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COMING IN DESERT FOR 1985 AND BEYOND A PREVIEW

Many of our readers have asked what subjects we will be covering in upcoming issues. Here is a partial list of them.

DESERT visits the ARIZONA NORTHERN MINE, Dick Wick Hall's Glory Hole

SWANSEA, Ghost Town of the Buckskin Mountains

Recreation Unlimited: California's Owens Valley

Colorado River Subjects: Camping along and on the River, Lake Havasu City, Yuma, Glen Canyon, Steamboating
along the Colorado, Gold is Where you find it, Boulder Dam's 50th Birthday

Ghost Towns: San Bernardino County Ludlow, Providence


Riverside County Gold Park, "New" Dale, Eagle Mountain
Inyo County Cerro Gordo, Coso County
Arizona Silver King, Winchester, Humboldt, The Bradshaws
Utah Silver Reef, Irontown
Nevada Rhyolite, The Yellow Pine Mining District, Pioche
New Mexico, Colorado, Montana, Idaho, and the Mother Lode in Process

Creatures and Critters: Hummingbirds


The Desert Tortoise
Trap Door Spiders
Snakes Alive

Lost Mines and Buried Treasure Stories: The Lost Rhodes Mines
Quartz Crystal Hill Lost Mine
The Silenta Senora Mine
The Lost Horse Mine Hoard

Exploring Ghost Railroads of the West: The Virginia & Truckee Railroad
Carson and Colorado Railroad
The Yellow Pine Railroad
Pioche and Bullionville
Arizona and Swansea

Desert Personalities, explorers, and pioneers: Wellwood Murray


Alfred Doten
Jacob Hamlin
William H. Prescott

Of Plants, Trees, and Growing Things: The Mesquite Tree


Palo Verde Trees
Fishhook Cactus
Cholla
The Joshua Tree

Of Parks and Places : Anza Borrego


Lehman Caves
Zion National Park
Coral Pink Sand Dunes
Laws Museum
Mesa Verde
Petrified Forest
Valley of Fire

Of Mines, Miners, and Rocks: Garnets


Copper Mining in Arizona
Apache Tears
Azurite
Gold Mining on the Mother Lode
D. W. GRANTHAM, Editor
M. BANDINI, Nevada Editor
P. RICHARDS, Circulation
L. GARNETT, Advertising
N. LONG, Secretary

VOLUME 49, No. 1


January - February 1985
ISSN 0194 - 3405

C O N E N T S
BARREL CACTUS IN DEATH VALLEY FRONT COVER Chuck Gebhardt
COMING IN DESERT FOR 1985 AND BEYOND 2 Desert Staff
WONDERS OF DEATH VALLEY 4 Chuck Gebhardt
IN AND AROUND UTAH'S DIXIE 8 DW Grantham & Paul Richards
DESERT VISITS WHITEWATER 15 DW Grantham
MOUNTAIN 0' TOPAZ 18 Desert Staff
THE CHUCKWALLA 20 B. Crampton
AN INTRODUCTION TO EXPLORING
GHOST RAILROADS 22 DW Grantham
THE LOST DUTCHMAN REVISITED 25 Dr. David Redd

iOST TOWNS OF SAN BERNARDINO COUNTY-


PART I - "OLD" IVANPAH 30 Michael Bandini

DICK WICK HALL 34 Karen Davis


BOOKS FOR DESERT READERS 40 The Desert Bookstore
EDITOR'S LETTER 43 DW Grantham
DUMP AT THE ARIZONA NORTHERN MINE 44 DW Grantham

DESERT MAGAZINE (USPS 535230) is published every other month. Second


class postage paid at Joshua Tree, California 92252. Offices are
located at 6373 Elwood, Joshua Tree, California. Telephoen (619)
366-3344. Please address all mail to Post Office Box 1318, Palm
Desert, California 92261. Subscription rates: $15.00 USA, $18.00
foreign, per year. See subscription form in this issue on page 42.
POSTMASTER: Send change of address by Form 3579 to DESERT MAGAZINE,
P. O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92261. Copyright 1985 by
DESERT MAGAZINE. All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any manner without securing written permission
from the publisher. CONTRIBUTIONS: The editor welcomes unsolicited
manuscripts and photographs but they can be returned ONLY if accom-
panied by a fully postage paid return envelope. While we treat
submissions with loving care, we do not assume responsibility for
loss or damage. Please have a nice day.
• \
WONDERS OF DEATH VALLEY

by Chuck Gebhardt
Along the scale of human emotions, Beneath your feet, the unseen Salt Mountains appear like marble ice-
anticipation can be the most descriptive Creek quietly flows underground cream as the sky lightens. The
characteristic of one's feeling when for another 30 miles south. The east side of Red Cathedral has
planning a visit to Death Valley absence of plant and animal life is justified its naming as the mount-
National Monument. A visitor may unnoticed as you absorb the chang- ain walls turn a brilliant red and
travel up and down the same roads ing character of the mountains in- its sculptured surface accented by
from season to season through the tensified by the sun's rising. the shadows.
Monument, yet view different landscape the salt pinnacles at the the desolation, replaced with
each and every time. That changing Devil's Golf Course as they begin beauty, as the sand dunes spread
scene may be brought about by the to glisten and sparkle like a field their shadows across Mesquite Flat,
time of day, the cloud cover, or even of grotesquely-shaped diamonds. the origin of the dune material.
the amount of rainfall during several Silence is gently nudged by the Watching closer, you see the con-
months preceding the planned visit. sunrise symphony of the salt tour of the dunes appear to alter
For example, an unstable cliff face crystals - faintly at first light - and exaggerate with each five
of sandstone may have finally given but clearer and more definitive as degree rise of the sun. Walking
way to the elements and left exposed the sun's gradual rising sends through the neighboring field of
a new facade of colors never thought warmer rays for the crystals to arrowweed shocks, you notice
to exist behind the otherwise bland absorb. As you bend down to the lengthy shadows cast by the
walls. A new wash might have been listen more intensely, a flash of shocks creep towards the dunes.
formed due to the previous summer's color suddenly strikes your eyes. The east side of the arrowweed is
rain, or a once familiar wash will have There, a few feet to your right, now becoming drenched in a pink
appeared to alter direction or size. is a sparkling salt cone of almost light. At your feet, the changing
These changes are in a continum as perfect dimensions, Here amid terrain continues to offer surprises
Nature rules over the weather,geology, the jagged rubble of salt and to the unwary. The solid and
and the plants. The extremes of the mud pinnacles lies a hollow and smooth looking surface suddenly
Valley's climate contribute greatly to delicate dome of salt crystals breaks like a pie crest thrusting
these changes; some subtle and some some eight inches high. Accumu- your foot into the soft sand
obvious. Assisting Nature in the near lations of salt in the mud, blist- underneath. Further on, the dried,
constant alteration of the Death ered by rising water, crystallize sunbaked surface crackles under-
Valley scene is Man. Man's influence to form domes or cones as foot with the sound of breaking
can be detected in one instance by a moisture evaporates. china.
slight extension of the back country
a rainbow of color dancing Inevitably, the morning must
trails. More commonly, in the litter
across the Salt Creek Hills as the move on to be replaced by the
that is randomly discarded at popular sun reflects its beauty off the harsh light of midday. At that time
sites and the more sacred hidden can- surface of the moving waters of of day, there is little of real beauty
yons. Salt Creek, Migratory waterfowl except for remote canyons and
Knowledge of these changes, noisely escape the surface of the mountain retreats where such time-
whether man-made or natural, is of great pools at the sound of your less beauty is enjoyed by the de-
little consequence to the visitor un- footsteps. A faint, narrow trail dicated lovers of Death Valley.
less they can be experienced first through the pickleweed can lead This can be the time to enjoy the
hand. Escaping the blacktop world you to a cliffs edge and in sight indoor wonders of Death Valley.
should be the goal of every visitor. of the only below-sea-level The Borax Museum, with its
Regardless of your age, sex or size, waterfall in the United States. fantastic mineral and gem collec-
take advantage of the many oppor- South and downstream, pupfish tions, is indoors at Furnace Creek
tunities to accompany a Park swim rapidly by the wooden Ranch. Taste the history of the
Naturalist on a brief exploration boardwalk exchanging glances area by a visit outside behind this
of an historical site, a natural with curious visitors. The inch- Museum. A variety of machinery
phenomena, or a colorful panorama. long, Ice Age fish are an endang- and vehicles from the mining days
Then, and only then, you will ered species, and the boardwalk past will bring you in touch with
witness yesterday.
confines foot traffic to prevent cutting
tributary streams in the main creek. One-half mile north of Furnace
the first rays of the morning
sun as they wash the western side the prominent spike of Manly Creek Ranch is the Death Valley
of the Panamint Mountains with Beacon rising above a still-darkened Museum and the National Park
strong tones of pink and red. You Badlands much like a golden finger Service Headquarters. A slow tour
are standing ankle deep in salt pointing up at the softly colored of the displays in the museum can
and mud staring out over the morning clouds, now dressed in provide a comprehensive view of
Borax Haystacks. The many pools pastel shades. Below Zabriskie Point, the basic historical, geological, and
of brackish water clearly reflect a coyote is seen loping through the natural phenomena for which Death
these historic mounds of mud, shadows of the cuts and washes of Valley is famous. See the formation
once piles of borax scraped together the Badlands. To the south of Manly of the lakes, the making of the salt
by Chinese laborers for $1.25 a day. Beacon, the foothills of the Black pan, the growth of salt crystals, and
the abundance of wild things that side the roadways can be found These are but a few of the
live and survive in this less than purple Phacelia and Purplemat, and wonders of Death Valley. There
hospitable environment. Stay a bit the odd structures of the Trumpet is much more here to fill every
and take in an interpretive talk or Plant with its swollen stems. On hour of today while tomorrow
two - hear about Death Valley's occasion, one may sight the only stands by awaiting your presence
weather, animals, plants, or how the orange-colored plant in Death the origin of the Greenwater
Shoshone Indians made baskets and Valley - the Globemallow. petroglyphs, the mystery of the
prepared their food. A five-mile walk over and moving rocks of Racetrack Valley,
through what I call "Kit Fox and the hidden identify of those
As midday gives in to late afternoont beneath the many, unmarked
one can seek the wonders of colors in Canyon" can be a botanist's
delight in a good year. The rocky gravesites these are yet to be
the eastern Valley bejeweled by the explored. Rise early to follow the
red light of the waning sun. Stand at stretch out to an old historic
road is littered with blooming sun; see, touch, smell, and hear
Artist's Palette and gaze out over the everything within your range, and
multi-colored hills which look much Beavertail cactus whose flowers
range from pink to deep magenta. Death Valley will be yours forever.
like the crash site of a rainbow. Walk
out onto the hills and touch the Sharp eyes may pick out a
colors. Wonder about the miracle of bloom or two on the Golden
chemistry that transforms trace min- Cholla - a waxy-looking, pale
erals into a veritable kaleidoscope green flower which blends well
with the help of heat and moisture. with the plant color. Underfoot
Leave here and venture up Golden at all times is the miniature Desert
Canyon to the base of Red Cathedral. Star, a mini-Sunflower about the
The western face of that towering size of Lincoln's head on a
structure is now a fire red lighting up Lincoln head penny.
the boulders strewn at its feet. In- Dropping down into the first wash
vestigate the many side canyons and of this canyon, a small, white flower
washes to discover golden, uplifted can be seen ahead virtually floating
land that seems to defy the rules of on air. This is the flower of the
Nature. Tobaccoweed known as Gravel Ghost
The brightness of day is soon to which perches atop a slim tall stem
be at an end. Quickly, now, position of some 18-20 inches in height. On
yourself about one mile up Grotto a slight slope of the canyon wall, a
Canyon road for the finale. Four patch of bright green topped with an
hundred feet below you to the off-white flower can be glimpsed.
north stretches the sand dunes and Reaching the plant, one may be dis-
all of Mesquite Flat. At this appointed by the closed petals which
opposite end of the day, the dunes prevent viewing its internal beauty.
By gently blowing into the flower,
again appear to be altering their
a momentary opening is created
shape and direction as the sun re-
through which startled eyes may
cedes. A wierd shadow is beginning
gaze at the pinkish inner petals and
to form along the eastern slip face
their tiny bases of crimson red.
of the largest dune. Watch intently This is the Desert Fivespot, one of A creosote bush witnesses the dawn, with the moon
as the shadow reaches its height of the most beautiful flowering plants setting, over the dunes at Death Valley National
fantasy—an outline of Pinocchio of Death Valley and, in harsh years, Monument in California
with the unmistakable nose! one of the most difficult to find.
Nature's greatest gift to Death
Valley must be seen in the briefest
of periods during March and April.
Time of day and sun's position is
of less, importance when flower-
waiching. The various elements of
weather, combined in the proper
mix at the proper seasonal time,
can result in a prolific display of
blooms through the Valley.
Commonly, the alluvial fans
spreading out onto the Valley
floor turn into entire slopes of
bright yellow. The Desert Gold,
Evening Primrose, and Goldpoppy
contribute to this coloring. Along- Light and shade contrast i ' the Mesquite flat dunes of Death Valley National
Monument in California.
I J • *,%'.

