Bali, the famed Island of the Gods, with its varied landscape of hills and mountains, rugged coastlines
and sandy beaches, lush
rice terraces and barren volcanic hillsides all providing a picturesque backdrop to its colourful, deeply spiritual and unique culture, stakes a serious claim to be paradise on earth. With world-class surfing and diving, a large number of cultural, historical and archaeological attractions, and an enormous range of accommodations, this is one of the world's most popular island destinations and one which consistently wins travel awards. Bali has something to offer a very broad market of visitors from young back-packers right through to the super-rich. South Bali!uta,Bukit "eninsula,#anggu,$enpasar,%imbaran,&egian,'usa $ua,Sanur,Seminyak,(anah &ot) the most visited part of the island by far, with !uta Beach and chic Seminyak. #entral Bali *bud, Bedugul, (abanan) (he cultural heart of Bali and the central mountain range. West Bali 'egara, +ilimanuk, ,edewi Beach, "emuteran, West Bali 'ational "ark) -erries to %ava and the West Bali 'ational "ark. 'orth Bali &ovina, Singara.a) /uiet black sand beaches and the old capital city. 0ast Bali 1med, Besakih, #andidasa, !intamani, !lungkung, ,ount 1gung, "adang Bai, (irta +angga) &aid back coastal villages, an active volcano and the mighty ,ount 1gung. Southeastern 2slands 'usa &embongan, 'usa "enida, 'usa #eningan) /uiet offshore islands in the southeast, popular for diving activities. Cities $enpasar - a bustling city, the administrative centre 3 transport hub of the island but not a ma.or tourist destination #andidasa - a quiet coastal town, the Bali 1ga and gateway to the east coast !uta - surfer central, by far the most heavily developed area in Bali. &ots of shopping and night-life and the centre of lower-end party culture on Bali %imbaran - sea-side resorts, a nice sheltered beach and seafood restaurants south of !uta &egian - located between !uta and Seminyak4 also the name of !uta5s main street &ovina - beautiful black volcanic sand beaches and coral reefs "adang Bai - a rela6ed traditional fishing village with some touristic options. +reat place to en.oy the beach, snorkelling, diving and eating fish. Sanur - sea-side resorts and beaches popular with older families Seminyak - quieter, more upscale beachside resorts and villas .ust to the north of &egian, with some fashionable upscale restaurants and trendy designer bars and dance clubs *bud - centre of art 3 dance in the foothills, with several museums, the monkey forest 3 lots of arts 3 crafts shops Other destinations 1med - an area of peaceful, traditional fishing villages featuring black sand beaches, coral reefs 3 e6cellent diving Bedugul - nice lakes in the mountains, a golf course, the botanical gardens 3 the famous *lun $anu Bratan (emple Bukit "eninsula - the southernmost tip of Bali, with world class surfing, great beaches, and the can't- miss cliff-hanging *luwatu (emple !intamani - active volcano ,ount Batur, great mountain scenery, cooler temperatures and fruit growing ,ount 1gung - highest mountain in Bali and the mother temple of Besakih 'usa $ua - an enclave of high-end resorts and a long, golden sand beach 'usa &embongan - good diving, snorkelling and surfing and a great place to rela6 'usa "enida - wild, rugged and untamed and as off-the-beaten-path as you will get in Bali West Bali 'ational "ark - trekking, bird watching and diving in Bali's only substantial natural protected area Understand Bali is one of more than 78,999 islands in the 2ndonesian archipelago and is located .ust over : kilometres almost 7.; miles) from the eastern tip of the island of %ava and west of the island of &ombok. (he island, home to about < million people, is appro6imately 7<< kilometres =9 mi.) from east to west and >9 kilometres ;9 mi.) north to south. (he word ?paradise? is used a lot in Bali and not without reason. (he combination of friendly, hospitable people, a magnificently visual culture infused with spirituality and not least) spectacular beaches with great surfing and diving have made Bali 2ndonesia's unrivaled number one tourist attraction. 0ighty percent of international visitors to 2ndonesia visit Bali and Bali alone. (he popularity is not without its flip sides - like many places in the island's South, once paradisiacal !uta has degenerated into a congested warren of concrete, touts and scammers e6tracting a living by overcharging tourists. (he island's visibility has also drawn the unwanted attention of terrorists in :99: and :99;4 however Bali has managed to retain its magic. Bali is a wonderful destination with something for everyone, and though heavily travelled, it is still easy to find some peace and quiet, if you like. 1void the South of the island if you want a more traditional and genuine Balinese e6perience. 1 consideration is the tourist season and Bali can get very crowded in 1ugust and September and again at #hristmas and 'ew @ear. 1ustralians also visit during school holidays in early 1pril, late %une and late September, while domestic tourists from elsewhere in 2ndonesia visit during national holidays. Autside these peak seasons, Bali can be surprisingly quiet and good discounts on accommodation are often available. History (he first Hindus arrived in Bali as early as 799 B#, but the unique culture which is so apparent to any current day visitor to Bali hails largely from neighbouring%ava, with some influence from Bali's distant animist past. (he %avanese ,a.apahit 0mpire's rule over Bali became complete in the 7<th century when +a.ah ,ada, "rime ,inister of the %avanese king, defeated the Balinese king at Bedulu. (he rule of the Majapahit Empire resulted in the initial influ6 of %avanese culture, most of all in architecture, dance, painting, sculpture and the wayang puppet theatre. 1ll of this is still very apparent today. (he very few Balinese who did not adopt this %avanese Bindu culture are known today as the Bali 1ga?original Balinese?) and still live in the isolated villages of (enganan near #andidasa and (runyan on the remote eastern shore of &ake Batur at !intamani. With the rise of 2slam in the 2ndonesian archipelago, the ,a.apahit 0mpire in %ava fell and Bali became independent near the turn of the 7Cth century. (he %avanese aristocracy found refuge in Bali, bringing an even stronger influ6 of Bindu arts, literature and religion. $ivided among a number of ruling ra.as, occasionally battling off invaders from now 2slamic %ava to the west and making forays to conquer &ombok to the east, the north of the island was finally captured by the $utch colonialists in a series of brutal wars from 7><C to 7><=. Southern Bali was not conquered until 7=9C, and eastern Bali did not surrender until 7=9>. 2n both 7=9C and 7=9>, many Balinese chose death over disgrace and fought en-masse until the bitter end, often walking straight into $utch cannons and gunfire. (his manner of suicidal fighting to the death is known as puputan. Dictory was bittersweet, as the images of the puputan highly tarnished the $utch in the international community. "erhaps to make up for this, the $utch did not make the Balinese enter into a forced cultivation system, as had happened in %ava, and instead tried to promote Balinese culture through their policy of Baliseering or the "Balinisation of Bali". Bali became part of the newly independent Eepublic of 2ndonesia in 7=<;. 2n 7=C;, after the failed coup d'etat which was allegedly backed by the #ommunist "arty "!2), state-instigated, anti-communist violence spread across 2ndonesia. 2n Bali, it has been said that the rivers ran red with the reprisal killings of suspected communistsFmost estimates of the death toll say >9,999, or about five percent of the population of Bali at the time. (he current chapter in Bali's history began in the seventies when intrepid hippies and surfers discovered Bali's beaches and waves, andtourism soon became the biggest income earner. $espite the shocks of the terrorist attacks in :99: and :99;, the magical island continues to draw crowds, and Bali's culture remains as spectacular as ever. Culture *nlike any other island in largely ,uslim 2ndonesia, Bali is a pocket of Hindu religion and culture. 0very aspect of Balinese life is suffused with religion, but the most visible signs are the tiny offeringscanang sari, or sesajen) found in every Balinese house, work place, restaurant, souvenir stall and airport check-in desk. (hese leaf trays are made daily and can contain an enormous range of offering itemsG flowers, glutinous rice, cookies, salt, and even cigarettes and coffeeH (hey are set out with burning incense sticks and sprinkled with holy water no less than three times a day, before every meal. $on't worry if you step on one, as they are placed on the ground for this very purpose and will be swept away anyway But you better not step on one on purpose, because - as Balinese believe - it'll give you bad luckH). Balinese Binduism diverged from the mainstream well over ;99 years ago and is quite radically different from what you would see in 2ndia. (he primary deity is Sanghyang Widi Wasa 1cintya), the ?all-in-one god? for which other gods like Dishnu Wisnu) and Shiva Civa) are merely manifestations, and instead of being shown directly, he is depicted by an empty throne wrapped in the distinctive poleng black-and-white chessboard pattern and protected by a ceremonial tedung umbrella. (he Balinese are master sculptors, and temples and courtyards are replete with statues of gods and goddesses like Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice and fertility, as well as guardians and protecting demons like toothy Rakasa, armed with a club. (hese days, though, entire villages like Batubulan have twigged onto the tourist potential and churn out everything imaginable from Buddhas to couples entwined in acrobatic poses for the e6port market. Balinese dance and music are also .ustly famous and a ma.or attraction for visitors to the island. 