Workshop Student Desk - Παιδικό γραφείο

When my daughter wanted
a place where she could do home-

work, store supplies and display her
many art projects, I set to work creat-
ing this desk, which is large enough
to meet all of those criteria yet small
enough to t in any bedroom. Its clas-
sic design will serve her purposes for
many years in both form and function.
Dont let the long list of parts (see
p. 13) intimidate you: Simple join-
ery and straightforward construction
make this a project that even a begin-
ning woodworker can build. Because
I intended to paint the desk white, I
used birch plywood and 3/4-in.-thick
solid poplar. However, you can sub-
stitute any furniture-grade wood and
apply any nish you like.
Top cabinet and desktop
Dadoes and rabbets serve to align and
join the plywood panels that make the
top- and bottom-cabinet assemblies.
Refer to the illustration on p. 12 to lay
out the locations of the dadoes and rab-
bets on the top-cabinet panels. Cut the
dadoes and rabbets with a router and
a straight bit. The width of the dadoes
and rabbets must equal the thickness of
the plywood.
Drill the shelf-pin holes in the top-
cabinet sides (X and Y) before assem-
bling the panels; a drill wont t between
those parts after theyre joined together.
Assemble the top-cabinet panels
with glue. Square up the assembly and
attach the top-cabinet back (AA) with
glue and 3/4-in.-long narrow-crown
staples.
Make the edging pieces for the
desktop and top cabinet (U, V, BB
and CC) and the top-cabinet trim
pieces (DD through GG). Attach
the edging and trim with glue and
1-1/2-in. brad nails (photo 1, p. 14).
WORKSHOP
Students Desk
Build a classic piece that will please
any young scholar or artist
BY VERN GRASSEL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAURIE GRASSEL
Corkboard and frame
The corkboard is framed with molding
pieces (HH and II) that are made from
3/4 x 2-1/2-in. poplar. Rout a 1/8-in.-
radius edge bead along the top out-
side edge and then cut a 3/4-in.-wide
x 1/4-in.-deep rabbet in the bottom
inside edge. Miter-cut the frame pieces
to length.
The frame is captured within the
top cabinet and desktop, so the miters
should be strong enough with only glue
holding them together and no added
DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT GUIDES SUPPORTED BY:
THE WORLDS HIGHEST PERFORMANCE ROTARY TOOLS
1
ILLUSTRATION BY GABRIEL GRAPHICS

Miter
corners
Miter
corners
1/2" roundovers
1/4"
bead
1/4"
bead
Cuts
Floating tenons
(see text)
Tenon

1/2"
dia.
3/8"
setback
1/4" deep
x 3/4" wide
rabbet
1/8" rad.
(typical on
edging)
Front/back Sides
Bottom 1/4" 1/4"
DD
EE
BB
3-1/4"
Drawer
slide
Drawer pull
(centered)
7/8"
Waste
Desktop
washer