'X1

I
IN AND AROUND UTAH'S DIXIE

by P. Richards & D. Grantham

In the Southwest part of Utah lies


an area known as Dixie. The name
was coined by early settlers who
found the climate and growing
conditions similar to that of the area
of the confederacy known as Dixie.

The climate is mostly dry. In a


good year the area will receive ten
inches of rainfall although the average
is considerably less. Though hot, but
not unbearable in the summer, Utah's
Dixie is known for its mild winters.
The abundant sunshine and long
growing season (which once enabled
the Mormon settlers to grow cotton)
today make the area a very desirable
place to live or vacation.

Dixie's first settlement was located


at (Fort) Harmony in 1852 by
Mormon missionaries and colonists.
Among those early colonists was
John D. Lee perhaps better known as
the operator of Lee's Ferry on the
Colorado River in Arizona. Harmony
was developed into an agricultural
community although lack of water
limited its success. The site today is
not recognizable although identified
by a sign.
Horse drawn wagon in Santa Clara

9
P a r t of the duties of the
missionaries was the civilizing of the
Indian tribes of the area. To
i •

accomplish this, Jacob Hamblin and


several other missionaries established
a small settlement on the banks of
the Santa Qara River-called Fort
Clara-then Tonaquint Station-and
presently Santa Clara.

The time was December 1854.


From this settlement the saints
spread out and numerous small
communities were formed-Pine
Valley, Bloomington, Grafton,
Toqueville, to name a few. Many of
these communities retain their
individual character today.

A visit to Dixie should start at St.


George, the present county seat. For
the historian, a visit to the Museum
of the Daughters of Utah Pioneers is
a must. Located just behind the
Chamber of Commerce, this museum
has numerous displays of artifacts
and relics of the pioneer days. Former Washington County Courthouse
Admission is free and there is always Now the Chamber of Commerce
someone there to explain the
exhibits, answer questions, and tell a
story or two about the area.

Across the parking lot is the


Chamber of Commerce. Here one
may obtain information and literature
about the area, where to go, what to
see, etc. The building they occupy is
an exhibit in itself. For the
photographer, the building takes a -
good photo. It is the former County
Courthouse built in the 1870's.

P e r h a p s t h e b e s t way to
superfically explore Dixie is by
automobile. While in St. George, be
sure to visit the summer home of
Brigham Young with its period
furnishings. The most predominent
building in the city is the Mormon
Temple, which rises from the valley
floor as a bright white jewel.
Completed in 1877, this was the first
Mormon Temple completed in Utah.
There is a visitor center and the
grounds are open to non-Mormons.

One of the many creeks in


10 Southern Utah
The Mormon Temple in St. George Snow Canyon from on top of the Rim

Brigham Young's Summer Home

11
To the immediate east of St. George
is the town of Washington. Located at
the western edge of this community is
the remains of the Pioneer Cotton Mills.
As early as 1851, cotton was raised in
Northern Utah. In 1855, it was culti-
vated on a small scale at Santa Clara,
some 9 miles west. The planting of
cotton was in response to orders from
Brigham Young who wished his colon-
ists and colonies to be self-sufficient.

The nearby communities has 140


acres under cultivation and the result-
ing product was said to "be equal in
every way to that grown in Tennessee."
The first extensive manufacture of
cotton cloth was begun in 1865 when
a cooperative cotton factory was es-
tablished in Washington, (see picture)
Machinery was freighted from the
Missouri River, more than 1,300 miles
One of the many Sandstone away. Shortly after the opening of
Formations in Dixie the factory, equipment to manufacture
woolen cloth was also acquired and
installed. Large flocks of sheep were
raised locally to supply the mill.

The cotton industry flourished for


a time, partly due to Civil War inter-
ference with planters in the south.
Part of the raw product went to
California and some was freighted to
New York where it sold as high as
$1.90 per pound. After the Civil War,
the cotton industry revived in the
south and the industry in Utah was
abandoned.

Pioneer Cotton Mill Building Roadside creek in Southern Utah

12
Traveling west from St. George to
Santa Clara, one may visit the Jacob
Hamblin house. Built in 1862, the
house doubled as living quarters and
a place of retreat in case of Indian
attack. Tours are conducted through
the house and admission is free.

Just North of St. George is Snow


Canyon State Park, an area of
intricately sculptured, beautifully
coloreed sandstone cliffs, curious
volcanic formations, Indian rock art,
and much more. In the park are
picnic tables, drinking water, and a
campground. Near the north end of
Snow Canyon, the road passes
between 2 (of 3) imposing volcanic
cinder cones known as the Diand
Valley Volcanoes.

Again heading north, we pass the


Hot Springs at Veyo and head up to
Jacob Hamblin's home at Santa Clara Central. Here we turn east some 7
miles to Pine Valley. At an altitude
of 6,600 feet, the valley became a
place of retreat from the summer

.
Cliffs behind Springdale, Utah Beehive Kiln at an old Mining Town

13
** ™ ^
1)111
m m W W w 9
g. 1 I

Cemetary, Pine Valley Pine Valley Chapel

heat of the Virgen Valley. Pine


Valley's wooden chapel is one of
Utah's oldest church buildings in
continuous use, having been built in
1868 by Ebenezer Bryce, a former
shipwright and the person for whom
Bryce Canyon was named. Nearby is
Pine Valley Lake, a fishing and
c a m p i n g l o c a l e . For the
adventuresome, a dirt road leads
north to the ghost town of Pinto, but
we do not recommend this route
unless you enjoy the challenge. There
are easier ways to both Pinto's and
Old Irontown.

Returning to Central, we again


proceed north about 6 miles to the
turnoff (west) to Mountain Meadows.
This was a well known stopping place
on the old Spanish and California
trails from the 1820's to the 1850's.
It is also known as the site of a
massacre in 1857. The area is also
rumored to be the location of a very
rich " l o s t " ledge of silver ore,
Many abandoned homes can be found appearing very dark or black in color,
around the outlying area and located where ore would not
expect it to be.
14
DESERT VISITS WHITEWATER
By D. W. Grantham

Would you believe that there exists Most of the visitors to the located a few miles northwest of
an area where wild grape vines grow, Coachella Valley visit the standard Palm Springs. Take Interstate 10
trout may be caught, one can picnic destinations: The Palm Springs to the Whitewater offramp, then
under the shade of many trees, and Tramway, the golf courses, Living drive north about five miles on
frolic in a creek of cold, clear water, Desert Reserve, date gardens, and Whitewater Canyon Road. There
all within a few minutes drive of such. But few have the opportunity is a road leading to Whitewater
Palm Springs, California?? to visit Whitewater. The opportuni- from Highway 111, but this is
ties for recreation are strictly out- poorly marked. Once there, you
Yes, there is such a place. And it door. will find an adequate parking area
is a site frequently visited by many and lots of shade. The ranch is
people, all seeking recoreation in a There is a brook, several fishing open the year around every day
variety of forms. The name of the pools, outdoor grills, a shaded pic- except Monday. The hours vary.
area is Whitewater. To most travel- nic area, fish hatchery, and a store Use of the picnic area is reserved
lers, Whitewater is but an offramp with groceries, soft drinks, and for paying guests. One of the
of Interstate 10 on the way to or pole rentals. The pools contain best things about Whitewater
from Arizona or the southern part fully stocked schools of trout with Canyon in the summer is that it's
of the Coachella Valley. But to students eager to "drop out" at at least 10 degrees cooler there
those of us who know, Whitewater the wiggle of a worm. than in the valley.
is an area of unique attractions.
Whitewater Trout Ranch is Would you rather be a big fish
in a little pond or a little fish in
a big pond?? When referring to the
Whitewater Trout Ranch, it makes
no difference. In either case, you'd
have to await your turn at the worm,
so to speak. The pond population is
so dense at times that fishermen, in
baiting their hooks, turn their backs
to avoid the ever watchful eyes of
the fish. It is not sporting to catch
a fish in mid-air.

No license is required and you may


cook and feast on your fish at the
picnic grounds or take them home.
Fresh caught trout are also available
for purchase, without having to catch
them.

The Whitewater trout ranch produces


about 800,000 trout per year. Their
commercial activity includes the supply-
ing of fish to many other trout farms in
Southern California. While enjoying the
recreational area, we suggest you stroll
up to the "working area" north of the
parking lot-it will prove interesting.

Here, you will see the rearing facili-


A group of kids at play in Whitewater Creek.
ties with trout from the kindergarten
From left, Edward, Donna, and Tina.
stage up through the adult stage. There

15
A Water tank along the railroad Wild grapes growing along the road.

are about 20 ponds containing pure


spring water which is changed con-
tinuously, 24 hours per day. The water
is not reused, it is send into the White-
water wash and flows downstream.

It would be a good idea to mark the


Whitewater Trout Ranch on your calen-
dar as a place to go when "Old Sol"
starts pointing his finger at the Desert
region in late spring and during the
summer months—you will enjoy the
cool shade and quiet outdoor atmos-
phere. Whether your interest is in pa-
tronizing the fishing pools or just pic-
nicing and relaxing, you will find wel-
come relief from the heat in this happy
home of finny friends.

