ECO-FIBRES AND ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILES

R.B. Chavan,
ABSTRACT
One of the themes which is dominating the present decade is the Environmental
issues: Technology options for textile industry. The present article briefly discusses the
development of few eco-fibres. One of the eco-friendly regenerated cellulosic fibres
which is becoming popular particularly in ladies fashion wear is yocell! obtained by
regeneration of cellulose using eco-friendly solvent "-methyl morpholine oxide. #n the
category of eco-fibres mention must also be made of synthetic polyester fibre based on
polymeri$ation of lactic acid obtained from corn as a renewable source. %mong the
natural fibres! organic cotton obtained by cultivation of cotton without the use of
fertili$ers and pesticides is gaining popularity. Those who are deeply concerned about the
pollution and health ha$ard problems associated with synthetic dyes are propagating the
use of naturally coloured cotton.
#n addition to eco-fibres! presently ma&or emphasis is given to eco-friendly production
technologies where the concept of cradle to grave or womb to tomb is followed. 'arious
countries are propagating the use of eco-labels for identification of environment friendly
textiles. The present paper critically discusses the environment friendly technology
options available for textile industry.
1. ORGANIC COTTON
The cotton fbre, in its pure form, and also in blends, is the
principal clothing fbre of the world, accounting for about 50% of total
world fbre production. (otton cultivated without the use of synthetic fertili$ers!
pesticides and all other plant chemicals is )nown as organic cotton. To determine the
environmental impact connected to a product! it is necessary to do the ife (ycle
%nalysis *(%+! with a ,cradle- to-grave- approach. The first step of this concept includes
agricultural activities. .rom this point of view the conventional cotton is not eco-friendly
in the true sense because of the use of ha$ardous chemicals in the form of fertili$ers!
pesticides and other plant chemicals used during the cultivation. Therefore! though cotton
is natural fibre! beneath it lays a long chain of chemically
intensive."unnatural"processes. To bring this delicate plant to harvest! it is heavily
sprayed - / to 01 times a season in extreme cases - with pesticides so poisonous they
gradually render fields barren! and pose a serious threat to the human! plant and a2ualtic
life. #t is &ust the beginning. Once the cotton is grown! ginned and manufactured! the
textile processing necessary for aesthetics and desirable properties! re2uires the use of
numerous environmentally dangerous materials. At least 8,000 chemicals are used to turn
raw material into final product. many of which are toxic and classified by the World Health
Organisation (WHO as moderately ha!ardous to extremely ha!ardous.
1.1.PESTICIDES
1.1.1 Fat! an" F#$ur%!
Total cotton cultivation area in more than 31 countries is /1 million hecatres.
Of all pesticides used globally each year! pesticides used in cotton alone
ranges upto 456.
Total pesticide consumption in third world countries accounts for about 711
million )ilograms. Out of which 051 million )ilograms is consumed in cotton
crop.
"umber of pesticides presently on the mar)et: 811
9esticide-related illnesses among farm wor)ers in :.;.%. each year:
%pproximately 711!111.
"umber of people in the :.;. who die each year from cancer related to pesticides:
01!811.
%n estimated 45 million people worldwide are poisoned by pesticides every year!
which translates to 8/ per minute.
The list of tragic accidents involving chemicals used on cotton! however! is
lengthy.
The 0</8 gas lea) at the :nion (arbide factory in =hopal! #ndia - which included
chemicals used on cotton - spea)s to the 2uestion of pollution during
manufacturing.
The toll on ecosystems is also staggering.=irds are experiencing birth defects in
record numbers.
>eveloping countries are the fastest growing pesticide mar)ets! where health and
environmental regulations are extremely limited! and a great deal of the
poisonings ta)e place.
1.2 Organic pest control
Organic farmers around the world are showing that there is no need to rely on
dangerous chemicals. =lac) ants )eep caterpillars and other pests under control in
:ganda. #n other countries! mixtures of natural soap! chilli and extracts from local trees
are used to repel pests. 9est! weed and disease control is achieved through crop rotation.
(rop rotation is at the core of organic farming! providing nutrients to the soil! helping
prevent pest! weed and disease problems and maintaining the soil fertility.

