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Gen-Prom, UNDP 1 KSA-Technopak








Guidelines

Fabric Store and Cutting Room
Management





KSA-Technopak














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Gen-Prom, UNDP 2 KSA-Technopak
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Title Page No.

General Introduction 3
Section A - Fabric Store 4
Process Flow Chart
Fabric Store Activity Chart
Section B - Cutting Room 6
Process Flow Chart
Process Description
Cutting Room Activity Chart

Material Movement 11

Material Storage 12

Annexure 15
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 3 KSA-Technopak
General Introduction

The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of materials into the
necessary pattern shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to create
three-dimensional garments. Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a
lay is created which consists of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From
this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut.
The pattern shapes for these garments may be drawn on a paper marker placed on top
of the lay, or information as to their shape and position may be held within a computer,
to be plotted similarly on a paper marker or used to drive an automatic cutter.

Why cutting room management is so important?

Cutting room is an extremely important section in the garment manufacturing process
which has a major impact on the profitability of the business. Following are the few
reasons which describe the importance of the efficient management of the cutting room
in garment manufacturing process:

Cutting room being the feeding point to the factory has massive impact on all the
further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing, finishing etc.
Efficient and well planned operations in cutting room ensures smooth flow of
work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the utilization of the
available resources.
Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest contributor to
the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of the fabric will have a
huge affect on the margins of the orders.
Cutting being the first operation of garment manufacturing lays the foundation of
quality of the garment to be made. Any imperfection in cutting process can result
in non-conformance of the quality standards of all further processes.

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Gen-Prom, UNDP 4 KSA-Technopak
FABRIC STORE


1. Process Flow Chart:


Fabric
Inspection
Reject Racks Reject Racks
Lab Test
Reject / Held
For Decision
Reject
Pass
Approval
Bulk Lot
submission
Y
N
GSM Confirmation
Lot cards
Lab Test
Quarantine
Area
Approved
Not Approved
Approved
Not Approved
Fabric
Inspection
Not Approved
Approved
Pass
Racks
Pass
Racks
Reject
Racks
Reject
Racks
Bulk lot
Approval
card
In house
Greige
Fabric
Register
Merchandiser
Approval
Merchandiser
Approval
Approved
Lab
Dip
Processed
Fabric receipt
Register
Knitting
Reconciliation
Register
GSM
Report
Greige Fabric
Rolls received
Quarantine Area Pass Racks Knitter
Fabric weight/ GSM
Confirmation
Pass Pass
Processors
Greige Fabric
Receipt
register
**Purchase
Order /
Indent
Approved
swatch
Greige
Fabric Insp.
Report
Greige Fabric
Rolls received
Greige Fabric
Rolls received
Quarantine Area Quarantine Area Pass Racks Pass Racks Knitter Knitter
Fabric weight/ GSM
Confirmation
Pass Pass
Processors Processors
Greige Fabric
Receipt
Register
Purchase
Order /
Indent
Approved
swatch
Greige
Fabric Insp.
Report
Fabric Insp.
Report
Test
Report
Test
Report
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 5 KSA-Technopak


2) Fabric Storage

The fabric as received from the processing is kept in the quarantine area before storing
in heavy duty fabric storage racks. It is the responsibility of fabric stores in-charge to
store the fabric safely & correctly. The fabric stores in charge records every day fabric
stock in Fabric Stock Register.

3) Fabric Inspection

Before issuing the fabric to any further process proper inspection is carried out for the
received lot of fabric to judge whether the quality of the received fabric is as per the
approved standards or not. The inspection should be done as explained in the audit
report. Only approved quality fabric is issued to the next process. Along with the physical
quality inspection certain lab test like GSM, colour fastness, shrinkage etc are also
carried out on the fabric. Fabric is classified as pass only if the test result conforms to
the set standards.

