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This document summarizes a student report that compares the Pierson-Moskowitz (PM) and JONSWAP wave spectrum models. The report uses MATLAB to simulate wave spectra using both models for different wind velocities and fetch lengths. It finds that the JONSWAP model, which accounts for fetch, produces lower wave heights than the PM model at short fetches. At longer fetches, the two models converge. The simulations are verified by comparison to experimental data from previous studies.
Description originale:
Matlab based comparison of JONSWAP and PM wave spectrums.
This document summarizes a student report that compares the Pierson-Moskowitz (PM) and JONSWAP wave spectrum models. The report uses MATLAB to simulate wave spectra using both models for different wind velocities and fetch lengths. It finds that the JONSWAP model, which accounts for fetch, produces lower wave heights than the PM model at short fetches. At longer fetches, the two models converge. The simulations are verified by comparison to experimental data from previous studies.
This document summarizes a student report that compares the Pierson-Moskowitz (PM) and JONSWAP wave spectrum models. The report uses MATLAB to simulate wave spectra using both models for different wind velocities and fetch lengths. It finds that the JONSWAP model, which accounts for fetch, produces lower wave heights than the PM model at short fetches. At longer fetches, the two models converge. The simulations are verified by comparison to experimental data from previous studies.
Wave Spectrum Calculation Assignment: Comparing Pierson and Moskowitz with JONSWAP models Alex Fuglsang 155229 06/08/2014 Abstract This report studies the JONSWAP and PM wave spectrum models. The differences of the two models are analysed theoretically using MATLAB and through literature. Various simulations of each spectrum are provided to compare different wind velocities and fetch lengths. These simulations are compared to spectral densities from measured in previous experiments. Using the theoretical wave spectrums, estimations are made of various resulting wave parameters including significant wave height and mean wave period. Nomenclature Symbol Description Units F Fetch length m f
Wave frequency Hz f p Peak wave frequency Hz g
Gravity m/s 2
H
Wave height m S Wave spectrum density m 2 /Hz T Wave period s W Wind Velocity m/s
1 Introduction The ability to predict sea states and the energy that waves can impart onto offshore structures and vessels is the reasoning behind studies such as the Pierson-Moskowitz and Joint North Sea Wave Observation Project studied here. The Pierson-Moskowitz study on wave spectral density was conducted in 1964 in the Atlantic Ocean (Stewart, 2006). This study assumed that if a constant wind blows over a large area over a long time period a fully developed sea will form; that is the waves come into equilibrium with the wind. This study was performed in the Northern Atlantic, with large fetch distances, and fetch was not considered in the Pierson-Moskowitz (PM) equation. This study produced the plot of wave spectral density with respect to frequency (Hz) for various wind speeds in Figure 1-1, below.
Figure 1-1: Pierson-Moskowitz wave spectral density (Stewart, 2006). The Joint North Sea Wave Observation Project (JONSWAP) was conducted 160 km off the west coast of Denmark in the North Sea during 1969 (Hasselmann, 1973). This study found that the wave spectrum is never fully developed, even over large distances and time. Due to this, fetch was introduced into the theoretical model to better fit the measured data. Figure 1-2 displays JONSWAP spectral density against frequency for different fetch distances. Fetch is a particularly important factor for fetch limited seas such as those in the North Sea.
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Figure 1-2: JONSWAP Spectral density for different fetch distances (Stewart, 2006). 2 Theory Typical wave spectra are determined through equations such as the one below (equation(1.1)). A and B are constants, and f is frequency in hertz.
4 5 (f) B f A S e f (1.1) The PM equation uses wind speed (W) measured at 19.5m above the sea surface;
4 2 0.74 2 4 5 ( ) 2 g Wf g S f e f (1.2) Where = 0.0081. From the PM spectrum significant wave height and peak wave frequency can be calculated using equations (1.3) and(1.4):
2 0 0.21 m W H g (1.3)
0.87 2 p g f W (1.4) The JONSWAP spectrum modifies the PM model to include the effects of fetch. This is seen by the addition of gamma in equation(1.5)
4 1.25 2 4 5 ( ) 2 p f f a g S f e f (1.5)
In this equation peak frequency (fp), and have fetch (F) as a variable, as equations(1.6),(1.7) and (1.8) show, respectively:
0.22 2 3.5 p g gF f W W (1.6)
0.33 2 0.076 gF W (1.7)
0.143 2 7 gF W (1.8) To calculate a, equation (1.9) is used.
2 2 2 2 p p f f f a e (1.9)
0.07 0.09 p p when f f when f f
From the spectral density equations (1.2) and (1.5) other wave parameters such as spectral moments (m 0,1,2 ), mean wave period (T 1 ), mean zero-crossing period (T z ), significant wave height (H m0 or H s ) and maximum wave height (H max ) can be calculated.
