OCEN 671

Ocean Wave Mechanics

Fall 2008
Lectures:

MWF 9:10-10:00

Room: CE 203

Lecturer:

Dr. James M. Kaihatu

CE/TTI 802A/808D
Telephone: 862-3511 E-mail: jkaihatu@civil.tamu.edu
Office Hours: 2:00 4:00 pm MW, or by appointment.

Textbook:

Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, Dean and Dalrymple, 1984, Prentice
Hall (also World Scientific 1989).

Notes:

While we will follow the topic order of the text (and it is a classic text to have), we will
deviate slightly from it with notes, particularly with respect to the mathematical development
and the presentation of additional topics not covered in the book. Notes for each lecture are
available as a .pdf file from my web page:
http://ceprofs.civil.tamu.edu/jkaihatu/teaching/ocen671/index.html

Prerequisite:

OCEN462 or equivalent.

(Optional) Useful References For Additional Study of Course Material:

1. The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves, C.C. Mei, 1983, Wiley-Interscience.
2. The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean, O.M. Phillips, 1977, Second Edition, Cambridge University Press.
3. Wind Waves, B. Kinsman, Dover 1984.
3. Waves in the Ocean, LeBlond and Mysak, 1978, Elsevier.
4. Water Waves, J.J. Stoker, 1957, Interscience.
5. Coastal Engineering Manual, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, available online at
http://chl.erdc.usace.army.mil/chl.aspx?p=s&a=ARTICLES;104
(Part 2, Chapter 1 recommended)
This is also available with a Google search on Coastal Engineering Manual

Tentative Course Outline

Week
Aug. 25-29

Sept. 1-5

Sept. 8-12

Mtg.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

Topics
Introduction, Review of Relevant Mathematics (Zhang)
Review of Hydrodynamics: Control and Material
Volume, Convective Acceleration (Zhang)
Euler and Navier-Stokes Equations (Zhang)
Potential Function (Zhang)
Stream Function, Bernoulli Equation (Zhang)
Kinematic and Dynamic Boundary Conditions (Zhang)
Linearization of the Free Surface Boundary Condition
Solution of the Linear Boundary Value Problem:
Standing and Progressive Waves
Waves with Uniform Current Boundary Conditions

Text Assignment
Chapter 1
Chapter 2

Chapter 3

Ocean Wave Mechanics

OCEN671

Fall 2008
Page 2
Tentative Course Outline (continued)

Week
Sept. 15-19

Sept. 22-26

Sept. 29-Oct. 3

Oct.6-10

Oct. 13-17

Oct.20-24

Oct. 27-Oct. 31

Nov. 3-7

Nov 10-14

Nov. 17-21

Nov.24-28

Dec. 1-5

Mtg.
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44

Dec. 8

Topics

Text Assignment

Kinematics and Pressure Field of Progressive Wave

Kinematics and Pressure Field of Standing Wave
Wave Energy and Energy Propagation
Wave Refraction, Snell's Law
Wave Breaking in Shallow Water
Wave Diffraction, Mild-Slope Equation
Long Wave Theory: Mass and Momentum Equations
The Energy and Energy Flux in a Long Wave; Greens Law
One-Dimensional Tide; Reflection and Transmission
Seiching, Long Waves with Bottom Friction
Long Waves in Basins or Bays
Long Waves Forced by a Moving Pressure Disturbance:
Storm Surge
Wavemaker Theory: Piston-Type Wavemaker
Take Home Exam Distributed; Flap-Type Wavemaker
Take Home Exam Collected; Directional Wavemakers
Waveheight Distributions
Wave Statistics
Unidirectional Wave Spectrum
Time-Series Simulation
Parameterized Spectra
Directional Sea Measurements
Directional Spectrum
Nonlinear Properties of Linear Waves
Mass Transport
Momentum Flux
Radiation Stress
Set-down, Set-up
Nonlinear Waves: Perturbation Approach of Stokes
First and Second Order Stokes Waves
Stream Function Theory
Finite Amplitude Waves in Shallow Water
Solitary Waves
Thanksgiving No Class
Cnoidal waves
(Dec 3 Reading day; no class)
Take Home Final Distributed
Take Home Final Collected

Chapter 4

Chapter 5

Chapter 6

Chapter 7

Chapter 10

Chapter 11

Depending on the progress of the class or the nature of the material, adjustments to the individual topic areas
within each chapter may be enacted. If progress allows, other topics may be touched upon such as: waves
over real seabeds, nearshore nonlinear wave evolution, or nearshore circulation.

Ocean Wave Mechanics

OCEN671

Fall 2008
Page 3

Homework: Homework will be assigned at the end of each chapter (except Chapter 1), and must be handed
in by the due date before the end of the class. Late homework will be penalized 10% each day it is late unless
you have an excuse recognized by the University (http://student-rules.tamu.edu/rule7.htm) and then, only
with advance notice (with the exception of emergencies). Collaboration between students is acceptable but
blind copying is prohibited.
Exams: One take-home mid-term exam and a take-home final exam will be given. The grading of the exams
will be based on both the approach and the final answer.
Course Grade: The final grade in the course is based on our best assessment of your understanding of the
material and participation during the semester. The mid-term exam carries a weight of 30%, the final exam
40% and homework 30%. Class participation is also a factor, in that it is a demonstration of knowledge and
understanding of the course material.
Attendance: Please observe the universitys rules on student attendance at: http://studentrules.tamu.edu/rule7.htm. Advance notice of upcoming absences is expected, except in the case of an
emergency for which advance notice is impossible. Notice can be in the form of an email.
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