Frommer SBeijingDaybyDay

15Self-guidedTours.38Maps.OneGreatTrip.
Atlast,atravelguidethattellsyouhowtosee
thebestofeverythinginthesmartest,most
time-efficientway.
ThebestofBeijinginone,two,orthreedays
Thematictoursforeveryinterest,schedule,andtaste
Walkingtoursofthecitysbest-lovedneighborhoods
Hundredsofevocativecolorphotos
Bulletedmapsthatshowyouhowtogetfromplacetoplace
Hotels,restaurants,shopping,andnightlifeforallbudgets
Atear-resistantfoldoutmapenclosedinahandyplastic
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Beijing
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Frontcoverphotos,lefttoright:
YannLayma/GettyImages
PanoramaMedia(Beijing)Ltd./AlamyImages
Jean-MarcTruchet/GettyImages
BackcoverphotoPeterSolness/Lonely
PlanetImages
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15SmartWaystoSeetheCity
Findtravelnews&deals,expertadvice,
andconnectwithfellowtravelersat
2ndEdition
beijing opera show http://www.liyuantheatre.net
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time-efficientway.
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32F=0C
Toconvert.....................
Inchestocentimeters...................
Centimeterstoinches....................
Feettometers................................
Meterstofeet..............................
Yardstometers..............................
Meterstoyards.............................
Milestokilometers.......................
Kilometerstomiles........................
multiplyby
2.54
.39
.30
3.28
.91
1.09
1.61
.62
1mile=1.6km
1km=.62mile
1ft.=.30m
1m=3.3ft.
1ounce=28grams
1pound=.4555kilogram
Toconvert.....................
Ouncestograms........................
Gramstoounces..........................
Poundstokilograms......................
Kilogramstopounds...................
multiplyby
28.35
.035
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2.20
1gram=.04ounce
1kilogram=2.2pounds
multiplyby
3.8
.26
.83
1.20
4.55
.22
Toconvert.....................
U.S.gallonstoliters.......................
LiterstoU.S.gallons......................
U.S.gallonstoimperialgallons....
ImperialgallonstoU.S.gallons...
Imperialgallonstoliters..............
Literstoimperialgallons...............
1liter=.26U.S.gallon
1U.S.gallon=3.8liters
FoldFold
dayBYday
2ndEdition
Beijing
byJenLin-Liu
01_630068-ffirs.inddi9/25/1012:22AM
Contents
13FavoriteMoments1
1TheBestFull-DayTours5
TheBestinOneDay6
TheBestinTwoDays10
TheBestinThreeDays14
2TheBestSpecial-InterestTours19
BeijingforContemporaryArtLovers20
RedBeijing24
BeijingbyBicycle28
Beijing:Past,Present&Future34
3TheBestNeighborhoodWalks37
BackLakeRamble38
Wangfujing42
Liulichang48
4TheBestShopping51
ShoppingBestBets52
BeijingShoppingAtoZ57
5TheBestDining69
DiningBestBets70
BeijingRestaurantsAtoZ76
6TheBestNightlife87
NightlifeBestBets88
BeijingNightlifeAtoZ94
7TheBestArts&Entertainment103
Arts&EntertainmentBestBets106
BeijingArts&EntertainmentAtoZ107
02_630068-ftoc.inddii9/25/1012:22AM
8TheBestLodging113
LodgingBestBets114
BeijingHotelsAtoZ120
9TheBestDayTrips&
Excursions131
TheGreatWall&theCommune132
MoreGreatWallExcursions136
Chengde140
Pingyao144
TheSavvyTraveler149
BeforeYouGo150
GettingThere152
GettingAround154
FastFacts154
Beijing:ABriefHistory160
MandarinLanguageGuide164
BeijingMenuReader168
RecommendedBooks174
Toll-FreeNumbers&Websites176
Index177
02_630068-ftoc.inddiii9/25/1012:22AM
Publishedby:
WileyPublishing,Inc.
111RiverSt.
Hoboken,NJ07030-5774
Copyright2011WileyPublishing,Inc.,Hoboken,NewJersey.Allrights
reserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedina
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Act,withouteitherthepriorwrittenpermissionofthePublisher,or
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sionshouldbeaddressedtothePermissionsDepartment,JohnWiley&
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201/748-6008,oronlineathttp://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.
Wiley,theWileyPublishinglogo,andDaybyDayaretrademarksorregis-
teredtrademarksofJohnWiley&Sons,Inc.and/oritsaffiliates.From-
mersisatrademarkorregisteredtrademarkofArthurFrommer.Used
underlicense.Allothertrademarksarethepropertyoftheirrespective
owners.WileyPublishing,Inc.isnotassociatedwithanyproductorven-
dormentionedinthisbook.
ISBN978-0-470-63006-8(paper);978-0-470-92888-2(ebk);
978-0-470-92889-9(ebk);978-0-470-92890-5(ebk).
Editor:IanSkinnari
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contentthatappearsinprintmaynotbeavailableinelectronicformats.
ManufacturedinChina
54321
03_630068-flast.inddiv9/25/1012:22AM
ANotefromtheEditorialDirector
Organizingyourtime.Thatswhatthisguideisallabout.
Otherguidesgiveyoulonglistsofthingstoseeanddoandthen
expectyoutofitthepiecestogether.TheDaybyDayguidesare
different.Theseguidestellyouthebestofeverything,andthen
theyshowyouhowtoseeitinthesmartest,mosttime-efficient
way.Ourauthorshavedesigneddetaileditinerariesorganizedby
time,neighborhood,orspecialinterest.Andeachtourcomeswith
abulletedmapthattakesyoufromstoptostop.
HopingtoclimbtheGreatWall,ortoexploretheForbiddenCity?
PlanningtovisitTiananmenSquare,rideabicyclethroughBei-
jingshutongs,orroamthecourtyardsofLamaTemple?Whatever
yourinterestorschedule,theDaybyDaysgiveyouthesmartest
routetofollow.Notonlydowetakeyoutothetopsightsand
attractions,butweintroduceyoutothosespecialmomentsthat
onlylocalsknowaboutthosefindsthatturntouristsinto
travelers.
TheDaybyDaysarealsoyourtopchoiceifyourelookingforone
completeguideforallyourtravelneeds.Thebesthotelsandres-
taurantsforeverybudget,thegreatestshoppingvalues,thewild-
estnightlifeitsallhere.
Whyshouldyoutrustourjudgment?Becauseourauthorsperson-
allyvisiteachplacetheywriteabout.Theyreanindependentlot
whosaywhattheythinkandwouldneverincludeplacesthey
wouldntrecommendtotheirbestfriends.Theyrealsoopento
suggestionsfromreaders.Ifyoudliketocontactthem,please
sendyourcommentsourwayatfeedback@frommers.com,and
wellpassthemon.
EnjoyyourDaybyDayguidethemosthelpfultravelcompanion
youcanbuy.Andhavethetripofalifetime.
Warmregards,
KellyRegan,EditorialDirector
FrommersTravelGuides
03_630068-flast.inddv9/25/1012:22AM
vi
AbouttheAuthor
JenLin-LiuisafoodandculturewriterandtheowneroftheBeijingcook-
ingschoolBlackSesameKitchen.Mostrecently,sheistheauthorofServe
thePeople:AStir-FriedJourneyThroughChina(Harcourt,2008),which
receivedwidepraisefrompublicationsrangingfromTheNewYorkReview
ofBookstoPeople.AformercorrespondentforNewsweekinShanghai,she
isaregularfoodandartscontributorforTheNewYorkTimes.Shehas
authoredseveralFrommerstravelguidesinAsiaandhaswrittenforThe
WallStreetJournal,Saveur,Food&Wine,andTravel+Leisure.Shefirst
wenttoChinain2000onaFulbrightfellowship,aftergrowingupinsouth-
ernCaliforniaandgraduatingfromColumbiaUniversity.Learnmoreabout
herworkatjenlinliu.com.
Acknowledgments
JenLin-LiuwouldliketothankCandiceLeeforherhelpincreatingthis
book,aswellasSherissePhamforherworkonthepreviousedition.Sheis
alsogratefultoherhusband,Craig,forhisunwaveringsupport,assistance
researchingthenooksandcranniesofBeijing,andforhisphotographsthat
gracethepagesofthisbook.
AnAdditionalNote
Pleasebeadvisedthattravelinformationissubjecttochangeatanytime
andthisisespeciallytrueofprices.Wethereforesuggestthatyouwriteor
callaheadforconfirmationwhenmakingyourtravelplans.Theauthors,edi-
tors,andpublishercannotbeheldresponsiblefortheexperiencesofread-
erswhiletraveling.Yoursafetyisimportanttous,however,sowe
encourageyoutostayalertandbeawareofyoursurroundings.
StarRatings,Icons&Abbreviations
Everyhotel,restaurant,andattractionlistinginthisguidehasbeenranked
forquality,value,service,amenities,andspecialfeaturesusingastar-
ratingsystem.Hotels,restaurants,attractions,shopping,andnightlifeare
ratedonascaleofzerostars(recommended)tothreestars(exceptional).In
additiontothestar-ratingsystem,wealsousea=icontopointoutthe
bestbetsforfamilies.Withineachtour,werecommendcafes,bars,orres-
taurantswhereyoucantakeabreak.Eachofthesestopsappearsina
shadedboxmarkedwithacoffee-cup-shapedbullet
P
.
Thefollowingabbreviationsareusedforcreditcards:
AEAmericanExpressDISCDiscoverVVisa
DCDinersClubMCMasterCard
03_630068-flast.inddvi9/25/1012:22AM
vii
TravelResourcesatFrommers.com
Frommerstravelresourcesdontendwiththisguide.Frommerswebsite,
www.frommers.com,hastravelinformationonmorethan4,000destina-
tions.Weupdatefeaturesregularly,givingyouaccesstothemostcurrent
trip-planninginformationandthebestairfare,lodging,andcar-rentalbar-
gains.Youcanalsolistentopodcasts,connectwithotherFrommers.com
membersthroughouractive-readerforums,shareyourtravelphotos,read
blogsfromguidebookeditorsandfellowtravelers,andmuchmore.
ANoteonPrices
IntheTakeaBreakandBestBetssectionsofthisbook,wehaveuseda
systemofdollarsignstoshowarangeofcostsfor1nightinahotel(the
priceofadouble-occupancyroom)orthecostofanentreeatarestaurant.
Usethefollowingtabletodecipherthedollarsigns:
CostHotelsRestaurants
$under$65under$10
$$$65$130$10$15
$$$$130$260$15$25
$$$$$260$390$25$40
$$$$$over$390over$40
HowtoContactUs
Inresearchingthisbook,wediscoveredmanywonderfulplaceshotels,
restaurants,shops,andmore.Weresureyoullfindothers.Pleasetellus
aboutthem,sowecansharetheinformationwithyourfellowtravelersin
upcomingeditions.Ifyouweredisappointedwitharecommendation,wed
lovetoknowthat,too.Pleasewriteto:
FrommersBeijing,DaybyDay,2ndEdition
WileyPublishing,Inc.111RiverSt.Hoboken,NJ07030-5774
03_630068-flast.inddvii9/25/1012:22AM
04_630068-prechap01.inddviii9/25/1012:36AM
13Favorite
Moments
04_630068-prechap01.indd19/25/1012:36AM
2
1
3
F
a
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i
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e
M
o
m
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t
s
13FavoriteMoments
Previouspage:WalkingtheSimataisectionoftheGreatWall.
Houhai
Qianhai
Xihai
Beihai
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Jingshan
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Zhongshan
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TIANANMEN
SQUARE
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MadeinChina
DaDong
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ArtDistricts
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ZooMarket
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ForbiddenCity
Bodhi
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12
2b
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6a
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04_630068-prechap01.indd29/25/1012:36AM
3
1
3
F
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M
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s
A
tfirstglimpse,
Beijingisntaconventionallyattractivecity.
Butlookalittlemorecloselyandyoucanthelpbutbecapti-
vatedbythiscityscontradictionsandcontrasts.Modernskyscrap-
ersspringupinneighborhoodsoftraditionalcourtyardhomes.
Fancyfusionrestaurantsopenupnexttostreet-sidesnackstalls.
Rolls-Roycesspeedpastbicyclesand,occasionally,donkeycarts.
Amidthechaos,thefull-throttlerushintothefuture,herearesome
ofourfavoritemoments.Savorthem,andyoullcometoloveBeijing
aswehave.
1ClimbtheGreatWall.Thoughit
mightsoundlikeaclich,theGreat
Wallisanabsolutemust.This
ancientChineselandmarkmeanders
todizzyingheights.Avoidthe
crowdsandtackytouristtrapsby
headingtoanunrestoredsection.
Seep133.
2EatPekingduck.Inatownwith
fewlocalspecialties,thissumptuous
dishstandsoutasalegacyofBei-
jingsimperialera.Bepreparedfor
juicyduckmeatandcrispskin
wrappedaroundpaper-thinpan-
cakesflavoredwithasavory-sweet
darksauce.Itsbestexperiencedat
eitherDaDongorMadeinChina.
Seep81.
3Takearomanticwalkaround
HouhaiLake.Thelateafternoon,
justaroundsunset,isthebesttime
totakeastrollaroundthelake.
Tackytouristtoutsgivewaytoan
idyllicsceneofweepingwillows
brushingtheshorewhilelocalsplay
chessortakeadipinwatersof
questionablecleanlinessallpartof
thecharm.Walktothewestern
banksforoptimumtranquillity.See
p11.
4Goflyakite.Jointhelocalsin
thesquarejustbehindtheDrum
Tower,intheheartofBeijingsold
courtyarddistrict.Seep12.
5Browsethegalleriesatcut-
ting-edgeartdistricts.Beijing
boastsoneofthebestartscenesin
theworldatthemomentvisitthe
galleriesatCaochangdiand798to
seewhy.Seep21.
6Spendaneveningrocking
outtolivepunk,indie,andmetal
atoneofBeijingsthrivinglive
musicclubs.Checkouttheyouth
culturesceneatMaoLivehouseor
YugongYushanwhatyouseemight
TheGreatWall.
RockingoutatMaoLivehouse.
04_630068-prechap01.indd39/25/1012:36AM
4
1
3
F
a
v
o
r
i
t
e
M
o
m
e
n
t
s
!GazedownatTiananmen
Squarefromthetopofthe
ForbiddenCity.Fromthisspot,
ChairmanMaomademanyofhis
announcements.Makesuretolook
forhismausoleumonthefarendof
TiananmenSquare.Seep8.
@Getafootmassage.Arecent
boominspasinBeijingmeansthere
aremorechoicesthaneverto
unwindmyfavoritelocalspais
Bodhi,wherebargainmassages
comewithfreedrinksandfood.
Seep46.
#TakeamorningwalkatBeihai
Park.Thisenormousparkcontains
agorgeouslakeandawhiteBud-
dhiststupa,butjustasengrossing
aretheseniorcitizensdoingtaichi
andusinggiganticbrushestoscrawl
Chinesecalligraphyinwateronthe
sidewalks.Seep11.
surpriseyouanddefyyourideasofa
Communistparty.Seep101.
7Haveacocktailatoptheroof
atTheEmperor.Thisnewboutique
hotelhasagreatviewoftheForbid-
denCityanditsmoatitstheper-
fectplacetounwindafteradayof
sightseeing.Seep123.
8Rideabicyclethroughthe
hutongs.Youllfindyourselfsitting
boltuprightonanold-fashionedbike
asyoucoastthroughthebackalleys
(hutongs)ofBeijing.Seep28.
9Escapeforaweekendretreat
attheAmanBeijing.Thisgorgeous
newresortofferspalatialroomsfit
foremperorsandVIPaccesstothe
SummerPalace.Seep120.
0Shoptilyoudrop.Everythingis
madeinChinathesedaysandyes,
itscheaperinChina.Forthoselook-
ingforbargaindesignerthreads,
headtotheZooMarketandthe
RitanOfficeBuilding.Seep62.
OneofBeijingsmanyhutongs.
04_630068-prechap01.indd49/25/1012:36AM
1
TheBestFull-Day
Tours
05_630068-ch01.indd59/25/1012:23AM
6
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T
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s
ORIENTALPLAZA
FORBIDDEN
CITY
TIANANMEN
SQUARE
National
Museum
National
Grand
Theatre
GreatHallof
thePeople
ArrowTower
WorkingPeoples
CulturalPalace
HallofPrayerfor
GoodHarvests
AltarofHeaven
Zhongshan
Park
Dongdan
Park
TempleofHeavenPark
Z
h
o
n
g
h
a
i
W
a
n
g
f
u
j
i
n
g
D
a
j
i
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B
e
i
C
h
i
z
i
D
a
j
i
e
D
o
n
g
h
u
a
n
g
c
h
e
n
g
g
e
N
a
n
J
i
e
B
e
i
H
e
y
a
n
D
a
j
i
e
DengshikouDajie
B
e
i
C
h
a
n
g
J
i
e
N
a
n
C
h
a
n
g
J
i
e
JinyuHutong
DongChanganJie
H
u
a
l
o
n
g
J
i
e
D
o
n
g
s
i
N
a
n
D
a
j
i
e
D
o
n
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d
a
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B
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D
a
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Z
h
e
n
g
y
i
L
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T
a
i
j
i
c
h
a
n
g
D
a
j
i
e
QianmenXiDajie
QianmenDongDajieChongwenmenXiDajie
C
h
o
n
g
w
e
n
m
e
n
n
e
i
D
a
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C
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o
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w
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n
m
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n
w
a
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D
a
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Q
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m
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D
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ZhushikouX
iD
a
jie
Q
i
n
a
n
D
a
j
i
e
Z
h
u
s
h
ikouDongDajie
YonganLu
TiantanLu
T
i
a
n
t
a
n
D
o
n
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L
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C
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o
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w
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w
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D
a
j
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e
XiChanganJie
Wangfujing
Dengshikou
Dongdan
Chongwenmen
Ciqikou
Tiantandongmen
Tiananmen
Dong
TiananmenXi
Qianmen
DONGCHENG
1
5
2
3
4
TempleofHeaven
TiananmenSquare
ChairmanMaoMemorialHall
ForbiddenCity
YinBarattheEmperorHotel
1
3
2
5
4
1/2mi 0
01/2km
TheBestinOneDay
Previouspage:TheNewSummerPalace.
05_630068-ch01.indd69/25/1012:23AM
7
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TravelTip
WiththeexpansionoftheBeijing
metrosystemoverthelastfew
years,takingthesubwayhasnever
beeneasier.Mostdestinationsare
withinafewminuteswalkofasub-
waystop,andmasstransitbuffswill
findoneofthecheapestridesinthe
world,at2perride.Anadded
bonusisthatyouwonthavetodeal
withBeijingshorrendoustraffic.On
theotherhand,ifyouretraveling
outsideofrushhours(weekdays
810amand47pm)andhavethe
nameofyourdestinationwrittenin
Chinese(asmosttaxidriversdont
speakEnglish),taxiswhichare
alsoinexpensiveandplentiful
mightbethewaytogo.
woodenhall,withitstriple-layered
cylindricalblue-tiledroof,isperhaps
themostrecognizableemblemof
Chineseimperialarchitectureout-
sideoftheForbiddenCity.Themain
hallis38m(125ft.)highand30m
(98ft.)indiameterandheresthe
kickeritwasconstructedwithout
asinglenail.
@
1
1
2hr.;arriveat7am
tocatchthemorningbuzz.1Tiantan
DongluJia.
y
010/6702-8866.Admis-
sionparkonlyAprOct15;NovMar
10.AccesstoallsitesAprOct35;
NovMar30.Parkdaily6am8pm
(parkcloses1hr.earlierinthewin-
ter);sitesdaily8am4pm(sitesclose
30min.earlierinwinter).Metro:
Tiantandongmen;exitstationonthe
southsideandtakea10cabrideto
thetempleseastgate.
2TiananmenSquare
(TiananmenGuangchang).
Tiananmenisamerestripling
1=TempleofHeaven
(TiantanGongyuan).Justafter
dawn,regularparkgoerspractice
taichi,kungfu,groupdancing,or
giantcalligraphyonthisparks
greeneryandpavedwalkways.
Youllprobablyhearbirdsandcrick-
etschirpinghappilythroughtheir
cagesastheirowners(mostly
retiredelderlymen)takethemout
forawalk.Theparkishuge;dont
missQianDian(HallofPrayer
forGoodHarvests).Althoughthe
buildingsoriginsdatefrom1420,
thecurrentstructureisareplica
builtin1889aftertheoriginal
burnedtotheground.Thecircular
I
fyouhaveonly1dayinBeijing,bepreparedtokickintocul-
turaloverdrive.Weregoingtotakeyoutothemajorhistorical
sitesthatplayedwitnesstosomeofChinasmostdefiningmoments.
Thetouritselfisastudyinjuxtapositions:Youllseeanimperialpal-
ace,anancientsymbolofwealthandopulence,standingnexttoBei-
jingsinfamous,starklyCommunist-stylestructures.Eachstoponthe
tourrecallsamomentinChinaslongandvariedpast,andthefren-
ziedactivityswirlingaroundyouateveryturnisareminderthatthe
citysentranceontotheinternationalscenehasjustbegun.START:
TempleofHeaven,westgate.
TheHallofPrayerforGoodHarvests.
05_630068-ch01.indd79/25/1012:23AM
8
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5
YinBaratTheEmperor
Hotel.Sipacocktailwhilewatching
thesunsetbehindthesparkling
yellowroofsoftheForbiddenCity.
33QihelouSt,EmperorHotel.
y
010/6526-5566.Opendaily
AprOct3:30pmmidnight.$$.
importantplaceinhistory,itsoddto
seehimoccupyingsolittlephysical
space.Sure,therearemorecritical
issuestothinkaboutwhenviewing
Mao,butyouregivenverylittletime
forreflectionasyouarequicklyshuf-
fledaroundtheropedbarrier.See
KeepingUpAppearances,p25.
@
20min.SouthendofTiananmen
SquareTuesSun811:30am,some-
timesalso24pm(usuallyTues,
Thurs).Admissionfree.Bagstorage
acrossthestreet,directlywest,for3
perpiece.Metro:TiananmenEastor
West.Walktowardthesouth-central
endofTiananmenSquare.
4ForbiddenCity(Gu
Gong).Theverynameofthishis-
toricsiteinducesgoosebumps.You
areenteringaplacethatissovast,
sograndandimpressive,thatmere
civilianswereoncedeniedaccess;
thisisBeijingsBuckinghamPalace
orVersailles.
comparedtootherChineseemblems
thatdatebackmanycenturies.The
squarewasbuiltinthe1950s,after
Maoclearedawayalltheoldgov-
ernmentministries.Thankfully,cash
ranoutbeforehealsorealizedplans
topressdownthefeudalForbid-
denCity.
@
30min.Itsbesttotake
thesubwayorapproachthesquare
byfoot,astaxisarentallowedto
stopinfront.Located,literally,inthe
centerofBeijing.Freeadmission.
Metrostops:TiananmenEastor
TiananmenWest.
3ChairmanMaoMemorial
Hall(MaoZhuxiJinnianTang).
Imalwayssurprisedbyhowsmall
Maolooks(officialsources
statethatMaowas
180cmtall,orjustunder
5ft.11in.).For
amanwho
holds
suchan
AsideviewoftheForbiddenCity,protectedbyabronzelion.
SculpturesinfrontoftheChairmanMao
MemorialHall.
05_630068-ch01.indd89/25/1012:23AM
9
T
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O
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ShenwuGate
HallofPreserving
Harmony
HallofMiddle
Harmony
Qianqing
Gate
Hallof
Clocks
Hallof
GreatHarmony
Hongyi
Pavilion
Tiren
Pavilion
Zhendu
Gate
Zhaode
Gate
Gateof
GreatHarmony
Xihua
Gate
Donghua
Gate
Palaceof
HeavenlyPurity
PalaceofEarthly
Tranquility
Hallof
Paintings
Imperial
Library
P
a
l
a
c
e
M
o
a
t
P
a
l
a
c
e
M
o
a
t
IMPERIAL
GARDEN
4A
4B
4E
4D
4C
ForbiddenCity
SomeoftheForbiddenCitysmost
charmingareasliealongitseastern
axis.Theticketboothissouthof
QianqingMen.Afterentering,walk
straighttotheBNineDragon
Screen,aglazedtilewallmeantto
protecttheemperorfrommalevo-
lentspirits.Directlyoppositeisthe
CHallofJewelry,housingimpe-
rialsealsandheadpieces.Continue
tothehighlightofthearea,D
NingshouGongHuayuan.Thisis
wheretheQianlongemperor(ruled
173596)wasmeanttospendhis
retirement.Wateroncefilledthe
windingtroughcarvedintothefloor
ofthemainpavilion.Acupofwine
wouldbesentdownthestream,and
thepersonnearesttowhereit
stoppedwouldhavetocomposea
poemordrinkthewine.Tothenorth
isELeshouTang,which
housesabeautifulpavilionbuilt
entirelyofsandalwood.Inthefinal
hall,YiheXuan,youllfindFZhen
FeiJing(WellofthePearlConcu-
bine).ThePearlConcubinewasone
oftheGuangxuemperors(ruled
18751908)favorites.EmpressCixi
hadherthrowndownthiswellas
theywerefleeingintheaftermathof
theBoxerRebellion.Accordingtosev-
eralaccounts,thegirlangeredCixi
whenshesuggestedGuangxustay
andfacetheforeigntroops.
@
3hr.
NorthsideofTiananmenSquare
acrossChanganDajie.
y
010/6513-
2255.Admission60AprOct;40
NovMar.Metro:TiananmenWest.
AroofdetailattheForbiddenCity.
05_630068-ch01.indd99/25/1012:23AM
10
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H
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a
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B
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B
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T
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T
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Y
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D
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B
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D
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N
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a
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A
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t
M
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u
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o
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C
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a
J
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P
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B
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P
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D
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C
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N
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J
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s
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Q
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J
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G
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X
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D
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H
o
u
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a
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N
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Y
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DianmenwaiDajie
JiugulouDajie
Y
a
n
g
f
a
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g
H
u
t
o
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g
DeshengmenneiDajie
D
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f
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J
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D
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X
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D
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D
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D
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D
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Z
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D
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T
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XihuangchenggenBeiJie
X
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D
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W
e
n
j
i
n
J
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e
DianmenneiDajie
JingshanXiJie
JingshanDongJie
G
u
l
o
u
D
o
n
g
D
a
j
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e
J
i
a
o
d
a
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k
o
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D
o
n
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D
a
j
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G
u
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a
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J
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D
o
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z
h
i
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N
e
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D
a
j
i
e
F
u
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H
u
t
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n
g
JiaodaokouNanDajie
AndingmenNeiDajie
J
i
a
o
d
a
o
k
o
u
T
o
u
t
i
a
o
DongzhimenBeiXiaojie
YonghegongDajie
DongsiBeiDajie
DongsiBeiDajie
D
o
n
g
s
i
X
i
D
a
j
i
e
Q
i
a
n
l
i
a
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g
H
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t
o
n
g
MeishuguanHoujie
D
o
n
g
s
i
T
i
a
o
NanluoguXiang
BeiHeyanDajie
F
a
n
j
i
a
H
u
t
o
n
g
AimenJie
3
2
1
4
5
6
B
e
i
h
a
i
P
a
r
k
Q
i
a
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h
a
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H
o
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a
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x
c
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s
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C
a
f
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T
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L
a
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14 236 5
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2
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k
m
TheBestinTwoDays
05_630068-ch01.indd109/25/1012:23AM
11
T
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T
w
o
D
a
y
s
shore,youwillfindtheDaciZhenru
BaoDian,aMingdynastyhallhous-
ingthreehugestatuesofSakya-
muni,theAmithabaBuddhaand
YaoshiFo.Nearby,theNine
DragonScreenisamagnificent
stretchofcoloredglazetilethat
onceguardedtheentranceofa
now-vanishedtemple.Continueeast
totheparksnorthgateandexit
ontoPinganDadao.
@
23hr.;best
before10am.BeihaiParkssouth
entranceisjustwestofthenorth
gateoftheForbiddenCityatWenjin
Jie1,Xi1ChengQu.
y
010/6404-
0610.Admission10AprOct;5
NovMar;10additionalfor
entrancetothedagoba.Metro:
Zhangzizhonglu.
2=Qianhai/Houhai
(TheLakeDistrict).Qianhaiand
Houhaisbanks,nowoverflowing
withalfrescobars,cafes,andthe
oddcurioshop,wereonceexclusive
areasfornoblesandmerchants.
1
BeihaiPark(Beihai
Gongyuan).Setaroundalakedug
inthe12thcentury,BeihaiParkfirst
begantoserveasanimperialsum-
merplaygroundduringtheJin
dynasty.TheYuandynastys(1206
1368)imperialpalaceoncestoodon
theeasternshoreofBeihai;today
itssoleremnantisTuancheng(Cir-
cularCity,orthesmallestcityof
China),asmallcitadelonaraised
platformwhosemostnotablestruc-
ture,ChengguangDian,housesa
1.5m(5-ft.)statueofBuddhacrafted
fromBurmesewhitejade.Also
housedinTuanchengisamassive
jadeurnthatonceheldKublai
Khanswine.NorthofTuancheng
(acrossthebridge)isthewhite,
flask-shapeddagoba(astructure
builtoverBuddhistrelics),visible
fromvarioushighpointsinBeijing.
AsteepclimbthroughYonganSi
(TempleofEternalPeace)leadsto
thedagoba.Thetemplebuildings
containstatuesofBuddhas,bodhi-
sattvas,andPanchenandDalai
Lamas.Manyofthepathsdownthe
othersideofthehillleadtodead
endssoitsbesttoreturntheway
youcameandheadbacktothe
bridge.Youcanwandertothenorth
shorebyfootorrowyourselfacross
thelakebyboat.Astandjustwest
ofthebridgerentsbattery-operated
motorboats,pedalboats,androw-
boats,butonlyrowboatscanbe
returnedatstandsontheotherside
ofthelake(otherboatshavetobe
returnedtotheplaceofrental).A
five-personrowboatis30perhour
plusa200deposit.Onthenorth
I
fyouhave2days,spendyourfirstdayasdetailedinTheBest
inOneDay(p7).Onyoursecondday,wellshowyouBeijings
moreplayfulside,suchasthesummerpalacesthatonceservedas
pleasuregroundsfortherulingclassandthelakeswhereMaotook
leisurelyswims.Asyouvisitthestopsonthistour,youllprobably
noticethatthelocalsaremovingatalessfrenziedpacethantheir
downtowncounterparts.START:SouthentranceofBeihaiPark.
TheNineDragonScreeninBeihaiPark.
05_630068-ch01.indd119/25/1012:23AM
12
3
ExcuseCaf.Justeastof
thebackentranceoftheDrum
Toweristhiscozycafeserving
excellentespressos.68Zhonglou
WanHutong.
y
010/6401-9867.$.
T
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e
B
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F
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D
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T
o
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r
s
neartheLotusLaneentrance.
@
1
1
2hr.DianmenwaiDajie,enter
nearLotusLaneandturnright.Free
admission.Ifyouarecomingfrom
Beihaisnorthgate,theentranceto
Qianhaiisacrossthestreet.
Priorto1911,onlypeoplewithcon-
nectionstotheimperialfamilywere
permittedtomaintainhousesand
conductbusinesshere.Thepresent-
daycommercialfareonthemain
bankscanbewearying,butthe
areasbackalleysarestillripefor
exploration.Walknortheastalong
QianhaiNanyanuntilyoucometo
YindingQiao(SilverIngotBridge),
thebridgethatmarkstheboundary
betweenQianhaiandHouhai.From
hereyoucanwatchtheboatsdrift-
ingalongbelow,severalofwhich
havezitherplayersstrummingclas-
sicssuchasMoonRiverforfor-
eignpassengers.Ifyouwantyour
ownSino-Westernserenade,you
canrentboatsfromthesmalldock
BoatingonHouhaiLake.
AperformanceattheDrumTower.
4DrumTower(GuLou).We
recommendclimbingonlyonetow-
erssetofsteepstairs,preferably
thoseoftheDrumTower.Theupper
chamberhasreplicasoftraditional
drums,whichareshowcasedinper-
formancesseveraltimesperhour.
Outside,ifitsaclearday,youllsee
fantasticviewsofHouhaiLaketo
thewest.
@
1
2hr.9Zhonglouwan
Linzi.Admission20.Walknortheast
fromYindingQiaoandturnrightat
Moscowrestaurant,ontoYandai
Xiejie.Walktotheendofthisalley
untilyoucometothemainstreet,
DianmenwaiDajie.TheDrumTower
isdirectlynorth,ortoyourleft.
5LamaTemple(Yonghe-
gong).Thoughoftenreferredto
astheLamaTemple,Yonghegong
meansThePalaceofPeaceand
Harmony.Onaquietday,youcan
roamaroundthemanycourtyards
05_630068-ch01.indd129/25/1012:23AM
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s
6
ConfuciusTemple(Kong
Miao).Onatree-shadedstreet
westofYonghegong,youll
cometoChinassecond
largestConfuciusTemple.
Twostelaeatthefront
instructyou,insixdiffer-
entlanguages,topark
yourhorse(inChinese:
Xiamabei,PleaseDis-
mount).Thetempleisthe
busiestbeforenational
universityentranceexam-
inations,whenstudents
andparentsdescendin
drovestoseekoutthe
GreatSagesassistance.
Themainhall,Dacheng
Dian,isthefocalpoint
forstudents,whomust
throwtheirincenseon
theshrineratherthan
burnitbecauseoffirereg-
ulations.
@
20min.13Guo
ZiJian.
y
010/6404-2407.Admis-
sion10.Metro:Yonghegong.Walk
acrossthestreetfromtheLama
Temple,headingtothewestsideof
YonghegongDajie.Turnrightintoa
streetmarkedwithanarch.
ataleisurelypace,exploring
thetemplesimpressiveoffer-
ings,suchasa6m(20-ft.)
bronzestatueofTsong-
kapa(13571419),
founderofthenow
dominantschoolof
TibetanBuddhism,
housedinFalunDian
(HalloftheWheelof
Law).Youllfindthetem-
plesmostprizedpos-
sessioninthelastofthe
majorhalls,WanfuGe
(TowerofTenThousand
Happiness).There,stand-
ing18m(59ft.)tall,isthe
Tibetan-stylestatueof
Maitreya(thefuture
Buddha),carvedfrom
asinglepieceofwhite
sandalwoodandtrans-
portedallthewayfrom
TibetasagifttoQianlong
fromtheseventhDalaiLama.
@
1
hr.Toavoidcrowds,delaylunchand
tourthesitenoon1pm.12Yonghe-
gongDajie(entranceonthesouth
sideofthecomplex).
y
010/6404-
4499.Admission25.NovMar
9am4pm;AprOct9am4:30pm.
Metro:Yonghegong.
StatueofConfucius.
ViatheSilkRoute,BuddhismreachedChinaduringthefirst
century.Overtheyears,ithasbeendenouncedasabarbarian
religionandbanned.Lamaism,orTibetanBuddhism,beganto
dominateotherformsofBuddhisminChinawiththearrivalofthe
ManchuQingin1644.FoundedbyTsongkapa(see5,above),
TibetanBuddhismskeylamas(enlightenedseniormonkswhohave
passedqualifications)arethe14thDalaiLama,wholivesinforced
exileinIndia,andthePanchenLama,whosecurrentreincarnation,
DedhunChoekyiNyima,wasonly6yearsoldwhentheDalaiLama
recognizedhim,in1995,promptinghisarrestbytheChinesegov-
ernment.Heisknownastheworldsyoungestpoliticalprisoner.
TheMajorLamas
05_630068-ch01.indd139/25/1012:23AM
14
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F
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a
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T
o
u
r
s
TheBestinThreeDays
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CaijingDongLu
S
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u
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L
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ZhongguancunBeiDajie
YuanmingyuanXiLu
ChapengLu
XiangshanNanLu
X
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s
h
a
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L
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YiheyuanLu
SuzhouJie
B
a
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o
u
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i
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e
y
u
a
n
L
u
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r
l
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a
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a
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L
u
05_630068-ch01.indd149/25/1012:23AM
15
T
h
e
B
e
s
t
i
n
T
h
r
e
e
D
a
y
s
Yuan(GardenofEternalSpring).
Parkmanagementandthedistrict
governmentrecentlycameunder
environmentalfirewhenthey
decidedtolinetheparkslakeswith
impermeableplastictarp(thereby
destroyingnaturalhabitatsandcre-
atinganunderwaterworldofanaer-
obicsludge)tosaveonwaterbills
andraisewaterlevelsforaduck-
boatbusiness.Thelakeshavesince
beenrestoredbutaredrainedinthe
winter.Duringthewarmerseasons,
stakeoutaspotononeofthepavil-
ionsoverlookingthelakeandtakein
thegorgeousviewofcolorful
lotusesandtheirgiantleavesfloat-
ingonthewaterssurface.
@
1
1
2
hr.;headoverjustbeforelunchto
avoidcrowds.QinghuaXil28.
y
010/6262-8501.Admission10;
1
PekingUniversity(Beijing
DaxueorBeida).Chinasmost
famousuniversity,commonlyknown
asBeida,hastraditionallyhoused
studentactivists,includingsome
oftheleadersoftheinfamous
Tiananmendemonstrationsof1989
(ironically,thecampushasaroad
calledMinzhuLu,DemocracyRoad).
Youcanponderthecampushistori-
calsignificancefromtherockyseats
surroundingWeiminghu(Weiming
Lake).Betteryet,ifyouarevisitingin
winter,rentsomeskatesandtakea
spinaroundthefrozenlake.
@
45min.
5YiheyuanLu.Freeadmission;admis-
sionmayberegulatedduringpoliti-
callysensitivetimessuchasJune4,
theanniversaryoftheTiananmen
massacre.Entertheuniversityfromits
eastgate.Metro:Wudaokou(Beidas
eastgateisabout3.2km/2mileswest
ofthemetrostop).Frommetrostop,
taketaxi.
2=OldSummerPalace
(YuanmingYuan).Comprisedof
threeseparateimperialgardens,the
ruinsatYuanmingYuanarehaunt-
inglybeautiful.Althoughthisisa
morerecentconstructionthanthe
NewSummerPalace(seebullet4
below),itisoftenreferredtoasthe
OldSummerPalacebecauseitwas
notrebuiltaftertheFrenchandBrit-
ishtroopsburneditdownduring
theSecondOpiumWarof185660.
Afewrestorationshavebegun,
includingWanhuaZhen(10,000
FlowersMaze),anicelyrecon-
structedlabyrinthintheChangchun
A
ftertouringthecentralsitescoveredinTheBestinTwo
Days,itstimetogetawayfromthecityscore.Thethirdfull-
daytourventuresintothefarnorthwestcornerofBeijing.Thisdis-
trictishometoChinastoptwouniversities,theself-styledHarvard
andMITofChina,aswellastheBeijingForeignLanguageandCul-
tureUniversity(BLCU),whereyoucanfindforeignstudentsfromall
overtheworldlearningChinese.Nestledamongallthestudentbars,
Wi-Ficafes,andintellectualactivity,areacoupleofimperialpalaces.
START:EastgateofPekingUniversity.
PekingUniversity.
05_630068-ch01.indd159/25/1012:23AM
16
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3
AmanResort.Itsabitofa
splurge,butgiventheslimpickings
innorthwesternBeijing,thisisan
idealplaceforarelaxedafternoon
teaservednexttoakoipondinthe
citysmostluxuriousresort.1Gong-
menqianLu,easternsideofthe
SummerPalace.
y
010/5987-9999.
$$$.
passtheTowerofBuddhistFra-
grance,nestledatopLongevityHill.
Thesteepclimbtothetopis
rewardedwithagreatviewover
sweepingyellowroofsandthelakes
Seventeen-ArchBridge.
@
2hr.19
XinjiangongmenLu.
y
010/6288-
1144.Admission30forthegrounds,
60fortheall-inclusivelianpiao
AprOct;20and50,respectively
NovMar.
5
FragrantHills(XiangShan
Gongyuan).Thisoutdoorplay-
groundhasbeenaroundsince
1168,covering160hectares(395
acres).Thehighestpeakresembles
anincenseburner.Takethechairlift
tothetopforaleisurelylookover
Beijingsnorthwestdistrict,30
one-way,50round-trip.Themulti-
tudeofpools,pavilions,temples,vil-
las,andancienttreesmakeitan
idyllicpicnicspotfarremovedfrom
thedinofthecitytraffic.In1949,
MaoZedongstayedherewhilecom-
mandingtheYangtzeCrossingcam-
paign,whichclinchedvictoryover
theNationalistforces.Thebuilding
thatplayedwitnesstothisshining
momentinCommunisthistoryis
25toenterXiYangLou.NovMar
7:30am5:30pm,Apr7am6:30pm;
MayAug7am7pm;SeptOct
7am6:30pm.
RuinsoftheOldSummerPalace.
TheNewSummerPalace.
4NewSummerPalace
(YiheYuan).Thispalaceparkcov-
ersroughly290hectares(717acres)
andisborderedbyKunmingLakein
thesouthandLongevityHill(Wan-
shouShan)inthenorth.Thecollec-
tionofhalls,pavilions,andtemples
besideKunmingLakewasafavorite
hauntofdowagerempressCixi
(18351908),whopreferredittothe
ForbiddenCity.TheHallofHappi-
nessandLongevitywasCixisfor-
merresidence,firstbuiltin1750
andrebuiltin1887.Walkwestand
youwillentertheaptlynamedLong
Corridor,whichzigzagsfor728m
(2,388ft.),culminatingintheBoatof
PurityandEase.Theboatisahull-
shapedstructurecarvedoutofrock.
Itactsasabaseforatwo-storymar-
blesuperstructurethatnowhouses
cafesservinginstantcoffeeand
snacks.Onthewaytotheboat,youll
05_630068-ch01.indd169/25/1012:23AM
17
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e
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s
t
i
n
T
h
r
e
e
D
a
y
s
knownasJueshengSi(Awakened
LifeTemple),butclearlythere
wasntenoughawakeninggoingon,
soa47-tonbellwastransported
hereonicesledsin1743.Thethird
hallontherighthousesclangers
garneredfromaroundBeijing.Some
weredonatedbyeunuchswishing
therelevantemperorlonglife,with
nowmaintainedasashrine.
@
1hr.
BeijingXibeijiaoXishanDonglu.
y
010/6259-1155.Admission10
AprNov;5DecMar.
6=DaZhongSi.ThisQing
dynasty(16441911/12)templenow
housestheAncientBellMuseum
(GuZhongBowuguan).Itwasonce
Seventeen-ArchBridgeandKunmingLake.
TheplacetohoneyourChineselanguageskillsistheWudaokou
area,withitsbars,Wi-Ficafes,internationalgroceryshops,and
languageschoolscateringtotheforeignstudentswholivenearby.
BesidesBeida(seePekingUniversity,above),TsinghuaUniversity
andtheBeijingLanguageandCultureUniversityarealsonearby.All
threeuniversitiesattracthordesofinternationalstudentswhotypi-
callyspendasemesterortwoabroadtostudyChinese.Butifyou
donthave4monthstodevotetoMandarinstudy,youarebetter
offatoneofthemanyprivatelanguageschoolsonChengfuLuthat
offerdrop-inclasses.IrecommendDiqiucun(GlobalVillage;35
ChengfuLu,northwestofthemetrostop;
y
010/6253-7737).They
have1-and2-hourlistening,speaking,andreadingclassesthatrun
daily,plusplentyofbeginnerclasses.Classesarecheap:just30
perclass,32to64forthetextbook.Ifyourelucky,youllcatch
onethatisjuststarting.Otherwise,youllhavetobraveabegin-
nersclassthatisoneormorechaptersintothebook.Theyalso
offerintermediateandadvancedclasses(colloquialChinesefor
businessmeetings,anyone?).
Chinese101
05_630068-ch01.indd179/25/1012:23AM
18
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s
7
SculptinginTime.Head
toWudaokou,acoffeeshop/bar/
bookstoreareathathassprungup
aroundthemetrostopofthesame
name.Itisahubofactivity,where
foreignstudentscometohangout,
study,andparty.SculptinginTimeis
intheheartofallthisyoungenthusi-
asmandservessomeexcellentcof-
feewithfreewirelessInternetto
boot.Bldg.12HuaqingJiayuan1
ChengfuLu,justwestofWudaokou
metrostop.
y
010/8286-7026.$.
NewYearsEve.Visitorsrubthe
handlesoftheQianlongemperors
oldwashbasin,andclimbupnarrow
stepstomakeawishwhilethrowing
coinsthroughaholeinthetopof
thebell.ButitisnolongertheKing
ofBellsthathonornowgoesto
the50-tonbellhousedintheAltar
totheCentury(ZhonghuaShijiTan),
constructedin1999toprovethat
China,too,couldwastemoneyon
themillennium.
@
25min.
y
010/
6255-0819.Admission10;9am4pm.
2toclimbtheBellTower.31ABei
SanHuanXiLu.Metro:DaZhongSi.
hundredsofdonorsnames
scrawledontheirsides.Themain
attractionishousedintherearhall,
carvedinsideandoutwith230,000
ChineseandSanskritcharacters.
Thebigbelltollsonceayear,on
ThechalkboardmenuatSculptingin
Time.
FragrantHillsPark.
05_630068-ch01.indd189/25/1012:23AM
2
TheBestSpecial-
InterestTours
06_630068-ch02.indd199/25/1012:24AM
20
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B
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e
c
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T
o
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BeijingforContemporaryArt
Lovers
7
9
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JiuxianqiaoRoad
7
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7
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a
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J
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9
8
R
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a
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797MainStreet
707Street
706NorthFirstStreet
7
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6
R
o
a
d
718Street
798WestStreet
798MainFirstStreet
798MainSecondStreet
798EastStreet
S
e
v
e
n
s
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a
r
R
o
a
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SevenstarWestStreet
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Previouspage:SunYat-sensuitin798ArtCenter.