Nearer to the freeway is the communi-


ty of Whitewater, which consists of a
post office, building rock dealer, house,
bridge house retreat, and some ruins. In
earlier times, Whitewater was a major
stopping point on the old highway. It
boasted numerous businesses and even
several motels. Now it just sits and basks
in the sun. At the east side of the town-
site is a bridge that crosses over White-
Looking toward the town of Whitewater
16
water Creek. For some good fun and re-
creation, try visiting the creek. This area
is open for visitors and one can sun, play
in the water, ride an innertube, or picnic.
The water is cold and inviting in the
summer heat.

Whitewater is the site of a long vanish-


ed Cahuilla Indian village. It got its name
from the color of the water—it looks
white when running fast, due to the sus-
pended particles of white sand carried by
the water. South of the highway is the
site of a stage station used by the Bradshaw
line and others, which saw service from
1863 to 1877.

If you happen to visit Whitewater on a


week day, stop in at the Post Office and
buy some stamps. This office is being con-
sidered for abandonment and that would
be a real loss for the community. The
office serves many people in the canyon
and surrounding area. Unfortunately, it
does not sell enough stamps and that is
considered reason enough to abandon it.
The post office is the key to the idenity
of a community and the desert has lost
enough of that idenity. Help retain the
post office at Whitewater. Buy your
stamps while passing through.

For the electronic prospector or


train buff, Whitewater holds several
attractions. Traveling south, White-
water Canyon Road heads towards
Highway 111 and Palm Springs. Just
Whitewater Creek as it flows towards its before the junction with highway 111,
junction with Snow Creek several railroad tracks must be crossed.
Right near here is the former site of
the Whitewater Train Station, known
variously as West Palm Springs, or
just the Palm Springs Station (after
the Garnet Station was abandoned).
There were numerous buildings at
this site and the area should be good
for hunting for bottles, etc. For those
with metal detectors, it may be tough
as there is a ton of junk around the
area. Try around the old station site
itself. If you find anything, let me
know. To the west of the station
site is one of the few reamining water
tanks along the Southern Pacific
I*
Railroad.

Whitewater is just a one hour drive


from San Bernardino or Riverside and
• - - • - v .
two hours from Los Angeles. Why not
consider a visit to the area. It is a
trip I know you will enjoy.
,

Whitewater Creek during the summer


(Interstate 10 Bridge in the background)
17
l
Mountain o Topaz
by the Desert Staff
Smoky Mountain, Grassy Trail Besides, any rock collector will tell out of Delta and turned north on
Silver City, Gold Hill, Pigeon you that topaz is very collectable. Utah 99. We then turned left on a
Hollow Junction, and La Plata are The only problem was that I was gravel road and headed out a total
just names on a map —but names reading a map of Utah and that is of 39 miles from town. Here we
that make weekehd explorers quite aways from my place on the reached a junction, with a sign in-
travel many miles over rough roads California desert. But that remote- forming us that Highway 50 was
in hopes of finding a faded page ness served to make the trip all either 39 miles south or 50 miles
from the past and seeing an in- the more interesting. east at Jerico.
teresting place. Or perhaps dis-
covering a sun purpled bottle or a We drove east from Ely, Nevada Turning left, west, we proceeded two
pretty piece of rock. over Highway 50 towards Delta, miles and then turned right (north). The
Utah. After inquiring in Delta and road wound northward over a rough,
Topaz Mountain is such a name visiting a cheese factory located
and when I read it, I felt an urge to rocky bench toward a light gray mount-
there, we were northbound for
see what the mountain looked like. ain that sprawled lazily under the
Topaz Mountain. We drove west
bright blue Utah sky. A large beryllium
deposit is located a few miles to the
west of here. Scattered over the entire
area are claim markers of assorted
shapes and sizes, all marking the loca-
tion of someone's claim to the under-
LEGEND ground wealth that lies therein.
Grai/al Road
A little over a mile from the main
Unimproved Of rt Road
road, the road forked and we turned
left. Driving about a mile to the west,
o I '? <f we reached a sandy wash that drained
the Topaz Mountain area of its infre-
quent rain. Here, the road turned north,
'( I I followed the wash for about a mile,
': Mt.
' ' • / / ' " " < • • • ,

and stopped under a group of giant


juniper growing at the bottom of a
V J- Mt..
draw. This area had been used as a
campground by a good number of
visitors.
At this campground was a heavy
pipe containing a book in which
guests are to register. A statement
on the first page of the book said
the Mineralogical Society of Utah
and the Wasatch Gem and Mineral
Society, both of Salt Lake City,
hold four claims that cover the
campground and a nearby section
of-Topaz Mountain. People are in-
vited to look for Topaz on their
claims and are requested to sign the

18
book and enter the time they spent
looking for gems.
The hot summer desert sun has
bleached out these stones and
colorless, clear crystals flash like
diamonds in the bright sunlight.
With luck, a sharp-eyed person can,
in a few hours, pick up several
sparkling specimens. Everything
that shines is not, however, a gem
stone and the collector soon dis-
covers that most of the flashes
come from worthless fragments
that litter the ground. You will
learn, too, that many of the com-
plete crystals are fractured and are
of little value to collectors.

But then a lot of the fun is in


the hunt. As Shorty Harris once said:
"It's the game man, the game", mean-
ing that he may not have made a lot
of money from prospecting, but he
• ; • •
had a lot of fun playing the game.
Even fractured specimens will look
Topaz Mountain rises in the middle of a portion of isolated Utah desert attractive in a display case.
Also in the surrounding area arc
numerous ghost towns and a few
mining camps. These sites make
good exploring and are not often

si
visited by tourists. On the way to
Delta, just a short drive from Ely,
Nevada is the Lehman Caves Park.
These caves are worth the visit.
They are very photogenic.

Both approaches to Topaz


Mountain are passable throughout

». '."1
the year and if your vehicle is in
good condition, you should have
little difficulty. However, be
care fill of loose gravel and watch
for wash-outs after a storm. The

*< area is best avoided in wet weather.


Travel on both roads is erratic, so
take along extra food and water

•v :

with you because if your car does
break down, it might be sometime
before an other car comes along

The winters at Topaz Mountain


aie freezing cold. Summers are hot.
Lit* But in the Spring and Fall the
weather is really good. So, if you
Hi LJ
1
• At would like to try your hand at
gathering topaz crystals and enjoy
some scenic country and fiesh air,
give Topaz Mountain a try.
I •
A sampling of Topaz crystals collected at the Utah site
THE CHUCKWALLA iiz/*d by B. Crampton

A 16 inch long male can Being a cold-blooded animal,


He is the second largest lizard in e i t h e r d e f l a t e h i s body to Chuckwallas' activities are completely
the United States. His name, three-fourths of an inch in thickness dependent on temperature; he is
CHUCKWALLA, is of Indian origin. or inflate his body to three inches unable to move around after
The generic name, Sauromalus Obesos thickness, as a protection against his temperatures fall below a certain
means "flat lizard." And indeed he is enemies. If a Chuckwalla is undecided point. In the fall of the year, when
both a "flat" lizard and a "fat" as to whether danger is hear, he the daytime temperature begins to
lizard. usually sits high on his rock, body drop, the Chuckwalla iseldom seen.
inflated and very slowly looks over He will move slower and slower, until
The skin is so loose it hangs in the surrounding terrain. His scales are finally retreating under the rocks or
folds over his entire body, front and small, smooth and closely set. in a hole in the ground for his winter
back. When alarmed at a noise or hibernation.
frightened by an enemy, this flat His habitat is in the rocky areas of
body enables him to squeeze into the the lower desert regions of Southern The Chuckwalla is the last of all
narrowest of crevices in the rocks, Utah, Southern Nevada, Southern the lizards to emerge from his winter
and because of the loose elastic skin, California, and the lower part of hibernation into the awakening of
he can inflate his body so it is Arizona. The species is more Spring. Nature must have intended
virtually impossible to pull him out. numerous in Arizona. His body this, for, as almost all other lizards
This inflation can be 50 to 60 requires a daily temperature of from can live on insects, the Chuckwalla is
percent greater than his normal size. 80 to 120 degrees, so his habitat is a complete vegetarian and must wait
somewhat limited. until the buds and flowers of the

• ^

A vegetarian the Chuckwalla dines on leaves and berries | *


Despite his fierce appearance he is docile and shy
20
desert come into bloom. He eats to the body. Their color is a Mating takes place in late May and
prickly pear, leaves of the creosote brownish gray, or lightish gray. As a June. Eggs are laid in July or August
bush and encelia bush, and blossoms male grows older, his gray color turns in holes in the ground. Hatching
of all colors, although its favoritefood to a black and he will have yellow takes place in late August or
seems to be anything with a yellow and orange spotty dots on his back September, and the number of eggs
color. and stomach. These dots will not be to a clutch is from eight to fourteen.
too noticable when he is cold or The babies are about two inches in
frightened, but warm, contented, and length.
A good part of every day is spent lying on a rock, he presents a very
lying on the rocks, sunning and beautiful coloring. In s p i t e of t h e i r languid
napping. The territory of a male appearance, their stubby legs can
Chuckwalla includes at least one Their chief weapon of defense is carry them with great speed.
good-sized rock, at least four or five their fat, blunt tail, which, when Watching a Chuckwalla at very close
feet high, and six to eight feet in hurled in an enemy's direction, will r a n g e , he looks demure and
width. This territory is about 20 feet cause the enemy to think twice contented sa any peaceful soul on
square. He will allow very young before attacking again. Their teeth earth. When frightened by noise or
Chuckwallas in his territory, most are in a single row around the edges enemy, he has the appearance of a
females, but never another mature of their jaw, and they use them when vicious monster from a prehistoric
male. Early morning and late the occasion arises. They are sharp age.
afternoon seem to be the time for and the bite from a Chuckwalla feels
eating, which is a slow, contented like many tiny pin pricks. Their last But they are not vicious monsters.
process. The nights are spent under means of defense, but the method They are shy, yet friendly and
the rocks, sleeping. used most often, is running into a curious. You caspend hours watching
crevice and inflating their bodies to their antics, but, even if you do
With the exception of the Gila full expansion-making themselves capture one to study, do not take
Monster, the Chuckwalla is our send quite impossible to be pulled out. him home. . .leave him in his own
largest Iguanid lizard, with a full Living among the. rocks as they do, natural habitat for others to enjoy.
grown male usually growing to about crevices and safety are usually within
18 inches, including the long rounded easy reach of Chuckwalla.
tail, which is generally equal in length

Early morning the lizard crawls out of his hole into the sun
When danger threatens the Chuckwalla inflates his body **
21
Exploring Ghost Railroads — An Introduction
By DW Grantham

Chase Gold Mine site. Very quickly, right of way of the Ludlow South-
I must confess that I am a con- over just a period of a year or two, ern Railroad which connected
firmed ghost town buff. I spend I witnessed the town disappear for- Stedman with Ludlow. While
many hours pouring over old books ever into the desert sands through walking the roadbed, I discovered
and maps, hoping to find a lost or a combination of excessive vanda- many things one would not
at least forgotten remnant of the lism and reckless methods for normally be able to see or find.
past that has not yet disappeared collecting camp relics. One morning I found where the train was stored
forever. Over the years, it has while approaching the townsite, I and serviced. Spikes and tie plates
steadily become more and more noticed a plume of smoke rising were occassionally found sticking
difficult to find a site that has not from ahead. Upon arrival at Stedman, out of the sand. And I found
been collected or vandalized. we found a group of visitors from a various sites that indicated they
large city who had set the headframe were previously occupied by
It would not be practical for me of one of the mineshafts on fire and someone who preferred to live
to list all the towns and camps were sitting around watching it burn. close to the railroad.
that have totally disappeared over Their attitude was that of "who
the last decade or so. Ricardo, cares, it is not being used anyway". Then I started to notice the
Garlock, Providence, Stedman, various roads and trails that led
Lavic, the list just goes on and on. This level of destruction led me down from the hills to the road-
One of my more early and un- to seek other, more inaccessable bed. Many had not been used for
pleasant experiences came with sites to explore. I developed my a long time. Following these
exploring Stedman and the Bagdad- idea from walking the abandoned trails often led to a mine site or

A Southern Pacific Train passes the


site of an abandoned station

' A Santa Fe Freight Passing Bouse, Arizona

22
An Abandoned Railroad right of way.
Note that it is narrow
other center of human habitation.
I was hooked.

My readings have taught me


that there are a multitude of a-
bandoned railroads in the South-
western United States. Colorado
is perhaps the state with the
most abandoned lines, but all the
other states showed many prom-
ising leads.