0 ( ) n n m f S f df (1.10)
0 1 01 1 m m T T m (1.11)
0 2 z m T m (1.12)
0 0 4 s m H H m (1.13)
max 1.86 s H H (1.14) 3 Methodology and Results MATLAB is utilised to process the equations listed above. Wind velocity for both PM and JONSWAP are entered as user defined variables from a menu. Fetch is selected from a second variable menu for the JONSWAP spectrum. Frequency is varied from 0 to 0.5 Hz for both models. The wind and fetch variables are run through equations (1.2) - (1.9) to obtain wave spectrums for JONSWAP and PM equations. These spectrums are compared in the plots in Figure 3-1 and Figure 3-2 on the next page. The conditions for these plots are wind velocity of 10 m/s and 200 km and 50 km fetch respectively. Equations (1.3) and (1.4) are not used in this program, instead equations (1.10) to (1.14) are utilised for calculating the wave parameters listed in Table 3-1.
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Figure 3-1: JONSWAP spectrum compared to PM spectrum at 10m/s wind speed and 200km fetch
Figure 3-2: Comparing JONSWAP at 50 km fetch with PM By integrating S(f) from zero to infinity as described in equation(1.10), each plot can be used to determine the respective spectral moment. This spectral moment is then used to develop the wave parameters listed in Table 3-1, below. Table 3-1: Predicted wave parameters Parameter PM Spectrum at 10 m/s JONSWAP spectrum at 10m/s and 200km H s (m) 2.13 2.59 H max (m) 3.98 4.82 T 1 (s) 5.64 6.06 T z (s) 5.19 5.60 m 0 (m) 0.284 0.419 As well as the comparison graph in Figure 3-1 and the results listed above, this MATLAB program takes the wave velocity and fetch variables inputted by the user and displays individual plots of each spectrum. 4 Discussion As Figure 3-1clearly displays, at an appropriate fetch distance (in this case 200 km) both the JONSWAP and PM spectrum densities reach their maximum at the same frequency. When fetch is relatively low; less than 100km, the maximum wave spectral density of the JONSWAP model is lower than that of the PM spectrum (Figure 3-2). As the fetch is increased the JONSWAP spectrum density overtakes the PM as shown in Figure 3-1. The frequency of the JONSWAP waves also increases at lower fetches, indicating shorter period, less developed wave states. In Figure 4-1 the original data recorded in the 1964 PM study is compared to the theoretical models. There are some small variations in wind velocity and irregularities in the plot (as expected). However the overall size, shape and peak spectral density correlate very strongly. This verifies the accuracy of the MATLAB program performing these calculations.
Figure 4-1: Comparing the PM spectral model with experimental data (Stewart, 2006). Figure 4-2 on the next page is used to compare the JONSWAP model produced by the MATLAB program with the data collected by Hasselmann et all in 1974. Similar to the PM model, the JONSWAP plots that are produced by this MATLAB program have strong correlation with the data obtained experimentally. A constant velocity of 18 m/s is used to obtain this correlation. It is also assumed that the station numbers are close to the fetch
4 distance of each station. There are too many assumptions for this wave spectrum to be considered accurate, however the peak spectrum densities are similar, and the relationship with the PM spectrum is encouraging, and similar to what was expected. For a more accurate variation more comparison data is required.
Figure 4-2: Comparing theoretical JONSWAP with recorded data (Hasselmann, 1973). 5 Conclusion As expected, the JONSWAP spectrum returns far lower spectrum densities for low fetch distances than the PM model. This reflects the greater accuracy that adjusting the wave spectrum equation for fetch provides; it is impossible for a fully developed sea to occur in areas with limited fetch. The PM equation returns less error as the fetch increases, with the peak wave spectral densities for the two models converging at approximately 100 km of fetch. Fetch is a major factor in the propergation in waves, and to ignore it is a major over simplification in calculating important paremeters such as wave height, wave period and frequency and spectral density. By comparing the results delivered by the MATLAB program with the previous studies and by comparing the two models, it can be verified that this program provides a reasonable representation of the JONSWAP and PM wave spectrum models.
6 References Alves, J. H. (2003). Revisiting the PiersonMoskowitz Asymptotic Limits for Fully Developed Wind Waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 1301- 1323. Hasselmann, K. (1973). Measurements of Wind-Wave Growth and Swell Decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP). Hamburg: Deutsches Hydrographisches Institut. Kibblewhite, K. C. (1989). An Examination of Fetch- Limited Wave Growth off the West Coast of New Zealand by a Comparison with the JONSWAP Results. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 1278- 1296. Stewart, R. H. (2006, November 15). Ocean-Wave Spectra. Retrieved from OceanWorld: http://oceanworld.tamu.edu/resources/ocng_textboo k/chapter16/chapter16_04.htm
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