1-5/8" fhws
1-1/4" fhws
1" pan-head
wood screws
DD, FF
EE, GG
JJ
JJ
KK
KK
DETAIL 1
1
DETAIL 2
DETAIL 3
DETAIL 4 DETAIL 5 DETAIL 6
2
X
V
V
D
E
C
3
C
U
Y
Y
X
Z
Z
Y
HH, II
HH
II
AA FF GG
F
J
I
H
K
M
L
NN
OO
RR
MM
LL
S A
A
A
4
S
B
QQ
QQ
PP
PP
SS
6
6
5
S
BB
CC
CC
5
T
W
G
C
STUDENT
DESK
2
SHOPPING LIST
3/4-in. x 4 x 8-ft. birch plywood (2)
1/4-in. x 4 x 8-ft. birch plywood (1)
1/2-in. x 4 x 4-ft. Baltic birch plywood (1)
1x6 x 8-ft. (3/4 x 5-1/4-in.) poplar boards (3)
1x10 x 8-ft. (3/4 x 9-1/4-in.) poplar board (1)
1/2-in.-thick x 4 x 8-ft. corkboard
1-1/2-in. narrow-crown staples
3/4-in. narrow-crown staples
1-1/2-in. brads
1-5/8-in. at-head wood screws (fhws)
1-1/4-in. at-head wood screws
Figure-eight desktop washers
(Rockler No. 21650)
3/4-in. washer-head screws
22-in. Blum drawer slides (3;
Rockler No. 34876)
No. 8 x 1-in. pan-head wood screws (12)
No. 8 nish washers (12)
Wood glue
Polyurethane nish
Primer and paint
MATERIALS AND CUTTING LIST
KEY NO. DESCRIPTION SIZE
A 4 Legs, poplar 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 30 in.
B 2 Leg side panels, birch plywood 3/4 x 17-1/4 x 21 in.
C 2 Leg-panel trim pieces, poplar 3/8 x 3/4 x 21 in.
D 1 Bottom-cabinet top, birch plywood 3/4 x 22 x 41-1/2 in.
E 1 Bottom-cabinet right side, birch plywood 3/4 x 22 x 16-1/2 in.
F 1 Bottom-cabinet middle side, birch plywood 3/4 x 22 x 16-1/2 in.
G 1 Bottom-cabinet left side, birch plywood 3/4 x 22 x 5 in.
H 1 Bottom-cabinet left bottom, birch plywood 3/4 x 22 x 27-1/4 in.
I 1 Bottom-cabinet right bottom, birch plywood 3/4 x 22 x 13 in.
J 1 Bottom-cabinet drawer divider, birch plywood 3/4 x 3 x 13 in.
K 1 Bottom-cabinet back, birch plywood 1/4 x 17 x 41-1/2 in.
L 1 Bottom-cabinet back rail, poplar 3/4 x 3 x 27-1/2 in.
M 1 Bottom-cabinet back cleat, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 8 in.
N 1 Bottom-cabinet front edging, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 41-1/2 in.
O 2 Bottom-cabinet front edging, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 16-1/4 in.
P 1 Bottom-cabinet front edging, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 27-1/2 in.
Q 2 Bottom-cabinet front edging, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 12-1/2 in.
R 1 Bottom-cabinet front edging, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 4-1/2 in.
S 6 Bottom-cabinet spacers, plywood 1/4 x 6-1/2 x 21-1/4 in.
T 1 Desktop, birch plywood 3/4 x 24-1/4 x 44-1/2 in.
U 1 Desktop edging, poplar 3/4 x 1 x 46 in.
V 2 Desktop edging, poplar 3/4 x 1 x 25 in.
W 1 Top-cabinet top, birch plywood 3/4 x 12 x 44-1/2 in.
X 2 Top-cabinet outer sides, birch plywood 3/4 x 11-1/4 x 29-1/4 in.
Y 2 Top-cabinet inner sides, birch plywood 3/4 x 11 x 29-1/4 in.
Z 4 Top-cabinet shelves, birch plywood 3/4 x 10-1/2 x 8-3/8 in.
AA 1 Top-cabinet back, birch plywood 1/4 x 30 x 44 in.
BB 4 Top-cabinet edging, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 28-3/4 in.
CC 4 Top-cabinet shelf edging, poplar 3/4 x 3/4 x 8-3/8 in.
DD 1 Top-cabinet top trim, poplar 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 47 in.
EE 1 Top-cabinet top trim, poplar 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 46 in.
FF 2 Top-cabinet top trim pieces, poplar 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 13-1/4 in.
GG 2 Top-cabinet top trim pieces, poplar 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 12-3/4 in.
HH 2 Corkboard frame top and bottom, poplar 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 24-1/2 in.
II 2 Corkboard frame sides, poplar 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 28-3/4 in.
JJ 1 Corkboard 1/2 x 21 x 25-1/4 in.
KK 4 Corkboard frame spacers, birch plywood 1/4 x 1-3/4 x 24-1/2 in.
LL 2 Drawer faces, poplar 3/4 x 8 x 13-1/4 in.
MM 1 Drawer face, poplar 3/4 x 5-1/4 x 27-1/2 in.
NN 2 Drawer sides, birch plywood 1/2 x 3-3/4 x 22 in.
OO 2 Drawer front and back, birch plywood 1/2 x 3-3/4 x 25-1/4 in.
PP 4 Drawer sides, birch plywood 1/2 x 6-3/4 x 22 in.
QQ 4 Drawer front and back, birch plywood 1/2 x 6-3/4 x 11 in.
RR 1 Drawer bottom, birch plywood 1/4 x 21-1/2 x 25-1/4 in.
SS 2 Drawer bottoms, birch plywood 1/4 x 21-1/2 x 11 in.
10" 10"
10" 10"
11"
14"
Routing notes:
7 1/4" deep x 3/4" wide
8 1/2" deep x 1/4" wide
Bore matching shelf-
pin holes in inside
faces of X and Y
8-1/2"
C
4-3/4"