4) Fabric Issue

Fabric after inspection is kept in different racks as per the result of the inspection carried
out. Based on the results of the inspection the fabric is classified under 3 different
categories, which are:
Pass
Reject
On hold
Fabric under these 3 categories should be kept in different racks to avoid any mixing and
all racks should have proper information of the fabric being stored in them for easy
access. The fabric department issues the fabric to the cutting department against Fabric
Requisition Slip and makes the entry in Fabric Issue Register.

C. Fabric Stores Activity Chart







Meet the requirement of
the various departments
Stores In-Charge Issue Stocks
Quality measurement of
the received material
Stores In-Charge Check Receipts
Output Resources Activity
Meet the requirement of
the various departments
Stores In-Charge Issue Stocks
Quality measurement of
the received material
Stores In- Check Receipts
Output Resources Activity
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 6 KSA-Technopak
CUTTING ROOM


a. CUTTING PROCESS FLOW CHART

















Cuts Indent
Cutting
Plan
Pattern
Copy
Fabric
Details
Fabric
Request
Fabric
Request
Fabric
Receipt
Fabric
Receipt
Pilot Run
Approval
Pilot Run
Approval
Request
Marker
Request
Marker
Marker
Receipt
Marker
Receipt
Lay
Planning
Cut order and
Lay
Planning
Checking
Checking
Parts Replacement
Parts Replacement
Issuance of Cuts/ Excess
Fabric
Issuance of Cuts
Not
O.K.
O.K.
Cutting
Report
Cutting
Worksheet
Lay
Reconciliation
Report
Spreading
Cut
Cutting
Bundling
Bundling
Lay order
Report
Cutting
Audit Report
Issue
Register

End Bits
Register
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 7 KSA-Technopak
b. PROCESS DESCRIPTION

1) Cutting Planning:

Cutting Room Planning is very important and should be done for every order. Good
planning helps in better utilization of available resources and improving cutting room
efficiencies. The cutting plan should be made well in advance to allocate resources and
check on fabric availability & flow for the planned cutting. Various things that should be
kept in mind while making cutting plan are:-

i) Requirements of sewing room
ii) Availability & flow of raw-material i.e. fabric
iii) Available Manpower
iv) Constraints of work-place

2) Cutting Work order:

The planning department issues a cutting work order to the cutting department for
commencing cutting for any particular order. The work order states the size wise quantity
to be cut in that style and the fabric required for the total quantity mentioned in the work
order. The cutting In-charge makes a daily cutting plan for the work order quantity and
does the resource allocation. The work order also gives an estimate of the fabric that
should be taken from the fabric store.

3) Fabric Receipt:

The cutting room in charge requests fabric from the fabric store based on the daily
cutting plan made by the cutting room executive. The fabric is requested using Fabric
Requisition Slip format.
The cutting room helper gets the fabric from the stores & transfers it to cutting room with
the help of fabric movement trolley. The fabric received is stored in the fabric racks
within the cutting-room.

4) Fabric Relaxation

The fabric received in the roll form should be relaxed for at least 12 hours under
standard conditions before spreading. This is done in order to take out any tension in the
fabric imparted during finishing or winding so as to avoid any distortion while spreading
or cutting.

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Gen-Prom, UNDP 8 KSA-Technopak
5) Marker Request

The Cutting Executive requests the marker from the CAD department on a format called
CAD Marker Requisition Slip. The details of the fabric (e.g. width) received from fabric
store needs to be provided to the CAD room for marker so that the provided marker
could be adjusted as per the received fabric to minimise wastage.

6) Spreading & Marking

Before Spreading, the lay plan should be prepared & a lay order slip is generated by the
cutting executive. The lay order slip provides all relevant details to the spreader for the
lay i.e. style, fabric width, no. of plies, marker way, consumption for that lay etc. The
spreader has to follow the lay-order slip for considerations during spreading & if she
founds any deviations in the actual, it should be reported to the cutting executive. After
the spreading is done, the lay should be checked by the QC and a format called Cutting
Room Inspection Report is generated. After the lay is cleared by the QC, it goes for next
operation i.e. marking. The marking could be done manually by patterns or paper marker
could be fixed on top ply to make it ready for manual cutting.