1.& '() *ar+%r! ,%n%*#t *r(+ (r$an# (tt(n
?esearch by the 9esticide %ction "etwor) in sub-;aharan %frica *=enin! ;enegal!
Tan$ania! :ganda and @imbabwe+ found that most farmers reported less illness during
the rainy season after switching to organic cotton growing. .ield observations confirm
that organic cotton fields have significantly higher numbers of insect species than
conventional ones! especially those that are beneficial.
.armers growing cotton organically are able to reduce their overhead costs and
the li)elihood of getting into debt. They tend to grow on a smaller scale than
conventional cotton growers and do not use expensive harvesting machines or large
2uantities of chemical inputs. This results in improved soil fertility and a higher 2uality of
cotton being produced and pic)ed. ;ome farmers are reporting higher incomes as a result
of farming organically.
1.- Or$an# (tt(n .r("ut#(n
There is a growing demand for organic cotton in various parts of the world. The organic
cotton production in different countries is shown in the following table
1.
Ta,l% 1 /(rl" Or$an# C(tt(n Pr("ut#(n 1001-1002 3#n t(n!4
C(untr5 1001 100& 100- 1006 1007 1002
%rgentina 4 041 043 074 A1
%ustralia 8A< 511 A51 811 511 811
=enin 5
=ra$il 4 < 0 5 5
Egypt 7/ 080 5</ 311 351 371
Breece 851 511 8A5 811
#ndia 413 43/ 7</ <4< <11 <71
#srael 011 011 51
Co$ambi2ue <1 <1 51
"icaragua 03 41 41 41
9araguay 011 A5 51 51 51
9eruD 811 A11 <48 0!503 0!511 351
;enegal 4 71 41
Tur)ey 071 0</ 301 A41 A51 /11
Tan$ania 77 011 011 411
:ganda 03 051 451 711 /11
:nited
;tates
4!055 8!4A8 5!735 A!845 7!7<3 4!/54
@ambia 75 71 71
@imbabwe 5
TOT% 7!81/ 3!410 <!8</ 04!/38
<!14/ A!<3A
1001 100& 100- 1006 1007 1002
Source: Agricola Partners, Pesticides Trust
1.6 Pr(%!! (* C%rt#*#at#(n
% person see)ing organic certification has to submit an organic farm plan to a :;>%
accredited private or state certification programme. The plan must contain all the
information about the current growing or handling methods and materials used. The plan
must also cover future intensions and improvements to all areas of production. Coreover
the plan must show that harvesting practices will not be destructive to the environment or
to the future productivity of the crop. The :;>% further re2uires the records of all
management practices and materials used in organic production must be )ept for five
years. (rop can only be labeled as certified when it is grown on land! which has been free
of prohibited substances for three years prior to harvest. (rops grown on land in
transition to organic *during the first three years after switching from conventional
farming+ cannot be labeled as organic.
1.7 Th% +ar8%t *(r (r$an# t%9t#l%!
Over the last five years the :; and (anada has experienced a 44 per cent increase
in organic textiles sales
Over the next five years the :; predicts a 88 per cent growth in organic clothing
sales! with baby products to be the next ma&or growth area.
Over the last five years expenditure on organic cotton textile products has
increased by 31 per cent in Europe.
Over the last two years! sales of organic and environmentally-friendly textile
products have increased by 41 per cent in the :E..
1. NAT:RALLY COLO:RED COTTON
The cotton that grows with natural colours during cultivation is )nown as
naturally coloured cotton i.e. the colour is obtained without the use of natural or synthetic
dyes. The naturally coloured cottons are )nown over 5111 years but because of the
availability of inexpensive synthetic dyes in numerous colours and also the need for
higher outputs in spinning! weaving! naturally coloured cotton went out of cultivation.
The present wave for environment protection has given impetus to the cultivation of
naturally coloured cottons in various shades li)e green! brown! tan! yellow! pin) etc. Out
of these! green and brown varieties are most common and cultivated in countries li)e
:;%! #srael! (hina! ?ussia! 9eru! Cexico %ustralia and #ndia.