1s on neighbouring %ava, the gamelan orchestra and wayang kulit shadow puppet theatre predominate. $ances are e6tremely visual and dramatic, and the most famous includeG Barong or "lion dance" a ritual dance depicting the fight !etween good and evil" with performers wearing fearsome lion#like masks$ %his dance is often staged specifically for tourists as it is one of the most visually spectacular and the storyline is relatively easy to follow$ &arong dance performances are not hard to find$ Calonarang a spectacular dance which is a tale of com!ating dark magic and e'orcising the evil spirits aligned with the witch#(ueen Rangda$ %he story has many variations and rarely are two calonarang plays the same$ If you can find an authentic Calonarang performance" then you are in for a truly magical e'perience$ Kecak or "monkey dance" actually invented in the )*+,s !y resident German artist Walter Spies for a movie !ut a spectacle nonetheless" with up to -., dancers in concentric circles chanting "kecak kecak"" while a performer in the centre acts out a spiritual dance$ /n especially popular 0ecak dance performance is staged daily at 1luwatu %emple$ Legong Keraton perhaps the most famous and feted of all &alinese dances$ 2erformed !y young girls" this is a dance of divine nymphs hailing from )-th century 3ava$ %ry to find an authentic 4egong 0eraton with a full#length performance$ %he short dance performances often found in tourist restaurants and hotels are usually e'tracts from the 4egong 0eraton$ esti!als (here are an estimated :9,999 temples pura) on the island, each of which holds festivals odalan) at least twice yearly. With many other auspicious days throughout the year there are always festivities going on. (he large island-wide festivals are determined by two local calendars. (he :79 day wuku or 2awukon calendar is completely out of sync with the western calendar, meaning that it rotates wildly throughout the year. (he lunar sakacaka) calendar roughly follows the western year. 1ll national public holidays in 2ndonesia apply in Bali, although Eamadan is naturally a much smaller event here than in the country's ,uslim regions. Galungan is a ), day festival which comes around every -), days and cele!rates the death of the tyrant 5ayadenawa$ Gods and ancestors visit earth and are greeted with gift#laden !am!oo poles called penjor lining the streets$ %he last day of the festival is known as Kuningan$ Nyepi" or the Hindu New Year" also known as the day of a!solute silence" is usually in 5arch or /pril 6ne't on 5arch +)" -,)78$ If you are in &ali in the days preceding 9yepi" you will see ama:ing colorful giants 6ogoh ogoh8 !eing created !y every !anjar$ ;n the eve of 9yepi" the ogoh ogoh are paraded through the streets" an ama:ing sight which is not to !e missed$ %here are good reasons to avoid 9yepi as well" !ut for many visitors these will !e outweighed !y the privilege of e'periencing such a uni(ue festival$ ;n 9yepi a!solutely everything on the island is shut down !etween </5 on the day of the new year and </5 the following morning$ %ourists are confined to their hotels and asked to !e as (uiet as possi!le for the day$ /fter dark" light must !e kept to a !are minimum$ 9o one is allowed onto the !eaches or streets$ %he only e'ceptions granted are for real emergency cases$ %he airport remains closed for the entire day" which means no flights into or out of &ali for -7 hr$ =erry har!ours are closed as well$ /s the precise date of 9yepi changes every year" and isn>t finally set until later in the year !efore" flights will !e !ooked !y airlines for this day in case you !ook early$ When the date is set" and as it gets closer" the airlines will alter their !ookings accordingly$ %his may mean that you have to alter your accommodation !ookings if your flight has !een !ought forward or !ack to cater for 9yepi day$ Climate Daytime temperatures are pleasant" varying !etween -,#++ C 6<?#*+ =8 year#round$ =rom Decem!er to 5arch" the west monsoon can !ring heavy showers @ high humidity" !ut days are still often sunny with the rains starting in the late afternoon or evening and passing (uickly$ =rom 3une to Septem!er" the humidity is low @ it can !e (uite cool in the evenings$ /t this time of the year there is hardly any rain in the lowland coastal areas$ &ut !e aware of flood along the !each from %u!an to 5elasti 60uta8 !ecause the drainage is not sufficient anymore in line with the development of occupying the land$ %he flood is not come in every year" !ut please donAt stay in the ground floor" !ecause the one to two hours flood can reach your knee on the road in front of your hotel$ Bven when it is raining across most of &ali" you can often enjoy sunny" dry days on the &ukit 2eninsula which receives far less rain than any other part of the island$ ;n the other hand" in central &ali and in the mountains" you should not !e surprised !y cloudy skies and showers at any time of the year$ /t higher elevations such as &edugul or 0intamani" it gets distinctly chilly and you will need either a sweater or jacket after the sun sets$ "ime &ali is in the 1%CC? time :one 6known in Indonesia as WI%/" Waktu Indonesia %engah8 Electricity Blectricity is supplied at --,D .,E:$ ;utlets are the Buropean standard CBB#FGF "Schukostecker" or "Schuko" or the compati!le" !ut non#grounded" CBB#FG)< "Buroplug" types$ "al# Balinese is very different from &ahasa Indonesia" although the latter is the lingua franca in Indonesia and is spoken !y practically everyone in &ali$ In tourist regions" Bnglish @ other foreign languages are widely spoken$ &alinese is a difficult language" @ any visitor making an effort to speak a few words will !e especially warmly received !y the local people$ Balinese temple design is an involved su!ject and one which !affles many visitors$ 4ocal geography has a fundamental effect on design" and two temples are rarely the same$ Bverything you see" !e it decorative or structural" has a specific" well# considered function which may !e of an earthly or spiritual nature$ %here are" though" general elements which are common to the vast majority of temples" which are always split into three courtyardsH ja!a 6outer courtyard8 " ja!a tengah 6middle courtyard8 and jeroan 6inner courtyard8$ Bach of these courtyards contains various structures andGor shrines of differing levels of importance$ %he tiered" !lack#thatched roofs that you see on temples are made from a palm fi!re" and this material is not permitted to !e used for any roof other than those on temples$ %he elegant" pagoda#like tiered structure is itself called a meru6named after sacred 5ount 5eru 65ahameru8" the home of the gods8" and the most dramatic of them can consist of as many as )) tiers$ %he num!er of tiers" though" is always an odd num!er$ %he temple entrance is always on the kelod a'is point 6facing away from 5ount /gung8 of the compound and is usually a gateway of some nature$ %his leads into the ja!a which is the domain of humans and all things earthly$ %he ja!a contains only minor shrines" is where some cele!ratory dance performances take place" and during special ceremonies is where the foods stalls are set up$ 9on#Eindu tourists are nearly always allowed to visit this part of a temple$ / gateway called a candi !entar leads into the central courtyard which is called the ja!a tengah$ %his is the intermediary point !etween our earthly domain and the realm of the Gods" and this is where daily offerings are prepared in an open pavilion called a paon$ %he ja!a tengah also usually contains a large pavilion called a wantilan" which is used for special dance performances$ %he kori agung gate leads into the jeroanthe inner sacred area$ %his houses the most important shrines to different Eindu gods and deities and is where serious rituals and prayers take place$ Shrines are many and varied !ut usually include a padmasana" the throne of the supreme deity Sanghyang Widi Wasa$ %he large pavilion in this section is called a gedong pariman" which is always left completely empty to allow the gods to visit during ceremonies$ Sometimes properly dressed visitors will !e allowed into the jeroan and at other times notI it depends on the individual temple and the ceremonies that have !een" or are a!out to !e" performed$ %he most common and practical architectural features to !e found in virtually all temples are ga:e!o pavilions called !ales$ Bach has a raised seating section and either an alang#alang6grass#thatched8 or tali duk 6!lack palm fi!re# thatched8 roof and has a myriad of social functions$ &ales can serve as a place for the gamelan orchestra to sit" as a village meeting point" host dance performances or simply !e a place of rest for worshipers$ %his part of traditional &alinese temple architecture has !een copied !y hotels all over the island and in the wider world$ %he open grass#roofed pavilions you see everywhere in &ali are all derived from this original piece of temple design$ "OU$%SM %&O$M'"%O& CE&"$ES 7CC from a landline in Bali only. -rom a handphone in Bali 9IC7 7CC. Bali (ourism BoardG %l Eaya "uputan 'o<7, $enpasar. J7K LC: IC7 :I;C99, fa6GLC: IC7 :I=:99). Bali Shuttle Services #heck in 3 #heckout)G "erum +((, %ln #endana 222 no 7I $alung - 'orth !uta. LC: >7===:<>;IC (et in By plane ,ost visitors will arrive at &gurah $ai %nternational 'irport, also known as $enpasar $"S) 2nternational 1irport. $espite this misleading name, the airport is actually located in (uban between !uta and %imbaran, roughly I9 mins away from $enpasar. 'gurah Eai is 2ndonesia's Ird busiest international airport after %akarta 3 Surabaya) 3 a ma.or hub connected to 1ustralia, South-0ast 1sia, 3 the rest of 2ndonesia. )isa on arri!al. "ay on arrival, get a visa in your passport, get it stamped. ,ost visitors fall in this category. Disitors arriving in Bali by air from a point of origin outside 2ndonesia will be clearing customs and immigration at Bali's $"S 1irport may require the purchase of a visa on arrival DA1). 1s of %anuary :97<, the only type of visa on arrival available is *SMI;.99 for I9 days. (his may be e6tended later at the local 2mmigration office for a further once only period of up to I9 days. 06act change in dollars is recommended, although a selection of other ma.or currencies including rupiah are accepted, and any change will usually be given in rupiah. #redit cards are accepted in Bali but don't count on the service working). 