06_630068-ch02.indd209/25/1012:24AM
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s
TravelTip
Taxisarentallowedintothecomplex,
soyoullhavetowalk3longblocks
onthenumberfourmainroaduntil
youseethesignforTimezone8,an
artbookstoreonyourleft.
considerablyinthelastfewyears,
thisiswherelocalartistssetupthe
areasfirststudiosandgalleriesin
2001.Fromthemainroad,turn
1Timezone8Bookstore.
Hereyoullfindthemostup-to-date
informationonthedistrictsartgal-
leryopeningsandclosings,andthe
areasmostcurrentmaps.Itsworth
beginningyourtourheresince
thingschangeveryquicklyatDan-
shanzi.
@
10min.4JiuxianqiaoLu,
D03-3-1.
y
010/8456-0336.www.
timezone8.com.Daily10am8pm.
2TheHubofthe798
DashanziArtDistrict.Whilethe
areaofartgallerieshasgrown
B
eijingisChinasmostvibrantartistichub,theplacewhere
avant-gardeartistsandcuratorsrubshoulderswithinternational
artdealersandcritics.TheepicenterofChinascontemporaryartworld
isthe798DashanziArtDistrict.Since2001,artistshaveconvertedthis
clusterofabandonedBauhaus-stylefactoriesintothecountrystopstu-
diosandgalleries.WellshowyounotonlyBeijingsbestcontemporary
artworks,butalsothebestspacesforviewingthem.Avoidtheareaon
Mondays,whenmanyofthegalleriesareclosed.START:Taxito4Jiuxian-
qiaoLu.
Timezone8Bookstore.
Gallery798Space.
06_630068-ch02.indd219/25/1012:24AM
22
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T
o
u
r
s
museum,wassetupby
apairofartcollectors
fromEurope.Itfeatures
thecitysmostavant-
gardeexhibitions.
@
1hr.
y
010/
8459-9269.4Jiux-
ianqiaoLu.www.
ucca.org.cn.Tues
Sun10am7pm.
3
BeijingCom-
muneGallery.
Thisrecentlyopened
galleryrepresents
establishedChinese
contemporaryartistsbut
alsotakeschancesand
displaysyoungemerging
Chineseartists.
@
15min.
y
010/
8456-2862.4JiuxianqiaoLu.www.
beijingcommune.com.Daily
10am6pm.
4LongMarchSpace.Youwill
findprovoking,andofteninterac-
tive,installationsatthisgigantic
warehousespace.
@
15min.
y
010/5978-9768.4JiuxianqiaoLu,
D01-0-1.www.longmarchspace.com.
TuesSun11am7pm.
right,anddownthe
corridoronyourright,
youllseethej
798PhotoGal-
lery.
y
010/
6438-1784.4
JiuxianqiaoLu,
Taoci3Alley.
www.798photo
gallery.cn.Daily
10am6pm.On
yourleftisthe
Bauhaus-style,
high-ceilinged
k798Space,
formerlyusedasa
militaryfactory,now
hostingartandmulti-
mediainstallationsand
performances.
y
010/6437-6248.4
JiuxianqiaoLu,Taoci3Alley.
www.798space.com.TuesSun
11am6pm.Fartherdownthehall-
wayonyourrightisthelBeijing-
TokyoArtProjects,whichoften
hostsavant-gardeinstallations.
@
30min.
y
010/8457-3245.4Jiux-
ianqiaoLu,E02-0-10.www.Tokyo-
gallery.com.TuesSun10:30am
6:30pm(to5:30pmNovMar).The
mUllensCenterforContem-
poraryArt,Beijingspremierart
UllensCenterofContemporaryArt.
AringdisplayatYin
Shu+EAWest.
06_630068-ch02.indd229/25/1012:24AM
23
"Hello,ImanArtStudent
BeleeryofanyEnglish-speaking
youngsterswhoclaimtobeartstu-
dentsandoffertotakeyoutoaspe-
cialexhibitoftheirwork.Thisisa
scam.Theart,whichyouwillbecom-
pelledtobuy,almostalwaysconsists
ofassembly-linereproductionsof
famous(ornotsofamous)paintings
offeredatpricesseveraldozentimes
higherthantheiractualvalue.
B
e
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f
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7
CafPause.Thisdelightfully
cozycafeisownedbytwoEuro-
peanexpatsandserveslattesin
cupsthesizeofyourhead.Wealso
lovethefusion-stylemunchies,such
asthespinachandcheesedump-
lings.2JiuxianqiaoLu.
y
010/6431-
6214.$.
5YinShu+EAWest.Local
artistManKaihuicreatesgutsyear-
ringsandnecklaces.Weloveher
unique,industrial-lookingjewelry,
whichstandsoutinacountry
knownformorefemininestyles.
Thisboutiquealsocontainslocally
designedsweatersanddresseswith
asoftertouch.
@
15min.
y
010/
6437-3432.4JiuxianqiaoLu,Tues
Sun10am6pm.
6FaurschouGallery.Head-
quarteredinCopenhagen,this
large,airygallerydisplaysamixof
internationalandChinesecontem-
poraryart.
@
15min.
y
010/5978-
9316.2JiuxianqiaoLu.www.
faurschou.com.TuesSun
10am6pm.
FaurschouGallery.
TheartisoftenintriguingatLongMarch
Space.
06_630068-ch02.indd239/25/1012:24AM
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RedBeijing
TIANANMEN
SQUARE
FORBIDDEN
CITY
NationalArt
Museumof
China
National
Museum
NationalGrandTheatre
GreatHallofthePeople
ArrowTower
WorkingPeoples
CulturalPalace
DrumTower
Qianhai
Beihai
Z
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a
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Nanhai
JingshanPark
Zhongshan
Park
BeihaiPark
DONGCHENG
Wangfujing
Tiananmen
Dong
TiananmenXi
Qianmen
ZhushikouDongDajie
X
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JingshanQianJie
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DianmenXiDajie
DianmenDongDajieZhangziZhongLu
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1
3
4
5
6
7
ProtectedSlogan
BlackSesameKitchen
MonumenttothePeoples
Heroes
GreatHallofthePeople
UndergroundCity
RedCapitalClub
7
1
2
2
4
3
6
5
1/2mi 0
01/2km
06_630068-ch02.indd249/25/1012:24AM
25
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e
d
B
e
i
j
i
n
g
authorofthisveryguide)willteach
youhowtomakeChairmanMaos
favoritedish,hongshaorou,by
request.NextToWigglyJigglyPub.
At3HeizhimaHutong(callforexact
directions).
y
0136/9147-4408.Cook-
ingclasseseveryThurs11am1:30pm
andSat14pm.DinnerseveryFri
710pm.Reservationsrequired.Pri-
vatebookingsalsoaccepted.
3ChairmanMaoMemorial
Hall(MaoZhuxiJinnianGuan).
Thebrightlighting,Maossomber
state,andtheChinesetouristspush-
ingyoufrombehindcombineforan
unsettlingexperience.Youllbe
rushedthroughtheroomatabrisk
pace,butnotsobriskthatMaostint
andsuspiciouslywaxypallorgo
unnoticed.
1
ProtectedSlogan.Nanluogux-
iangisahistoricalhutong,oralley,
thatunderwentamassiveface-lifta
fewyearsago.Duringrenovations,
anoriginalCulturalRevolutionslogan
paintedonabuildingsbrickfacewas
uncovered.Whiletherestofthealley
wastreatedtoafreshcoatofsomber
graypaint,theresidentcommunity
groupdecidedthatthesloganshould
bepreserved.Thered-paintedchar-
actersstate:Learnindustryfrom
Daqing,agriculturefromthemodel
villages,andthewholenationshould
learnfromthePeoplesLiberation
Army!
@
15min.EastsideofNan-
luoguxiang,acrossfromthePlastered
T-shirtshopat61Nanluoguxiang.
2BlackSesameKitchen.Youll
havetobookahead,butthiscooking
schoolandrestaurant(ownedbythe
D
espitethebrutalexcessesoftheCulturalRevolution,
MaoretainsaheroicstatusinBeijing,asevidencedbyhis
beamingportraitsmackinthemiddleofTiananmenSquare.Hisulti-
matelegacyinmodernBeijingremainsundecided;theofficialposi-
tiontodayisthathewas70%rightand30%wrong.Thistourwilltake
youtoglossysymbolsofCommunistChina,aswellastohiddenrel-
icsthatwhilelessglamorous,areevocative,chillyremindersofChi-
nasrecentpast.START:Nanluoguxiang,northentrance.
ThedecisiontopreserveMaosbodywasmadehoursafterhis
deathin1976andwentagainsthiswishestobecremated.China
didnthavethetechnicalknow-how,andduetofrostyrelations,
expertscouldntasktheUSSRforhelp.Sotheyturnedtoneighboring
Vietnam,wheredoctorshadalreadyembalmedHoChiMinh.How-
ever,Maowaspumpedsofullofformaldehydethathisfaceand
bodyswelledbeyondrecognition.Doctorsdrainedthecorpseand
gotitbacktoanacceptableshape,butinamomentofMadameTus-
saudinspiration(indeed,tworesearcherswereevensenttothe
famouswaxworksmuseuminLondontogatherinformation),they
createdawaxmodeloftheGreatHelmsmenjustincase.Rumorhas
itthatthebodyisdecayingrapidlyandthatthewaxmodelisusually
ondisplayduringthemausoleumsshortopenhours.
KeepingUpAppearances
06_630068-ch02.indd259/25/1012:24AM
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charactersinMaoscalligraphy,pro-
claimingtheeternalfameofthe
peoplesheroes.Thesouthside
containswordsbyZhouEnlai,a
powerfulleaderoftheChinese
CommunistParty,whoservedas
premierofthePeoplesRepublicof
Chinafrom1949to1976.
@
5min.
SouthendofTiananmenSquare.
Freeadmission.
4MonumenttothePeoples
Heroes(RenminYixiongJini-
anbe).Walktothenorthsideof
MaosMausoleumtoviewthefirst
thingtheCommunistsorderedbuilt
whentheytookcommandofBeijing
in1949.Themonumentconsistsof
eightreliefpanelsfeaturingChinas
historicalheroes.Thenorthside
(facingMaosportrait)features
TheChineselovechildrenandBeijingisgenerallyakid-friendly
place.IfyourchildrenarefallingasleepontheGreatWallanddrag-
gingtheirfeetatthetemples,headtotheseplacesforsomegood
oldfamilyfun.
BringyourkidstoplayatRitanPark(RitanBeiLu;(
y
010/
8561-6301),opendaily6amto8pm.Plentyofmini-Beijingersare
hereontheweekendtumblingaroundonthetrampolinesorinthe
inflatableplayhouse.Yourkidsmaywanttojoinagameofjianzi,
orChinesehackysack.
BeijingsanswertoDisneylandisHappyValley(HuanLeGu;
XiaoWuJiBeiLu,DongSiHuan[EastFourthRingRoad];
y
010/
6738-3333;http://bj.happyvalley.com.cn/park).Thisthemepark
featuresstomach-turningrollercoasters,Shangri-LaLand,aMayan
Aztecvillage,andaGreektown.Linesforridescanbe3hourslong,
soarriveearlyandavoidtheweekends.OpendailyNovemberto
March9:30amto6pmandApriltoNovember9:30amto10pm.
Admissionis160adults,80kids1.2to1.4m(4ft.4ft.6in.),free
forkidsunder1.2m(4ft.).
ArouseyourchildsinnertechieatSonyExploraScience,inside
ChaoyangPark(ChaoyangGongyuan;
y
010/6501-8800).This
museumhaslivescienceshows(inChinese)andplentyofinteractive
exhibits.Welovetheswipecards,whichactaskeysthatunlockthe
secretsofeachsciencestation(Englishtextprovided).OpenMonday
toFridayfrom9:30amto5:30pmandSaturdaytoSundayuntil
6:30pm.Admissionis30adults,20students,andfreeforkids
under1.2m(4ft.).Buyyourticketsattheparkssouthoreastgates
andyouwonthavetobuyparkentrytickets.
IfyourebravingBeijingswinterseason,headtoHouhaiLake
forsomeoutdoorskating.Admissionisfreetoskateoncertain
partsofthelake,suchasnearYindingQiao(SilverIngotBridge).The
walled-offareanearLotusLanemaintainstheicesurface(witha
shovel,notaZamboni),playsmusic,andcharges20.Skaterentals
varyaccordingtovendors.UsuallyopenNovembertoFebruary.
Family-FriendlyBeijing
06_630068-ch02.indd269/25/1012:24AM
27
R
e
d
B
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i
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whichinstructcitizensonwhatto
dointheeventofabiologicalor
nuclearattack.(Ifyouseethefire-
ballfromanatombombexplosion,
quicklyproceedtoastreetcorner
andliefacedownontheground.)
Thereisagoodsilkmarketatthe
endofthefirstpartofthetour
makesuretheguidecontinues
behindthemarket,whichheorshe
maynotimmediatelydobecause
thetunnelsarewetandnotwell
ventilated.
@
30min.62XiDamo-
changJie,ChongwenQu(frommetro
stop,walkwest;takethe1stleft
ontoQinianDaJie,thentakethe2nd
right.Theentranceisonthesouth
side,approx.800m[2,625ft.]in).
y
010/6702-2657.Admission20.
Daily8:30am5:30pm.Metro:Chon-
gwenMen,exitD.
5
GreatHallofthePeople.
Walktothenorthwestcornerof
TiananmenSquaretoseethisquint-
essentialCommunist-stylebuilding
upclose.Ifyourvisitdoesntcoin-
cidewithpressingpoliticalmatters
oranationalholiday,thetourwill
takeyouthroughavastinterior,
markedbytypicalCommunist-style
largesse.
@
25min.Northwestcor-
nerofTiananmenSquare,ticket
boothatsouthendofthebuilding.
Opendaily8:15am3pm,butsubject
tochangesforspecialevents,socall
ahead.Bagsandcamerasarenot
allowedinthehall.
y
010/8308-
4776.Admission30adults;15
students.
6UndergroundCity(Dixia
Cheng).A5-minutetrainridewill
takeyoutomyfavoritestoponthis
tour.Thisundergroundlabyrinth
lackstheimpressive,affectedgran-
deurofTiananmenSquare,buthas
itsown,authenticCommunistfeel
toit:damp,indisrepair,anddeco-
ratedwithswathsofmaterialpat-
ternedinarmy-fatiguegreen.The
wallsareadornedwithoriginalCul-
turalRevolutionposters,severalof
DecorattheRedCapitalClub.
7
RedCapitalClub.Takea
5-minutetaxiridenorthtoexperi-
enceonemansefforttocashinon
Communistsentiment:American
ownerLaurenceBrahmhasdedi-
catedhisbar/restauranttoChinas
redcapitalists.(Redcapitalistsare
entrepreneurswhoamassedfor-
tunesbydoingbusinessinthegray
zonebetweenCommunismand
capitalismduringChinasperiodof
openingandreforminthelate70s
and80s.)TheRedCapitalClubis
deckedoutinauthenticantiquefur-
nitureanddecorations,includinga
vintageRedFlaglimoonceusedby
ChinastopCommunistleaders.The
clubattractsamixoftouristsand
well-to-doexpatsandChinese
patrons.OrderyourselfaMao-tai
andasktotakeapeekattheirwine
cellar,aconvertedbombshelter
thatwasoriginallypartofthe
UndergroundCity.66DongsiJiutiao.
y
010/8401-6152.$$.
06_630068-ch02.indd279/25/1012:24AM
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BeijingbyBicycle
TIANANMEN
SQUARE
FORBIDDEN
CITY
JingshanPark
Zhongshan
Park
Qianhai
Beihai
BeihaiPark
Houhai
Xihai
National
Museum
National
Grand
Theatre
GreatHall
ofthe
People
Working
Peoples
Cultural
Palace
NationalArt
Museumof
China
Drum
Tower
DONGCHENG
Tiananmen
Dong
TiananmenXi
Qianmen
Guloudajie
Jishuitan
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DianmenDongDajie
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DeshengmenDongDajieAndingmenXidajie
NationalCentreforthe
PerformingArts
QianMen
FormerLegationQuarter
MoatoftheForbiddenCity
Nanluoguxiang
PassByBar
FishNation
ShajingHutong
QianhaiLake
JiuMenXiaoChi
(NineGateSnacks)
10
1
3
2
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9
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1
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10
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1/2mi 0
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06_630068-ch02.indd289/25/1012:24AM
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T
houghcarsarequicklyclogginguptheroads,Beijingersstill
cycletowork,toshoppingmalls,andeventobarsforanightout
onthetown.BicyclesinChinacarrythesameloadsastrucksweve
seencyclistspullingwagonscarryingeverythingfromrefrigerators
andcomputerstoadozenrustybicycles!Butforyourowncycling
tourofBeijing,youwontneedtohaulanythingexceptthisguidebook
andabottleofwater.Theentiretourshouldtakeapproximately3
hoursataleisurelypace.START:EastgateofJingshanPark.
BikesouthfromJingshanDong
Lu,turnrightattheT-intersection
ontoJingshanQianJie,andfollow
theroadasitcurvessouth(left)
aroundtheForbiddenCity.You
arenowonBeichangJie.Go
straightuntilyoucometothe
westerncornerofTiananmen
Gate.CrossDongChanganJie.
1NationalCentreforthe
PerformingArts.Dreamedupby
FrencharchitectPaulAndreu,this
spaceagelookingbuildingwas
completedin2008.Thegiant,
dome-shapedstructurehasbeen
nicknamedJidanker(TheEgg
Shell)byBeijingers.Theprojecthas
haditsshareofcontroversy;many
thinkitsabigwasteofmoneyand
thatthefuturisticdesignclashes
withthesurroundingbuildings.Final
planscallfortheentirestructureto
floatlikeanislandinthemiddleofa
lake.Atnight,thetheaterssemi-
transparentfacadewillallowpass-
ersbytopeekinatperformancesin
oneofthethreeauditoriums,afea-
turemeanttohighlightthebuild-
ingspublicnature.Westofthe
GreatHallofthePeople,Tiananmen
Square.
y
010/6655-0871.
ContinuesouthalongTiananmen
W.Road,pasttheGreatHallofthe
PeopleandMaosMausoleum.
BikingTips
GrababicyclefromCycleChina,12
JingshanDongLu(
y
010/6402-
5653;www.cyclechina.com).They
rentGiantcityandmountainbikes
inexcellentcondition,andthey
carryframesfortallerpeople.Make
suretopassontheleftandgive
waytocyclersinfrontofyou.
ThefuturisticNationalGrandTheater.
06_630068-ch02.indd299/25/1012:24AM
30
T
h
e
B
e
s
t
S
p
e
c
i
a
l
-
I
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t
e
r
e
s
t
T
o
u
r
s
safe,preferablyaplacethathasan
attendant(theKFConthesouthwest
cornerisagoodspot).Southsideof
TiananmenSquare.
y
010/6522-
9382.Admission20summer;10
winter.
TurnleftontoTiananmenSquare
E.Road,bikingbackalongthe
easternsideofthesquare.Turn
rightontoXinDaLi(atthepedes-
trianwalkwayjustnorthofMaos
Mausoleum),andheadupthe
smallhill.TurnrightattheT-inter-
sectionandbikeuntilyoucome
toasecondT-intersectionat
DongxiaoMinxiang.
2
QianMen.QianMenisactually
twoseparatetowers.Theyonce
formedthemainentrancetoBeijing,
whichwaswalledoffbeforeMaos
reign.Theonenorthofthemain
street(QianMenDongDajie)isJian
Lou,orArrowTower.Tothesouthis
ZhengyangMen,atoweringremnant
ofthecitywallthroughwhichemper-
orspassedontheirannualproces-
sionfromtheForbiddenCitytothe
TempleofHeaven.Atthetopof
ZhengyangMen,anenjoyablephoto
exhibitiondepictsBeijings1949mar-
kets,temples,andhutongs.Make
suretoparkyourbikesomewhere
TheForbiddenCitysmoat.
06_630068-ch02.indd309/25/1012:24AM
31
B
e
i
j
i
n
g
b
y
B
i
c
y
c
l
e
Dajie(eastsideoftheForbidden
City,markedbyabigred
entranceway).Headnorthuntil
yougettotheDongHuaMen
Fromthechurch,headnorthon
TaijichangDajieuntilyouhit
DongchanganJie.Turnleftand
rideuntilyougettoNanChizi
TIANANMEN
SQUARE
SupremeCourt
National
Museum
ChairmanMao
MemorialHall
ArrowTower
Zhengyangmen
BeijingBureauof
PublicSafety
Ministryof
PublicSecurity
ORIENTAL
PLAZA
Tiananmen
Dong
Qianmen
Wangfujing
DongJiaominXiang
DongChanganJie
Z
h
e
n
g
y
i
L
u
T
a
i
j
i
c
h
a
n
g
D
a
j
i
e
QianmenDongDajie
Q
i
a
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m
e
n
D
a
j
i
e
Q
i
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a
n
D
a
j
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ChongwenmenXiheyan
S
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e
n
g
o
u
H
.
X
iD
amochangJie
C
h
a
n
g
x
i
a
n
g
XiXinglongJie
3A
3B
3C
3D
3E
3FormerLegationQuarter
(ShiguanJie).Thisiswherethe
embassiesofthemajorpowersof
theday,internationalbanks,apost
office,andotheroutpostsofWest-
erncivilizationwerelocated
between1861and1959.When
alliedforcesoccupiedBeijing,they
setuptheirheadquartershere,and
itwasoff-limitstotheChinese.At
thetime,animperialtemplewas
withinthecordoned-offarea,which
meantthattheemperorhadtogo
throughformaldiplomaticentry-exit
proceduresinordertoworshipthe
ancestorsahugehumiliationfor
theChinese.Infrontofyouat44
DongjiaoMinxiangisthebuilding
thatoncehousedstheformer
AmericanEmbassy.Keepriding
east(left)onDongjiaoMinxiang.On
yourleftyoullseenumber27,where
thetRussianEmbassyonce
stooditisnowthebackentrance
toChinasSupremeCourt.Thered
brickbuildingacrosstheroadisu
theformerHongKongShanghai
BankofChina(HSBC).Fartherupis
15DongjiaoMinxiang,currently
hometoChinasStateCouncil.Note
theslateblueandflowerywhitedec-
orationsabovethedoor,anodto
thebuildingspastoccupant,vthe
oldFrenchEmbassy.Keepbiking
east,acrossZhengyiLu.Onthe
northeastcorner,afteryoucrossTai-
jichangDajie,isthewDongjiao
MinxiangCatholicChurch,the
onlybuildingfromlegationtimesthat
isstillinservice.
06_630068-ch02.indd319/25/1012:24AM
32
Thereareplentyofbars,cafes,
andrestaurantsonNanluoguxiang.
6
PassByBar(108Nanluogux-
iang;
y
010/8403-8004;$)wasthe
onethatstarteditall,andthetaste-
fullyredonecourtyardcomplexhere
hasagreat,relaxingambience.But
ifyouwantdrinkablecoffee,head
tothecozyrooftopof
7
Fish
Nation(31Nanluoguxiang;
y
010/
6401-3249;$),whereweoftengo
forourcaffeineorfrenchfryfix.
T
h
e
B
e
s
t
S
p
e
c
i
a
l
-
I
n
t
e
r
e
s
t
T
o
u
r
s
neighborlyatmosphereandfeel
luckytobeexperiencingawayof
lifethatisquicklydyingout.
intersection.Turnleft,pastthe
parkedcars,andturnleftagain
toridealong:
4
TheMoatoftheForbidden
City.Themoatthatsurroundsthe
ForbiddenCityis3.7km(2
1
3miles)
longthelengthof35football
fields!Soilthatwasdugouttomake
themoatwasusedtobuildthecen-
tralhillinJingshanPark.Asyoufol-
lowtheroad(DongHuaMenDajie),
youllcutstraightthroughthe
entrancetotheForbiddenCity,zip-
pingpastTaiheMen(theGateof
GreatHarmony),andcomeouton
theotherside.Followtheroadasit
curvesaroundthemoat.
Youshouldbeattheintersection
ofXiHuaMenandNanchangJie.
Headinanortheastdirection
untilyougettoBeiHeYanDajie,
thenridestraightnorth.Takea
leftatDianMenDongDajieand
thenyourfirstright(atthepedes-
trianwalkway).
5Nanluoguxiang.In2006,this
crookedroadwassmoothedout
withbricks,andthesmallershops
andrestaurantswereorderedto
cleanuptheirentrancesandhang
upbilingualsigns.Nanluoguxiangis
hometoamixoflocalswhohave
livedintheareaforgenerationsand
foreignersincludinguswho
wanttofeelasthoughtheyreliving
inOldBeijing.Welovethe
SignmarkingNanluoguxiangRoad.
IfyoureatPassByBarheadnorth,
southifyoureatFishNation.Turn
westontoShajingHutong.
8ShajingHutong.Thisalley
hastwocourtyardhouseswithexte-
riorsinperfectcondition.Number8
isusedbythearmedforcesand
boastsathree-cargarage.
Turnleftattheendoftheroad
andfollowtheroadasitcurves
around.TurnleftontoFangzhuan-
changhutong(theresagrocery
onthecorner).Followthealleyto
themainroad,Dianmenwai
Dajie,whereyoullturnleft,then
takeyourfirstrightatthebank
(ICBC).Yourenowatthenorth-
erncornerofQianhai.
06_630068-ch02.indd329/25/1012:24AM
33
B
e
i
j
i
n
g
b
y
B
i
c
y
c
l
e
HeadbacktoHouhaiBeiyan,fol-
lowtheroadaroundthelake,and
crossYindingQiao(SilverIngot
Bridge).Continuesoutharound
thelake,alongQianhaiNanyan,
untilyoucanexitontothemain
street(DianmenXidajie).From
here,followthemainroadsback
toCycleChinatoreturnthebikes.
9QianhaiLake.Bikenorthand,
onceyoupassthecongestionaround
thebridge,thisturnsintoafabulous
bikeridealongthelakes.Stopinat
anyofthesites,asyouwish(see
BackLakeRamble,p38);other-wise
pedalalongataleisurelypace.
Stayontheeasternsideofthe
lake(QianhaiBeiyan/HouhaiBei-
yan).Bikepasttheformerresi-
denceofSongQingling,andin
about300m(984ft.),youllseea
decorativewoodengatelakeside,
andacorrespondingsmallersign
withphotosofvariousdisheson
theright.Theypointto:
ThecourtyardatPassbyBar.
ThefoodstallsknownasNineGates.
0
JiuMenXiaoChi(Nine
GateSnacks).Thesestallsmoved
herefromthecityshistoricalQian-
menareainearly2006.Whenyou
enter,headlefttobuyafoodcard
(anymoneyyoudontusewillbe
refundedwhenyoureturnthe
card).ThemainaisleisfullofMus-
limstalls,whiletheonesinthe
doorwayservepork.Youcannot
takenon-Muslimfoodintothemain
aisle,soifyouwanttopickupa
plateofdeep-friedporkandonion
rollsatoneoftheentrancestalls,
doitafteryouordersometasty,
halal-friendlydishes.Tablesaredot-
tedthroughouttherestaurant,and
insideisastagewithtraditional
Chinesemusicperformances.
1XiaoyouHutong.$.
06_630068-ch02.indd339/25/1012:24AM
34
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T
o
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s
Beijing:Past,Present&Future
T
I
A
N
A
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M
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F
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ChaoyangmenNanDajie
WangfujingDajie
DongsiNanDajie
D o n g S a n h u a n B e i L u
QianmenDajie
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D o n g S a n h u a n Z h o n g L u
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FuxingmenBeiDajie
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06_630068-ch02.indd349/25/1012:24AM
35
B
e
i
j
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n
g
:
P
a
s
t
,
P
r
e
s
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n
t
&
F
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I
nseveralshortdecades,Maosuitshavegivenwaytoblue
jeans,traditionalbrickcourtyardshavemorphedintoskyscrapers,
andmillionsofbicycleownershaveupgradedtocars.Thistouris
meanttogiveyouaglimpseofBeijingspast,present,andfuture
allofwhichexistsidebysideinthisrapidlytransitioningcapital.
START:PanjiayuanLu.
1
Panjiayuan.Maomem-
orabilia,black-and-whitephoto-
graphsofBeijingsdustystreets,
andtraditionalminoritycostumes
canbefoundinthebustlingstallsof
Beijingsbestantiquesandcurio
market.Weprefercomingonweek-
endsforthewonderfulbuzz.Ven-
dorsfromalloverChinaconvene
here:Folkartists,Tibetansindark
canvasrobes,andhilltribespeople
fromruralpartsofChinawearing
brightlyembroidereddressesbegin
pullingcartloadsoftraditionalwares
tothemarketstartingjustaftersun-
rise,thoughthemarketsgates
dontopenuntil8am.Theweekdays
arelessbusy,butsometimesbetter
forbargainingsincetherearefewer
tourists.Noonecanvouchforthe
authenticityofthesupposed
antiquesthatareofferedhere,so
bargainhard.SeeBare-BonesBar-
gaining,p64.
@
2hr.;goearlyand
ontheweekend,ifpossible.Panjia-
yuanLu.Nophone.Freeadmission.
Daily8am4pm.
2=BeijingMunicipal
PlanningExhibitionHall.The
20-minutetaxiridefromPanjiayuan
(ifthetrafficisdecent)willfeellikea
hugeleapforwardintimeonce
youreimmersedinthishigh-tech
museum,whichgivesyouofa
glimpseoftomorrowsBeijing.Sev-
eraloftheexhibitionsareinteractive,
includingthescalemodelofBeijing
thatyoucanactuallywalkon.We
highlyrecommendtheshortmovies,
offeredathalf-hourintervalsandin
Englishonrequest.The3-Dmovie,
GoodsforsaleatPanjiayuan.
06_630068-ch02.indd359/25/1012:24AM
36
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T
o
u
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s
3
LaoSheTeahouse.A15-
minutewalkfromtheExhibitionHall,
thisoldteahouserecentlyunder-
wentaslickmakeover,butstilloffers
thesametraditionalteaandafter-
noonmusicalperformanceswithChi-
neseinstrumentslikethezitherand
theerhu,aChineseviolin.Bldg.3,
ZhengyangshichangQianmenXi
Dajie.
y
010/6303-6830.$.
4
CapitalMuseum.A
30-minutesubwayride(takeataxi,
ifyourefeelinglazy)willtakeyouto
oneofChinasbest-curatedand
-designedmuseums.TheCapital
MuseumdisplaysartifactsfromBei-
jingspastandpresent,including
bronzes,photographs,andmodels
oftraditionalcourtyardgates.The
fifthfloorhasinterestingexhibitions
onBeijingfolkcustomsandthe
PekingOpera,withliveperfor-
mancesonSaturdayfrom10amto
noon.Itsagoodwaytosample
PekingOperamusic(whichisntto
everyonesliking)sinceyoucan
alwaysmoveontothenextexhibi-
tionwithouttheembarrassmentof
sneakingoutofatheater.Thebase-
mentcafeoffersanimpressive
rangeofinternationalfoods.
@
90
min.16FuxingmenwaiDajie.
y
010/
6337-0491.www.capitalmuseum.
org.cn.Freeadmissionwithpass-
port.TuesSun9am5pm(4pmlast
entry).Subway:Muxidi.
completewiththefunnyglasses,
tellsthehistoryofBeijingsdevelop-
ment.The4-Dmoviemorelikea
rideatanamusementparktakes
youonatourofBeijingsfuturesub-
waylines,whichwillsupposedlycon-
nectanytwopointsinBeijinginless
thananhour.Evenifitispropa-
ganda,itsstillgoodfun.
@
90min.
20QianmenDongLu.
y
010/6702-
4559.www.bjghzl.com.cn.Admis-
sion30;10additionalforeach
movie.TuesSun9am5pm(4pm
lastentry).Subway:Qianmen.
CheckingoutthescalemodelofBeijing.
06_630068-ch02.indd369/25/1012:24AM
3
TheBest
NeighborhoodWalks
07_630068-ch03.indd379/25/1012:24AM
38
T
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b
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s
BackLakeRamble
Previouspage:AshopsellingmusicalinstrumentsinLiulichang.
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3PrinceGongsMansion.
Thisisthemostlavishcourtyard
residenceintheBackLakes.The
1777mansionwasoccupiedbyHes-
hen,acorruptofficialwhowas
rumoredtobetheemperorQian-
longslover.Later,itbecamethe
homeofPrinceGong,whonegoti-
atedonbehalfofChinaattheendof
theSecondOpiumWar.
@
30min.
1
MeiLanfangGuju.Lookfor
theredlanternsoutsidethissuperbly
preservedcourtyardresidence.This
homeoncebelongedtoPeking
OperastarMeiLanfang,whoroseto
theheightofhisfamein1935.The
picturesofthesingerdisplayed
withindemonstratethewiderange
ofexpressionsusedinthisartform.
@
15min.9HuguosiDajie.
y
010/
6618-3598.Admission10.9am
4pm(TuesSun).
2FormerCampusofFuren
University.Theoriginalcampusof
FurenUniversity,aCatholicinstitu-
tionsetupbyChinesepriests,was
builtin1925.Shutteredafterthe
Communistscametopower,the
institutionmovedtoTaiwan.Note
theornatefacadefeaturingan
archeddoorwayandthetraditional
slopingChineseroof.1DingfuJie.
T
hecircuitaroundandnearHouhai(MandarinforBackLake)
isfarandawaythebestwalkinBeijing.Historicimperialresi-
dencesrubshoulderswithnewyuppiecafes,whilecrumblingresi-
dencesabutrenovatedmultimilliondollarlake-viewresidences.This
walkcanbedoneatanytimeoftheday,thoughifyoustartinthe
midafternoon,youllberewardedbyromanticsunsetviewsatyour
walksend.START:MeiLanfangGuju.CornerofDeshengmenNeiDajie
andDingfuJie.
FurenUniversity.
PrinceGongsMansionhasmanyrockeriesandpavilionstoexplore.
07_630068-ch03.indd399/25/1012:24AM
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4
FamilyFusTeahouse.Atthis
lakesideteahouseyoucanrelaxon
Mingdynastyfurniturewhilesipping
longjing,agreenteafromHang-
zhou,oneofChinasfamedtea-pro-
ducingareas.TheEnglish-speaking
ownerisparticularlyfriendly.Hou-
haiPark.
y
010/6616-0725.$$.
fortheareasducks.Marchismat-
ingseasonontheislandandapar-
ticularlybusytime.HouhaiLake.
6SongQinglingsFormer
Residence.Thisformerimperial
palaceoncefamouslyhousedthe
wifeofSunYat-sen,modernChinas
founder.Thisfeministherolater
becameafriendofMaosanda
Communistsympathizer.
@
30min.
46HouhaiBeiYan.
y
010/6404-
4205.Admission20.9am5pm(to
4:30pminwinter).
7DazhangLonghuaSi.Asyou
continuealongthelakeyoullpass
theoutdoorexerciseequipment
(whichseniorcitizenswillprobably
beusing).Keepaneyeoutforthe
gateofthis1719temple.Though
itsnowthegroundsofakindergar-
ten,thefacade,withintricateanimal
shapedstonegargoyles,hasbeen
nicelypreserved.
@
5min.23Hou-
haiBeiYan.
8GuanghuaSi.ABuddhist
templedatingfromtheYun
dynasty(12791368),thiscomplex
originallycomprisedmorethan20
buildings;onlyafewofthebuildings
remain.Inresidenceareatleast20
monks,manyfromsouthernChina.
Admissionisallowedonthe1stand
15thdaysofthelunarmonth,when
thetempleisfilledwithlocalspray-
ingforthesuccessoftheirlatest
14ALiuyinJie.
y
010/6616-8149.
Admission20;60foraguided
tourwithanoperaperformance.
8:30am4:30pm.
RelaxwithacupofteaatFamilyFusTeahouse.
WorshippingatGuanghuaSi.
5WildDuckIsland.Beijingis
fullofloopyattractions,including
thisman-madeislandbuiltofsteel
07_630068-ch03.indd409/25/1012:24AM
41
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@
ExcuseCaf.Justeastofthe
backentranceoftheDrumToweris
thiscozycafeservingexcellent
espressos.68ZhonglouWan
Hutong.
y
010/6401-9867.$.
!DrumTower.Wehighlyrec-
ommendthedrummingperfor-
manceshelddailyfrom9to11:30am
and1:30to5pmunderneaththe
brightyellowtileroofofthelooming
DrumTower.Seep12,bullet
4
.
businessventures.Thoughitsnot
officiallyopentothepublicatother
times,monkshavesnuckusinmore
thanonce.Chinaslastknown
eunuch,SunYaotinga,wasthecare-
takerfor2decades,beforedying
herein1996.
@
10min.31Yaer
Hutong,GulouXiDajie.Nophone.
9
YindingQiao(SilverIngot
Bridge).Thisbridgeseparates
HouhaifromQianhai(FrontLake).
Itsusuallyamessoftourists,
aggressiverickshaws,andcars.
@
5min.
0YandaiXieJie.Walkaway
fromthebridgeandturnrightatthe
signthatreadsMASTEROFFOLKARTSAND
CRAFTSFINEWORKSALE.Thistouristy
pedestrianstreethousesafew
gems.Number63ontheleft,afolk-
artstore,featuresstylishChinese
pillowcovers,framedpapercuts,
andclothcoasters.Number20on
therightsellscutetotesandlipstick
caseswithChinesepatterns.Num-
ber12istheTibetanJewelry&
TeaBar,whereyoucanstopfora
drinkintheairybackroomand
browsetheircollectionofTibetan
bracelets,rings,andclothing.
@
20min.
Eventhewaterwayssometimesget
crowdedatYindingQiao.
AperformanceattheDrumTower.
07_630068-ch03.indd419/25/1012:24AM
42
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Wangfujing
ORIENTALPLAZA
H
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c
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R
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P
a
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NationalArt
Museumof
China
Wangfujing
Dengshikou
Dongsi
DONGCHENG
DongsiXiDajie
WusiDajie
B
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y
a
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D
o
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H
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LongfuSiJie
D
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H
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a
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DongchangHutong
BaofangHutong
D
o
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s
i
N
a
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a
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B
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F
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DengshikouXijie
DengshikouDajie
W
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f
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D
a
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e
BaishuHutong
GanyuHutong
XiTangziHutong
JinyuHutong
MeizhaHutong
ShuaifuyuanH.
X
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a
o
w
e
i
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Dongdan3Tiao
DongChanganJie
T
a
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1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
5
7
WangfujingPaleolithic
Museum
OrientalPlaza
GongmeiDasha
Shengxifu
WuyutaiTeaShop
WangfujingXiaochiJie
(SmallEatsStreet)
ForeignLanguageBookstore
DongTang(EastChurch)
LaoSheJinianguan
FuqiangHutong
ZhongguoMeishuguan
(NationalArtMuseumofChina)
LongfuSiJie
DongSiQingzhenSi
(DongSiMosque)
1
3
8
9
10
11
2
6
4
12
13
1/4mi 0
01/4km
07_630068-ch03.indd429/25/1012:24AM
43
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W
angfujinghasservedasBeijingstraditionalcommercial
heartsincetheendoftheQingdynasty,whentheroyalfamily
fellonhardtimesandsolditssilvertotheneighborhoodpawn-
shops.Hippercommercialareashavesprunguparoundtown,but
Wangfujingcontainsthebestpedestrian-friendlymixofhistoric
sites,museums,kitschyChineseshops,andoutpostsofWestern
consumerismeverythingfromNiketoTiffany&Co.START:Subway
toWangfujing,exitA.
1
WangfujingPalaeolithic
Museum.Constructionworkers
struckanimalskeletonsandtools
datingback24,000yearswhenthey
werebuildingtheOrientalPlaza
shoppingmall.Thegovernment
decidedtocommemoratethefind-
ingwiththissmall,simplemuseum
inthebasementofanultramodern
shoppingcomplex.Thecoolest
thingistheexposeddirtfloor,
whichshowspiecesofembedded
stones,bonetools,andanimalfos-
sils.
@
15min.1DongChanganJie.
y
010/8518-6306.Admission10.
Daily10am4pm.Subway:Wangfu-
jing,exitA.
JadeatGongmeiDasha.
AdisplayattheWangfujingPalaeolithicMuseum.
07_630068-ch03.indd439/25/1012:24AM
44
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WangfujingDajie.
y
010/6528-
8866.Daily9:30am9:30pm.
4Shengxifu.Establishedin
1912,thisfamedhatshopisthe
placetogetyourproletarianMao
caporafurryhatwithearflaps
3GongmeiDasha.Atthislarge
jadestore,youreguaranteedtoget
therealthing,ratherthanthecol-
oredglassyoumightfindelse-
where.Bargaindowntoathirdof
themarkedprice.
@
15min.200
ORIENTALPLAZA
OrientalPlaza
2C 2B
2A
2D
MapArea
Emperor
Shanghaixu
Herborist
(onefloorbelow)
ArtofShirts ArtofShirts
Emperor
Shanghaixu
Herborist
(onefloorbelow)
2OrientalPlaza.Fromthe
WangfujingPaleolithicMuseum,an
escalatorleadstothebasementof
oneofBeijingsbusiestmalls.Critics
wronglypredictedthatthishigh-end
mallwouldfailwhenitopened.
Althoughthecriticswererightthat
formerresidentsevictedsothat
developerscouldbuildOriental
Plazacantaffordtoshophere,
plentyofnouveauricheChinesecan.
WetendtoskipthefamiliarAmeri-
canandEuropeanbrand-name
stores,andhitthemoreunusualChi-
neseshops.Themallalsoboastsa
goodbasement-levelcinemaand
foodcourt.jShanghaixu,at
AA10,hasalargeselectionof
qipaos,traditionaltight-fitting,high-
collaredChinesedresses.Ifthey
donthaveanythingyoulike,youcan
getonemadetoorder.Nextdoor,
kEmperorhasaniceassortment
ofembroiderednapkinsandhouse-
wares.AfewshopsdownatAA20,
lArtofShirtsboastsanicecol-
lectionofbuttondownandcasual
shirtsformenandwomen.mThe
Herborist,atEE05,carriesalineof
traditionalChinesemedicinetoilet-
ries.Weswearbytheirantidandruff
shampoo.
@
30min.1Dong
ChanganJie.
y
010/8518-6573.
Daily9am9:30pm.
07_630068-ch03.indd449/25/1012:24AM
45
6
WangfujingXiaochiJie
(SmallEatsStreet).Theseareour
favoritestallsintownforstreet
food.Dontbeafraidtotrythelamb
skewersorthesquidonthestick
thoughtheymaylooksuspect,they
arescrumptious!Nophone.$.
W
a
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g
churchattractspunkteenagerswho
skateboardintheoutdoorsquare.If
yourefeelingalittletired,youre
veryclosetotheDonghuaJiankang
HuisuoMassageCenter(seePam-
perYourself,p46).
@
10min.74
WangfujingDajie.
y
010/6524-0634.
Sunservicesat6:30,7,8am;MonSat
servicesat6:30&7am.
decoratedwithCommunistred
stars.
@
10min.196Wangfujing
Dajie.
y
010/6525-4752.Daily
8:30am9pm.
5
WuyutaiTeaShop.Thesec-
ondfloorofthisqualityteashophas
aninterestingexhibitionofteacul-
ture,includingacollectionoftea-
pots,andalivelyteahouse.
@
15
min.186WangfujingDajie.
y
010/
6525-4961.Daily8:30am9pm.
SkewersforsaleonSmallEatsStreet.
Skateboarding
infrontof
DongTang.
7ForeignLanguageBook-
store.Thisaptlynamedstoreis
oneofBeijingsbestforeign-lan-
guagebookstores.Ontheground
level,youllfindadecentcollection
offictionandnonfiction,Chinese
cookbooks,maps,andtravel
guides.
@
15min.235Wangfujing
Dajie.
y
010/6512-6903.Daily
9:30am9:30pm.
8DongTang(EastChurch).
AlsoknownasSt.JosephsCathe-
dral,thisgrayGothicstructurewas
builtin1655,toppledbyan
earthquakein1720,guttedby
afirein1807,andrazed
duringtheBoxerRebel-
lionof1900.Rebuilt
in1904,itwent
throughmajorreno-
vationsin2000.
Asidefromdevout
Catholics,the
07_630068-ch03.indd459/25/1012:24AM
46
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returnedtoanewlyCommunist
Chinain1950,then-premierZhou
EnlaigaveLaoShethiscourtyard
residenceinthehopethathewould
writepropagandanovelsforthe
newgovernment.Buthenever
turnedoutanotherfamousnovel,
andhedrownedhimselfduringthe
CulturalRevolution.
@
15min.19
FengfuHutong.
y
010/6514-2612.
Freeadmission.Daily9am4pm.
0
FuqiangHutong.Retracing
yourstepsbacktothestreet,take
therightalley,immodestlynamed
RichandPowerfulAlley.Notethe
finelycarvedrooflintelswithBud-
dhistswastikas(anancientsymbol
9
LaoSheJinianguan.Across
thestreetfromtheDonghuaJiank-
angHuisuoMassageCenter(see
PamperYourself,below)aretwo
narrowlanes.Takethelaneonthe
lefttoreachthismemorialhallto
LaoShe,oneofChinasmost
famouswriters.WhenLaoShe
LaoSheJinianguan.
OneofthethingsweloveaboutlivinginBeijingisbeingable
toindulgeininexpensivespatreatmentsthatcostafortuneinthe
West.Ifyouvedoneawalkingtourortwo,youmorethandeserve
avisittooneofBeijingsmasseuses.