Consider for a moment the follow-


ing abandoned (ghost) railroads and
the areas they served: California:
Carson and Colorado, Tecopa RR,
Death Valley RR, Tonopah and
Tidewater, Bodie and Benton.
NevadaWirginia & Truckee, Nevada
Copper Belt, Dayton, Sutro and
Gold Hill, Eureka & Palisade, Pioche
& Bullionville. Arizona: Arizona &
A Santa Fe Railway Baggage Car Southern, Arizona & Swansea,
on display in Scottsdale, Arizona Tombstone & Southern, Twin Buttes.
The list goes on and on.

So how do you go about finding


one of these ghost railroads and
following its path? The first stop
is at the library. Pick a geographic
area. Then refer to books on 1)
The area 2) Railroads 3) Transpor-
tation 4) History. If an area was
served by a vanished railroad, some
reference should turn up from those
subjects. In addition, most states
have a Railroad Commission or
such that is charged with the regu-
lation of railroads within their
state. They will have detailed re-
cords on the roads.

Now that we have done all our


library homework, we must pre-
pare for the field work. First, a
map of the route must be acquired
along with a topographic map and
road map. The major points (inter-
sections, sidings, stations, etc)
should be identified and located on
the topographic map.

Next comes the easy part. Pack


your vehicle with the necessary
equipment, pick a date, arrange
for your friends to accompany you,
and depart.

Upon arrival at your distination,


you might wonder what to do next.
Example of railroad dike
(raised roadbed)
23
Let's take an example. One of my top of the hill, the roadbed
favorite non-desert railroads is the crossed Highway 49, went through
Sierra Railway in Central California.
a cut, and recrossed the highway.
In December 1983, I wrote about
the long abandoned Angeles Branch.
The roadbed then went along
Let's look at a typical field trip to
the side of a hill and turned east.
that locale.
Here, at one time, it decended
the mountain and crossed the
Upon arrival in Jamestown, we river on a bridge. Then it went by
find a State Museum and operating the ghost town of Robinson's
railroad. But that is the Standard Ferry (under water now) and
to Oakdale line. The map indicates climbed the hill on the north side
that the line used to split off and of the river. The portion of the
head northward to Angles Camp. right of way not under water is
After a close examination of the easy to follow. Crossing Highway
area, a single track is found that 49 again (at a level some 15 feet
leads to the north. Obviously not above the present highway, the
in use, we follow it. It goes be- rails served the mines of Carson
hind several houses and businesses Hill. At this site is a glory hole
and deadends. This is what we are of very large proportions. Here,
looking for--the point from which too, were several sidings. The
the tracks have been removed. roadbed then went north towards
the town of Angels Camp where
the line ended. At Angels Camp,
From this point to the highway, we found the station still in use,
nothing is visible. Not even an area but as a private residence.
where tracks might have been. So
The site of an abandoned siding and station. we cross the highway and look there.
Note the shadow of the removed rails In summary, by following
No sign, even at Woods Creek, which this abandoned branch line, we
on the ties. must have been crossed with a small visited the ghost towns of
bridge. So we proceed north along Rawhie, Tuttletown, Robinsons,
Rawhide Road, looking for any sign Carson Hill, Melones, Irvine, and
of a right-of-way. As we approach the current town of Angels Camp
the summit, it suddenly turns right and Jamestown. Along the way
and goes straight along the side of a we found many inactive mines,
mesa, which appears to be a lava numerous old buildings and
flow. Past the former town of formerly occupied sites. Our list
Rawhide, and towards Shaws Flat, of places to revisit with a metal
the roadbed is easily recognizable detector and equipment grew
and in use for autos. Then it turns large. And we are sure that we
left and heads straight for a ghost did not find all the interesting
mining town, Tuttletown. Here and places. And I know of several
there we are able to identify por- other abandoned stretches of the
tions of the right-of-way and rail- Sierra Railway just waiting to be
road dike. explored.

After a short visit to the ruins


of Tuttletown, things began to get Our finds of the trip were
challenging. The railbed headed several ceramic type beer bottles
north by northwest, curving to- from Scotland and some spikes.
wards what is locally called But we had a great time for two
"Jackass Hill". Back along the days and saw some really scenic
roadbed, which we walked, we country, laced with large amounts
found a number of old mines of history. Exploring ghost rail-
and shafts. Then we got a surprise. roads can be great fun and adven-
The curves going along the mount- ture. Why not try exploring one
ain were so steep that the trains in your locale??
had to use a series of switchbacks.
The train actually had to back up
part of the mountain. Once on
Railroad Artifacts in the dirt.
Spikes and a Spike plate.
The Lest Dutchman Legend

REVISITED

By Dr. David Redd

Of all of the lost mine stories of L O S T MINES OF THE Indians-arid, the Peralta brothers
the American Southwest, perhaps the PERALTAS hoped, gold mines in the raw. For
best known is that of the Lost Apache thunder gods were first in the Peralta silver mines in Chihuahua,
Dutchman Mine of the Superstition the wild Superstitions. They were after two generations of furnishing a
Mountains of Central Arizona. More there a thousand ages before living in the pleasant manner due
has been written on this fabulously Conquistadores called the unknown Spanish noblemen, were at last near
rich lost mine than one can possibly exhaustion. Their owner, Miguel
land Pimeria Alta, before white men
read. But let's get one thing straight Peralta, had just returned home from
had given a name to that incredibly
right now-I do not believe that the a trip to the headwaters of the Rio
twisted maze of somber canyons and Salado with a perfect way to remedy
Lost Dutchman Mine exists, except as
a mighty tall tale. Nor do I believe jagged, lofty crags which rise abruptly the situation.
that Jacob Waltz or Walzer ever had a like a lost world set apart high above
rich mine, much less a lost or the Arizona wastelands.
" T h i s r i o drains a virgin
carefully hidden one. As always, I wilderness," he told his eager sons,
welcome letters from our readers on The thunder gods are still there hi
"in which gold anywhereill give clues
this subject. Maybe someone out the weird immensity of their domain
to itself as placer-erosion-borne
there knows something I don't. as all ggood Indians will affirm-and
particles~in the riverbed. Follow the
many white men also. But now there
river then until you find such placer
is gold, yellow glittering gold, found gold, and trace it back to its source."
Anyway, through my readings and and lost with bleaching bones to
explorations, I have come to the guard it, and strange noises in the This was excellent prospecting
conclusion that if any lost mine or nightwind. And a pagan curse is advice in any time or country. And it
treasure exists in the Superstitions, it was exactly what Pedro, Ramon and
abroad on the land-the curse of all
is most probably a Peralta discovery Manuel with their little band of
men who have too little and want
or maybe the lost Apache Gold Mine. family retainers were doing as they
too much.
I tend to favor the Peralta discovery, journeyed for endless weeks down
but who is to say that the Peralta's the ever-widening course of the Salt
did not find the Apache Mine or that The curse and the gold were found River. They followed the rushing
the Apache. Indians mined an together nearly a century ago, the waters through high sheerwalled
a b a n d o n e d P e r a l t a location? result of a deliberate treasure hunt. gorges cut through multicolored rock,
(Pesh-la-Chi? But the gold was lost again. And even travelled past boulder-choked rapids
today men are searching for the eight and verdant oases of willow and
fabulous bonanzas which were first cottonwood, briefly green against the
One of the most readable, although worked by the ill-fated Peralta
somewhat "enlivened" accounts of eternal browns and reds and greys of
expedition from Mexico. tuffa, sandstone, basalt and rocky
the Peralta ventures, appeared some
years ago (1945) in this magazine. The year was 1846. It was the soil. Occasionally they tested for gold
The text of that article follows. In period when Santa Fe as capital of a where tributary drainages poured
the next issue, I will explain why I remote frontier province was the water into the river or where
believe the Dutchman never had a jumping off place for a vast western sandbars or riffled bedrock made a
rich bat hidden mine-anywhere. t e r r i t o r y infested by savage natural gold trap in the riverbed

25
/* itself. And always they pressed
relentlessly on toward a horizon as
distant and vague as the purple
clouds at sunset. Then finally on a
lucky fall day they rounded an
abrupt bend in the river's shadowed
chasm to find before them (at the
present site of Mormon Flat) a
veritable paradise in that county of
sun-baked, rainbow-hued rock, a
small, verdant valley in the middle of
which La Barge creek, then unnamed,
tumbled down in minature cascades
from a range of jagged mountains on
the south. From the wild, uncharted
Superstitions!

. Dutchman So was history made. And so


Peralta Locality began legend. . . For there at the
junction of the stream and the river
they fell to work with goldpan and
shovel as they had a hundred times
before. But this time, gold was there,
a fabulous treasure trove of bright,
yellow flakes, caught beneath the
sands of the riverbed from a million
years of rock- pulverizing erosion
above.

Indeed only a fantastic bonanza


containing undreamed of wealth
somewhere in the rugged maze of
deep canyons and rock spires above
could have released such a store of
treasureAnd with the first wild shout
of discovery the trek of the Peralta
b r o t h s t o p p e d with dramatic
s u d d e n n e s s , a n d an excited
consultation was held.

By this time their provisions had


dwindled. And Pedro, who as eldest
brother was in nominal command,
decided to split up their forces in the
interest of speed. And he left Ramon
and Manuel to build a permanent
camp at the desert oasis and
construct the two arrastas which still
may be seen there when the water is
low. And so the two grew wealthier
and more selfish day by day as they
worked the placer beds. As gold piled
up, they grew ever more fearful of
the newly found fortune. Sulking
savages had been seen in the vicinity.