1rriving passengers are passed through DA1 issuance if applicable, then subsequently processed through immigration clearance channels for DA1.. Baggage retrieval is followed by customs and quarantine e6aminations including baggage N-ray checkpoints. (he DA1 and immigration clearance lines are integrated into several continuous lines4 unlike the previous route where a passenger needed to line up at a DA1 line and then to an immigration line. "he airport (he airport will not win any awards for style, but it is functional enough and has the usual complement of overpriced restaurants, duty-free shops and other services. 1(,s which accept #irrus and "lus cards for withdrawals are available in airport departure and arrival areas and a range money changing kiosks including some operated by 2ndonesian banks such as B'2, B#1 and ,andiri are available at the airport. ,ost 1(,s for international arriving passengers are available right after e6iting customs. (here is one 1(, to the immediate left of the customs e6it, and another one a short walk away4 near a restaurant. Security protocols including passenger and baggage screening are similar to other large international airports in the region. &imitations similar to those in the 0* and *S are placed upon the carrying of fluids and other so- called security items in hand luggage. 2nternational passengers should be prepared for scrutiny of their baggage, including all carry-on items. When departing, you will likely pass through a total of three security checkpoints, and possibly a further one at the boarding gate, so be patient, particularly when things are busy. Security protocols at the domestic terminal are similar to those applied at other 2ndonesian domestic hub airports, with baggage and carry-on screening, 6-ray, metal detection, hand inspections and other security measures in place for departing passengers. Be mindful of airport porters who may attempt to take control of your luggage either ad.acent to or immediately ad.acent to the baggage claim or in other sections of the airport. (hese porters may look quite similar to actual airport officials and may carry a name badge. 2f you do not wish to engage the services of a porter, then a firm but polite ?no? should suffice. 2f you do accept their services then a payment is required with Ep ;,999 being the standard charge. ,any of the porters demand money if they have been successful in picking up your bag, even if you tell them not to do so. ,ost certainly do not pay them if they do this and completely ignore any demands they make for payment or any other 'services' they may claim to be able to provide. With the move to the newer international terminal as of Actober :97I)4 porters usually will not take control of your luggage unless they either ask you or you request their assistance depending on which one comes first). 2f you do utiliOe them4 tipping is based on siOe of your baggage and the time spent helping you get through customs. 2n most cases, your baggage will be off of the conveyor belt and lined up on the side by the time you make your way to the baggage claim area. When departing from Bali, you are sub.ect to the airport departure ta* which can be paid in cash in 2ndonesian Eupiah, or *S $ollars with a surcharge, so save some bills for the trip out. (he airport departure ta6 is Ep :99,999 for international departures M:: in ,ay :97<) and Ep <9,999 for domestic departures. 2nfants under : years of age are e6empted from departure ta6 but not Disa An 1rrival). $eparting Bali to overseas destinations can be a fraught e6perience. #orruption is rife the most corrupt airport in 2ndonesia by far) and immigration, customs and airport officials operate a large number of scams aimed at relieving departing passengers of as much of their remaining cash as possible. (he most common scam is to claim that souvenirs require e6port licenses you can choose to fill out the supposedly necessary paperwork but there's so much of it you would miss your flight were you to complete it all. -ortunately the happy scammers have an easy solution - hand over lots of money Ja few hundred thousand rupiah might be enough if that's all you've got in your wallet but amounts asked can range up to millions of rupiahPhundreds of dollarsK and the license problem can be miraculously sorted out.) 'o license is required for anything other than antiques. Ar it could be that you will be told of an e6cise duty that is payable. Ather scams include removing alcohol from luggage, individuals charging departure ta6 its payable at a booth and a receipt is stuck to the boarding pass), refusal to accept unwrapped checked luggage meaning you have to pay to have your luggage wrapped in plastic shrink-wrap), and, on the way in, demanding cash deposits for e6pensive goods to ensure that they won't be sold but, of course, there's no way to reclaim your deposit when you leave). Airport extortion /ccording to the 3akarta 2ostH "9gurah Rai /irport staffers have a long and ugly history of attempting to e'tort illegal fees in the name of ta'es or fines from visitors$" In -,,F an incident received wide press coverage$ Dorothy 4onghurst" a cancer survivor on a recuperative trip to &ali" was put !ack on a plane with her hus!and to /ustralia when she refused to pay 1SJ7",,, to overcome the technical illegality of only having . months and - weeks validity remaining in her passport$ Immigration procedures for Indonesia re(uire si' months remaining validity and several empty pages in the passports of arriving foreign tourists$ %he incident caused uproar and prompted the intervention of then Dice#2resident" 3usuf 0alla" who insisted the culpa!le immigration officer !e fired (he new two story 2nternational terminal building is now open as of ,arch :97<). ,uch of these improvements do make Bali's airport a much nicer destination for airline travellers. Bowever, if you arrive during peak time or if there are multiple inbound flight lands, do e6pect a long queue at the immigration counter. %he adjacent island of 4om!ok also has a new international airport and in the near future it is likely to !e a!le to assist in !alancing the incoming traffic load !y reducing some of the onward destination traffic currently arriving in &ali$ %he new airport in 4om!ok also provides a near!y safe alternative landing site for wide#!odied aircraft in case of any emergency$ +ea!e the 'irport ,repaid "a*i ares from &gurah $ai 'irport to main Bali -estinations --Sub.ect to change-- !uta Ep ;9,999 (uban Ep I;,999 &egian Ep ;;,999 Seminyak Ep C9,999 to 89,999 %imbaran Ep 89,999 to >9,999 $enpasar Ep 89,999 to 799,999 Sanur Ep =9,999 'usa $ua Ep =;,999 to 779,999 *bud Ep 79;,999 to Ep :;9,999 "adang Bai Ep IC;,999 #andidasa Ep I>;,999 1med Ep <99,999 &ovina Ep <99,999 to <;9,999 'BG "rices from board behind ta6i counter. &atest *pdateG- 1s of %une :97I, petrol prices has been increased to 2$EC,;997 litre)from 2$E<,;99. (hus you may e6pect price increase from food, lodging and transportation as well. 2n terms of transportation from the airport, 'gurah Eai is not too bad, but is far from being perfect too. Some hotels organise free transfers from the airport, but plenty of public ta6is are also availableG go to the ticketing booth, on the right side .ust after the e6it, buy a fi6ed-fare ticket and a driver will be assigned to you trouble-free. Bowever, the ticketing booth closes after the last flight arrival for the day and re-opens at > am, so anyone wanting an airport ta6i during this period should be prepared to haggle or seek the alternatives described below. Beware being overcharged by the staff behind the counter, citing reasons such as new rates. (his commonly happens to travelers who appear new to Bali and unsure of the pricing, and can be as much as 799Q more. 2t is best to determine your destination's locality 3 prepare the e6act amount for the trip. 1t the counter, hand that amount over while confidently stating your destination. 2f necessary, mention the pricing on the board behind the counter to reinforce the amount you give. 2f you are travelling on a restricted budget, you can flag down a Blue Bird (a6i from outside the airport gate I-; minutes walk from both terminals). Blue Bird (a6is are safe and reliable, and their metered fares are somewhat cheaper than the prepaid ta6i fares. $epending on how much baggage you have and how bulky it is, you might want to evaluate whether all that e6tra effort is worth it to save a few dollars. ,etered ride to !uta, for e6ample, would generally cost Ep :9,999 to I9,999. 2f you do make the effort to walk outside the airport to the street, you can also flag down a !emo local minivan). ,ost of the bemos in this area will be heading to !uta road to !uta heads to the left if looking out from the airport gate), but don't absolutely bank on it, and be prepared for a hot, crowded .ourney. 2t should cost no more than a few thousand rupiah per person ask the driver beforehand). By .us (here are direct bus services to Bali from all ma.or cities on %ava and &ombok that link with ferries for sea crossings. (hese are cheap and easy, but slow. (rans S1EB1+2(1 bus company operates a fully airconditioned buses all coloured in blue that runs following route (erm. Batu Bulan +ianyar) - (ohpati $"S) - Sanur $"S) - !uta #entral "ark Badung) - %imbaran Badung) - 'usa $ua Badung), occassionally the bus heading to and from 'usa $ua will stop at the airport.). Ane way adult fare to any destination on the bus route will only cost you EpI,;99 per person. 2f you want to take the bus, e6it left and continue walking until you are outside of the airport building about :99 metres) until you reach a roundabout. Wait at the opposite end of the roundabout the bus stop yet to be built but is is planned by the authorities). 