7) Cutting

The ready to cut lay is moved onto the area allocated for cutting within the spreading &
cutting table. Air-flotation table is used for easy movement of lays. The cutter cuts the lay
with the straight-knife along the marker lines. For any small parts or sharp turns, where
precision cant be achieved by straight knife, the parts can be taken to band knife after
block-cutting. For some styles (e.g. engineered stripes) where lay cutting is not possible
due to matching of stripes, single piece cutting is done with the help of scissors.

8) Numbering & Bundling

Once the lay is cut the cut parts are numbered, all parts that makes one complete
garments are given same number so as to avoid any mismatching of shade. After
numbering the pieces are bundled into a group of certain pieces. The size of the bundle
is decided by the cutting-room in charge, in discussion with the sewing floor in charge.

9) Quality Audit

All bundles need to be audited for quality before issuing to the sewing lines. Quality audit
on the bundled garments is done by the cutting-room auditor who checks the bundles for
bundle ticket descriptions, correct sequence of ply numbers, presence of all parts etc. as
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 9 KSA-Technopak
mentioned in the format. The second audit checks for the pieces w.r.t. the shade
matching, notch positioning, etc. These audits are conducted following the AQL chart
specifications & a format called Cutting Section Bundle Audit is filled.

10) Issue to the Sewing Line

The cut bundles are issued to the sewing line on request from sewing line supervisor.
Detail for issued pieces is maintained in the Cutting Issue Register. The cutting issue
register records the size wise issue to each line for a particular order. Along with the
bundles the cutting department also gives to the sewing line a format called Production
Issue Slip containing details of the bundles issued like bundle no, size, no of pieces etc.









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Gen-Prom, UNDP 10 KSA-Technopak
C. Cutting Activity Chart:


















Check the bundles for conformity Checkers/QC Random Audit
To meet the cutting plan. Cutting In charge Issue Pilot Run
To meet the cutting plan Cutting In-charge Cutting
Preparation for cutting Spreaders Spreading
Prepare the cuts for issuance Bundling Helper Bundling/ Ticketing
Achieve optimum utilisation of cutting
resources.
Cutting Executive Lay Planning

Availability of marker according to the
usable width of the fabric.
Cutting Executive Request Marker


To meet the cutting plan. Cutting In charge Issue Bulk cut
Availability of fabric as per the cutting
plan
Cutting Executive/Cutting
In Charge
Request Fabric
Output Resources Activity
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 11 KSA-Technopak
MATERIAL MOVEMENT

Fabric store and cutting room involves lot of material movement between different
operations. The material i.e. fabric is in the form of heavy rolls therefore specially
designed material movement equipments are required for saving time and manpower.
Following is the list of certain material movement that take place in Fabric store &
Cutting room with suggested mode of movement.

Item Description From To Material
Movement
Equipment
Fabric Fabric Unloading Vehicle Quarantine Area Fabric Trolley
Fabric Fabric Movement Quarantine
Area
Inspection
Machine
Fabric Trolley
Fabric Fabric Movement
(Pass/Rejected)
Inspection
Machine
Racks Fabric Trolley
Fabric Fabric Movement Racks Spreading Table Fabric Trolley
Cutting Waste Packed in sacks Cutting table Waste storage
room
Waste sack
Trolley
Cut Parts Cut parts movement CNC table Fusing Machine Bakers Trolley
Cut Parts Cut parts movement CNC table Numbering Table Bakers Trolley
Cut Parts Cut parts movement Numbering
Table
Bundling Table Bakers Trolley
Bundles Cut parts movement Bundling
Table
Audit Table Bakers Trolley
Audited
Bundles
Cut parts movement Audit Table Sewing Lines Bakers Trolley


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Gen-Prom, UNDP 12 KSA-Technopak
MATERIAL STORAGE

Proper housekeeping is an important compliance feature and improves the overall
working environment of the company as well. Work in progress (WIP) generated at
different stages of operations should be identified along with the quantity of the material
to be stored. The storage medium should be selected as per the nature of the material,
process and also the subsequent operations to have ease of working and to reduce the
wastages that occur due to improper storage.