L
3"
R
BOTTOM CABINET
EDGING DETAILS
X
(inside
face)
W (bottom face)
TOP CABINET ROUTING DETAILS
BOTTOM CABINET ROUTING DETAILS
D (bottom face)
H (top face)
F
(left face)
F
(right face)
T (top face)
P N
O
O
Q
7
7
7
7
7
7 7 7 7
7
7
7
7
7
7 7
8
8
8
Q
10" 10"
10" 10"
11"
14"
Routing notes:
7 1/4" deep x 3/4" wide
8 1/2" deep x 1/4" wide
pin holes in inside
faces of X and Y
8-1/2"
C
4-3/4"
L
3"
R
BOTTOM CABINET
EDGING DETAILS
X
(inside
face)
W (bottom face)
D (bottom face)
H (top face)
F
(left face)
F
(right face)
T (top face)
P N
O
O
Q
7
7
7
7
7
7 7 7 7
7
7
7
7
7
7 7
8
8
8
Q
10" 10"
10" 10"
11"
14"
Routing notes:
7 1/4" deep x 3/4" wide
8 1/2" deep x 1/4" wide
pin holes in inside
faces of X and Y
8-1/2"
C
4-3/4"
L
3"
R
BOTTOM CABINET
EDGING DETAILS
X
(inside
face)
W (bottom face)
D (bottom face)
H (top face)
F
(left face)
F
(right face)
T (top face)
P N
O
O
Q
7
7
7
7
7
7 7 7 7
7
7
7
7
7
7 7
8
8
8
Q
10" 10"
10" 10"
11"
14"
Routing notes:
7 1/4" deep x 3/4" wide
8 1/2" deep x 1/4" wide
pin holes in inside
faces of X and Y
8-1/2"
C
4-3/4"
L
3"
R
BOTTOM CABINET
EDGING DETAILS
X
(inside
face)
W (bottom face)
D (bottom face)
H (top face)
F
(left face)
F
(right face)
T (top face)
P N
O
O
Q
7
7
7
7
7
7 7 7 7
7
7
7
7
7
7 7
8
8
8
Q
3
Fasten the top-cabinet trim pieces
with glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails.
Attach the vertical pieces rst; then
add the horizontal pieces that wrap
around the top.
1
Cut the top shoulder of the feet with
a router and 1/2-in.-dia. core-box bit.
Clamp the legs together and cut across
all four legs at once.
reinforcement. I chose to create oating
tenons in each miter because it makes
the alignment and assembly easier. Do
not glue the corkboard to the frame.
Corkboard is sold in a variety of
thicknesses. The type that I purchased
is slightly thicker than 1/2 in., requiring
me to use spacers behind the frame
pieces. Glue the spacers to the back of
the frame.
Insert the corkboard and attach
the corkboard frame to the top-
cabinet back after the cabinets and
frame have been painted. Drive
3/4-in. washer-head screws through
the upper back panel to attach the
corkboard frame.
Legs
Glue and clamp together two 3/4-in.-
thick pieces of stock to make each leg
blank (the rough pieces that each leg
will be cut from). The nal width of each
leg is 1-1/2 in., but its easiest to make
the leg blanks slightly oversize and then
rip them to the nal width. This way the
edges dont have to be perfectly aligned
when you glue up the blank. However,
it is important to keep the pieces parallel
so that you have a single edge that can
ride against the table saw fence.
The legs feature a tapered foot. Use
a router to cut the top shoulder of the
feet (photo 2). Make a template (see
Detail 4 in the illustration) to lay out
the curved taper on each foot (photo
3). Use a band saw to cut the tapers;
then clean up the saw marks with
a sander. Finally, use a router and a
1/8-in.-radius roundover bit to ease all
four edges of the leg.
The leg panels are centered be-
tween the outside faces of the legs. I
used a Festool Domino machine to cut
mortises for oating tenons that join
the legs to the legs panels, but a router
would do the job. As an alternative,
you could attach the panels to the legs
using dowels or pocket screws. (If you
use pocket screws, you will have to ll
the holes that are exposed on the inside
of the left panel.) Apply glue to the joint
and clamp the front and back legs to the
side panels (photo 4).
The leg-panel trim pieces (C) feature
a bead prole on the outside edge.
2
Make a paper template to trace the foot
prole on all four legs. Cut along the
layout lines with a band saw or jigsaw.
3
Top-cabinet top
Legs
Template
4
PROJECT TIPS
www.dremel.com
Here are some links and videos from
DREMEL, that can help make all your
projects easier and more enjoyable.
From adding inlays to planing and
sanding, DREMEL is the one
multi-purpose tool you need.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/project-
sandcommunity/projects/Pages/detail.
aspx?pcpid=17
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/proj-
ectsandcommunity/VideosOfProjects/
Pages/Video.aspx?vid=72
Copy and paste these links into
your browser to get more ideas from
DREMEL to help personalize
and nish all your projects.
PROJECT:
INLAY
VIDEO:
EDGE SANDING
VIDEO:
PLANING
VIDEO:
SANDING FURNITURE
Attach the legs to the side
panels. I used a Festool
Domino machine (inset) to
cut mortises for oating
tenons. Apply glue to the
tenons and to the edge of
the panel. Clamp one front
and one back leg to each
side panel.
4
Make the trim pieces (photos 5 and 6)
and attach one to the bottom of each
leg panel.
Bottom cabinet
The bottom cabinet is assembled simi-
larly to the top cabinet. Refer to the
illustrations to lay out and cut the
3/4-in.-wide x 1/4-in.-deep dadoes and
rabbets in the bottom-cabinet panels
(D through J). Assemble the panels,
square the assembly and attach the
bottom-cabinet back (K) with 3/4-in.
narrow-crown staples. The side edges of
the back panel should be ush with the
side edges of the bottom cabinet. Make
and attach the front edging pieces (N
through R). Attach the back rail (L) and
back cleat (M) to the back panel with
glue, and drive 3/4-in. narrow-crown
staples through the back panel.
Next, attach the leg assemblies to
the bottom cabinet. Attach plywood
spacers (S) to the inside of the leg
To make the leg-panel trim pieces (C),
use a 1/8-in.-radius edge-beading bit
to rout the prole in both top outside
edges of a 1-1/4-in.-wide x 24-in.-long
piece of stock.
5
Cut the proled trim pieces off of the
wider stock with a table saw. Then cut
the trim pieces into 21-in. lengths and
attach them to the bottom edge of the
side panels.
6
Leg-panel
trim
5
Attach the leg assemblies to the bottom-cabinet sides with 1-5/8-in. wood screws
driven from inside the cabinet. Plywood spacers ll the gap between the side panel
and the cabinet side.
7
8
Temporarily assemble the cabinet sec-
tions and install the drawer slides to
establish the screw-hole positions. Then
remove the hardware and disassemble
the cabinet before applying nish.
assemblies to ll the gap between the
side panels and the side of the bottom
cabinet. I used two 1/4-in. plywood
spacers to ll the 3/8-in. gap because
the actual thickness of my plywood
was 3/16 in. You may have to impro-
vise and use another combination of
materials to ll this gap. Position the
spacers ush with the top and bottom
edges of the bottom cabinet. Align the
back of the leg assembly ush with the
back of the bottom cabinet. Attach the
leg assemblies to the bottom-cabinet
sides (photo 7).
Drawers
The drawer-box corners feature
rabbet-and-dado corner joints, and the
drawer bottom ts in a dado cut in the
front, back and sides. I cut these joints
using a table saw and dado blade set
(see Web Extras), but you can achieve
similar results using a router and a
1/4-in.-dia. straight bit.
Temporarily position the top cabinet
on the base, and mount the drawer
boxes and epoxy-coated rolling drawer
slides in the bottom cabinet (photo 8).
Then attach the drawer faces with 1-in.
wood screws and nish washers. Finally,
bore a pilot hole for the drawer pull in
the center of each drawer face. Remove
the drawer faces, slides and pulls before
applying nish.
Finishing
I nished the drawer boxes with clear
satin polyurethane and painted the cabi-
net assemblies and drawer faces with
one coat of primer and two coats of
satin interior paint.
After the nish has cured, secure
the front edge of the desktop by driv-
ing 1-1/4-in. screws through the top
of the drawer openings, and secure
the cabinet backs with gure-eight
SOURCES ONLINE
For online information, go to www.HandymanClub.
com
and click on WEB EXTRAS.

Rockler Woodworking and
Hardware (desk top fastener, No. 21650; 22-in.
drawer slides, No. 34876), 800-279-4441
For a complete description of how
to build these drawer boxes, go to
www.HandymanClub.com
and click on WEB EXTRAS.
washers (photo 9). Do not use any glue
when attaching the top and bottom so
that you will be able to take them apart
if you need to transport the desk.
u
Handyman Club life member Vern Grassel
is a professional woodworker and remod-
eler who lives and works in the Twin Cities.
Connect the top and bottom cabinet
backs with gure-eight washers.
These washers are intended to be used
as desktop fasteners, but they also
worked well in this application.
9
Figure-eight
washer
6

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When my daughter wanted

a place where she could do home-

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