2f you are not sure please ask around. (ell the bus driver that you want to go to #entral "arkir !uta. @ou can continue your .ourney to your hotel in nearby !uta or &egian by taking a cab at a much lower fare. By .oat =erries cross from 0etapang on the island of 3ava to Gilimanuk in western &ali every ). min" -7 hr every day$ %hese are very cheap" and the crossing takes just +, min 6plus considera!le waiting around for loading and unloading8$ / num!er of speed!oats and catamarans operate into &enoa Ear!our near 0uta 6K- hr8 and 2adang!ai 6?, min8 from the Gili Islands of 4om!ok$ %hese are convenient for some travellers !ut are fre(uently priced much higher than the e(uivalent air crossing$ Crossing times are su!ject to weather and other operational conditions and trip times can longer than those pu!licised$ Caution should !e used in selecting a suita!le operator and craft for a fast !oat crossing to 4om!ok$ Some of the operators on these routes use inappropriate e(uipment and have inade(uate levels of crew training" personnel and safety e(uipment$ %he 4om!ok Strait fast !oat crossing can !e su!ject to inclement weather and e(uipment !reakdowns$ &oarding an overloaded craft or departing in adverse weather conditions may lead to serious disappointment$ Currently there are no operators offering craft suita!le for open water all#weather crossings$ Rather they are operating light duty hulled craft of fi!reglass or aluminium construction powered !y out!oard petrol engines$ ;ne of the current operators plans to introduce a more suita!ly specified and e(uipped craft sometime in the )st or -nd (uarter of -,))$ %he new !oat will !e powered !y diesel in!oard engines and have a more ro!ust hull construction appropriate to open water use$ / previous craft of similar specification was withdrawn from this route as operations could not !e sustained in competition with the lower cost !ase alternatives$ %wo of the light duty craft have already sunk whilst carrying passengers" fortunately they had not yet entered open waters at the time" fortunately near!y assistance was availa!le and there were no fatalities$ (here are also public ferries from &embar, &ombok, to "adang Bai every few hours, with the trip taking around I to < hours. (his service has a notable safety, operational and equipment standards issues, some ferries are better than others, or worse depending upon your perspective. $elays are commonplace due to loading and unloading issues and services may be cancelled or postponed during periods of inclement weather. 2t may be prudent to avoid sea crossings during the monsoonal period when sea conditions may lead to deteriorated comfort levels or a dangerous crossing. #ruise ships occasionally stop so that passengers can tour or shop. Some ships still anchor off-shore toward the southeast side of the island and tender guests to shore. ,odest-siOed ships can choose to dock at the port of Benoa not far from $enpasar, !uta and Sanur. (he dock area is basically industrial, with few amenities and no 1(,s, but masses of ta6is are usually ready to whisk you to nearby destinations at a moderate cost. (E" '$OU&- @ou'll need a method to get around if you plan on e6ploring more than the hotel pool. Eapid, seemingly uncontrolled development and an aging infrastructure, mean that the roads struggle to cope. 2n ma.or tourist areas the traffic is chaotic, and there are daily .ams. "articular blackspots are *bud, !uta, Seminyak and $enpasar. -or different e6cursions around the island, it is common to .oin a tour via your hotel or at one of the many street agencies which are found everywhere in booths normally marked ?(ourist 2nformation?. Ance you arrive at your destination you may encounter difficult walking conditions as sidewalks in most parts of Bali are simply the covered tops of storm-water drains and in many places only C9cm : ft) wide. (his makes for uncomfortable single-file walking ne6t to traffic. Aften sidewalks are blocked by a motorbike or a caved-in section, necessitating dangerous darting into traffic. ,any of the island's conventional streets are simply not pedestrian- friendly. Beach areas and ma.or tourist areas are easier to walk around and Sanur in particular has a wide beachfront pathway with many cafes and bars. But although the walking conditions are difficult, they are by no means impossible. &ots of tourists and locals travel the roads by foot and even the traffic is generally very accommodating to pedestrians if it is given time to react. By .us (he ,erama bus company serves the budget traveller well in Bali and beyond, and they have offices in several ma.or tourist destinations on the island. (here are other scheduled shuttle buses between many of Bali's most popular destinations, and these are cheap and reliable. #heck locally advertised services you cannot miss them) and book one day in advance. 1 new (rans Sarbagita government bus service operates on Bali since 1ugust :977 J<CK. (he buses are comfortable, air-conditioned similar to (rans.akarta Busway but even more spacious), and the fare is only Ep I,;99. (hese buses stop only at permanent elevated bus stops built on the road curb. 1s of %une :97:, only Eoute : was operating Eoute 7 and Eoute I are planned to be open soon). (he buses serving Eoute : start from Batubulan bemo terminal, go via %alan Bypass 'gurah Eai stopping in Sanur on the way) and $ewa Euci statue !uta roundabout, also known as Simpang Siur roundabout) to #entral "arkir !uta near +iant supermarket on %alan Eaya !uta, a kilometer or so inland from the main tourist areas of !uta), make a loop via Sunset Eoad back to !uta roundabout, and go south all the way to 'usa $ua, then go back. -or visitors, the main advantage is there's no need now to change bemos and to deal with :-I bemo drivers to get to Batubulan terminal from where direct bemos to *bud, !intamani and other north and north-eastern destinations are available) or to Sanur. (hose going to 'usa $ua or Benoa may find the southern part of the route useful. (he bus stop nearest to the airport is #entral "arkir !uta, a Blue Bird ta6i caught outside of the airport gate will cost you around Ep :;,999. 2f boarding at #entral "arkir !uta, beware that both southbound 'usa $ua) and northbound Batubulan) buses seem to use the same stop - if no signs on the bus, ask the conductor or other people waiting for the bus. By ta*i ,etered ta6is are very common in southern Bali as far north as $enpasar but few and far between elsewhere. (he starting flagfall charge is Ep ;,999 for the first two kilometres and the meter ticks up Ep ;,999 per km after that. Waiting time is charged at Ep I9,999 per hour. (rips outside southern Bali will incur an e6tra charge of I9Q, as the driver has to go back empty. By far the largest and most reliable ta6i company is Bali "a#si/Blue Bird4 they have a telephone call service LC: IC7 897777 for both instant ta6is and for advance bookings. 2f you are hailing a ta6i on the street, Bali (aksi cars are sky blue with a white top light. (he cars are modern and the drivers well-informed with a decent level of 0nglish- language ability. (here are several other reliable ta6i companies but these are not always easy to identify. 2f entering a ta6i with no working meter, you can negotiate a price if you know how to bargain. 1lternatively, always insist on the meter being turned on, and leave the ta6i if that request is not met. $ue to the traffic, the ta6is may refuse to use the meter in traffic .ams, and you need to negotiate a price. 06pect to pay around Ep ;999 to travel from !uta to &egian. 2f day-tripping, it is often cheaper and more convenient to arrange for your ta6i to wait and take you back. By .emo Bemos are minivans which serve as a fle6ible bus service also known as ?Shuttle Bus?) and are Bali's ?traditional? form of transportation. Bowever they have largely given way to metered ta6is in the south. -ares on shared bemos can be very cheap, but drivers will often insist that foreign tourists charter the entire vehicle, in which case they will usually ask for a price equivalent to a ta6i or even more. By self0dri!e car or motor.i#e $riving in Bali is on the left-hand side. #ar and motorbike rentals are widely available but you should think very carefully about your ability to handle driving in Bali with its lack of formal traffic rules. #onsider hiring a car and driver as you can rela6, be safe and not get lost. 2f you rent a car to drive yourself, a modern four door (oyota 1vanOa or $aihatsu Nenia should cost Ep :99,999-:;9,999 per day. 2f on a tighter budget, you should be able to get an old, rough SuOuki %imny from about Ep =9,999 to 779,999 per day. Driving in &ali re(uires an International Driving 2ermit 6ID28" plus your own home country of residence Drivers 4icence &oth these documents must correctly match the type @ class of vehicle !eing driven or they are invalid$ &oth must !e carried @ are often re(uired to !e presented in roadside police stops$ Eenting motorcycles or scooters can be a frightening yet fascinating e6perience. (hey are typically 7:;cc, some with automatic transmissions, and rent for between Ep <9,999 and 799,999 per day for a week or more, cheaper price can be bargained). 2n areas outside of the tourist enclaves of south Bali, a motorbike is a wonderful way to see the island, but in south Bali, with its crush of traffic, the chances of an accident are greatly increased. Bali is no place to learn to ride a motorbike. 1n 2nternational $riving "ermit 2$") is required for vehicle rental, with a motorcycle endorsement if renting a motorbike. (he 2$" is seldom requested by the person renting you the vehicle but will be required along with the vehicle's registration papers) if stopped by the police typically a Ep ;9,999 ?fine? will allow you to keep driving and if they ask more write his name down to stop it). By rental car with a dri!er Eental car services owned by individuals or companies are easy to find in Bali and this is the best option for first time visitors. *sing a rental car with a driver is certainly cheaper than ta6is and far more efficient than using other public transportation. (he drivers are usually 0nglish-speaking and they can also act as informal tourist guides recommending good destinations and restaurants. #hoosing to rent from a large car company is naturally more e6pensive than sourcing from a private individual. 