In the meantime Pedro was on the


trail of golden ore for the arrastas
JJOXTON PLLEN- which he had ordered built. Higher
To FLORENCE and higher he climbed from La Barge

26
into Boulder creek, on up Needle Canyon which drains the west slopes good ore behind, went down into
Canyon and into the very heart of of Bluff Springs Mountain, and left Needle canyon below, into which the
the Apache Thunder Gods' own another crosscut on the side of a hill. eastern slopes of the black-topped
sacred mountains. There within a Then finally high on the eastern mountain drained, and there made a
region from one to two miles slopes of a black-topped mountain a key marker by driving stones into a
northerly of a towering, hat-shaped mile and a half due north of La giant saguaro cactus. This cactus
peak which he named La Sombrera, Sombrera, he came upon rich twin stood upon the end of a rocky ridge
the placer trail thinned out and he outcrops of reddish, gold bearing which jutted into the canyon and was
fell to prospecting for the source of quartz. Circling around the same consequently outlined in bold relief
the metal. mountain he found a third on the against the sky so that it would have
north side and still another below the been almost impossible for him later
southwestern slopes. Four bonanzas! to pass by without seeing it. Then
First, he tried a steep tributary
from this marker he made a
canyon (now known as Bluff
Exciting weeks fled then in swift triangulation map by drawing the
Springs), followed its brush and
succession while the wheel of fortune outlines of both the fabulous
boulder choked course upward over
spun crazily. But soon provisions mountain to the west and La
waterfalls and cliffs to the top of the
were gone and the mules were Sombrera to the south so anyone
high, plateau like Bluff Springs
could return to the proper region
mountain, and left behind as proof of staggering under capacity loads of
merely by traveling up Needle
his presence narrow exploration shining yellow rock ready to be
Canyon until a point was reached
cross-cuts on several quartz veins. crused in the arrastas. Pedro, after from which both landmarks matched
Again, he tried farther up Needle the fashion of miners who must leave the chart from entirely different
directions.

Then Pedro returned to the river


to find his brothers impatiently
awaiting him.

Indians, it seemed, were the


trouble-and the impatience that a
golden fortune would bring to
anyone. Nor did Pedro's tale of yet
more gold change their minds.

"We already have enough for


a lifetime," explained Ramon and
Manuel. "And we have decided to
enjoy it while we may. We want to
go far south of the village Tucson
where cattle flourish and establish a
great rancho. For here each day more
savages come to prowl about and
harass us. Soon we might be
overwhelmed. And then what of our
gold?

Pedro laughed at their fears. He


loved gold more than he feared
disaster. Moreover, the gold was
inexhaustible, it seemed, a prize in a
thrilling game. So wasn't the gamble
of finding it, the risk of getting away
with it of far more importance?

"We part then," Pedro said,


"because I am returning home for a
larger expedition with which to work
These prehistoric petroglyphs have been called treasure symbols by uninformed
the mines. So let us divide all equally
persons. They were here long before the Dutchman.

27
with a fourth share for padre. Ant others into mining and prospecting constantly larger so that Pedro was
will draw each of you a chart shoi parties which were scattered over forced to place more and more of his
you desire later to return." several square miles in the wild region men upon guard duty to protect
around the black-topped mountain those mining. And unknown to him
The two copies of Pedro's map which he had mapped before. under cover of the harrassing attacks
which went south into Sonora with wily Apache chieftains far to the
Ramon and Manuel were bright The prospecting parties almost north across the river were massing
threads in the amazing skein of immediately discovered two more together hundreds of braves with
golden disaster which Apache potential bonanzas above the key whom to destroy at one blow the
Thunder Gods were even then marker in Needle Canyon, both lying invaders who so tenaciously worked
weaving with sardonic mirth. For the upon the steep slopes of a hill jutted and fought within their sacred
towering pinnacles and sheer, chasm- into the canyon from the western mountains.
cliffs of the Superstitions were side. Then directly across from this Pedro's first hint of the impending
age-long Apache domain-sacred hill in a steep-climbing arroyo which catastrophe came from the river on
ground to be guarded with life and ran up the canyon's eastern side and an unlucky September day when a
honor by every savage who feared the under towering cliffs still a third vein scout staggered into camp to gasp out
midsummer lightning bolts and of rich, gold bearing quartz was with his life a horrible tale of
crashing thunder, the roaring floods found. Later, further exploration massacre at the arrastas. The Apaches
of winter which angry deities sent located one more mine site about had slaughtered the astonished
down those deep, rough canyons! three-quarters of a mile east of La workers upon the river and even at
Sombrera, near the western slopes of that moment were ambushing guards
Back from Chihuahua City to La Barge Canyon. But this latter and packers. Then other scouts
mine, which was rediscovered in rushed into camp to inform the
1940, was merely a conglomerate miners that death was indeed upon
those same mountains came Pedro
placer deposit formed in prehistoric them, that hordes of fierce savages
again in the winter of 1847-48 with
times when the mountains lay under were swarming into the Superstitions
68 men and 200 mules. Back to the sea and its gravels failed to match in over-whelming numbers and had
golden fortune-and savage death! in fantastic richness the white and already surrounded them upon all
rose quartz ores of the other seven sides but the west.
No sooner had he returned to the bonanzas.
arrastas upon the river in the fall of
1847 than skulng savages began to Pedro immediately ordered his
appear, were glimpsed here and there There began in the Superstitions mules burdened with treasure had
like furtive ghosts. then feverish activity such as the them packed with all the golden
m o u n t a i n s had never before concentrates which they could carry.
The very nature of that incredibly witnessed. Permanent camps, of A local cowboy in 1901 stumbled
rough country, the somber chasms of which there are still traces, were upon $35,000 worth amid a heap of
La Barge, Boulder and Needle established in Needle, Bluff Springs Spanish-shod mulebones on top of
Canyons, each with its labyrinth of and La Barge Canyons, and in one of the black-topped mountain. And
countless tributary arroyos made the arroyos at the foot of La while the miners fought a desperate
excellent cover in which silent Sombrera Pedro had a stone hut rear-guard action there Pedro himself
Apaches came and vanished like erected from which he could direct buried the remainder on the fabulous
furtive phantoms. And continually the mining. Nearby, too, charcoal pits hill which he had mapped, cutting in
from such vantage places warriors in which to retemper and sharpen solid rock upon the top in the form
kept the gold hungry invaders under drills were dug and fired, trees were of Spanish miner's signs a permanent
surveilance, occasionally transfixed a felled and hewed into mine timbers memorandum of its location and the
luckless miner with flint-tipped and always the shafts were sunk nearby locations of his richest mines.
arrows that seemed to come from deeper and deeper into gold-speckled Then his band of miners fled in
nowhere. ore which busy muletrains gathered frp»i7ied haste toward the open desert
and hauled to the arrastas. And so to the west-fled in the only direction
If Pedro had been a soldier he for many months the profitable which had been left open.
w o u l d h a v e r e c o g n i z e d the business of mining went on.
unmistakable portents of impending But they fled into a trap!
disaster and would have kept his men By now the winter of 1847-48 had
together. But he was a miner and the come and gone, the brief desert Apaches were there waiting, were
mad, driving urge to dig quick spring had long sincefaded and the indeed everywhere-hideously painted
fortune from his mines, the romantic, heat of summer was on the wane. s a v a g e s , r i d i n g madly upon
reckless impulse to search for yet And then suddenly the Apaches, who bare-backed ponies, screaming,
more gold at the same time made had been content with occasional fighting, killing in a blood-thirsty,
him ignore danger. And so he divided raids upon isolated miners and superstitious frenzy. They drove the
his strength, leaving a handful of packers, began to attack in earnest. miners back against the mountain
workers at the arrastas, splitting the The roving bands of warriors grew cliffs within sight and sound of the
present location of Goldfield. Then
28
from all sides came a deadly hail of t h e m i n e s h a f t s and the
arrows, savagely hurled lances . . . . abandoned tools back into the shafts.
yellow-flecked rock which had been Then they covered the mines with
uncovered there would no doubt be stout logs which in turn were covered
The Apaches promptly scalped found again. And then once more an
t h e i r victims and looted the with the natural caliche cement that
invading horde would swarm into the hardens into rock, placing over the
packtrain, thinking they had obtained mountains. Should such a thing occur
a fortune in booty. But unwittingly whole yet another covering in the
once more, said the medicine men cunning Indian fashion-this time of
t h e y l e f t a greater fortune holding solemn council upon the
behind-yellow dirt, so they thought, dirt and surface rocks to match the
matter, the Apaches might forever surrounding ground.
which they dumped disdainfully upon after be punished severely by storms
the ground. Many years later in 1914 and floods and all manner of natural
two prospectors., C.H. Silverlock and But with all this care the Apache
disasters which angry deities could
a partner, digging in curiosity amid squaws left one mine open because
contrive. So it was decreed that a
the debris of a massacre, found part they thought it so well isolated and
band of thirty squaws and two
of it there-$18,000 in glittering hidden that it would never again be
youths would be sent back into the
golden concentrates! found. And it was the most fantastic
Superstitions to destroy all traces of
bonanza of them all, a mere shallow
the workings and cover the mines.
Now the invaders had indeed been pit, newly opened, which was
destroyed to the last man. But there destined to become America's most
And there in the mountains this sought-for mine. This was the
still remained in the sacred domain of work party labored for one full
the thunder gods the sacrilegious legendary treasure that was to
moon, throwing ore and hastily become known later as the Lost
work they had wrought. Moreover,
Dutchman Mine.

The Superstitions in a dramatic mood.


I EXPLORING SAN BERNARDINO COUNTY GHOST

TOWNS PART ONE: M

by Michael Bandini
San Bernardino County is
literally covered with ghost towns
and vanished camps. Perhaps one of
the lesser known of those ghost
towns is Ivanpah. The name is of
Indian origin and is Southern Piute
for "good water", an obvious
* \

\^~ A"- reference to the existing and former


springs at the site. South of the
•i •'*>,•> - •.-•jvjk Mesquite Mountain Range, on the

eastern slope of the Clark Mountains,
lies the remains of this old silver
mining camp. The site is quite close
• - * • •

- - . m
' ~ & ;
to the Nevada State line. This, the
original townsite, is not to be
confused with the present day
settlement and railroad facility, by
the same name, on the Union Pacific
, -
Railroad between Nipton and Cima,
Cal. That settlement, which I call
"new Ivanpah", is a relative
youngster, having been founded in
1903.