Material Description Storage Type
Fabric Fabric rolls Heavy duty multi level metal racks
Cut Parts Bundled parts for audit Multi level bakers trolley
Cut Parts Bundled parts for issuing to
sewing
Multi level bakers trolley
End Bits Balance fabric from rolls Multi level metal racks
Pattern Patterns for an style Pattern trolley


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Gen-Prom, UNDP 13 KSA-Technopak
Fabric Store-

Space Requirement for Fabric Stores

The fabric store area should be calculated based on the assumption that how many
days of fabric inventory company wants to keep and the kind of storage arrangements
available for the fabric store. Lets understand this with the help of an example:

Fabric WIP in days = 7
Total fabric weight = 50,000 kg
Average fabric roll weight = 25 kg
No. of rolls for 7 days inventory = 50,000 / 25 = 2,000 rolls
No. of rolls that comes in one rack = 75
No. of racks required = 2,000 / 75 = 27 racks
Area is required for one rack = 42 sq ft
Area required for 27 racks = 42 X 27 = 1,134 sq ft

Now, other areas like aisle space, cabin area, space for inspection machines etc. should
be added into this to get the final area of the fabric store.

As a thumb rule the calculated area should be multiplied by 2.5 to get the total fabric
store area.

Total fabric store area = 1,134 X 2.5 = 2,835 sq ft

The layout of the fabric store should be made after the calculating the number of racks
or any other kind of proposed storage required. While designing the layout pf the fabric
store enough aisle space between two racks so as to facilitate easy movement of
material movement equipment and manpower.
Space should be allocated for quarantine area for keeping the fabric immediately after
receiving.





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Gen-Prom, UNDP 14 KSA-Technopak
Cutting Room-

Space Requirement for Cutting Room:

The cutting room should have enough space to house all necessary equipments and
manpower, to add to it the cutting room should have sufficient space for storing fabric
rolls of running lays and cut bundles and WIP of at least one day of feeding for the
sewing section.

As a thumb rule, the cutting room area should be equivalent to 40% of the sewing
section area. For e.g. If sewing section area is 10,000 sq ft, then

Cutting room area = 10,000 X 40% = 4,000 sq ft

It should be noted that this area is exclusive of the fabric storage area. The layout of the
cutting room should be made so as to have forward flow of work and to avoid backward
movement of the material between different operations. There should be provision for
parking the trolleys and storage racks for storing the end bits and WIP.


















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Gen-Prom, UNDP 15 KSA-Technopak
ANNEXURE
Piece Quality Control Inspection Report
Fabric Supplier Total rolls received Reject Shipment
Date of Inspection Total yards Insp Accept Shipment
Style no/ Priority No. Total penalty points Inspected by
Require GSM Points per 100 square meter
Roll Colour Width GSM Shade Penalty points Total Point Rejection Comments
Number Ordered Actual On roll Actual Ordered actual diff Hole Soil Fabric points per 100
Minimum Maximum yards defect yards
Points per 100 sq meters : Total Points XGSM X 100
Weight
Length
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 16 KSA-Technopak
Fabric Checking Sticker
Fabric Fabric
Color Color
Content Content
Date of checking Date of checking
GSM GSM
Than No. Than No.
Weight Weight
Fabric Fabric
Color Color
Content Content
Date of checking Date of checking
GSM GSM
Weight Weight
Than No. Than No.
Fabric Fabric
Color Color
Content Content
Date of checking Date of checking
GSM GSM
Weight Weight
Than No. Than No.
Fabric Fabric
Color Color
Content Content
Date of checking Date of checking
GSM GSM
Weight Weight
Than No. Than No.
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Gen-Prom, UNDP 17 KSA-Technopak
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