1sk hotel staff to recommend a good individually owned rental car with a knowledgeable driver. "rice varies between Ep I99,999 to C99,999 per day usually defined as 79 hr) depending on your negotiation skills and the classPage of the car. ,ake sure the price includes petrol and driver for the day. "etrol costs, after the removal of some government subsidies in recent years, have escalated dramatically although still very cheap by international standards) and the distance travelled is a factor if you have not fi6ed a daily price. (he day price usually includes any parking fees. (here are differing views on whether to offer to buy lunch for your driver. -or those on a tight schedule, visiting most of the ma.or tourist destinations in Bali will need about I days with a rental car and driver. By .icycle (ravel by bicycle is quite possible and provides a very different e6perience than other means of transport. @ou should bring your own touring bike, or buy locallyFthere is at least one well stocked bike shop in $enpasar, but with a racingPmountain bike focus. Bicycles are also widely available for rent and some of the better hotels will even provide them free of charge. While traffic conditions may appear challenging at first, you will acclimatise after a few days, especially once you escape the chaotic heavy traffic of southern Bali. SEE "emples Bali's best-known attractions are its countless Hindu temples. 0ach village is required by adat customary law) to construct and maintain at least three templesG the pura puseh temple of origin) located at the kaja pure) side of the village, the pura desa village temple) at the centre for everyday community activities and the pura dalem temple of the dead) at the kelod unclean) end. Wealthy villages may well have more than these three obligatory temples, and additionally all family compounds have a temple of some nature. (he nine directional temples kayangan jagat) are the largest and most prominent. (hese are located at strategic points across Bali and are designed to protect the island and its inhabitants from dark forces. "ura &uhur *luwatu *luwatu (emple), at the southern tip of Bali, is easily accessed and hence very popular, as is (anah &ot. -or the Balinese, the ?mother temple? ofBesakih on the slopes of ,ount 1gung is the most important of all and sits above the nine. (he other seven directional temples are "ura *lun $anu Bratan, "ura *lun $anu Batur, "ura "asar 1gung, "ura &empuyang &uhur, +oa &awah, "ura ,asceti and "ura &uhur Batukaru. 1ll of these are located on either rugged high ground or at the water's edge, and this is a clear indication of the likely source of dark forces as far as the Balinese are concerned. "o enter any temple you must .e appropriately dressed with a sarong and sash1 (hese are always available for rental at the large temples which attract a lot of tourists usually included if you're paying to enter, else a few thousand rupiah per set), but it's better to buy one of each when you arrive and use them throughout your visit. +andscape ,ost of the coastline of Bali is fringed by .eaches of some type, with the e6ceptions being some important areas of mangrove forest in the southeast, and certain parts of the Bukit "eninsula where high cliffs drop straight to the crashing waves of the 2ndian Acean. *nsurprisingly, given the volcanic nature of the island, black sand is the norm, but there are also some beaches in the south which have fine-grained white sand. Beaches that are especially safe for swimming include %imbaran Bay and virtually all of the north coast. /t all times though" visitors should !e aware of and o!ey local swimming safety markersfar too many visitors to &ali drown each year after ignoring these$ &aliAs popular southern !eaches are sometimes not the cleanest you will find$ %his is particularly true during the height of the wet season 6Decem!er to 3anuary8" when the heavy rains cause e'tensive agricultural run#off and gar!age to !e washed onto the !eaches$ 1way from the coast, Bali is largely lush, green and fertile, and rice paddiesare the dominant agricultural feature of the island. 2n some areas, paddies take the form of dramatic sculpted terraces which efficiently utilise every available acre of land for cultivation. 0specially beautiful e6amples of terraced paddies can be found in the centre of the island north of *bud and in east Bali around(irta +angga. 0lsewhere, gently rolling rice fields make for very pleasing rural scenery. 1ll of Bali's mountains are !olcanoes, some long dormant and some still active. 1t I,7<: metres 79,I9> ft), magnificent ,ount 1gung dominates the landscape of 0ast Bali and has not erupted since 7=CI. ,uch more active is ,ount Batur, which permanently smoulders and periodically produces a large bang and plumes of ashy smoke as pressure is released from within. (aking only two hours to climb, Batur is one of the most accessible active volcanoes in the whole of 2ndonesia. 'rt both traditional and modern, is everywhere in Bali and impossible to miss.*bud is the artistic capital of the island with several museums and a variety of informal workshops and retail outlets. *bud's museums showcase the works of local artists, both living and dead, as well as works by many foreign artists, who either have a strong affinity to Bali or have made the island their permanent home. Monuments 1 sad reminder of the modern world is the Bali Bom. Memorial on %alan &egian in !uta, which commemorates the :9: victims of the first Bali Bomb attack in :99:. (he site of the former Sari #lub, obliterated in one of the blasts, lies ad.acent to the monument 3 hasn't been redeveloped. (here are several monuments commemorating the puputan suicidal fight to the death) of the Balinese against the $utch colonialists in the early :9th century. (he : most famous are in !lungkung in 0ast Bali 3 in "uputan "ark. $enpasar. -O Bali's Hindu culture 2 history is both e6traordinary 3 unique. ,any visitors get so wrapped up in shopping, partying 3 beach life to miss the opportunity to understand 3 absorb at least some of this. (here are several hot springs to be discovered in Bali. Ane of them, on the north coast of the island near &ovina, is 1ir Ban.ar, where stone mouth carvings allow hot water to pass between the pools, which are set in lush gardens. 1nother good choice is at (oya Bungkah on the shores of &ake Batur, high in the north eastern mountains. &ali is a paradise for spa lovers" and all sorts of treatments are widely availa!le$ %he &alinese lulur !ody scru! with her!s and spices is particularly popular$ Balinese massage is usually done with oil and involves long" Swedish#style strokes$ In steep contrast to e'or!itant western massage fees" &alinese massage is incredi!le value" and visitors should definitely avail themselves of this lu'ury$ In local salons" a one#hour full !ody massage will cost !etween Rp F,",,, and ),,",,," and the - hrmandi lulur" which incorporates a !ody scru! and hydrating yogurt !ody mask in addition to the massage" will cost a!out Rp ).,",,,$ %he curiously named creambath is a rela'ing scalp and shoulder massage" usually lasting 7. min" in which a thick conditioning cream is worked through the hair and into the scalp$ / cream!ath typically costs a!out Rp <,",,,$ 9ote that these same services in an upscale hotel will cost many times more$ =ish spa" where small fish will ni!!le dead skin off your feet and hands" is an unusual spa treatment that is recommended for the adventurous and is availa!le for around Rp +.",,, for ). minutes 6Decem!er -,)- prices8$ Water acti!ities (here are many interesting scu.a di!ing sites around Bali. "articularly popular are the wreck of *S1( 4i!erty at (ulamben in the east, the chilled out coral bommies in "adang Bai, the serene reefs around ,en.angan 2sland in the northwest, and dramatic drift diving off 'usa "enida in the south. Bali is a ma.or teaching centre, and there are numerous reputable dive centres around the island affiliated with "1$2 and SS2. #hoose a dive centre operating their own boats on dive sites where strong currents are present in order to increase safety. -or those who want their diving to make a difference as well, dive voluntourism has gain a foothold in Bali, such as in Sea #ommunities in &es Dillage, (e.akula, where divers could help rebuild coral reefs and learn to catch ornamental fish in a sustainable way. Warm waters, crowds of young backpackers, cheap living and reliable waves keep Bali near the top of world surfing destinations. (he southern coast at !uta, &egian and #anggu, the Bukit "eninsulaand 'usa &embongan are the primary draws. 06pert surfers usually head for the big breaks off the Bukit "eninsula, whilst beginners will find the gentler, sandy areas between !uta and &egian to be ideal for learning. 1ll Bali's surf beaches are described in the ?2ndo Surf and &ingo? surfing guidebook, together with ree Bali "ide Charts on their website. (here are formal surf schools on &egian beach and !uta beach. (he more adventurous might like to to try informal lessons from one of the many local self-styled surf teachers to be found hanging on any beach in South Bali. Eegular surf reports are provided by Baliwaves. (he waters of Serangan harbour are protected from big waves and swells by a reef, but open to the winds. 2t is an e6cellent location for the sport of sailing. @ou can easily drive onto Serangan island as it is connected to Bali by a bridge. When driving to the island you will see a spectacular view of the bay on your left. ,any private yachts and magnificent traditional 2ndonesian "hinisi schooners are moored in the smooth waters of the bay. An the beach front of Serangan you may meet other sailors who come to learn or practice their skills and share their knowledge and e6perience of yachting in 2ndonesia. (here are a number of reputable white0water rafting operators in the*bud area, and the rafting is of good quality, especially in the wet season. 