THE SPIRITUAL TRAIL

MAJELLA MOUNTAINS, ABRUZZO, ITALY

Serramonacesca - Sulmona
85km from 400m to 2000m asl


A growing curiosity into the ley line of the St Michael/Apollo axis that crosses Abruzzo as it travels
between Ireland and Greece, sparked more than a passing interest in the lives and paths of the
Celestine monks of the thirteenth century. Call it what you will: a ley line, the path of light, or
simply the trail of pilgrims and shepherds as they chart their wanderings by the constellations of
the stars, the connections between the hermits of the Maiella and the path of light were enough to
fuel that curiosity further, pack enough kit for four days and take off in their footsteps along the
Spiritual Trail over the mountains of the Majella National Park.

The Majella

An intensely spiritual place, the Majella (pronounced, and often spelled, Maiella) is within the
south-central Italian region of Abruzzo.
Abruzzo, isolated for centuries because of
its formidable natural defences, is the
heartland of the Apennines mountains and
the most completely mountainous region of
Italy.

The Majella has been called, in equal
measure, the Sacred Mountain and the
Mother Majella, names that conjure up
pictures of a quiet magic yet hides its
reputation as a hostile wilderness with
erce winters and unforgiving terrain.

According to legend, the Majella was
formed when Maya, the Goddess of the
Earth, came to its peaks seeking a
special herb to heal her sick son, but
she failed to reach the top before he
died. Dying in deep sorrow, her heart
broken for her loss, Maya reappeared in
the unique form of the rounded Majella,
the sleeping beauty of Abruzzo, that
rises up quickly from lowland to
mountain top.

To call the Mother Maiella a mountain
oversimplies it. The Majella is a
fantastically complex clustering of 61
peaks of over 2000m, and 75 lower lying
hills. Its whale-like shape is not easily understood from afar as her peaks remain largely hidden
and her aspect constantly changes with the light and the seasons.

Variously and simultaneously considered imposing, unpredictable and uninhabitable, the Majella
ultimately retains an aura of phenomenal beauty, space and peace, capable of making your heart
swell and soar over and over again. But is it simply her beauty, high peaks, spectacular gorges
and fascinating labyrinth of limestone caves that has drawn hermits, pilgrims and travellers for
centuries? Or is there something else, something more? A magnetic force, an energy, a ley line,
that pulled them all in?

The Spiritual Trail

The Spiritual Trail crosses the wilderness of the Majella and the Majella Morrone for 85km from the
small village of Serramonacesca (the land of the monks) on the north-eastern slopes to the
historical town of Sulmona on the mid-western side. It is an ancient trail linking the key Celestine
hermitages (eremi) of the Majella, some are still nothing more than simple caves with a bed and
altar chipped out of the stone, others like the eremo Santo Spirito have, from around the XII
century, become elaborate structures built into the rock of the deep gorges.

The trail starts and nishes at an
elevation of around 400m asl, but
throughout its 85km length you
will scale three major peaks, the
highest at just over 2000m asl,
and steeply descend into the
gorges of two spectacular valleys.

You will follow the tumbling waters
of mountain rivers, wander
amongst wolves and bears of the
forests and walk amongst wild
horses on the high plains.
Throughout your journey the views
are breathtaking and you will barely
see another soul.




Your accommodation will be a combination
of wild camping in your own tent, sleeping
in a rifugio (opposite) and, should you wish
it, a bit of luxury in a B&B as you overnight
in the spa town of Caraminico.




THE ROUTE

We chose to go from east to west, starting from Serramonacesca and nishing in Sulmona, for the
simple reason that it was far easier for us to get back to Serramonacesca from Sulmona, rather
than the other way round.

How to get to Serramonacesca: Ryan Air (http://www.ryanair.com) has regular ights to Pescara
which is only 30km from Serramonacesca. Buses and trains run from Pescara to Chieti Scalo:
Arpa (http://www.arpaonline.it) for buses, Trenitalia (http://www.trenitalia.com) for trains.

Arpa buses run twice daily from Chieti Scalo to Serramonacesca, timetables can be viewed online.

If its easier for you to y into Rome, buses between Rome Tiburtina and Chieti Scalo run
throughout the day, take only 2.5 hours and cost around 15#.