The old, original town of Ivanpah


Once-filled water tanks and grassy areas are now dry and barren. was situated around springs that are
now shown on topographic maps as
Ivanpah Springs. The records of the
P o s t Office D e p a r t m e n t in
Washington D.C. list the location as
81 miles north of Fenner, on the
Santa Fe Railway line to Needles.
(Current location is 11 miles

southwest of Nipton). Ivanpah first
came into public view as the result of
silver discoveries and subsequent
mining operations as early as 1867.
This activity blossomed out to a full
scale boom town witcontinued
discoveries of valuable silver ore into
t h e 1 8 7 0 ' s . The total silver
production for the area has been
estimated to be four million dollars,
and that at a time when silver sold
Ruins of stone houses are good grounds for use of metal detectors.
for less than $1.00 per ounce. At

30
$8.00 silver, the production estimate buildings, a few adobe type block in two large metal tanks for use by
would approximate $35,200,000.00, houses and a few "dugout" type cattle. Wild burros depend upon this
not too shabby even at todays shelters are also recognizable. In source of water and are still watching
inflated prices. addition, there are some remains over the townsite as not very silent
from later attempts to reactivate sentries. If you are fortunate, you
At the peak of production, mining in the area. may be able to take a few good
between 1882 and 1885, Ivanpah photographs of the burros as they
boasted a population of 300. Wagon This is truly a ghost town. Not climb over the washes and hills of the
roads connected the mines with the many people visit the quiet old lady area.
town and led to junctions with roads of yesterday, and a feeling of awe
leading to neighboring towns such as and deep respect is prevalent as one To reach the site of "Old
Goodsprings (Yellow Pine Mining walks around through the ruins and Ivanpah", travel north on Interstate
District) and Barstow (Waterman underbrush. It would not surprise me 15 towards Las Vegas, Nevada. Travel
Junction). The townsite was broken if there are still to be discovered past Barstow, by Baker, and 43.5
up into segments, each one near one dugout homes and adobe ruins in the miles beyond Baker you will
of the springs and having numerous area, buried under many years of approach the Yates Well offramp.
structures located nearby. In addition growth of weeds and brush. Packrats, Exit the freeway at this offramp and
to the usual assortment of residences unmolested by man, have built many travd .6 of a mile west to a stop sign
and commercial buildings, the town large nests. Some of these nests have on a stretch of the old highway.
had a post office, which opened on been found to contain old bottles Make a right turn and travel north.
June 17, 1878. and other relics of interest to the Quickly, you will come across a gate.
ghost town buff or collector of If it is closed, open it and pass
Some of the ruins are identifiable Western Americana. through. BE SURE TO CLOSE THIS
as to their purpose. Two mills were GATE AFTER YOU HAVE DRIVEN
built at the town,and one can be Unfortunately, two of the springs YOUR CAR PAST IT' If it is open,
recognized. The ruins of the smelter, have gone dry, but one still produces you might be kind and close it.
the assay office, someof the stone clear, sparkling water that is caught Otherwise, cattle can wander all over
the place and either get lost or **
injured.

Four-tenths of a mile further up


the road, make a left turn. There is a
fork in the road at this point. Travel
another three-tenths of a mile in a
westerly direction and another gate is
reached. Again, be sure to close the
gate behind youProceed another 5.5
miles from this gate, pass under the
h i g h voltage power lines,and
anabandoned house will appear. This
ruin is a remnant of more modern
times.

Just beyond this abandoned house,


the road forks. This is the site of the
ghost town of Ivanpah. The left fork
continues six-tenths of a mile, ending
at the previously described water
tanks. At the tanks is a nice grassy
spot (in season) where water has
irrigated the local vegetation. It is a
good spot to stop and explore the With a population of 300 in its heyday, Ivanpah's mines produced more than
area. Nearby are the mill ruins and $4,000,000 in silver. Today, the once flowing springs are dry and the rock houses
some of the stone buildings. The area of the miners are occupied by packrats. Little known, the area may be rich in
is best explored by foot. Remember, bottles and other collectors' finds. Undergrowth has covered many locations.
this is the desert and at certain times
of the year, walking must be done
with caution, less one suddenly
discover a rattle snake.

Returning to the forks of the road,


take the right fork. In seven-tenths of
a mile the northern most portion of
the town will have been reached. It is 'n
best, again, to park your vehicle and
walk. For those who are interested in
looking for bottles, it would be ' t
advisable to take along a metal
detector to help find hidden piles of
cans. Many of these trash piles were r SITE OF
'OLD IVANPAH
shallow pits that are now filled with
dirtand rock or covered over by
brush. Look for them in an area that
would have been near a home or in a
ravine that would catch them as
water carried them away, during one
of the desert's infrequent gully :- i S « 7 , / House VM
washers.
,iii|

Anyarea that would have been a


natural place for the people to have
thrown their cans and bottles is a
good place to start your search.
Diligent searching shoulddiscover
many more relics. Who knows, maybe walls or ruins of the structures and
you will be the next one to find a fill your holes if you must dig. In
sun-colored medicine bottle or some that way, there will be something left
other token of a long gone era. As for future generations to visit and
always, be careful not to damage the appreciate the past.
32
TKE TERRIBLE TARANTULA
by Tim St. George

Water Witching
No Water . . . No Charge
Also, we Dowse
for Minerals and Oil

CHARLES W
SHAW
(619) 262-2260
1205 46th St., San Diego, CA 92102

CLASSIFIED ADS

* * * *

WESTERN S Latin Americana


Sepd $1.00 for rare book
catalogue.
Jane Zwisohn
524 Solano Drive NE
JL HE DANCE of the Tarantella its size simply to lay one egg and per- Albuquerque, New Mex.
started it. Malevolent Dr. Fu Manchu petuate the hawk's clan. 87108
added to the legend. And fear and Once contact is made, the spider
ignorance perpetuated the base can- and wasp circle warily, looking for
ards about the ferocity and dangers openings. Then one or the other MAGAZINES FOR SALE:
of the tarantulas. makes a lunge. Engaged, the taran- Desert, Treasure, Western
tula tries to sinks its hypodermic-like rare back issues for sale.
No doubt these hairy arachnids Send want List to:
are somewhat creepy-looking, but the fangs into the wasp's abdomen. But Harold Moody
fact is, the North American tarantula there are armor-plated scales which Box 803
bite is seldom administered until the seldom are penetrated. Meanwhile, Project C i t y , Cal. 96079
tarantula has been plagued beyond the wasp has inserted its stinger into
endurance by someone interested in a vital area, always where nerve
measuring a spider's patience. There ganglia are located. The effect is
is said to be one variety in South dramatic in that the stricken taran-
America big enough and deadly tula staggers and shudders in true
enough to capture and feast on small movie fashion as he goes limp, prey Hilllf Mf.rjll.fc

to the Tarantula Hawk. © HIT,'"


birds, but ours are friendly, useful
bug eaters. The wasp is just as efficient in pre-
i r..i7.ii..i".m

E-z i _w_ _ i - ^ "

paring the cadaver as a birthplace for


Tarantulas love to primp and en- its young. She first cleans herself of
joy being stroked or combed with a any remaining tarantula venom, then
small, soft brush. Youngsters occa-
sionally match them for harness
flips the tarantula over and drags it
into either the spider's own home, or _..,...... n^
u". S.ST

races, a thread being tied about the


tr
. •

a nearby burrow. The wasp care-


spiders' bodies to keep them on the fully scrapes away the irritating hair
^=^ ~-:
ililihi

track. Squeamish teachers have dis- on the abdomen, then lays one white I.UJL
=•-»

patched the author's son when his .is—


tarantula accidentally popped out
from a matchbox on the school room
egg, and leaves, after carefully plug-
ging the entrance with dirt and debris
to insure a safe, large meal for the
———- —. .;..7.:-.V.T,-.T^.

floor. (Dead, some boys chop the wasp when it hatches. D&S •MHM
body hair and use it as itching pow-
der. It is an irritant and used by the Though being host for a parasite is . 1g.-uM.cn. 6000
R/'J'.i

spider in defending itself.) its last act, the tarantula gobbles up " :*.,".
1
!££?•:*
;
„ 19S

numerous harmful insects and gener- 5t3S

.„.
But such youngsters and tarantulas ally minds its own business without
need all the friends they can get. The harm to man. Deserving a better MID

spider, not the boy, has a Nemesis press than it receives, the tarantula
in the form of a wasp, the "Taran- should be recognized as harmless and ,000

tula Hawk" (Pepsis thisbe) which helpful, rather than hirsute and
will take on a tarantula several times horrendous. ///
33
>:,<•

Salome was so dry


her legendary pet frog
carried a canteen and
never learned to swim because
there were no puddles of water.

P*1
DICK WICK
HALL

by Karen Davis

It isn't easy to find out who Dick After this, he obtained a job on in the red. To regain the losses, Hall
Wick Hall really was. Most libraries, the old Tewksberry Ranch in printed an edition whose front page
even in Arizona and California have Pleasant Valley. This site, in north- glistened with a coating of real gold
little or no material on him. Randall eastern Arizona, is known as the and copper dust. In that edition, he
Henderson, Founder of DESERT setting of the bloody callteman- made a request for financial support
MAGAZINE says he was a good sheepman feud between the Grahams from his readers. This request was
friend. So just who was he? De and the Tewksberrys. also the first known example of his
Forest Hall (his true name-originally) published humor. It read:
Hall wrote enthusiastic accounts "The past ten months serve to
was born in Creston, Iowa on March of live in Arizona to the family
30, 1877. back home. Thus, his entire family remind us
moved out west. His brother, Ernest Editors don't stand a chan ce
His adventures were numerous. He
attended college , served in a war, later became Secretary of State of Editors don't stand a chance
collected rattlesnakes in Florida, and Arizona. Dick Hall's closest encoun- The more we work we find
went on to become Arizona's great ter with state government was his behind us
humorist. It was at the Nebraska next job-on the construction of the Bigger Patches on our pants
State Fair that Hall heard about the State Capitol. Then let each one show how
Hopi Indians of Arizona and their they like us
DeForest's next venture was an
religious rights. As an amateurrher- Send what you can to Dick
indicator of things to come-as a
petologist, he was intrigued by their Wick Hall
promotor r For the remainder of
use of live rattlesnakes in religious Or when the fall winds come
his life, Hall was to become one of
dances. So, in 1898, at the ripe old to strike us
the greatest promoters of Arizona.
age of 21, Hall travelled to Northern We won't have no pants at all."
This new job also set Hall up as a
Arizona and the Hopi Reservation. newspaperman. The job was editing
Here he took a job as a census taker. This is also the first time we
the Wickenburg News-Herald, which find his new name in use. By
He then lived with the Hopi for a had not been an outstanding success
while, gaining a valuable insight into court order, he had it changed.
before, and which, after about 10 From an article in the April 27,
the people and their philosophies.
months under his guidance, went deep 1902 ARIZONA REPUBLICAN,

34
In 1903 or 1904, Dick, tired
From 7906 ««/*'/ few de<rtfc /« 7926, of prospecting around the area
D/c£ IF<V& HW/ brought inter- with his brother, Ernest, began
national fame to the town he founded. plans to develop the Salome area.
He is shown here in front of his He had become a victim of gold
fever when a miner, thought to
"Laughing Gas" service station.
• -
be Shorty Alger, set off a dyna-
mite blast which uncovered a
fabulously rich pocket of gold-
• • " i *?[ comes the following: "Dick Hall
ore running $100 or more per
came down from Wickenburg
pound (gold sold for less than $20
yesterday and will be in the city
an ounce at this time). In no
(Phoenix) for a few days. He came
time at all, some 2,000 people were
for the express purpose of chang-
. - 1 milling around the area west of
ing his name and he is not going
Wickenburg. The bonanza was short
to get married to accomplish that
lived and most prospectors went
purpose either. He says 'Dick' is
•"•m,fl back home.
all right for a name as far as it
goes, but it doesn't go far enough. Dick decided that gold was not
% He is going to space it out there- only where, but in whatever form
- " I B ^^^ssiKr / \ fore with the alliterative name of
'Wick' so that hereafter he will be
you found it, so he and Ernest
filed on 100,000 acres of land and
r. ••>
1 known as 'Dick Wick Hall.' This
is purely a matter of patriotism
sank a well. This was called the
Grace Valley Development Company.