2f you want to go in non commercial area and feel more sensations you can also do canyoning. Sport fishing is an increasingly popular activity with visitors to the island. (rolling, .igging and bottom fishing can all be very rewarding, with large game far from unusual. #harters are available from many coastal areas but the most popular points with a competitive range of options are Benoa Barbour and nearby Serangan close to !uta, .ust to the north in Sanur and "adang Bai on the east coast. Water.om is a large water park situated in %l !artika "laOa in !uta. Other sports3 ad!enture and family acti!ities Disitors can see animals at the Bali Roo in Singapadu near *bud, at the Bali Bird "ark, at the (aro 0lephant "ark , and at the Bali ,arine and Safari "ark located near +ianyar. ,any companies also provide ad!enture acti!ities such as "aragliding at 'usa $ua, ,ountain #ycling in the hills of *bud or downhill cycling from Bedugul and !intamani, %ungl %ungle (rekking, Bungy %umping on the beach in Seminyak, Borse Eiding in Seminayak and *malas, and Biking in the rice fields near *bud and many other places in the hills. &ature can be observed while trekking in West Bali 'ational "ark, at the Butterfly "ark (aman !upu !upu) in Wanasari, or at the Bali Botanical +ardens in Bedugul. 2nside the Botanical +ardens, visitors can also get a bird's-eye view of nature from the Bali (reetop 1dventure "ark. Buy Whether it is simple trinkets, a nice statue or high fashion boutiques that turn you on, Bali is a shopper's paradise. Clothing is a real draw. "opular sportswear brands are available in a multitude of stores in !uta and &egian for prices appro6imately thirty to fifty per cent lower than you would pay at home. Bali is an island of artisans, so arts and crafts are always popular. (ry to head to the source if you can rather than buying from identikit shops in !uta or Sanur. @ou will gain more satisfaction from buying an article direct from the maker and seeing the craftsman in action. Bali has a huge range of locally produced paintings, basketware, stone and wood carvings, silver and shell .ewellery, ceramics, natural paper gifts, glassware and much, much more. -ried spices and coffee are very popular items to take home. ,ost supermarkets have specially designed gift packages aimed at tourists, or, if you are visiting Bedugul, buy at the Bukit ,ungsu traditional market. Whatever you are buying, make sure you are in your best bargaining mode, as these skills will be required e6cept in the higher-end stores that specifically state that their prices are fi6ed. 1nd of course, bargaining is a lot of fun. -or more general shopping, Bali is home to a myriad of small stores and supermarkets and you will not be short of options. 2n recent years, :<-hour convenience stores have mushroomed in South Bali with the #ircle! franchise chain being especially prominent. (he staff at these always speak 0nglish and the product lines they stock are very much aimed at visitors4 everything from beer and magaOines to western foodstuffs and sun lotion are available around the clock. Eat Bali has a huge variety of cafes and restaurants, serving both 2ndonesian and international food. -or better or worse, some 1merican chains have established a presence here, although almost e6clusively confined to the southern tourist areas. @ou will see !-#, ,c$onald's, "iOOa But and Starbucks. (ry the smaller local restaurants rather than touristy ones4 the food is better and cheaper. Be sure to try the ubiquitous 2ndonesian dishes nasi goreng fried rice), nasi campur pronounced nasi champur, steamed rice with vegetables 3 meats), and mie goreng fried noodles). (hese dishes should rarely cost more than Ep :;,999 3 are often considerably cheaper. Some of the most authentic food can be found from roving vendors called kaki lima, which literally means ?five legs?. +o to the beaches of !uta, &egian and Seminyak at sunset and find steaming hot !aksopronounced ba-so), a delightful meatball and noodle soup, served up fresh for a very ine6pensive Ep ;,999. @ou can season it yourself but be forewarnedG 2ndonesian spices can be ferociously hot. ,adang restaurants are a good choice for both the budget-conscious and those visitors wishing to e6perience authentic 2ndonesian but not Balinese) cuisine. (hese are usually marked with a prominent masakan padang sign and serve food from "adang, Sumatra. (he options are usually stacked on plates in the window, you choose what you want and it is served with steamed rice. (he most famous "adang speciality is rendang sapi spicy beef coconut curry) but there are always a number of chicken, fish, egg and vegetable options. "adang food is always halal and you will eat well for Ep 7;,999-:9,999. Balinese food 'otable dishes includeG Ba.i guling F roast suckling pig. 1 large ceremonial dish served with rice, usually ordered several days in advance, but also often available at night market stalls and selected restaurants. 1 very notable outlet for babi guling is 2bu Aka's in *bud. 'umerous stalls around the island also offer an equally delightful e6perience for half the price of 2bu Aka's. Be.e# .etutu F literally ?darkened duck?, topped with a herb paste and roasted in banana leaves over charcoal. (he same method can also be used for chicken, resulting in ayam !etutu. +awar F covers a range of Balinese salads, usually involving thinly chopped vegetables, minced meat, coconut and spices. (raditionally, blood is mi6ed into this dish but it is often omitted for the more delicate constitutions of visitors. +reen beans and chicken are a particularly common combination. Sate lilit F minced seafood satay, served wrapped around a twig of lemongrass. Urutan F Balinese spicy sausage, made from pork. ayam panggang .um.u .awang mentah F +rilled chicken with sliced shallots, chillies and lime ayam panggang .um.u merah F +rilled chicken with red chili and shrimp paste sauce ayam tutu F Steamed chicken cooked with Balinese herbs and spices tum ayam/#etopot F Sliced chicken mi6ed with herbs and spices and steamed in banana &eaves i#an #a#ap .a#ar .um.u terasi F +rilled snapper in local hot spices sudang lepet F Salted dry fish pepes i#an laut F Sliced fish mi6ed with herbs and spices grilled and served in a banana leaf pelecing #ang#ung F Water convolvus with shrimp paste and lime pelecing pa#u F -ern tips with shrimp paste and lime -ietary restrictions *nlike 2ndian Bindus, virtually all Balinese eat meat, 3 !egetarianism has traditionally been limited to part-time fasts for some priests. 2t's thus best to assume that all local food is non- vegetarian unless assurances are given to the contrary. 2n particular, the 2ndonesian spice paste sam!al is a hot paste of ground red chillies, spices 3 usually shrimp paste. 1lways check to see if the sambal being served to you contains shrimp paste. 1dditionally, kerupuk crackers with a spongy appearance contain shrimp or fish. 2nstead, ask for emping which is a delicious cracker made from a bean paste and is totally meat free - it resembles a fried potato chip in appearance. Bowever, restaurants catering to tourists do nearly always provide some vegetarian options, and in places likeSeminyak and *bud there are even dedicated vegetarian restaurants. Balal eateries catering to the ,uslim minority e6ist, but may require a little searching for and tend to be downmarket. 2adang restaurants are a good option. !osher food is virtually unknown. Budget 1 meal in a basic tourist-oriented restaurant will be around Ep :9,999-;9,999Pperson. 2n a local restoran or warung the same meal might be about Ep 7;,999 or less. Simple warungs sell nasi !ungkus a pyramid shaped paper-wrapped parcel of about <99 g of rice with several tasty e6tras-to take away) for as little as Ep I,999-;,999. Ane very reliable option is nasi campur rice with several options, chosen by the purchaser) for about Ep 79,999-7;,999. 'ote that rice is often served at ambient temperature with the accompanying food much hotter, this is common practice in 2ndonesia. 1t the other end of the scale, Bali is home to number of truly world- class fine-dining restaurants. Seminyak is home to many of the trendy independent options, and elsewhere on the island, the better five-star resorts have their own very high quality in-house restaurants with prices to match. /t all !ut the cheapest local restaurants" it is normal for ),L government sales ta' and .L service charge to !e added to your !ill$ Some restaurants include this in the price" !ut most e'pressly state these plus plus terms$ -rin# 2ndonesia's most popular beer is the ubiquitous Bintang, but the cheaper Bali Hai is nearly as widespread. Bintang is a fairly highly regarded classic light 1sian beer, Bali Bai is a lager, and despite the name it's actually brewed in a suburb of %akarta. (he Bali-based microbrew Storm is available in several different flavors, and the pale ale is especially good. (he Storm beer is more e6pensive though. (he other local beer is 'n#er. Both Carls.erg and San Miguel are brewed locally under license. 1 wide range of more e6pensive imported beers are also available. Beer is relatively e6pensive in local terms, though still cheap by western standards4 at Ep 7;,999 and up a small bottle costs the same as a full meal in a local eatery. 2n tourist centres, happy hours are widely publicised before and after sunset, with regular stubbie) bottles of beer going for Ep 79,999 to :9,999 and the large bottles for Ep 7>,999 to I9,999. Bali produces its own wines, with Hatten being the oldest and most popular brand, available in white, red, rose most popular) and sparkling varieties. /uality is inconsistent, but the rose is usually A! and much cheaper than imported wines, which can easily top Ep I99,999 per bottle. Wine aficionados are better off bringing their own bottle in with them. ,ost restaurants will let you bring your own bottle and some will charge a modest corkage fee. Bali also produces its own liqueurs and spirits, with Bali Moon being the most popular. (hey offer a wide range of flavoured liqueursG banana, blackcurrant, butterscotch, coconut, haOelnut, lychee, melon, peppermint, orange, blue curacao, pineapple and coffee. Dodka and other spirits are also produced locally, with ,ansion Bouse being the most popular brand. Be aware, though, that many of these local spirits are little more than flavoured rice liquor. #ocktails in Bali range from Ep I9,999 in small bars to Ep 799,999 in high end establishments. Bali ,oon cocktails are available in almost every bar, restaurant and hotel in Bali. Bali's traditional hooches are ara#, a clear distilled spirit that packs a <9S punch4 .rem, a fermented rice wine sold in gift shops in attractive clay bottles that are much nicer than the taste of the stuff inside4 and tua#, a palm 'wine' which is often served at traditional festivities. Disitors should !e e'tremely careful a!out where they purchase arak" as there have !een a num!er of serious poisoning cases and even some deaths involving tainted arak$ (ap water in Bali is not drinkable, but bottled water is universally available and e6tremely ine6pensive Ep ;,999 or so for a 7.; litre bottle)4 restaurants usually use commercially purified water for cooking. (he most popular brand is '4ua and that name is often used generically for bottled water. -iltered water shops are also common, providing on-site treatment of the mains water to a potable standard. (his is known as air putih literally ?white water?). (hese shops are much cheaper than retail outlets, selling water for about Ep ;,999 per 77-litre reusable container, and they avoid the waste created by plastic bottles. Dery cheap about Ep 7;,999) are fresh fruit juices and their mi6es it can be watermelon, melon, papaya, orange, lime, banana or almost any other fruit you can think of). 