The basic reasons why naturally coloured cotton could not thrive in the
commercially competitive mar)ets were problems related to low fibre length and
fineness! very poor spinnability! non avilability in desired colours! poor colour fastness to
washing! rubbing! perspiration! light! bleaching agents etc. The yield per acre is low
along with other problems such as availability of seeds. Fowever on envrinmental
considerations! presently attempts are being made to revive the cultivation of naturally
coloured cotton for the production of eco friendly textiles without the use of toxic
synthetic dyes and chemicals.
Earlier due to its low strength and poor spinnability naturally coloured cotton was
used for the production of yarns upto 01s and 04s count suitable for home textiles and
coarser outer wears. Fowever! the research in the last 05 years in cotton breeding has led
to improvement in yield! fibre fineness! length and strength and also the intensity of
colours. such cottons are suitable for spinning yarns upto 71s and 81s counts which can
be used for )nitting and weaving of both men and ladies outer and inner garments.
2.1 cultivation of coloured cotton
There are many countries where naturally coloured cotton is cultivated. The most
important are 9eru! :;%! %ustralia and #ndia.
The production of naturally colured cotton in some of the countries is given in table 4
Ta,l% 1 Pr("ut#(n (* naturall5 (l(ur%" (tt(n
(untr5 .r("ut#(n 3t(n!4 ar%a 3ha4
Au!tral#a 1;;; 7;;
I!ra%l 6;; &;;
P%ru 1;; 27
:SA 16;; 2-;
In"#a n( auth%nt# *#$ur%!
1.1 P%ru
9eru constitute by far the largest producers of naturally cloured cotton. % 9eruvian
"BO! ;ociedad de #nvestigaciGn de la (iencia! (ultura y %rte "orteHo *;#(%"+! is
wor)ing for the revival! conservation and use of native coloured cottons as a rural
development strategy to support indigenous farmers and traditional artisans. The "ative
(otton 9ro&ect! sponsored by ;#(%" since 0</8! estimates that as many as 05!111
traditional farmers still cultivate coloured cotton varieties! while over 51!111 women still
spin and weave native cotton fibres. 'irtually all native coloured cotton is produced
without synthetic fertili$ers or pesticides! employing traditional systems of pest control.
Cost coloured cotton grows in the form of a perennial shrub. #n areas where sub-surface
water is available! it can grow up to 5 meters high! with annual yields of over 01
)ilograms per plant. #t is remar)ably pest and disease resistant! and thrives in marginal
soils with little or no rainfall.
;ix principal varieties yielding cotton of cream! tan! medium brown! reddish
brown! chocolate brown and mauve colours are cultivated. %ll bolls are hand pic)ed.
Cuch of the lint is destined for craft production and domestic consumption within the
rural villages where it is harvested! but a significant 2uantity in the form of finished
products is circulated in popular urban mar)ets.
The naturally coloured products are mar)eted internationally by the company
"aturetex under the trade names Pakucho, Morrope, Native Cotton and Vicuna Cotton.
The products are certified by the >utch foundation! ;E%, owner of the prestigious EEO
2uality symbol.
1.& Au!tral#a
Ieff J Carilyn =idstrup! a couple with a bac)ground of agriculture! pioneered %ustralian
coloured cotton. #n partnership with other farmers ! they became %ustralia-s first
commercial producers of naturally coloured cotton. The commercial crop was grown
over an area of approximately 4111 acres. The colour range is centralised around green
and brown. =lending these colours with each other and with white provides a wide
selection of options. (olour retention and fastness has been found to be comparable with
accepted apparel standards
1.- :SA
#n :;% naturally colored cotton reappeared as a fashion item in the early 0<<1-s.
=ig :.;. clothing manufactures such as 9atagonia! evi ;trauss and Esprit as well as
several European companies began to buy environment friendly natural coloured cotton
apparels.
The credit for introducing coloured cotton in :;% goes to Cs. ;ally .ox who
rediscovered a small amount of brown cotton seeds in 0</4. .ox began to research
creating a commercially viable long staple length colored cotton suitable for present day
looms. .ox successfully bred and mar)eted varieties of naturally coloured cotton light
brown! reddish brown! sage green. These fibres are patented under the name of
.ox.iberK.
;ally .ox is associated with %thena Cills. #t is recogni$ed as a leader within the
industry for two environmentally descriptive trademar)s - (olorganicK and (olour-=y-
"atureK. =oth mar)s ensure the final productDs color is from naturally colored cotton.