TheDonghuaJiankangHuisuoMassageCenteroffers
1-hourfull-bodyandfootmassagesfor88each.Youcanalsotry
cupping,inwhichhotglassjarsareusedtosuckoutbadenergy
fromyourback,leavingfunny-lookingredwelts.Themassagecen-
terisonthesecondflooroftheDonghuaHotel(32DengshikouXi
Jie;
y
010/6525-7531,ext.3201).
Bodhi(17GongtiBeiLu;
y
010/6417-9595)isourfavoritemas-
sageretreat.Thehallways,decoratedwithSoutheastAsiantouches,
leadtoprivaterooms,wheretop-notchmasseusesrubawayknotsin
ourbacks.ThespaofferstraditionalChinesefootmassages,body
massages,Thaimassages,andnailtreatments.Complimentary
drinksandsnacksareservedduringandafteryourtreatment.
WithaconvenientlocationneartheForbiddenCity,Dragonfly
(SanlitunNanLuGroundflooroftheEasternInn,northgateofChao-
yangHospital;
y
010/6593-6066),featuresadark,sereneinterior
andofferstreatmentssimilartoBodhi,butwithoutthesnacks.
HeadtotheSpaattheRitz-Carlton(1JinchengfangDongJie,
XichengDistrict;
y
010/6601-6666)ifyourelookingtosplurge.
TheRitzofferseverythingfromfacialstomassagestopedicures,
andyoullhaveaccesstotheirluxurioussaunaandsteamroom
beforeandafteryourtreatment.Theintimateroomsfortwowith
candlelightareparticularlyromantic.
PamperYourself
07_630068-ch03.indd469/25/1012:24AM
47
W
a
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f
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j
i
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g
#DongSiQingzhenSi(Dong
SiMosque).OneofBeijingsold-
estmosques,DongSiQingzhenSi
hasbeenaroundsincethe14th
century.Thesecondcourtyardis
especiallysereneaniceplaceto
unwindandrestyourfeet.
@
10
min.13DongsiNanDajie.
y
010/
6525-7824.Admission10.Daily
sunrisesunset.
ofgoodfortune)andthelotus-
emblazoneddoorpiersatnumber
18.Whiletherectangulardoorpier
indicatesthattheresidentswerent
officials(theirhousesweremarked
bycirculardoorpiers),theymust
havebeenwell-offtobeableto
affordskilledstonemasons.Party
GeneralSecretaryZhaoZiyang,who
wasoustedduringtheTiananmen
massacre,livedatnumber3under
housearrestuntilhisdeathinJanu-
ary2005.
@
15min.
!ZhongguoMeishuguan
(NationalArtMuseumof
China).Thismuseumhasagood
permanentcollectionofChineseoil
paintingsandhostsinternationalexhi-
bitionscuratedbythelikesofNew
YorksGuggenheimMuseum.
@
60
min.1WusiDajie.
y
010/8403-3500.
www.namoc.org.Admission20.
Daily9am5pm(4pmlastentry).
@LongfuSiJie.Inthissmallalley
youllfindbargainclothes,music,and
streetfoodthatmakeaninteresting
contrasttothebustleandcommercial
flairofWangfujing.
@
15min.
ShoppingforfruitinLongfuSiJie.
TakeabreakinthecourtyardatDongSiQingzhenSi.
07_630068-ch03.indd479/25/1012:24AM
48
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Liulichang
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YanshouJie
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N
amedforafactorythatoncechurnedoutglazedrooftiles,
Liulichangisacharming,chaoticmessofalleysbrimmingwith
life.WhilemuchofBeijinghasbeentorndowntomakewayfor
monolithicskyscrapersandwideavenues,thisisoneofthefew
areasoftownthathasremainedasitwasattheturnofthe20th
century.START:HepingMenMetrostation.
1
CathayBookstore.This
bookstorecontainsagreatrangeof
artmaterials,frominkstones(a
moundofinkthatcanbewettedto
useforcalligraphy)tonamechops
andpapercuts,forreasonable
prices.
@
15min.18LiulichangXi
Jie.
y
010/6301-7678.Daily
9am6:30pm.
2RongbaoZhai.Themost
renownedartshopinChinaisflanked
bytheworldslargestinkstone.The
woodblockprints,copiesoffamous
calligraphy,andhistoricpaintings
arentcheap,butyourepayingfor
thequalityandcachet.
@
15min.19
LiulichangXiJie.
y
010/6303-5279.
Daily9am5:30pm.
3ZhongguoShudian(China
Bookstore).Hereyoullfinda
widerangeofbooksonChineseart,
architecture,andliterature.
@
10
min.115LiulichangDongJie.
y
010/
6303-6694.Daily9am6pm.
4
SongyunGe.Justeastof
ZhongguoShudianisthistinyshop,
foundedin1903,withamarvelous
collectionofantiquarianbooks.104
LiulichangDongJie.
y
010/6303-
1446.Daily9am6:30pm.
5CurioShops.Continuingeast,
LiulichangDongJiepetersoutintoa
seriesoftouristyshopsthatsell
Buddhiststatues,ceramics,and
reproductionsofTangdynasty
horsesandemperors.Mostofthe
streetcontainsshopsthatsellthe
sameknickknacks,butnumber71
sellsgoodchrysanthemumand
greentea,andnumber58carries
qualityantiquesandsecondhand
goodslikegrandfatherclocksand
jewelry.Justbeforenumber65,turn
rightdownanalleymarkedwitha
gatebafflinglylabeledPRADIPRION
SCULPTUREandfollowthesignsthat
sayANTIQUECARPETSto54DongBei
YunHutong.Here,acouplesells
BrushesforsaleatthecurioshopsalongLiulichangDongJie.
07_630068-ch03.indd499/25/1012:24AM
50
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W
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s
8
GoubuliBaoziDian.Werenot
surewhythedogswonttouch
them(asthecatchymonikergou-
buliimplies),butpeoplecertainly
lovethesteamedbunssoldbythe
steamerbasketatthisbustling,
somewhatgrungyrestaurant.We
preferthe22bunsstuffedwith
wildvegetablesandpork(askfor
theyeshubao)totheoriginalpork-
flavoredbuns.29DaShilan.
y
010/
6315-2389.$.
staggering680,000.
@
15min.
2931DaShilan.
y
010/6353-3338.
Daily8am7:30pm.
0Ruifuxiang.Ontheleftisthe
steelbaroquefacadeofalong
establishedfabricstorethatonce
suppliedsilktotheQingdynasty
royalty.Thecompanybrochure
claimsthatoneofthefirstChinese
flagsraisedbyChairmanMaowas
alsomadefromRuifuxiangfabric.
@
15min.5DaShilan.
y
010/6303-
5313.Daily10am7:30pm.
!Qianmen.Walkinguptheave-
nue,pasttheFrontGate(Zhengyang
Men),taketheroadwayunderpass
toQianmen,atoweringremnantof
theoldcitywall.Emperorsonce
passedthroughQianmenontheir
annualprocessionfromtheForbid-
denCitytotheTempleofHeaven.
Thetowerboastsexcellentviewsof
TiananmenSquareandhostsapho-
tographicexhibitionofOldBeijing.
Justsouthofthetowerisabustling
newpromenadethatwasfinished
justafterthe2008OlympicGames,
boastingallkindsofinternational
brands,fromStarbuckstoH&M.
@
15min.Nophone.Admission
10.Daily8:30am4pm.
beautiful,antiqueMongolianand
Tibetancarpets(somemadeof
camelhair)outoftheirsmallcourt-
yardlivingroom.Number28Liuli-
changDongLusellselegant
gray-greenceladonteapotsand
vases.
6
DaShilan.Thisbustling,
pedestrian-onlystreetisflankedby
someofBeijingsoldestretailers;
wevedescribedourfavoritesjust
below.
7
NeiLianShengXiedian.On
therightisthisfamousshoestore
whereyoucanseecobblersdemon-
stratingtheirtrade.Thetraditional
clothanddelicatelyhand-embroi-
deredwomensshoesarewornby
eldersandhipstersalike.
@
15min.
34DaShilan.
y
010/6301-4863.
Daily9:30am8pm.
AcobblersewingshoesatNeiLian
ShengXiedian.
9TongrenTang.Beijingsmost
celebratedChinese-medicinephar-
macywasestablishedin1669.In
thewesternwing,youcanmakean
appointmenttoseeaChinese-medi-
cinedoctor,whileinthemainhall
peopleofallagesfromyouthful
20-somethingstoseniorcitizens
pushingancient-lookingwooden
cartsbrowsethemedicinecoun-
ters.Onthesecondfloor,precious
ginsengrootthatwasharvested80
yearsagoinManchuriasellsfora
07_630068-ch03.indd509/25/1012:24AM
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TheBestShopping
08_630068-ch04.indd519/25/1012:25AM
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BestPhotoGallery
ThreeShadowsPhotographyArt
Centre,155Caochangdi(p57)
BestHigh-Quality,Bargain
Pearls
HongqiaoShichang,16Hongqiao
Lu(p65)
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ZooMarket,infrontoftheBeijing
Zoo(p62)
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Maliandao,MaliandaoLu(p67)
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Guxiang(p60)
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ityCostumes,Jewelry&
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BestElectronics
ZhongguanCun,1ZhongguanCun
Dajie(p58)
BestTeapots&Teacups
Spin,6FangyuanXilu(p68)
BestChineseAntique
Furniture
Gaobeidian,GaobeidianGujiaju
Jie(p63)
BestCarpets
Torana,KempinskiHotel(p58)
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Qipao
ThirdfloorofYashow,58Gongti
BeiLu(p66)
MostEstablishedContempo-
raryArtGallery
RedGateGallery,Dongbianmen
Watchtower(p57)
ShoppingBestBets
Teapotsandcupsforsalein
Beijingrangefromthetradi-
tionaltothecontemporary.
Previouspage:Merchandise
forsaleatthePanjiayuan
market.
08_630068-ch04.indd529/25/1012:25AM
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BaiNaoHui11
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Mixmind18
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GardenBooks12
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DengshikouXiJie
DengshikouDajie
BaishuHutong
GanyuHutong
XiTangziHutong
JinyuHutong
MeizhaHutong
ShuaifuyuanH.
X
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i
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Dongdan3Tiao
DongChanganJie
T
a
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i
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a
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D
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i
e
DonganmenDajie
DonghuamenDajie
DaruanfuHutong
H
u
a
l
o
n
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i
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a
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e
y
a
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i
L
u
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
GongmeiDasha6
Herborist7
TheMallsatOrientalPlaza7
ShanghaiTang7
ShanghaiXu7
Shengxifu5
TomLee2
WangfujingForeignLanguage
Bookstore1
WuyutaiTeaShop4
XinZhongGuoKidsStuff3
1/4mi 0
01/4km
WangfujingShopping
08_630068-ch04.indd569/25/1012:25AM
57
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BeijingShoppingAtoZ
Ifyoureseriousaboutart,two
districtsshouldbeonyourcheck-
list:798,whichisfeaturedinthe
previouschapter(p21),andCao-
changdi,wherePekinFineArtsand
ThreeShadowsPhotographyArt
Centre(seebelow)arelocated.Cao-
changdihasamoreexclusivefeel,
while798attractsalotofyoung,
casualshoppersinterestedinshops
thatsellclothingandknickknacks
thatsurroundthegalleries.Another
pointtoconsideristhat798isquite
walkable,whereasthedistances
betweengalleriesatCaochangdi
arelarger,soyoumightthinkabout
rentingacaranddriverfortheday
ifyoureinterestedinCaochangdi.
RedGateGalleryCHAOYANG
ThegrandfatherofartgalleriesinBei-
jing,RedGateopened1991andcon-
tinuestobealeaderinthescene.
Locatedinawatchtowerthatusedto
bepartofthecitywall,thegalleryis
worthatripforitsstunningarchitec-
turealone.DongbianmenWatch-
tower.
y
010/6525-1005.www.
redgategallery.com.AE,MC,V.Metro:
Jianguomen.Mapp54.
ThreeShadowsPhotogra-
phyArtCentreCHAOYANG
Specializinginphotographyby
establishedandemergingChinese
artist,thisismyfavoritegalleryin
thecity.Withitslong
perimeterofwalls,a
beautifulcourtyard,
andanicecafeonthe
premises,itsaplace
youcanhangoutfor
severalhoursandsoak
upitsexhibitions.155Cao-
changdi.www.threeshad-
ows.com.
y
010/6432-2663.
AE,MC,V.
Antiques
GuangHanTangCHAOY-
ANGArun-downwarehousecon-
vertedintoanelegantcourtyard,
thisemporiumfullofTibetantrunks,
antiquecarpets,androsewoodfur-
nitureisworththelongtripifyouve
gotseriouscash.Caochangdi(call
formorespecificdirections).
y
010/
8456-7943.Nocreditcards.Map
p54.
PanjiayuanJiuhuo
ShichangCHAOYANGSeeMar-
kets&Bazaars,laterinthischapter.
Art,Contemporary
FaurschouCHAOYANGThis
high-caliberCopenhagengallery,
locatedinthe798ArtDistrict,rep-
resentstopinternationalandChi-
neseartists,andtheairy,cavernous
spaceiswell-designedtoviewits
large,priceyexhibitions.2Jiuxianq-
iaoLu.
y
010/59789316.www.
faurschou.com/beijing.AE,MC,V.
Mapp54.
PekinFineArtsCHAOY-
ANGPromotingestablishedAsian
artists,thisgallery,locatedinthe
Caochangdiartdistrict,catersto
high-endartcollectorsandmuse-
ums,butisworthatourevenifyou
areacasualbrowserofart.Pairit
withavisittoThreeShadows,
listedbelow,anddipintothe
othergalleriesin
thearea.241
Caochangdi.
y
010/5127-3220.
www.pekinfinearts.
com.AE,MC,V.
Panjiayuanhasjewelry,
ceramics,CulturalRevolu-
tionmemorabilia,andmore.
08_630068-ch04.indd579/25/1012:25AM
58
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gcut-ratepricesbetween1,000and
10,000.SanyuanNanXiaoJie(call
forexactdirections).
y
139/0100-
5150.Nocreditcards.Metro:Nong-
zhanguan.Mapp54.
ChineseMedicine&
Pharmacies
BeijingInternationalSOS
ClinicCHAOYANGWiththe
numberoffakeWesternmedicines
ontheChinesemarket,yourbest
betistogotoSOSforitsselection
ofimportedmedicine.Ste.105,
Wing1,KunshaBldg.,16Xinyuanli
Lu.
y
010/6462-9112.AE,MC,V.
Metro:Liangmahe.Mapp54.
TongrenTangDONGCHENG
BeijingsmostcelebratedChinese
medicinepharmacywasestablished
in1669.Inthewesternwing,you
canmakeanappointmenttoseea
Chinese-medicinedoctor,whilein
themainhallpeopleofallages
fromyouthful20-somethingsto
seniorcitizenspushingancient-look-
ingwoodencartsbrowsethe
medicinecounters.Onthesecond
floor,preciousginsengrootthat
washarvested80yearsagoin
Manchuriasellsforastaggering
680,000.24DaShilan.
y
010/
6303-0221.Nocreditcards.Metro:
Qianmen.Map54.
Electronics
BaiNaoHuiCHAOYANGThough
itsafour-storymessofstalls,Bai
NaoHuiiscentrallylocated,andthe
vendorstakecareofourgadget
cravings,sellingeverythingfromthe
tiniestMP3playerstothesleekest
digitalcameras.GowithaMandarin
speaker,askaboutwarranties,and
getareceiptforbig-ticketpur-
chases.ChaowaiDajie10.
y
010/
6599-5947.Metro:ChaoyangMen.
Mapp53.
ZhongguanCunHAIDIAN
Beware:Youcouldspenddays
Arts&Crafts
BeijingCentralArtGallery&
CulturalVillageSHUNYIThis
professionalgalleryhasoriginal
(bothtraditionalandcontemporary)
watercolors,oilpaintings,and
sculpturesbyChineseartists.The
staffisincrediblyfriendlyandhelp-
ful.50LiangmaqiaoLu.Kempinski
Hotel.
y
010/6465-1396.www.
bjcagallery.com.AE,MC,V.Map
p54.
PanjiayuanJiuhuo
ShichangCHAOYANGSee
Markets&Bazaars,laterinthis
chapter.
ZaoyuangArtifactShop
XICHENGForanintimateshopping
experience,headtothiscozycourt-
yardshop.Theysellhigh-quality
ceramicreproductionsendorsedby
researchfellowsfromtheForbidden
Citymuseum.Theyalsohavecallig-
raphypaintingsbywell-knownBei-
jingcalligraphers.2Zhuzhong
Hutong,JiugulouDajie.
y
010/8401-
8867.Nocreditcards.Metro:Gulou.
Mapp54.
Carpets
ToranaSHUNYIItsatrekto
getouthereandthepricesarehigh,
butifyourelookingforapremium
carpet-shoppingexperience,thisis
theplacetogo.Toranasextensive
selectionofcarpetsprominently
featuresworksfromTibet,andthe
storeisalsoagreatresourceif
yourelookingforinformationon
howtoselectandcleancarpets.
EuroplazaMall(OuluGuangchang),
99FuxiangLu,L110.
y
010/8459-
0785.AE,MC,V.Mapp54.
Mr.ZhangsCarpetsCHAOY-
ANGThisfriendlycarpetdealeris
afavoriteamongexpatsinBeijing.
Twolargedustyshedsarefilledwith
beautifulwovenworksfromwest-
ernChinaandCentralAsia.Besure
tobringcashandbargaintoget
08_630068-ch04.indd589/25/1012:25AM
59
TheBookworm.
B
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t
o
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MC,DISC,V.Metro:Guanghualu.
Mapp53.
GardenBooksCHAOYANG
Withacafedownstairs,thisquaint
bookstorefeaturesagoodcollec-
tionofchildrensliterature,cook-
books,andrecentnonfictionand
fiction.44GuanghuaLu
y
010/6585-
1435.www.gardenbooks.cn.AE,MC,
V.Metro:Jianguomen.Mapp53.
WangfujingForeignLan-
guagesBookstoreDONGCHENG
Afewyearsago,Chinasstrictcen-
sorshiplawsrestrictedthestockin
thisbookstoretoWesternclassics.
Nowadays,werehappytofindthe
latestbestsellers,novelsbyHaruki
Murakami,andgoodbiographies
alongsideclassicsbythelikesof
JaneAusten.235WangfujingDajie,
DongchengQu.
y
010/6512-6903.
AE,MC,V.Metro:Wangfujing.
Mapp56.
Fashion
DealDONGCHENGWelove
thishipshoestorestoo-cool-for-
schoolattitudeandwiderangeof
streetwearkickers.Theystock
internationalspecial-editionshoes
byIceCream,Nike,andAdidasAdi-
colorline,plusahandfulofregional
weavingthroughseveralblocks
worthofstoreshere.Agoodplace
tostartisHailongShoppingMall,
afive-storymeccawithfamiliarten-
antslikeLenovoandSonyselling
assembledlaptopsandPCs,aswell
asindependentdealersselling
everythingfrommotherboardsto
wirelessheadphones.Thesame
rulesapplyhereasatBaiNaoHui
above.ZhongguanCunDajie.
y
010/8266-3812.Metro:Zhong-
guancun.Mapp54.
English-LanguageBooks
TheBookwormCHAOYANG
Thiscafe,whichdrawsabigexpat
crowd,carriesanexcellentselection
ofcontemporarynovels,bookson
China,andpopularmagazines.We
comeforthebooksandthecom-
pany,butavoidthelacklusterfood.
Bldg.4,NanSanlitunLu.
y
010/
6586-9507.www.beijingbookworm.
com.MC,V.Metro:Gongtibeilu.
Mapp53.
CharterhouseCHAOYANGThis
bookstorehasaniceselectionof
foreignmagazinesElle,National
Geographic,andplentyofhome
decormonthlies.Thebookselec-
tionsnotshabbyeither.StoreB107,
ThePlace.
y
010/6587-1328.AE,
08_630068-ch04.indd599/25/1012:25AM
60
T
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gstorerunbyanEnglish/Canadian
husband-and-wifeteamsells
T-shirtswithhumorous,in-your-face
slogans,likethelabelfromErGou
Tou,acheap112-proofgrainalco-
hol,andaclose-upofaBeijingsub-
wayticket.61NanlouguxiangSt.
y
139/1020-5721.www.plastered.
com.cn.MC,V.Metro:Beixinqiao.
Mapp54.
ShanghaiTangCHAOYANG
ThisHongKongbasedinternational
retaileristheambassadorformod-
ernChinesestyle.Theirclothes
featureluxuriousknitsandsilks
workedintoinnovativeChinese
designs.B1/FoftheGrandHyatt
BeijinginOrientalPlaza(seeShop-
pingCenters&Complexes,p66).
y
010/8518-0898.www.shanghai
tang.com.M,V.Metro:Wangfujing.
Mapp56.
WooDONCHENGIfyourelook-
ingforwispyscarvesorextremely
softcashmerewraps,headoverto
thiscutelittleshop,runbyaShang-
haidesigner,onaquaint,touristy
alleyinBeijingsoldquarter.
110-1Nanlouguxiang.Mapp54.
AsiandesignsbyNike(mostly
space-agelookingstufffromJapan).
280GuLouDongDajie.
y
010/
6402-8262.www.dealkicks.com.AE,
MC,V.Metro:Gulou.Mapp54.
ExceptiondeMixmindCHAOY-
ANGSouthernChinesedesigner
MaKesminimalistdressesand
coatsarepriceyforthequality,but
itcanbeworthapeektoseestyles
byarisingstaroftheChinesefash-
ionworld.ChinaWorldMall(see
ShoppingCenters&Complexes,
p66).
y
010/6505-2268.www.
mixmind.com.AE,DISC,MC,V.
Metro:Guomao.Mapp53.
Lu12.28CHAOYANGLuLiu,
theenergeticyoungdesignerbehind
thisbrand,studiedatParsonsin
NewYorkandParisandcreateswell-
cutfemininedresses,semi-casual
wear,andprofessionalclothes.Luis
oftenatthestoreandpliesplentyof
attentiononherclients.NaliPatio,
81SanlitunBeiLu.
y
010/5208-
6105.www.lu1228.com.MC,V.
Metro:Gongtibeilu.Mapp53.
PlasteredT-ShirtShop
DONGCHENGThisquirkylittle
LuLiudisplayingoneofherdressesatLu12.28.
08_630068-ch04.indd609/25/1012:25AM
PlasteredT-ShirtShop
61
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Frenchfollowing.Sanlitun(behind
3.3FashionPlaza).
y
010/6417-
1093.AE,MC,V.Metro:Gongtibeilu.
Mapp53.
RedPhoenixCHAOYANGHere,
Tibetan-inspiredqipaoscanbecus-
tommadebytheboutiquesdevout
Buddhistdesigner.30SanlitunBeiLu,
Bldg.30.
y
010/6416-4423.AE,MC,
V.Metro:Gongtibeilu.Mapp53.
ShanghaiXuDONGCHENGThis
storeoffersmoderntwistsonfamil-
iarqipaos,liketakingtypicalChinese
printsandpairingthemwithbright
neon-pinkpipingoraflashytur-
quoisetrim.AA10OrientalPlaza(see
ShoppingCenters&Complexes,
p66).
y
010/8518-6376.AE,MC,V.
Metro:Wangfujing.Mapp56.
DiscountFashion
RitanShangwuLou(Ritan
OfficeBuilding)CHAOYANG
Laundry,MaxMara,andBCBG,oh
my!Fromtheoutside,RitanOffice
Buildinglookslikeanyotherdrab
structure,butitisteemingwith
high-qualitywomenswear.Genuine
samplepiecesoutweighthefakes(a
y
010/6400-5395.www.shanghai
woo.com.AE,MC,V.Metro:
Zhangzizhonglu.
Custom-MadeChinese
Fashion
BotaoHauteCoutureCHA-
OYANGWeloveBotaosinnova-
tivedesignsandluxuriousfabrics.
Theyrelikeaffordablecouture;the
storedisplayssamplesthatyou
orderandhavetailoredespecially
foryou.18DongzhimenwaiDajie
(cornerofDongzhimenwaiDajieand
XindongLu).
y
010/6417-2472.AE,
DISC,MC,V.Metro:Gongtibeilu.
Mapp53.
FengYunMenCHAOYANGThis
shopcancustomembroidera
qipao,thehigh-collared,tight-fitting
traditionalChinesedress.Shop
1006,RitanOfficeBldg.,15AGuang-
huaLu,eastofthesouthgateof
RitanPark,nexttoSchindlers.
y
010/8563-0702.AE,MC.V.
Metro:Guanghualu.Mapp53.
HuangYueCHAOYANGThis
Sichuandesignerswhimsical,impe-
rialdressesandcoatsattractaloyal
08_630068-ch04.indd619/25/1012:25AM
62
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featuringready-madesaladsand
sushimakesiteasytopickupa
quicklunchifyoureonthego.Xing-
fuzhongLu,nexttoLianbaoApart-
ments.
y
010/6417-7950.
y
010/
52086105.www.aprilgourmet.com.
MC,V.Metro:Dongsisitiao.Map
p53.
SanyuanliMarketCHAOYANG
Thisisafabulousplacetofindfresh
everything.Themarketsuppliesthe
foreigngrocerystoresandrestau-
rantsaroundtown,soitsourfavor-
itego-toplaceforfetacheeseon
thecheap,handfulsoffreshbasil,
oracoupleoflimesforaproper
ruleofthumb:ifthedesignertag
hasbeensnipped,youreprobably
gettingtherealdeal).Ourfavorite
storeis1008,foritsexcellentselec-
tionofdressesandouterwear.
15AGuanghuaLu,eastofthesouth
gateofRitanPark,nextto
Schindlers.
y
010/8561-9556.M,V
(notallstores).Metro:Guanghualu.
Mapp53.
ZooMarketXICHENGThe
maindrawofthismassivewholesale
marketistheinsanelycheapprices
youllpayforwhatappearstobe
realDianevonFurstenbergdresses
andMarcJacobstops.Thedown-
sides?Itsabitofatrek,sorting
throughthehugenumberofstallsis
exhausting,anditsunlikelythat
therewillbefittingrooms.Bring
cashandweartight-fittingclothes
tomakeiteasytoslippotential
itemsonandoff.Lookforaseriesof
nondescriptbuildingsinfrontofthe
BeijingZoo,hencethenameofthe
market.BeijingDongwuyuanZhou-
bian.Nophone.Nocreditcards.
Metro:Xizhimen.Mapp54.
FoodMarkets
AprilGourmetCHAOYANG
Beijingsmostextensivegrocery
storeforforeignershasallkindsof
goodiesyouvebeenmissingfrom
home,includingagreatrangeof
cheeses,coffee,andbreads.Adeli
AselectionoffreshfishatSanyuanli
Market.
AdressatHuangYue.
08_630068-ch04.indd629/25/1012:25AM
Nocreditcards.Metro:Gulou.Map
p54.
Housewares&Furnishings
GaobeidianAntiqueFurni-
tureVillageCHAOYANGThis
areafeaturesa3km(1
3
4-mile)street
stockedwithstoresthatsellgenu-
ineantique,restored,andantique
reproductionChinesefurniture.
Moststorescanarrangetoship
itemsoverseas.GaobeidianGujiaju
Cun.Themainstreetisrightbefore
therailroadtracks.Mapp54.
Lost&Found
DONGCHENGEchoingthefeelof
RestorationHardware,thislovely
shoponahistoricalleyinBeijing
nearLamaTempleisworthatripfor
itsfurniture,notebooks,ceramics,
andT-shirts.Youcanalsobrowse
thecafesandshopsnearby,
includingtheBannermanToy
Store(p68).42Guozhijian.
y
010/6401-1855.www.lost-and-
found.cn.MC,V.Metro:Yonghe-
gong.Mapp54.
AselectionofhatsatShengxifu.
63
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S
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o
Z
cocktail.Sanyuanli(oppositeJing-
kelongSupermarket,westof
SanyuanDongqiao).Nocreditcards.
Metro:Nongzhanguan.Mapp53.
Gifts&Souvenirs
EsydragonDONGCHENG
Thisisoneofmyfavoriteplacesto
pickupgiftsforfriendsandfamily
backhome.Theyvegotagreat
selectionofchildrenstoys,photo
frames,mugs,andhousewares,all
withChinesemotifs.Thegoodsthey
displayareacoupleofnotches
higherinqualitythanthestuffyoull
findattheknockoffmarketsintown.
191Nanluoguxiang.
y
010/8401-
1516.www.esydragon.cn.MC,V.
Metro:Beixinqiao.Mapp54.
HerboristDONGCHENGThisisa
ChineseversionoftheBodyShop,
withatwist.Thebodyproducts
herearemadewithChinesetradi-
tionalmedicineandweswearby
theantidandruffshampoo.EE05Ori-
entalPlaza(seeShoppingCenters&
Complexes,p66).
y
010/8518-
6573.www.hearborist.com.cn.No
creditcards.Metro:Wangfujing.
Mapp56.
PanjiayuanJiuhuo
ShichangCHAOYANGSeeMar-
kets&Bazaars,p65.
ShengxifuDONGCHENGEstab-
lishedin1912,thisfamedhatshop
istheplacetogetyourproletarian
Maocaporafurryhatwithearflaps
decoratedwithCommunistred
stars.196WangfujingDajie.
y
010/
6525-4752.V.Metro:Wangfujing.
Mapp56.
YandaiAlleyDONGCHENGThis
alleywaysellseverythingfrom
reproductionsofCulturalRevolution
posterstodelicateChinateasets.
Youcanalsobuysomeforme
giftsatthecoolclothingandstatio-
nerystoresnearby.YandaiXiejie,
offthewestsideofDianmenwai
DajieandsouthoftheDrumTower.
08_630068-ch04.indd639/25/1012:25AM
64
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Jewelry
FineJewelersCHAOYANG
Afavoriteintheexpatcommunity,
thisistheplacetogoifyourelook-
ingforcustom-madejewelry.
Theyrehappytoaccommodate
yourowndesignsandevenhave
knockoffsofTiffanyandCartier
designs.Itsgreatforgoldandsilver
jewelry,thoughthequalityofplati-
numisshaky.GongtiDongLu,
ChinaViewBldg.No.3,Room306.
MaLiLianFurnitureCHAOYANG
Thearmchairsandottomansmade
bythisEuropeanexpatriateincorpo-
rateChinesesilk,Belgianlace,
camelhair,andrabbitfur.By
appointmentonly.JianwaiSOHO,
Suite1606,Bldg.14,39DongSan-
huanZhongLu.
y
0/137-0110-1406.
www.malilian.com.Nocreditcards.
PanjiayuanJiuhuo
ShichangCHAOYANGSee
Markets&Bazaars,below.
EvenafterlivinginBeijingforseveralyears,Istillwalkaway
fromsometransactionsthinking:DidIjustgettheforeigner
price?Certainmarketswillabsolutelytakeadvantageoftourists
willingnesstopayhigherprices.Unlessyoureshoppingatmallsor
high-endretailers,youshouldbebargainingwithsalespeoplefora
betterprice.Herearesomegeneralguidelinestoensureasuccess-
fulbargainingexperience:
1.Aimtopayapproximately50%to65%oftheinitialofferingprice.
2.Donotgetupset.FaceisaveryimportantconceptinBeijing.
Ifyougetangryatasalesperson,heorshemayviewitasa
hugelossoffaceandrefusetodealwithyou.
3.Onlyengageinabargainingsessionwhenyouarecommittedto
buying.Changingyourmindafteryouandthevendorhave
settledonapriceisconsideredextremelyrude(vendorswill
loseface),andyouwillmostlikelyfindyourselfonthereceiving
endofoneveryangryrant.
4.Onetechniquetogetpricesdownistopointouttheflawsinthe
garment/item.Showthevendorhowitisnotofverygoodquality
orlethimknowitdoesntquitefityou,soitcannotpossiblybe
worththepriceheisdemanding.Iamnotabigfanofthistech-
niqueandammoreinclinedtousetechniquenumberfive,below.
5.Becomplimentary.Letthesalespersonknowthatwhateveryoure
bargainingforisreallynice,thatthestorehassomanylovely
things,andyoureallywanttobuythisparticularthing,butitsjust
tooexpensive.Iftheycouldjustbringthepricedownacoupleof
morenotches,youwouldbehappytosnatchitup.
6.Keeptheideaofrelativevalueinmind.Ivebeenknowntogetso
sweptupinthemomentthatIvespent20minutesbargainingfor
anextra10discount,onlytostopmyselfandrealizethatsaving
$1.30isnotworththeextratime,effort,andheadache.
Bare-BonesBargaining
08_630068-ch04.indd649/25/1012:25AM
65
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y
010/6592-7118.AE,MC,V.Metro:
Gongtibeilu.Mapp53.
GongmeiDashaDONGCHENG
Atthislargejadestore,youreguar-
anteedtogettherealthing,rather
thanthecoloredglassyoumight
findelsewhere.Bargaindowntoa
thirdofthemarkedprice.Seep44,
bullet3
.200WangfujingDajie.
y
010/6528-8866.V.Metro:Wang-
fujing.Mapp56.
HongqiaoPearlMarketCHON-
GWENPearlsareoneofthemany
itemssoldatthismarket.Alsoavail-
ableareCulturalRevolutionkitsch,
typicalbrand-nameclothing,lug-
gage,andwatches.Thepearlsarea
bigdraw,however,andaresoldin
everysize,shape,andcolor,witha
similarlyvastrangeinprice.9Tian-
tanLu.
y
010/6713-3354.Nocredit
cards.Metro:Tiantandongmen.Map
p54.
YinShu+EAWestCHAOY-
ANGWeloveartistManKaihuis
unique,industrial-lookingjewelry.
Thisboutiquealsosellslocally
TomLee.
MostofthepearlssoldatHongqiao
Shichangaregenuine,thoughlow
quality.
designedsweatersanddresses.
798ArtDistrict,2JiuxianqiaoLu.
y
010/6437-3432.MC,V.Map
p54.
Markets&Bazaars
PanjiayuanJiuhuo
ShichangCHAOYANGThisisthe
mothershipforallyourChinagift
shoppingneeds.Thislargeoutdoor
marketisfilledwithChinesecurios,
paintings,calligraphy,jewelry,Chi-
neserevolutionmemorabilia,ethnic
clothes,ceramics,andfurniture.
Comeearlyinthemorningtofind
thebeststuff;vendorsstarttoleave
around4pm.SouthsideofPanjia-
yuanLu.Nocreditcards.Mapp54.
SilkMarket(XiushuiJie)CHA-
OYANGThisplaceanswersthe
questionmostBeijingvisitorscant
helpbutask:Wheresthefakes
market?Itistemptingtothinkbut
extremelyunlikelythatthese
itemsaretherealdeal,sobargain
hard.Wesuggestyousticktothe
interestingSinogifts,suchassilk
scarvesandnamechops(astamp
madeofwoodorjadeengraved
withtheChinesenameofyour
choice).CornerofJianguomenwai
08_630068-ch04.indd659/25/1012:25AM
66
T
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AshirtatDaves
CustomTailoring.
DajieandXiushuiDongJie.
y
010/
6501-8811.Nocreditcards.Metro:
Yonganli.Mapp53.
YashowMarket(Yaxiu
FuzhuangShichang)CHAOY-
ANGYashowfollowsthesame
formulaastheSilkMarket,butis
biggerandhasbettertailors
(locatedonthe3rdfloor).58Gongti
BeiLu.
y
010/6415-1726.No
creditcards.Metro:Gongtibeilu.
Mapp53.
MusicalInstruments
TomLee(HongSheng)
DONGCHENGThisisadepartment
storeformusicalinstruments;they
haveprettymucheverything.One
coolitemistheFreehandMusicPad
(14,500),adigitalnotebookthat
replacessheetmusic.201Wangfu-
jingDajie(insideLishengSports
ShoppingMall).
y
010/6525-6255.
MC,V.Metro:Wangfujing.Map
p56.
ZhiyinWanliInstruments
DONGCHENGThisstore
carriesenoughtostart
yourownrockband:
guitars,basses,and
amps.Ifyoucantfind
whatyourelookingfor
here,continueweston
themainstreet,where
youllrunintoseveral
drum,bass,andguitar
dudes.Southeastcor-
nerofJiaodaokou
intersection.
y
010/
8403-7683.Nocredit
cards.Metro:Beixinqiao.
Mapp54.
ShoppingCenters&
Complexes
=ChinaWorldTradeCen-
terShoppingMall(Guomao
Shangcheng)CHAOYANGThe
big-labeldesignerstoressuchas
PradaandGucciarethesameas
theyareanywhere,butthismallis
alsohometoatleastoneoriginal
Chinesedesigner,ExceptiondeMix-
mind(p60),andyoucantakethe
kidsforaspinontheicerink.1Jian-
guomenwaiDajie.
y
010/6505-
2288.www.cwtc.com.cn.AE,V,MC.
TheMallsatOrientalPlaza
(DongfangXintianDi)
DONGCHENGThisisWestern-style
consumerismatitsbest,withevery-
thingfromNiketoTiffany&Co.A
feworiginalChineseshopsstand
outfromtheothers(seetheWang-
fujingwalkingtourinchapter3).1
DongchanganJie.
y
010/8518-
6363.www.orientalplaza.com.AE,
MC,V.Metro:Wangfujing.Map
p56.
SanlitunVillageCHAOYANGA
littlepieceofSouthernCalifornia
rightinthemiddleofBeijing,this
shoppingmallhasbecomeallthe
ragewithitscentralplazawitha
waterfountain,amovietheater,
andAmericanoutpostssuchas
ColdStoneandColumbia
Sports.Butifyoudidnt
cometoBeijingforall
that,headafewsteps
northtoNaliPatio,
whereyoullfindbou-
tiqueswithmoreAsian
flavor.SanlitunBeiLu.
y
010/6417-6110.www.
sanlitunvillage.com.AE,
MC,V.Metro:Gongtibeilu.
Mapp53.
ShinKongPlace
CHAOYANGSince
openingin2008,this
mallhasbeenconsid-
eredthebestintown,
withalargeselectionofmidrange
toluxuryinternationalbrands.You
wontfindmuchChinesecharacter
totheplacethough,exceptforin
thelivelyfood-courtbasement.The
mallalsofeaturessomegood
08_630068-ch04.indd669/25/1012:25AM
67
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Youllfindmuchhigherqualityteasat
MaliandaothanyouwillintheWest.
Chineserestaurantsonthesixth
floor.87JianguoLu.
y
010/6530-
5888.AE,MC,V.Metro:Dawanglu.
Mapp54.
Silk,Fabric&Tailors
DavesCustomTailoringCHA-
OYANGThisisoneofthefewtai-
lorsthathashigh-quality,imported
fabrics,butthepricesarepretty
steep,upwardsof4,000.104Kerry
Center,1GuanghuaLu.
y
010/
8529-9433.www.tailordave.com.AE,
MC,V.Metro:Guomao.Mapp53.
RuifuxiangDONGCHENGBehind
asteelbaroquefacadeisthislong-
establishedfabricstorethatonce
suppliedsilktotheQingdynasty
royalty.Thecompanybrochure
claimsthatoneofthefirstChinese
flagsraisedbyChairmanMaowas
madefromRuifuxiangfabric.5Da
Shilan.
y
010/6303-5313.AE,MC,
V.Metro:Qianmen.Mapp54.
XiaoFeiTailorandFabric
ShopCHAOYANGLocatedclose
totheembassydistrict,thistailor
hasdevelopedaloyalfollowing
amongthediplomaticcrowd.Xiao
Fei(themaintailor)andherassis-
tantsalldoexcellentwork,butitwill
probablytakeseveralfittingstoget
thingsjustright.Bldg.1103,35
XinyuanJie.
y
010/8455-1939.No
creditcards.Metro:Nongzhanguan.
Mapp53.
SportingGoods:Clothing&
Equipment
DecathalonCHAOYANGAplace
togettherealstuff.Thisisbasically
anoutletofthesportyFrench
retailer.Ithaseverythingforthe
outdoorsatsignificantlylower
pricesthanwhatyouwouldfind
backhome.195DongsihuanZhon-
glu(cornerofNanmofangLuand
EastFourthRingRoad.).
y
010/
8777-8788.www.decathlon.com.cn.
MC,V.Mapp54.
SanfoCHAOYANGPricesfor
campingandhikingequipmenthere
arerockbottom.Wevebought
gloves,climbingropes,andclothes
here.Itsalsoagreatplacetoget
adviceonlocalhikingspots.1/FJin-
shiqiaoDasha,JianguomenwaiDa
Jie.
y
010/6507-9298.www.sanfo.
com.AE,MC,V.Metro:Guomao.
Mapp53.
Tea&Teapots
MaliandaoXUANWUYoull
findteashopsgalore,butdont
expectanythingcuteorquaint:This
isaChineseclearinghousefortea,
andhugeemporiumswithhundreds
oflittlestallslineawidestreet.Stop
byGuYenFan,3rdfloor,stall28,
justsouthoftheCarrefourSuper-
market,11MaliandaoLu.
y
0/136-
8304-5808,whoseyoungowner,Mr.
Liu,sellsLapsongSuchongbythe
kilo(andsmalleramounts)fromthe
mountainsofAnhuiProvince.
08_630068-ch04.indd679/25/1012:25AM
68
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BuyingPearls
MostofthepearlsonsaleatHong
QiaoShichangaregenuine,
althoughoftoolowqualitytobe
soldinWesternjewelryshops.
However,somefakesarefloating
around.Totestifthepearlsyou
wanttobuyarereal,tryanyoneof
thefollowing:
Nickthesurfacewithasharpblade
(thecolorshouldbeuniformwithin
andwithout)
Rubthepearlacrossyourteeth(this
shouldmakeagratingsound)
Scrapethepearlonapieceofglass
(realpearlsleaveamark)
Passitthroughaflame(fakepearls
turnblack,realonesdont)
Oddly,vendorsaregenerallywilling
toletyoucarryoutthesetests,and
mayevenhelp,albeitwithbemused
faces.Ifyoudrathernotbother
(mostdont),assumetheworst,
shopforfun,andspendmodestly.
SpinCeramics(Fangyuan
Xilu)CHAOYANGModerntwists
ontheclassicmug.Everythingisa
littleoffbeatandcrooked,suchas
teacupswithslightbendsandblob-
shapedsaucers,butitsalldoneina
veryfunkystyle.6FangyuanXilu.
y
010/6437-8649.AE,DISC,MC,V.
Mapp54.
WuyutaiTeaShopDONGCHENG
Thesecondfloorofthisqualitytea
shophasaninterestingexhibitionof
teaculture,includingacollectionof
teapots,andalivelyteahouse.See
p45,bullet5.186Wangfujing
Dajie.
y
010/6525-4961.MC,V.
Toys
BannermanTangsToys
andCraftsDONGCHENGThis
store,runbyfifth-generationtoy
makerTangYujie,isstockedwitha
delightfulcollectionoffigurines,
paperlanterns,andotherchildish
delightsmadefromwood,clay,
paper,andcloth.38Guozijian.
y
010/8404-7179.Nocreditcards.
Metro:Yonghegong.Mapp54.
XinZhongGuoKids
StuffDONGCHENGIn
starkcontrasttothe
intimatefamily-runBan-
nermanTangstoy
store,thistoystore
celebratesallthings
commercial.Some
just-in-Chinatoys,
suchaspuzzlesand
magictricks,are
mixedinwiththe
mainstreamstuff.168
WangfujingDajie.
y
010/6528-
1774.Nocreditcards.Metro:Wang-
fujing.Mapp56.
WhimsicalfigurinesatBannerman
Tangs.
08_630068-ch04.indd689/25/1012:25AM
5
TheBestDining
09_630068-ch05.indd699/25/1012:25AM
70
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D
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i
n
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BestPekingDuck
DaDong$$22DongsiShi
Tiao(p77)
BestHotPot(ChineseFondue)
DingDingXiang$$2/F,Yuanjia
InternationalApartments,Dongzhi-
menwai,DongzhongJie(p78)
BestLunchDealinClassyDigs
Mosto$$(p81)
BestHotelRestaurant
Bei(p76)orSureo(p84)$$$
OppositeHouse,11SanlitunBeiLu
BestforShanghaiSoup
Dumplings
DinTaiFung$$24Xinyuanli
ZhongJie(p78)
BestFlipping-FreshestSushi
Yotsuba$$$2XinyuanliZhong
Jie(p86)
MostPanoramicViewof
QuintessentialBeijing
CapitalM$$$2QianmenBuxing
Jie(p78)
BestSplurge
MaisonBoulud$$$$23Qian-
menDongDaJie(p81)
BestDimSum
LeGalerie$RitanParkSouth
Gate(p80);andLeiGarden$$89
JinbaoJie(p80)
BestPlacetoSetYourTongue
onFire
SichuanProvincialRestaurant$
5GongyuanToutiao,Jianguomen
NeiDajie(p84)
BestNorthern-Style
Dumplings
XianrLaoMan$252Andingmen
NeiDajie(p85)
WackiestDecor
Lan$$$12JianguomenwaiDajieYi
(p80)
BestforVegetarians
PureLotus$$10Nongzhanguan
NanLu(p83)
BestPizza&Beer
TheTree$$Nan43,SanlitunBeijie
Chaoyang(p85)
BestBrunch
TheOrchard$$$Hegezhuang
Cun,CuigezhuangXiang(p83)
BestNoodles
NoodleLoft$$20XiDawangLu,
Chaoyang(p82)
BestandMostUnusual
Desserts
Bellagio$$35XiaoyunLu(p76)
MostRomantic
Courtyard$$$$$95Donghua
MenDajie(p77);andDaliCourt-
yard$$$67XiaojingchangHutong
(p78)
DiningBestBets
Abowlofnoodles
atNoodleLoft.Previ-
ouspage:Adishoffruitat
Luce.
