Chapter 11 Dyeing and Printing

Consumers look for two things:

Aesthetically pleasing colors and prints
Colorfastness - colors that are permanent
Bleed lose colors in water
Crock transfers color thru rubbing or abrasion
Fade lose color
Frost lose color from abrasion
Migrate shift in their color
Dyes and Pigments
Dyes (dyestuffs)
Dissolve in water
Most common way to add color
Natural dyes poor colorfastness
Chemical dyes
Pigments #134
Do not dissolve in water
Resin binder necessary to adhere pigment to
fabric
DYE
Mordant
Natural acids or oxides used to improve the
colorfastness of natural dyes
Set
To make permanent
Depth of Shade
How dark a color you can get
Dye Lot
Each dye bath prepared is considered a dye lot. Dyed
yarns include lot numbers. The number means they
were dyed at the same time
Pigment
Pigment
Inorganic compound used to add color
Binder
Holds pigment on textile surface
Curing
Process of treating fabric with dry heat to set
finishes or pigments
Characteristics of Dyes
Bond chemically with the fabric
More colorfast
Crocking and fading are less of a problem
Do not affect the texture of the fabric
Can be used on fibers, yarns, fabrics and garments
Printed colors must be aged with steam or heat
Washing and rinsing required to remove chemicals and
excess dye
Characteristics of Pigments
Cheaper and more efficient to apply
May stiffen the fabric
With dark colors, crocking and loss of color in
laundering may occur
Extensive color range possible
Can be added to manufactured fibers before extrusion
Easier to obtain color match color is on the surface
Can be applied as solid color or print
Excellent lightfastness
Colors must be cured heat or UV
Major Dye Classifications
BOX 11.3 pg. 174-175
Cellulosic Fibers
Protein Fibers
Manufactured Fibers
Cellulosic Fibers Dyes
Azoic or Naphthol Dyes
Direct Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Vat Dyes
Protein and Manufactured Fiber Dyes
Protein Fibers
Acid Dyes
Premetalized Acid Dyes
Manufactured Fiber Dyes
Cationic or Basic Dyes
Disperse Dyes
Dyeing Processes
Refer to Box 11-4 on p.177
Cost effective to delay until last stages of
production
Textiles may be dyed at several stages during
production
Solution dyeing #122
Stock or fiber dyeing #123
Yarn dyeing #124
Space dyeing #128
Piece dyeing #129
Product or garment dyeing
Dyeing Processes
Solution Dyeing
Prefiber stage Only for manufactured fibers added before
extrusion
Excellent colorfast
Expensive
Stock Dyeing
Good dye penetration
Adding color at the fiber stage
Yarn Dyeing
Adding color after fiber has been spun to yarn
Excellent dye penetration
Expensive
Donegal wool tweed/stock or
fiber dyed
Yarn Dyeing
Dyeing Processes
Yarn Dyeing
Skein dye yarn wound in loose bundles
Package dye yarn is wound on packages with a hollow center
Beam dye yarn is wound on the warp beam
Piece dyeing most common method solid color
Beam dye lightweight, open weave fabrics like above beam dye
Beck dye fabric is stitched end to end and circulated thru dye
bath
Jet dye streams of pressurized dye in an enclsed system
Pad dyeing stresses fabric, uses pads to squeeze dye into fabric
Continuous dyeing for long fabrics efficient, but color
application may not be level, or consistent
Piece Dyeing
Primarily used for solid color fabrics
Continuous length of dry cloth
Passed full-width through a trough of hot
dye solution
Cloth between padded rollers
Squeezes in color evenly
Removes excess solution
Padded Rollers for Piece Dyeing
Special Piece-Dyed Effects
Cross Dyeing #131
Multi-colored textile in blended fiber
products
Union Dyeing #130
Solid color fabric in fiber blend products
Tone-on-tone Dyeing
Shaded effect
Printing
Screen Printing
Three commercial screen methods
Hand-screen printing
slow good for small orders
Automatic screen printing Fig 11-3 p. 182
Automated version of hand printing
Rotary Screen Printing
Fastest method
Printing
Roller Printing Fig 11-4 p.182
Similar to printing a newspaper
Types of Printing pg. 183
Direct Printing #132
Blotch Printing #133
Discharge Printing
Resist Printing
Duplex Printing
Warp Printing
Flock Printing
Deluster Printing
Burn-Out Printing
Blotch Printing
Discharge print
Warp ikat
Flock print
Special Printing Techniques
Heat-Transfer Printing #136
Also called thermal printing or sublimation
printing
Photographic Printing
Also called phototransfer printing
Ink-Jet Printing
Computerized process
Problems With Printing
Second quality merchandise
Increases costs and reduces efficiency
Two Problems with Printing
Out-of-Register Prints
Off-grain Prints
Out-of-register print
Printed off-grain
Handcraft Printing Techniques
Resists Methods
Batik waxing and dye baths | Indonesia
Tie-dyeing tied then dyed
Stenciling like silk screening, but with stencil
Block Printing
Oldest printing technique uses carved blocks
Hand Painting
Airbrushing
Batik
Tie dye
Carved block used for hand
block printing
Hand block print
Hand block print