(olorganic additionally ensures certified organic growing practices for all of the cotton
fibers in the final product. .ox .ibre offers consumers an ecological alternative in cotton:
todayDs purchase for tomorrowDs environment.
1.6 In"#a
The growing interest for eco-friendly products worldwide! coupled with the ban imposed
on a$o dyes and other chemicals has )indled the hopes of the growers! who had ta)en to
cultivation of the naturally-coloured cotton in a big way in the late <1s.
The (ottton 9ro&ect at the college of agriculture! Ehandwa and :niversity of
%gricultural ;ciences! >harwad! are engaged in research on the various aspects to boost
the production and productivity of cotton. #n 0<<3! these centres have been successful in
developing a variety of cotton having natural almond brown! cream and light green. =ut
agriculture scientists anticipate a few problems. The cultivation of coloured cotton may
result in the cross pollination of the white cotton fields resulting in their contamination.
Fowever! this can be prevented by growing coloured varieties in isolated patches. .or
this legislation would be necessary to ensure 2uality of the coloured cotton and to prevent
the contamination or misuse of the seed. The coloured cotton plant physically resembles
normal cotton. (oloured cotton varieties are insect and disease-resistant and are also
drought tolerant.
:nfortunately no textile industry has shown interest in this eco-friendly fibre. To
commerciali$e cultivations! the cultivators plan to involve voluntary organi$ations and
the local industries in the promotion of coloured cotton.
&. LYOCELL
yocell is the generic name for a regenerated cellulosic fibre obtained by spinning
of dissolved wood pulp in an organic solvent
5
. The solvent spinning techni2ue so adopted
is totally environment friendly. The name ,lyocell-! fixed in 0</< for solvent spun fibres
A
owes its genesis to the Bree) word lyein *meaning dissolve+ from which comes lyo and
cell from cellulose. This name is recogni$ed as the generic name by =#;.% *#nternational
=ureau for the ;tandardi$ation of rayon and synthetic fibres +! =russels and the .ederal
Trade (ommission *:;%+
/
. This fibre which too) 03 years for its development with
investment of :; L 511 million! is now made by different fibre manufacturers under
different names.
&.1 Ra) +at%r#al
The raw material used for the manufacture of lyocell is wood which is rapidly renewable
natural source. This source is free from the environmental problems associated with the
cultivation of cotton such as the use of large 2uantities of non-eco friendly synthetic
fertili$ers! pesticides! herbicides! insecticides etc. The plant chemicals used for wood
plantation put much less environmental burden.
&.1 Pr("ut#(n .r(%!!
The starting material for lyocell and viscose are the same i.e. wood pulp! but the
manufacturing processes are different. No cellulose derivative is formed in the former,
hile viscose ra!on manufacturing involves formation of intermediate derivative and
non-environment friendly byproducts. yocell is manufactured by a direct dissolving
process using an organic cyclic polar solvent namely "-methyl morpholine-"- oxide
*"CCO! O*(8F3+"O(F7+. This solvent is non-toxic and is easily recovered and
recycled. The se2uence of operations involved in conversion of wood to wood pulp is
shown in .igure 0

F#$. 1 Fr(+ T#+,%r t( Ch%+#al .ul.
&.& D#!!(lut#(n (* )((" .ul. an" *#,r% r%$%n%rat#(n
The wood pulp containing <36 cellulose has >9 of A51. The starting point of the
process is suspension of approximately 076 cellulose! 416 water and 3A6 "CCO. The
dissolution of cellulose in "CCO is done at 041
1
( with high speed stirring! resulting in
highly viscous solution. The viscous solution is filtered and then extruded into an
a2ueous spinning bath through spinnerets where the cellulose is precipitated in the form
of fibres. %s the solvent is washed out! the fibre in the form of fine filaments are collected
as tow! from which the staple fibre is produced. The regeneration and the washing baths
containing "CCO are collected separately. The "CCO is concentrated by evaporation
of water and recycled. The solvent recovery is <<.56.The evaporated water is used for
the washing of regenerated fibres.
The process is schematically shown in .igure 4. .
F#$. 1 L5(%ll +anu*atur% .r(%!!
