G.I.P.

A division of ASFO-GRASSE
48, avenue Riou Blanquet BP 21017 06131 GRASSE Cedex FRANCE
Tel. 33 4 92 42 34 90 Fax 33 4 92 42 34 95 Email : gip@prodarom.fr







D DE ET TA AI I L LE ED D T TR RA AI I N NI I N NG G P PR RO OG GR RA AM MM ME E
F FO OR R S ST TU UD DE EN NT T P PE ER RF FU UM ME ER RS S

G.I .P. DETAI LED TRAI NI NG PROGRAMME FOR STUDENT PERFUMERS 2/6
G.I.P. A division of ASFO-GRASSE
48, avenue Riou Blanquet BP 21017 06131 GRASSE Cedex FRANCE
Tel. 33 4 92 42 34 90 Fax 33 4 92 42 34 95 Email : gip@prodarom.fr
D DE ET TA AI I L LE ED D T TR RA AI I N NI I N NG G P PR RO OG GR RA AM MM ME E
F FO OR R S ST TU UD DE EN NT T P PE ER RF FU UM ME ER RS S
1. Some general features
1.1. The history of perfumery
Antiquity (graeco-roman world).
The Middle Ages and the Arab world.
The Renaissance and the emergence of perfumery at Grasse.
Perfumery at the Royal Court.
From the French revolution to present day : the impact of the industrial revolution on the
perfume industry.

1.2. The chemistry of perfume
Some basic chemical knowledge to provide a better understanding of the structure of
molecules possessing a sensory power. The volatility and solubility of sensory molecules.

1.3. The sense of smell
The biology and physiology of olfaction and the perception of smells.

1.4. Vocabulary of perfume
Olfactory concepts.
Technical vocabulary.

2. An apprenticeship in raw materials and olfaction
2.1. Natural raw materials
The study of the main groups of raw materials :
Essential oils,
Expressed oils,
Concretes,
Absolutes,
Resins,
Tinctures,
Infusions.
G.I .P. DETAI LED TRAI NI NG PROGRAMME FOR STUDENT PERFUMERS 3/6

G.I.P. A division of ASFO-GRASSE
48, avenue Riou Blanquet BP 21017 06131 GRASSE Cedex FRANCE
Tel. 33 4 92 42 34 90 Fax 33 4 92 42 34 95 Email : gip@prodarom.fr

Each natural raw material will be examined as follows :
Methods of production.
Place of production, poundage and price.
Physical and chemical characteristics.
Main constituents.
Olfactory characteristics.
Use.
Regulations.

Olfaction sessions for each raw material and comparative study by origin and variety.
The olfactory study of the main constituents of each raw material.
Demonstration videos.
Practical extraction work in the laboratory.

The main olfactory groups studied (representing approximately 150 natural raw materials).

Citrus : bergamo, lime , mandarin, orange, grapefruit, lemon, neroli, petitgrain
Rustic : spike, lavender, lavandin, rosewood, rosemary, sage
Wooded : amyris, cedar wood, guaiacwood, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver
Camphoraceous : thyme, rosemary, eucalyptus, armoise, angelica, myrtle
Spicy : bay ,cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, cardamom
Aniseed : anise, star anise, basil, tarragon, fennel, dill
Rose : roses, geraniums
Jasmine : jasmine, ylang-ylang
Amber : amber, cistus, cypress, ambrette seed
Earthy : oak and tree muss, liquorice
Animal : musk, civet, castoreum
Vanilla : vanilla, benzoin, Peru balsam
Hay : tonka bean, celery, cut hay

2.2. Synthetic raw materials
Study of the main categories :
Isolates
Semi-synthetic products
Synthetic products

The main manufacturing techniques.

Each synthetic raw material will be examined as follows :
Methods of production.
Place of production, volume and price.
Physical and chemical characteristics.
Olfactory characteristics.
Use.
Regulations.
G.I .P. DETAI LED TRAI NI NG PROGRAMME FOR STUDENT PERFUMERS 4/6
G.I.P. A division of ASFO-GRASSE
48, avenue Riou Blanquet BP 21017 06131 GRASSE Cedex FRANCE
Tel. 33 4 92 42 34 90 Fax 33 4 92 42 34 95 Email : gip@prodarom.fr

Olfaction sessions for each raw material and comparative study.

The study of approximately 300 synthetic raw materials including :

Semi-synthetic : cedryle acetate, vetiveryl acetate, heliotropine, hydroxycitronnellal,
ionones and methylionones, carvone, terpineol, isobornyle acetate.
Synthetic : musk ketone, musk xylene, cinnamic alcohol, benzyl alcohol, benzoic
aldehyde, cinnamic aldehyde, amylcinnamic aldehyde, hexylcinnamic aldehyde,
aldehyde C
16
, cuminic aldehyde, phenylacetic aldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,
diphenylmethane, polycyclic musks, acetophenone, benzophenone, styrallyl acetate,
coumarin, anethol, anisic aldehyde, amyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, eugenol,
vanillin, ethyl-vanillin, iso-eugenol, eugenyl acetate, coumarin, thymol, nitromusks,
menthol, menthone, anisic aldehyde, anisic alcohol, anisic esters, methyl anthranilate,
methyl-N methyl anthranilate, methylnaphtylketone, heterocyclic musks.
Schiff bases
3. Accords
'Accord : the effect obtained by combining two or more perfume notes. An accord sometimes
portrays a scent which bears no relation to the raw materials used in its making'.

3.1. Olfactory recognition
By successive stages, the student perfumer should be capable of recognising the raw materials
present in more and more complex accords.

3.2. Creating accords
An apprenticeship in creating 'classic' accords : rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, carnation
towards the creation of 'original' accords.