09_630068-ch05.indd709/25/1012:25AM
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09_630068-ch05.indd719/25/1012:25AM
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SanlitunDining
09_630068-ch05.indd729/25/1012:25AM
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09_630068-ch05.indd739/25/1012:25AM
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BlackSesameKitchen5
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TheCourtyard18
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Restaurant17
Dadong16
DaliCourtyard4
DinTaiFung14
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HuajiaYiyuan9
LeiGarden20
MadeinChina22
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BeijingDining
09_630068-ch05.indd749/25/1012:25AM
75
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09_630068-ch05.indd759/25/1012:25AM
76
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thenewSanlitunVillageshopping
mall(seep66).11BeiSanlitunLu.
y
010/6410-5230.300600.AE,
DISC,MC,V.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
BellagioCHAOYANGTAIWAN-
ESEHipclubgoersfrequentthis
Chineseversionofalate-nightdiner
forTaiwanesecomfortfoodand
spectacularice-shaveddessertsthat
resemblecolorfulmountains.6
GongtiXilu,southoftheGongti100
BowlingAlley.
y
010/6551-3533.
60120.AE,DISC,MC,V.Lunch&
dinnerdaily(opentil4:30am).
Metro:Dongsishitiao.Mapp72.
BlackSesameKitchen
DONGCHENGCHINESEFulldisclo-
sure:Theauthorofthisguideowns
thisrestaurantandcookingschool,
butallthesame,wevouchforit
itsoneofthemostuniquedining
experiencesintown.Thekitchen
hostsacommunitydinneronFriday
nightsanditsopenforprivate
bookingsotherdaysoftheweek.
Dinnerincludesa10-coursemeal,
generouspoursofimportedwine,
andanup-frontviewofthecooking.
Cookingclassesareofferedon
ThursdayandSaturdayorbyprivate
appointment.Reservationsarea
must,asthekitchendoesnttake
walk-ins.3HeizhimaHutong(callfor
exactdirections).
y
0/136-9147-
4408.300500.Nocreditcards.
Reservationsrequired.Dinnerdaily.
CapitalMDONGCHENGCONTI-
NENTALThisglamorousrestau-
rantboastsafront-and-centerview
ofTiananmenSquarethatisunique
inallofBeijing.Itsperfectforalei-
surelydinnerorweekendbrunch,
withawiderangeofContinental
dishesonthemenu,cookedbyan
Australianchef.Leaveroomfor
BeiCHAOYANGNORTHERN
ASIANComehereforthefantastic
sushi,particularlythemelt-in-your-
mouthscallopsandtunatasting
plate.TheKoreanandChinese
dishesonthemenuarehit-or-miss.
BeiislocatedinthetrendyOpposite
Househotel,andyoucanfollowup
dinnerwithadrinkatoneofthe
hotelshipbarsorastrollaround
AtoweringdessertatBellagio.
BeijingRestaurantsAtoZ
BeiattheOppositeHousehotel.
09_630068-ch05.indd769/25/1012:25AM
77
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butyouredininginoneofBeijings
finestsettingsjusteastoftheFor-
biddenCity,withaviewofthemoat.
95DonghuaMenDajie.
y
010/6526-
8883.Reservationsrecommended.
250400.AE,DISC,MC,V.Dinner
daily.Metro:TiananmenEast.Map
p74.
CrescentMoonMuslimRes-
taurantDONGCHENGXINJIANG/
MUSLIMThislivelyneighborhood
restaurantservesdishesfromChi-
nasnorthwestprovince,whereCen-
tralAsianandChineseculturehave
combinedtoproduceaunique,
lamb-heavycuisine.Thelambskew-
ersaubiquitousstreetsnackin
Beijingarethebestinthecity.Be
suretogetthechaomianpian,stir-
friednoodlesresemblingmacaroni.
16DongsiLiutiao.
y
010/6400-5281.
50.Nocreditcards.Lunch&dinner
daily.Metro:Dongsi.Mapp74.
DaDongDONGCHENGPEKING
DUCKDaDongsservesthebest
Pekingduckinthecity,edgingout
ourformerfavorite,MadeinChina,
whichhasslippedinrecentyears.
Therestaurantalsoservesanice
rangeofaccompanyingPan-Chinese
dishesinastylishdiningroom.
Arriveearly,astheydonttakeres-
ervations.22DongsiShiTiao.
y
010/
5169-0329.100200.AE,DISC,
MC,V.Lunch&dinnerdaily.Metro:
Dongsishitiao.Mapp74.
dessert:Thepavlova,anAustralian
meringue,islegendaryamong
expatcircles.2QianmenBuxingJie.
y
010/6702-2727.300600.MC,
V.Lunch&dinnerdaily.Metro:Qian-
men.Mapp74.
CepeXICHENGITALIANIf
yourelookingtosplurgeonagood
Westernmeal,doithere.Everything
isoutstandingatthisstylishrestau-
rantintheRitz-Carlton,fromthe
mushroomandcheesetartappe-
tizertothelobsterspaghettitothe
roastedveal.Welovethechocolate
moltencakeandthetiramisu.1
JinchengfangDongJie.
y
010/6601-
6666.www.marriott.com.400
600.AE,MC,V.Lunch&dinner
daily.Mapp74.
ChinaGrillCHAOYANGInterna-
tionalLocatedonthe66thfloorof
theParkHyatt,thisrestauranthas
vertigo-inducingviewsofBeijings
citylights.Themenufeaturespricey
steakandseafood,andanextensive
winelist,makingitagreatdestina-
tionforacelebratorymeal.2Jian-
guomenWaiDajie.
y
010/8567-
1234.5001,000.AE,MC,V.Lunch
&dinnerdaily.Metro:Guomao.Map
p73.
TheCourtyardDONGCHENG
FUSIONThecozysecond-floor
alcoveisoneofourfavoritespotsin
thecityforapredinnerdrink.The
fusionfoodissolid,ifslightlypricey,
AcookingclassinprogressatBlackSesameKitchen.
09_630068-ch05.indd779/25/1012:25AM
78
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Lunch&dinnerdaily.Metro:Nong-
zhanguan.Mapp74.
DingDingXiangDONGCHENG
CHINESEHOTPOTThisstylishres-
taurantfrequentedbyChinese
celebritiesiswherewegowhen
wereinthemoodforChinesefon-
due,adishthatstoooftenserved
ingrimy,cheaprestaurants.Diners
cookfreshveggiesandquality
meatsinsmallindividualpotsatthe
table.Arriveearlyorbepreparedto
wait.2/F,YuanjiaInternational
Apartments,Dongzhimenwai,Dong-
zhongJie(oppositeEastGatePlaza).
y
010/6417-9289.100150.DISC,
Dongzhimen.Mapp74.
ElementFreshCHAOYANG
AMERICANIfyourelookingfor
healthysalads,smoothies,andlight
Continentaldishes,thisrestaurantis
theplacetogo.LocatedintheSanli-
tunVillagemall,thisrestaurantoffers
astylishinteriorandaniceoutdoor
patioforBeijingswarmermonths.
Weekendbrunchesherearepopular
withexpats.19SanlitunLu.
y
010/
6417-1318.100200.AE,DISC,
MC,V.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
DaliCourtyardDONGCHENG
YUNNANRomance,romance!Old
jazztunesplayinatraditionalChi-
nesecourtyarddecoratedwithcoal
furnacesandArtDecofurniture.
Theresnomenuthechefserves
upasetmealincoursessoitsper-
fectforcouplesorsmallgroupswho
wanttotryarangeofsouthwestern
Chinesedishes.67Xiaojingchang
Hutong,GulouDongdajie.
y
010/
8404-1430.100300setdinner,
100300lunch.AE,MC,V.Lunch&
dinnerdaily.Metro:Beixinqiao.Map
p74.
=DinTaiFungCHAOY-
ANGSHANGHAINESEThispopular
Taiwanese-ownedrestaurantwith
locationsaroundAsiaistheonly
placeinBeijingwhereyoullfind
goodxiaolongbao,orShanghai-
stylesoupdumplings.Thesecond
floorfeaturesakidsplayroom.24
XinyuanliZhongJie.
y
010/6462-
4502.100200.AE,DISC,MC,V.
CapitalMsbreathtakingviewofTiananmenSquare.
Dinerscooktheirownmeatsand
veggiesfondue-styleatDingDing
Xiang.
09_630068-ch05.indd789/25/1012:25AM
79
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dinnerdaily.Metro:Zhangzizhonglu.
Mapp71.
HatsuneCHAOYANGJAPANESE
Japanesefoodiswidelyavailablein
Beijing,butthisisourfavoriteplace
togetthepopularAmericanver-
sionsofJapanesecooking,with
favoritessuchasCaliforniaandspi-
derrolls.Payinghomagetothecap-
ital,therestaurantalsofeaturesa
Beijingduckrollwithduck,hoisin
sauce,andcucumbers.2/FHeqiao
Bldg.C,8GuanghuaDongluJia.
y
010/6581-3939.150250.AE,
HuajiaYiyuanDONGCHENGCHI-
NESELocatedinasprawlingout-
doorcourtyard,thisbargain
restaurantisoneofthefewthatwell
visitonthepopulardiningstreet
calledGuiJie(GhostSt.).Unlikemany
oftheotherrestaurantsonthis
street,HuajiaYiyuanservesawide
rangeofgood-qualityChinesedishes,
includingadecentPekingduck.235
DongzhimenNeiDajie.
y
010/6403-
0677.4060.AE,DISC,MC,V.Open
24hr.Metro:Beixinqiao.Mapp74.
HutongPizzaDONGCHENGPIZZA
Wecallthisplacefordeliverywhen-
everapiecravingstrikes.Therestau-
rantitselfisworthatriplocated
downasmallalleyanddecorated
FeitengYuxiangCHAOYANGSICH-
UANESEIfyouwish,youcanseethe
livefishyouselectedforyourmeal
hackedintopieces.Theshuizhuyu,or
water-cookedfish,isamisnomerfor
therestaurantsmostpopulardish.
Thefishisactuallycookedmostly
inoilwithmouth-burningspices
butitsstilldelicious.1GongtiBeilu.
y
010/6417-4988.5080.Nocredit
cards.Lunch&dinnerdaily.Metro:
GreenT.HouseCHAOYANG
FUSIONThisoverratedyetpopular
placeisnotateahouse,butarestau-
rantthatservesber-pretentious,
mediocremeals.Youmayhearraves
aboutitfromout-of-townerswho
haveenjoyedtheexclusivefeel,the
exaggerateddecor,andthecopious
amountsofdryiceusedinthepre-
sentationofdishes.6GongtiXilu.
y
010/6552-8310.200400.AE,
HanCangXICHENGHAKKA
Thelovelylakesideviews,comfort-
abletables,anddeliciousdishes
likethepaper-wrappedfishand
shrimpskewersmakethisrestau-
rantoneofourfavoriteplacesto
takeout-of-townvisitors.12Qianhai
NanYan.
y
010/6404-2259.50
100.Nocreditcards.Lunch&
PreparingPekingduckatDadong.
09_630068-ch05.indd799/25/1012:25AM
80
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g
cabinetsholdwackyitemssuchas
stacksofcannedtunaandMao
memorabilia.DesignedbyPhilippe
Starck,thisflagshipofapopular
chainofSichuanrestaurantsserves
decent,ifoverpriced,dishes.Avoid
thefusionfareatallcosts,andstick
tobasicssuchasthekungpao
chicken.4thFloor,LGTwinsTower,
12JianguomenwaiDajieYi.
y
010/
5109-6012.200400.AE,DISC,
Yonganli.Mapp73.
LeGalerieCHAOYANGDIM
SUM/CANTONESETheresa
debateamongcertainexpatcircles
astowhetherthisrestaurant,orLei
Garden,isthebestdimsumrestau-
rantintown.Thepriceshereare
lowerandthetraditionalcourtyard
settingmighttipthescaleinLeGal-
eriesdirection.Onthesouthern
edgeofRitanPark,youcanstroll
throughthenicegroundstoworkoff
thecalories.RitanParkSouthGate.
y
010/8562-8698.100150.AE,
Metro:Jianguomen.Mapp73.
LeiGardenDONGCHENGDIM
SUM/CANTONESEThisbranchof
apopularHongKongrestaurant
servesagreatselectionofclassic
dimsumitems.Theresalwaysa
buzzhere,whetheritsfilledwith
powerlunchersontheweekdaysor
wealthyfamiliesontheweekends.If
yourelookingforsomethingalittle
withapondandChinesefurniture,its
anunlikelybutrefreshingatmosphere
inwhichtoenjoygiganticsliceswitha
hugeselectionoftoppings.9Yinding
QiaoHutong.
y
010/8322-8916.60
100.Nocreditcards.Lunch&dinner
daily.Metro:Gulou.Mapp71.
KaraiyaSpiceHouseCHAOY-
ANGHUNANAsisterrestaurantof
Hatsune,thistrendyrestaurant
ownedbyaChinese-Americanentre-
preneurmakesspicyHunancuisine
accessibleforaninternationalaudi-
ence.Thehot-and-sourporkribsand
theMandarinfishwithredandyel-
lowchiliesaresignatureitems.Sanli-
tunVillage,3rdfloor,SanlitunBeiLu.
y
010/6415-3535.100200.AE,
Gongtibeilu.Mapp72.
KongYiJiDONGCHENGSHANGHAI-
NESEThisrestaurantbyHouhai
Lakeisoneofthecitysfewplacesto
getsolidShanghainesefare.Its
namedafteradrunkenscholarina
novelbyLuXun,oneofChinasmost
famousauthors.Especiallygoodis
thedongporou,sugarandsoy-
sauce-infusedslicesoffattypork,and
crystalrivershrimp.DeshengmenNei
DaJie.
y
010/6618-4917.80120.
AE,MC,DC,V.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
Metro:Jishuitan.Mapp71.
LanCHAOYANGSICHUANESE/
FUSIONEuropeanRenaissance
stylepaintingshangonthewall,and
TheglossysettingatGreenT.Houseispartoftheappeal.
09_630068-ch05.indd809/25/1012:25AM
81
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littlereasontogoanywhereelsein
BeijingforFrenchfood.Housedin
theformer(pre-1949)American
embassy,Bouludsrefinedsoul
foodgleamsbrilliantly.Theprices
here,whilestillhigh,arecheaper
thanwhattheydbeinNewYork.23
QianmenDongDaJie.
y
010/6559-
9200.5001,000.AE,DISC,MC,V.
Lunch&dinnerdaily.Metro:Qian-
men.Mapp74.
MareCHAOYANGSPANISH
Thehugerangeoftapas,thelarge
winelist,andtheelegant,comfort-
ablediningroommakeusregulars
atthisrestaurant.Welovethemush-
roomrisottoandthedeep-friedbaby
squid.Thechocolatemoltencake,
flankedwithsmallscoopsofhazelnut
andvanillaicecream,isourfavorite
dessertintown.12GuanghuaLu.
y
010/6595-4178.200300.AE,
Guomao.Mapp73.
MostoCHAOYANGCONTEMPO-
RARYSOUTHAMERICANWithan
urban-hipfeel,thisrestaurantserves
inventiveflavors,createdbyaSouth
Americanchef,thatincludeceviches
andsteaks.Agood-valuewinelist
roundsoutapleasantdiningexperi-
ence.Thesetlunches,at70,area
morerelaxed,headtoLeGalerie.89
JinbaoJie.
y
010/8522-1212.150
250.AE,DISC,MC,V.Lunch&dinner
daily.Metro:Dengshikou.Mapp74.
LiJiaCaiDONGCHENG(XICHENG)
IMPERIALCHINESEEventhough
werenothugefansofimperialcui-
sinethefoodsupposedlyserved
toQingdynastyroyaltywemake
anexceptionforthisrestaurant,hid-
deninthehutongs.Theset-menu
mealsarepricedbetween200and
2,000perperson,soatriphere
canfitanyvisitorsbudget.11Yang-
fangHutong.DeshengmenNeiDajie.
y
010/6618-0107.2002,000.No
creditcards.Dinnerdaily.Metro:
Gulou.Mapp71.
LuceXICHENGITALIANThisis
ourfavoriteneighborhoodItalian
restaurant;ithasacool,minimalist
feelratherthanred-checkedtable-
cloths.Weespeciallylovethepenne
withChinesetrufflesandthelamb
chops.138JiugulouDajie.
y
010/
8402-4417.100200.Nocredit
cards.Lunch&dinnerdaily.Metro:
Gulou.Mapp71.
MadeinChinaDONGCHENG
NORTHERNCHINESETheopen-
kitchensetting,whereyoucansee
chefswok-fryingandwrapping
dumplings,letsyouinontheaction.
Inrecentyears,qualityhasslipped
here,butitstillremainsaperennial
favoriteforPekingduckandinven-
tiveicecreamflavorssuchasjas-
mineteaandchampagnepearmade
onthepremises.Expecttopay
higherpricesthanforyourusualChi-
nesemeal,butsomethinkthatthe
buzzyambienceisworthit.1/F
GrandHyattHotel,1Dongchangan
Jie.
y
010/6510-9608.250500.
AE,DISC,MC,V.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
MaisonBouludCHAOYANG
FRENCHEversinceNewYork
celebritychefDanielBouludopened
hisfirstoutpostinAsia,theresbeen
TheentrancetoLeGalerie.
09_630068-ch05.indd819/25/1012:25AM
82
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gNoNameRestaurantXICHENG
YUNNANHiddendownanarrow
alleyisthislittlegemservingsmall
portionsofnoodles,grilledmeats,
andstir-fries.Orderanextradrinkand
kickbackintheMediterranean-style
diningroomtheserviceissuper
slow.1DaJinsiHutong.
y
010/6618-
6061.80120.AE,MC,V.Lunch&
dinnerdaily.Metro:Gulou.Mapp71.
NoodleLoftCHAOYANG
NORTHERNCHINESEThispopular
restaurantservesmorekindsof
noodlesthanyoueverknew
existed.Andthenoodlechefsdis-
playingtheirskillsarenothingshort
ofperformanceartists.Onedish
consistsofasinglelong,hand-pulled
noodle.Therestaurantcanarrange
noodle-makingclassesintheafter-
noons;bookahead.20XiDawang
Lu.
y
010/6774-9950.80150.AE,
Metro:Dawanglu.Mapp74.
NuageXICHENGVIETNAMESE
RickshawsandChineseantiques
giveNuagesdiningroomarustic
feel,whiletheroofoffersapan-
oramicviewoftheDrumTower
area.WelovetheVietnamesecof-
feeandthespringrolls.22Qianhai
DongYan.
y
010/6401-9581.150
250.AE,DISC,MC,V.Lunch&din-
nerdaily.Metro:Gulou.Mapp71.
goodvalue.NaliPatio,81SanlitunBei
Lu.
y
010/5208-6030.200400.AE,
Gongtibeilu.Mapp72.
MyHumbleHouseDONGCHENG
MODERNCHINESEAgoodchoice
ifyoureonanexpenseaccount
youllbeinthecompanyofplentyof
business-suittypes.Whilethefood
isfusion,itmanagestobesolid
withoutbeingtoopretentious.The
slicedroastedduckandtheroasted
rackoflambareparticularlydeli-
cious.Reserveatablebythereflect-
ingpool.1/F,WestBldg.3,Oriental
Plaza,1DongChanganJie.
y
010/
8518-8811.300500.AE,DISC,
Wangfujing.Mapp74.
PreppingmealsatMadeinChina.
MaisonBoulud.
09_630068-ch05.indd829/25/1012:25AM
83
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n
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R
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s
t
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a
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t
s
,
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o
Z
vegetarianfareishardtocomebyin
Beijing,wewontprotesttoomuch.
Amonksupposedlyownstherestau-
rant,butwesuspectthathesmore
ofabusinessman,giventherela-
tivelyhighprices.10Nongzhanguan
NanLu(insideZhongguoWenlian).
y
010/6592-3627.200400.AE,
ShuangFuDONGCHENG
NORTHERNCHINESEThisinexpen-
sive,localrestaurantrarelyfre-
quentedbyforeignersserves
simple,deliciousnortherndishes
thatareheavyonthepotatoesand
noodles.Thematishaobing,orbis-
cuitsshapedlikehorsehooves
servedwithbeef,areworththetrip
alone.9HepingLiWuqu,Eastgate
TheOrchardCHAOYANG
CONTINENTALThisisbyfarour
favoriteplaceforSundaybrunch,
andthe45-minutedrivefromcentral
Beijinggivesusawhiffoffreshcoun-
tryoratleastfreshsuburbanair.
The160buffetoffersdelicioussal-
ads,broiledfish,andyummydes-
serts.Takeastrollintherambling
organicorchardandtheboutique
storeafteryouveindulged.Hege-
zhuangCun,CuigezhuangXiang(call
beforeyougofordetaileddirections;
reservationshighlyrecommended).
y
010/6433-6270.150250.AE,
MC,V.Lunch&dinnerTuesSun.No
metro.Mapp74.
PureLotusCHAOYANGVEGETAR-
IANThepresentationisslightly
overthetop,butsincedecent
Beijingershavefairlytametastesincomparisontotheir
southernChinesecounterparts.Ifyouconsideryourselfanadven-
turouseater,youmightwanttovisitWangfujingNightMarket
(Wangfujingyeshi,westofSundonganGuangchang;nophone).
Amongtheregularskeweredmeatsservedatthisnightmarketare
sticksofscorpionsandsilkwormsandotherbugs.Thescorpions
tastelikepopcorn,andthesilkwormshaveadistinctnuttyflavor
andyes,wevetastedthemall.Thepriceis5perstick,anddinner
isserveddaily.Mapp74.
ExoticEating
ThereflectingpoolatMyHumbleHouse.
09_630068-ch05.indd839/25/1012:25AM
84
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B
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s
t
D
i
n
i
n
g
80120.AE,DISC,MC,V.Lunch&
dinnerdaily.Metro:Dawanglu.Map
p73.
SureoCHAOYANGMEDITTERA-
NEANThemenuisntparticularly
flashypastas,pizzas,andgrilled
meatsdominateyettheclassy
atmosphereandservicemakeit
almostafine-diningexperience.
LocatedintheOppositeHousehotel,
therestaurantputsyourightinthe
heartofBeijingsnightlifescene,with
twohipbarsinthehotelandmany
othersinthevicinity.11SanlitunBei
Lu.
y
010/6410-5240.250400.
AE,DISC,MC,V.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
TajPavilionCHAOYANGINDIAN
TheIndiancommunityinBeijinggen-
erallyagreesthattheTajservesthe
citysbestIndianfood.Thoughabit
pricey,itsthebestplacetotakecare
ofyoursaagpaneerorchickentikka
craving.L1-28WestWingofChina
WorldTradeCenter,1JianguoMen
WaiDajie.
y
010/6505-5866.250
350.AE,DISC,MC,V.Lunch&dinner
daily.Metro:Gulou.Mapp73.
ThreeGuizhouMenCHAOY-
ANGGUIZHOUSourandspicy,the
Guizhoucuisinehereispopularwith
hipandtrendyChinese.Thoughwe
likethepopularhotpot,weneverfail
toorderthecuigu(ribs)andtudouni
(mashedpotatoes).2/F,Bldg.8,
ofDitanPark.
y
010/8422-2388.
dinnerdaily.Metro:Yonghegong.
Mapp74.
SichuanProvincialRestau-
rantDONGCHENGSICHUA-
NESEOwnedbytheSichuan
government,thisbargainrestaurant
servestraditionalfareguaranteedto
setyourmouthonfire.Thedining
roomislivelyandverycrowded.5
GongyuanTouTiao,JianguomenNei
Dajie.
y
010/6512-2277.3050.
Nocreditcards.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
SourceDONGCHENGSICHUANESE
Frequentedbyexpats,thisrestau-
rantinaChinesecourtyardiswhere
youshouldgoifyouwanttoenjoya
quietSichuanesemealinstyle.The
setmenuservedincoursescanbe
hitormiss.14BanchangHutong,
KuanjieNanLuoguXiang.
y
010/
6400-3736.150200.AE,MC,V.
Lunch&dinnerdaily.Mapp74.
SouthSilkRoadCHAOYANG
YUNNANThiswasoneofthefirst
restaurantstoserveYunnancuisine,
quicklysettingatrend.Thedining
roomfeelslikeawarehouseloftand
ispopularwithlocalsandcontempo-
raryartists.Werecommendtheguo-
qiaomixian,orcrossbridgenoodles.
3/FBldg.D,SOHOXiandaiCheng,
88JuanguoLu.
y
010/8580-4286.
TheloftlikediningroomatSouthSilkRoad.
09_630068-ch05.indd849/25/1012:25AM
85
EnjoyingamealonVineyardssunnypatio.
B
e
i
j
i
n
g
R
e
s
t
a
u
r
a
n
t
s
t
o
Z
andcorndumplingssomuchthatI
onceinternedinthekitchentolearn
howtowrapthemmyself.252And-
ingmenNeiDajie.
y
010/6404-6944.
dinnerdaily.Metro:Andingmen.
Mapp74.
XiaoWangFuCHAOYANG
CHINESESofar,thisistheonly
placeweknowofinBeijingwhere
youcangetlemonchicken.(Dont
beembarrassedtoorderaserving.)
Therestaurantalsoservesavery
solidPekingduckandxianglajidjing,
deep-friedchickenwithloadsofred
peppers.Therooftopdeckisenjoy-
ableinthewarmermonths.North
GateofRitanPark,RitanBeiLu.
y
010/8561-5985.80150.AE,
Metro:Guanghualu.Mapp73.
XinjiangIslamRestaurant
XICHENGXINJIANG/MUSLIMEating
atthisrestaurantfeelslikeavisitto
CentralAsia.Groupsofmenwith
moustachesandfurcapstuckintoa
mealofchewynoodlesandlamb
skewersinthegiantmesshall.This
placeisasgoodforpeople-watch-
ingasitisforthefood.Werecom-
mendthekaoyangroubaozi(buns
filledwithlamb).7SanliheLu,Xinji-
angProvincialGovernmentOffice.
GongtiXiLu.
y
010/6551-8517.80
120.AE,MC,V.Open24hr.Metro:
TheTreeCHAOYANGPIZZA
WashdowntheTreesexcellent
thin-crustpizzawithoneoftheir
manybeers.Expatsgatherhere
nearlyeverynightoftheweek.Nan
43SanlitunBeiJie.
y
010/6415-
1954.80120.Nocreditcards.
Lunch&dinnerdaily.Metro:Gongti-
beilu.Mapp72.
VineyardCafDONGCHENG
CONTINENTALThisisoneofour
favoritenewneighborhoodhaunts
thesunnyoutdoorpatioisagreat
placetoenjoylunchorSunday
brunch.Thecafealsoboastswireless
Internetaccessandagoodwine
selection.31WudaoyingHutong
(justnorthoftheConfuciusTemple).
y
010/6402-7961.50150.MC,V.
Lunch&dinnerTuesSun(closed
Mon).Metro:Yonghegong.Map
p74.
XianrLaoManDONGCHENG
BEIJINGBeijingcuisineisntexactly
aregionalhighlightofChinesecui-
sineexceptwhenitcomesto
dumplings.Happily,inexpensive
XianrLaoManhas60kindsoffill-
ingstochoosefrom.Welovethe
cabbageandpeanut,andthepork
09_630068-ch05.indd859/25/1012:25AM
86
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ProvincialGovernmentOffice,7Dong-
huashiBeiliDongqu.
y
010/6713-
6439.4080.Nocreditcards.Lunch
&dinnerdaily.Metro:Jianguomen.
Mapp74.
y
010/6833-5599.3060.No
creditcards.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
Metro:Dongsi.Mapp74.
YotsubaCHAOYANGJAPANESE
AJapanesechefworksinfrontofa
smallbar,whereyoucansitand
watchtheaction.Itsatinyplace,
consistingofthebarandthree
tables,andtheexclusiveexperience
isnottobemissedifyouareasushi
fan.Besuretobookseveraldays
inadvance.2XinyuanliZhongJie.
y
010/6467-1837.250500.AE,
DISC,MC,V.DinneronlyTuesSun.
YueLuDONGCHENGHUNAN
SpicyHunancuisineisservedina
lakesidesettingdecoratedwithtradi-
tionalChinesefurniture.Theduojiao
yutou(fishheadwithchilipeppers)is
highlyrecommended.51-10Dianmen
XiDajie.
y
010/6617-2696.80120.
Nocreditcards.Lunch&dinnerdaily.
Metro:Zhangzizhonglu.Mapp71.
YuntengBinguanDONGCHENG
(CHONGWEN)YUNNANTheresno
atmospheretospeakof,butthisis
theplacetotryauthenticYunnancui-
sine.Specialtiesincludemushrooms
andotherfungus,grilledcheese,and
chickensimmeredinapot.Yunnan
TherooftopdeckatXiaoWangFu.
PatronsdineonauthenticYunnancuisine
atYunteng.
09_630068-ch05.indd869/25/1012:25AM
6
TheBestNightlife
10_630068-ch06.indd879/25/1012:26AM
88
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BestGayClub
Destination,7GongtiXilu(p100)
BestforWine&Cheese
Scarlett,HotelG,A7GongtiXilu
(p102)
BestMartini
QBar,6/FofEasternInnHotel
(p97)
BestKaraoke
KaraokePartyworld,1/FFanliBldg.,
22ChaowaiDajie(p100)
BestHotelBar
Punk,TheOppositeHouse,11Sanli-
tunBeiLu(p98)
BestFindinaHutong
Bed,17ZhangwangHutong
(p94)
BestforChineseCelebrity
Spotting
Lan,4FLGTwinTowers,12BJian-
guomenwaiDajie(p95)
BestOpen-AirBar
FaceBar,26Dongcaoyuan,
GongtiNanLu(p95);andXiu,Park
Hyatt,2JianguomenwaiDaJie
(p97)
Best80sNight
Alfa,5XingfuYicun(p94)
BestforLiveExperimental
Music
MAOLivehouse,111GulouDaJie
(p101);andYugongYushan,3-2
ZhangzhizhongLu(p101)
BestForeignExchangeStu-
dentMeatMarket
Propaganda,100m(328ft.)northof
theeastgateofHuaqingJiayuan
(p98)
BestPub
BlackSunBar,ChaoyangParkWest
Gate(p102)
BestOpen-MicNights
Lush,2/F,1HuaqingJiayuan(p95)
BestSportsBar
ThePavillion,8GongtixiLu(p96)
BestBarforHomesick
Americans
BlueFrog,3F-S4Tower,SanlitunVil-
lage(p94)
BestforLate-NightChats
Apothecary,3/F-NaliPatio,81Sanli-
tunBeilu(p94)
NightlifeBestBets
BeltingitoutatKaraokePartyworld.Previouspage:AraveinaBeijingbar.
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Workers
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MapArea
ForbiddenCity
Templeof
Heaven
TiananmenSq.
SummerPalace
ChaoyangPark
BEIJING
8
1/4mi 0
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Apothecary6
BarBlu4
BlueFrog8
Jazz-Ya7
Punk2
Q-Bar9
Saddle5
TheTree1
WhiteRabbit3
CHAOYANG
SanlitunNightlife
10_630068-ch06.indd909/25/1012:26AM
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CHAOYANG
WorkersStadiumNightlife
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BeijingNightlife
FORBIDDEN
CITY
TIANANMEN
SQUARE
Ditan
Park
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Jingshan
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BlackSun20
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Centro9
Chocolate12
ClubFootball15
Enoteca11
GooseandDuck22
KaraokePartyworld13
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MAOLivehouse2
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KTV
NewGetLuckyBar17
PalaceViewBar6
PaletteVino5
Redmoon7
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Souk19
SuzieWongs21
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10_630068-ch06.indd929/25/1012:26AM
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16
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10_630068-ch06.indd939/25/1012:26AM
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TSINGHUA
UNIVERSITY
HAIDIAN
Wudaokou
ChengfuLu
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D-221
Lush2
Propaganda4
Zub3
500ft 0
0100m
MapArea
ForbiddenCity
Templeof
Heaven
TiananmenSq.
SummerPalace
ChaoyangPark
BEIJING
UniversityDistrictNightlife
Bars
AlfaCHAOYANGThisSouth-
eastAsianbarfeaturescomfypri-
vateboothsonthesecondfloorand
anoutdoorpatio.Thesmall,claus-
trophobicdancefloorisfunonFri-
dayswhentheDJspins80smusic.
5XingfuYicun(inthealleyopposite
theWorkersStadium).
y
010/6413-
0086.Metro:Dongsishitiao.Map
p91.
ApothecaryCHAOYANG
FeaturingdrinksfromAmericas
Southsuchasmintjuleps,whiskeys,
andbourbons,thiswood-paneled
wallbarhasbecomeafavorite
amongBeijingsexpatcommunity.
ThebarispartlyownedbyanAmer-
icanchefwithsouthernroots,and
hescookedupanicesidemenuof
dishestogoalongwiththedrinks.
3/F-NaliPatio,81SanlitunBeilu.
y
010/5208-6040.Metro:Gongti-
beilu.Mapp90.
BedXICHENGOnSaturday
nights,youremostlikelytofindus
herewelovethemojitosandsan-
griasandthebarsminimalistyet
traditionalChinesefeel.TheDJspins
technoandhouse,whilelocals
loungeintheoutdoorcourtyard
andsmalleralcovesfurnishedwith
opiumbeds.17ZhangwangHutong.
y
010/8400-1554.Metro:Gulou.
Mapp89.
BlueFrogCHAOYANGIf
yourecravingatasteofAmerica,
headtothisbarandrestaurant
BeijingNightlifeAtoZ
10_630068-ch06.indd949/25/1012:26AM
95
B
e
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i
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h
t
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f
e
t
o
Z
Hazara.26Dongcaoyuan,Gongti
NanLu(justsouthofWorkers
Stadiumsouthgate).
y
010/6551-
6788.Metro:Chaoyangmen.Map
p91.
Jazz-YaCHAOYANGWevehad
morethanonenastyhangoverfrom
drinkingpitchersofLongIslandiced
teasatthisplace.Butstillwego
backwecanthelpourselves
theyrethebestdrinksintown.This
barisagreatplacetohaveloud,
inebriatedchatswith20ofyour
closestfriends.18SanlitunBeilu
(besideNaliMarket).
y
010/6415-
1227.Metro:Gongtibeilu.Map
p90.
LanCHAOYANGEuropeanpaint-
ingshangontheceiling,whilethe
cabinetscontainrandomcollections
ofbooks,pickles,andcansoftuna.
ItsabadPhilippeStarcknightmare,
yetsomehowahitamongBeijings
expatsandnouveauriche.4FLG
TwinTowers,12BJianguomenwai
Dajie.
y
010/5109-6012.Metro:
Jianguomen.Mapp92.
LunaLoungeDONGCHENGThis
isaperfectplacetohostasmall
party.Theloungeisbeautifully
designedanddecorated.Itspartof
therestaurantLuce,soifyoufancy
aplateoftrufflepennewiththat
glassofwhitewine,youreinthe
rightplace.138JiuGulouDajie.
y
010/8402-4417.Metro:Gulou.
Mapp89.
LushHAIDIANThismodestbar
haseverythingastudentcouldask
forgreatlivemusicandcheap
drinks.Lushhasregularopenmic
nights,movienights,andweekend
DJsets.2/F,1HuaqingJiayuan.
y
010/8286-3566.www.lushbeijing.
com.1020cover.Metro:Wuda-
okou.Mapp94.
NoNameBarXICHENGWere
longtimeloyalcustomersofthisbar,
thefirsttoopenatHouhaiLakein
featuringagoodselectionofbeers
andwinesandcasualdininginthe
warmermonths,youllfindanice
alfrescopatiotosoakupthesun,plus
itscentrallylocatedintheSanlitun
Villagemall(p66).3F-S4Tower,Vil-
lageatSanlitun.
y
010/6417-4030.
DrumandBellDONGCHENG
Welovetheintimateatmosphereof
thisplace,nestledbetweenthe
DrumandBelltowers.Therooftop
patiooverlooksacourtyardwhere
youoftenseelocalsplayingChinese
hackysackoracasualgameofsoc-
cer.StovesinsidekeepDrumand
Belltoastywarminthewinter.41
ZhonglouwanHutong.
y
010/8403-
3600.Metro:Gulou.Mapp89.
FaceBarCHAOYANGPenny-
pinchingBeijingexpatscomplain
abouttheexorbitantpricesfor
drinksatFaceBar,butitsstill
cheaperthanHongKongorNew
York.Plus,yougetasophisticated,
SoutheastAsianinspireddecorthat
incorporatesBuddhiststatues.The
baralsocontainstherestaurant
Apothecary.
10_630068-ch06.indd959/25/1012:26AM
96
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e
SaludDONGCHENGMostofthe
barsonNanluoguxiangareboring
placeswithbadmusicandreally
baddrinks.Saludisanexception.
Thecozychairsmakeitaperfect
placetochilloutwithagroupof
friends,andthedrinksaremade
withattentiontodetail.66Nan-
luoguxiang.
y
010/6402-5086.
Metro:Beixiniqao.Mapp92.
SoukLoungeCHAOYANGSouk
iskindoflikeBed(p94),butfor
peoplewholiveontheeastsideof
town.Theyhaveantiqueopium
bedswhereyoucancozyupwith
friendsoverdrinksandanorderof
strawberry-flavoredtobacco
servedinawaterbong.WestGate
ofChaoyangPark(inthealley
nexttoItalianrestaurantAnnies).
y
010/6506-7309.Mapp92.
CocktailBars
CentroCHAOYANGItsbeena
standbyformorethanadecade,
andcontinuestobepopularamong
thebusinesssuits,butCentrosfeel-
ingalittlewornthesedays.Itsa
decentplaceforacocktailifyou
happentobeinthearea,though,
2000.Dozensofcopycatsnowdot
thegroundsaroundthelake,but
nonehavebeenabletoduplicateNo
Namesterrificformulaofrelaxed,
chill-outvibeandsimplecocktails.3
QianhaiDongyan.
y
010/6401-8541.
Metro:Gulou.Mapp89.
PalaceViewBarDONGCHENG
Comefortheview,thebestpan-
oramainBeijing,whichmorethan
makesupforthemediocredrinks.
OpenJunetoOctober.35Dong
ChanganJie.
y
010/6513-7788,ext.
458.Metro:TiananmenEast.Map
p92.
ThePavillionCHAOYANGNes-
tledinapark,thisplaceisarefuge
fromsomeofBeijingsloudestand
mostobnoxiousnightclubs.The
PavillionhasasophisticatedEuro-
peandecorandpossiblythelargest,
grassiestoutdoorseatingareathe
cityhastooffer.Formajorsporting
events,theysetupagiantoutdoor
screeninthehugebackyard,making
ittheperfectplacetokickbackwith
somefriendsandabeer.8Gongtixi
Lu(oppositewestgateofWorkers
Stadium).
y
010/6507-2617.Metro:
AviewofthepopularHouhaiLakebarandrestaurantarea.
10_630068-ch06.indd969/25/1012:26AM
97
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o
Z
someone,asitspartoftheglittering
newParkHyatthotel,oneofthemost
prestigiousaddressesintown.F/6-
ParkHyattBeijing,2Jianguomenwai
DaJie.
y
010/85671108.Metro:
Guomao.Mapp92.
DanceClubs
andoccasionaljazznightslivenup
thescene.1/FKerryCentreHotel,
1GuanghuaLu.
y
010/6561-
8833,ext.42.Metro:Guomao.Map
p92.
QBarCHAOYANGTechni-
cally,itsahotelbar,butQisacouple
ofstepsupfromitsblandtwo-starsur-
roundings.Thebartenders,George
andEcho,arelegendaryformixingthe
citysbestcocktails,andtherooftop
deckattractsasolidfollowingof
expats.6/FofEasternInnHotel(inter-
sectionofSanlitunNanLuandGongti
NanLu).
y
010/6595-9239.www.
qbarbeijing.com.Mapp90.
RedmoonDONGCHENGSome-
whatstuffyandfullofRolex-sport-
ingbusinessmen,thisbarinthe
GrandHyattservesexcellentmixed
sakedrinks(trythemojitosake)and
hasasushibar.1DongChangan
Dajie(mainfloorofGrandHyatt
Hotel).
y
010/8518-1234,ext.6366.
TheSaddleCHAOYANGThis
popularMexicancantinaservesthe
usualdrinksyoudexpecttofindin
suchasetting(margaritas,daiquiris,
beers)anddecentbarfood.Located
intheSanlitunbararea,thereare
plentyofplacesahopawayfrom
here.2/F-NaliPatioEast,81Sanlitun
Beilu.
y
010/5208-6005.Metro:
Tuanjiehu.Mapp90.
TheTreeCHAOYANGTheTree
hasagreatselectionofbeers(were
addictedtotheBelgianframboise),
plusgoodthin-crustpizza.Acover
bandusuallyplaysonweekends.43
SanlitunBeijie(behindPoachers
Inn).
y
010/6415-1954.Metro:
Gongtibeilu.Mapp90.
XiuCHAOYANGOneofthe
moreflashiersettingstohitBeijingin
thelastyearorso,Xiudeliversahap-
peningscene,cocktails,andanice
outdoorpatioforthewarmermonths.
Itstheperfectplaceforimpressing
CoverCharges
Beijingclubsusuallydonthavea
covercharge.Visitinginternational
DJsorlivemusicactsaretheexcep-
tions,butrarelywillyoupaymore
than50.
BarBluCHAOYANGTheyloveto
spinTop40tunes,anditcanbea
bitofameatmarketontheweek-
ends,butitsallingoodfun.Week-
dayhappyhoursaredownright
dangerous.Serversbringyoua
remotecontrol,youpressabutton,
anddependingonyourluckyou
mightgetatwo-for-onedeal,pay
20foranything,orgetdrinkson
thehouse.Wereusuallyshattered
bysix.4/F,5/FTongliStudio,Sanli-
tunBeiJie.
y
010/6417-4124.
Metro:Tuanjiehu.Mapp90.
BlingCHAOYANGThename
explainsitall.Thisclubpridesitself
onbeingglamorousandindulgent,
fromthehalfCadillacDJbooth
whosevariousDJsplaydanceand
hip-hopmusic,tothediamond
shadesthatsectionofftherooms.
Thecrowdgenerallygetsglammed
uptopartyandordersbottlesof
liquororchampagneforapoten-
tiallyrowdynight.Solana#51,6
ChaoyangParkRd.
y
010/5905-
6999.Metro:Mapp92.
ChocolateCHAOYANGFre-
quentedbyvodka-shootingCentral
AsiansandRussians,thisnightclub
isaone-of-a-kindexperienceif
youreupforanadventure.19Ritan
Beilu(northwestcornerofRitan
10_630068-ch06.indd979/25/1012:26AM
98
T
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B
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s
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N
i
g
h
t
l
i
f
e
notseen).Propagandaisthebass
pumpingclubofthestudentdistrict.
Itsdancefloorhaswitnessedmany
ahotandheavymake-outsession.
100m(328ft.)northoftheeastgate
ofHuaqingJiayuan.
y
010/8289-
3991.Metro:Wudaokou.Mapp94.
PunkCHAOYANGLocatedin
theOppositeHousehotel,thisbase-
mentclubhostsmanylocalandfor-
eignDJsandoffersaninnovative
drinklist.Itsintimatesizemakesit
moreapproachableforthosewary
ofstadium-sizedancehalls.Mesh,a
moresedateloungeonefloorabove
Punk,caterstoagay-friendlycrowd
andservesdeliciouscocktailslike
thepassionfruitandlycheemarti-
nis.B/1-TheOppositeHouse,11San-
litunBeiLu.
y
010/6410-5222.www.
barpunk.com.Metro:Tuanjiehu.Map
p90.
SuzieWongsCHAOYANGSuz-
iesattractsamixedgroupofparty
goers,andwelovethepeople-
watchinghere.Ifyouneedabreak
fromthethumpinghousemusicor
Top40beatsonthefirstandsec-
ondfloors,headtothebalcony,
Park).
y
010/8561-3988.www.club-
chocolate.ru.Mapp92.
CocoBananaCHAOYANGOne
ofthenewestnightclubsonthe
scene,thisvenuehostsbiginterna-
tionalDJs.Theydrawagooddanc-
ingcrowdwiththeirhipfloorand
livego-godancers.6GongtiXilu.
y
010/8599-9999.www.ve-v.com.
MixCHAOYANGTruthbetold,
themuscle-boundbouncersatthis
clubscareus.Butallthatmuscleis
inplacetokeepouttheriffraffand
makesurenothingbutgood,clean
funistakingplaceinsidethisthump-
inghip-hop/DJ-beatsnightclub.
InsideNorthGateofWorkersSta-
dium.
y
010/6530-2889.Metro:
NewGetLuckyBarCHAOYANG
Alargedancefloorfullofyoung
thingsgyratingtohip-hopbeats
makeyourchancesofgettinglucky
prettydecent.A1XingbaLu,Nuren
Jie.
y
010/8448-3335.Mapp92.
PropagandaHAIDIANThisisthe
placetosee(andhopethatyoure
AnightviewoftheSanlitunscene.
10_630068-ch06.indd989/25/1012:26AM
99
B
e
i
j
i
n
g
N
i
g
h
t
l
i
f
e
t
o
Z
whichisusuallyreservedforquiet
chatsandsomewind-downtime.1A
NongzhanguanLu(ChaoyangPark
westgate).
y
010/6500-3377.Map
p92.
TangoDONGCHENGYoucould
getlostinthiscavernousnightclub
nearDitanPark.Beaded-curtain
areasonthesecondflooroffera
greatviewofthecitys20-some-
thingsonthedancefloor.Themusic
rangesfromhip-hoptoelectronica.
DitanParksouthgate.
y
010/6428-
2288.Metro:Yonghegong.Map
p92.
VicsCHAOYANGThisdanceclub
playsamixofR&B,pop,andsoul
music.Theyvealsogotarelax-
ationzoneplayingtrancemusic.
WorkersStadium,northgate.
y
010/6593-6215.Metro:Gongti-
beilu.Mapp91.