2n Bali, avocado alpukat) is used as a dessert fruit. Blended with sugar, a little water and iceFand sometimes chocolate syrupFthis is a beverage you will rarely find elsewhereH 2f you do not drink alcohol, Bali's fresh .uices in various creative combinations will please you no end. 1lmost all restaurant menus have a section devoted to various non-alcoholic fruit-based drinks. Sleep Bali has, without a doubt, the best range of accommodation in 2ndonesia, from EpC9,999 per night MC) losmens to *SM<,999 per night super-homes. (he backpackers tend to head for !uta, which has the cheapest digs on the island. Bowever, if the accomodation is located near a night club they can be noisy at night. Ane quiet and clean place in the cheaper catagory is Botel Aka in %alan "adma in &egian, only a kilometre from the night clubs of !uta and walking distance from the beach. ,any of the numerous five-star resorts are clustered in 'usa $ua, Seminyak and *bud. Sanur and%imbaran offer a fairly happy compromise if you want beaches and some quiet. *bud's hotels and resorts cater to those who prefer spas and cultural pursuits over surfing and booOe. &egian is situated between !uta and Seminyak and offers a good range of accommodation. (he newest area to start offering a wide range of accommodation is *luwatu which now boasts everything from surfer bungalows to the opulent Bulgari Botel. -urther north on the west coast is the district of #anggu, which offers many traditional villages set among undulating ricefields and a good range of accommodation. -or rest and revitalisation, visit 1med, an area of peaceful fishing villages on the east coast with some good hotels and restaurants, or head for the sparsely populated areas of West Bali. (hanks to Bali's balmy climate, many hotels offer open-air bathrooms, set in a lush garden. (hey look amaOing, but may also shelter little uninvited guests and are best avoided if you have a low tolerance for critters. Bali hotel prices may be given in three different currencies. "rices in *.S. dollars are most common, particularly away from the budget sector. 0uros are sometimes used, particularly at hotels owned by 0uropean nationals. &ower- end places usually price in 2ndonesian Eupiah. 2f you pay your bill by credit card, then the amount in the currency you agreed to when making the booking is converted to 2ndonesian Eupiah on the day you pay and your account is charged with that amount of Eupiah. 2f you pay by cash, you can settle with the currency in which you were quoted the room rate. 2t is important to understand the ta6 and service charge that hotels are obliged to levy by 2ndonesian law. 1ll high-end and mid-range and a fair proportion of budget) hotels will levy a :7Q ta6 and service charge on the room rate the so-called ?plus plus?). When you make a booking, you should always ask whether the rate quoted includes or e6cludes this. Simple budget homestaysPlosmen and informal accommodation are not obliged to levy these charges. (he :7Q consists of 77Q sales ta6 which goes to the government and a 79Q service charge which goes into a pool shared between the staff. ri!ate !illas &ali has !ecome famous for its large collection of private villas for rent" complete with staff and top#class levels of service$ 2rices vary widely and some operators claim to go as low as 1SJ+, per night 6which usually means a standalone !ungalow on hotel grounds with little actual privacy8$ Realistically" you will !e looking at upwards of 1SJ-,, per night for anything with a decent location and a private pool$ /t the top of the range" nightly rents can easily go north of 1SJ)",,,$ %he general rule of you get what you pay for applies here$ 4ook carefully as to who is running the villa$ Is it run !y the owner" a local company" a western company or !y local staff who answer to an a!sent overseas ownerM /nd who you are renting throughdirectly from the owner" a management company" an esta!lished villa agent or one who just opened a month ago after his friend 9yoman told him how easy it wasM Bach path has its pros and cons$ If it is an agency" see if there are press reviews$ /sk how long the villa has !een taking commercial guests" as villas normally take a year or so to get to !est service levels$ In the first si' to )- months of operation" great villas may offer introductory rates that are well !elow market value to gain awareness$ In all circumstances thoroughly e'amine and (uery the security arrangements" especially if dealing with an apparently ine'perienced or opportunistic operator to ensure you are not e'posing yourself or your !elongings to any unnecessary risks$ 2rivate villas are found mostly in the greater Seminyak area 6Seminyak" 1malas" Canggu8" in the south around 3im!aran and 1luwatu" inSanur and around the hill town of 1!ud as well as 4ovina in north &ali $ %hey are rare in heavily !uilt#up areas like 0uta" 4egian andDenpasar$ Stay safe Bali is, in general, a safe destination, and few visitors encounter any real problems. &ali was the scene of lethal terrorist !om!ings in -,,- and -,,." with !oth waves of attacks targeting nightclu!s and restaurants popular among foreign visitors$ Security is conse(uently tight at o!vious targets" !ut it is of course impossi!le to protect oneself fully against terrorism$ /s a visitor" it is important to put the risk in perspectiveH the sad fact is that &aliAs roads are" statistically" far more dangerous than even the deadliest !om!$ It may still !e prudent to avoid high#profile western hang#outs" especially those without security measures$ Bali is increasingly enforcing 2ndonesia's harsh penalties against the import, e6port, trafficking and possession of illegal drugs, including mari.uana, ecstasy, cocaine and heroin. 0ven the possession of a small amount of drugs for personal use puts you at risk of a trial and prison sentence. Watch out for seemingly harmless street !oys looking to sell you drugs 6marijuana" ecstasy" cocaine" etc$8$ 5ore often than not" they are working with undercover police and will try to sell you drugs so that they can then get uniformed officers onto you$ %here is a fair chance that you will !e offered magic mushrooms" especially if you are young and find yourself in 0uta$ 2f you see a red flag planted in the sand, do not swim there, as they are a warning of dangerous rip currents. (hese currents can pull you out to sea with alarming speed and even the strongest swimmers cannot swim against them. (he thing to do is to stay calm 3 swim sideways along the shore) until out of the rip 3 only then head for the shore. (he ocean is not to be trifled with 3 doOens of people, some e6perienced some not, die by drowning every year. etty scams are not uncommon" although they can usually !e avoided with a modicum of common sense$ If approached on the street !y any!ody offering a deal on souvenirs" transport" etc$" you can rest assured that you will pay more if you follow your new found friend$ Guard your bags" especially at transport terminals and #erry terminals$ In addition to the risk of them !eing stolen" self#appointed porters like to gra! them without warning and then insist on ridiculous prices for their "services"$ %imeshare scams are common in &ali with several high profile" apparently legitimate operators$ If you are approached !y a very friendly street canvasser asking you to complete a survey and then attend a holiday resort presentation to claim your Apri:eA 6this is inevita!ly a AfreeA holiday which you end up paying for anyway8" politely refuse and walk away$ Nou may also !e cold#called at your hotel to !e told you have Awon a holidayA # the caller may even know your name and nationality thanks to a tip#off from someone who has already seen your data$ If you fall for this scam" you will !e su!jected to a very long" high# pressure sales presentation and if you actually !uy the Aholiday clu!A product" you will certainly regret it$ When leaving &ali" if you have anything glass in your !aggage 6such as duty#free alcohol8 the security guards may put some pressure on you to have it wrapped to keep it safe" and it can seem like its a re(uirement rather than a suggestion 6it is Rp <,",,, a !ag8$ Similarly" when arriving in &ali" some airport officials may offer to take your !ags for you and walk you through customs" !e generally friendly and helpful" and then demand a tip$ =or many" the largest irritant will !e the hawkers and peddlers who linger around temples" malls" beaches" and anywhere tourists congregate$ It may feel difficult or rude to ignore the constant come#ons to !uy souvenirs" food" and assorted junk" !ut it can !e necessary in order to enjoy your holiday in semi#peace$ 4ast !ut not least !e wary around the monkeys that occupy many temples 6most nota!ly 1luwatu and 1!udAs 5onkey =orest8$ %hey are e'perts at stealing possessions like glasses" cameras and even hand!ags" and have !een known to attack people carrying food$ =eeding them is just asking for trou!le$ Ra!ies is present in &ali and several deaths arising from ra!ies infections have !een recorded in early -,))$ Disitors to the island should a!oid contact with dogs" cats" monkeys and other animals that carry the disease$ If !itten seek medical attention$ (he money changing rule is simpleG use only authorised money changers with proper offices and always ask for a receipt. (he largest is called "( #entral !uta and they have several outlets. 