Cooking Meats

Learning the proper techniques for cooking meats is one of the most critical aspects of
becoming a gourmet chef. There is more to it than just buying a chunk of beef, pork,
lamb or veal from your butcher and throwing it in the oven until it looks done.
Below is almost everything you need to know about cooking meats.

Muscle Composition
Muscle tissue gives meat its characteristic appearance; the amount of connective tissue
determines the meat's tenderness. Muscle tissue is approximately 72 percent water, 20
percent protein, 7 percent fat and 1 percent minerals. A single muscle is composed of
many bundles of muscle cells or fibers held together by connective tissue. The thickness of
the cells, the size of the cell bundles and the connective tissues holding them together form
the grain of the meat and determine the meat's texture.
When the fiber bundles are small, the meat has a fine grain and texture. Grain also refers
to the direction in which the muscle fibers travel. When an animal fattens, some of the
water and proteins in the lean muscle tissue are replaced with fat, which appears as
marbling. Marbling adds tenderness and flavor to meat, and is a principal factor in
determining meat quality.
Connective tissue forms the walls of the long muscle cells and binds them into bundles. It
surrounds the muscle as a membrane and also appears as the tendons and ligaments that
attach the muscles to the bone.
Most connective tissue consists of either collagen or elastin. Collagen breaks down
into gelatin and water when cooked using moist heat. Elastin, on the other hand, will not
break down under normal cooking conditions. Because elastin remains stringy and tough,
tendons and ligaments should be trimmed away before meat is cooked.
Connective tissue develops primarily in the frequently used muscles. Therefore, when
cooking meats, cuts of meat from the shoulder (also known as the chuck), which the animal
uses constantly, tend to be tougher than those from the back (also known as the loin),
which are used less frequently.
As an animal ages, the collagen present within the muscles becomes more resistant to
breaking down through moist-heat cooking. Therefore, the meat of an older animal tends
to be tougher than that of a younger one. Generally, when cooking meats the tougher
the meat, the more flavorful it is, however.

Grading
USDA grading provides a voluntary, uniform system by which producers, distributors and
consumers can measure differences in the quality of meats and make price-quality
comparisons.
Beef - USDA Prime, Choice, Select, Standard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter and
Canner

 Veal - USDA Prime, Choice, Good, Standard, Utility

Lamb - USDA Prime, Choice, Good, Utility
Pork - USDA No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, Utility
USDA prime meats are produced in limited quantities for use in the finest restaurants,
hotels and gourmet markets. They are well marbled and have thick coverings of firm fat.
USDA choice meats are the most commonly used grade in quality food service operations
and retail markets. Choice meat is well marbled (but with less fat than Prime) and will
produce a tender and juicy product.
Although lacking the flavor and tenderness of the higher grades, beef graded USDA select
or USDA standard, and lamb and veal graded USDA good, are also used in food service
operations and retail outlets.
The lower grades of beef, lamb and veal are usually used for processed, ground or
manufactured items such as meat patties or canned meat products.
Yield grades measure the amount of usable meat (as opposed to fat and bones) on a
carcass and provide a uniform method of identifying cuttability differences among
carcasses. Yield grades apply only to beef and lamb and appear in a shield similar to that
used for the quality grade stamp. The shields are numbered from 1 to 5, with number 1
representing the greatest yield and number 5 the smallest.

Aging Meats
When animals are slaughtered, their muscles are soft and flabby. Within 6 to 24 hours,
rigor mortis sets in, causing the muscles to contract and stiffen. Rigor mortis dissipates
within 48 to 72 hours under refrigerated conditions. All meats should be allowed to rest,
or age, long enough for rigor mortis to dissipate completely. Meats that have not been
aged long enough for rigor mortis to dissipate or that have been frozen during this period
are known as "green meats." They will be very tough and flavorless when cooked.
Today, most proportioned or precut meats are packaged and shipped in vacuum-sealed
plastic packages. Wet aging is the process of storing vacuum-packaged meats under
refrigeration for up to six weeks. This allows natural enzymes and microorganisms time
to break down connective tissue, which tenderizes and flavors the meat. As this chemical
process takes place, the meat develops an unpleasant odor that is released when the
package is opened; the odor dissipates in a few minutes.
Dry aging is the process of storing fresh meats in an environment of controlled
temperature, humidity and air flow for up to six weeks. This allows enzymes and
microorganisms to break down connective tissues. Dry aging is actually the beginning of
the natural decomposition process. Dry-aged meats can lose from 5 to 20 percent of their
weight through moisture evaporation. They can also develop mold, which adds flavor but
must be trimmed off later.
Moisture loss combined with additional trimming can substantially increase the cost of dryaged meats. Dry-aged meats are generally available only through smaller distributors and

specialty butchers.

Storing Meats
Meat products are highly perishable and potentially hazardous foods, so temperature
control is the most important thing to remember when storing meats. Fresh meats
should be stored at temperatures between 30 degrees F and 35 degrees F. Vacuumpacked meats should be left in their packaging until they are needed.
Under proper refrigeration, vacuum-packed meats with unbroken seals have a shelf
life of three to four weeks. If the seal is broken, shelf life is reduced to only a few days.
Do not wrap meats tightly in plastic wrap, as this creates a good breeding ground for
bacteria and will significantly shorten a meat's shelf life. Store meats on trays and away
from other foods to prevent cross-contamination.
When freezing meats, the faster the better. Slow freezing produces large ice crystals
that tend to rupture the muscle tissues, allowing water and nutrients to drip out when the
meat is thawed. Most commercially packaged meats are frozen by blast freezing, which
quickly cools by blasting 40 degree F air across the meat.
The ideal temperature for maintaining frozen meat is -50 degrees F. Frozen meat should
not be maintained at any temperature warmer than 0 degrees F. Moisture and vaporproof
packaging will help prevent freezer burn. The length of frozen storage life varies with the
species and type of meat. As a general rule, properly handled meats can be frozen for
six months.
Frozen meats should be thawed at refrigerator temperatures, not at room temperature
or in warm water.