WhiteRabbitCHAOYANG
Thisrecentlyrelocateddancehall
hasbeenredesignedtooptimize
dancingandhousemusic.Knownto
TheofficialChinesetranslationofkaraokeiskalaOK,butevery-
onecallsitKTV.KTVisliketheoperaitsanartformthatyou
eitherloveorhate.Atfirst,Ibelongedtothelattercamp.Ive
alwayslovedsinging,butitseemedmuchtoonerdytoadmitthatI
actuallylikedgoingtokaraoke.ButKTVhallsinChinaarenothing
likethehuge,publickaraokebarsweveexperiencedelsewhere.
Hereyougetyourownprivateroomequippedwithcomfyleather/
pleathersofas,abig-screentelevision,acomputertoinputsongs,
andtwoorthreemicrophones.Youcanrequestmusicalinstru-
mentssuchastambourinesandsalsashakers.Pressabuttonand
aserviceattendantwillinstantlyappear,readytodelivercoldbeer
orabottleofwhiskey.Andasifthatwerentenough,alotofKTV
hallscomeequippedwithhugebuffets.Youcanstuffyourselfwith
friednoodlesandfrenchfries,orpamperyoursore-from-singing
throatwithchrysanthemumteabetweensongs.Rockingoutto
yourfavorite80ssongswithaclosegroupoffriendsisaguaran-
teednightoffun.Iloveit.
KalaOK
TravelTip
Menbeware:Walkingalongthemain
barstreet,Sanlitun,mayrequire
somepatienceandcarefulnaviga-
tion.Barhawkersoftenapproach
foreign-lookingmenwithoffersof
ladybarsorladyservices.They
drawthelate-nightdancecrowdat
about3or4am,thedanceflooris
surroundedbyplentyoflounging
areatosiponcocktailsandabsorb
loud,pumpingmusic.2/F-TongliStu-
dio,SanlitunBackStreet.
y
0/133-
2112-3678.Metro:Tuanjiehu.Map
p90.
ZubHAIDIANHeadheretohang
withBeijingsstudentcrowd.This
placeisrunbyanAussie-expatwho
usedtoownfitnesscentersacross
town.Perhapsthatswhythereare
allthosebuffyoungbodsshakinit
onthedancefloor.B1/F,Bldg.12,
HuaqingJiaYuan.
y
010/8286-
6420.Metro:Wudaokou.Mapp94.
10_630068-ch06.indd999/25/1012:26AM
100
CoverCharges
Coverchargesforthevenueslisted
belowvarydependingonthemusi-
calacts.Pricesforbigger-namecon-
certsareusually200to500.For
localbands,pricesshouldbe
around30to50.
canbeverypersistent,grabbingat
sleevesandtugging.Youareunlikely
toencounterthisifyouareoutwith
femalecompanions,butifyoure
not,keepyoureyesstraightahead
andsimplywalkon.Eventuallythe
hawkerswillgiveup.
T
h
e
B
e
s
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N
i
g
h
t
l
i
f
e
MelodyCHAOYANGThispopular
karaokechainhasadecentselec-
tionofEnglishsongs.A-77Chaoy-
angmenwaiDajie(northwestof
LandaoBldg.).
y
010/6551-0808.
Privateroom79189perhour.
Metro:Chaoyangmen.Mapp92.
LiveMusic
Gay&Lesbian
DestinationCHAOYANG
Beautifulhunkymencrowdthissweaty
nightclubfeaturingabusydancefloor.
AstobeexpectedfromBeijings
bestgayclub,themusic,houseand
techno,issomeofthehottestintown.
7GongtiXilu.
y
010/6551-5138.
www.bjdestination.com/index_en.htm.
Karaoke
KaraokePartyworldCHAOYANG
LikemostotherWesterners,Iused
toresisttheurgetobeltoutoff-key
renditionsofWhitneyHoustonwith
ourChinesefriendsandcolleagues.
ThenonenightIapproachedthemic
andgothooked.Partyworldiswhere
Igetmymonthlyfixthemultistory
emporiumofferslargeprivaterooms
andanextensivemenuofEnglish-
languagetunes.1/FFanliBldg.,22
ChaowaiDajie.
y
010/6588-3333.
Privateroom72190perhour.
Metro:ChaoyangMen.Mapp92.
Mesh.
2KolegasCHAOYANGIts
slightlyout-of-the-waylocation,onthe
groundsofadrive-inmovietheater,
makethisanundergroundlive-music
hangout.Itsgotanicehippie,happy
feel.21LiangmaquiaoLu,insidethe
drive-inmovietheaterpark.
y
010/
6436-8998.www.2kolegas.com.No
metro.Mapp92.
D-22HAIDIANItsalongway
fromthecenteroftown,butthis
tighttwo-floorvenueisthebest
placeforexperimentalmusicacts.
Oncertainweekdays,theclubhosts
arthousemovienights.13Chengfu
10_630068-ch06.indd1009/25/1012:26AM
101
B
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o
Z
TheStarLiveDONGCHENG
Thecoolmusicacts(ZiggyMarley,
TheRoots,SonicYouth)arefinally
comingtoBeijing,andtheyseemto
likeplayingattheStarLive.This
placeisnothinglikethumping,
downstairsneighborTango(p99);
rather,itissmallandintimate,with
excellentacoustics.3/F,Tango,70
HepingXijie(50m/164ft.northof
subwaystation).
y
010/6425-5677.
www.thestarlive.com.Metro:Yong-
hegong.Mapp92.
YugongYishanCHAOYANG
Thislongtimemusicclubrecently
relocatedtoaswankiersettingina
historicbuildinginBeijingsformer
imperialquarters.ItisoneofBei-
jingsbestdestinationsforlive
music,DJs,rock,jazz,andtheocca-
sionalinternationalact.Yourelikely
toseelotsoftrendyBeijingyouth
loiteringoutside.3-2Zhangzizhong
Lu.
y
010/6404-2711or010/8402-
8477.www.yugongyishan.com.
Metro:Zhangzizhonglu.Mapp92.
Pubs&SportsBars
BallHouseDONGCHENGOkay,
BallHousedoesntscreenanysport-
ingevents,butitdoeshaveasporty
atmospheretogoalongwithits
threepooltables.Thereareseveral
Lu.
y
010/6265-3177.www.d22
beijing.com.Mapp94.
EastShoreJazzClubCHAOY-
ANGLocatedonthebanksofHou-
haiLake,thisistheperfectplacefor
aromanticdrink,aslongasyou
dontmindthecrowded,smokyset-
ting.Takeawalkaroundthelake
eitherbeforeorafterlisteningtoa
jazzset.2/F,2QianhaiNanyanLu,
Houhai.
y
010/8403-2131.Metro:
Gulou.Mapp89.
JiangjinjiuBarDONGCHENG
Thisbar,alongthewestsideofthe
DrumandBellTower,drawsasmall
butloyalcrowdofmusiclovers.The
wooden,homeyinteriorisgoodfor
acoldpintofBeijingbeerandlisten-
ingtolivemusic,rangingfromfolk
toMongolianthroatsinging.
2ZhongkuAlley,westsideofthe
squareatDrumandBellTower.
y
010/8405-0124.Metro:Gulou.
Mapp89.
MAOLivehouseDONGCHENG
Thislive-musicvenueisbackedby
theJapaneselabelBadNews,home
ofthelocalpunkbandBrainFailure.
Plentyofaspiringpunkrockershave
alreadybecomeloyalfans,toboth
thebandandthebar.111Gulouda-
jie.
y
010/6402-5080.Metro:Beixin-
qiao.Mapp92.
Tangosneonsign.
10_630068-ch06.indd1019/25/1012:26AM
102
T
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esportsfansheadtothis24-hourbar
towatchlivegamesbroadcastat
unheard-ofhours.Bldg.1,105Yao
JiaYuanRd.
y
010/5928-3045.
www.gdclub.net.cn.Mapp92.
RedBallFootballClub&Bar
CHAOYANGThisplacehasan
open-airbarrightbesidetwofive-a-
sidefootball(soccer)pitches.You
canshowoffhowyourpenaltykick
skillsareinnowayaffectedbythe
amountofbeeryouconsume.
GongtiBeilu.
y
010/6413-2848.
WineBars
EnotecaCHAOYANGIfyouhap-
pentobeintheCentralBusiness
District,thiswinebarfeaturesa
decentselectionofredsandwhites
plusasmalldinnermenu.Itssitu-
atedinamall,andIfindthesetting
alittlelackingbutthatcouldbe
saidofmostofthedistrict!M102
NorthernTower,ThePlace,9AGuan-
ghuaLu.
y
010/6587-1578.www.
enoteca.com.cn.Metro:Yonganli.
Mapp92.
PaletteVinoSHUNYIThis
hard-to-findwinebar,locatedinthe
narrowalleysofcentralBeijing,is
worthseekingoutforitshugeselec-
tionofinternationalwinesandits
intimatesetting.Thebaralsofea-
turesaniceContinentalsetmenu
andsellstakeoutbottlesifyouve
discoveredanewfavorite.5Dongsi
Shiyitiao.
y
010/6405-4855.Metro:
ScarlettCHAOYANGLocated
inthetrendyHotelG,thiswinebar
isoneofmyfavoritehangoutsin
town.Theyfeatureaniceselection
ofEuropeancheesesandmain
dishesinabrasseriesettingwith
reasonablypricedwines.HotelG,
A7GongtiXilu.
y
010/6552-2880.
Metro:Chaoyangmen.Mapp91.
loftsandprivateareassoyoucan
breakoffinsmallgroupstohave
privatechats.40Zhonglouwan
(behindandtotheleftofHosanna
Caf).
y
010/6407-4051.Metro:
Gulou.Mapp89.
BlackSunBarCHAOYANGThe
closestthingtoaneighborhoodpub
inBeijing,BlackSunBaroffersfoos-
ball,apooltable,anddarts,along
withbudget-friendlybeers.Chaoy-
angParkwestgate.
y
010/6593-
6909.Mapp92.
ClubFootballCHAOYANGThis
cozyjointhastelevisionsinevery
corner,anditshowsprettymuch
everysportingevent.Itstheperfect
placetograbacheapbeer,hang
outwithyourmates,andwatcha
bitoffootball.Theyvealsogot
greatbarsnacks.10ChunxiuLu.
y
010/6416-7786.Metro:Dongzhi-
men.Mapp92.
GooseandDuckCHAOY-
ANGDiehardSuperBowland
KTV(orKaraoke)isextremelypopularin
Beijing.
10_630068-ch06.indd1029/25/1012:26AM
7
TheBestArts&
Entertainment
11_630068-ch07.indd1039/25/1012:26AM
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Beihai
TaorantingPark
WangfangtingPark
Yuyuantan
Park
Zizhuyuan
Park
Olympic
Park
NationalForestPark
Haidian
Park
Nanhai
Zhonghai
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Qianhai
Yuyuantan
Kunming
Hu
Fuhai
TiananmenSq.
FORBIDDEN
CITY
DrumTower
Old
SummerPalace
Ruinsof
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BeiSihuanXiLu
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HuayuanBeiLu
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WuhuanLu
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XizhimenwaiDajie
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FuxingLu
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DianchangLu
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FengtaiBeiLu
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enDongbinheLu
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Xuanwumen
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78
9
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2mi 0
02km
TheBeijingDanceAcademy2
BeijingModernDanceCompany9
BeijingPeoplesArtTheatre15
BeijingPlayhouse28
Bookworm24
CentralAcademyofDrama12
CentralConservatoryofMusic5
ChaoyangTheatre21
CherryLaneMovies13
ChinaConservatoryofMusic1
ChinaFilmArchivesArtCinema3
FrenchCultureCentre19
GardenBooks18
HartCentreofArts29
BeijingArts&Entertainment
Previouspage:ThePekingOpera.
11_630068-ch07.indd1049/25/1012:26AM
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Templeof
Heaven
Park
Beijing
Amusement
Park
Chaoyang
Park
Taiyanggong
Park
Ditan
Park
RitanPark
Nanhu
BeiSihuanZhongLu
XiaoyingBeiLu
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XindianLu
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LaiguangyingDongLu
G
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BeiSanhuanZhongLu
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PufangLu
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ChaoyangLu
Y
a
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30
28
12
11
13
24
19
18
20
21
22
23
15
16
17
29
14
27
26
25
InstitutoCervantes20
ItalianEmbassy26
TheLivingDanceStudio30
MeiLanfangPekingOpera10
MexicanEmbassy27
NationalBalletofChina7
NationalCentreforthe
PerformingArts6
NationalTheatreCompany
ofChina4
OrientalPlazaCinemas16
PenghaoTheater11
PeonyPavilion14
RedTheatre17
SanlitunVillage25
TianqiaoAcrobaticTheatre8
TNT(TheNineTheaters)22
WandaCinemas23
11_630068-ch07.indd1059/25/1012:26AM
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BestSeasonalEvent
BeijingInternationalFestival
ChorusMessiah,ForbiddenCity
ConcertHall,ZhongshanPark(p108)
BestArchitecture
NationalCentreforthePerform-
ingArts,WestoftheGreatHallof
thePeople,TiananmenSquare
(p109)
BestTraditionalChinese
Theater
PeonyPavilion(p111)
BestTraditionalChinese
Dance&ChineseMinority
Dance
TheBeijingDanceAcademy,19
MinzuXueyuanNanlu(p109)
BestAcrobatShow
TheBeijingAcrobaticTroupe,
TianqiaoTheatre,95TianqiaoMar-
ketSt.(p107)
BestBrainyNightOut
Bookworm,4SanlitunNanLu
(p107)
BestClassicalTunes
CentralConservatoryofMusic,
43Baojiajie(p108)
BestModernDanceTroupe
BeijingModernDanceCompany,
7WestChanganJie(p109)
BestPlacetoSpotRisingStars
PenghaoTheater,35Dongmianhua
Hutong,JiadaokouNanDajie(p112)
BestPlacetoMeettheDirec-
torsofAvant-GardeFilms
CherryLaneMovies,3Zhangzi-
zhongLu(p110)
Arts&EntertainmentBestBets
Ifyouwaituntilthenightofaperformance,youcanoftenbuy
high-endticketsforhalf,orevenaquarter,ofthefacevalue.Beijing
doesnthavealegitimatediscountticketvendor(suchasNewYorks
TKTS)thatsellsday-ofticketstostageevents.Butifyoufindyourself
withoutaticketonthenightofaperformanceyoudlovetosee,and
cantaffordtheremainingtop-endseats,youcanusuallyscorea
gooddealfromascalper.Hereshowitworks:Alotofhigh-end
ticketsaredistributedtosponsorsortocompanyemployeeswithno
interestinattendingtheperformance.Instead,therecipientshead
tothevenueonthenightoftheeventandselltheirticketscheaply
(theygotthemforfree,soits100%profitnomatterwhattheyget)to
thescalpersoutside.Thescalperswillthentrytoresellthemtopass-
ersbyortopeoplelookingforalast-minuteticket.
DiscountTickets
11_630068-ch07.indd1069/25/1012:26AM
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o
Z
WhatsPlaying?
Twolocalexpatriatemagazines,The
BeijingerandTimeOut(bothmonth-
lies),haveexcellentup-to-dateinfor-
mationregardingthevariousstage,
theater,andmusiceventsintown.
Tobuytickets,trywww.piao.com
orwww.piaowutong.com.These
onlineticketagentssellticketsto
mostofthemajorshowsintown
andwillevendeliverthemforfree
ifyourestayingincentralBeijing
(withintheSecondRingRoad).
TianqiaoAcrobaticTheatre
CHAOYANGTheBeijingAcrobatic
Troupeislesspopularthanthe
showatChaoyangTheater,butthe
performancesarefarbetter.The
century-oldtheaterisabitworn
down,butitsimpossibletotear
youreyesawayfromthestageonce
theshowhasstarted.95Tianqiao
MarketSt.,TianqiaoAcrobaticThe-
atre.
y
010/6303-7449.Tickets
100280.Mapp104.
BookEvents
=TheBookwormCHAOYANG
TheBookwormhasbecomethede
factocommunitycenterfordown-
townexpats,whoconvenehere
regularlyforbooktalks,musicalper-
formances,andopen-micpoetry.
Thecafealsoholdskidsbookclubs
acoupleoftimesamonth.Bldg.4,
NansanlitunLu.
y
010/6586-9507.
www.beijingbookworm.com.MC,V.
Mapp104.
Acrobats
ChaoyangTheatreCHAOYANG
Thecentrallylocatedtheateriseasy
togetto,andtheTraditionalChi-
neseAcrobaticsshowsalwaysahit
withvisitingfamilyandfriends.The
showisastandardmixofacrobats
twistingthemselvesintopretzels
andsoaringthroughplastichoops.
36DongsanhuanBeilu,Chaoyang
Theatre.
y
010/6507-2421.Tickets
180680.Mapp104.
BeijingArts&Entertainment
AtoZ
TheskilledacrobatsoftheTraditionalChineseAcrobaticsShow.
11_630068-ch07.indd1079/25/1012:26AM
108
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r
t
a
i
n
m
e
n
t
RaviShankar,andPlacidoDomingo,
theyredefinitelyworthalisten.The
CentralConservatoryofMusichosts
regularperformances(manyof
themfree)bystudentsandvisiting
teachers.43Baojiajie.
y
010/6641-
2585.en.ccom.edu.cn.Tickets50
600.Mapp104.
ChinaConservatoryofMusic
XICHENGWheretheCentralCon-
servatory(above)isgearedtoward
GardenBooksCHAOYANG
Smallerandmoreintimatethanthe
Bookwormisthisbookshop,which
hostsbooktalkseverymonth.44
GuanghuaLu.
y
010/6585-1435.
www.gardenbooks.cn.AE,MC,V.
Mapp104.
ClassicalMusic
BeijingInternationalFesti-
valChorusThischoralgroup
bringstogethermusiciansfromall
overtheworldandoftenfeatures
visitingguestsoloists.Theirannual
ChristmasperformanceofHandels
TheMessiahdrawsaloyalcrowd.
Checkwebsiteforvenuesand
upcomingevents.www.beijingifc.
org.Tickets50580.
BeijingSymphonyOrchestra
MaestroTanlihuarecentlywhipped
thisorchestraintoshape.TheBSO
attachesgreatimportancetoChi-
nassymphonicmusicandpresents
severalworksbydomesticcompos-
ers.Checkthewebsiteforvenues
andupcomingevents.www.bjso.cn.
Tickets50320.
CentralConservatoryof
MusicXICHENGIftheyregood
enoughtohostLucianoPavarotti,
ChaoyangTheatreacrobats.
ManymusicaleducatorsintheUnitedStatesbelievethatthe
futureofclassicalmusic,maybeevenitssurvival,liesinChina.China
hasanestimated30millionpianostudentsand10millionviolinstu-
dents.Roughly200,000studentsperyearapplyforthenational
musicconservatories.Andagrowingnumberofthesevirtuososare
makingtheirwaywest,luredbyscholarships,competitionswith
lucrativeprizemoney,andopportunitiesforaninternationalcareer.
PrestigiousmusicschoolssuchasNewYorksJuilliardandtheEast-
manSchoolofMusicinRochesterhaveseenagrowingnumberof
Chinese-bornapplicants,andareevensendingadministratorsand
directorsonscoutingtripstoChina.MoreandmoreWesternteach-
ersandsymphoniesaretravelingheretoteachmasterclasses.
ClassicalMusiciansWanted
11_630068-ch07.indd1089/25/1012:26AM
109
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a
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m
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t
o
Z
y
010/6893-5691.www.bda.edu.
cn.Tickets50300.Mapp104.
BeijingModernDanceCom-
panyFENGTAITheNewYork
TimescalledtheBeijingModern
DanceCompanythemostpromi-
nentofChinesemoderndance
troupes.Visitorscanwatch
rehearsals;ifyourefit,youcan
evenattendaclass.3F,Bldg.D,46
FangjiaHutong,AndingmenneiDajie
y
010/6758-0922.www.bmdc.com.
cn.Tickets100580.Mapp104.
TheLivingDanceStudioCHA-
OYANGChinasfirstindependent
dance-theatercompanyismoreper-
formanceartthandance.Ifyoure
aroundinthefall,headhereto
catchitscontemporaryperfor-
mancefestival,Crossing.105Cao-
changdi.
y
010/6533-7243.Tickets
50200.Mapp104.
TheNationalBalletofChina
XUANWUStudentsfromtheBei-
jingDanceAcademy(above)feed
intothistroupe.Inthepast,their
repertoireveeredtotheuninspired
staplesofballet(DonQuixote,
RomeoandJuliet),butrecentcol-
laborationswithinternational
classicalWesternmusic,thisconser-
vatorykeepsitsearstunedtotradi-
tionalChineseinstrumentsand
musicstyles.1AnxiangLu.
y
010/
6641-2585.en.ccom.edu.cn.Tickets
50500.Mapp104.
NationalCentreforthePer-
formingArtsDONGCHENGThe
completionofthismuch-talked
abouttheater(seep29,bullet1)
hasbeendelayedfor3years.
Acoustictestswerescheduledfor
thesummerof2007,butofficials
remaintight-lippedaboutnaming
thedateoftheopeningperfor-
mance.WestoftheGreatHallofthe
People,TiananmenSquare.
y
010/
6606-4707.www.chncpa.org.Map
p104.
Dance
TheBeijingDanceAcademy
HAIDIANWalkingpastthe
rehearsalhallsofthisprestigious
trainingacademy,yourelikelyto
seeballet,Chineseminoritydances,
andstudentsgoofingaroundonthe
barre.Calltheofficetowatcha
class,rehearsals,orfindoutifthere
isafinalclassperformancesched-
uled.19MinzuXueyuanNanlu.
TheNationalGrandTheater.
11_630068-ch07.indd1099/25/1012:26AM
110
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&
E
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t
e
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t
a
i
n
m
e
n
t
1214.www.sfa.gov.cn.Tickets25.
Mapp104.
FrenchCultureCenterCHAOY-
ANGThistheatershowsclassic
andmodernFrenchfilms.Itsinthe
FrenchCultureCenter,betweenthe
bookstoreandlibrary,andnextto
thecafe.18GongtiXilu.
y
010/
6553-2627.www.ccfpekin.org.Tick-
ets20.Mapp104.
HartCentreofArtsCHAOYANG
Itfeelsabitlikeacollegeaudito-
rium,butthiscenterinthe798
DashanziArtDistrictshowssomeof
Chinasmostrecentavant-garde
filmswithEnglishsubtitlesonSatur-
daynightsat7pm.4JiuxianqiaoLu.
y
010/6435-3570.Tickets30.Map
p104.
InstitutoCervantesCHAOY-
ANGAroundthecornerfromthe
FrenchCultureCenteris,naturally,
theSpanishCultureCenter.They
occasionallyscreenSpanishfilms
withEnglishsubtitles.1AGongti
Nanlu.
y
010/5879-9666.www.
choreographershavelivenedthem
up.Theyperformatvariousthe-
atersaroundtown.3TaipingjieSt.
y
010/8355-3737.www.ballet.org.
cn.Tickets80680.
Film(Foreign&Alternative)
CherryLaneMoviesCHAOY-
ANGWorkinginconjunctionwith
YugongYushan,oneofBeijings
bestlive-musicclubs,thismovie
clubshowsavant-gardefilmsfrom
Chinesedirectors(withEnglishsub-
titles),oftenwithappearancesby
thedirectorsthemselves.3Zhangzi-
zhongLu.
y
010/6404-2711.www.
cherrylanemovies.com.cn.Tickets
50.Mapp104.
ChinaFilmArchivesArtCin-
emaHAIDIANIfyoureinthestu-
dentdistrict,headtothiscinema.
TheyscreenChineseandforeign
classicseveryThursdayat6:30pm.
Room1213,3WenhuiyuanLu,Xia-
oxitian.
y
010/6225-4422,ext.
MembersoftheNationalBalletofChinaperformfortheirclassinBeijing.
11_630068-ch07.indd1109/25/1012:26AM
111
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&
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a
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e
n
t
t
o
Z
beensloweddownforthemovie
cameras.RedTheatre,44Xingfu
Dajie.
y
010/6710-3672.Tickets
180680.Mapp104.
Opera
MeiLanfangPekingOpera
TroupeFENGTAIMeiLanfang
wasChinasmostcelebratedmod-
ernoperastar,andhislifestorypro-
videdthebasisforthefilmFarewell
MyConcubine.Thetroupestraining
isbasedonMeisdistinctiveoper-
aticstyle.30HaihuXiLi.
y
010/
6722-7775.Tickets180380.Map
p104.
PeonyPavilionCHAOYANG
Kunquopera,amorelyricaloffshoot
oftraditionalPekingopera,is
offeredinthisformerimperialgra-
naryhall,toravereviews.Theper-
formancescomewithafreedinner
buffet.22Dongsishitiao,Imperial
GranaryTheatre,behindNanxincang
Tower.
y
010/6409-6477.Tickets
3801,980.Metro:Dongsishitiao
Mapp104.
pekin.cervantes.es.Ticketsfree.Map
p104.
ItalianEmbassyCulturalOffice
CHAOYANGThisistheplaceto
catchclassicandcontemporaryItal-
ianmovieswithEnglishsubtitles.2
SanlitunDongerjie.
y
010/6532-
2187.www.iicpechino.esteri.it.Tick-
etsfree.Mapp104.
MexicanEmbassyCultural
OfficeCHAOYANGTheMexican
CulturalOfficescreensMexican
movieswithEnglishsubtitles.5San-
litunDongwujie.
y
010/6532-2574.
Ticketsfree.Mapp104.
Film(Mainstream)
OrientalPlazaCinemaDONG-
CHENGLocatedinthebustlingOri-
entalPlazamall(p66),thislarge
cinemaplaysChineseandinterna-
tionalblockbusters.B1-Oriental
Plaza,1DongChanganJie.
y
010/
8518-6778.Tickets2570.Metro:
Wangfujing.Mapp104.
SanlitunVillageCinema
CHAOYANGWithmanychoicesfor
dinner,drinks,anddessertnearthe
cinema,youcanmakeitafulleve-
ningattheVillage,oneofBeijings
newestmalls(p66).G1,Sanlitun
Village.
y
010/6417-6118.www.
imegabox.com.Tickets3070.
Mapp104.
WandaCinemaCHAOYANG
Hugescreensandanarcadenext
doorarethemaindrawsatthisthe-
ater,whichplaysthestandardhits.
3/F,Bldg.B,WandaPlaza,93Jian-
guoLu.
y
010/5960-3399.Tickets
35120.Mapp104.
KungFuShow
TheRedTheatreCHONGWEN
KungFudidntmakethecutforthe
Beijing2008Olympics,soyoull
havetogetyourfixhere,atThe
LegendofKungFu.Theshowfea-
turesmartialartsactionthathasnt
APekingOperaperformance.
11_630068-ch07.indd1119/25/1012:26AM
112
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&
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t
a
i
n
m
e
n
t
youngtalenthasonlybeenaround
since2001.Theystageclassicsand
contemporaryplays.45Maoer
Hutong,DianMen.
y
010/6403-
1009.www.ntcc.com.cn.Tickets
50500.Mapp104.
PenghaoTheaterDONG-
CHENGThiscavernoustheater,
bar,andrestauranthostsrenditions
ofWesternandChineseclassics.
LocatedneartheCentralAcademy
ofDrama(seeabove),thistheater
hasbeenamagnetforartistswho
liveandworkaroundthearea.35
DongmianhuaHutong,Jiadaokou
NanDajie.
y
010/6400-6472.www.
penghaoren.com/cn.Tickets50
160.Mapp104.
TNT(TheNineTheatres)CHA-
OYANGTNTdoesnthavearesi-
denttheatergroup,butthisisa
greatvenuewhereyoucancatch
regularperformancesinanyoneof
thethreemaintheaters.Theirgoal
istoeventuallyhaveninetheaters,
hencetheirname.17Jintaili,Chaoy-
angmenwai.
y
010/8599-6011.
www.ninetheater.com.Tickets100
500.Mapp104.
Theater
BeijingPeoplesArtTheatre
DONGCHENGThisisactuallyacom-
panythathasthreetheatersatits
disposal.ThemainoneisCapital
Theatre,whichstagesthecompanys
mainstay,traditionalChinesedra-
mas.22WangfujingSt.
y
010/
6512-1598.www.bjry.com.Tickets
80880.Metro:Dongsi.Mapp104.
BeijingPlayhouseCHAOYANG
Thiscommunitytheatergroupper-
formswell-knownEnglish-language
playsincludingTheSoundofMusic
andAChristmasCarol.38Liang-
maqiaoLu.
y
010/6538-4716.
www.beijingplayhouse.com.Tickets
260400.Mapp104.
TheCentralAcademyof
DramaDONGCHENGFamous
alumnioftheCentralAcademyof
DramaincludeZhangZiyiandGong
Li.TrytospotChinasnextstarat
oneoftheirmanyplaysstagedatthe
on-campustheater.39DongMian-
huaHutong.
y
010/6401-7894.
www.chntheatre.edu.cn.Tickets50
500.Mapp104.
NationalTheatreCompanyof
ChinaDONGCHENGThishubof
PekingOperaperformers.
11_630068-ch07.indd1129/25/1012:26AM
8
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12_630068-ch08.indd1179/25/1012:27AM
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12_630068-ch08.indd1189/25/1012:27AM
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12_630068-ch08.indd1199/25/1012:27AM
120
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BeijingDowntownBackpackers
Accommodation4
Courtyard72
DuGe3
GuXiang201
HansRoyalGardenHotel5
LuSongYuan6
BeijingHotelsAtoZ
AmanBeijingHAIDIAN
Woodfloors,highceilings,and
Ming-stylefurnituredecoratethe
luxuriousroomsinthisbeautiful
resort,locatedrightinthegatesof
theSummerPalace.Roomscome
withprivateaccesstothepalace,
andamenitiesincludeaworld-class
spa,amovietheater,andaPilates
studio.Itsatrekfromthecenterof
town,butworthwhileforacoupleof
nightsifyouwanttogetawayfrom
thehubbubofdowntownandsee
northwestBeijingssights.15Gong-
menqianLu.
y
010/5987-9999.51
units.Doubles3,7004,500.AE,
DISC,MC,V.Mapp118.
=TheAscottCHAOYANGand
DONGCHENGWithtwolocationsin
centralBeijing,thisservicedapart-
menthotelisagoodchoicefor
extendedtripsorifyouvegotkids
intown.Roomscomewithfully
equippedkitchensanduptothree
bedrooms.Theresnotawholelotof
characterinthedecorbuttheameni-
tiesandservicemakeupforit.Loca-
tioninChaoyang(intheCentral
BusinessDistrict):108JianguoLuYi.
y
010/6567-8100or800/820-1028.
www.the-ascott.com.310units.Dou-
bles1,688,plus15%servicecharge;
breakfastforoneincludedinrate.AE,
DISC,MC,V.Metro:Guomao.Map
p115.LocationinDongcheng(closer
totheairport):12DongzhimenDaJie.
y
010/8405-3888or800/820-1028.
www.the-ascott.com.192units.Dou-
bles1,088,plus15%servicecharge.
12_630068-ch08.indd1209/25/1012:27AM
121
B
e
i
j
i
n
g
H
o
t
e
l
s
t
o
Z
g
a
ChinaWorldHotelOnce
oneofthetophotelsinBeijing,this
hotelnowneedsarenovationto
competewithBeijingsnewerfive-
starhotels.Yetitremainsquitepop-
ularwithhigh-endbusiness
travelersforitscentrallocationin
theCentralBusinessDistrict.You
shouldbeabletobargaindownthe
price;otherwise,stayelsewhere.1
JianguomenWaiDajie,Chaoyang
District.
y
010/6505-2266.www.
shangri-la.com.716units.Doubles
1,7001,900.AE,DISC,MC,V.
AE,DISC,MC,V.Metro:Dongzhimen.
Mapp118.
BambooGardenHotel
DONGCHENGThiscourtyard
guesthouseistheplacetoliveout
yourdowageroremperorofChina
fantasies.Thetraditionalcompound
wasoncethegardenofahigh-rank-
ingQingdynastyeunuch.Redlac-
querwalkwaysleadthewayto
roomsdeckedoutinMingdynasty
style.Anextrasittingareaand
largerbathroommakethedeluxe
suiteswellworththeupgrade.24
Xiaoshiqiao(offJiugulouDajie).
y
010/5852-0088.www.bbgh.com.
cn.60units.Doubles760880.AE,
MC,V.Metro:Gulou.Mapp117.
BeijingDowntownBack-
packersAccommodation
DONGCHENGThisisbyfarthe
besthostelinBeijinganditsina
fabulouslocation.Theyhavebar-
gain-basementdormrooms(55)as
wellasprivatesinglesanddoubles.
Thebathroomhasthatannoying
layoutwithatoiletplacedsmackin
themiddleoftheshowerarea,butit
isverycleanandthefolksatthe
receptiondeskspeakexcellentEng-
lish.85NanLouguXiang.
y
010/
8400-2429.20units.Doubles150
190w/breakfast.Nocreditcards.
Mapp120.
TherelaxingsurroundingsatBambooGarden.
SittingareaatBeijingBackpackers.
12_630068-ch08.indd1219/25/1012:27AM
122
T
h
e
B
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s
t
L
o
d
g
i
n
g
openinthelastyear.Roomsare
basic,butagoodsize.38Wudaoy-
ingHutong.
y
010/6402-2082or
0/139-1076-9159.16units.Doubles
200.Nocreditcards.Metro:Yong-
hegong.Mapp118.
Courtyard7CHAOYANG
Locatedjustofftheverypopular
alleyNanLuoguXiang,thisboutique
hotelinatraditionalcourtyard
dwellingofferscozyroomsdeco-
ratedwithChineseantiquesand
whitecurtainedwindowsoverlook-
ingoneofseveralcentralgardens.
7QianGulouYuanHutong.
y
010/
6406-0777.19units.Doubles
1,1801,900.AE,DISC,MC,V.
DrumTowerYouthHostel
DONGCHENGThisisagreatplace
tocrashifyouareonabudget.The
roomsandbathroomsaresmall,but
thepricesarerockbottom.51Jiu
=Communeatthe
GreatWallBADALINGThis
hotelsstunningarchitectureand
locationneartheGreatWallmakeit
aperfectplacetoretreatfromthe
city.TheCommunes12originalvil-
las,designedbyinternationalarchi-
tects,areoftenrentedforlavish
parties.Copiesofthehomeshave
beensubdividedintomoreaffordable
hotelrooms.Alargekidscluboffers
freebabysittingandanoutdoor
wadingpool.Seep134,bullet2.
ExitatShuiguan,BadalingHwy.
y
010/8118-1888.www.commune.
com.cn.201units.Doubles2,700
w/breakfast.AE,MC,V.Mapp118.
ConfuciusInternationalYouth
HostelCHAOYANGThishostelis
rightinthethickofthingsonup-
and-comingWudaoyingHutong,a
livelyalleythathasseenaslewof
cafes,restaurants,andboutiques
Beijingssprawlingsizeandlargenumberofhotelscanmake
itdifficulttodecidewheretostay.Ifyoureplanningtovisitpopular
attractionsandwanttogetafeelforOldBeijing,trytostayinone
ofthehutongneighborhoodswithintheDongchengdistrict.Good
choicesincludeHanRoyalGardenHotel,Guxiang20,BambooGar-
den,andCourtyard7.Ifyouwanttobeinthemainhuboftourist
activitybutpreferthecomfortsofaluxuryhotel,trythePeninsula,
theGrandHyatt,ortheRegent.TheCentralBusinessDistrictisof
coursegreatforpeoplewhoareheretodobusinesswithFortune
500companies,anditsreasonablyclosetomostofBeijings
attractions.Thenorthwestpartoftown,Haidian,istheuniversity
districtandBeijingsSiliconValley.ItisalsohometotheSummer
PalaceandnearFragrantHills.Ifyoustayhere,however,youllbe
anhourstaxirideawayfrommainattractionssuchasTiananmen
SquareandtheForbiddenCity.ThenewestdistrictisFinancial
Street,whereanoutpostofTheRitz-CarltonandTheWestinare
located(eachbrandalsohaspropertiesontheeastsideoftown,in
andaroundtheCentralBusinessDistrict).FairlyclosetoTiananmen
SquareandtheForbiddenCity,thesehotelsmainlydrawaninvest-
mentbankingclientele.
HowtoChooseaHotel
12_630068-ch08.indd1229/25/1012:27AM
123
B
e
i
j
i
n
g
H
o
t
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l
s
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Z
oftherooms.Thehotelalsofea-
turesseparateroomsdesigned
forkids.26QianyuanensiHutong.
y
010/6406-0686.10units.Doubles
1,2003,000.AE,DISC,MC,V.
TheEmperorCHAOYANGDown
ashadylanerightnexttotheFor-
biddenCity,thisfour-storyboutique
hoteloffersuniqueroomsinafabu-
louslocation.Bedsandsofasare
builtintoeachroomswhitewalls
streakedwithbrighttexturedfabric
inasinglecolorofturquoiseblue,
limegreen,orbrightorange,giving
theroomsafuturistic,stylishfeel.
33QihelouJie.
y
800-3746-8357or
010/6526-5566.55units.Doubles
1,0001,400.AE,DISC,MC,V.
Metro:DengshikouorTiananmen
Dong.Mapp118.
FairmontBeijingCHAOYANG
OneofBeijingsnewestluxury
hotels,theFairmontslocationinthe
CentralBusinessDistrictmakesita
goodchoiceforbusinesspeopleor
finickyleisuretravelerslookingfor
plushroomsandsuitesloadedwith
amenities.Thehotelsspaisoneof
themostluxuriousintown.8Yon-
ganDongLi,JianguomenWaiDajie.
y
010/8511-777or866/551-5659.
222units.Doubles2,70030,000.
AE,MC,V.Metro:Yonganli.Map
p115.
GulouDajie,XichengDistrict.
y
010/
6403-7702.www.guyunhostel.com.
50units.DormBeds4555.Dou-
bles170.AE,MC,V.Metro:Gulou.
Mapp117.
=DuGeCHAOYANGThis
posh,cozy10-roomboutiquehotel
sittingrightoffofthepopularalley
ofNanLuoguXiangisasignofBei-
jingsrapidlygentrifyingtimes.Lac-
queredfurnitureinbrightcolorshas
beencustommadeandfitted,while
fancytouchesincludingcrystal
chandeliersandantiquecarpets
roundoutthepolished,flashyfeel
AhideawaybedattheCommunesSuit-
caseHouse.
FairmontBeijing.
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gnortheastcornerofTiananmen
Square,istheclosestyoucanstay
tothesquare.Foreignjournalists
campedouthereduringthe1989
massacre;todayitsaluxuryhotel
withnicelyappointedrooms.35
EastChanganJie.
y
010/6513-
7788.www.grandhotelbeijing.com.
AE,MC,V.Metro:Wangfujing.Map
p116.
GrandHyattDONGCHENG
Thesmaller-than-averageroomsare
efficientlydesigned,butthereal
drawhereistheamenities,including
thepool,whichboastsasurrealtrop-
icalsetting.Thehotelalsoserves
someofthebestfoodintowninits
restaurant,MadeinChina(p81).
1DongChanganJie.
y
010/8518-
1234.www.beijing.grand.hyatt.com.
AE,DISC,MC,V.Metro:Wangfujing.
Mapp116.
GuXiang20DONGCHENG
Thisintimatehotellocatedonabar-
linedalleyinthehutongs(nearmy
home)boastsmodernroomsdeco-
ratedwithChineseantiquesand
flatscreenTVs.20NanLuoguXiang.
=FriendshipHotelHAID-
IANIfyouwantafeelofwhatBei-
jingwaslikeinthe1960s,this
enormoushotelcomplexwith
sprawlinggroundsandanoutdoor
swimmingpoolistheplacetogo.
ThehoteloncehousedSovietfor-
eignexpertsandfeaturesSoviet-
Chinesearchitecture,butrecent
updatestotheroomshavegiven
themamodern,hipfeel.Thehotel
isconvenientforthosewhowantto
beneartheSummerPalaceandBei-
jingsversionofSiliconValley.1
ZhongguancunNanDajie.
y
010/
6849-8888.www.bjfriendshiphotel.
com.2,300units.Doubles500
700.AE,MC,V.Metro:Remin
Daxue.Mapp118.
FriendshipYouthHostelCHA-
OYANGFourbarssurroundoneside
ofthishostelandtheothersidefaces
apub.Lodgingsherearebare-bones
basicroomsaresmallandbath-
roomsaresharedwithfellowfloor
mates.43BeisanlitunNan.
y
010/
6417-2632.www.poachers.com.cn.
Doubles200.MC,V.Mapp118.
GrandHotel,BeijingDON-
CHENGThishotel,justpastthe
TheswimmingpoolattheGrandHyatt.
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whenrenovationsarecomplete.
7ZhangZiZhonglu.
y
010/6401-
7744.140units.Doubles400960.
AE,MC,V.Metro:Zhangzizhonglu.
Mapp118.
HotelGCHAOYANGPartof
thegrowingboutiquehoteltrendin
Beijing,HotelGoffersstylishrooms
doneupina1960sHollywood
glamourthemeinacentrallocation
thatsrightnearmuchofBeijings
pulsatingnightlife.Theresawhimsi-
caltouch,withrubberduckiesnear
thetubandtoymotorcyclesdeco-
ratingtherooms,whichalsocome
withallthemoderntechnology
youllneed,includinganiPoddock
andflatscreentelevision.A7Gongti
XiLu.
y
010/6552-3600.110units.
Doubles1,0881,288.AE,DISC,
MC,V.Metro:Chaoyangmen.Map
p118.
KuntaiRoyalHotelBeijing
CHAOYANGThisChinese-runhotel
featuresplushroomswithwood
wallsandstaffmemberswhospeak
decentEnglish.Thelocationiscon-
venientlysituatedmidpoint
betweentheCentralBusinessDis-
trictandmanyofBeijingsattrac-
tions.12ChaoyangmenWaiDajieYi.
y
010/5828-5588.www.kuntai
royalhotel.com.358units.Doubles
1,8002,900.AE,DISC,MC,V.Map
p118.
y
010/6400-5566.www.guxiang20.
com.28units.Doubles5001,280.
AE,DISC,MC,V.Metro:Beixinqiao.
Mapp120.
HansRoyalGardenHotel
CHAOYANGAcollaboration
betweenawealthyChineseAmeri-
canandthegrandsonofaQing
dynastychef,thispainstakingly
restoredseriesoffivecourtyards
hasbeenturnedintoaluxurious
hotelwithanemphasisonpreserv-
ingChinashistoryandculture.Most
roomsaredecoratedcomfortably
withexpensiveyetunderstateddark
woodfurniturewithaWesternfeel,
whilethemorelavishroomshave
beenfilledwithantiqueChinese
rosewoodfurniture.7BeiBingmasi
Hutong.
y
010/8402-5588.33units.
Doubles1,1801,900.AE,DISC,
MC,V.Metro:Zhangzizhonglu.Map
p120.
HejingFuBinguanDONGCHENG
Thishotelwasbuiltonthesiteof
QingdynastyHefingPrincesssfor-
mermansion.Todayitsmellsabit
staleandthebathroomshaveseen
betterdays.Thetraditionalcourt-
yards(private,single-leveltradi-
tionalhouseswithroomssetaround
acentralcourtyardspace)infront
ofthehotelwereunderrenovation
atpresstime.Thecourtyardslook
morecharmingthanthehotelitself,
andwillbeworthcheckingout
HansRoyalGarden.
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gOppositeHouseCHAOY-
ANGLocatedontheSanlitunbar
street,thisclassyboutiquehotel
representshowfarthisonce-
scummyarea(andBeijingasa
whole)hascome.Youwontexpect
muchfromtheboringglassexterior,
butonceinside,everythingisstyl-
ish,fromtheopenatriumlobby
featuringChinesemodernartinstal-
lationstothestainless-steel-bot-
tomedpoolinthebasement.Rooms
aredecoratedinminimalistwhite
andblondwoodtones.Theonly
drawbackistheheftypricetag.11
SanlitunBeiLu.
y
010/6417-6688.
99units.Doubles5,0006,500.AE,
DISC,MC,V.Metro:Gongtibeilu.
Mapp118.
ParkHyattCHAOYANGRising
abovetheareaknownastheCBD
theCentralBusinessDistrictthis
new66-storyhotelimpresseswith
expansiveviewsofthecity,top-
notchgymandspafacilities,and
unconventionalroomlayoutsdeco-
ratedinbeigetones.Mostrooms
openintoanairybathroom,outfit-
tedwithmarbletubsnexttoan
openshower,afreestandinghis-
and-herssinkandmirror,anda
slidingdoorthatseparatesthebath-
roomfromthesleepingquarters
LuSongYuanDONGCHENG
Thismidrangehotel,ownedbyan
enterprisingHongKongbusiness-
manwhoownsseveralboutique
hotelsaroundChina,hasaprime
locationinthehutongsandplenty
ofcharacter.Itsdimlylitroomsare
decoratedwithChineseantiques
andthebuildingwasoncethehome
ofaQingdynastygeneral.22Ban-
changHutong,KuanJie.
y
010/
6404-0436.www.the-silk-road.com/
hotel/lusongyuanhotel.55units.
Doubles7001,000.AE,MC,V.
Mapp120.
AbedroomatLuSongYuan.
ParkHyattBeijing.
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carpetsandfurnitureupholstery.
Thesmallbalconieslookoutonto
ChanganJie,oneofBeijingsmain
thoroughfares.33DongChanganJie.
y
010/6526-3388or800/768-9009.
www.beijing.raffles.com.171units.
Doubles3,8004,700.AE,DISC,MC,
V.Metro:Wangfujing.Mapp116.