.,».... 1 with him. He says any man ought


to be proud of the town in which
he lives? at least he is, and he
lives in Wickenburg, or 'Wick' for
Soon a few buildings were hastily
thrown together around the wells
site. Today, this spot is about one-
half mile north of the present town
short." of Salome.

• • ' • ' ' '

Old Jones store mid post office

35
Hall also began promoting a mine
north of the settlement, and he gave
this the ever glamorous name of the
Arizona Northern, or better known
U
j \ ADE WITH A LAUGH ON A UII.'EOOFA?H BY A BOUGH IJFCK as the Glory Hole. Litigation and
A BIGGER UNPAID CIRCULATION THAU LYPIA PIKKHAM'6 bad engineering advice tied up the
DICK WICK HALL, EDITOR - "PUT" DRAWS THE SCENERY mine for many years and therefore,
only the very rich "glory hole"
SALOME, YUMARESQiJE COUNTY, ARIZONA,
ores were ever extracted. For a
DEAfl "WHERE SHE DANCEU1"
further story on the mine, see
I Thank You' f o r t n » K i n d l y F e e l i n g whloh Desert, May 1985.
Prompted You t o w r i t e me Such a Nioe L e t t e r - and I
Want t o A p o l o g i z e f o r n o t b e i n g Able t o w r i t e You a Both of these ventures were to
Warm P e r s o n a l L e t t e r R i g h t Now, but So Many FolkB have be placed on the back burner when
b e e n s e n d i n g ire P o s t a l Soquata - or e l s a Wanting t o Dick decided that the railroad
Know How Do I Gat That Way - t h a t ona Corner o f t h e
Laughing Gas S t a t i o n i a A l l P l l a d up F u l l o f Unanswered under construction from Wickenburg
M a l l , and I c a n ' t Keep Up. I am a 100 M i l e s from Phoenix to Earp offerred attractive financial
and 300 from Los Angeloa and a l l tha Good ( l o o k i n g ) possibilities. Along with E.S.Jones
S t e n o g r a p h a r a a r e A f r a i d t o Come Hore t o Work f o r me on
a c c o u n t o f t h e Un Temad Cow Boya o r a l a a t h e y a r e j u a t he opened a store to supply the
J e a l o u s o f tha way Salome d a n c a a . needs of the railroad builders and
I d o n ' t know What E l s a t o Do, so I am g r i n d - their employees. This store was run
; I n g o u t t h i s Temporary E x p r e s s i o n o f My A p p r e c i a t i o n by Jones who had operated a simi-
I :•>-.. o f your W r i t i n g ma, w h i c h was good f o r Both o f
" <i -'-' Ua, a s F l o w e r s i s S o a r c e Out Here and i t i a Always lar one in Congress and Wickenburg.
tha B e s t Way t o Send - and to Gat - tha F l o w a r s Before
,' t h e F u n e r a l - which Most o f Us Never Do, a n d have t o During the next few years, Dick
Walt u n t i l A f t e r we a r e Dead t o Find Out What Fdlka spent much of his time promoting
t h o u g h t a b o u t u a . So I Thank You f o r t h e V e r b a l and oil, mining, and real estate in
Mental Floirora, i n c l u d i n g t h e Brlok B a t s and B o u l d e r s
which s o m e t i m e s oome a l o n g w i t h t h e B o q u a t s , and Some California, Utah, Louisana, Texas,
o f t h e s e d a y s , a s soon a s I oan Get Time, I w i l l and even Phoenix. But he always
w r i t e you a R e a l L e t t e r - mayba t h i s Year o r Next - ' " returned to his own town,Salome.
whioh i s P r o t t y Soon f o r t h i s o o u n t r y , where some
o f t h e Mountains axe Over a M i l l i o n Years Old and With the coming of the state
Look J u s t t h e Same l i k e t h e y d i d whan I f i r s t oorae MAMA
h e r e and P l a n t e d t h e C a c t u s i n A r i z o n a . highway, which paralleled the
railroad from Wickenburg, busi-
I t Kseps ce p r e t t y Busy Watering t h s
Frog and t e l l i n g Bed Time S t o r i e s to my Family ness picked up. Unfortunately,
o f Household P a t a , . w h i c h "Put" h a s made some l i t t l e this dictated a move for the town
P i c t u r e s h e r e o f f o r you to S e e , and in Between Times I as it was north of the railroad
p e d d l a Laughing Gas ar.d Gum and B u l l Durham to F o l k s
Going to - o r 5oair.~ From - C a l i f o r n i a by t h e B e s t <4 tracks and the highway was on
Shorteot Route. A l l T o u r i a t 6 e i t h e r Smoke the B u l l the south side. One of the
or e l s a t h s y P e d d l e i t - and I Do Both - f o r Over better known businesses was
30 Years - and So Long now t h a t I F e e l A l l Undressed
i f I h a v e n ' t Got a Sack o f B u l l Somewhere in my the Blue Rock Inne, operated
C l o t h e s - which i s about A n you need C l o t h e s f o r Here by the Jones family. The
i n t h e Suunser Time. Even My Frog l a P a r t B u l l . I have other was the auto garage.
g o t to Quit Now. I hoar a T o u r i s t H o l l e r i n g O u t s i d e
D p .. u . , _ where Sirro o f "Jy P a t s haa made him Climb a C a c t u s , The garage was on Hall's land
ncL> n u i which i s j u s t Their Way o f Having a L i t t l e Fun, and
PAPA I Don't Like to have Strangers Get Rough with My and he was a partner in the busi-
Cactus and Er9ak tha Thorns a l l Off. ness. Quickly, it became much
Yours, U n t i l the Frog Learns to Swim. more than a garage. Hall realized
that motor travel was here to stay
— ' •• , ADIOS, AUIGC:
HAPPINESS IS JUST i
so he set about planning to land
A STATE OF KIND, i more of the tourist business.
Calling on his knack for words
DICK WICK HALL
and his humor, he renamed the
garage "The Laffing Gas Station,"
and began publicizing it by means
of a unique, single sheet news-
paper, which he called the "SALOME
SUN," avowedly "Just for f u n -
made with a laugh on a memeograph
A W A R M t3A6 s < SEVEN YEARS OLD by a rough neck staff." This was, he
HOT AT BOTH EUDS CUwi> I N ANP i CAN'T S W I M
said, a first class newspaper-—
J'U SAY ITS DRY
"because it has to be sent out in an
envelope with a 2 cent stamp on it."

A page front the Salome Sun


36
Sign of the famous frog
(Anyone out there remember when
a letter cost 2 cents to mail?) And,
according to the masthead, the
newspapers main aim was "to make
you smile for half a mile."
Dick had his own wry, yet gentle
kind of fun poking wit that still is
easy on the ear and delights the
mind. His famous frog is an ex-
ample of that wit. This is what he
had to say of how it came into
being: Salome, Yumaresque County,
Arizona—"Where she danced"—
was dry long before Volstead was
weaned. The Lord initiated the
Dry Act here. We are not al-
together dry here, however. It
does rain once in a while, but
never twice. We had a big rain in
February. That was in the year 1904
or 1905, if I remember rightly.
The frog was not born here.
Neither was I. I found the egg up
in the Owens River Valley, near
Little Lake, California, in a
Slough back of Bill Bramlette's

Blue Rock Inne—early 1900's


37
GOLF COURSE EDITION SALOME SUH SALOME, ABIZOtTA.
place seven years ago, I thought
THK BLUE ROCK IMME'S FAliCUS GfiEASE'*OOD GOLF COUHSE. it was a wild duck egg, but on the
way home it hatched out a frog. I
L o c a t e d i n Korthv/est Yuir.aresqy.a C o u n t y , At a n d Around 'SALOME, ARIZ.,
"•Vhare Shs p a n c s t i " t h e " O r i g i n a l Red Hot llama Bear Foot Bare T r o t - raised him on a bottle, Shasta and
t h e 1 t h a t ilad? John t h e B a b t i s t Lose H i s Head. The Golf Course i s a Pluto water mostly, and that is
L i t t l e o v 2 r 33 t l i l e 3 Around a n d roik.3 -vho have P l a y s d i t s a y Uobody why he is such a lively and healthy
Kevsr Sa-.v i l c t h i n g Like i t Uo-.vhere P s f o r a . KO ARTIFICIAL HAZARDS ANY
WHERE OH THE COURSE - a s t h e r e a r e P l e n t y of N a t u r a l O n e s . Folks frog.
:
corns from A l l Over t h e V. orid t o £;"3nd t h e Season P l a y i n g Around i t
J u s t Once - a n d Some A l n t Got Around i t Y e t . S c o r e s r u n n i n g Over The Salome frog is 7 years old
1,000 a r e Co.L.i>on, a l s o E i r d i e s o f V a r i o u s K i n d s , E a g l s s , C o y o t e s & now and even though he can't swim
J a c k R a b b i t s - t u t H a b t r . t , Badgar a n d Coyoto H o l e s DON'T COUHT. Good
G u i d e s , Cadiya & Korc&3, C a n t e e n s , T e n t s & Carr.ping O u t f i t s L e a s e d by yet, it isn't his fault. He never had
t h e Seek, tonth o r Y a w , PROVIDED a S u b s t a n t i a l D e p o s i t i s Made a n d a chance but he lives in hopes.
ALL CADCYS & HORSES LOST OiJ THE COURSE "UST BE PAID FOR. A T r a v e l l - Three years ago, fourth of July,
i n g Barbor Shop o n t'.'.e C o u r s e Hakes t h e Rounds Each Month. Tourists
Al Vi
Palo Verde Pete shot off a box of
dynamite and the frog, thinking it
This Far A Fay Follows Across Table Top Mt. - 538. Rods was thunder, chased the cloud of
smoke two miles down the road,
Table -< Top Mountain thinking it might rain. He is
older and wiser now and getting
Bandit Canyon like the rest of the natives. He
Lost Squaw Mine Dead Horse Hills just sits and thinks. Sometimes I
wonder just what he thinks. He
probably thinks he is having a
hell of a time. MORAL—Even a
frog's tale can have a moral. If
Uj Here - so ara the world looks blue and your
Go! i Basin
the Prices luck is bad and you think you
are having a hell of a time
APACHE
PEAK why just stop and think of my
1
\f q Y ^ Don't Overplay frog-—seven years old and he
•V J
' , x this Hole can't swim."
' ••• ' V..-. s - i\
i \ Scorpion Ouleh. -"• - In case you might wonder a-
bout the origin of the name of
DAAIGES - T h i s i s t h e ' - - . the town, Salome, that was a-
' oust
Ui thing 2AD LA-:D3 nother subject that Dick liked to
• but Mar.y a. Brav^T i.ian h a s Died joke about and tell strangers
iv> I H i l l 1 Her3. CO :. 0T Ca.r.p Kara Alone
ar.d L o t s ; j t ."ia!it. Go to Lazy L or the tales about. The truth is that he
; a-^ ?
of I t \ Hip-0 Banch - Rough b u t Safe. named it after Mrs. Grace Salome
Along Here \ Pratt, the wife of a mining part-
^Flying V ner of his, Carl Pratt of Pittsburg.
IV ycorrals
Grace Valley was also named
after her.
Dick Wick Hall did more than
just make people smile. He made
them forget the many bumps and
ruts in the dirt highway that ran
past the Laffing Gas Station. He
also carried on a running battle
with Yuma, the State Highway
Commission, and other officals
0 TKA!JK
\G0Di
of the county to get better roads.
His methods were novel and
sometimes incendiary. In
] A.'tor Spending 2 Cr 3 'Vjjks - or i'icnths - addition to the SALOME SUN,
I fi.i h'ujr: KCCiC I:.":»E »111 Lock LikJ t n j 3ig he once had printed and distri-
n. i 3:..' t.".-:rj Jiot^l a.'.i Bjana & Baccn .fill buted red lettered hand bills
?2;)| Tj'.otJ lik,-- Oydtord a:U A l l i j a t c r ?.'ars,
that said: "DANGER! Don't go
S a t i s A^cordar-i t o '."hat You Havj A " i n t . by Yuma. Tourists are warned
not to attempt to go to Los
Angeles by way of Yuma—