3.3. The Structure of a perfume
From the better known perfumes, the student perfumer should be capable of drawing up a
balanced framework for different suggested fragrances. Then to attempt to improve this
framework by adding new raw materials in order to strive for new interesting olfactory
structures.

3.4. Study of the main olfactory groups and sub-groups and the leading perfumes
(genealogy) :
Citrus,
Green,
Water,
Floral,
Soft floral,
Floral oriental,
G.I .P. DETAI LED TRAI NI NG PROGRAMME FOR STUDENT PERFUMERS 5/6
G.I.P. A division of ASFO-GRASSE
48, avenue Riou Blanquet BP 21017 06131 GRASSE Cedex FRANCE
Tel. 33 4 92 42 34 90 Fax 33 4 92 42 34 95 Email : gip@prodarom.fr
Oriental,
Woody oriental,
Mossy woods,
Dry woods,
Aromatic.

4. Creation
4.1. The creation process of present day perfumes
4.2. The creation by olfactory imitation
4.3. The tools used to analyse the constituents of perfume
Gas chromatography and mass spectrometry : their strengths and weaknesses.
4.4. Creation

5. The application within functional perfumery
Shower gels.
Shampoos.
Deodorants.
Anti-perspirant deodorant sticks.
Soaps.
Candles.
Potpourris and air fresheners.

6. Miscellaneous
6.1. Perfume and cosmetic legislation
The study of regulations : their establishment : security, toxicity and their consequences
The role of the professional organisations and their relationship with the authorities :
- National associations : Prodarom, BFA, VRDH, FMA, JFFMA
- European association : European flavour and Fragrance Association (EFFA)
- International association : International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
- The role of the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM).
Community regulations :
- 'dangerous substances' Directive
- 'dangerous preparations' Directive
- 'safety data sheets' Directive
- 'cosmetics' Directive
National regulations.
Self regulation : the IFRA Code of Practice.
Individual constraints : customer demands.

G.I .P. DETAI LED TRAI NI NG PROGRAMME FOR STUDENT PERFUMERS 6/6
G.I.P. A division of ASFO-GRASSE
48, avenue Riou Blanquet BP 21017 06131 GRASSE Cedex FRANCE
Tel. 33 4 92 42 34 90 Fax 33 4 92 42 34 95 Email : gip@prodarom.fr
6.2. The marketing of perfumery
Communication techniques.
Sales techniques.
Internal and external communication tools.
Merchandising.

6.3. Site visits
Visits to perfume plant producers (Rose centifolia, Grasse jasmine, mimosa, lavender,
lavandin).
Visits to factory workshops producing raw materials and fragrance compounds.
Visits to R & D laboratories and quality control departments.


G.I.P A division of ASFO GRASSE
Villa Margherite 48, Avenue Riou Blanquet 06130 GRASSE
04 92 42 34 90 Fax 04 92 42 34 95 mail : asfo@prodarom.fr
Adresse postale B.P 21017 06131 GRASSE CEDEX





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R RE EG GI I S ST TR RA AT TI I O ON N F FO OR RM M


G.I.P A division of ASFO GRASSE
Villa Margherite 48, Avenue Riou Blanquet 06130 GRASSE
04 92 42 34 90 Fax 04 92 42 34 95 mail : asfo@prodarom.fr
Adresse postale B.P 21017 06131 GRASSE CEDEX
R RE EG GI I S ST TR RA AT TI I O ON N C CO ON ND DI I T TI I O ON NS S

1. REGI STRATI ON FORM
Those wishing to apply for a place at G.I.P must return the registration form completed in full by 31
th
July 2014 at the
latest. There is a registration fee of 100 to cover the cost of recruitment. This sum must be enclosed with the
registration form, resume and motivation letter (payable to ASFO-GRASSE).

Any form not accompanied by the payment cannot be considered.

2. REGI STRATI ON
The number of available places at G.I.P is limited to 12 persons. The selection process will take place in Grasse from
March 2014 to End August 2014. Under certain conditions, the selection process could take place in the country of
origin (consult us). All the applications will be studied but only the files of the candidates which complied with the
selections criteria of the school will be received for the interview.

The recruitment process consists of five parts. Candidates will be expected to undergo:
an examination on the command of the English language (written and oral) lasting 30 minutes. Coefficient 1
a mathematics examination lasting 30 minutes. Coefficient 2
an evaluation of artistic and creative competence lasting 60 minutes. Coefficient 3
a test of olfactory recognition lasting 20 minutes. Coefficient 4
a 20 minutes interview with a panel of professionals and lecturers to assess the candidate's motivation and
professional plans for the future. Coefficient 5

The twelve candidates with the best results will be admitted into G.I.P. and the five next best candidates will be put on
the waiting list.

3. COST OF THE COURSE
The cost of the course is 12 000 for nine months training. Those successful candidates who will enrol on the course
must settle a third of this sum (4800 ) by 31
st
January 2015 at the latest. The remainder must be paid in two
settlements: 3600 on 30
th
April 2015 and 3600 on 31
st
August 2015.

4. THE TRAI NI NG SCHEDULE
The training course will be split into two parts : from Monday 19
th
January 2015 to Friday 26
th
June 2015 and from
Tuesday 1
st
September 2015 to Friday 18
th
December 2015.

The working week will consist of 4.5 days (35 hours).
from Monday to Thursday : 8.30 am - 12.30 pm / 1.30 pm - 5.00 pm.
Friday : 8.30 am - 12.30 pm.

These times may be modified, particularly during visits to producers and factories.

5. ACCOMMODATI ON AND CATERI NG
Accommodation or catering are the responsibility of the applicant. Two drinks vending machines (hot and cold) will be
available to them as well as a room equipped with two micro-wave ovens.

A list of furnished accommodation in Grasse will be provided if required.