RedCapitalRanchHUAIROU
An80-minutedrivefromBeijing,this
countryguesthouse,ownedbythe
RedCapitalResidence,istheperfect
weekendretreat.Thehigh-ceilinged
roomswithstonewallsfeature
Qingdynastystylefurniture.Dont
expecttoomuchintermsofservice;
theplaceisstaffedwithyoung
countrysidewomen.Theranchis
closedinthewintermonths.28Xia-
guandiCun,YanxiZhen,HuairouDis-
trict.
y
010/8401-8886.www.red
capitalclub.com.cn.10units.Dou-
bles1,540w/breakfast.AE,MC,V.
Mapp118.
RegentBeijingDONGCHENG
Everythingaboutthishotelisele-
gantandunderstated,fromthe
mutedbeigeandgraytonesofthe
roomstotheswimmingpoollined
beyond.2JianguomenwaiDajie.
y
010/8567-1234.www.beijing.
park.hyatt.com.237units.Doubles
2,0002,500.AE,MC,V.Metro:
Guomao.Mapp115.
ThePeninsulaDONGCHENG
AtBeijingsmostluxurioushotel,
thespaciousroomscomewith
flatscreentelevisions,DVDplayers,
andtastefulcontemporaryChinese
art.Theserviceistop-notch,and
nearlyeverystaffmemberspeaks
fluentEnglish.ThePenevengets
thedetailsright,asintheeasy-to-
uselightingsystemandevening
turndownservice.Makesureto
bookaroomwithatelevisioninthe
bathroomsoyoucanbathewhile
watchingamoviefromthehotels
library.ThishotelalsoholdsBei-
jingsfanciestshoppingarcade,with
threefloorsofdesignernamessuch
asChanelandHarryWinston.8
JinyuHutong,Wangfujing.
y
010/
8516-2888,or800/852-3888forcalls
fromBeijing.http://beijing.peninsula.
com.525units.Doubles2,800.AE,
DISC,MC,V.Mapp116.
QomolangmaHotelDONG-
CHENGAttherearoftheQomol-
angmaisavastcourtyardcontaining
fourotherseparateandprivate
courtyards.Makesuretorequesta
roomhere,ratherthaninthestreet-
facingbuilding,whichisjustaregu-
larhotel.Courtyardroomsare
furnishedwithtraditionalChinese
furniture,andthedeluxesuitescome
withbigbathtubs.149GulouXiDajie.
y
010/6401-8822.www.qomolangma
hotel.com.81units.Doubles780
2,880.AE,MC,V.Metro:Gulou.Map
p117.
RafflesBeijingDONGCHENGIf
yourefamiliarwiththeRafflesinSin-
gapore,thisBeijingoutpost,which
openedin2006,maybeadisap-
pointment.Whilethehistoricbuild-
inghasbeenrestoredcarefully,the
roomsaretacky,withmismatched
ThelobbyatRafflesBeijing.
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baoJie,DongchengDistrict.
y
010/8522-1888.www.regent
hotels.com.500units.Doubles
1,8002,750.AE,DISC,MC,V.
Metro:Dengshikou.Mapp116.
withslate-graystonefloorsand
walls.Theroomsarespaciousand
outfittedwithflatscreentelevisions
andDVDplayers.Thepriceforthe
executivesuitesincludesacompli-
mentary30-minutemassage.99Jin-
WheneverwerefeelingoverwhelmedbyBeijingspollution,
traffic,andcrowds,weheadforthemountains.Justalittleoveran
houroutsideBeijingaretwocountrysideresortsthatmakeexcel-
lentovernighttrips.TheRedCapitalRanch(p127),an80-minute
drivefromdowntown,isjustunderanunrestoredsectionofthe
GreatWall.ItstenroomsareinprivateChinese-stylebungalows
decoratedwithTibetanandChineseantiques.Thecharmofthe
roomsliesinitsdetailssuchasthedecorativeChinesechess-
boardsonthewallsofthebathroombutthebugscrawling
aroundareapowerfulreminderthatyouareindeedinthecountry.
Whilemostguestscomeheretorelaxintheoutdoorpavilions,at
thespa,orbythecozyfireplace,theresortalsooffersachallenging
hikealongtheGreatWall.ThissectionoftheWallhasmostlybeen
reducedtorubble,anditmakesforarigorousclimbthatmeanders
alongaridgeofrocksandendsinasheercliffdroponwhichanold
watchtowerteeters.Thehikeis4hourslong,round-trip.Another
optionistheCommune(p122and134),whichoffersmoreluxuri-
ousaccommodationsandaneasierclimbonanunrestoredbut
moreintactsectionoftheWall.
CountrysideGetaways
YoucanenjoyaweekendawayfromthecityattheRedCapitalRanch.
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drawbackisitslocation,whichisnt
particularlycentral,thoughitscon-
venientenoughtotheForbidden
CityandTiananmenSquare.1
JinchengfangDongJie,XichengDis-
trict.
y
010/6601-6666.www.ritz-
carlton.com.253units.Doubles
4,5005,000.AE,DISC,MC,V.
Metro:Fuchengmen.Mapp118.
7DaysInnDONGCHENGItmay
looklikeaparkinglotmotel,butthis
newlyopenedinnisimmaculateand
hasanextremelyfriendlystaff.Bath-
roomshaveseparateshowerareas
andthesouth-facingtopfloor
roomshavedecentviewsoftheBell
Tower.47JiugulouDajie.
y
010/
6405-8188.www.7daysinn.com.159
units.Doubles240.Nocreditcards.
Metro:Gulou.Mapp117.
Shangri-LaHAIDIANStandard
roomsintheoldertowerarecom-
fortable,butslightlywornforan
extra500,itsworthwhileto
upgradetotheValleyWing,aluxuri-
oustowerofnewexecutiverooms
decoratedinelegantmutedbeige
tones,withaccesstoanindulgent
loungewithfreebreakfast,after-
nooncocktails,andcanaps.Its
locationputsyoua30-minutedrive
frommanyofBeijingstouristattrac-
tions,butthehotelisclosetothe
Ritz-CarltonBeijingCHAOY-
ANGNottobeconfusedwiththe
othernewRitz-Carltonontheother
sideoftown,thisnewfive-starhotel
sitsjusteastofBeijingsCBD(Central
BusinessDistrict)andcomeswith
impressiveserviceandadistinctly
old-world,Europeanfeel.While
roomshaveaclassiclookwithflow-
erythrowpillowsanddarkwoodfur-
niture,theyrealsooutfittedwith
moderntechnologyincludingiPod
docks,flatscreentelevisions,and
Wi-Fi.38JianguoLu.
y
010/5908-
8888.305units.Doubles4,800
5,800.AE,DISC,MC,V.Metro:
Dawanglu.Mapp115.
Ritz-CarltonFinancial
StreetXICHENGThoughthisRitz
caterstoabusinessclientele,itis
rifewithhomeytouches,asifithad
beendecoratedbyaChineseMar-
thaStewart.Thebedsarethecomfi-
estintown,andthemarble
bathroomscomewithtwosinksand
atelevisionanchoredinfrontofthe
bathtub.Thebasementhealthclub
hasaluxuriousswimmingpoolwith
agianttelevisionscreenonone
wall,plusloungechairsthatdeliver
waterjetmassages.Cepe,onthe
groundlevel,servesthecitysbest
upscaleItalianfare.Thishotelsonly
TheswimmingpoolattheSt.Regis.
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gcentrallocationwithquickaccessto
theairport.ItwasHillaryClintons
choicewhenshemadeherfirstvisit
toChinaassecretaryofstate(the
U.S.embassyislocatedjustafew
blocksaway).1XinyuanNanLu.
y
010/5922-8888or800/810-3688.
www.westin.com/chaoyang.550
units.Doubles2,5004,000.AE,
DISC,MC,V.Metro:Liangmaqiao.
Mapp118.
=TheWestinFinancial
StreetXICHENGLocatedonthe
westsideoftown,thisWestincaters
toabusinessclienteleandthose
travelingwithchildren.Therooms
arecomfortable,ifalittlecharacter-
less,butyoullgetalltheservices
andamenitiesthatcomewiththe
brandname.9JinrongJieYi.
y
010/
6606-8866or800/810-3688.www.
westin.com/beijingfinancial.486
units.Doubles2,900.AE,DISC,
MC,V.Metro:Fuchengmen.Map
p118.
universitydistrict.29ZizhuyuanLu.
y
010/6841-2211.www.shangri-la.
com.528units.Doubles1,050
1,800.AE,DISC,MC,V.Mapp118.
SleepyInnDONGCHENGThis
budgetlakesideinnhassomeofthe
friendliestserviceinBeijing.Rooms
onthenorthernendofthecom-
poundlookoutoverXihaiLake.
Amenitiesarebasic,buttherooms
andbathroomsarespick-and-span.
103DeshengmenNeiDajie.
y
010/
6406-9954.www.sleepyinn.com.cn.
24units.4-persondorms80per
person.Doubles298.Nocredit
cards.Metro:Gulou.Mapp.117.
St.RegisCHAOYANGItwas
oncethebesthotelintown,butthe
St.Regisnolongerstandsoutasthe
front-runnerwithsomanynewfive-
starhotelsvyingforattention.Still,
roomsarehomeyandcomfortable,
withChinesetouches,modernBose
speakers,bigflatscreentelevisions,
andDVDplayers.Bedsareplush
andfeaturehigh-thread-count
sheets,andbathroomshavebeen
madefancywithwhitemarble.21
JianguomenWaiDajie.
y
010/6460-
6688or800/810-3288.www.stregis.
com/beijing.273units.Doubles
4,1005,000.AE,DISC,MC,V.
SwisstelCHAOYANGAn
olderfive-starhotel,theSwisstelis
oftenoverlooked.Butitsconvenient
location(midwaybetweentheair-
portandBeijingsCentralBusiness
District),no-nonsenserooms,and
professionalservicemakeitagood
value.2ChaoyangmenBeiDajie.
y
010/6553-2288.www.beijing.
swissotel.com.430units.Doubles
1,1001,700w/breakfast.AE,MC,
V.Metro:DongsiShitiao.Mapp118.
TheWestinBeijingChaoy-
angXICHENGOneofBeijings
newestfive-starhotels,thissecond
Westintoopeninthecapitaloffers
stylish,modernroomsinafairly
AcozybedatSwissRoad.
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TheBestDayTrips
&Excursions
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TheGreatWall&theCommune
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TravelTips
The1-hourjourneytotheCommune
andtheotherpointsmentionedon
thistourcanbemadebytaxiorbus
(touristbusno.1or5fromQianmen
ortouristbusno.2fromBeijingRail-
wayStationwilltakeyoutoJuyong-
guan),butourrecommendationis
thatyourentacarfortheday(p155).
IfyouovernightattheCommune
(highlyrecommended,p134),the
hotelcanarrangereturntransportto
thecityordropyouoffattheBadal-
ingBusStationifyoudprefertoavoid
thecostlytransferfee.
e
W
hilethesectionsoftheGreatWallthatwerecommend
inthistourarenotfarfromBadaling(p137)themostcom-
mercialandmostvisitedpartofthewalltheycouldntbemore
different.Thisday-longtourwillgiveyouaninsiderspeekattwo
peacefulpartsoftheWall,plustakeyoutooneofChinasmost
avant-gardearchitecturalprojectswhereyoucanenjoypost-climb
pamperingataspa.
1JuyongguanGreatWall.
TheJuyongguansectionoftheGreat
Wall,arecentlyrestoredareaan
hourawayfromdowntownBeijing,is
oneofthesectionsclosesttothecity
andthemosthistoricallysignificant.
Guardingoneoftwocrucialpasses
toBeijingandtheNorthChinaPlain,
itwasthesiteofpitchedbattles
involvingJurchen,Mongol,andJapa-
neseinvaders.Theremayhavebeen
fortificationshereasearlyasthe6th
centurybeforeBeijingexisted.
(Ironically,thenameJuyongguan
meansDwellinginHarmonyPass.)
Inanycase,itaffordsbreathtaking
viewsourprofessionalphotogra-
pherfriendsagreethatitstheir
favoritesectionoftheWall.YetJuy-
ongguanreceivesfewertouriststhan
otherareas,makingforapeaceful
climb.ItsworthstoppingatJuyong-
guantoviewtheancientandremark-
ableYunTai(CloudPlatform),which
oncestoodastridetheoldroadrun-
ningnorthwestintoMongolterrito-
ries.Datingfrom1342,itwasthe
baseforthreeTibetan-stylestupas,
TheJuyongguanPasssectionoftheGreatWall.
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fromAsia,whoweregiventractsof
landneartheGreatWalltobuild
theirdreamhomes.Thehomesare
sometimesoccupiedbythosewho
canaffordthehighdailyrentalfees,
butifthehomesareempty,they
canbetoured.In2006,theCom-
munebuiltcopiesoftheoriginal
homesonthesameplotoflandand
subdividedthemintoboutiquehotel
rooms.Thisistheperfectretreat
fromthecityifyourecravingsome
countryair.Onecatchisthatthe
whichweretoppledbyanearthquake
andreplacedduringtheMingdynasty
byaBuddhisttemple.
@
2hr.Juyong-
guanGreatWall.
y
010/6977-1665.
Admission45.Daily8am5pm.Bus
919fromDeshengmentoNankou
DongJie,thentransfertobus68to
Juyongguan.
2Communeatthe
GreatWall.OneofChinasmost
avant-gardearchitecturalprojects,
theCommuneassemblesthework
of12establishedarchitects,mostly
DevelopersZhangXinandPanShiyigavethecountrysidenear
Beijingaface-liftwhentheycommissionedadozenarchitectsto
buildfancifulhomesherein2001.Apavedstreetmeandersupa
dry,dustyhill,passinghomesofvariedcolorsandunusualshapes.
NotfarfromthemaingateistheSuitcaseHouse,whichconsists
ofalargeroomwithhingedwoodenfloorsthatwhenliftedreveal
hiddenroomsincludingabedroom,kitchen,andbathroom.Farther
uptheroadisanotheroneofourfavorites,theAirportHouse,
whichresemblesanairportterminalwithjuttingcorridorsthat
functionasroomsratherthanairportboardinggates.Nextupisthe
sereneBambooWallHouse,alonghouseconstructedfromthin,
delicatebamboo.Itfeaturesanoutdoordiningareasurroundedby
water.AnotherofourfavoritesistheForestHouse,whichhas
largeverticalwindowsandmeandering,airyhallwaysthatgivethe
housethedepthofalabyrinth,withoutfeelingclaustrophobic.
TheHousesoftheCommune
TheOutsideofSeeandBeSeen,oneoftheCommunehouses.
13_630068-ch09.indd1349/25/1012:28AM
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5
BadalingStarbucks.The
toutsandcrowdsattheBadaling
sectionoftheGreatWallcanbea
bitoverwhelming,butwearewilling
tobravethemforacupofcoffee.
ThisStarbucksistheonlycoffee
shopwithina48km(30-mile)radius.
OppositetheentranceattheGreat
Wall,BadalingChangchengTequ,
Yanqing.
y
010/6912-1894.$.
4AnantaraSpa.Ifyouve
walkedthetwosectionsofthe
GreatWallrecommendedinthis
tour,youmaybereadyforabody
treatmentorafootmassageatthis
elegantspa.Thespahasanoutdoor
deckwithaperfectviewofthewall
oncleardays.
@
1hr.ExitatShui-
guan,BadalingHwy.,locatedin
theCommuneattheGreatWall.
y
010/8118-1888,ext.5100(by
appointment).
hotelonlyallowsgueststoscalethe
propertyssectionoftheGreat
Wallyoucangetaroundthisby
havingadrinkordininghereand
thengoingforastroll.
@
1hr.Exit
atShuiguan,BadalingHwy.
y
010/
8118-1888,ext.4.Freeforguests.
Dailytour:9am5pm(by
appointment).
3
UnrestoredGreatWall.
Besidesthecoolarchitecture,
anothergoodreasontocometothe
Communeissoyoucanexplore
theirunrestored,privatesectionof
theWall.Followthepathnexttothe
redCantileverHouse(ontheright,if
yourefacingthehouse),keepingon
thetrail.Thehikeisnttoorigorous
fornonhikers,butitcanbesteepat
points,sobesuretoweargood
shoes.
@
1hr.
AnunrestoredsectionoftheGreatWall
neartheCommune.
RelaxafteryourlongwalkattheCom-
munesspa.
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MoreGreatWallExcursions
1
1
2
3
4
5
6
23456
B
a
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a
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e
a
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a
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e
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c
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m
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e
1
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0
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13_630068-ch09.indd1369/25/1012:28AM
137
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s
T
heGreatWallisnotacontiguous,monolithicstructure.
Overtime,partsoftheWallhavecrumbledanddissolvedinto
thesand,leavingfracturedsectionsthatbeginonChinaseastcoast
andcontinuetothecountrysnorthwesterndeserts.TheWallruns
justnorthofBeijing,andwerecommendsixseparatesectionsthat
youcanvisiteasilyfromthecapital.Whiletheresnoneedtovisit
eachsection(unlessyoureahikingandnatureaficionadowithlots
oftimeonyourhands),wethinkavisittoatleastoneisahighlight
ofanytriptoBeijing.
1
BadalingGreatWall.Thisis
theDisneylandversionofthewall,
andthesectionthatmanyChinese
aspiretovisit.Atriphereisconve-
nientandquitepicturesqueifyou
dontmindthecrowds.Thissection
wasconstructedaround1368of
brick,stone,andsoil.Itwasthefirst
parttoberestored,backin1957.A
cablecarwasbuiltinthe1980s,
whichwasfollowedbyaKFCand
thenaStarbucks.Althoughitisone
ofthemostdramaticsectionsofthe
GreatWall,thesheernumberofvisi-
torscanbeoverwhelming.Buses
leaveBeijingevery5minutesand
takeanhour.
@
3hr.,plus2hr.
round-triptraveltime.Badaling
Tequ,YanqingCounty.
y
010/
6912-2222or010/6912-1358.www.
badaling.gov.cn.Admission45.
Daily7am6pm.Bus919departs
fromDeshengmen,every5min.
2HuanghuaCheng.Theresto-
rationsbeganonlyrecentlyatHuan-
ghuaCheng,whichmakesitagood
choiceifyoureinterestedinseeing
amorenaturalpartoftheWallbut
dontwantahikethatstoovigor-
ous.(Theresnocablecarhere.)The
areaisnearareservoirandisblan-
ketedwithyellowflowersinsum-
mer(thenameHuanghuameans
yellowflower).Theinclineisgradual
atfirst,butitgetssteeperasyou
ascend.
@
3hr.,plus3hr.
ThesectionoftheGreatWallnearBadalingcangetextremelycrowded.
13_630068-ch09.indd1379/25/1012:28AM
138
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s
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o
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s
excursion(p155).StartatXiZhaZi
Cun,wheretheroaddeadendsinto
aparkinglotandfollowthetrailupto
theWall.Turnleftonceyoureach
theWall,andprepareyourselffor
anintense5-hourhike.Thetallest
watchtowerinthedistanceis
Jiankou;justbeforeyoureachit,look
foraturnoffmarkedbyaflat,paved
sectionofthewall.Thiswillleadyou
backdowntotheroad.Fromthe
road,itsa20-minutewalkbackto
theparkinglot.Makesuretobring
plentyofwaterandalunch.
@
5hr.,
plus3hr.round-triptraveltime.
YanxiZhen,HuairouDistrict.No
phone.Freeadmissionofficially,
thoughnearbyvillagersmaycharge
5forparkingand1020perper-
son.Open24hr.
5Jinshanling.LikeJiankou,this
partofthewallismostlyunre-
stored,thoughtouristofficialshave
installedacablecarhere.Jinshan-
lingis10km(6
1
4miles)fromtheOld
NorthernPass,throughwhichQing
royaltypassedonthewaytotheir
summerretreatatChengde(p141).
TheWallhere,restoredinthe16th
century,featuresunusualcircular
towersandelaboratedefensive
wallsleadinguptotowers.Itispos-
sibletodoadramaticwalkfrom
round-triptraveltime.Xishuiyu,
JiuduheZhen,Huairou.
y
010/6165-
1111.www.huanghuacheng.com.
Admission34.MonFri8am5pm;
SatSun7:30am5:30pm.
3Mutianyu.Restoredin1986,
Mutianyuisslightlylesscrowded
thanBadaling.LikeBadaling,ithasa
cablecar,butMutianyualsoboasts
aGerman-builttobogganride,which
youcantakeonthewaydown.
Locatedinaheavilyforestedarea,
itsespeciallyphotogenicinrainy,
mistyweather.Publictransportation
forthe90-minutetriptoMutianyuis
sparse,soyourbestbetistorent
acarfortheday(p155).
@
3hr.,
plus3hr.round-triptraveltime.
MutianyuCun,HuairouDistrict.
y
010/6162-6505.www.mutianyu
greatwall.com.Admission45.Daily
7:30am5:30pm.
4Jiankou.Thissectionisfor
serioushikersonly,andisourfavor-
itepartoftheWall.(Wevespent
plentyoftimehere,sincewerenta
houseinthenearbycountryside.)
Fewtouristbusesmakethejourney
here,theresnocablecar,andinthe
offseasontheticketcollectorsdont
evenbothertocollecttheadmission
feesincetheareaisfairlyremote.
Youllhavetorentacarforthis
TheJinshanlingsectionoftheGreatWall.
13_630068-ch09.indd1389/25/1012:28AM
139
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a
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c
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s
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n
s
3pm.(Makesuretohaveyourhotel
contactthebuscompanytoconfirm
thereturntime.)Ifyouplanonwalk-
ingtoJinshanling,itsbesttoarrange
privatetransporttopickyouup
there.
@
35hr.,plus5hr.round-
triptraveltime.SimataiCun,Gubei-
kouZhen,MiyunCounty.
y
010/
6903-1051.www.simatai-greatwall.
net.Admission40.Open8am5pm.
heretotheSimataisection(see
Simatai,below),whichtakesabout
5hours.Youllhavetoarrangefor
privatetransportationtodropyou
offatJinshanlingandpickyouup
onceyouarriveinSimatai.
@
35
hr.,plus4hr.round-triptraveltime.
BakeshiyingZhen,LuanpingCounty,
Chengde.
y
0314/883-0222.www.
cdchangcheng.com.Admission50
(40inwinter).Open7am5pm.
6
Simatai.Thoughthefarthest
fromBeijing,Simataiisagood
optionforthosewhowantachal-
lenge.Themostharrowingportion,
steepandunrestored,isontheeast
(right)sideoftheMiyunReservoir.
TheendistheWangjingTa,the12th
watchtower;beyondthatisthe
HeavenlyBridge(Tianqiao)where
thewallnarrowstoonlyafewfeet.
(Duetoaseriesofdeaths,thissec-
tionisnowoff-limits.)Theround-trip
hiketakes3hoursatamoderate
pace.ThesectionofSimataiwestof
thereservoirleadstoJinshanling
(seeJinshanling,above).Simatai
getscrowdedontheweekends,
especiallynowthatacablecarhas
beenbuilt.Onweekends,aluxury
tourbusfor95leavesQianmenat
8:30amandreturnstoBeijingat
AnunrestoredsectionoftheGreatWall
atSimatai.
AgoatherderinSimataivillage.
13_630068-ch09.indd1399/25/1012:28AM
140
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s
Chengde
Shuxiang
Temple
Dehui
Men
Gate
Shuxiang
Temple
E
i
g
h
t
O
u
t
e
r
T
e
m
p
l
e
s
Chengde
Station
Dehui
Men
Gate
Northwest
Gate
S
h
iz
iG
o
u
L
u
W
u
l
i
e
L
u
X
iD
a
jie
D
o
n
g
D
a
jie
L
i
z
h
e
ng
M
e
n
D
ajie
Z
h
o
n
g
X
i
n
g
L
u
C
h
e
z
h
a
n
L
u
Q
i
n
g
f
e
n
g
D
o
n
g
J
i
e
P
u
n
i
n
g
S
i
L
u
C
h
i
c
h
e
n
g
G
o
n
g
L
u
H
e
D
o
n
g
L
u
S
h
a
n
Z
h
u
a
n
g
D
o
n
g
L
u
B
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i
X
i
n
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o
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g
J
i
e
CHENGDE
MOUNTAIN
RESORT
2
4
5
6
3
1
1
2
3
4
6
ChengdeMountainResort
(BishuShanzhuang)
PotalaPalace
(PutuozongchengZhiMiao)
TempleofUniversalPeace
(PuningSi)
HammerRock
(QingchuiFeng)
TempleofUniversalJoy
(PuleSi)
YingziDajieNightMarket
5
1mi 0
01km
Putuozongcheng
Temple
Xumifushou
Temple
Puning
Temple
Puyou
Temple
Anyuan
Temple
Pule
Temple
Bifeng
Gate
MainPalace
(ZengGong)
PavilionofLiteraryDelight
(WenjinGe)
Pagodaofthe
SixHarmonies
(LiuHeTa)
Tobusstation
(10km)
Tobusstation
(10km)
Jinan
Taiyuan
Beijing
Tianjin
Shenyang
Chengde
CHINABoHai
300mi 0
0300km
13_630068-ch09.indd1409/25/1012:28AM
141
C
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I
fyoucantakeonlyoneovernightsidetripfromBeijing,go
toChengde.DuringtheQingdynasty,theimperialfamilywould
packtheirbagsandmakethejourneybyhorseinaslowprocession
tothissummerretreat.Nowadays,ahighwayconnectsBeijingto
Chengde,andthehuntinggrounds,pagodas,andpavilionsareopen
toall.Makesureyoufocusontheold,preservedpartofChengde,
whichismorecharmingthanthenewcity.Wanderingthroughthe
parksandthetemplesdecoratedwithtantricartisarelaxingchange
ofpaceifyouvebeeninBeijingforafewdays.
1
ChengdeMountain
Resort(BishuShanzhuang).
Chengdewasjustanothervillage
untiltheendofthe17thcentury,
whentheQingemperorKangxi
stumbledupontheserollinghills
neartheWuliRiveranddecidedto
buildthissummerretreat.Thefirst
structureswerecommissionedin
1703.Acenturylater,theretreat
includednearly100imperialstruc-
turesenclosedbya9.5km-long
(6-mile)wall.Untilrecently,emper-
orsusedthesegiganticgrounds
dottedwithlakesandpavilionsfor
hunting,archery,andhorsebackrid-
ing.Theparkmakesforanidyllic
ramble,duringwhichyoucanduck
intoseveralofthebuildings.Notfar
fromtheDehuiMenGateisthe
MainPalace(ZengGong),themost
importantoftheremainingbuild-
ings.Thesimple,hardwoodinterior
holdsacollectionofancientmilitary
equipment,periodfurnishings,and
antiquities.Meanderalongthelakes
andthrougharockgardentoreach
thePavilionofLiteraryDelight(Wen-
jinGe),acopyofafamouslibraryin
thesoutherncoastaltownof
Ningbo.Northeastofthepavilionis
thePagodaoftheSixHarmonies
(LiuHeTa),anine-story,brickstruc-
turewithgreen-and-yellow-tiled
eavesfeaturingbellsandtoppedby
agoldenknob.
@
3hr.LizhengMen
AviewofChengdeMountainResort.
13_630068-ch09.indd1419/25/1012:28AM
142
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s
@
30min.PuningSiLu.
y
0314/
205-8535.www.puningsi.com.cn.
Admission50(40inwinter).
7:30am6pm(8:30am4:30pmin
winter).
4HammerRock(Qingchui
Feng).Manyvisitorssnickerwhen
theyseethisnaturalrockformation
thatsshapedlikeapartofthemale
anatomy.Thecablecarridetothe
rockofferspleasantviewsofthe
surroundinghillsandfieldswhere
Dajie.
y
0314/216-0419.Admission:
MayOct96;NovApr60.
7am6pm.
2
PotalaPalace(Putuozon-
gchengZhiMiao).Modeledafter
Lhasasmostfamoustemple,this
miniversiongivesvisitorswhoarent
abletogotoTibetasenseofthe
original.PotalaTemplewasbuiltin
1771andhasmorethan60halls
andterraces.Itsnolongerafunc-
tioningtemple,butrathera
museumwithinterestingitems
includingstatuesinvarioussexual
positionsanddrinkingvesselsmade
fromskullsandsilver.
@
30min.
ShiziGuoLu.
y
0314/216-3072.
Admission40(30inwinter).8am
5pm(8:30am5pminwinter).
3TempleofUniversal
Peace(PuningSi).A22m-high
(72-ft.)copperstatueofGuanyin,
thegoddessofmercy,standsatthe
centerofthistemple,gesturingwith
her42intricatelycarvedarms.
Climbthreelevelsofinteriorgaller-
iestolookthefigureintheeye.The
temple,aUNESCOWorldHeritage
Site,stillattractsworshipersand
containsseveralhallsofsmiling
Buddhas,stelescoveredwithChi-
nesecharacters,andredwalls.
PotalaPalace.
PrayerwheelsatPuningTemple.
13_630068-ch09.indd1429/25/1012:28AM
143
6
YingziDajieNightMarket.At
dusk,stallsonthiscentralstreet
beginsellingdeliciouskabobsand
othersnacks.YingziDajie.No
phone.$.
C
h
e
n
g
d
e
farmersharvestcabbages.
@
30
min.LamasiCun.
y
0314/205-7090.
Admission50.7am6pm.
5TempleofUniversalJoy
(PuleSi).Tibetanadvisorshelped
designthistemple,whichwasbuilt
toreceiveannualtributaryvisits
fromdefeatedMongoltribes.The
moststrikingelementisthecopyof
thecircularHallofPrayerforGood
HarvestsfromBeijingsTempleof
Heaven.Shadybenchesaroundthe
quietcourtyardmakeperfectpicnic
spots.
@
30min.NearHedongLu.
y
0314/205-7557.Admission30.
Daily8am5:30pm.
ToreachChengde,taketheexpresstrainK7711,whichdeparts
fromtheBeijingRailwayStation(
y
010/5101-9999)at8:07amdaily
andarrivesat12:29pm.Youcanreturnthenextdayontheexpress
trainK7712,whichleavesChengdeat1:29pmandarrivesatBeijing
RailwayStationaround5:51pm.BusesdepartregularlyfromBei-
jingsLiuliqiaoLongDistanceBusStation(
y
010/8383-1716)and
arriveattheChengdeLongDistanceBusStationin4
1
2hours.
WerecommendstayingatthePuningSiShangketangDaji-
udian(PuningSi;
y
0314/205-8544),ahotelintheTempleofUni-
versalPeacerunbymonks.Thecozyaccommodationsinthewest
wingofthetemplearedecoratedwithdarkwoodfurnitureand
handmadepaperlamps.Thecourtyardsfeaturerockgardensand
ponds,andthemainrestaurantservesvegetarianfood.Latesleep-
ersbewarethetemplebellsbeginringingat7:30am.Theprice
foradoubleis680to10,000.
Ifyoupreferastandardhotel,trytheShengHuaDajiudian(22
WulieLu;
y
0314/227-1188),Chengdesbesthotelintermsof
decorandservice,withwell-appointedroomsandanEnglish-
speakingstaff.Thepriceforadoubleis780to5,000.Bothhotels
acceptcreditcards.
ChengdeBasics
TempleofUniversalJoy.
13_630068-ch09.indd1439/25/1012:28AM
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n
s
Pingyao
Kuixing
Tower
Confucian
Temple
Chenghuang
Temple
XianyaShu
ShiLou
RiShengChang
Chinese
Commerce
Chamber
Museum
Qingxuguan
Taoist
Temple
Templeof
Guanyu
Yongding
Gate
Fengyi
Gate
Gongji
Gate
Qinhan
Gate
Tianhe
Gate
Yingxun
Gate
LeiLutai
ShuYuan
Jie
Totrain
station
Y
a
m
e
n
Jie
C
h
e
n
g
h
u
a
n
g
M
ia
o
Jie
S
h
a
x
i
a
n
g
D
a
j
i
e
Z
h
o
n
g
d
u
L
u
B
e
i
D
a
j
i
e
H
a
iziJie
X
iD
a
jie
D
o
n
g
D
ajie
N
a
n
D
a
j
i
e
S
h
u
y
u
a
n
Jie
2
1
5
6
4
3
8
7
1/4mi 0
01/4km
ShiLou
RiShengChang
BaiChuanTong
ChenghuangMiao,
CaishenMiao,&ZaojunMiao
1
2
3
4
XianyaShu
LeiLutai
DejuYuan
AncientCityWall
5
6
8
7
Jinan
Nanjing
Shanghai
Xian
Taiyuan
Beijing
Tianjin
Pingyao
CHINA
Huang
H
e
BoHai
300mi 0
0300km
13_630068-ch09.indd1449/25/1012:28AM
145
opendailyfrom8amto7pminthe
summer,to6pminthewinter.
P
i
n
g
y
a
o
TravelTip
IndividualentranceticketstoPing-
yaosmuseumsarenotavailable.
Instead,a2-daypassfor120gets
youintothetowns20mostpopular
sites,includingallthoselisted
below(exceptShiLou,whichis
free).Youcanbuythepassatany
ofthesitesormuseums.Sitesare
T
inyPingyaoisa2,700-year-oldlivingmuseum.Itboasts
someofthebest-preservedtraditionalarchitectureinChina:a
MingCitywall,beautifulgray-brickcourtyardhomes(siheyuan),
extravagantfamilymansions,TaoistandBuddhisttemples,andChi-
nasearliestcommercialbanks.Themaindragalsohassomefun
shopscarryingantiquewares.Welovethestreet-sidesilversmiths
makingtinyslipperpendants,orabacusearringswithmovable
countingbeads.
1
ShiLou.ShiLou,orMarket
Building,marksthecenterofPing-
yao.Climbtothetopofthisthree-
storybuildingtogetaviewofthe
entirecity.Itgetsabitcrowdedon
thenarrowlandingssoarriveearly
toavoidjostlingforphotoopswith
theothertourists.Freeadmission.
2RiShengChang.Thiscon-
vertedcompoundistheformer
headquartersofoneof19th-century
Chinasleadingmoneyexchanges.It
isnowamuseumthatlooksmore
likeanelegantcourtyardthana
bank.Itisworthhavingalook
aroundthemuseum,whichiscom-
prisedofthreecourtyardsand
almosttwodozenhallsandrooms.
38XiDajie.
y
0354/568-5364.
3BaiChuanTong.Thismuseum
exhibitingMingandQingfurnitureis
housedinanotherofChinasearliest
ShiLou,orMarketBuilding,inPingyao.
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threetempleslieafewblockssouth-
eastoftheMarketBuilding.They
honorthecitygod,thegodof
wealth,andthekitchengod.Onthe
northsideofthecourtyardisaspa-
cioushallarrangedlikeacourtof
law.Anelevatedaltarholdsaclay
sculptureofthecitygod,withan
attendantoneitherside.Otherrows
ofsimilarlysculptedfiguresrepresent
officialswhoattendtothegod.This
Mingdynastycomplexburneddown
twiceandwaslastrebuiltin1864.
ChenghuangMiaoJie.
y
0354/568-
2250.
5XianyaShu.Thiswasthe
administrativeofficethatmetedout
justiceduringtheMingandQing
dynasties.Ontheeastside,there
wasasummoningdrum.When
someonehadacomplaint,hebeat
thedrumtocallfortheYamenchief,
whowouldhearthecaseandmake
hisjudgment.Operasandreenact-
mentsoftrialsareperformedhere
throughouttheweek.Performances
arefreewithadmissionandtake
placeMondaythroughFridayat
9:30,11am,and3:30pm;and
onweekendsat9:30,11am,3:30,
and4:50pm.ChenghuangMiao
Jie(headwestofthetemplesuntil
theroadbecomesZhengfujie).
y
0354/568-2909.
banks.Displaysincludebedrooms,
parlors,akitchen,andaroomfor
takingsnuff(andprobablyopium).
109NanDajie.Nophone.
4ChenghuangMiao,Caishen
Miao&ZaojunMiao.These
HistoricbuildingsalongNanDajie.
GatesinfrontofCityGodTaoistTemple
inPingyaoshistoricquarter.
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LeiLutai.Theformerhomeof
pioneeringbankerLeiLutai(1770
1849)isafineexampleofawealthy
urbanresidence.Ithasfourrowsof
connectingcourtyards,eachdone
inadifferentstyle.ShuyuanJie.
y
0354/562-7660.
AtraditionalresidencehouseinPingyao.
ThecityofPingyao.
7
DejuYuan.Thisguesthouse
hasnotonlyexcellentcooking,but
alsoagracioushost.Anorderof
Shanxispecialtylaolaoyoumian
(smallringsofhuskedoatpasta
servedpressedtogetherinabam-
boosteamer)isaperfectsnackfor
twointhemiddleoftheafternoon.
43XiDajie.
y
0354/568-5266.$.
8=AncientCityWall.
This6.4km-long(4-mile)citywallis
idealforwalkingandtakinginthe
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andbricks.Atdusk,localsoften
comeupheretorehearsedance
stepsandkidshorsearoundplaying
Chinesehackysack.
breathtakingviewofPingyaos
courtyardrooftopsandtheoutlying
areas.Itisawell-preservedMing
dynastywallmadeoframmedearth
Pingyaosancientcitywall.
Takethenumber1163orK603overnighttrainfromBeijing
WeststationtoarriveinPingyaointhemorning.Ifyoucan,reserve
aseatontrain1163.ItpullsintoPingyaoat7:31am,allowingyouto
sleepslightlylongerthantrainK603,whicharrivesat5:33am.
Duringtheday,taxisarenotallowedwithintheoldcitywall,
whichiswhereyouwillwanttospendyourtime.Theonlytimeyou
needtotakeataxiistoandfromtherailwaystation.Bothofthe
hotelsrecommendedinthistourofferfreetaxitransfersforpeople
arrivingonthemorningtrain.Youllbetakenfromthestationtothe
nearestcitygate.Fromthere,thehotelstaffwillguideyoutothe
hotel.
Forhotels,werecommendDejuYuan(43XiDajie;
y
0354/
568-5266).Standardroomscomewithlargekangbeds(heated
brickbeds).Athree-bedroomsuitehastwobedroomsconnected
byalivingroomandisidealforfamilies.TheyalsohaveInternet
access.AnotherexcellentcourtyardguesthouseisTianYuanKui
(73NanDajie;
y
0354/568-0069).Theserviceandamenitiesare
similartothoseatDejuYuan,withtheaddedbonusofasauna.
PingyaoBasics
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theskyisawashinexplodingcolors
foranhourortwo.Therearealso
severaltemplefairsaroundtown
withgames,shows,andvendors
sellingtraditionaltoysandsnacks.
ThebestonesareatDitanPark(A2
AndingmenwaiDajie;
y
010/6421-
4657),andChaoyangPark(1Nong-
zhanguanNanlu;
y
010/6506-7723).
SPRING.Inadditiontothenational
holidayMay1,celebratingInterna-
tionalWorkersDay(LaborDay),
Chinahasrecentlycreatedtwo
lunarcalendarholidays:Tomb
SweepingDayandDragonBoatFes-
tival,officialholidays.TombSweep-
ingDayusuallyfallssometimein
April,whileDragonBoatFestivalis
sometimeinMayorJune.TheMidi
FestivaltakesplacearoundMay1
overaweekendandfeaturespunk,
rock,andexperimentalmusicin
HaidianPark.Seewww.midifestival.
comformoreinformation.
SUMMER.Summerisaquiettimefor
festivalsandholidays.Mostuniver-
sitiestakea2-monthbreakinJuly
andAugust.
FALL.Themostimportantholidayof
thefallisMid-AutumnMoonFesti-
val,whichmarksthebeginningof
harvesttimeacrossChina.Chinese
celebratetheholidayonthe15th
dayofthe8thlunarmonth,bygaz-
ingatthefullmoonandeating
sweet,oroccasionallysavory,pas-
triescalledmooncakes.Theholiday
usuallyfallsinSeptemberorearly
October.Asecondimportantholi-
dayisOctober1,markingthefound-
ingofthePeoplesRepublicofChina
in1949.InSeptember,youcan
catchlocalandinternationalpop
androckbandsduringtheBeijing
GovernmentTouristOffices
IntheUnitedStates:350Fifth
Ave.,Ste.6413,EmpireStateBuild-
ing,NewYork,NY10118(
y
212/
760-8218,760-8807,or760-4002;
fax212/760-8809;ny@cnta.gov.cn);
600W.Broadway,Ste.320,Glen-
dale,CA91204(
y
818/545-7505;
fax828/545-7506;la@cnta.gov.cn).
InCanada:480UniversityAve.,
Suite806,Toronto,ONTM5G1V2
(
y
416/599-6636;fax416/599-
6382;www.tourismchina-ca.com).
IntheU.K.:71WarwickRd.,London
SW59HB(
y
020/7373-0888;fax
020/7370-9989;london@cnta.gov.
cn).InAustralia:Level19,44Mar-
ketSt.,Sydney,NSW2000(
y
020/
9299-4057;fax020/9290-1958;syd-
ney@cnta.gov.cn).
TheBestTimestoGo
Fallistheidealtimetovisit.Septem-
berandOctoberhaveplentyof
warm,dry,sunnydayswithclear
skiesandperfectlycoolevenings.
ThenextbesttimeisMarchthrough
May,whenwindsblowawaythe
pollutionbutalsosometimesbring
sandstormsforadayortwo,turn-
ingtheskyyellowandleavingafilm
ofdustbehind.Wintersareusually
coldandverydry;summerishot
andhumid.
Festivals&SpecialEvents
WINTER.ChineseNewYear(Spring
Festival)operatesonthelunarcal-
endar.Solarequivalentsforthenext
fewyearsareFebruary3,2011;Jan-
uary23,2012;February10,2013;
andJanuary31,2014.Theeffectsof
thisholidayarefelt2weeksbefore
thedateand2weeksafter.The
mostspectaculareventhappenson
NewYearsEveatmidnight,when
theentirecitysetsofffireworksand
BeforeYouGo
Previouspage:BikersinBeijing.
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PopFestival(www.beijingpop
festival.com),anoutdoorfestival
heldinChaoyangPark.TheChina
Open(www.chinaopen.cn)usually
takesplaceinmid-September.The
eventdrawsnumerousinternational
tennisstars,andhasgrowninpopu-
laritynowthatChineseplayersare
holdingtheirownintheinterna-
tionalarena.TheBeijingMusic
Festivalcelebratesclassicalmusic,
luringinternationalorchestrasand
guestperformerstothenations
capitalinmid-October(www.bmf.
org.cn).
TheWeather
Siberianairmassesthatmovesouth
acrosstheMongolianplateaubring
cold,drywinterstoBeijing.Mon-
soonwindsfromthesoutheast
meansummersareextremelyhot
andhumid.Springandfallarethe
shortestseasonsinBeijingandthe
besttimestovisit,specificallyApril
andMayandSeptemberandOcto-
ber.Fordailyweatherforecasts,
checkChinaDailyorCCTV9,China
CentralTelevisionsEnglishchannel
(broadcastinmosthotels).
UsefulWebsites
www.ebeijing.gov.cn:Thisoffi-
cialBeijinggovernmentwebsite
providesinformationontravel
andnewsinBeijing.
www.chinesepod.com:Here
youcandownloadpodcastsof
BEIJINGSAVERAGETEMPERATURES&RAINFALL
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNE
Temp.(F)
263143576876
Temp.(C)
-3-16142024
DaysofRain
2.13.14.55.16.49.7
JULYAUGSEPTOCTNOVDEC
Temp.(F)
797769574130
Temp.(C)
262521145-1
DaysofRain
14.514.16.95.03.61.6
InternetAccessinChina
TheinternetismonitoredinChina
andwebsitesthatmentionTibet,
FalunGong,andtheTiananmen
Massacrearefrequentlyblocked.
Facebookandcertainnewssiteslike
BBCarealsofrequentlyinaccessible
inChina.Tocircumventthefirewall,
youmaywanttosuscribetoaVPN
beforeyouarriveinChina.One
highlyrecommendedserviceis
Witopia(www.witopia.net).
elementary,intermediate,and
advancedChinese-language
lessons.
http://ditu.google.cn:Ifyoucan
typeChinesecharacters(orcopy
andpastefromanotherdocu-
ment),thisinteractivemapof
BeijingandChinaisinvaluable.
www.thatsbj.com:Thisisthe
bestplacetofindup-to-date
informationonartsandenter-
tainmenteventsaroundtown.
www.time-blog.com/china_
blog:Timemagazinesblog
servesbite-sizeportionsofthe
latestnewsworthyeventsin
China.
www.timeout.com/travel/
beijing:TimeOutprovidesa
briefoverviewofthecity.
www.weather.com:Up-to-the-
minuteworldwideweather
reports.
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VisaRequirements
AllvisitorstomainlandChinamust
obtainavisainadvance.Visaapplica-
tionstypicallytake3to5working
daystoprocess,althoughthiscanbe
shortenedtoaslittleas1dayifyou
applyinpersonandpayextrafees.
L(tourist)visasarevalidfor
between1and3months.Usually1
monthisgrantedunlessyourequest
more,whichyoumayormaynotget
accordingtoeventsinChinaatthe
time.Double-entrytouristvisasare
alsoavailable.Itvaries,buttypically
yourvisitmustbeginwithin90days
ofthedateofissue.
Cellphones(MobilePhones)
Beijing(andallofChina)isonthe
GSMtri-bandnetwork,somakesure
thecellphoneyoubringiscompati-
ble.Youmayneedtohaveyourser-
viceproviderunlockyour
cellphonetouseitwithalocalpro-
vider.Thecheapandpainlessway
togettalkingistobuyaSIMcardat
acellphoneshop.Apopularpro-
viderisChinaMobile;itcharges
0.60perminute.Addmoneyto
yourcardwithprepaidcallingcards
thatrangefrom50to100andare
availableatkiosksaroundtown.