Layout—Greaseivood Golf Course


38
100 miles out of the way and against the natural hazards of poison would rather live in Los Angeles or
through terrible sand dunes that waterholes, bandits, crouching taran- New York or Pittsburgh where they
drift like snow, where planks, tulas and Gila Monsters—and even can live seven years in one place and
brush and boards are used for jumping cactus. never know their neighbors and have
miles to keep cars from being to ride seven miles on a street car to
Dick Wick Hall passed away on
buried. Go by Blythe, the find someone they know to say hello
April 28, 1926 while on a trip to
shortest and best route. . ." to. Civilization is getting so compli-
Los Angeles. Thus Arizona lost one
Needless to say, the battle raged cated now days that hardly nobody
of her best humorists and
between the politicians in Yuma raises any cabbages and green onions
philosophers. One of his more
and the humorist in Salome. Even in their back yard no more. I
serious stories is about the town in
the YUMA SUN AND THE SALOME would rather live out here, lying on
which he lived. It tells a lot about
SUN exchanged unpleasantries. the soft side of a big granite rock,
the man and is as follows: "When
(Editors note: today Salome is in soaking up sunshine and satisfaction
people say what a place to live, I
La Paz County) away from the worries of the out-
feel sorry for them because I am
Another of Dick Wick's more famous finding something for which they side world where so many folks work
classics is the fictional Greasewood Golf are still seeking. So many say they so hard getting nowhere. I can get
would rather die than have to live to the same place out here so much
Course. It spoofs the game of gold
in a little town like Salome, where easier without working so hard."
while kidding the city dweller and their
exaggerated fears of the desert. It everybody knows everybody else,
boasts a 23 mile course laid out over because it is so lonesome here. They
some of the hottest, roughest acres in
Arizona, and he gravely warns players

Where Dick Wick Hall is buried

In Hop dress

39
Desert Magazine Book Shop
PLACE NAMES OF THE
DEATH VALLEY REGION ROADSIDE GEOLOGY SERIES
by
Each volume discusses the geology of a certain
T.S. Palmer geographic area, using access by road as their
A paperback reprint of a very basis for observation and visitation.
scarse book. The original print-
ing was limited to 200 copies. Arizona 9.95
Lists names of people, places, Northern California 9.95
things, etc. for the region, gives Colorado 9.95
location, origin of name, earliest
known source. A valuable reference Northern Rockies 9.95
work for the Death Valley fan. Texas 6.95
§7.50

NORTHWESTERN ARIZONA GHOST TOWNS by


Stanley W. Paher. Directions to and history about BOOKS FOR THE PROSPECTOR/GOLD MINER
23 of Arizona's most famqus ghost towns. His-
torical photographs and artist sketches enhance Dredging for Gold
editorial content. Large, 11x14 format, slick 7.95
paperback, 48 pages, $2.95. Everything You Wanted to Know about Gold 5.95
Gold Fever: The Art of Panning & Sluicing 3.50
Gold Panning is Easy 5.95
THE STERLING LEGEND by E. Conatser Where to Find Gold in the Mother Lode
A book about the famous Lost Dutchman 5.95
The Weekend Gold Miner 1.95
Mine of Arizona. Contains much informai Recreational Gold Prospecting
tion, photos, map. Paper. 4.95 8.95

DRY WASHING FOR GOLD


BOOKS FOR THE ROCKHOUND
A how, when, where, and why book on
waterless mining. Paper. 5.95
Rocks & Minerals of California 5.95
New Mexico Gem Trails 4.00
COLORADO RIVER GHOST TOWNS
Blue Gold: The Turquoise Story 4.95
Lists and briefly tells about numerous
Indian Jewelry Making 8.95
ghost towns adn mining camps along
Weekend Rock Hound 2.95
and near the Colorado River.
Western Gem Hunter.'s Atlas 5.00
Hardbound. 9.95
Gem Trails in California 2.95
Nevada—Utah Gem Atlas 3.00
SOUTHWESTERN ARIZONA GHOST TOWNS
Lists and briefly relates the story of many ghost
towns and mining camps of the Southwestern
GHOSTS OF THE ADOBE WALLS by Nell
part of Arizona. Paper, Large size. 2.95
Marburger. A reprint of her famous book
of stories and accounts of vanished towns &
INSIDE DEATH VALLEY by C. Gebhardt
camps of the Southwest. Paper. 9.95
The book on Death Valley, its resources,
wildlife, flora, geography, etc. A must for
any visitor to the valley. 5.95
TREASURE HUNTERS GHOST TOWN GUIDES
ARIZONA OFF THE BEATEN PATH
by T. Heatwole. Contains numerous trips by Theron Fox. Each booklet contains listings
to little known or out of the way places of ghost towns and a map of the state in the
in Arizona. She spent years going to each 1880's.
location. Paper. 5.00 Nevada 1.95
Utah 1.95
Eastern Calif. 1.95

40
DESERT MAGAZINE BOOK SHOP

NEVADA GHOST TOWNS AND MINING CAMPS TURQUOISE, GEM OF THE CENTURIES
by Stanley W. Paher. Covering all of Nevada's 17 Large size, beautiful color photographs. One
counties, the author has documented 575 mining of the best books on this colorful stone. 7.95
camps, many of which have been erased from the
earth. The book contains the greatest and most CENTRAL ARIZONA GHOST TOWNS
complete collection of historic photographs of Contains many listings of ghost towns and
Nevada ever published. Large 9 x 12 size, 700 mining camps of Central Arizona including
photographs. Hardbound. 30.00 Prescott, Congress, The Bradshaw Mountains
and more. Hardbound. 4.95
LOST MINES OF THE GREAT SOUTHWEST
by John D. Mitchell. The first of Mitchell's lost WHERE TO FIND GOLD IN THE DESERT
mine books is now available again. Reproduced by James Klein. Discusses areas of Calif. &
from the original and contains 54 articles based Arizona where gold can be found, how to
on accounts from people Mitchell interviewed. prospect, pan, stake a claim. Paper. 4.95
He spent his entire adult life investigating reports
and legends of lost mines and treasures of the
Southwest. $10.00

GHOSTS OF THE GLORY TRAIL by Nell


Murbarger. A pioneer of the ghost town
explorers and writers, she wrote many articles Desert Magazine Book Shop
for DESERT MAGAZINE. This is a fast- A Gift of Books Will Be Remembered Long After
moving chronicle of personal interviews of the Occasion is Forgotten.
Name_
old-timers who are no longer here to tell I Add res:
their tales. 12.95 I City _State_
enrlose $ frherk mnnev order or charge)
DESERT GEM TRAILS by Mary Frances
Strong. One of the most popular and author-
\1Y CHARGE Q gg DTsr
itative books on the Mojave and Colorado Deserts
for the rockhound. Detailed milage, maps,
Credit Card No.
1 1 1
landmarks, history, and photographs make
Expiration Date
Month A'ear 7~ MasterChar;
Interbank \
this booklet a must. Paper 2.50
Signature
(charge not valid unless signed)
LOST MINES & BURIED TREASURES ALONG
THE OLD FRONTIER by John D. Mitchell. The
second of Mitchell's books. Many stories have
appeared in past issues of DESERT. This is the
result of many years of research. 12.00

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41
Great Way to Save
The editor of DESERT MAGAZINE welcomes the experiences
Your Back Issues of and opinions of readers (and desert lovers) and will publish as
Desert Magazine many letters as space permits. Letters to the Editor should be
addressed to us at P. O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif. 92261.
No unsigned letters will be considered, but names will be with-
held upon request. The only exception would be the man
who found the Pegleg Gold who may remain unknown.

Magazine • Since 1937


The best way that we know
of to preserve and protect
those issues you want to
save—Desert Magazine's
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in brown vinyl with gold
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42
T/V i* *

between Ifou and Mi

^ PfM*^5i ^
BY: D.W. GRANTHAM

First, a note to all our loyal subscribers and in particular to the librarians among us—This issue, January—February 1985
is Volume 49, Number 1. There is no Volume 48, Number 6 as this issue was delayed by the Christmas holidays and we
decided to incorporate parts of it into this issue. All subscription expiration dates have been revised to account for this
change. At present, DESERT MAGAZINE will be mailed in the odd numbered months. In this way, you should receive
your copies earlier and there will be no long delay during the Christmas season.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

On page two of this issue is a preview of coming attractions. We have lined up some very interesting and unique articles.
The list is not complete—there are many more subjects we will be covering, but could not list them due to the limited
amount of space on a page. The uncoming articles on Arizona Ghost Towns and the Gold Park, California article promise
to be excellent. As always, DESERT MAGAZINE will accept articles from its readers and any other knowledgable party
who cares to submit one. The rules are on the bottom of page 3.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Starting in the next issue will be the return of one of the favorite columns of many readers—letters to the editor. Do you
have a question?? Or a comment?? Or maybe you would like to discuss a subject. Drop us a line. A self-addressed stamped
envelope will be required for a reply.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

We have received a lot of mail recently with many letters asking the same question—Is DESERT MAGAZINE in print.
Obviously the answer is yes, yet many of our former readers do not know about us. If you happen to know anyone who
is a desert lover, please let them know about Desert. For 1985, we would like to have a healthy increase in subscribers.
We are at a point now where more subscribers will enable us to increase the frequency of publication with no increase in
cost. Simply put,that means the more subscribers we get, the more issues you get.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Am wondering what the weather will be like for the next few months. Here on the desert, we have had a lot of rain, and yes,
even some snow. If the rainfall keeps up, then this could be a good year for the wildflowers. Will let you know how this
progresses. There has been so much development in the Coachella Valley that there will be little area left for the Sand
Verbena and the Primrose. I wonder if the Federal Government has such a thing as an endangered flower? I am afraid that
we will have to look to the foothills of San Diego, Northern Los Angeles, and Kern County for Wildflowers in the future.
And of course, selected parts of the Desert such as Joshua Tree National Monument and Anza Borrego.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

43