&.- Env#rn+%nt *r#%n"l#n%!! (* L5(%ll
&.-.1 S(lv%nt
#n the production process for yocell! "-methyl morpholine-"-oxide is used as the
solvent. This substance belongs to the amine oxide group which has been used for some
time as an active washing component in body care productsM its applications in cellulose
production is new. "umerous tests have passed this material as safe from a
dermatological and toxicological point of view.
&.-.1 T(9#(l($#al a!.%t
<<.56 of the solvent is recycled within the process! ma)ing the fibre production
extremely eco-friendly. 'ery small 2uantities of "CCO emitted via waste water are
readily degraded in the biological waste water treatment plants.
The 2uantity of chemicals used in the process of manufacturing lyocell! do not
pose environmental concerns. Naste water when purified by a biological waste water
treatment plant contains only small amounts of organic chemicals and salt! mainly
sodium sulphate. The (O> per )g of fibre produced only 00g and the salt load 471 gm.
Emissions into air are of similarly small magnitude.
&.-.& Eur(.%an a)ar" *(r th% %nv#r(n+%nt
#n >ecember 4111 the yocell production facility in =urgenland
was selected from amongst /5 candidates and awarded the OEuropean
%ward for the EnvironmentO in the O ;ustainable >evelopmentO category.
This award is conferred by the European :nion for the development and
application of new production technology which ma)es an exceptional
contribution towards sustainable ecological development and preferably
ma)es a positive contribution in the economic and social field.
&.-.- <=OTEX 1;; - "C(n*#"%n% #n T%9t#l%!"
The P)otex 011 seal of 2uality stands for O(onfidence in TextilesO. and is used to
designate textiles free from toxic substances. Textiles which bear the P)otex label are
produced in proven environmentally-friendly conditions - in the production process care
is given to )eeping the waterways and air clean as well as to manufacturing high 2uality
products. Coreover the consumer is guaranteed the highest possible wear comfort as a
result of the lac) of toxic substancesM this labelling covers disposal in an environmentally
friendly manner as part of the cycle from wood through to finished articles of clothing.
This combination of production! human and disposal ecology 2ualifies yocell for the
P)otex 011 seal of 2uality.
&.6 L5(%ll *#,%r harat%r#!t#!
yocell is an exceptionally strong fiber. #n a dry state! it is significantly stronger than
other cellulosics! including cotton! and approximates the strength of polyester. #n a wet
state! yocell retains /56 of its dry strength and is the only man-made cellulosic to
exceed the strength of cotton in a wet state. %gain! its dry and wet tenacity translates into
exceptionally strong yarns and fabrics. yocell has a very high modulus! which means
low shrin)age in water. Thus! fabrics and garments made from yocell demonstrate very
good stability when washed.

Ta,l% & C(+.ar#!(n (* *#,r% .r(.%rt#%!
PROPERTY LYOCELL >ISCOSE '/? COTTON@ POLYESTER
denier 0.5 0.5 0.5 -- 0.5
tenacity*gQden+ 8./ - 5.1 4.3 - 7.0
8.0 -
8.7
4.8 - 4.< 8./ - 3.1
elongation *6+ 08 - 03 41 - 45 07 - 05 A - < 88 - 85
wet tenacity
*gQden+
8.4 - 8.3 0.4 - 0./
4.7 -
4.5
7.0 - 7.3 8./ - 3.1
wet elongation
*6+
03 - 0/ 45 - 71 07 - 05 04 - 08 88 - 85
water
imbibition *6+
35 <1 A5 51 7
&.7 A..l#at#(n!
The applications includes sportswear! casual wear *denim! chino! chambray etc+!
fashionable ladies garments! mens shirts! luxurious peach s)in finishes in &ersey and
)nitwear etc. =esides apparels! lyocell can also be available in home products including
bath towels! sheets! pillowcases etc. #t also has industrial applications in ma)ing wipes!
medical swabs and gau$es! filters! bicomposites ! battery separators etc.