Various Cooking Methods

Broiling and Grilling
The broiling or grilling process adds flavor; additional flavors are derived from seasonings.
The broiler or grill should brown the meat, keeping the interior juicy. The grill should leave
appetizing crosshatch marks on the meat's surface. To serve a good-quality broiled or
grilled product, you must start with good-quality meat.
Only the most tender cuts should be broiled or grilled, because direct heat does not
tenderize. Fat adds flavor as the meat cooks, so the meat should be well marbled. Red
meats should be cooked at sufficiently high temperatures to caramelize their surface,
making them more attractive and flavorful.
Roasting
Properly roasted meats should be tender, juicy and evenly cooked to the appropriate
degree of doneness. They should have a pleasant appearance when whole as well as
when sliced and plated. Because roasting is a dry-heat cooking method and will not
tenderize the finished product, meats that are to be roasted should be tender and well
marbled. They are usually cut from the rib, loin or leg sections.

Seasonings are especially important with smaller roasts and roasts with little or no fat
covering. A large roast with heavy fat covering (steamship round or prime rib) does not
benefit from being seasoned on the surface because the seasonings will not penetrate the
fat layer, which is trimmed away before serving.
A roast is sometimes cooked on a bed of mirepoix, or mirepoix is added to the roasting pan
as the roast cooks. The mirepoix raises the roast off the bottom of the roasting pan,
preventing the bottom from overcooking. This mirepoix, however, does not add any flavor
to the roast. Rather, it combines with the drippings to add flavor to the jus, sauce or gravy
that is made with them.
Sauteing
Sauteing is a dry-heat cooking method in which heat is conducted by a small amount of fat.
Sauteed meats should be tender (a reflection of the quality of the raw product) and of good
color (determined by proper cooking temperatures) and have a good overall flavor. Any
accompanying sauce should be well seasoned and complement the meat without
overpowering it.
Use only tender meats of the highest quality in order to produce good results when
sauting. The cuts should be uniform in size and shape in order to promote even cooking.
The sauces that almost always accompany sauted meats provide much of the seasoning.
The meat, however, can be marinated or simply seasoned with salt and pepper. If
marinated, the meat must be patted dry before cooking to ensure proper browning. Some
meats are dusted with flour before cooking to seal in juices and promote even browning.
Pan-Frying
Pan-frying uses more fat than sauting to conduct heat. Pan-fried meats should be tender
and of good color and have a good overall flavor. Meats to be pan-fried are usually
breaded. In addition to providing flavor, breading seals the meat. The breading should be
free from breaks, thus preventing the fat from coming into direct contact with the meat or
collecting in a pocket formed between the meat and the breading.
Pan-fried items should be golden in color, and the breading should not be soggy. As
with other dry-heat cooking methods, tender meats of high quality should be used because
the meat will not be tenderized by the cooking process. Meats that are pan-fried are often
cut into cutlets or scallops.
Pan-fried meats are usually seasoned lightly with salt and pepper either by applying them
directly to the meat or by adding them to the flour and bread crumbs used in the breading
procedure.
Simmering
Simmering is usually associated with specific tougher cuts of meat that need to be
tenderized through long, slow, moist cooking. Quality simmered meats have good flavor
and texture.
The flavor is determined by the cooking liquid, the texture is a result of proper cooking
temperatures and time. Meats such as fresh or corned beef brisket, and fresh or cured

hams are often simmered. Beef briskets, pork butts and hams are often simmered whole.
Simmering cured meats helps leach out some of the excess salt, making the finished dish
more palatable.
Moist-heat cooking methods generally use lower temperatures than dry-heat cooking
methods. Meats are normally simmered at temperatures between 180 degrees F and 200
degrees F.
Braising
Braised meats are first browned and then cooked in a liquid that serves as a sauce for the
meat. A well-prepared braised dish has the rich flavor of the meat in the sauce and the
moisture and flavor of the sauce in the meat. It should be almost fork tender but not falling
apart. The meat should have an attractive color from the initial browning and final glazing.
Braising can be used for tender cuts or tougher cuts.
Any meat to be braised should be well marbled with an ample fat content in order to
produce a moist finished product. Braised meats are always browned before simmering. As
a general rule, smaller cuts are floured before browning; larger cuts are not. Flouring
seals the meat, promotes even browning and adds body to the sauce that accompanies the
meat.
The meat and the braising liquid are brought to a boil over direct heat. The temperature is
then reduced below boiling, and the pot is covered. Cooking can be finished in the oven or
on the stove top.
Near the end of the cooking process, the lid may be removed from oven-braised
meats. Finishing braised meats without a cover serves two purposes. First, the meat can
be glazed by basting it often. Second, removing the lid allows the cooking liquid to reduce,
thickening it and concentrating its flavors for use as a sauce.
Stewing
Stewing, like braising, is a combination cooking method. In many ways, the procedures for
stewing are identical to those for braising, although stewing is usually associated with
smaller or bite-sized pieces of meat. Stews, like braised meats, get much of their flavor
from their cooking liquid.
A stew's seasoning and overall flavor is a direct result of the quality of the cooking liquid
and the vegetables, herbs, spices and other ingredients added during cooking.
Stewed meats are done when they are fork tender. Test them by removing a piece of
meat to a plate and cutting it with a fork. Stews are often complete meals in themselves,
containing meat, vegetables and potatoes in one dish.
Because meat may account for the largest portion of your food-cost dollar, it should be
purchased carefully, stored properly and fabricated appropriately. When cooking meats,
the various cuts and flavors of meat (beef, veal, lamb and pork) can be successfully
broiled, grilled, roasted, sauted, pan-fried, simmered, braised or stewed, provided you
follow a few simple procedures and learn which cuts respond best to the various cooking
methods.

Beef Cooking Times

The correct beef cooking times will become second nature to you as you advance on your
path toward becoming a gourmet cook. I am quite comfortable relying on the "touch"
approach, and you will be too. But I recommend that you stick with a meat
thermometer at first.
Chefs generally gauge beef cooking times by gently punching the meat with their fingers to
check the temperature and know when it's ready to eat. Yes, it takes a little experience.
Start touching every piece of meat you cook and grill to start getting the hang of it. I
touch the meat and also use either an instant-read thermometer or probe thermometer just
to double check.

