledgeof food, nutritionandhealth. However, theycamefromaninstitute with a name strongly associated with science, nutrition and health. They may thereforehaverepresentedtheworldof foodandscienceintheeyesof therespondents. I nformants may havereacted in accord with what they thought this world expected of themas consumers, and focussed more on issues such as food safety or health than they would otherwisehavedone. Parts of oneinterview werein fact coded as biased as thewordingused and thethoughts expressed did not correspond to the informants presentation of herself in the rest of the interview. I n all the other interviews, however, therespondents seemed to express themselves naturally. The participants were not representative of the Danish population. They rep- resented city residents, families with young children and, in most cases, households with two wage earners. Together these features only apply to a small group in the Danish population (less than 10%: Danmarks Statistik, 1995). Nevertheless, each of thefeatures applies to broader parts of theDanish population. Morethan 50%live in cities; 76%of all women havepaid work (Danmarks Statistik, 1995) and so have 80%of women with small children (Holm& Keldborg, 1984). With a responserate of 50%, it seems reasonable to assume that the informants in the study were not exceptionally critical consumers but represented ordinary and widespread trends among Danish consumers. I t may therefore be cautiously inferred that the con- siderations and practices described in this study exist in other groups of consumers. However, the informants in this study spoke of easy access to a wide variety of shops and supermarkets, of an almost unlimited variety of foods, and timepressure in everyday life. 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Evaluation of the Program Rural Empowerment Through Agrarian and Asset Development (READ), By Project Development Institute and Federal Ministry for Cooperation and Development Karkoscha Melsbach and Schwieger