BUILDING THE " LITTLE ZINGER I"

Designed by Heman Lee

Engine: Cox Black Window or Golden Bee
Wingspan 20"
Cord 5 1/2"
Fuselage Length 12"

Sydie from Kansis City, MO

soloed for the first time with this Zinger model.

LITTLE ZINGER II" for High Performance .049-.061

Robby hold his Zinger II model powered by a

Norvel BigMig .061

Engine: Norvel Bigmig Startup .049 or .061

Wingspan 30" with Tips, 28" with no tips.
Cord 6"
Fuselage Length 16 1/2"

You may use these plans freely for nonprofit

use only!

Bobby hold his Zinger II model powered by a Norvel BigMig .061

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Parts List

1/4" X 3 Balsa Sheet 1 3/32" X Balsa Sheet (Elevator and

1
Rudder)
1/4" X 36 Leading Edge Spar 2 4-40 X 1/2" screw and nut for Brodak
1
Engine Mount
1/16" X 3/4" X 18" (29" for II) 4 Screws 2-56 x 3/4
2
Trailing Edge
2 3/16" X 1/4" Wing Spars 4 Nuts 2-56
Balsa Sheet 1/16" or 3/32" X 3" X 1 3/32 Copper Tubing for Leadout
1
36" Rib and sheeting Guide and Crimps
1 Brodak 1/2A Motor Mount 1 1/2A Bellcrank and Horn set
1 Lead Weight 1/4 oz 1 1/2A Wheel Set
.055 or 1/16" Pushrod Wire and 1 .018 Leadout Wire
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Landing Gear

Tools Needed

1. Titebond Wood Glue or Epoxy.

2. Model airplane dope
3. Xacto Hobby Knife or Razor Knife.
4. Sand Paper - 150, 220, 400.
5. Ruler and 60/30 Triangle.
6. Pliers with wire cutter.
7. Electric or Cordless Drill.
8. Monocote or Ultracote

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How make a rib template
When tracing the rib template onto a sheet of balsa, do not worry about cutting out
the slot for the spar or leading holes

Building Instructions
Step 1. - Rib Template
Make rib template by printing is according to the proper dimension. Then cut it out
and trace it on to a piece of balsa. Cut out a sand. To make sure that both side are
equal, turn the paper template over and sand until both side are the same. Save the
balsa template as your master template. You can make the template a little smaller
to allow for the pen line.

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Step 2. Trace Ribs

Trace the ribs template on to a sheet of 1/16" or 3/32" balsa sheet. Try not to waste
any balsa wood by staggering the rib close together.

Step 3. - Cut the Ribs

Carefully cut out all rubs using a Xacto Knife. For Zinger I, cut 8 ribs of equal
size. For Zinger II cut 12 ribs. Cut 4 additional ribs and make them 1/16" smaller
in width. The 2 center ribs are glue together.

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 Step 4 Sand the Ribs
Stack all of the rib together and sand them so that all have the same uniform
shape.

Step 6 - Spar Notch and Tail Edge Notch

Cut away a notch for the spar, use a Zona or Xacto Razor Saw. To make if easier,
cut the notch together.

Step 7 - Drill the Lead Out Hole

Stack all of the ribs and drill a three 1/2" hole trough all of the ribs. One for the
front lead outs and two for the
You can use 1/2" diameter brass tubing. Sharpen one end and use it as a punch.

Step 8 Assembly the Wing

Draw the rib layout onto a piece of velom (drafting paper) or butcher paper. Tape
this to a flat surface or building board.

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Step 8 Wing Jig

Make a wing jig from 1/4" scraps. This will insure a level leading and trailing
edge.

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Lay the bottom spar first. Tack the ribs down on the spar with only 1 drop of
wood glue (Elmers or Titebond). DO NOT over glue it at this point, until you
are sure that every is straight.