Touch Technique Used by Chefs

1. Touch Your Cheek - That will be "rare". The internal temperature of the steak will be
between 110 120 F. and it will have a cool red center.
2. Touch Your Chin This is "medium rare". The internal temperature of the steak will be
between 120 130F. and it will have a warm red center.
3. Touch the End of Your Nose This is the texture of a "medium" steak. The internal
temperature of the steak will be between 140 145F. and it will have a hot pink center.
4. Touch the Area Just Above the Bridge of Your Nose on Your Forehead This is
equivalent to a "medium well" piece of meat. The internal temperature of the steak is
between 155 160 F. and it has just a thin line of hot pinkness still left in the center.
5. Touch the Bottom of Your Shoe This is well done. The internal temperature is 180
degrees. There is virtually no pink. However, even though a piece of meat is well done
there should be some juices left.

BBQ Griller Technique

130 F = Very Rare - Red Cool Center - Check to see if it's still kicking
140 F = Rare - Red Center - Still not done enough for most
145-150 F = Medium Rare - Red/Pink Center - Now you're talkin'
155-160 F = Medium Well - Pink Center - Temperature of choice for most
165 F = Well Done - Light Grey Center - Might be a little taste left
170-180 F = CHARRED BEYOND RECOGNITION!!!
As you can see, beef cooking times and temperatures vary a little. It will take a few times
cooking meat to get it exactly to the temperature of your choice.

Tips
To get an accurate reading from your instant-read thermometer, always push it into the
thickest part of the meat and wait for 15-20 seconds, near the end of the suggested
beef cooking time.
And remember, meat keeps cooking after you take it off the grill or out of the oven, so
remove when it's 5 degrees below desired temperature. Never cut into meat with a knife to
check its doneness, it releases all the juices all over the plate. Let stand 15 minutes
before carving and serving.

Make Dry Aged Beef at Home

Did you know you can make dry aged beef at home? And why would you want to anyway?
Well, if you've ever gone to a serious steakhouse and tasted their steaks you know the
depth of flavor is remarkable. It is because they use dry aged beef. Dry aged beef is
generally hard to come by, and very expensive.
Now, all fresh beef is aged for at least a few days and up to several weeks to allow
enzymes naturally present in the meat to break down the muscle tissue, resulting in
improved texture and flavor. These days, most beef is aged in plastic shrink-wrap -- a
process known as wet-aging.
Dry aged beef, on the other hand, is exposed to air, so dehydration can further concentrate
the meat's flavor. Because the meat loses weight from dehydration, and it also must be
trimmed of its completely dried exterior, it is more expensive than wet-aged meat, and
harder to find.
The first step to making dry aged beef at home is actually a food safety note. Home
refrigerators aren't as consistent or as cold as commercial meat lockers.
Before making dry aged beef at home, get a refrigerator thermometer and make sure your
fridge is set to and can maintain a temperature below 40 F. Cook or freeze the meat
within seven days of beginning the dry-aging process. Next, buy a prime or choice
boneless beef rib or loin roast from the best meat source in your area (not your local
grocery store). Unwrap the beef, rinse it well, and pat it dry with paper towels. Do not trim.
Wrap the roast loosely in a triple layer of cheesecloth and set it on a rack over a rimmed
baking sheet or other tray.
Refrigerate for three to seven days; the longer the beef ages, the tastier it gets. After the
first day, carefully unwrap and then rewrap with the same cheesecloth to keep the cloth
fibers from sticking to the meat.
When you are ready to roast, unwrap the meat and, with a sharp knife, shave off and
discard the hard, dried outer layer of the meat. Shave away any dried areas of fat, too,
but leave behind as much of the good fat as possible. Roast whole, or cut into steaks.

Cooking Roast Beef

When cooking roast beef, why serve a plain roast, when a crusted one is just as easy and
much tastier?
When I am entertaining, a crusted roast is one my favorite things to serve. They are
always impressive yet they don't ask all that much from the cook. Once you have patted
on the crust, and put the roast into the oven, it's pretty much hands-off from there. Cooking
roast beef is not exactly rocket science.

Buying a Roast
Buying beef for cooking roast beef can be tricky because one cut of beef can go by several
different names. Depending on where you live, or which butcher you go to, beef can be
called by several names. A boneless top sirloin roast might also be called a top sirloin butt
or a rump roast. If you decide to buy a boneless top sirloin roast, make sure the butcher
removes the cap so that the roast is a better shape for carving.

Tips for a Successful Crust

Sear Before You Crust Searing the roast before you apply the crust, creates flavorful
browning on the surface of the meat.
Sticky Coating A crust needs something to stick to: yogurt, mayonnaise, mustard etc.
Apply the Crust But not too thick. Apply the crust about inch thick. Patting lightly to
apply.
Not on the Bottom You don't need to apply crust to the bottom of the roast, only the top
and sides.
Crust Will Fall Off Don't worry if some of the crust falls off, try to make sure everyone
gets some of the crust on their plate.

Cooking a Roast
When you start your process for cooking roast beef, let the roast sit at room temperature
for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat your oven to 400 degrees and position a rack in the
middle of the oven. Put the roasting rack in your roasting pan.
Season the roast (5-pound strip loin roast or 5-to 6-pound boneless top sirloin roast patted
dry) liberally with salt (kosher) and pepper on all sides. Heat the oil (2 Tblsp) in a large
saut pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, brown the meat well on all sides,
including the ends, about 4 minutes per side. Make sure you have turned on your exhaust
fan. This approach to cooking roast beef gets smoky! Transfer the meat to the roasting
pan. Set aside to cool while you prepare the crust.
1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs (from baguette)
4 cloves garlic, minced

2 medium shallots, minced

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh marjoram
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh thyme
3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
1/3 cup Dijon mustard
In a medium bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, garlic, shallots, thyme, marjoram, tsp. salt,
and teaspoon pepper. Pour the melted butter into the breadcrumb mixture; toss to
combine. Using a rubber spatula, smear the top and sides of the beef with the mustard.
With your hands, lightly press the breadcrumb mixture into the mustard.
Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest part of the meat and set to 125 degrees.
Keep the crust from over-browning. Start checking on the roast after 30 minutes of cooking,
and when the crust is golden brown, tent it with aluminum foil.
Remove the roast from the oven and let the meat rest for 10 to 20 minutes before
carving.

