GARMENT SAMPLING

Garment sampling is very much important process. It is a model

of what the bulk production is going to be done. The sampling is quite
difficult but it will make the buyers to get attractiveness towards the
industry. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are
satisfied with the quality of the samples. Garment sampling is a very
important task in an apparel manufacturing because it gives the satisfaction
of the customer with respect to the product being manufactured. This is in
turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this puts
the following at risk:

i. Placement of the order
ii. Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments
produced.

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as
the merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding
samples and other requirements, this sampling department will work under
the guidance Also as the samples are to be made according to the buyers
price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise
Purpose of Sampling:
To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the
manufacturer.
To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and
develop cost quotations.

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer
has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the
details of both, what the buyer has demanded and what the supplier
fabric/trim etc they have used.
Ref no.
Color
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no/ Size
Store
Sampling Process
The process of sample department varies continuously, and
the development process will covers a wide range of unique products from
new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns, fabric structures ,finishes and surface
effects new technology and all types of made up products such as woven ,
knit wear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical
and medical products.
There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers
the development of the initial concept or design idea and getting the
approval by the customer.
The second phase covers the process after getting acceptance of
the first prototype sample and carry out the functions of sourcing and
ordering component, testing the product and carry out trails once the
finalized sample specifications has been drawn up.

The third and final phase includes a range of activities that are
carried out before large scale or bulk production capacity outside the
producer/developers if this is needed.

SAMPLING TYPES
We have to send many samples to buyers. They are
Proto samples or fit samples
Photo shoot samples
Salesmen samples or promotional samples
Size set samples
Pre-production samples
Online sample
Shipment sample
Counter samples or reference samples

PROTO SAMPLES OR FIT SAMPLES
These samples are done after getting the new order from the
buyer. These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit.
So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual
measurements and specifications given from the buyer.
Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the
photos of garments on packing box, hang tag, in showrooms,etc.,.
After sending the proto samples the buyers will conduct
discussion over the samples and they will access the content of the sample
and give us comment and reviews.
PHOTOSHOOT SAMPLE
In this category which deals mainly with the real
fitting on garments.The buyers will conduct photoshoot sessions with the
samples we have sent. By this we can clearly get the fitting requirements and
problems in the measurements.By doing this buyers can give us comments
with the photo attachments.



SALESMAN SAMPLE
The buyer needs these samples for getting the orders
from their customers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the
buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style.
The salesmen will book the orders from their customers,
by showing these samples. Buyer will place the order to us according to
customer attractness towards the sample.
Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and
accessories. Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer
SIZESET SAMPLES
These sample are done after the salesman sample.In SMS we
will sent samples in one size only.Hence sizeset samples are are done to
check the grading of all sizes are ok and the measurements are quite good.
COUNTER SAMPLE OR REFERENCE SAMPLE
These are the sample which are made as same as the other
samples.We will sent samples to the buyer and keep one of the same sample
for our reference.By getting acceptance from the buyer we can proceed the
work according to the reference sample we have with us.

PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES


These samples are almost like approval samples. They
have to be made in actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They
will represent that the production will be like these samples.
These samples are to be sent before starting the actual
production. Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners.
Buyer may check these samples for everything or anything. Some times,
they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark or comment. We
have to get only OK from the buyer.

Online sample:
Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the
middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP
sample. All buyers does not asked for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-
check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not


SHIPMENT SAMPLES


These samples are to be sent just before shipment. They
should be sent in actual packing with all labels, tags, etc. (Generally these
samples will not be tested by buyer for anything). And even if we get some
comments from buyers like changes in price tag or changes in the
assortments we can adopt the changes in the process but its not the risk for
the supplier.




Posted 24th April 2013 by VIGNESH S
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Broadly garment samples are categorized as development samples and production
samples. Samples that is made in development stage are as following -
1. Proto Sample
2. FIT sample
3. Salesman Sample/Photo shot Sample
4. Size set Sample
5. Pre-production Sample
In production stage factory need to submit few more samples
that includes
1. Top of Production Sample
2. Shipment Sample


Source:
hellotrade.com

1. Proto Sample: This samples are proto type of new design created by designers.
This is the first sample in product development stage. Proto sample is made to
communicate the design of a style or a line or to present garment structure. In proto
samples fit and fabric detailing is not been considered.

2. FIT Sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual
measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment.
FIT is one of the most important factor to be considered during sample
development. FIT sample is being tested on live model or Dress form for to verify
garment fit and fall.

3. Salesman Sample: Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail
showroom. Salesman sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's
feedback and according to customers response buyers forecast demand of an
particular style. Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and
accessories. Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer.

4. Size set Sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in
different sizes. In this stage factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally,
buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL. Buyer check size set
sample and give feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.

5. Pre-production Sample: All the above samples are made in sampling
department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual
production line, so that operators know what are they going to make. This sample
is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors.
PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical
persons) prior to proceeding actual production.

6. Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few
pieces is taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to
buyer as TOP sample. All buyers does not asked for TOP sample. Purpose is to
cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.

7. Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3
finished and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference.
Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants and buyer's merchant. The approved
shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get
garment out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future
reference

Introduction:
Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the
order once satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial and most important stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling
department makes samples on the basis of the specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined as "The concept, perception and
ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in systematic stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a development." Though
sampling is a difficult and time bound process, it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer wants to
know whether the factory is capable of producing the styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples decide the ability of exporters to deal with any given
style of garment. The buyer accesses the capability of exporter only with the help of Samples. If the samples are of good quality naturally the buyers will be willing to
place the order to factory. Sampling also work as a bridge between the productions and marketing department, hence it has the influence of both marketing as well as
production department. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and should be manufactured with optimum quality.
Different types of samples:
Sampling process varies from buyer to buyer, and type of style as well, but in industry there is particular order of sampling is followed, the stages and purpose of
sample may be same but terminology used may be different and it totally depend upon buyer. The typical samples namely described as:
1. Design development
2. Proto sample
3. Fit sample
4. Ad or photo shoot sample
5. Sales man sample
6. Pre- production sample
7. GPT sample
8. Size set sample
9. TOP sample
10. Wash sample
11. Shipment sample
These samples are sent to the buyer one after another for approval from the buyer and to proceed further. Apart from these usual steps, sometimes the buyer suggests
some changes in the prepared sample, and then incorporating those suggestions makes a counter sample andin it is sent to the buyer for approval. The sampling
department helps the merchandising department for finding out fabric consumption per unit garment and thereby helps in the costing of garment.

Briefs on different samples:
1. Design development:
o This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
o Design development is either done by buyer or factory
o The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
2. Proto sample:
o Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based on proto sample only.
o Normally, buyer send proto sample request to 2-3 factories.
o nThe factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will get confirmation from buyer.
o Proto sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not available.
o Substitute Trims can be used on proto.
o As proto sample is given first time to the factory to buyer, so to develop the proto sample buyer need to provide necessary information along with the
proto request. These are: Specification Sheet (Tech Pack), Bill of Material, Development sample (optional), Paper patterns (optional), Sample of novelty
trims, Sample of fabric yardage (it may be send by buyer or asked to develop), Details of Print or Embroidery, if any.
o Generally proto request is responded within the 7-10 days by merchandiser.
o Factory need to submit at least 4 proto samples (quantity may change buyer to buyer)
o If buyer does not approve the proto sample, factory needs to submit the 2nd proto sample to get approval.
o Once proto get approved buyer asks to start working on fit sample.
3. Fit sample
o Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of construction details.
At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory understands thoroughly the construction and quality details and standards The sample sent mostly in medium
and large sizes mentioned by the buyer.
o The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.
4. Ad or photo shoot sample:
o In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for AD sample for photo shoot.
o Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
o This sample mainly sends in medium to large or sizes specified by buyer.
5. Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample:
o The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
o In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
o This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
o The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence merchandiser should aware and make sure that product development team is well
aware about the sample quality parameters.
o The cost of sample production is given by buyer or sometimes buyer may give 150% of FOB.
6. Size set sample:
o The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the sample in all sizes.
o The size set sample should be made in the actual fabric and trims.
o The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual production floor, as required by the buyer.
o Bulk cutting of fabric for production should start only after size-set sample get approved.
o Normally, 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
o If sizes are more in number then buyer may ask to skip some sizes, called jump size set sample.
7. GPT sample (Garment Performance Test):
o The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment.
o The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
o Garments for GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample.
o Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as buyer.
o If same style is having 3-4 different colours then only one color sample is tested completely and other colours samples are tested only with colour way
test i.e. only colour fastness tests are conducted.
8. Pre- production sample: (PP sample)
o PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.
o It has to be made in original fabric and trims
o Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actuals.
o PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be identical to PP sample.
o The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of preproduction sample.
o PP sample sends in only one size 1-2 samples or specified by buyer.
9. Wash sample:
o Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence either
at size set stage or PP stage washing sample is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.
o If sample is not approved or approved with comments, factory needs to submit 2nd sample to get approval.
o After feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.
10. TOP sample (Top of Production):
o The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing line with suggestion of QA department.
o In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
o Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
o TOP sample also checked by the buyer for the packaging.
11. Shipment sample:
o Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual shipment and sent to buyer.
o The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
People involved in sampling:
Several people and departments are invloved in sampling process.They are: merchandising department, sampling/ product development team, trim and fabric store,
pattern making department, quality assurance team, dispatch department and etc.
Assessment of sample:
Buyer assesses the sample and gives the feed back within 5 - 7 days to factory with respect to sample. Feedback from the buyer is 3 types i.e. accepted, rejected, and
accepted with comments.
The rejection of sample may be due to following reasons: There could be one or more reasons for the sample rejection from buyer, these are: sample made out of
tolerance, incorrect construction, fabric quality may not up to mark, incorrect packaging, incorrect size submission, frequent change in style and more.
What buyer looks into sample?
following table presents necessary requirements from buyer:


Conclusion:
Sampling is the heart of any export order processing. The future of any style purely depends on buyer and factory which are adding value to the samples. So it is very
important to understand the sample development process to control quality and costs in the initial stage or in the sampling development. Merchandiser plays the
central role in sampling process as, the only person between the buyer and factory who understands the buyer specification, technical details and time line of
sampling. The process of sampling is about the eventual satisfaction of specific needs. It is about products the company can make or out-source profitably for which
there is a market demand. Sampling is the best way to place an order. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits
to the exporters. The use of technology, computer based designing, as well as innovation and creativitiy are important tools in driving apparel sampling