2. Pin the 1/4" leading edge into place, but DO NOT GLUE IT.

Step 9- Bell-crank Assembly

Make the Bell-crank mount from 1/16" or 3/32" plywood or hardwood scrap.

Drill the hole for the bell-crank and install it according to the instructions
diagram.

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 Install lead-out assembly. Make lead-out wires from scrap .015 or .018 cable
or music wire.

I like to use a 2-56 bolt and blind nut to secure the bellcrank in place, rather that
using the stock sheet screw setup.

Step 10 - Sheeting

Sheet the center 3 rib sections of the wing with 1/16" balsa. Install pushrod before
sheeting and allow enough play for an exit hole on top of the wing.

The C.G. (Center of Gravity) should be about 15% behind the front L.E.
(leading edge). This come out to about 3/4" back.

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 Therefore the center of your leadout should be about 1 - 1/2" hehind the L.E.
Space the leadout wire about 1/2 apart.

Tip Weight: Glue 2 pennies to the aboard wing tip (assuming engine cylinder is
upright)
Zinger II: Glue 1 penny to the aboard wing tip.

Step 11. - Designing the Fuselage

For the most part, fuselage shape does not effect the flying characteristic of your
model. You can make the fuselage shape any design you desire at long as the
engine and tail moments remain the same.

Step 12. - Cutting out the Fuselage

Cut the fuselage from a stock of 1/4" X 3 X 36" balsa sheet. Make sure that
engine mount is perpendicular to the wings center line and that is stab cut out is
also parallel to this line.

Use a triangle to draw a reference line from the engine mount. Use the rib template
to cut out the wing hole.

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Step 12.1. - Zinger II Engine Mount

Put your engine between the 2 piece of 3/16" X 1/4" hardwood. Measure the
distance carefully between the block and transfer this to the fuselage.

Cut out the slot for the engine mount. Make sure that the width of the engine
mount is 1/4". Recheck by inserting the mount into the fuselage and see if the
engine fits before final gluing.

I recommend, Titebond Wood Glue or Polyurethane Glue for this process.

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Step 13. - The Rudder

The same is true with the rudder design. Start with a piece of 3/32"X3"X 2" scrap
sheet. Cut out any design you wish. Keep the wood grain vertical (up and down).

If you are make a wider rudder, a lot of design require that you make it in 2 pieces
instead of 1. Note the grain on the "Shark Fin".

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Step 14 - The Stabilizer & Elevator

Make the stabilizer and elevator from 3/32" balsa sheet.

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Step 15 - Elevator Hinge

The 2 methods for make hinges are cloth or dental-floss.

Step 16 - Installing the Wing and Stab/Elevator

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Step 17- Covering
Monocote or Ultracote film covering is the fastest way to get the wing covered.

You can use a special sealing iron or an old clothes iron.

Step 18- Painting

You can used any fuel proof paint although model airplane dope is the best. If you
can not get dope, use Rustoleum brand paint will give you enough fuel proofing.
Epoxy paint is very fuel proof but don't apply too heavy a coat. You should not use
more that 2 coat on this model. One good coat should do it. If you want a smoother
job on the fuselage and tail section, apply a few coat of clear dope and sand it
smooth with 400 grit before spraying the final color coat.

Step 19. - Control Horn & Pushrod

Install all hardware. Drill holes for the control horn first. Bolt on control horn
with 1 washer on the bottom.
Make a Z or J-bend and one end. Make an adjustment Z-bend in the middle.
Install the Control Horn and attach the pushrod to it.
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Step 20. - Install Brodak Engine Mount (Zinger I)
Install the Brodak 1/2A engine mount and do not over tighten the screws on the
mount

Step 21 - Flying

This Zinger I model can be flown on 30' to 35' dacron string lines. The Zinger II
with Norvel engine should be flown with at least 40' to 45' by .008 steal cable for
best performance. I recommend a Cox 5 X 3 propeller for Cox engine and a APC
5.5 X 2.5 propeller for the Norvel .049.

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