-. SYNT'ETIC FIBRE FRO? CORN
(urrent predictions are that population level will approximately double every 75 years or
so. Their needs will strain the worlds manufacturing resources *especially oil+ to the
utmost. #n conse2uence oil will become a scarce commodity and textile fibres derived
from it may be given lower priority than that accorded to more easily recogni$ed uses
such as transportation! aerospace! Feavy chemical industries etc. #n addition to cope up
with the depleting resources! there would be serious environment deterioration as most of
the synthetic fibres produced to day are non-biodegradable. %ttempts are therefore being
made to find renewable sources as a raw material for textile production to ta)e care of
depleting fossil fuel resources and synthesi$e biodegradable polymers for environment
protection. One of the biodegradable synthetic fibres based on poly lactic acid is
manufactured by using renewable source corn as raw material.
-.1 P(l5lat# a#" *#,r%!
#n 0<<8 Eanebo *Iapan+ has introduced the Latr(n fibre for spun led non-woven
and for blending with rayaon.
(argill >ow polymers which was started in 0<<A! is the leader in the technology
of polylactic acid *9%+. 9lastic grade polymer is produced under the trade name "ature
wor)s pla! and fibre grade polymer #ngeo
-.1 Pr("ut#(n r(ut%
% new synthetic biodegradable polymer is obtained from the renewable source
such as corn #t is also possible to use other plant materials such as rice! wheat! sugar beets
and even agricultural waste. The steps involved in the production of Latr(n or Natur%
/(r8! PLA AIn$%( fibre are as follows
-.1.1 R%n%)a,l% r%!(ur%
% renewable resource such as corn is milled! separating starch from the raw
material. :nrefined dextroseQsugar! in turn! is processed from starch.
-.1.1 F%r+%ntat#(n
The dextroseQsugar is turned into lactic acid using a fermentation process similar
to that used by beer and wine producers.
-.1.& Int%r+%"#at% .r("ut#(n
Through a special condensation process! a cyclic intermediate dimer! referred to
as lactide! is formed.
-.1.- P(l5+%r .r("ut#(n
This monomer lactide is purified through vacuum distillation. ?ing opening
polymeri$ation of the lactide is accomplished with a solvent free melt process.
-.1.6 Ch%+#!tr5
-.1.7 ?("#*#at#(n t( u!t(+%r n%%"!
% wide range of products that vary in molecular weight and crystallinity can be
produced for wide range of applications.
-.& ?ar8%t O..(rtun#t#%!
9% currently finds demand in three mar)et areas: fibers! pac)aging! and
chemical products. 9% fibers combine the comfort and feel of natural fibers with the
performance of synthetics. The fibre properties are summari$ed in Table 7
Ta,l% - Su++ar5 (* F#,%r Pr(.%rt#%!
"ibers
#roperty
$ylon % #&' Acrylics #(A )ayon *otton +il, Wool
+pecific
gra-ity
.../ ..01 ...8 ..23 ..32 ..32 ..0/ ..0.
'enacity
(g4d
3.3 %.0 /.0 %.0 2.3 /.0 /.0 ..%
5oisture
regain (6
/.. 0.27
0./
..072.0 0./70.% .. 8.3 .0 ./7.8
&lastic
reco-ery
(36 strain
81 %3 30 10 02 32 32 %1
"lammability 5edium High
smo
,e
5edium (ow
smo,e
9urns 9urns 9urns 9urns
slowly
:;
resistance
#oor "air &xcellent &xcellent #oor "air7
poor
"air7
poor
"air
Wic,ing ((7W
slope< higher
slope, more
wic,ing
= 0.87
0.8
(no
finis
h
= %.078.3
(no
finish
.172%
(with
finish
= =
"OTE: gQdRgrams per denierM -NRucas-Nashburn E2uationsM
9ETRpoly*ethyleneterphalate+
The uni2ue property spectrum of 9% fibers allows the creation of products
with superior hand and touch! drape! comfort! moisture management! ultraviolet *:'+
resistance! and resilience. (ombining these performance features with the features of
natural fibers enables 9% to be used in a wide spectrum of products including
apparel! carpet! nonwoven fiberfill! and household and industrial mar)ets
-.- E+%r$#n$ a..l#at#(n!
(argill dow is also exploring and developing emerging applications such as:
Bl() +(l"#n$ in&ection stretch blow molded bottles.
E+ul!#(n! water based emulsions for paper and board coatings and! paints! binders for
non- woven fabrics! binders for building products and adhesives.