A Wonderful Sauce
Creamy Horseradish-Mustard Sauce
1 cup crme fraiche
3 Tbsp. drained jarred horseradish
3 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
tsp. kosher salt
Pinch cayenne
Whisk all the ingredients in a small bowl and let the sauce sit for 20 minutes for the flavors
to meld before serving.

Best Secret for Beef Tenderloin Cooking

I probably shouldn't do this, but I am going to share a secret method of beef tenderloin
cooking with you that will wow everyone you feed it to. Consider this a "Thank You" gift
from me for visiting this, my new website, my labor of love.
I took a wonderful seminar from a chef named Jeff Blank. He owns Hudson On The Bend
Restaurant in Austin, Texas. He described a technique called "Hang Over Cooking". The
process he explained got my attention, so I went home and tried it the next day. WOW! I
want to share it with you. This technique will make your tenderloin the talk of the
party!

You only need two extra pieces of equipment, and you probably already have them: a small
ice chest (the type that holds six to twelve canned drinks) and a meat probe thermometer.
First you need to trim your loin.
1. Locate the chain, the long piece of muscle that runs the length of the tenderloin. (The
fatter, shorter, smooth muscle on the other side is part of the loin-leave that on.) Using your
fingers, gently separate the chain from the tenderloin as much as possible.
2. With a boning knife, start at the narrow end of the chain and cut along the seam, making
several long, shallow cuts rather than one or two deep ones. This way, you have more
control over the path your knife takes and less chance of cutting too far in. You don't have
to trim every bit of the chain from the wider end; it's fine to leave a narrow strip attached to
the loin.
3. Starting about 1 inch from one end of the silverskin, push the tip of your knife under a
strip of silverskin about 1/2 inch wide. Using your free hand to hold the silverskin taut,
angle the knife slightly up toward the silverskin as you slide the knife down the tenderloin,
freeing the silverskin.
4. Turn the knife around and cut off the end of the silverskin that's still attached. Repeat
until all the silverskin is gone. Bonus: You can save the chain for cooking another night
(think stir-fry). It's perfectly tasty beef, just not as tender as the rest of the tenderloin.
Next, you need to cook your loin. You can slow grill it, roast it in the oven, smoke it in the
stovetop smoker, or smoke it in your favorite smoker, whichever is your preferred beef
tenderloin cooking method. Always season the outside of your meat very liberally with your
favorite salt-based rub.
Do not cook your meat past rare, or 125 degrees internally. This may be difficult,
because we are so programmed to really cook meat. But resist the urge!
While your meat is smoking or cooking, warm two quarts of oil, or enough oil to fill your
ice chest 1/3 way full. The oil temperature should be 140-145 degrees. Use your meat
thermometer to ensure this.
As your meat is reaching its finished 125 degrees, pour your 140 degree oil into the ice
chest. Place the meat in the oil and close the lid securely to avoid any heat loss. The
meat will hold for three to four hours at a perfect medium rare (130 to 135 degrees internal
temperature).
As the meat lies in waiting, a couple of other things are occurring. The oil has a heavier
viscosity than the juice in the meat. This ensures that none of the juice from the meat
will escape. Therefore, you will serve a juicier piece of meat.
None of the oil will penetrate the meat, so it is not important to use expensive olive oil.
You can use a common, inexpensive vegetable oil. There is also an enzyme reaction
occurring when meat protein is held at 130 degrees. This reaction works to tenderize the
meat! You will have a juicier, more tender piece of meat three hours later, and the meat will
stay at 130-135 degrees, or medium rare.
You will need several layers of paper towels to absorb the oil from the meat prior to slicing.

What is so great about this beef tenderloin cooking method is that you can cook your
meat way ahead of time and put it into the ice chest with oil, then hold it until it is time to
serve. It will still be medium rare!

The Best Steak Recipe Ever

What's better than a great steak?
For many, the answer is, "Nothing!"
But never fear, my "Best Steak Recipe Ever" is here to save the day.
If you are ever going to call yourself a gourmet cook, you absolutely must know how to
prepare a great steak. The method below is the best I've ever tried. I'm sure it will serve
you well with even the most discriminating of carnivores.

Start with the Right Steak

You need a steak that is at least 1 inch thick, preferably 1 inches. Tenderness depends
on the amount of work a particular muscle does. The areas along the back of the animal
(the loin, ribs, and rump) don't get as much exercise as the neck, shoulders, brisket, and
flanks.

My Three Favorite Steak Cuts

Filet This exceedingly tender steak is cut from the tenderloin. Ask for center-cut
filets, rather than ones from the tail or head; 6 to 8 ounces per person is a good
serving. Filet has a bit less flavor than other cuts, but it's perfectly suited for a high
heat sear. Serve this cut rare or medium rare; when cooked past that, its flavor can
become livery.
New York Strip The official name for this steak is top loin, and it comes from the
middle back, called the short loin, which is located on the exterior surface of the
spinal column. This steak is tender and well-flavored, and you will pay accordingly.
Rib-eye A rib-eye is my all-time favorite steak for searing. It's cut from the prime rib
area of the upper back and is the most flavorful and fattiest of the common
steaks. Rib-eye comes boneless or bone-in; both are great, though I think bone-in
offers more flavor. Butchers often cut this steak too thin so that a single steak will
weigh a pound or less. It cooks better if it is 1 inch thick.
Your steaks should be at room temperature before cooking. Preheat your oven to 375
F.

Pick the Perfect Pan

A well-seared steak requires a good heavy-based pan. I use my All-Clad 12-inch frying
pan or grill pan (if you want grill marks). A cast iron skillet is also very good. All three pans
can go right into the oven after searing.

When choosing the size of the pan, think about accommodating the meat with just a little
space between the steaks (if you're cooking more than one) and the edge of the pan. If too
tightly packed, the meat will steam and you won't get good browning. Too much empty
space, however, can cause any rendered fat to burn on the exposed surface of the pan.
A good hot pan is the key to a good seared steak. Before you get started, turn on the
exhaust fan, it's going to get smoky!
Generously season (room temperature steaks) with kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper
on both sides. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in the skillet over medium high heat until shimmering
hot. Place steaks in the pan and don't move for 2-3 minutes.
Lift up the edge with your tongs after 2 minutes to check to see if you have a nice sear. As
the steak sears and contracts, it will naturally release; be patient and most of the
browned exterior will stay on the steak and not on the bottom of the pan. Turn the
steaks over and sear on the other side for 2-3 minutes.