If you stay at Kokopelli Camping in Serramonacesca, they will do transfers from Pescara (35#) or
Chieti Scalo (25#).

Where to stay in Serramonacesca: Kokopelli Camping, just off the Spiritual Trail, has excellent
facilities for camping and also has rooms available and bell tents for hire
(www.kokopellicamping.co.uk); Ostello San Liberatore in the heart of Serramonacesca village, has
bunk style accommodation (http://www.ostellosanliberatore.com). For a B&B there is Le Pietre
Ricce in nearby Roccamontepiano which is an hours walk across the hills from the start of the trail
(www.lepietrericce.it).
Day 1, Serramonacesca to Roccamorice
20km, 400 - 950m asl (1097m ascent, 682m descent)

Monasteries, hermitages & caves: Abbazia di San
Liberatore, Eremo di San Onofrio (opposite), Grotta
San Angelo
Terrain: Beech woods, open plains & gorges
Water points: Fonte San Onofrio, Fosso San Angelo
Where to stay: B&B Santo Spirito Roccamorice
(http://montabruzzo.abruzzen-online.de) is
immediately on the Spiritual Trail just above the
Eremo San Bartolomeo. Alternatively, extend your
day an extra 5km and wild camp in the woods
beyond the eremo.
Day 2, Roccamorice to Rifugio di Marco
20km, 820 - 1700m asl (1370m ascent, 610m descent)

Monasteries, hermitages & caves: eremi San Bartolomeo (above), Santo Spirito and San Giovanni
Terrain: Beech woods, rivers & gorges
Water points: Fonte at Santo Spirito, fosso Santo Spirito, Fonte Centiate (signed en route to rifugio
di Marco
Where to stay: Rifugio di Marco
Day 3, Rifugio di Marco to Caramanico Terme
12km, 1700 - 600m asl (210m ascent, 1273m descent)

Monasteries, hermitages & caves: eremo
San Onofrio, Orfento valley
Terrain: Woods, rivers and gorges
Water points: Orfento river
Where to stay: Caramanico Terme
(opposite) is a reasonable sized town
with accommodation ranging from a
luxury thermal spa to camping and
hostels.

The following can be recommended:
camping & hostel type accommodation at
Casa del Lupo (www.majambiente.it),
which is also a key visitor centre to the
Park, B&B Antico Borgo in the historic
centre (http://www.anticoborgobb.it)
Day 4, Caramanico Terme to Eremo San Pietro
18km, 450 - 2000m asl (1700m ascent, 670m descent)

Monasteries, hermitages & caves: eremo San Pietro
Terrain: woods, open plains, mountain summit, gorges
Water points: village of San Vittorino, fonte della casetta in the woods just before eremo San Pietro
Where to stay: wild camp in the woods close to the water source of fonte della casetta just before
reaching San Pietro
Day 5, Eremo San Pietro to Badia Morronese, Sulmona
15km, 1400 - 400m asl (370m ascent, 1340m descent)

Monasteries, hermitages & caves: eremi San Pietro (above) and San Onofrio, Badia Morronese
Terrain: woods and tracks
Water points: Sulmona
Travel from Sulmona back to Serramonacesca: trains between Sulmona and Chieti run regularly
throughout the day for around 5# per person. The train station is a 7km walk from the Badia
Morronese, a point worth remembering before you have your second celebratory beer at the little
bar next to the monastery!
Maps
The ofcial map of the Park in scale 1:50,000 can be purchased at any of the visitor centres of the
Park or online at http://www.majambiente.it/Carta-dei-sentieri.htm

An interactive online version of the map can be viewed on the Park website: http://www.parks.it/
parco.nazionale.majella/Emap.php

A more detailed hiking map (1:25,000) can be purchased online from Edizioni il Lupo: http://
eshop.edizioniillupo.it/store/product_info.php?products_id=1124

For sat nav devices, there is the Trek Mappa Italia from Garmin, which although costly at around
#180 does cover all the main hiking regions of Italy, including the Majella. This can be purchased
from the Garmin site at https://buy.garmin.com/en-GB/GB/maps/on-the-trail-maps/topo-pro/
trekmap-italia-v3-pro/prod113579.html

For a cheaper option, an excellent digital map of the Majella, compatible with Garmin devices, can
be purchased for around #60 from Digital Walking Maps at http://digitalwalkingmaps.eu/
South_italy_map/south_italy_map.html#majella2
How long to take
Although we completed the trail in 4 days and 3 nights,
to fully appreciate the scenery, the villages you pass
and, of course, the eremi themselves, we do recommend
taking longer.