Lat# a#" "%r#vat#v%! To be used as chemical intermediates in products such as
solvents! hot melt adhesives! coatings! surfactants! acrylic esters and agricultural
intermediates.
-.6 Env#r(n+%ntal ,%n%*#t! an" "#!.(!al (.t#(n!
-.6.1 R%"u% *(!!#l *u%l u!%
(onventional hydrocarbon polymers utili$e natural reserves of oil and natural gas
as their feedstoc) source. #n contrast the monomer for 9% is derived from annually
renewable resource. Energy from the sun and carbon dioxide from air are harnessed in
agricultural crops. *.igure 4+ One third of the energy re2uirement of 9% is derived these
renewable resources.! resulting in 9% utili$ing 41-816 less fossil fuel than other
polymers derived directly from hydrocarbons.
F#$.1 C5l% (* Latr(n 3PLA4
-.6.1 Car,(n 5l%
(arbon dioxide is believed to be a ma&or contributor to global warming. =ecause carbon
dioxide is removed from the air when corn is grown! the use of 9% has the potential to
result in a reduced impact on global warming compared to most hydrocarbon based
polymers *fig.4+
-.7 B#("%$ra"a,#l#t5 (* PLA
#t was observed that when the 9% fibre is sub&ected to ground burrying! marine
water and activated mud tests! there was decrease in tenacity and increase in weight loss.
#n the ground test the fibre is practically decomposed within two years. The observation
is similar for the test of immersion in marine water. #t is decomposed much 2uic)ly in
activated mud. The degradation is almost complete in 4-7 months time *.ig.7+

F#$.& B#("%$ra"a,#l#t5 (* Latr(n 3PLA4
The behaviour of 9% in comparison with other traditional fibres is:
The conventional polyester *9ET+ retains the shape and properties under all
biodegradability tests.
The cellulosic fibres *cotton and rayon+ are decomposed more rapidly than 9% in
actived mud.
-.2 /a!t% "#!.(!al
%t the end of their useful life! 9% products can be disposed of by all traditional
waste management methods. #n addition 9% products can be composted in municipal
composting facilities.
-.B In#n%rat#(n
9% polymers incinerate cleanly and with reduced energy yield */!811 =T:Qlb+
compared to traditional polymers. 9% polymers burn much li)e paper! cellulose and
carbohydrates. #t contains no aromatic groups or chlorine! burns with white flame!
produces few byproducts and 1.106 ash.
-.0 P(!t (n!u+%r r%5l#n$
#n practice the following conditions need to be met in order to recycle any
material:
0. The material is present in sufficient 2uantities in waste stream.
4. % disciplined collection system is put into place to collect.
7. The product is clearly mar)ed and physically easy to separate.
8. There are outlets desiring to purchase the recycle feedstoc) stream.
=ecause 9% polymers hydroly$e with water to generate lactic acid! it would be
straightforward to completely degrade 9% into lactic acid and recover monomer.
C(nlu!#(n
0. The cultivation of conventional cotton is not eco friendly. The use of synthetic
fertili$ers! pesticides and various plant chemicals pose serious environmental
problems including health ha$ards. %ll these environmental and health ha$ards
can be ta)en care of by the cultivation of organic cotton. The activities related to
organic cotton cultivation are increasing in cotton growing countries world wide
4. .urther chemical processing of naturally coloured cotton is not essential. Thus the
environment pollution due to chemical processing is eliminated.
7. yocell can be considered to be more environment friendly because the plant
chemicals used for wood plantation put less burden on environment compared to
conventional cotton.
8. The new ecofriendly synthetic fibre based on polylactide *9%4! synthesi$ed from
corn as a renewable source would find wide acceptability in the area of
conventional textiles! technical textiles and non-textile applications. #t would meet
the re2uirements to cope up with the depleting fossil fuel resources and
environment protection. #t is envisaged that in the near future! many companies
would enter into production of 9% fibres.
>epartment of Textile Technology
#ndian #nstitute of Technology!
Fau$-Ehas! "ew >elhi 001103
#ndia.
E.mail: rbchavanShotmail.com
9hone Off: <0-00-435<0813
.ax: <0-00-435/0017