Tenderness and Temperature - Keys to a Perfect Steak

Use a probe thermometer and insert it into the thickest part of the meat, set for the
desired temperature and place the pan in the 375 degrees oven. Check for doneness with
the touch test.
I take my steaks out of the oven at 145 F (for medium). When you take your steaks out
of the oven, you must let your steaks rest to allow juices to be reabsorbed from the exterior
of the steak back to the center. The steaks will continue cooking by allowing the heat from
the hotter exterior to equilibrate with the cooler interior. The result is a perfectly cooked and
juicy steak.
Never cut into your steak immediately after you take them out of the oven. All of the
moisture runs out onto the plate and therefore cannot re-distribute inside the steak. I
usually let my steaks rest 15 minutes.
Another very important tip: When you take your steaks out of the oven, the handle is
extremely hot. Immediately put a slip on heat-resistance cover over the handle. You don't
know how many burns I have gotten because I did not do this step and while the steaks
were resting and I was doing something else, I tried to move the pan!
Voila!
A beautifully marbled prime grade steak just like the restaurants make. It really needs
nothing more! Maybe a good sauce (see below), and, of course, add a good wine; a robust
red wine like a Cabernet Sauvignon would be nice!
You could also do this steak on the grill. After you sear it on both sides, transfer it to the
pan and put it in the 375 F. oven.

Four Different Peppercorns Sauce

4 Medium Mushrooms (sliced very thin)
3 Shallots (finely chopped)

1 tablespoon of 4 different peppercorns (white, black, green and pink - crushed)

1 teaspoon Green Madagascar Peppercorns in Brine
1 ounce demi-glace
1 ounce butter
1 ounce brandy
1 ounce of dry white wine
1 cup of whipping cream
Salt, pepper
Remove steaks from the pan and put them on a platter and tent with foil. Discard grease
from pan and add butter. Add shallots and saut. Add mushrooms and saut. Crush
peppercorns and mash green Madagascar peppercorns, and add to pan. Flambe with
brandy and deglaze with white wine. Add demi-glace, juice of steaks and then cream. (If
you don't have homemade demi-glace, you can purchase Demi-Glace Gold (Veal) at your
gourmet market.) Reduce to half and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Note: To crush the 4 different peppercorns, put the peppercorns on countertop. Using the
side of a small pan, crush the peppercorns.

Tips for Cooking Lamb

When it comes to cooking lamb, I am always amazed at the number of people who
automatically and fervently proclaim their distaste for the idea. All they know for sure is
that they don't like lamb. Period.
Every now and then, though, I find an open minded person who is willing to actually give
one of my fabulous lamb recipes a try. I'm batting almost 100% on conversions. I kid
you not.
Cooking lamb has never really gotten the positive recognition it deserves. When you
were a child, old-fashioned, strong-flavored mutton roast may have tainted your palate. But
that's all changed now with the milder, more delicate flavor of today's lamb. Lamb is as
versatile as it is flavorful; it is terrific stewed, grilled, sauted, or roasted.

What is Lamb?
Lamb in grocery stores is 5-12 months old sheep. Unlike the mutton of old, the flavor is
quite mild, especially if it's domestically raised lamb. Most locally raised lamb is grain-fed,
while imported lamb tend to graze on grasses, producing a slightly stronger-flavored meat
when cooking lamb, but both are excellent.

Buying Lamb

When buying lamb, color is the best indicator of quality. You want it more pinkish than deep
red, and it should be tender, yet firm to the touch.

Lamb Cuts
The Rack
This luxury cut is like the prime rib of lamb. You'll typically find racks "frenched," meaning
the rib bones have been exposed and scraped clean. Racks are typically roasted whole or
cut into single-or double-rib chops. Remove any of the firm fat and tough silverskin.
Loin Chops
These chops look like really small T-bone beef steaks - they're lean, tender, and great for
grilling. Since they are so small, allow 2 or 3 per person.
Ground Lamb
Ground lamb is an excellent substitute in any recipe that calls for ground beef (it should
also be cooked to 165 F).
Halved Leg
This lamb cut is an ideal roast for 4-5 people. Weighing 3-4 pounds, butchers sometimes
label it a "semi-boneless halved leg" because a bone runs through its center. For roasting,
be sure to first remove the outer netting. This way you can trim off some of the outer fat
and season the meat thoroughly. You'll have to retie it with cotton butcher's twine, since
slipping it back into the net is next to impossible.
BRT Leg
BRT is a butcher's term for boned, rolled, and tied. Following the rack, the BRT leg is the
most popular cut of lamb. These roasts weigh 4-8 pounds with at least a pound of fat that
will need trimming - take this into account when buying for recipes. This versatile cut can
be roasted, grilled, or cut into chunks for stew.
Steaks
Just like beef, lamb steaks are cut from many different parts of the animal. But they most
commonly come from the chuck, shoulder, or leg, and are usually cut about an inch thick.
They're best when prepared using dry-heat cooking methods, such as grilling or sauting.
Shank
Lamb shanks come from the bottom section of the front legs. They're a reasonably
inexpensive cut and can really deliver in terms of flavor-especially when braised until
they're fall-off-the-bone tender. About the size of a turkey drumstick, lamb shanks make
quite a fancy dinner statement.

Lamb Stew
Here is a great lamb stew.