The eremi are fascinating structures. Some, such as
Santo Spirito (opposite), are quite elaborate and warrant
at least an hour or two wandering the labyrinth of
corridors,
cells and
rooms.

Others, such as San Giovanni (opposite), are tricky
to get to as they are hidden within steep, rocky
gorges with narrow approaches requiring sure-
footedness and a head for heights. Five days and
four nights would be ideal.

When to do it
Winters on the Majella can be harsh and much of the route will be snow bound between November
and March. Although much of the route is in the dappled shade of the woods, a lot is on open
plains. August, when temperatures can easily reach 30 - 40 degrees celsius, will be far too hot to
make the route comfortable. You will also need more water, which will mean carrying extra weight
in already heavy packs as the water points are, at times, far apart. Early spring, March and April, is
a beautiful time with the hills nally shaking off the weight of winter and everything is bursting into
glorious life. However, it can be wet at this time.

The optimum time, therefore, for taking the trail is either May, June, early July, September and
October. We chose the last week of September and this was just perfect.
B&Bs, wild camping & rifugio (mountain huts) in the Majella

So long as youre sensitive
as to where you stay, and
leave without a trace in the
morning, you can pitch up
along the route. Be aware,
however, that you will be
sharing your space with the
wildlife of the Majella, which
does include wolves and
bears, so keep your food and
rubbish away. With so many
nocturnal animals, nights can
be noisy!

There are a number of rifugio
along the way where you are more than welcome to stay. Most have replaces and a table and
chairs. Some have a store of wood, but generally you will have to collect your own. Some have
basic bunks for sleeping, but be prepared to bed down on the oor (or pitch your tent outside). Any
mattresses are best avoided or you may nd your sleeping bag becomes host to a number of itchy
visitors who will be reluctant to leave!

If youd rather break your journey with the luxury of a hotel or B&B, you will pass close to the small
village of Roccamorice and go throughout the spa town of Caramanico Terme.
Water
There are a number of drinking fountains (fonte) along the route utilising mountain springs, these
are perfectly safe to drink. Indeed some, such as the waters at San Onofrio in Serramonacesca,
are said to have health giving benets. These are often marked on the map as fonte, or with a
sign post directing the
way.

The waters from the
tumbling streams that
you will cross are
clean and fresh. We
are happy to drink
directly from these,
and have done so
many times, but, to be
safe, you may want to
add a purifying tablet.

Camping outside a rifugio on the Morrone
As you will be collecting and carrying your water, it is recommended that you take two x 2-3 litre
water bladders. You will need water for cooking as well as drinking. The route involves long
climbs in places, so dont underestimate the amount you will need to drink.



The Hermits and the Celestine Monks
The history behind the trail

My journeys of ley line research along the St Michael/Apollo axis have taken me not only to the
hermits, but to dragons, myths & legends, Knights Templars, pagans and archangels. Knights
Templars and pagan worship I have found in the Majella, myths and legends a plenty. As critical as
the Archangel St Michael is to the theory of ley lines, I shall park him for now. The hermits, on the
other hand, being better documented, particularly Peter of the Morrone who, for the simple reason
that he was to become Pope Celestine V and the founding father of the religious order of the
Celestine monks, I could follow, both literally across the Spiritual Trail of the Majella and through
the written history of his life.

To fully understand the phenomenon of the hermits, we start our journey in the 4th or 5th century
with San Onofrio (or Onophrius), of which three of the Majella hermitages are dedicated.
Onophrius lived at the time when
Christianity was emerging as the
dominant faith of the Roman
Empire, a period when many
Christians were inspired to live a
life of solitude in prayer and
penance for the love of God.
Onophrius lived his hermit life for
70 years, dwelling in the harsh
environment of the desert of
Upper Egypt dressed in nothing
but his long hair and a loin cloth
of leaves, the gure that you see
in the eremo in Serramonacesca
(opposite).