GettingThere
ByPlane
Chinasinternationalairlinesoften
offerlowerratesthanforeigncarri-
ersfordirect,nonstopflights.Many
ofthemhavepartnershipswith
internationalairlines,soyoucanstill
cashinonthosecovetedfrequent-
flyermiles.AirChinaisoneofthe
betterairlines.Theyhaverecently
joinedinternationalaviationnet-
workStarAlliance,andarecurrently
partnerswithUnited.Onlyone
majorairport,BeijingCapitalInter-
nationalairport(PEK),servesBeijing.
ForalistofairlinesthatflytoBei-
jing,seep176.
Gettingto&fromtheairport:
Youwillbepesteredbytaxitouts
assoonasyouemergefromcus-
toms.Nevergowiththesepeople.
Instead,headtothetaxiqueue
straightahead.Ratesare10for
thefirst2km(1mile)and2for
eachadditionalkilometer.The
meterstartsat11after11pm.
FromPEK,theapproximatefareis
64to96fora20-to30-minute
trip,includingthe10highwaytoll.
Airportshuttlebuses(
y
010/
6459-4375or-4376;www.bcia.com.
cn/en/passengers_Land_airport_
page.html)departfromjustoutside
theinternationalarrivalsarea.There
aresixdifferentroutesthatconnect
toseveralmajorareasaroundtown.
DestinationsincludeSanYuanQiao
(neartheHiltonandSheratonhotels),
theDongZhiMenandDongSiShi
Tiaosubwaystations,theBeijingRail-
wayStation,andHangtianQiao(near
theMarriotWest).Thefeeis16,
regardlessofyourdestinationorstop.
ByTrain
FromHungHomstationinKowloon
(HongKong),expressesrundirectly
toBeijingWestStationonalternate
days;gotowww.kcrc.comfor
schedulesandfares.FromMoscow
thereareweeklytrainsviaUlaan
BaatarinMongoliatoBeijing,and
weeklyviaamoreeasterlyroute
directlytoHarbininChinasnorth-
eastanddowntothecapital.
Theresalsoaseparateweeklyrun
fromUlaanBaatartoBeijing.Trains
runtwiceweeklyfromHanoiinViet-
namtoBeijingWestviaGuilin.
TheresalsoaservicebetweenBei-
jingandPyongyanginNorthKorea,
butyoullonlybeonthatifyouve
joinedanorganizedtour.
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Wearwhateveryoufindcomfortable.Someofthediaphanous
orapparentlysprayed-onclothingofyoungerChinesewomenis
morelikelytosurpriseyouthanyourattirewillsurprisethem.For-
eignersarestaredatregardlessofwhattheywear.Swimwear
shouldtendtowardtheconservativebyWesternstandards
swimsuitsratherthanbikinisforwomenbutnotifyouareusing
poolsindeluxehotelswithforeignguests.Businessattireissimilar
tothatoftheWest.Formostvisitors,opportunitiestodressup
formallyarefew;norestaurantsorhotelsabsolutelyrequirea
jacketortieformen.
Greetingsandgestures:Thehandshakeisnowusedasitisin
theWest,althoughtheresatendencytohangonlonger.Bring
businesscardsifyouhavethem,asanexchangeofcardsalmost
alwaysfollowsagreeting.Presentyourswithtwohands,andthen
holdtheoneyouregivenwithtwohands.Ifyoucanspeakeven
twowordsofMandarin,youwillbetoldthatyouspeakverywell.
Thisissomethingyoushoulddenyevenifyouarefluent.
Avoidingoffense:Howevergreattheprovocation,donotlose
yourtemperandshoutatsomeoneinpublicorcausehimorherto
experiencepublicshame(lossofface).Evenflatlycontradicting
someoneinfrontofothers(sohelosesface)isalsobestavoidedif
harmonyistobemaintained.Instead,complaincalmlyandpri-
vately,anddirectlytoasuperiorifyouwish.Punctualityisvery
importantinChina,andthetrafficsituationinmostcitiesmakes
thatdifficult,soallowplentyoftimetogetwhereyouaregoingif
youaremeetingsomeone.
Eatinganddrinking:Mastertheuseofchopsticksbeforeyou
go.Suggestionsmadebythehostthatthefoodislackinginsome
wayshouldalwaysbegreetedwithfirmdenials.Serveyourself
frommaindishesusingthespoonprovided,theneatwithchop-
sticks.Donotleavethemstickingupoutofyourbowl.Yourcupof
teawillconstantlybetoppedoffifyoudontwantanymore,leave
itfull.Theresagreatdealofcompetitivedrinkingatbanquets,
whichisdonebythesimultaneousdrinkingoftoastsinbaijiu(Chi-
nesespirits),tocriesofGanbei!(drycupdowninone).Avoid
participationbydrinkingbeerormineralwaterinstead,butiftoasts
ofwelcomearemade,besuretomakeoneinreply.Diningtendsto
happenearly,andattheendofthemealeveryonedisappears
quickly.Ifyouareinvitedtoeatatsomeoneshome,besuretotake
offyourshoesattheentrance(yourhostsprotestationsthatits
notnecessaryaremerelypolite).
Etiquette&Customs
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weveincludedthenameofthesub-
waystopattheendoftheentry.If
nosubwaystopislisted,yourbest
betistotakeataxi.
ByBus
Beijingbusescanbeslightlydaunt-
ing.Rushhourisparticularlypainful,
aspeoplearejammedintothemlike
sardinesinacan.Butifyoucannav-
igateyourwaytoyourfinaldestina-
tion,youllspendverylittle.Fares
rangefrom1to5.Subwaycards
(seeBySubway,above)getyou
20%to60%farediscounts,making
thejourneyevenmoreaffordable.
ByBike
Beijingisflat,sobikingisanexcel-
lentmeansoftravel.SeeBike
RentalsinFastFacts,below.
Wheneverpossible,trytopark
thebikeinmarkedandsupervised
enclosures,usingthelock,orexpect
thebiketobegonewhenyouget
back.Theparkingfeeisusually
0.20.
ByTaxi
Taxisareeverywhereandareacon-
venientwaytotravelaroundtownif
youavoidrushhour.Faresare10
forthefirst2km(1mile)and2for
eachadditionalkilometer.The
meterstartsat11after11pm.
BySubway(ditie)
Beijinghasmassivelyexpandedits
subwaylinesoverthelast5years.
Atpresstime,eightsubwaylines
wereopenandmostdestinations
withinthecenteroftownarereach-
ableviasubwayanda5-to10-min-
utewalk.Faresforpaperticketsare
3to5.Alternatively,youcanbuy
anelectroniccardthatcanbeused
forsubwayandbusrides.Thesub-
waycard,officiallyknownasthe
MunicipalAdministrationandCom-
municationCard(ShizhengJiao-
tongYikatong)canbeboughtfora
40minimum(including20for
deposit).Throughoutthisguide,
notethatifadestinationisa5-to
10-minutewalkfromasubwaystop,
GettingAround
FastFacts
APARTMENTRENTALSCheckout
http://beijing.craigslist.organd
www.homtel.cn/e/eindex.aspfor
short-termhousingneeds.Youll
likelynegotiatearentaldirectly
fromtheunitsowner.
ATMS/CASHPOINTSAsinmostcities
thesedays,obtainingmoneyisa
simplematterofliningupatthe
nearestATMandplugginginyour
bankcard.VisaATMLocator(www.
visa.com)giveslocationsofPLUS
ATMsworldwide;MasterCardATM
Locator(www.mastercard.com)pro-
videslocationsofCirrusATMs
worldwide.
BANKINGHOURSMostbanksare
openMondaythroughFriday9am
to5:30pm,SaturdayandSunday
10amto5pm.Manybanksalsohave
ATMsfor24-hourbanking.
BIKERENTALSIfyouwanttobike
aroundTiananmen,yourbestbetis
CycleChina(12JingshanDongLu;
y
010/6402-5653or0/139-1188-
6524).Rentalpricesare60to80
perday(includinghelmetsand
locks),andthedepositis400.
BUSINESSHOURSOfficesaregener-
allyopen9amto6pm,butclosed
SaturdayandSunday.Allshops,
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CLIMATESeeTheWeather,
above.
CONCERTSSeeTickets,laterin
thischapter.
CREDITCARDSCreditcardsare
becomingamoreconvenient
methodofpaymentinBeijing,
thoughyoushouldcarrysomecash
withyouaswell,especiallyforshop-
pingtrips.Mostplacesarecashonly
andthosethatacceptcreditcards
oftenchargeanadditionalfee,any-
wherefrom2%to4%.
CURRENCYLargerbranchesofthe
BankofChinatypicallyexchangecash
andtravelerschecksonweekdays
only,from9amto4pm,occasionally
withabreakforlunch(11:30am
1:30pm).Mostcentralisthebranchat
thebottomofWangfujingDajie,next
sights,restaurants,andtransport
systemsofferthesameservice7
daysaweek.Shopsaretypically
openatleast8amto8pm.
CARRENTALSBecauseofthemany
drivinghazardsinBeijing,rentinga
carisnotrecommendedforvisitors.
Takingtaxisischeaperandeasier.If
youmust,Hertz(www.hertz.net.cn)
hasofficesat205OceanInterna-
tionalCenter,TowerA,DongSihuan
ZhongLu(
y
010/5908-1313),open
9amto6pmweekdays.Thebigsnag
isthataChinesedriverslicenseanda
residencepermitarerequired,some-
thingnoshort-termvisitorwillbeable
toarrange,butyoucanrentacar
withadriver.Thefleetisfairlybat-
tered(localsrentcarswhenlearning
todrive),anditsoftendifficultto
obtainavehicleonweekends.
YuanU.S.$U.K.
Taxifromairporttocitycenter75.009.754.90
plus10tollfee(usemeter!)100.0013.006.50
Upto3km(lessthan2miles)bytaxi10.001.300.65
Metroride3.000.380.20
Localtelephonecall0.500.070.03
Heartybowlofbeefnoodlesat4.800.600.32
abasicrestaurant
RegularcoffeeatStarbucks12.001.500.81
McDonaldssetmealforone18.002.251.21
Dinnerfortwoatasimple30.003.752.02
homestylerestaurant
Dinnerfortwoin150.0019.509.75
foreigner-frequentedareas
Dinnerfortwointophotel640.0080.0043.00
restaurant
Bottleofbeeratanordinary3.000.380.20
restaurantorstore
Bottleofbeerina30.003.802.04
foreigner-frequentedbardistrict
AdmissiontotheForbiddenCity60.007.504.32
AdmissiontotheLamaTemple25.003.351.63
WhatThingsCostinBeijing
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usedwithoutatransformer.Some
outletstaketheNorthAmerican
two-flat-pinplug(butnotthethree-
pinversion,orthosewithonepin
broaderthantheother).Nearlyas
commonareoutletsforthetwo-
round-pinplugscommoninEurope.
Outletsforthethree-flat-pin(two
pinsatanangle)usedinAustralia,
forinstance,arealsofrequently
seen.Mosthotelroomshaveall
three,andindeedmanyoutletsare
designedtotakeallthreeplugs.
EMBASSIESBeijinghastwomain
embassyareasonesurrounding
RitanGongyuan,northofJianguo
MenWaiDajie,andanotherinSanLi
Tun,northofGongtiBeiLu.Athird
district,futurehomeofthenewU.S.
Embassy,hassproutedupnextto
theHiltonHoteloutsidethenorth
sectionofEastThirdRingRoad.
EmbassiesaretypicallyopenMon-
daythroughFridayfrom9amto4or
5pm,withalunchbreakfromnoon
to1:30pm.TheU.S.Embassyisat
55AnJiaLouLu,northofLiang-
maheLuneartheLuftansaCenter
(
y
010/8531-4000).TheCanadian
EmbassyisatDongZhiMenWai
Dajie19(
y
010/5139-4449).The
BritishEmbassyconsularsectionis
inRitanatFloor21,NorthTower,
KerryCentre,1GuanghuaLu
(
y
010/5192-4239).TheAustralian
EmbassyisinSanLiTunat21Dong
ZhiMenWaiDajie(
y
010/5140-
4111).TheNewZealandEmbassy
isinRitanat1DongErJie
(
y
010/6532-7000).
EMERGENCIESDial
y
120for
emergencymedicalservices;dial
y
110forallotheremergencies.
EVENTLISTINGSYourbestbets
onlineareCityWeekend(www.city
weekend.com.cn/beijing)andThe
Beijinger(www.thebeijinger.com)
forrestaurant,bar,andupcoming
eventlistings.InBeijing,lookfor
TimeOutBeijingandTheBeijinger,
totheOrientalPlaza.Otheruseful
branchesincludethoseatFucheng
MenNeiDajie410;onJianguoMen
WaiDajie,westoftheScitechBuild-
ing;intheLufthansaCenter,nextto
theKempinskiHotel;andinTower1
oftheChinaWorldTradeCenter.You
willneedtobringyourpassport.See
Money,p158.
CUSTOMSFilloutalltheformsthat
theflightattendantshandouton
theplane.Forgettingonewillsend
youallthewaytothebackofthe
lineattheairportanditcanbe
incrediblyfrustrating.Atpresstime,
mostinternationaltravelersmustfill
outaQuarantineForm,anEntry
Form,andaCustomsForm.
DENTISTSThereputableservices
areArrail(208CITICBldg.,19Jian-
guomenwaiDajie;
y
010/6500-
6473;www.arrail-dental.com;
appointmentsneedtobemade2
daysinadvance),andKingsDen-
tal(Shop118,G/FBeijingTower-
crestPlazano.3MaizidianXilu;
y
010/8458-0388;www.kings
dental.com).
DININGDininginBeijingis
extremelycasualandjacketsfor
menarerarelyrequired.Reserva-
tionsarealsonotaconcern,except
forsomepopularplacessuchas
MaisonBoulud(p81)andMadein
China(p81).
DOCTORSTheSOSInternational
Clinic(105KunshaBldg.,16Xinyu-
anli,ChaoyangDistrict;
y
010/
6462-9112)andBeijingUnitedFam-
ilyHospital(2JiangTaiLu,Chao
YangDistrict;
y
010/5927-7000)
reputedlyofferexcellentandcom-
prehensivecareinmanylanguages.
ELECTRICITYTheelectricvoltagein
Beijingis220V/50Hzandthestan-
dardwallsockethasthreeconnec-
tors.Mostelectricaldevicesfrom
NorthAmerica,therefore,cannotbe
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mustpayincashbeforeyoure
allowedtoleave.Ifthishappensto
you,youllhavetowaituntilyou
returnhometosubmityourclaim,
somakesureyouhaveadequate
proofofpayment.
Lost-luggageinsurance:On
U.S.domesticflights,checkedbag-
gageiscoveredupto$2,800per
ticketedpassenger.Oninternational
flights(includingU.S.portionsof
internationaltrips),baggageislim-
itedtoapproximately$9.07per
pound,uptoapproximately$635
percheckedbag.Ifyouplanto
checkitemsmorevaluablethanthe
standardliability,seeifyourvalu-
ablesarecoveredbyyourhome-
ownerspolicy,orgetbaggage
insuranceaspartofyourcompre-
hensivetravel-insurancepackage.
Readthepolicycarefullysome
valuablesareeffectivelyuninsur-
able,andothershavesuchhigh
excesschargesthattheinsuranceis
notworthbuying.
Ifyourluggageislost,immedi-
atelyfilealost-luggageclaimatthe
airport.Formostairlines,youmust
reportdelayed,damaged,orlost
baggagewithin4hoursofarrival.
Theairlinesarerequiredtodeliver
luggage,oncefound,directlyto
yourhouseordestinationfreeof
charge,althoughdontexpectthat
necessarilytoworkwithdomestic
Chineseairlines.
INTERNETBeijinghasmanyWi-Fi
locationsatrestaurants,cafes,and
hotelsandInternetcafesarepopu-
laramongyouth.Websurfingmay
bemonitoredandaccesstoweb-
sitesdeemedsensitivebythegov-
ernmentisoftendenied.Ifthe
requestisforasitethatisonthe
governmentsblacklist(Wikipedia,
atthetimeofthiswriting,forexam-
ple),itwontgetthrough.Ifyou
wanttosurftheWebonyourper-
sonalcomputerwithoutrunning
intosuchproblems,consider
twomonthlymagazines,forup-to-
datelistings.
HOLIDAYSBanks,government
offices,postoffices,andmany
stores,restaurants,andmuseums
areclosedonthefollowingnational
holidays:NewYearsDay(Jan1),
SpringFestival(ChineseNewYears
dayandthefollowing2dayssee
Festivals&SpecialEvents,earlierin
thischapterforexactdatesincoming
years),TombSweepingDay(alunar
holidaysometimeinApr),LaborDay
(May1),DragonBoatFestival(alunar
holidayusuallycelebratedinMayor
June),Mid-AutumnMoonFestival(a
lunarholidayinSeptorOct),and
NationalDay(Oct1).
INSURANCECheckyourexisting
insurancepoliciesandcreditcard
coveragebeforeyoubuytravel
insurance.Youmayalreadybecov-
eredforlostluggage,canceledtick-
ets,ormedicalexpenses.Thecost
oftravelinsurancevarieswidely,
dependingonthecostandlengthof
yourtrip,yourage,yourhealth,and
thetypeoftripyouretaking.
Trip-cancellationinsurance
helpsyougetyourmoneybackif
youhavetobackoutofatrip,ifyou
havetogohomeearly,orifyour
travelsuppliergoesbankrupt.
Allowablereasonsforcancellation
canrangefromsicknesstonatural
disasterstoagovernmentdepart-
mentdeclaringyourdestination
unsafefortravel.Insurersusually
wontcovervaguefears,though.
ForChina,purchasemedical
insurancethatincludesanair
ambulanceorscheduledairline
repatriation.Beclearontheterms
andconditionsisrepatriationlim-
itedtolife-threateningillnesses,for
instance?Whilethereareadvanced
facilitiesstaffedbyforeigndoctors
inBeijing,regularChinesehospitals
aretobeavoided.Theymaycharge
youasubstantialbill,whichyou
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omitted,alongwithkuaiqian,which
istakenasread,especiallyindirect
replytothequestionduoshaoqian
Howmuch?
PASSPORTVisitorsmusthavea
validpassportwithatleast6
monthsvalidityandtwoblank
pagesremaining(youmaygetaway
withjustoneblankpage).
PHARMACIESGoldenElephant
(277WangfujingDajie;
y
010/6522-
9135)isareputablepharmacy
chainwhereyoullfindastockof
familiardrugs(hoorayforTylenol).
BranchesofWatsonsarealsoa
goodbet(onthefirstfloorofFull
LinkPlazaatChaoyangMenWai
Dajie19,andinthebasementofthe
OrientalPlazaatthebottomof
WangfujingDajie1;10am9pm).
Theystockmostcommonremedies
andtoiletries,mostlyintheBritish
versions.Formorespecificdrugs,
trythepharmacyintheBeijing
UnitedFamilyHospitalorthe
SOSClinic(seeDoctors,above).
POLICEThepolice(jingcha)are
quitesimplybestavoidedhon-
estly,manyarekeentoavoiddoing
anywork.Ideally,anyinteraction
withthepoliceshouldbelimitedto
visaextensions.Ifyoumustsee
themforsomereason,approach
yourhotelforassistancefirst,and
visitthemainPublicSecurityBureau
(gonganjuinChinese,PSBtofor-
eigners)officeonthesouthsideof
theeasternNorthSecondRing
Road,justeastoftheLamaTemple
subwaystop(
y
010/8401-5300;
MonSat8:30am4:30pm).
POSTOFFICETherearenumerous
ChinaPostofficesaroundthecity,
includingoneinsidetheLandmark
Hotel(nexttotheGreatWallShera-
ton),oneonDianmenwaiDajie
(1blocksouthoftheDrumTower),
themainofficeonJianguomenwai
Dajie(almostoppositethe
signingupforaWebproxyservice
suchasWitopia(www.witopia.net)
beforeyouarriveinChina.
LOSTPROPERTYBesuretocontact
allofyourcreditcardcompanies
theminuteyoudiscoveryourwallet
hasbeenlostorstolen.Yourcredit
cardcompanyorinsurermay
requireapolicereportnumberor
recordoftheloss,althoughmany
PublicSecurityBureaus(policesta-
tions)willbereluctanttodoany-
thingasenergeticasliftapen.Most
creditcardcompanieshavean
emergencytoll-freenumberto
callifyourcardislostorstolen:In
mainlandChina,Visasemergency
numberis
y
800/711-2911or
800/110-2911;AmericanExpress
cardholdersandtravelerscheck
holdersshouldcall
y
010/800-610-
0277;MasterCardholdersshould
call
y
800/722-7111.Forlostpass-
ports,contactyourembassyorcon-
sulateandproceedtothemain
PublicSecurityBureau(seePolice,
below).
MAIL&POSTAGESendingmailfrom
Chinaischeapandremarkablyreli-
able.Lettersandcardswrittenin
redinkwilloccasionallyberejected,
asthiscarriesextremelynegative
overtones.Costsareasfollows:
postcards4.20,lettersunder10
grams5.40,lettersunder20
grams6.50.EMSisaninterna-
tionalexpressdeliveryservicefor
lettersandparcelspricesvaryby
weight.
MONEYThewordyuan()israrely
spoken,norisjiao,thewrittenform
forone-tenthofayuan,equivalentto
10fen(thereare100feninayuan).
Instead,theChinesespeakofpieces
ofmoney,kuaiqian,usuallyabbrevi-
atedjusttokuai;andtheyspeakof
maoforone-tenthofakuai.Fenhave
beenovertakenbyinflationandare
almostuseless.Oftenallzerosafter
thelastwholenumberaresimply
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s
eight-digitnumber.FromtheU.K.,
youwoulddial00-86-10plusthe
eight-digitnumber.Tocallwithin
China:Forcallswithinthesame
city,omitthecitycode,which
alwaysbeginswithazero(010for
Beijing,020forGuangzhou,for
example).Allhotelphoneshave
directdialing,andmosthaveinter-
nationaldialing.Hotelsareonly
allowedtoaddaservicechargeof
upto15%tothecostofthecall,and
evenlong-distancerateswithin
Chinaareverylow.Touseapublic
telephone,youllneedanIC(inte-
gratedcircuit)card,availablefrom
postoffices,conveniencestores,
andstreetstalls.ICcardsareavail-
ableinvaluesbeginningat20(you
canpurchasethesewhereveryou
canmakeoutthelettersICamong
theChinesecharacters).Abrief
localcallistypically0.30to0.50.
Phonesshowyouthevalueremain-
ingonthecardwhenyouinsertit,
andcountdownasyoutalk.
Tomakeinternationalcalls:
Firstdial00andthenthecountry
code(1fortheU.S.orCanada,44
fortheU.K.,353forIreland,61for
Australia,64forNewZealand).Next
dialtheareaorcitycode,omitting
anyleadingzero,andthendialthe
number.Forexample,ifyouwantto
calltheBritishEmbassyinWashing-
ton,D.C.,youwoulddial00-1-202-
588-7800.Forgettakingaccess
numbersforyourlocalphonecom-
panywithyouyoucancallinterna-
tionallyforafractionofthecostby
usinganIP(Internetprotocol)card,
availablewhereveryouseethelet-
tersIP.Youshouldbargaintopay
lessthanthefacevalueofthe
cardaslittleas40fora100
cardfromstreetvendors.Instruc-
tionsforuseareontheback,but
yousimplydialtheaccessnumber
given,chooseEnglishfromthe
menu,andfollowtheinstructionsto
dialinthenumberbehindascratch-
offpanel.Dependingonwhereyou
InternationalHotel),andtheEMS
PostOffice(BeijingYouzhengSudi
Ju)atthecornerofQianmenDong
DajieandZhengyiLu.Thereisa
FedExofficeinOrientalPlaza,room
107,number1OfficeBuilding.DHL
hasbranchesintheChinaWorld
CenterandCOFCOPlaza.
SAFETYChinaisoneofAsiassaf-
estdestinations.Asanywhereelse,
though,youshouldbecautiousof
theftinplacessuchascrowded
markets,populartouristsites,bus
andrailwaystations,andairports.
SMOKINGGiventhecityspollution
levels,thegenerallylaxattitudeto
publicsmokingshouldcomeasno
surprise.Nonsmokingtablesinres-
taurantsareprettymuchnonexis-
tent.Smokersareusuallysentto
thespacesbetweencarriageson
trains,andbusesareusuallysmoke-
freehavens.
STAYINGHEALTHYThegreatestrisk
totheenjoymentofavacationin
Chinaisoneofstomachupsetsor
moreseriousillnessesarisingfrom
lowhygienestandards.Keepyour
handsfrequentlywashedandaway
fromyourmouth.Onlyeatfreshly
cookedhotfood,andfruityoucan
peelyourselfavoidtouchingthe
parttobeeatenonceitsbeen
peeled.Drinkonlyboiledorbottled
water.Neverdrinkfromthetap.Use
bottledwaterforbrushingyourteeth.
TAXISSeeGettingAround,ear-
lierinthischapter.
TELEPHONESTheinternational
countrycodeformainlandChinais
86.TocallChina:Dialtheinterna-
tionalaccesscode(011intheU.S.,
00intheU.K.,forexample),then
thecountrycode(86forChina),
thenthecitycode,omittingtheini-
tialzero,andthenthenumber.To
reachBeijingfromNorthAmerica,
youwoulddial011-86-10-plusthe
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ofChicago,and16hoursaheadof
LosAngeles.Theresnodaylight
savingtime.
TIPPINGInmainlandChinathereis
generallynotipping.Untilrecently,
tippingwasexpresslyforbidden,
andsomehotelsstillcarrysigns
requestingyounottotip.Foreign-
ers,especiallythoseontours,are
overchargedateveryturn,andit
bemusesChinesethattheyhand
outfreemoneyinaddition.Chinese
neverdoitthemselves,andindeed
ifabellhoporotherhotelemployee
hintsthatatipwouldbewelcome,
heorsheislikelytobefired.Wait-
ressesmayrunoutofrestaurants
afteryoutoreturnatiptoyou,and
allbutthemostcorruptoftaxidriv-
erswillinsistonreturningatip,too.
Hotelemployeesandtaxidrivers
arealreadyfarbetterpaidthanthe
averageChinese,andtobeatour
guideisalreadyalicensetoprint
money.InChina,thelistedpriceor
thepricebargainedforistheprice
youpay,andthatsthat.
TOILETSManyarenowstaffedby
serviceattendantsandhavebeen
upgradedfromopendirtpitstopor-
celainsquattertoiletsinseparate
stalls(withdoors!).Freesoapand
toiletpaper,however,isexpecting
toomuch.Travelwithyourowntis-
suesandwetnaps.
call,50cangiveyouanhourof
talking.Ifusingapublicphone,
youllneedanICcardtomakethe
call.Inemergencies,dial
y
108to
negotiateacollectcall,butyoull
needhelpfromaMandarinspeaker.
Fordirectoryassistance:Dial
y
114.NoEnglishisspoken,and
onlylocalnumbersareavailable.If
youwantnumbersforothercities,
dialthecitycodefollowedby
114along-distancecall.Youcan
textthenameoftheestablishment
youarelookingfor(inEnglish)to
85880,andforasmallfee,the
addresswillreturninChinese,ready
toshowtoyourtaxidriver.
Foroperatorassistance:Just
askforhelpatyourhotel.
Toll-freenumbers:Numbers
beginningwith800withinChinaare
toll-free,butcallinga1-800number
intheStatesfromChinaisafull-tar-
iffinternationalcall,asiscallingone
inHongKongfrommainlandChina,
orviceversa.
TICKETSAreliableonlinebox
officeisPiao(www.piao.com.cn
or
y
400/610-3721).Theyselltick-
etstothelatestmusical,dance,and
sportsevents.Youcanvisitthemat
7F,32DongzhongJie.
TIMEZONEAllofChinaisonBeijing
time8hoursaheadofGMT(and
thereforeofLondon),13hours
aheadofNewYork,14hoursahead
Beijing:ABriefHistory
9301122Aprovincialtownroughly
onthesiteofmodernBeijing
becomesthesoutherncapitalof
theKhitanMongolLiaodynasty.
11221215Thecityistakenoverby
theJurchenTartarJindynasty.
1215MongolemperorGenghisKhan
descendsintothecapitaland
razeseverythinginsight.
126793UnderKublaiKhans(Geng-
hisgrandson)rule,thecapital
Khanbalik(Khanstown)iscon-
structed.ItsknownasDaDu
(GreatCapital)inMandarin;Cam-
bulacinMarcoPolosaccountof
thecity.
1271KublaiKhanformallyadopts
thenewdynastysname:the
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ofparksandpalaces.Hisrequests
forincreasedtradeandforaper-
manenttraderepresentativein
Beijingareturneddown.When
theQianlongemperordiesin
1799,thegovernmentistermi-
nallycorruptandindecline.
1858TheSecondOpiumWarsees
theQingandtheirChinesesub-
jectscapitulatinginthefaceof
thesuperiormilitarytechnology
ofbarbarians(principallythe
British)forthesecondtimein16
years.Underthetermsofthe
TreatyofNanjing,Chinaisforced
topermitthepermanentresi-
denceofforeigndiplomatsand
traderepresentativesinthe
capital.
1860TheQingimprisonandmurder
foreignrepresentativessentfor
thetreatysratification.British
andFrenchrescueforcesoccupy
Beijinganddestroyavastareaof
parksandpalacestothenorth-
west.Foreignpowersbeginto
constructdiplomaticlegation
buildingsjustinsidetheTartar
CityswalleastofQianMen.
1900TheHarmoniousFists,nick-
namedtheBoxers,asupersti-
tious,antiforeignpeasant
movement,besiegestheforeign
residentsoftheLegationQuar-
ter,withtheinitiallycovertand
finallyopenassistanceofimpe-
rialtroops.Thesiegebeginson
June19andisonlylifted,after
extensivedestructionandmany
deaths,bytheforcesofEight
AlliedPowers(severalEuropean
nations,Japan,andtheUnited
States)onAugust14.Boxers,
imperialtroops,Chinese,foreign
survivors,andalliedsoldierstake
tolootingthecity.Paymentsona
vastindemnitytaketheQinga
further39yearstopayinfull,
althoughtheBritishandAmeri-
cansusemuchoftheincometo
Yuan(12151368).By1279,Kub-
laiKhanmakeshimselfrulerof
thelargestempiretheworldhas
everknown.
127392MarcoPolosghostwritten
accountofhistimeinKhanbalik
capturestheimaginationofEuro-
peanreaders.
1368TheMingdynasty,having
drivenouttheMongols,estab-
lishesitscapitalatNanjing.Da
DubecomesBeiping(ThePaci-
fiedNorth).
1420TheYongleemperorbecomes
thefirstChineseemperorto
reignfromBeijing.TheForbidden
CityandTempleofHeavenare
constructed.
1550InresponsetoMongolattacks,
alowersouthernextensionto
thecitywallisbegun,eventually
enclosingthecommercialdis-
trict,theimportantceremonial
sitesoftheTemple(Altar)of
HeavenandAltarofAgriculture,
andabroadswathofcountryside
(whichremainsfreeofbuildings
wellintothe20thc.).Beijing
remainslargelythesameforthe
next400years.
16441911Aspeasantrebelsover-
runthecapital,thelastMing
emperorisdriventosuicide.
Shortlyafterward,therebelsare
drivenoutbyinvadingManchu
forces,whoseQingdynasty
transfersitscapitalfromManchu-
riatoBeijing,absorbingChina
intoitsownempire.Chineseare
expelledfromthenorthernsec-
tionofthecity,whichbecomes
thehomeofManchumilitaryand
courtiers.Thesouthernsection
becomestheChinesequarterof
Beijing.
179394GeorgeIIIsemissarytothe
QianlongemperorvisitsChina
andpassesthroughBeijing,stay-
ingoutsidethecityinavastarea
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manyancientbuildingsarevan-
dalizedorcoveredinpolitical
slogans.
1933WithJapanesearmiesseem-
inglypoisedtooccupyBeiping,
themostimportantpiecesofthe
imperialcollectionofantiquities
intheForbiddenCityarepacked
into19,557cratesandmovedto
Shanghai.Theymoveagainwhen
theJapanesetakeShanghaiin
1937,andeventually13,484
cratesendupwiththeNational-
istgovernmentinTaiwanin
1949.
1937JapaneseforcesoccupyBei-
jing,andstayuntiltheendof
WorldWarII.
1949MaoZedongproclaimsthecre-
ationofthePeoplesRepublicof
China.Avastfloodofrefugees
fromthecountrysidetakesover
thecourtyardhousescomman-
deeredfromtheirowners.Tem-
plesareturnedintoarmy
barracks,storehouses,andlight
industrialunits.
1950TheChinesearmydefeatsthe
Tibetanarmyandclaimssover-
eigntyovertheregion.
195859Inaseriesofmajorprojects
tomark10yearsofCommunist
rule,theoldministrieslining
whatwillbeTiananmenSquare
anditssurroundingwallsareflat-
tenedfortheconstructionofthe
GreatHallofthePeopleandthe
vastmuseumsopposite.These
andBeijingRailwayStationare
builtwithSoviethelp.The
400-year-oldcitywallsarepulled
downandreplacedwithasub-
waylineandaringroad.
196676Thedestructionreachesits
peakasbandsofRedGuardsran-
sackancientbuildings,burn
helpfoundYan-ching(now
Peking)Universityandotherinsti-
tutions,andtopayforyoungChi-
nesetostudyoverseas.
1911TheQingdynastysdownfallis
broughtaboutbyanalmostacci-
dentalrevolution,andbetrayal
byYuanShikai,themantheQing
trustedtocrushit.Henegotiates
withbothsidesandextractsan
abdicationagreementfromthe
regentoftheinfantemperor,
Puyi,andanagreementfromthe
rebelsthathewillbecomethe
firstpresidentofthenew
republic.
1915YuanShikairevivesannualcer-
emoniesattheTempleof
Heaven,andpreparestoinstall
himselfasthefirstemperorofa
newdynasty,butwidespread
demonstrationsandthefoment-
ingofanewrebellioninthe
southleadhimtocancelhis
plans.Hediesthefollowingyear.
1917InJulyapromonarchistwar-
lordputsPuyibackonthe
throne,butheisdrivenoutby
anotherwarlordwhodropsthree
bombsontheForbiddenCity.
1919Studentsandcitizensgather
onMay4inTiananmenSquare
toprotestthegovernments
agreementthatChineseterritory
formerlyunderGermancontrol
behandedtotheJapanese.
1924TheQingemperorisremoved
byahostilewarlordandput
underhousearrest,laterescap-
ingtotheLegationQuarterwith
thehelpofhisScottishformer
tutor.
1928NationalistPartyforcesinthe
southdeclareNanjingthecapital,
andBeijingrevertstothename
ofBeiping.Inthefollowingyears
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1989Thedeathofthemoderatebut
disgracedofficialHuYaobang
causespublicdisplaysofmourn-
inginTiananmenSquare,which
turnintoamassoccupationof
thesquareprotestinggovern-
mentcorruption.Itshandsini-
tiallytiedbythepresenceofthe
SovietUnionsMikhailGorbachev
onastatevisit,thePartysends
tanksintoTiananmenSquare,
whichisbroadcastliveonTVon
thenightofJune3.Estimatesof
thenumberofdeathsvarywildly,
butthenumberisthoughttorun
toseveralhundredunarmedstu-
dentsandtheirsupporters.
2001Beijingisawardedthe2008
SummerOlympics.
2008Beijinghoststhe2008Summer
Olympicsasnewmonuments
suchastheBirdsNestStadium
andtheCCTVTowerarecom-
pletedandmanyresidentsare
displacedfromoldneighbor-
hoods.ElsewhereinChina,a
powerfulearthquakestrikesSich-
uanprovinceandriotsbreakout
inTibet.
2009Beijingcelebratesthe60th
anniversaryofthefoundingof
thePeoplesRepublicofChina.
Whilemuchoftheindustrialized
worldfallsintoarecession,China
continuestogroweconomically.
RiotsbreakoutinChinasnorth-
westXinjiangprovince.
TODAYChinaseconomycontinues
toexpandwhilethegovernment
stillimposescertainlimitson
freedomandhumanrights.Asto
whetherChinacansustainhigh
growthratesisquestionedby
manyexperts,yetitisbecoming
alargerindustrial,cultural,and
politicalforcearoundtheworld.
books,andsmashart.Intellectu-
alsarebullied,imprisoned,tor-
tured,andmurdered,asare
manywithahistoryoflinksto
foreigners.Scoresaresettled,
andmillionsdie.Theeducation
systemlargelycomestoahalt.
Manyantiquitiesimpounded
fromtheirownersaresoldtofor-
eigndealersbyweighttoprovide
fundsforthegovernment,which
laterdecriesforeigntheftofChi-
neseantiquities.
1972PresidentRichardNixonarrives
inBeijingfora7-daystay.The
visitmarksaturningpointinrela-
tionsbetweentheU.S.and
China.
1976ThedeathofZhouEnlai,whois
creditedwithmitigatingsomeof
theworstexcessesoftheCul-
turalRevolution,motivatesmore
than100,000peopletodemon-
strateagainstthegovernmentin
TiananmenSquare.Thedemon-
strationsarelabeledcounterrev-
olutionary,andhundredsare
arrested.ThedeathofMao
Zedong,himselfthoughttobe
responsibleforanestimated38
milliondeaths,effectivelybrings
theCulturalRevolutiontoanend.
BlamefortheCulturalRevolution
isputontheGangofFour
Maoswifeandthreeotherhard-
lineofficials,whoarearrested.
The450-year-oldDaMingMenin
thecenterofTiananmenSquare
ispulleddowntomakewayfor
Maosmausoleum.Leadersback
DengXiaoping,whoreturnsfrom
disgracetotakepowerand
launchaprogramofopenness
andeconomicreform.Hisown
tolerationforpubliccriticismalso
turnsouttobezero,however.
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MandarinLanguageGuide
PnynPronunciation
LettersinPnynmostlyhavethevaluesanyEnglishspeakerwouldexpect,
withthefollowingexceptions:
ctsasinbits
qchasinchin,butmuchharderandmoreforward,madewithtongueand
teeth
rhasnotrueequivalentinEnglish,buttherofreedisclose,althoughthe
tipofthetongueshouldbenearthetopofthemouth,andtheteeth
together
xalsohasnotrueequivalent,butisnearesttotheshofsheep,although
thetongueshouldbeparalleltotheroofofthemouthandtheteeth
together
zhisasoftj,likethedgeinjudge
Thevowelsarepronouncedroughlyasfollows:
aasinfather
easinerr(lengispronouncedasEnglishlung)
iispronouncedeeaftermostconsonants,butafterc,ch,r,s,sh,z,andzh
isabuzzatthefrontofthemouthbehindclosedteeth
oasinsong
uasintoo
isthepurer,lips-purseduofFrenchtuandGerman.Confusingly,u
afterj,x,q,andyisalways,butinthesecasestheaccentoverdoes
notappear.
aisoundslikeeye
aoasinouch
eiasinhay
iaasinyak
iansoundslikeyen
iangsoundslikeyang
iusoundslikeyou
ouasintoe
uaasinguava
uisoundslikeway
uosoundslikeor,butismoreabrupt
Notethatwhentwoormorethird-tonesoundsfollowoneanother,they
shouldall,exceptthelast,bepronouncedassecond-tone
MandarinBareEssentials
Greetings&Introductions
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
HelloNho
Howareyou?Nhoma?
Fine.Andyou?Whnho.Nne?
Imnottoowell/Bho
Thingsarent
goingwell
Whatisyourname?Nnguxng?
(verypolite)
My(family)nameisWxng
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G
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Imknownas(family,Wjio
thengivenname)
Imfrom[America]Wshcng[Migu]
lide
Im[American]Wsh[Migu]rn
[Australian][odly]
[British][Ynggu]
[Canadian][Jind]
[Irish][irln]
[aNewZealander][Xnxln]
Excuseme/ImsorryDubq
IdontunderstandWtngbdng
ThankyouXixien
Correct(yes)Du
NotcorrectBdu
No,IdontwantWbyo
NotacceptableBxng
BasicQuestions&Problems
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
Excuseme/IdliketoQngwnyxi
ask
Whereis...?...zinr?
Howmuchis...?...dushoqin?
...thisone?Zhi/Zhge...
...thatone?Ni/Nge...
Doyouhave...?Nyumiyu...
Whattimedoes/...jdin?
is...?
Whattimeisitnow?Xinzijdin?
Whenis...?...shnmeshhou?
Why?Wishnme?
Who?Shi?
Isthatokay?Xngbxng?
ImfeelingillWshngbngle
Travel
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
luxury(bus,hotelhohu
rooms)
highspeed(buses,gos
expressways)
air-conditionedkngtio
Whensthelastbus?mbnchjdinki?
Numbers
Notethatmorecomplicatedformsofnumbersareoftenusedonofficial
documentsandreceiptstopreventfraudseehoweasily1canbe
changedto2,3,oreven10.FamiliarArabicnumeralsappearonbank
notes,mostsigns,taximeters,andotherplaces.Beparticularlycarefulwith
fourandten,whichsoundveryalikeinmanyregionsholdupfingers
tomakesure.Note,too,thaty,meaningone,tendstochangeitstoneall
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thetimedependingonwhatitprecedes.Dontworryaboutthisonce
youvestartedtalkingaboutmoney,almostanykindofsqueakforone
willdo.Finallynotethattwoalterswhenbeingusedwithexpressionsof
quantity.
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
zerolng
oney
twor
two(ofthem)lingge
threesn
fours
fivew
sixli
sevenq
eightb
nineji
10sh
11shy
12shr
21rshy
22rshr
51wshy
100ybi
101ybilngy
110ybiy(sh)
111ybiyshy
1,000yqin
1,500yqinw(bi)
5,678wqinlibiqshbi
10,000ywn
Money
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
1ykuiqin
2lingkuiqin
0.30snmoqin
5.05wkuilngwfn
5.50wkuiw
550wbiwshkui
5,500wqinwbikui
smallchangelngqin
Banking&Shopping
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
IwanttochangeWxinghunqin
money(foreign
exchange)
creditcardxnyngk
travelerschecklhxngzhpio
departmentstorebihushngdinor
guwzhngxn
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ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
conveniencestorexiomib
marketshchng
MayIhavealook?WKnyxia,homa?
IwanttobuyWxingmi
HowmanydoyouNyojge?
want?
twoofthemlingge
threeofthemsnge
1kilo(2
1
4lb.)ygngjn
halfakiloyjnor
bngngjn
1meter(3
1
4ft.)ym
Tooexpensive!Tigule!
Doyouhavechange?Yulngqinma?
Time
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
morningshngw
afternoonxiw
eveningwnshang
8:20amshngwbdin
rshfn
9:30amshngwjidinbn
noonzhngw
4:15pmxiwsdinyk
midnightwy
1hourygexiosh
8hoursbgexiosh
todayjntin
yesterdayzutin
tomorrowmngtin
MondayXngqy
TuesdayXngqr
WednesdayXngqsn
ThursdayXngqs
FridayXngqw
SaturdayXngqli
SundayXngqtin
Transport
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
Iwanttogoto...Wxingq...
planefij
trainhuch
busgnggngqch
long-distancebuschngtqch
taxichzch
airportfijchng
stoporstationzhn
(busortrain)
(plane/train/bus)pio
ticket
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Navigation
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
NorthBi
SouthNn
EastDng
WestX
Turnleftzugui
Turnrightyugui
Gostraightonyzhzu
crossroadsshzlku
10kilometersshgngl
ImlostWdile
Hotel
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
Howmanydays?Zhjtin?
standardroom(twinbiozhnjin
ordoublewith
privatebathroom)
passporthzho
deposityjn
IwanttocheckoutWtufng
Restaurant
ENGLISHPNYNCHINESE
Howmanypeople?Jwi?
waiter/waitressfwyun
menucidn
ImvegetarianWshchsde
DontaddMSGqngbfngwijng
Doyouhave...?Yumiyu...?
PleasebringaQngliyfnr...
portionof...
Imfullwchbole
beerpji
coffeekfi
mineralwaterkungqunshu
teachshu
Bill,pleasejizhng
BeijingMenuReader
OneofthebestthingsaboutanyvisittoChinaisthefood,atleastforthe
independenttraveler.Tourgroupsareoftentreatedtoarelentlessseriesof
cheap,blanddishesdesignedtocausenocomplaintsandtokeepthecosts
downfortheChineseoperator,sodoeverythingyoucantoescapeand
ordersomeofthespecialtieswedescribeforyouinchapter5.Herethey
areagain,inalphabeticalorderandwithcharactersyoucanshowtothe
waitress.
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Widelyavailabledishesandsnacksaregroupedinthefirstlist;youcan
ordermostoftheminanymainstreamorjiachangcai(homestyle)restau-
rant.Somedishesrecommendedinthisguidebooksreviewsofindividual
restaurantsarecommonlyavailableenoughtobeonthisfirstlist.Notethat
someofthespecialtydishesinthesecondlistareonlyavailableintheres-
taurantsreviewed,orinrestaurantsofferingaparticularregionscuisine.
SupplementtheselistswiththebilingualmenufromyourlocalChinese
restaurantathome.Thecharacterswillnotbequitethesameasthose
usedinBeijing(moresimilartothoseusedinHongKongandMacau),but
theywillbeunderstood.Dontexpectthedishestobethesame,however.
Expectthemtobebetter.
Anymainstreamnonspecialtyrestaurantcanandwillmakeanycommon
Chinesedish,whetheritsonthemenuornot.ButdontexpectBeijing
cookstomanagethesubtlerflavorsofCantonesecooking,forinstance,
unlesstherestaurantadvertisesitselfasasouthern-foodspecialist.
AsurprisingnumberofrestaurantsnowhaveEnglishmenus.Inthepast,
thiswasawarningofinflatedprices,butnowanEnglishmenuisoftenused
tobrandarestaurantasclassyintheeyesofthelocals.