The vegetables are cooked separately from the stew, then served on top, almost as a
garnish. Cooking the vegetables this way, they stay vibrant and crisp, rather than turning
mushy from hours of cooking.
Toss Together, Brown
2 lb lamb leg or shoulder steaks, cut into 1 " chunks (If you choose to purchase the
lamb below, use only half and freeze the other half).
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. black pepper
1 T. all-purpose flour
3 T. olive oil
Toss lamb, salt, pepper, and flour together for the stew. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over
medium-high; add lamb and brown 4-5 minutes.
Stir In, Add
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 T.tomato paste
cup all-purpose flour
Stir in garlic and tomato paste; cook 2 minutes or until paste darkens. Add flour stirring to
coat.
Deglaze With, Add
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups beef broth
1 T. Worcestershire sauce
1 T. Dijon mustard
1 T. minced fresh thyme
1 T. minced fresh rosemary
2 bay leaves
1 lb. Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
Deglaze with wine and simmer 1 minute. Add broth, Worcestershire, Dijon, and herbs;
bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, cover, and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add potatoes, cover, and cook until potatoes and lamb are tender 30-40 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables.
For The Vegetables

Blanch and Shock

8 oz. baby carrots, peeled
4 oz. green beans, trimmed
4 oz. baby squash, halved
1 cup peeled pearl onion, frozen or fresh
Blanch each type of vegetable separately in boiling water. Shock in ice water, drain, and
set aside until 10 minutes before stew is done.
Melt, Add
3 T. unsalted butter
2 T. olive oil
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Melt butter with 2 T. oil in a large saut pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and cook
until golden 1-2 minutes. Add vegetables and saut until warm, 2-3 minutes.
Off Heat, Finish
2 T. chopped fresh parsley
Juice of a lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
Off heat, finish with parsley, lemon juice, and seasonings.
Stir Into Stew, Top
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
cup chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Sauteed vegetables
Stir peas, parsley, and seasonings into the stew.
To serve, divide sauted vegetables among bowls of stew.

Sear-Roasted Rack of Lamb With a Curry, Date, Chile, and Almond Crust
1 ancho chile, stem and seeds removed
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped

2 tablespoons curry powder

12 dates, pitted and chopped
4 tablespoons sherry vinegar
cup slivered almonds, toasted and chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus whole mint leave for garnish
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Two 7-8-bone lamb racks, frenched
1 cups chicken broth
Soak the chile in hot water until softened, about 15 minutes. Chop the chile coarsely. Heat
about 3 tablespoons of the oil in a saut pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook
until soft, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the curry powder.
Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the onion has browned, about 20 minutes.
Put the onion, ancho chile, dates, and sherry vinegar in the bowl of a food processor and
process until a paste forms. Transfer the paste to a bowl, mix in the almonds and the
chopped mint, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the oven to 425 F. Season the lamb all over with salt and pepper. Heat the remaining
2 tablespoons oil in a large saut pan over high heat. Brown the lamb, one rack at a time,
meat side first. Turn and brown the other sides. Remove the lamb from the pan, but don't
clean the pan.
Allow the lamb to cool for a few minutes. Set aside cup of the chile-date mixture. Using a
rubber spatula or your fingers, spread a thin layer of the remaining chile-date mixture
on the meat side of each lamb rack.
Arrange the lamb in a roasting pan, preferably one with a rack, with the chile-date mixture
facing up. Roast the lamb until it registers about 125 F on a thermometer for rare; 130 F for
medium rare, about 15 to 20 minutes (begin checking at 15 minutes). Remove the lamb to
a cutting board, cover loosely with foil, and allow the meat to rest for at least 15
minutes.
Pour off any excess fat from the saut pan. Add the chicken broth to the pan and cook
over high heat, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until the broth is
reduced by half. Add the reserved cup chile-date mixture to the sauce and whisk to
combine. Season with salt and pepper.
Slice the lamb rack into one or two-bone chops and serve three to four chops per
person. As you cut the chops apart, be careful not to let too much of the date crust fall off
the meat. Spoon some of the sauce around the chops and decorate the plate with whole
mint leaves.
Wine suggestion: With the slight heat and full flavors of this lamb, I would choose a
young, medium-bodied, fruity Zinfandel.

Cooking Pork Tenderloin

I often think that cooking pork tenderloin is a lost art. Everyone has a great steak recipe, or
a roast chicken or beef roast recipe "to die for". But who ever brags about their pork
tenderloin recipes?
I do, that's who.
I love cooking pork tenderloin, and when you finish reading this web page I hope you will
be warming up to it too. It really is a great cut of meat, being inexpensive, highly
versatile and succulent.

Reasons to Love Pork Tenderloin

1. At first look, pork tenderloin the long, slender, cylindrical cut that comes from the full
loin may appear expensive. But with no bone and very little fat, there's no waste. Most
tenderloins run to 1 pounds; one will serve three to four diners.
2. Pork tenderloin is one of the quickest-cooking cuts of meat. You can grill a tenderloin
over direct heat in less than 10 minutes, plus 5 minutes resting time.
3. Cooking pork tenderloin lends itself to varied methods and presentations. Roasted
or grilled whole, it can be brought to the table for carving on an oblong or oval platter or
sliced into thick medallions and fanned on the plate. You can cut it before cooking and
skewer it for kebabs or even use it in a stir-fry.
4. It works equally well as a weeknight entre or an elegant dinner-party centerpiece.
Stuffed pork tenderloin is particularly impressive.
For an intimate dinner, butterfly a tenderloin by slicing it lengthwise almost all the way
through and opening it out like a book. Paint the open surfaces with a pesto-style sauce or
layer in a fruit-nut stuffing or a traditional bread stuffing. (See Mushroom & Spinach
Stuffed Pork Tenderloin recipe below).
For a larger party, try a double stuffed tenderloin: Butterfly two tenderloins; sandwich
them together, cut sides together with stuffing between them; tie them with kitchen twine
and roast. Either way, when the roast is sliced into medallions, the line of stuffing in the
center offers dramatic visual appeal.
5. Pork tenderloin can be served hot or room temperature, making it perfect for potluck,
picnic or buffet. You can pre-slice it and offer a dipping sauce; add sandwich makings, if
you like.

Tips for Cooking Pork Tenderloin

1. Take its temperature: The tenderloin's small size and leanness make it susceptible to
overcooking, so an instant read thermometer is a must when cooking pork tenderloin.
The National Pork Board suggests cooking to a final internal temperature of 160 degrees,
which can be achieved by cooking to 155 degrees and removing the tenderloin from the

oven to rest 10 minutes (the temperature will rise several degrees).