Word of the way of life of
Onuphrius spread across the
Middle East, Eastern and Western
Europe, where many churches and monasteries have been built in his honour. The long list where
he is depicted, amongst many others, include Poland, Russia, Jerusalem, Germany, Turkey and, of
course, Italy and the Majella. His feast day is marked on June 12, the date of his death, which is
celebrated every year in the Majella village of Serramonacesca where we begin our travels.

From the life of San Onofrio, we jump about 700 years to the 13th Century and the life of the
hermit, Pietro (or Peter) of the Morrone. Born in 1215 to a poor and humble family in SantAngelo
Limosano in neighbouring Molise, Pietro became a Benedictine monk in his late adolescence, but
left the monastery in his early 20s to pursue life as a hermit in a cave on Mont Morrone of the
Majella. He led a pious life, fasting every day apart from Sunday, wearing a haircloth shirt
roughened with knots and a chain of iron around his emaciated frame. His entire day, and much of
his night, was dedicated to prayer and labour.

Pietros life of solitude was not to last. As news of his saintly piety spread, others tried to follow
him and imitate his rule of life. Pietro withdrew to a deeper, wilder and more inaccessible cave of
the Majella (Eremo di San Giovanni), but a community of fellow hermits still developed on the
Majella that grew incessantly. By the time of his death in 1296 he had established the religious
order of the Celestine monks, with 600 Celestini and 36 monasteries.

The late 1200s was a battleeld of religious and political controversy with France, England, the
Spanish Aragon and the reigning Popes in bitter conict. It was into this turmoil that Pietro, in the
latter years of his life, was thrown. In 1292 the reigning Pope Nicholas IV died and the feuds
amongst inghting cardinals and their clans meant that more than two years passed with the
conclave being unable to agree on the succeeding Pope.

After a two year impasse, the unrest between the rival factions became more serious and the
legitimate election of a new Pope became more urgent. It was amongst this chaos that the
powerful Cardinal Orsini reported that God had told him to elevate a pious hermit to the papacy, or
face divine chastisement. This proposition was seized upon by the exhausted conclave and the
election was made unanimous. Who better to control and manipulate, thought the Cardinals, but
an aged, simple and almost illiterate Benedictine hermit?

Pietro, now aged 79, reluctantly left
his beloved Majella and, with tears in
his eyes, accepted the decision and
became Pope Celestine V,
reasoning that it was the will of God.
He was crowned not in Rome but in
his familiar church of Santa Maria
Collemaggio in Aquila within
Abruzzo, a church that he had had
constructed many years before
when inspired by a dream that the
Virgin Mary had asked him to build a
church on that spot.

He was, however, a weak and
ineffectual Pope within a power-laden ecclesiastical system and made many serious mistakes in
the ve short months of his papacy. Eventually he expressed a wish to resign and, possibly
manipulated by the wily canon lawyer Cardinal Caetani (who was later to succeed Celestine V as
the next Pope, Boniface VIII), effected his resignation, donned his hermits garb and retraced his
steps back to the solitude of the depths of the Majella. The legitamacy of his resignation was
challenged and Boniface issued orders that he be detained. Celestine escaped capture within
the Majella for several months before attempting to ee to Greece with the help of his friends and
compatriots. He was nally captured at the foot of Mount Gargano in Puglia, southern Italy and
delivered into the hands of Boniface VIII who conned the old man to a dank and dark cell in the
castle of Fumone near Anagni. Celestine died here, in his 81st year.

In 1313 San Pietro was canonised and his remains were transferred to the church of Santa Maria
Collemaggio in Aquilla, where they remain to this day despite the Basilica (as it is now) being
severely damaged by the earthquake of
2009. San Pietros remains miraculously
survived.

Understood in the context of all that has
gone before, The Spiritual Trail becomes
far more than simply another multi-day
hike, albeit amongst spectacular scenery. It
is a journey through time and history that
you cannot fail to feel deeply, becoming
completely absorbed and in awe.
Eremo San Pietro, Majella Morrone
Wild camping on the Majella Morrone
THE MAJELLA, WITH KEY POINTS ALONG THE SPIRITUAL TRAIL HIGHLIGHTED