Dishesoftenarriveinhaphazardorder,butmenusgenerallyopenwith
liangcai(colddishes).Exceptintop-classSino-foreignjoint-venturerestau-
rants,youarestronglyadvisedtoavoidtheseforhygienereasons.Theres-
taurantsspecialtiesalsocomeearlyinthemenu:Theyhavesignificantly
higherpricesandifyoudither,thewaitresswillrecommendthem,saying,
Ihearthisonesgood.Waitressesalwaysrecommend180dishes,never
8ones.Someofthesedishesmayoccasionallybemadefromcreatures
youwouldregardaspetsorzoocreatures(orbestinthewild),andpartsof
themyoumayconsiderinedibleorodd,likeswallowsaliva(themainingre-
dientofbirds-nestsoup,aratherblandCantonesedelicacy).
Maindishescomenext;variousmeatsandfisharefollowedbyvegeta-
blesanddoufu(tofu).Drinkscomeattheend.Youllrarelyfinddesserts
outsideofrestaurantsthatlargelycatertoforeigners.Afewwatermelon
slicesmayappear,butitsbesttoforgothem.
Soupisusuallyeatenlast.OutsideGuangdongProvince,HongKong,and
Macau,ricealsousuallyarrivesattheend;ifyouwantitwithyourmeal,you
mustask(pointtothecharactersforrice,below,whenthefirstdisharrives).
Thereisnotipping.Tea,chopsticks,andnapkinsshouldbefree
(althoughifawrappedpacketoftissuesarrivesyoumaypayasmallfee);
servicechargesdonotexistoutsideofmajorhotels;andtherearenocover
chargesortaxes.Ifaskedwhatteayouwouldlike,knowthatyouaregoing
toreceivesomethingaboveaverageandwillbechargedforit.(Exercise
caution!Somevarietiescostmorethanthemeal.)
MostChinesedishesarenotdesignedtobeeatensolo,butifyoudo
findyourselfonyourown,askforsmallportions(xiaopan),usuallyabout
70%ofthesizeofafulldishandabout70%oftheprice.Thisallowsyouto
samplethemenuproperlywithouttoomuchwaste.
WidelyAvailableDishes&Snacks
PNYNENGLISHCHINESE
babaozhouriceporridgewithnuts
andberries
bnlshochzhngsoychickenwingswith
chestnuts
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bozistuffedsteamedbuns
bngqlnicecream
chofnfriedrice
chominfriednoodles
cngboniruquick-friedbeefand
onions
dndnminnoodlesinspicybroth
dinxindimsum(snacks)
dsnxinbraisedeggplantwith
potatoesandspicy
greenpeppers
gnbinsjdusautedstringbeans
gngbojdngspicydicedchicken
withcashews
gutifrieddumplings/
potstickers
hngshofzhbraisedtofu
hngshohungybraisedyellowfish
hugurutwice-cookedpork
huguhotpot
jinbinglargecrepefoldedaround
frieddoughwithplum
andhotsauces
jiozidumplings/Chineseravioli
jngjingrusshreddedporkinsoya
sauce
mpdufuspicytofuwithchopped
meat
mintionoodles
mfnrice
mxruslicedporkwithfungus
(mushupork)
niruminbeefnoodles
ruchunkebabs/kabobs
snxinthreeflavors
(usuallyprawn,
mushroom,pork)
shujioboileddumplings
sunlbicihotandsourcabbage
sunltnghotandsoursoup
sminvegetariannoodles
sshjnmixedvegetables
tngcljisweet-and-sourpork
tenderloin
tdudnnirustewedbeefandpotato
xinbngpork-orvegetable-
stuffedfriedpancake
xhngshchojdntomatoeswitheggs
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PNYNENGLISHCHINESE
yngruchunbarbecuedlambskewers
withgroundcumin
andchilipowder
yutiofriedsaltydonut
yxingqizieggplantingarlicsauce
yxingrusshreddedporkingarlic
sauce
zhngjiosteameddumplings
zhuriceporridge
SpecialtyDishesRecommendedinRestaurantReviews
PNYNENGLISHCHINESE
bboljinggingko,nuts,andpork
insweetchilisauce
blufnpineapplerice
chshgbolojchickenwithtea-
mushroomsoup
chnployduck,mandarinpeel,
shnzhnboandmushroompotage
cupqizisweetandsourbattered
eggplant
cngshodeep-friedporkwith
medicinalherbs
DizxingmocoDigrilledlemon
koygrassfish
dlpcoldnoodlesinsesame
andvinegarsauce
dpnjdicedchickenand
noodlesintomato
sauce
Dngbifngwinortheast-style
dpibraisedribs
Dngprubraisedfattyporkin
smallclaypot
gnjungooseliverrollswith
hoisinsauce
gublbozipork-stuffedbread
dumplings
gubrupinporkwithcrispyfriedrice
guqiomxincrossing-the-bridge
ricenoodles
hungdsnshoImperialbambooshoots
wnziandvegetarian
meatballs
hungqiorusbngshredded-porkrolls
huxingduaniseed-flavoredbeans
jioliwnzicrisp-friedporkballs
jngjingrusshreddedporkwith
greenonionrolled
intofuskin
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PNYNENGLISHCHINESE
jnpitioliogoldlabelsesame
sauce(forMongolian
hotpot)
jrusldeep-friedchicken
pieceswithherb
dippingsauce
jixingygndriedfishinwinesauce
jubcholrubaconstir-friedwith
brakeleaves
koyngruroastmutton
lbcgarlic-infusedvinegar
lncisjdugreenbeansstir-fried
withsaltyvegetable
lognmshojspicydicedchickenwith
bambooandginger
lruduyjunbngspicybaconandbean
sproutsinpancakes
lwihujbozichickenandsweet
fnsausageonricein
claypot
lingbnzlsnpurpleasparagussalad
lubossbngshredded-turnip
shortcake
mllngxispicycrayfish
mltinlufieldsnailsstewedinchili
andSchunpepper
mtnilistir-friedbeefwith
broccoli,waterchest-
nuts,andtofurolls
mzhzhbolypaper-wrappedperch
andonionsonsizzling
ironplate
nngborulambandvegetable
stewservedonflat
wheatbread
nnrkurubraisedporkinred
fermentedbeancurd
gravy
niruwnshujiobeefballdumplings
nngjishojinjspicysautedchicken
fillet
nngjixiochosoybeans,greenonion,
Chinesechives,and
greenpepperina
claypot
qiominmorduocatsearbuckwheat
pastawithchopped
meat
rudngbicimeatcabbagepie
xinbng
ryhitijunvegetariansushirolls
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PNYNENGLISHCHINESE
snxinlohseafoodandgarlic
chivebuns
sshonirufoil-wrappedbeef
marinatedin
mountainherbs
shchnirubeefsautedwith
TaiwaneseBBQsauce
shnyaogngyambrothwith
mushrooms
shnyaohluredbeanrollswith
mountainherbs
shngjinbozipork-stuffedfriedbread
dumplings
shuzhufnUighur-stylericewith
carrotandmutton
shuzhuyngpilambchopsroastedwith
cuminandchili
snbijchickenreducedinrice
wine,sesameoil,and
soysauce
shuzhyboiledfishinspicy
brothwithnumbing
peppercorns
sunxingjchgarlicpaper-wrapped
chickenwings
sngnloybostewedduckwithdried
bambooshoots
TiwndfuboTaiwanesetofuand
vegetablesclaypot
tinfshokoroastedlegofmutton
yngtuwithcuminandchili
powder
tibngzicornpancakescooked
onagriddle
tduqideep-friedpotatoballs
withchilisauce
ttngshciclearsoupwithseasonal
leafygreens
xingcoculywholefriedfishwith
hotpeppersand
lemongrass
xiolngbozipork-stuffedsteamed
breaddumplings
XbidbnciXbisalad
xifndufucrabmeattofu
xisnxinshujioboiledcrabdumplings
withshrimpand
mushrooms
yngruchunspicymuttonskewers
withcumin
yngyumdufumashedsoybeanwith
lamboil
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PNYNENGLISHCHINESE
ynjxishrimpskewersin
rocksalt
ynirujungrilledlalopleafbeef
ybzhufriedwheatcakes
yuminwwosteamedoatmealnoodles
yutioniruslicedbeefwithfried
doughinsavorysauce
zhgunchngtarochipswithgarlic
sauce
zhngchycrispysmokedduck
withplumsauce
zhqihpork-stuffeddeep-fried
eggplant
zhnzhnichpearlmilktea
zhbolypaper-wrappedperch
insweetsauce
zhjcokonipilotusleafwrapped
roastbeefwith
mountainherbs
zhrubicibozisteamedbunstuffed
withporkandcabbage
zhsnqgujmushroomandmountain
herbschickensoup
zhtngjchickensoupinbamboo
vessel
zhtngpigspicystewedporkwith
mint
zhtngzhrusteamedporkwith
coriander
zujchickenmarinatedin
ricewine
zuxiliveshrimpinwine
RecommendedBooks
Thebestsingle-volumeintroductiontothepeopleofChinaandtheirworld
isJonathanD.SpencesTheSearchforModernChina(Norton1990).
SpenceisanotedhistorianwhocurrentlyteachesatYaleUniversity.The
bookbeginswiththegloryoftheMingdynastyandendswiththeopening
ofChinaandthetensionsinthefinaldecadesofthe20thcentury.Itisan
incrediblyvividandengagingread.
OldBeijingcannowonlybefoundinliterature.Theoriginsofmany
Westernfantasiesofthecapital,thencalledKhanbalik,lieintheghost-writ-
tenworkofMarcoPolo,TheTravelsofMarcoPolo.DoverPublications
two-volumereprint(1993)oftheYule-Cordiereditionisasplendidread
(althoughonlypartofPolostimewasspentinBeijing)becauseofitsenter-
tainingintroductionandfootnotesbyfamousexplorersattemptingtofol-
lowhisroute.RayHuangsironicallytitled1587:AYearofNoSignificance
(YaleUniversityPress,1982)isanaccountoftheMingdynastyindecline;
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writteninthefirstperson,itpaintsacompellingpictureofthewell-inten-
tionedWnlemperortrappedbyavast,impersonalbureaucracy.Lord
MacartneysAnEmbassytoChina(J.L.Cranmer-Byng[ed.],Longman,
1962)givesadetailedaccountofQingChinaandparticularlyBeijingatthe
endofthe18thcentury.Thisshouldbecompulsoryreadingformodern
businesspeople,asitprefiguresWTOnegotiationsandtheexpectationsof
whatwillarisefromthem.MacartneyspredictionthattheChinesewouldall
soonbeusingforksandspoonsisparticularlyrelevant.HughTrevor-Rop-
ersHermitofPeking(ElandPress,1976),parthistory,partdetectivestory,
uncoversthelifeofSirEdmundBackhouse,residentofBeijingfromtheend
oftheQingdynastyintotheRepublic.Hekneweveryoneinthecityatthe
beginningofthecentury,anddeceivedthemall,alongwithagenerationof
Chinascholars,withhisfakediaryofaManchuofficialatthetimeofthe
BoxerRebellion.AserviceablytranslatedbilingualeditionofLaoShes
Teahouse(ChineseUniversityPress,2004)succinctlycapturestheflavorof
lifeinBeijingduringthefirsthalfofthe20thcentury.Thehelplessnessof
thecharactersinthefaceofpoliticalmovementsisbothmovingandpro-
phetic.JohnBlofeldsCityofLingeringSplendour:AFrankAccountofOld
PekingsExoticPleasures(Shambala,1961)describestheseamiersideof
Beijinginthe1930s,bysomeonewhotookfrankenjoymentinitspleasures,
includingadventuresinthelanesofflowersandwillowstheQianMen
brothelquarter.AnnBridge,thewifeofaBritishdiplomatinBeijing,wrote
novelsoflifeinthecapitalsLegationQuarterinthe1930s(cocktailparties,
horseracing,problemswithservants,loveaffairsspicystuffinitsday,
andbest-selling,ifnowlargelyforgotten).PekingPicnic(ChattoandWindus,
1932;reprintedVirago,1989)featuresadisastroustriptotheoutlyingtem-
plesofTnzhSandJitiS(butonewellworthundertakingyourself).The
GingerGriffin(ChattoandWindus,1934;reprintedbyOxfordUniversity
Press,1985)offerstheadventuresofayoungwomannewlyarrivedinthe
citywhoattendsthehorseraces,andhasahappierending.
Dr.LiZhisuiwasthepersonalphysicianofMaoZedong.Hisfrankand
vividnovelThePrivateLifeofChairmanMao(RandomHouse,1994)reveals
surprisingdetailsaboutthesexualpoliticsofMaoscourt.Perhapsthebest
exampleofthehooliganliteratureofthelate1980sisPleaseDontCall
MeHuman(NoExitPress,2000),byWngShu.Thereslittleplottospeak
of,butitsadevastatingandsurrealparodyofChinesenationalism.Black
HandsofBeijing(JohnWiley,Inc.,1993),byGeorgeBlackandRobin
Munro,isthemostbalancedandleasthystericalaccountofthe
Tiananmenprotestsof1989,puttingtheminthecontextofother,better-
plannedmovementsforsocialchange,allofwhichsufferedinthefallout
fromthechaoticstudentdemonstrationsandtheirbloodysuppression.
OneBillionCustomers:LessonsfromtheFrontLinesofDoingBusinessin
China(FreePress,2005)isawell-researchedandpersonalaccountofhow
businessinChinaisconductedwithalotofsubterfugeandplentyofhead-
aches.TheauthorisJamesMcGregor,whohaslivedinChinaformorethan
2decadesandwasbureauchiefforTheWallStreetJournalduringthe
TiananmenMassacre,chiefexecutiveofDowJonesthroughthe90s,anda
venturecapitalistduringChinasdot.comboom.Anexcellentautobiogra-
phythatgivesaninsightfulperspectiveonmodernChinaisPeterHesslers
RiverTown(Harper,2001).ThebookdocumentsHesslerstwo-yearPeace
CorpsstintasacollegeteacherinruralChina.Hesslerwentontobecome
thecorrespondentforTheNewYorkerinBeijing.HisencountersinChina
14_630068-bother01.indd1759/25/1012:28AM
176
T
h
e
S
a
v
v
y
T
r
a
v
e
l
e
r
arefurtherdocumentedinhissecondbook,OracleBones:AJourney
BetweenChinasPastandPresent(Harper,2006).Thisbookisalsoan
excellentread,withwell-researchedhistoricalstoriesofvariousChinese
scholarsandeverydaypeoplethrowninforgoodmeasure.Theauthorof
thisbook,JenLin-Liu,haspublishedamemoirofherexperienceslearning
howtocookinChina,calledServethePeople:AStir-FriedJourneyThrough
China.OtherexcellentbooksincludeMichaelMeyersTheLastDaysof
OldBeijingandLeslieChangsFactoryGirls.
ChrisEldersOldPeking:CityoftheRuleroftheWorld(OxfordUniver-
sityPress,1997)isacompendiumofcommentsonthecityfromawide
rangeofliteraryandhistoricalsources,sortedbytopic.Forthoseintenton
diggingoutthelastremainsofthecapitalsancientarchitecture,Susan
NaquinsmagisterialPekingTemplesandCityLife,14001900(University
ofCaliforniaPress,2000)givesascholarlyyetreadablebackgroundto
manybuildingsnowopentothepublicandmanynowlongvanished.Fran-
cesWoodsForbiddenCity(BritishMuseumPress,2005)isashortand
thoroughlyentertainingintroductiontoBeijingsmainattraction.
Toll-FreeNumbers&Websites
Airlines
AIRCANADA
y
888/247-2262inNorth
America
y
010/6468-2001inChina
www.aircanada.com
AIRCHINA
y
010/6466-1697inChina
www.airchina.com.cn
AIRFRANCE
y
800/237-2747intheU.S.
y
4008/808-808inChina
www.airfrance.com
AIRMACAU
y
010/6515-9398inChina
http://bj.airmacau.com.cn
ALLNIPPONAIRWAYS
y
800/235-9262inNorth
America
y
010/6590-9177inChina
www.anaskyweb.com/us/e
BANGKOKAIRWAYS
y
866/BANGKOKin
NorthAmerica
y
010/6430-1517inChina
www.bangkokair.com
BRITISHAIRWAYS
y
0870/850-9850inthe
U.K.
y
400/650-0073inChina
www.britishairways.com
CATHAYPACIFIC
y
800/233-2742intheU.S.
y
010/800852-1888in
China
www.cathaypacific.com
CONTINENTALAIRLINES
y
800/523-3273inthe
U.S.&Mexico
y
010/8527-6696inChina
www.continental.com
DRAGONAIRLINES
y
010/6518-2533inChina
www.dragonair.com
JAPANAIRLINES
y
800/525-3663inNorth
America
y
400/888-0808inChina
www.jal.com
KLMROYALDUTCH
AIRLINES
SeeNorthwestAirlines.
KOREANAIR
y
800/438-5000inNorth
America
y
010/8453-8421inChina
www.koreanair.com
LUFTHANSA
y
800/399-5838intheU.S.
y
010/6468-8838inChina
www.lufthansa.com
MALAYSIAAIRLINES
y
010/6505-2681inChina
www.malaysiaairlines.com
NORTHWESTAIRLINES
y
800/225-2525intheU.S.
y
400/814-0081inChina
www.nwa.com
QANTASAIRLINES
y
(02)9691-3636in
Australia
y
010/6567-9006inChina
www.qantas.com
SCANDINAVIANAIRLINES
y
800/221-2350intheU.S.
y
010/8527-6100inChina
www.flysas.com
THAIAIRWAYS
INTERNATIONAL
y
010/8515-0088inChina
www.thaiair.com
UNITEDAIRLINES
y
800/864-8331intheU.S.
y
010/8468-6666inChina
www.united.com
14_630068-bother01.indd1769/25/1012:28AM
177
I
n
d
e
x
Index
SeealsoAccommoda-
tionsandRestaurant
indexes,below.
A
Accommodations,114130.
SeealsoAccommodations
Index
best,114
Chengde,143
choosingahotel,122
countrysidegetaways,
128
Acrobats,107
AirportHouse,134
Airportshuttlebuses,152
Airtravel,152
toll-freenumbersand
websites,176
Alfa,94
AltartotheCentury(Zhong-
huaShijiTan),18
AmanResort,16
AmantaraSpa,135
AmericanEmbassy,former,
31
AmericanExpress,emer-
gencynumber,158
AncientBellMuseum(Gu
ZhongBowuguan),17
AncientCityWall(Pingyao),
147148
Andreu,Paul,29
Antiques,57
Apartmentrentals,154
Apothecary,94
AprilGourmet,62
Arrail,156
ArrowTower(JianLou),30
Artandartgalleries,3
contemporary,2123,
57
ArtofShirts,44
Artsandcrafts,shopping
for,58
Artsandentertainment,
104112
acrobats,107
best,106
bookevents,107108
classicalmusic,
108109
currentlistings,107
danceperformances,
109110
discounttickets,106
KungFushows,111
ATMs(cashpoints),154
Australia
embassy,156
touristofficesin,150
AwakenedLifeTemple
(JueshengSi),1718
B
BackLake(Houhai),3941
BadalingsectionoftheGreat
Wall,137
BadalingStarbucks,135
BaiChuanTong(Pingyao),
145146
BaiNaoHui,58
BallHouse,101102
BambooWallHouse,134
Bankinghours,154
BannermanTangsToysand
Crafts,68
BarBlu,97
Bargaining,64
Bars,9497
wine,102
Bed,94
BeihaiPark(Beihai
Gongyuan),4,1112
BeijingCentralArtGallery&
CulturalVillage,58
BeijingCommuneGallery,22
TheBeijingDanceAcademy,
109
TheBeijinger,107,156
BeijingInternationalFestival
Chorus,108
BeijingInternationalSOS
Clinic,58
BeijingModernDance
Company,109
BeijingMusicFestival,151
BeijingPeoplesArtTheatre,
112
BeijingPlanningExhibition
Hall,3536
BeijingPlayhouse,112
BeijingPopFestival,
150151
BeijingSymphonyOrchestra,
108
Beijing-TokyoArtProjects,
22
BeijingUnitedFamilyHospi-
tal,156,158
Bikerentals,154
Biking,4,2933,154
BishuShanzhuang(Chengde
MountainResort),
141142
BlackSesameKitchen,25
BlackSunBar,102
Bling,97
BlueFrog,9495
Bodhi,46
Bookevents,107108
Books,recommended,
174176
Bookstores,49,59
TheBookworm,59,107
BotaoHauteCouture,61
BoxerRebellion,9,45
Brahm,Laurence,27
Buddhism,13
Buses,154
Businesshours,154155
C
CafPause,23
CaishenMiao(Pingyao),146
Canada
embassy,156
CapitalMuseum,36
Carpets,58
Carrentals,155
Cashpoints(ATMs),154
CathayBookstore,49
Cellphones(mobilephones),
152
TheCentralAcademyof
Drama,112
CentralConservatoryof
Music,108
Centro,9697
(MaoZhuxiJinnianGuan
orTang),8,25
ChangchunYuan(Gardenof
EternalSpring),15
ChaoyangPark(Chaoyang
Gongyuan),26
ChaoyangTheatre,107
Charterhouse,59
Chengde,141143
ChengdeMountainResort
(BishuShanzhuang),
141142
ChengguangDian,11
ChenghuangMiao(Pingyao),
146
CherryLaneMovies,110
ChinaConservatoryof
Music,108109
ChinaFilmArchivesArt
Cinema,110
ChinaOpen,151
ChinaPost,158159
ChinaWorldTradeCenter
ShoppingMall(Guomao
Shangcheng),66
Chineselanguage,17,
164174
Chinesemedicineand
pharmacies,58
15_630068-bindex.indd1779/25/1012:29AM
178
I
n
d
e
x
G
GaobeidianAntiqueFurni-
tureVillage,63
GardenBooks,59,108
Gaysandlesbians,nightlife,
100
Giftsandsouvenirs,63
GlobalVillage(Diqiucun),17
GoldenElephant,158
GongmeiDasha,44,65
GooseandDuck,102
GoubuliBaoziDian,50
GreatHallofthePeople,27
TheGreatWall,3,133139
Greetingsandgestures,153
GuangHanTang,57
GuanghuaSi,4041
GuGong(ForbiddenCity),8
GuLou(DrumTower),12,41
GuomaoShangcheng(China
WorldTradeCenterShop-
pingMall),66
GuYenFan,67
GuZhongBowuguan
(AncientBellMuseum),17
H
HailongShoppingMall,59
HallofHappinessand
Longevity,16
HallofJewelry,9
HallofPrayerforGoodHar-
vests(QianDian),7,143
HalloftheWheelofLaw
(FalunDian),13
HammerRock(Qingchui
Feng;Chengde),142143
HappyValley(HuanLeGu),
26
HartCentreofArts,110
Healthconcerns,159
Healthinsurance,157
TheHerborist,44,63
HistoryofBeijing,160163
Holidays,157
HongKongShanghaiBankof
China(HSBC),former
buildingof,31
HongqiaoPearlMarket,65
HongQiaoShichang,68
HongSheng(TomLee),66
Hotels,114130.Seealso
AccommodationsIndex
best,114
Chengde,143
choosingahotel,122
128
Houhai(BackLake),3941
HouhaiLake,3
ice-skating,26
E
EastChurch(DongTang),45
EastShoreJazzClub,101
Eatinganddrinking.Seealso
Restaurants
etiquetteandcustoms,
153
TheEggShell(Jidanker),29
Electricity,156
Electronics,5859
Embassies,156
Emergencies,156
TheEmperorHotel,YinBar
at,4,89
Emperor(shop),44
EMSPostOffice,159
Enoteca,102
Esydragon,63
Etiquetteandcustoms,153
Eventlistings,156157
ExceptiondeMixmind,60
ExcuseCaf,12,41
F
Fabrics,67
FaceBar,9596
FalunDian(HalloftheWheel
ofLaw),13
Familieswithchildren,26
FamilyFusTeahouse,40
FangyuanXilu(Spin
Ceramics),68
Fashion(clothing),44,5962
Faurschou,57
FaurschouGallery,23
FedEx,159
FengYunMen,61
Festivalsandspecialevents,
150151
Films,110111
FineJewelers,64
FishNation,32
Foodmarkets,6263
Footmassages,4,46,135
ForbiddenCity(GuGong),
89
Moatofthe,32
ForeignLanguageBook-
store,45
ForestHouse,134
(ShiguanJie),31
FragrantHills(XiangShan
Gongyuan),1617
FrenchCultureCenter,110
FrenchEmbassy,old,31
FuqiangHutong,4647
FurenUniversity,former
campusof,39
ChineseNewYear,150
Chocolate,97
Cinemas,110111
CircularCity(Tuancheng),11
Cixi,Empress,9,16
Classicalmusic,108109
Climate,151
ClubFootball,102
Cocktailbars,9697
CocoBanana,98
CommuneattheGreatWall,
134135
ConfuciusTemple(Kong
Miao),13
Cookingschool,25
Creditcards,155
CulturalRevolution,25
CurioShops,49
Currencyandcurrency
exchange,155156
Customsandetiquette,153
Customsregulations,156
CycleChina,29,154
D
DachengDian,13
DaciZhenruBaoDian,11
Danceclubs,9799
Danceperformances,
109110
DaShilan,50
DavesCustomTailoring,67
DazhangLonghuaSi,40
DaZhongSi,17
Deal,5960
Decathalon,67
DedhunChoekyiNyima,13
Dentists,156
Destination,100
DHL,159
Dining,7086.Seealso
RestaurantsIndex
best,70
menuterms,168
Diqiucun(GlobalVillage),17
Discounttickets,106
DixiaCheng(Underground
City),27
Doctors,156
DongfangXintianDi(The
MallsatOrientalPlaza),66
DonghuaJiankangHuisuo
MassageCenter,46
DongjiaoMinxiangCatholic
Church,31
DongSiQingzhenSi(DongSi
Mosque),47
DongTang(EastChurch),45
Dragonfly,46
DrumandBell,95
DrumTower(GuLou),12,41
15_630068-bindex.indd1789/25/1012:29AM
179
I
n
d
e
x
Movies,110111
Mr.ZhangsCarpets,58
Museums
AncientBellMuseum
(GuZhongBowu-
guan),17
BaiChuanTong(Ping-
yao),145146
CapitalMuseum,36
GuZhongBowuguan
(AncientBell
Museum),17
Museum,43
ZhongguoMeishuguan
(NationalArtMuseum
ofChina),47
Museumsandexhibitions,
ThreeShadowsPhotogra-
phyArtCentre,57
Musicalinstruments,66
Mutianyusectionofthe
GreatWall,138139
N
Nanluoguxiang,25,32
NationalArtMuseumof
China(ZhongguoMeishu-
guan),47
TheNationalBalletofChina,
109110
NationalCentreforthePer-
formingArts,29,109
NeiLianShengXiedian,50
NewGetLuckyBar,98
NewSummerPalace(Yihe
Yuan),16
NewZealand,embassy,156
Nightlife,88102
bars,9497
best,88
covercharges,97
danceclubs,9798
gayandlesbian,100
karaoke(KTV),99,100
pubsandsportsbars,
101102
NineDragonScreen,9,11
NineGateSnacks(JiuMen
XiaoChi),33
TheNineTheatres(TNT),112
NingshouGongHuayuan,9
NoNameBar,95
O
OldSummerPalace(Yuan-
mingYuan),15
Opera,111
OrientalPlaza,44
OrientalPlazaCinema,111
TheLivingDanceStudio,109
Lodging,114130.Seealso
AccommodationsIndex
best,114
Chengde,143
choosingahotel,122
128
LongCorridor,16
LongfuSiJie,47
LongMarchSpace,22
Losingface,153
Lost&Found(shop),63
Lost-luggageinsurance,157
Lostproperty,158
LunaLounge,95
Lush,95
Lu12.28,60
M
Mailandpostage,158
MainPalace(ZengGong;
Chengde),141
Maliandao,67
MaLiLianFurniture,64
TheMallsatOrientalPlaza
(DongfangXintianDi),66
Mandarinlanguageguide,
164174
ManKaihui,23
MAOLivehouse,101
MaoZedong
ChairmanMaoMemo-
rialHall(MaoZhuxi
JinnianGuan),8,25
embalmingof,25
memorabilia,35
MaoZhuxiJinnianTang(or
Guan;ChairmanMao
MemorialHall),8,25
Marketsandbazaars,65
Massages,foot,4,46,135
MasterCard,emergency
number,158
Medicalinsurance,157
MeiLanfang,39
MeiLanfangGuju,39
MeiLanfangPekingOpera
Troupe,111
Melody,100
Metro(subway),7,154
MexicanEmbassyCultural
Office,111
MidiFestival,150
Mix,98
MiyunReservoir,139
Mobilephones(cellphones),
152
Moneymatters,158
MonumenttothePeoples
Heroes(RenminYixiong
Jinianbe),26
Housewaresandfurnishings,
6364
HuanghuaCheng,137138
HuangYue,61
HuanLeGu(HappyValley),
26
Hutongs(backalleys),4
I
Ice-skating,26
InstitutoCervantes,110
Insurance,157
Internetaccess,151,
157158
ItalianEmbassyCultural
Office,111
J
Jazz-Ya,95
Jewelry,6465
JiangjinjiuBar,101
JiankousectionoftheGreat
Wall,138
JianLou(ArrowTower),30
Jidanker(TheEggShell),29
Jinshanlingsectionofthe
GreatWall,138
JiuMenXiaoChi(NineGate
Snacks),33
JueshengSi(AwakenedLife
Temple),1718
Juyongguansectionofthe
GreatWall,133134
K
Karaoke(KTV),99,100
KingsDental,156
Kiteflying,3
KongMiao(Confucius
Temple),13
KTV(karaoke),99,100
KungFushows,111
L
TheLakeDistrict(Qianhai/
Houhai),1112
Lamaism(Tibetan
Buddhism),13
Lamas,13
LamaTemple(Yonghe-
gong),1213
Lan,95
Language,17,164174
LaoSheJinianguan,46
LaosheTeahouse,36
LeiLutai(Pingyao),147
LeshouTang,9
LiuHeTa(PagodaoftheSix
Harmonies;Chengde),141
Liulichang,4850
Livemusic,34,100101
15_630068-bindex.indd1799/25/1012:29AM
180
I
n
d
e
x
teaandteapots,6768
toys,68
Shoppingcentersandcom-
plexes,6667
SilkMarket(XiushuiJie),65
SilverIngotBridge(Yinding
Qiao),12,41
SimataisectionoftheGreat
Wall,139
SmallEatsStreet(Wangfu-
jingXiaochiJie),45
Smoking,159
SongQinglingsFormer
Residence,40
SongyunGe,49
SonyExploraScience,26
SOSInternationalClinic,156
SoukLounge,96
Spas,46,135
SpinCeramics(Fangyuan
Xilu),68
Sportinggoods,67
TheStarLive,101
Subway,7,154
SuitcaseHouse,134
SuzieWongs,9899
T
Tailors,67
Tango,99
Taxis,154
Teaandteapots,6768
Telephones,159160
TempleofEternalPeace
(YonganSi),11
TempleofHeaven(Tiantan
Gongyuan),7
TempleofUniversalJoy
(PuleSi;Chengde),143
TempleofUniversalPeace
(PuningSi;Chengde),142
10,000FlowersMaze
(WanhuaZhen),15
Theater,112
ThreeShadowsPhotography
ArtCentre,57
TiananmenSquare
(TiananmenGuangchang),
4,78
TianqiaoAcrobaticTheatre,
107
TiantanGongyuan(Temple
ofHeaven),7
TibetanJewelry&TeaBar,
41
Tickets,106,107,160
TimeOutBeijing,107,156
Timezone,160
Timezone8Bookstore,21
Tipping,160
TNT(TheNineTheatres),112
Toilets,160
TheRedTheatre,111
Restaurants,7086.Seealso
RestaurantsIndex
best,70
menuterms,168
RiShengChang(Pingyao),
145
RitanBeiLu(RitanPark),26
RitanPark(RitanBeiLu),26
RitanShangwuLou(Ritan
OfficeBuilding),6162
Ritz-Carltonspa,46
RongbaoZhai,49
Ruifuxiang,50,67
RussianEmbassy,31
S
TheSaddle,97
Safety,159
Salud,96
Sanfo,67
SanlitunVillage,66
SanlitunVillageCinema,111
SanyuanliMarket,6263
Scarlett,102
SculptinginTime,18
Seasons,150
798DashanziArtDistrict,21
798PhotoGallery,22
798Space,22
ShajingHutong,32
ShanghaiTang,60
ShanghaiXu,44,61
Shengxifu,4445,63
ShiguanJie(FormerLegation
Quarter),31
ShiLou(Pingyao),145
ShinKongPlace,6667
Shoes,5960
Shopping,4,5268
antiques,57
artandartgalleries,57
artsandcrafts,58
bargaining,64
bookstores,59
carpets,58
Chinesemedicineand
pharmacies,58
electronics,5859
fashion(clothing),
5962
foodmarkets,6263
giftsandsouvenirs,63
housewaresandfur-
nishings,6364
jewelry,6465
marketsandbazaars,
6566
musicalinstruments,66
shoes,5960
silk,fabricandtailors,67
sportinggoods,67
P
PagodaoftheSixHarmonies
(LiuHeTa;Chengde),141
PalaceViewBar,96
PaletteVino,102
PanchenLama,13
Panjiayuan,35
PanjiayuanJiuhuoShichang,
57,63,65
PassByBar,32
Passports,158
PavilionofLiteraryDelight
(WenjinGe;Chengde),141
ThePavillion,96
Pearls,68
PekinFineArts,57
Pekingduck,3
PekingUniversity(Beijing
DaxueorBeida),15
PenghaoTheater,112
PeonyPavilion,111
Pharmacies,158
Piao,160
Pingyao,145148
PlasteredT-ShirtShop,60
Police,158
Postoffices,158159
PotalaPalace(Putuozon-
gchengZhiMiao;
Chengde),142
PrinceGongsMansion,39
Propaganda,98
ProtectedSlogan,25
Pubsandsportsbars,
101102
PuleSi(TempleofUniversal
Joy;Chengde),143
PuningSi(TempleofUniver-
salPeace;Chengde),142
Punk,98
PutuozongchengZhiMiao
(PotalaPalace;Chengde),
142
Q
QBar,97
QianDian(HallofPrayerfor
GoodHarvests),7,143
Qianhai/Houhai(TheLake
District),1112
QianhaiLake,33
QianMen,30,50
QingchuiFeng(Hammer
Rock;Chengde),142143
R
RedBallFootballClub&Bar,
102
RedCapitalClub,27
RedGateGallery,57
Redmoon,97
RedPhoenix,61
15_630068-bindex.indd1809/25/1012:29AM
181
I
n
d
e
x
BeijingDowntownBackpack-
ersAccommodation,121
ChinaWorldHotel,121
CommuneattheGreatWall,
122,134135
ConfuciusInternational
YouthHostel,122
Courtyard7,122
DejuYuan(Pingyao),148
DrumTowerYouthHostel,
122123
DuGe,123124
TheEmperor,123
FairmontBeijing,123
FriendshipHotel,124
FriendshipYouthHostel,124
GrandHotel,Beijing,124
GrandHyatt,124
GuXiang20,124125
HansRoyalGardenHotel,
125
HejingFuBinguan,125
HotelG,125
KuntaiRoyalHotelBeijing,
125
LuSongYuan,126127
OppositeHouse,126
ParkHyatt,126
ThePeninsula,127
PuningSiShangketangDaji-
udian(Chengde),143
QomolangmaHotel,127
RafflesBeijing,127
RedCapitalRanch,127
RegentBeijing,127128
Ritz-CarltonBeijing,129
Ritz-CarltonFinancialStreet,
129
7DaysInn,129
Shangri-La,129130
ShengHuaDajiudian
(Chengde),143
SleepyInn,130
St.Regis,130
Swisstel,130
TianYuanKui,148
TheWestinBeijing
Chaoyang,130
TheWestinFinancialStreet,
130
Restaurants
Bei,76
Bellagio,76
BlackSesameKitchen,76
CapitalM,7677
Cepe,77
ChinaGrill,77
TheCourtyard,77
CrescentMoonMuslim
Restaurant,77
DaDong,77
WildDuckIsland,40
Winebars,102
Woo,60
Wudaokou,18
WuyutaiTeaShop,45,68
X
XiangShanGongyuan(Fra-
grantHills),1617
XianyaShu,146
XiaoFeiTailorandFabric
Shop,67
XinZhongGuoKidsStuff,68
Xiu,97
XiushuiJie(SilkMarket),65
Y
YandaiAlley,63
YandaiXieJie,41
YashowMarket(Yaxiu
FuzhuangShichang),66
YiheYuan(NewSummer
Palace),16
YinBaratTheEmperor
Hotel,4,89
YindingQiao(SilverIngot
Bridge),12,41
YingziDajieNightMarket
(Chengde),143
YinShu+EAWest,23,65
YonganSi(Templeof
EternalPeace),11
YuanmingYuan(OldSum-
merPalace),15
YugongYishan,101
Z
ZaojunMiao(Pingyao),146
ZaoyuangArtifactShop,58
ZengGong(MainPalace;
Chengde),141
ZhenFeiJing(Wellofthe
PearlConcubine),9
ZhengyangMen,30
ZhiyinWanliInstruments,66
ZhongguanCun,5859
ZhongguoMeishuguan
(NationalArtMuseumof
China),47
ZhongguoShudian(China
Bookstore),49
ZhonghuaShijiTan(Altarto
theCentury),18
ZhouEnlai,26
ZooMarket,62
Zub,99
Accommodations
AmanBeijing,120
TheAscott,120121
BambooGardenHotel,121
TomLee(HongSheng),66
TongrenTang,50,58
Torana,58
Touristoffices,150
TowerofBuddhist
Fragrance,16
TowerofTenThousandHap-
piness(WanfuGe),13
Toys,68
Traintravel,152
Transportation,154
TravelingtoBeijing,152
TheTree,97
Trip-cancellationinsurance,
157
Tsongkapa,13
Tuancheng(CircularCity),11
U
UllensCenterforContempo-
raryArt,22
UndergroundCity(Dixia
Cheng),27
UnitedKingdom
embassy,156
UnitedStates
embassy,156
UnrestoredGreatWall,135
V
Vics,99
Visa(creditcard),emer-
gencynumber,158
Visarequirements,152
W
WandaCinema,111
WanfuGe(TowerofTen
ThousandHappiness),13
Wangfujing,4247
WangfujingForeignLan-
guagesBookstore,59
WangfujingNightMarket,83
Museum,43
WangfujingXiaochiJie(Small
EatsStreet),45
WangjingTa,139
WanhuaZhen(10,000
FlowersMaze),15
Weather,151
Websites,useful,151
Weiminghu(WeimingLake),
15
WellofthePearlConcubine
(ZhenFeiJing),9
WenjinGe(PavilionofLiter-
aryDelight;Chengde),141
WhiteRabbit,99
15_630068-bindex.indd1819/25/1012:29AM
182
P
h
o
t
o
C
r
e
d
i
t
sSource,84
SouthSilkRoad,84
Sureo,84
TajPavilion,84
ThreeGuizhouMen,8485
TheTree,85
VineyardCaf,85
XianrLaoMan,85
XiaoWangFu,85
XinjiangIslamRestaurant,
8586
Yotsuba,86
YueLu,86
YuntengBinguan,86
LeiGarden,8081
LiJiaCai,81
Luce,81
MaisonBoulud,81
Mare,81
Mosto,8182
MyHumbleHouse,82
NoNameRestaurant,82
NoodleLoft,82
Nuage,82
TheOrchard,83
PureLotus,83
ShuangFu,8384
SichuanProvincial
Restaurant,84
DaliCourtyard,78
DejuYuan(Pingyao),147
DingDingXiang,78
DinTaiFung,78
ElementFresh,78
FeitengYuxiang,79
GreenT.House,79
HanCang,79
Hatsune,79
HuajiaYiyuan,79
HutongPizza,7980
KaraiyaSpiceHouse,80
KongYiJi,80
Lan,80
LeGalerie,80
PhotoCredits
pviii:AndrewMcConnell/Alamy;p3,top:joSon/GettyImages;p3,bottom:Craig
Simons/ChinaStockhouse;p4:LouLinwei/AlamyImages;p5:JohnHenshall/Alamy;
p7:JimZuckerman/Alamy;p8,top:EdFreeman/GettyImages;p8,bottom:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p9:PeterAdams/AGEFotostock;p11:AntonioDAlbore/AGE
Fotostock;p12,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p12,bottom:KevinFoy/Alamy;
p13:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p15:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p16,top:
ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p16,bottom:JohnHenshall/Alamy;p17:HaraldSund/
GettyImages;p18,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p18,bottom:DavidRobinson/
Snap2000Images/Alamy;p19:MarcoSecchi/Alamy;p21,top:ChrisJ.Stanley
Photography;p21,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p22,top:ChrisJ.Stanley
Photography;p22,bottom:CraigSimons/ChinaStockhouse;p23,top:CraigSimons/
ChinaStockhouse;p23,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p27:ChrisJ.Stanley
Photography;p29:DennisCox/Alamy;p30:SteveVidler/SuperStock;p32:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p33,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p33,bottom:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p35:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p36:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotog-
raphy;p37:WendyConnett/Alamy;p39,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p39,bot-
tom:TiborBognar/Alamy;p40,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p40,bottom:
ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p41,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p41,bottom:
CraigSimons/ChinaStockhouse;p43,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p43,bottom:
ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p45,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p45,bottom:
ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p46:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p47,top:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p47,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p49:ChrisJ.Stanley
Photography;p50:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p51:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;
p52:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p57:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p59:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p60:CraigSimons/ChinaStockhouse;p61:CraigSimons/China-
Stockhouse;p62,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p62,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPho-
tography;p63:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p65,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;
p65,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p66:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p67:
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StanleyPhotography;p70:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p76,top:ChrisJ.Stanley
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Stockhouse;p78,top:CourtesyCapitalM;p78,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;
p79:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p80:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p81:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p82,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p82,bottom:Craig
Simons/ChinaStockhouse;p83:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p84:ChrisJ.Stanley
Photography;p85:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p84,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotogra-
phy;p86,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p86,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotogra-
phy;p87:LouLinwei/Alamy;p88:GideonMendel/Corbis;p95:CraigSimons/
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Corbis;p100:CraigSimons/ChinaStockhouse;p101:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;
p102:LuisCastaeda/AGEFotostock;p103:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p107:
ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p108:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p109:FuZhong-
qing/PanoramaMedia(Beijing)Ltd./Alamy;p110:YuanMan/XinhuaPress/Corbis;p111:
ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p112:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p113:ChrisJ.
15_630068-bindex.indd1829/25/1012:29AM
183
P
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o
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C
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e
d
i
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s
StanleyPhotography;p114:CourtesyCommunebytheGreatWall;p121,top:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p121,bottom:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p123,top:ChrisJ.
StanleyPhotography;p123,bottom:CourtesyFairmontBeijing;p124:CourtesyGrand
HyattBeijing;p125:CraigSimons/ChinaStockhouse;p126,top:ChrisJ.Stanley
Photography;p126,bottom:CourtesyoftheParkHyattBeijing;p127:ChrisJ.Stanley
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p130:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p131:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p133:
KerenSu/Corbis;p134:CourtesyCommunebytheGreatWall;p135,top:ChrisJ.
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Xiaodong/XinhuaPress/Corbis;p138:KerenSu/ChinaSpan/GettyImages;p139,top:
Dbimages/Alamy;p139,bottom:TinaManley/Animals/Alamy;p141:TiborBognar/
Alamy;p142,top:ChrisJ.StanleyPhotography;p142,bottom:GeoffreyMorgan/
Alamy;p143:TiborBognar/Alamy;p145:KrzysztofDydynski/LonelyPlanetImages;
p146,top:KrzysztofDydynski/LonelyPlanetImages;p146,bottom:KrzysztofDydynski/
LonelyPlanetImages;p147,top:LiuXiaoyang/Alamy;p147,bottom:BruceBi/AGE
Fotostock;p148:KevinOHara/AGEFotostock;p149:DennisCox/Time&LifePictures/
GettyImages
15_630068-bindex.indd1839/25/1012:29AM
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100F
50F
60F
70F
80F
90F
40F
32F
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ToconvertFtoC:
subtract32andmultiply
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9(.555)
ToconvertCtoF:
multiplyby1.8
andadd32
40C
30C
20C
10C
-18C
0C
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-30C
32F=0C
Toconvert.....................
Inchestocentimeters...................
Centimeterstoinches....................
Feettometers................................
Meterstofeet..............................
Yardstometers..............................
Meterstoyards.............................
Milestokilometers.......................
Kilometerstomiles........................
multiplyby
2.54
.39
.30
3.28
.91
1.09
1.61
.62
1mile=1.6km
1km=.62mile
1ft.=.30m
1m=3.3ft.
1ounce=28grams
1pound=.4555kilogram
Toconvert.....................
Ouncestograms........................
Gramstoounces..........................
Poundstokilograms......................
Kilogramstopounds...................
multiplyby
28.35
.035
.45
2.20
1gram=.04ounce
1kilogram=2.2pounds
multiplyby
3.8
.26
.83
1.20
4.55
.22
Toconvert.....................
U.S.gallonstoliters.......................
LiterstoU.S.gallons......................
U.S.gallonstoimperialgallons....
ImperialgallonstoU.S.gallons...
Imperialgallonstoliters..............
Literstoimperialgallons...............
1liter=.26U.S.gallon
1U.S.gallon=3.8liters
FoldFold
time-efficientway.
with
foldout
map
dayBYday
with
foldout
map
Beijing
US$13.99CAN$16.99UK8.99
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