Gourmet chef's prefer removing the pork at 145 or 150 degrees (it is perfectly safe at this
temperature) and letting it rest 5 minutes. If you're put off by pink pork, use the higher
figure, but 150 degrees will result in juicier pork. If you'll be reheating the meat, 145 is
preferable.
2. Flavor it: This mild-flavored cut lends itself to dry rubs, marinades and brining. Brining,
which enhances juiciness, is simpler than you think. Just mix a quart of cold water, cup
sugar and cup table salt in a large resealable plastic bag (include spices, aromatics and
citrus juice or zest for more flavor). Even 30 minutes will make a difference, but you can
brine it up to 8 hours in the fridge.
Marinades can be as simple as olive oil and garlic, but if you use an acid such as citrus
juice, don't marinate more than 2 hours, or the meat will be mushy.
Dry rubs ground herbs and spices, chiles, paprikas can be applied several hours
ahead of time, but even a last-minute rub will punch up your pork.
3. Glaze it: Barbecue sauces; fruit preserves, jellies and jams; reduced fruit purees and
juices; and syrups are all potential ingredients for a glaze. Apply the glaze after you've
seared the meat and before the final cooking.
4. Grill it: Its small size, tenderness and lack of fat make the pork tenderloin ideal for
grilling. Sear the tenderloin on the hottest part of the grill for about 1 minutes on each
side and then cooking over either direct heat, 2 to 3 minutes more per side, or indirect heat,
for 10 to 15 minutes more without turning.
5. Pan-roast it: This is my favorite method of cooking pork tenderloin. Take the
tenderloin out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Film an ovenproof skillet with oil and sear the tenderloin over medium-high heat to brown
all sides, about 5 minutes in all. If you're using a glaze, apply it now.
Place skillet in the oven and roast 15 to 20 minutes, until internal temperature is 145
degrees. Remove from the oven, tent the pork with foil and let it rest about 5 minutes
before serving. If you don't use a glaze, make a quick pan sauce by deglazing the skillet
with chicken broth, wine, fruit juice or another flavorful liquid.

Flavor Profiles for Cooking Pork Tenderloin

1. Latin: Use ground ancho or other chiles, cumin and garlic powder in dry rubs; adobostyle citrus-garlic marinades; mole or verde sauces.
2. Italian: Garlic and rosemary are classic with roast pork.
3. Caribbean: Mix together equal parts brown sugar and rum, then add Dijon mustard.
4. Asian: There's almost no Asian sauce that doesn't go with pork. Hoisin makes a quick
glaze; citrus-soy with garlic and fresh ginger works as a marinade, glaze or dipping sauce.
Or go Indian and coat your tenderloin with a tandoori-style paste, or glaze it with a chutney

thinned with lime juice.

5. Fruity: Pork pairs well with almost any fruit (add some tartness for balance if the fruit is
quite sweet). Cherries, blackberries, peaches, pineapples and apples all are good bets,
either as glaze ingredients or roasted in the pan with the tenderloin.
6. Nutty: Nuts are a wonderful addition to any stuffing for cooking pork tenderloin, or paint
the tenderloin with Dijon mustard and coat it with a crust of chopped pecans or other nuts
before roasting.

Leftover Pork Tenderloin

1. Slice it, top it with barbecue sauce or horseradish mustard and stuff it in a roll for
sandwiches.
2. Slice it thinly and fan it over crisp greens for a sesame-and soy-dressed Asian salad.
3. Cube it, heat it briefly in a skillet with salsa and spoon it over rice.
4. Cube it, heat it briefly in a skillet with pasta sauce and toss it with pasta.
5. Cube it, toss it with sliced onions and bell peppers in a dry nonstick or cast-iron skillet
over high heat, and serve it with tortillas and salsa verde or chipotle sauce, taco or fajitastyle.

Mushroom and Spinach Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 ounces shitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced (1 cups)
2 shallots (thinly sliced)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces baby spinach (5 lightly packed cups)
1 large pork tenderloin (about 1 pounds)
1 tablespoon lightly chopped fresh thyme leaves
cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
cup low-salt canned chicken broth
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Set a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450 F. Heat 2 tablespoons of the
oil in a heavy, ovenproof 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add
the mushrooms, sprinkle with teaspoon each of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until
browned and tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the spinach, sprinkle with salt, and cook,
tossing well with tongs, until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer the spinach mixture to a

colander and set the skillet aside.

Prior to cooking pork tenderloin, trim the pork of any silverskin or excess fat. Butterfly the
tenderloin by making a horizontal slice lengthwise through the tenderloin almost all the way
to the other side. Open the meat flat, like a book. Cover with plastic wrap, and using a meat
mallet, a small, heavy skillet, or the heel of your hand, lightly pound the pork so that it's
inch thick. Rub the pork all over with 1 tablespoon of the oil, half of the thyme, and about
teaspoon each of salt and pepper.
Squeeze any excess liquid from the spinach and mushrooms. Spread over the pork,
leaving bare a 2-inch border along one long edge. Sprinkle on the Parmigiano. Starting
with the long side that's covered with filling, roll the stuffed tenderloin toward the bareborder side so that it forms a cylinder, and secure it with four or five toothpicks or kitchen
twine.
Wipe the skillet clean if necessary. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in the skillet over
medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Sear the pork on all three non-seam sides until
well browned, about 6 minutes total. Flip onto the seam side, then transfer the skillet to the
oven. Cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the roast
registers 140 F, 10 to 15 minutes.
Transfer the meat to a clean cutting board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10
minutes. Meanwhile, return the skillet to the stove over medium-high heat (be careful; the
skillet's handle will be hot). Add the shallots, season with teaspoon salt, and cook,
stirring, until the shallots soften and brown, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth, sherry
vinegar, and the remaining 1 teaspoons thyme, and simmer briskly until the mixture
reduces by a bit more than half, about 4 minutes. Stir in the cream and season with salt
and pepper to taste.
Slice the pork into -inch thick slices and serve with the sauce.

Purchasing, Storing and Cooking Poultry

Cooking poultry is relatively easy - anyone can roast a great chicken. But there is more to it
than that . . .
This web page is one of the more serious in my website. I love poultry, prepared in
many different ways. It is a virtual staple in my kitchen. Because of this, I knew I needed to
learn everything I could to ensure that my methods of handling and cooking chickens,
turkeys, ducks, etc. was doing a sufficient job of protecting the health of my family.
Below is the essence of what you need to know if you are going to be a gourmet cook and
not threaten the well-being of your table guests.

