Two Basic

Stitches
Viking Stitchery
Hefdharkona Reyni-Hrefna
Whip-Stitch
Running Stitch
1
2
How much stress
can the seam take?
3
HOw much does it protect
from unraveling?
4
HOw bulky is it?
5
Think like a hand sewer
not like a machine.
Seams with no Lining
Single Stitch UNder Stress
Whip stitch, edges butted. Fur seam
Also found in Viborg ->
Running stitch, edges fnished with whip stitch,
not turned (with an included couched thread
in Skjodeham).

Running-stitch, edges fnished with whip stitch,
edges turned in.
Edges turned once and secured with whip stitch, then
pieces joined with whip stitch
Edges turned once, large fold, and secured at
fold with whip stitch, then pieces joined with
whip stitch.
Edges turned twice, fold secured down with whip stitch,
pieces joined with whip stitch
This seam is normally almost invisible on the
face side, so that the seam on the drawing is
exaggerated to make it clearer. It is also almost
invisible on the back side of the fabric because
the stitches only go half through the fabric.
The other seam seen to the right is an overcast
stitch fastening the seam allowance on the
back side. Usually these stitches go over another
laid thread (couching). This seam is also almost
invisible on the face side.
S1
S2
S3
S4
S5
S6
Hb
Hb
Hb
Hb
Hb
Hb
Sk
Sk
Vb
Backstitch
S7
Vb
Seams with no Lining
Double Stitch Under Stress
Two edges superimposed, whipstitch stitched along the edges.
Whip stitch to join, both edges folded down and whip stitched.
Whip stitch to join, both edges folded down once and secured with
a running stitch.
Edges interlocked, whip stitch on folds. Flat fell seam
D1
D2
D3
D4
D5
D6
Running stitch, with one edge longer then the other, fold over
with longer edge at top, fold longer edges up towards original seam,
secure along fold with whip stitch. (raw edge left free)
Hb
Hb
Hb
Vb
Hb
Hb
D7
Running stitch to join, both cut edges folded in same direction
and secured down with whip stitch.
(I have not found original souce for this yet)
Running stitch, with one edge
longer then the other, fold over
with longer edge at top, fold
longer edges sown towards
original seam, secure along fold
with whip stitch. (raw edge in seam)
Attach A Lining
Lining ends in middle of outside fabric
Lining and outside fabric joined without seam
Edge of lining fnished with whip stitch. Outside fabric
folded back along line where lining is to be attached.
Joined with whip stitch, outside fabric opened.
Both pieces folded back along join line, joined with whip stitch
and opened after.
L1
L2
L3
L4
Both pieces folded back along join line, joined with whip stitch
and opened after.
Vb
Vb
Hb
Hb
Lining folded under, outside fabric
folded along line where lining is to be
attached. A modifed running stitch is
used to join, with the lining being
skiped by stitches in one direction,
and gone through in the other.
This produces a hybrid
running/whip stitch. With the structure
of the outside seam being like a
running stitch, and the lining seam
being likea whip stitch.
Make a small fold in lining, running stitch to
secure fold to outside fabric.
Attach A Lining
Self-lined
Lining and outside fabric joined at same place
Similar to L3, but fabric stays folded, and the same continious
piece is lining and outside.
L5
L6
L7
Hb
Vb
Vb
Similar to L2, but there
is a lining on both sides.
Lining is skiped on entry,
gone through on exit.
Similar to L2, but outside fabric is
also a seam. Edge of outside fabric
is fnished with a double fold and a
running seam creating a ridge in side
with no visible stitching on the outside.
Hems
Narrow rolled hem, whip stitching over hem.
Cut edge folded once and whip stitched on raw edge.
Cut edge folcedover twice and whipstitched.
also in Viborg ->
Cut edge as at H3, with additional row of running stitch.
Single folded edge with herringbone stitch.
Single row of running stitch, no folding.
Blanket stitch
Edge with lining and facing (Viborg neck)
Similar to L2, with facing joined at end of
lining and outside fabric. Facing is then folded
over and whip stitched to lining.
1d
2u
3u
4d/1
Vb
Vb
Sk
Sk
Hb
Hb
Hb
Hb
Hb
Hb
H1
H2
H3
H4
H5
H6
H7
H8
H9
Other
Darts!!! With a couched braid on
outside of garment.
Casing for drawstring
Decorative re-inforcement
u1 d2
u3
d4 u5
d6
u7
d8
u9
d10 u11
d12
O1
O2
O3
O4
O5
Hb
Hb
Sk
Sk
Sk
Sk
Sk
Vb
Hb
Nye tanker om Skjoldehamnfunnet
Dan Halvard Lvlid
Masteroppgave i arkeologi
Institutt for AHKR
http://www.lofotr.no/pdf/Skjoldhamnfunnet/Nye%20tanker%20om%20Skjoldehamnfunnet.pdf
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Viborg/SEAMS.HTM
An 11th century linen shirt from Viborg
By Mytte Fentz
translated by Maggie Mulvaney
Drawings: P. Nrbo, Jrgen Kragelund
Photos: Ove Madsen
Summary translation: Peter Crabb
References:
This article appeared as "En hrskjorte fra 1000-renes Viborg" in KUML 1987;
rbog for Jysk Arklogisk Selskab
See also:
Af skjortens saga, Mytte Fentz. Skalk 1989, nr.1
An 11th Century Shirt from Viborg Snders,
Denmark. Article by Mytte Fentz in
"Archaeological Textiles in Northern Europe -
Report from the 4th NESAT Symposium.
Ed: Lise Bender Jrgensen and Elisabeth Munksgaard.
Tindens Tand 1992, nr. 5 pp 83-92
Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu
Von Inga Hgg
mit Beitrgen von Gertrud Grenander Nyberg und Helmut Schweppe
Modern Stitch Diagrams (cover page)
http://www.fber-images.com/Free_Things/Reference_Charts/free_reference_charts_handsewing_stitches.html
http://www.42nd-dimension.com/NFPS/nfps_stitches.html
Sources
Sk 11th Century
Vb 11th Century
Hb 7-10th Century