2f you are especially nervous, then use a formal bank. @ou may get a better rate at an authorised money changer though. 1void changing money in smaller currency e6change offices located within shops, as they will try to steal money by using very creative methods. Aften the rate advertised on the street is nowhere near the rate that they will give you in the end. ,any times the rate is set higher to lure you in so that they can con you out of a banknote or two, and when this is not possible, they will give you a shoddy rate and state that the difference is due to commission. (his even applies to the places which clearly state that there is no commission. 2f you do get your money changed, always be the last person to count and touch it before you leave the shop. Stay healthy 1lthough the standards of healthcare and emergency facilities have improved greatly in recent years, they remain below what most visitors would be accustomed to in their home country. Whilst minor illness and injury can !e ade(uately treated in the u!i(uitous local clinics most overseas visitors would not !e comforta!le having serious pro!lems dealt with in a local hospital" and insurance coverage for emergency medical evacuation is therefore a wise precaution$ If a medical evacuation is re(uired then patients are normally moved toSingapore or 2erth in /ustralia$ 3akarta" IndonesiaAs capital" does however have some high standard medical care facilities if seeking medical attention at a closer location$ Be aware that the purchase of travel insurance still means that most clinics and hospitals may require payment in advance, or sometimes by incremental payment as various services are rendered. (his may require access to a quite significant amount of cash to keep things moving. 1ny claim is then made to the insurance company upon your return home. (his is almost always the case if the problem is one that can be dealt with on an outpatient basis. ,ake sure that your insurance company has an agreement with the provider or immediately establishes one, otherwise you will also be landed with a bill for an inpatient stay. Bali 2nternational ,edical #entre B2,#) has agreements with many insurance companies and is a well serviced hospital. (his is however a relatively e6pensive option and even they ask for payment for outpatient treatments. (he ma.or travel insurance companies may be slow to respond with appropriate assistance and equally slow to refer a claimant to a suitable medical service. $elays may also be e6perienced if the insurer is slow or indecisive in authorising treatment. $ifficulties may arise from an insurer not authorising a payment guarantee to the local medical services provider. $elays in rendering appropriate treatment are a common outcome. (ry to gain an understanding of the policy terms and limitations of your travel insurance cover prior to departing your home country. (rying to gain an understanding of the limitations of cover whilst amidst a crisis is not recommended. Some insurance companies and their emergency response centres may not live up to your own e6pectations of regional knowledge, appropriate case management and speedy response. @our best insurance is always common-sense, some basic pre#departure research on your destination and the application of good situational awareness whilst travelling. %ry to have your own plan in place to deal with any crisis you may encounter when travelling rather than relying solely upon a possi!ly inade(uately skilled and under#(ualified person sitting in a distant call centre who may have their own role complicated !y pro!lems with language" communication and access to the insurers decision makers$ Nou may wish to consider carrying the names and contact num!ers of one or two of the major local medical and evacuation providers in your wallet or purse so that you know how to (uickly o!tain medical assistance should an emergency arise$ 1lways ensure that you contact your insurer as soon as possi.le should an emergency arise, else you may find they are later unwilling to accept liability for payment for any e6penses that arise. !eep a thorough record of all e6penditures 3 communications with your insurer 3 obtain full 3 detailed invoices 3 receipts for all services provided 3 any incidental costs. 2f you do not understand the detail of anything that you are billed for ask for an e6planation4 if information is not forthcoming withhold payment or authorisation until such time as an acceptable e6planation is given. International S;S Indonesia 6/B/ S;S 5edika8 was founded in Indonesia in )*?7 @ has grown into an international organisation handling a round * million cases per year$ It has a professionally staffed @ operated clinic in &ali$ %hey offer clinic services" hospital referral @ emergency medical evacuation services$ %hey have agreements or associations in place with many of the major travel insurers and are a principal medical service supplier in the SB /sian region" including Indonesia$ (he midday sun in Bali will fry the unwary traveller to a crisp, so slap on plenty of high-factor sun-protection and drink lots of fluids. Bowever there is no need to carry litres of water as you can buy a bottle virtually anywhere. (he locals tend to stay away from the beaches until about two hours before sunset, when most of the ferocity has gone out of the sun. Surfers often e6perience coral cuts or more serious in.uries on the sharp reefs, so it is highly recommended to get "ra!el %nsurance with full 0mergency ,edevac cover. (ravelling to Bali may e6pose you to some risks in contracting one of many tropical diseases that are present in the region. Bali is officially a malaria0free Oone but dengue fe!er is a problem and all sensible precautions should be taken against being bitten by mosquitoes. (ap water in hotels should not be used for drinking or brushing teeth unless e6plicitly labelled as safe. Both drink adulteration with methyl alcohol 5methanol6 and drink spiking in bars and clubs is not uncommon in Bali. Sensible precautions should be taken when buying and consuming beverages. ,ethyl alcohol and other contaminants are highly dangerous and have been found in some locally produced alcoholic drinks including locally made 1rak although precautions must also be taken when buying any mi6ed drink. %he initial symptoms of methyl alcoholGmethanol into'ication include central nervous system depression" headache" di::iness" nausea" lack of co#ordination and confusion$ If methyl alcohol poisoning is suspected seek medical assistance immediately$ %he EID infection rate in &ali is increasing" mainly amongst se' workers of !oth genders and intravenous drug users$ If you engage in any risky activity" always protect yourself$ Contact 2t is very unlikely you will find a working public telephone on the street, which can be very frustrating in emergency situations. $epending on your circumstances, you may have to rely on mobile phones or phonePinternet shops. "urchasing a local S2, card is recommended if you foresee that you will have to make multiple calls during your stay. (here are several cellular operators 2n BaliG (elkomsel sim"1(2) and 2ndosat 2,I) have the largest coverage area. 2n addition to +S,, you can find #$,1 operator Smart). &ocal calls from hotel rooms are charged an e6pensive flagfall and per minute rate. Budget accommodationa are unlikely to offer telephone services to guests. 2nternational phone operatorsG 797. 2nternational $irect $ialling prefi6G 997, 998, or 99>. $irectory inquiresG 79> if using a cell phone locally dial the area code you are in eg 9IC7) and then 79>) 2mmigration officeG 'iti ,andala, Eenon, $enpasar. LC: IC7 ::8>:>4 2 +usti $"S 1irport. LC: IC7 8;79I>. 'rea Codes Bali has si6 area codes. 9IC7G all of South Bali, +ianyar, (abanan and *bud 9IC:G &ovina, "emuteran and Singara.a 9ICIG 1med, #andidasa, !arangasem, !intamani, "adang Bai, (irta +angga 9IC;G 'egara, +ilimanuk, ,edewi Beach, West Bali 'ational "ark 9ICCG Bangli, Besakih, !intamani, !lungkung, 'usa #eningan, 'usa &embongan, 'usa "enida, ,t 1gung 9IC>G Bedugul Emergency 1mbulanceG 77>. 2ndonesian Eed #ross ",2), free ambulance service. LC: IC7 <>9:>:. "oliceG 779. Search 3 Eescue teamG 77; or 7;7, LC: IC7 8;7777. (ourist "oliceG LC: IC7 8;<;== or LC: IC7 8CI8;I Bali "olice B/G %l WE Supratman, $enpasar. LC: IC7 ::8877 . Badung "olice B/G %l +unung Sanghyang, $enpasar. LC: IC7 <:<:<;. ,olice stations7 $enpasarG %l 1hmad @ani. LC: IC7 ::;<;C. SanurG %l By "ass 'gurah Eai. LC: IC7 :>>;=8. !utaG %l Eaya (uban. LC: IC7 8;7;=>. 'usa $uaG %l By "ass 'usa $ua. LC: IC7 88:779. Hospitals with 89 hours emergency room 5E$67 ES *mum Sanglah, %l !esehatan 7, $enpasar. LC: IC7 :<II98, ::8=77, ::;<>I, :C;9C<. ES *mum Badung, %l Eaya !apal ,engwi, $enpasar. LC: IC7 8<:7>>9. ES *mum $harma *sadha, %l %end Sudirman ;9, $enpasar. LC: IC7 ::8;C9, :II8>C, :II8>8. ES *mum ,anuaba, %l BAS #okroaminoto :>, $enpasar. LC: IC7 <:CI=I, ::CI=I. ES *mum Surya Busadha JC<K, %l "ulau Serangan 7-I, $enpasar. LC: IC7 :II8>8. ES *mum Wangaya, %l E1 !artini 7II, $enpasar. LC: IC7 :::7<7. Selected medical clinics with English language a.ilities7 South Bali Bali 2nternational ,edical #entre B2,#), %l By "ass 'gurah Eai 799 N, !uta. JC;K, LC: IC7 8C7:CI. ,anuaba, %l Eaya !uta 'usa 2ndah "laOa Bl 2N, !uta. LC: IC7 8;<8<>. 'usa $ua ,edical, 'usa $ua Beach Botel, 'uas $ua. LC: IC7 88:77>. Surya Busadha, %l $anau Buyan <8, Sanur. JCCK, LC: IC7 :>;:IC. %l. !artika "laOa =-N. LC: IC7 8;:=<8. SAS, %l By "ass 'gurah Eai ;9;N, !uta. JC8K, LC: IC7 879;9;. Central Bali *bud #linic, %l Eaya *bud IC, *bud. JC>K, LC: IC7 =8<=77. East Bali !lungkung Bospital, %l -lamboyan <9-<:, !lungkung. LC: ICC-:778: &orth Bali "rodia #linic, %l E1 !artini 7:, Singara.a. LC: IC: :<;7C. West Bali !erta @asa #linic, %l 'gurah Eai 7<I, 'egara. LC: IC; <7:<>.