How To Buy A Chicken

USDA Organic Certified - The official organic seal means the chicken was raised under a
specific set of humane guidelines, including requirements for shelter and an organic diet
without antibiotics or synthetic pesticides.

Certified Humane - Chickens with the Humane Farm Animal Care seal meet requirements
for humane treatment, which include access to clean water, no antibiotics, and no cages.
Pastured Poultry or "Grass-Ranged" Poultry - This term is most often used to label
chickens that have been raised on small farms in uncrowded conditions and been allowed
to feed on grass in addition to grain.
Air-Chilled - Most chickens are chilled in water, but a new process called air-chilling
prevents them from absorbing excess water, which can mean a tastier, crispier bird. There
are brands that are both air-chilled and certified organic.
Kosher - Kosher chickens are slaughtered according to Jewis dietary laws. The process
includes brining the chicken in a salt solution, which not only removes any remaining blood
and bacteria but enhances flavor as well. There are brands that are both kosher and
organic.

Hazards
Poultry is a potentially hazardous food. It is highly perishable and particularly
susceptible to contamination by salmonella bacteria.
Before cooking poultry, it is critical that it be stored at the correct temperatures.
Fresh chickens can be stored on ice or at 32 34 degrees F. for up to two days; larger
birds can be stored up to four days at these temperatures. Frozen poultry should be kept at
0 degrees F or below (the colder the better) and can be held for up to six months. It should
be thawed gradually under refrigeration, allowing two days for chickens and as long as four
days for larger birds.
Never attempt cooking poultry that is still partially frozen; it will be impossible to cook
the product evenly, and the areas that were still frozen may not reach the temperatures
necessary to destroy harmful bacteria.
Partially cooking poultry one day and finishing it later is out of the question; bacteria
are more likely to grow under such conditions. Don't do it.
Always wash your hands, cutting boards, knives, (and anything else that comes in contact
with chicken) with soap and water immediately to prevent contamination.
Temperature, looseness of joints, and the color of the juices determine when a chicken or
turkey is done. Use an instant-read thermometer to determine the internal
temperature. Insert the thermometer in the thickest part of the item away from any bones.
It should read 165 - 170 degrees F. When bone-in poultry is done, the leg will begin to
move freely in its socket. When cooking poultry, it is done when its juices run clear or show
just a trace of pink.

My Secret to Baking Chicken

Baking chicken is basically one of those areas of cooking where you can hardly go
wrong. Basically, you put the bird into the oven and cook until done. And it comes out

great. Nothing to it.

Of course, there actually is more to it, at least if you want a great result, or even above
average. As a budding gourmet cook, you should be shooting for nothing but the best, and
that's what I have for you, right here on this web page.
I've baked many a chicken, but the procedure below works the best. Once you've tried
it, you will never want to do it any other way. It starts with "butterflying" the bird . . .
Butterflying a whole baking chicken will make it juicy, flavorful, and much quicker to
cook. You butterfly a chicken by simply removing the backbone and flattening the chicken.
Once you butterfly a chicken a few times, you'll be able to do it in just two or three minutes.
Kitchen shears work best for this technique.
Using poultry shears, cut along each side of the backbone to remove it. Flip the chicken
over, press firmly on the center of the breast and break the breastbone. That's it. Simple,
huh?
A flattened baking chicken looks impressive, but looks aren't the only benefit to butterflying.
Since the flat shape allows for more even heat distribution during cooking, a
butterflied chicken cooks faster and stays juicier than a whole chicken. It is delicious simply
brushed with a little olive oil and sprinkled with salt and pepper before cooking.

A Wonderful Marinated Butterflied Chicken Recipe

1 3 to 4 pound chicken
8 medium cloves garlic, cut into slivers
1 2-inch knob ginger, peeled and finely grated
Kosher salt
cup fresh lemon juice
cup fresh lime juice
2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt (about 1 lb)
2 tsp. coriander seeds, crushed
Butterfly the chicken as described above. Sprinkle both sides of chicken evenly with 1
tablespoon kosher salt. Put the chicken in a 9X13-inch Pyrex baking dish. Add the lemon
and lime juice and turn to coat the chicken well. Cover and set aside at room temperature
for 30 minutes.
Combine the ginger, garlic, coriander, and yogurt in a large, shallow, nonreactive bowl, and
stir until the mixture is smooth and all of the seasonings are distributed evenly. Drain the
excess citrus juice off the chicken but don't pat the chicken dry. Put the baking chicken in
the bowl with the yogurt marinade, coating the chicken on all sides and working the yogurt
mixture under the breast and thigh skin as much as possible. Cover tightly and refrigerate
for 2 or 3 hours.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 F. Just before
cooking, remove the baking chicken from the marinade and discard the marinade. Don't
wipe off the marinade that coats the chicken because it will keep the meat moist and
form a delicious crust as it roasts. Set the chicken skin side up on a broiler pan. Sprinkle
with salt. Tuck the wingtips under the breast.
Bake until the juices run clear and the thigh registers 175 to 180 F. Let the chicken rest
for 10 minutes before cutting it into quarters and serving.

Best Fried Chicken Recipes

Below you will find the two best fried chicken recipes I have ever tasted.
I know, I know, the first thing that comes to mind when you think of gourmet cooking isn't
fried chicken. Well, I don't care. I love fried chicken!
Now, there is fried chicken and there is good fried chicken. I'm sure you agree. But here,
on my web page, you will find only the two very best fried chicken recipes in the world.
Take my word for it. You need look no further.

7 Steps To Perfect Fried Chicken

1. Brine the Bird
Meat usually loses 30 percent of its moisture before you cook it, but if it's brined it loses
just 15 percent and that's a big difference. Brining does two things: The salt solution turns
certain compounds into liquid in the muscle, which means more juice, and youre plumping
up the cells and filling them with water.
On its way into the meat, the brine will carry any extra flavorings you've added. So season
the brine, if you like, with herbs or spices.
For brining overnight, the classic brine is one cup of table salt to a gallon of water.
For smaller pieces, like a cut-up fryer, you can increase the salt tremendously and brine for
a shorter time. Take a cup of table salt, rub it well over all the pieces, cover them with ice
water and refrigerate for three for four hours. Rinse it really well.
2. Marinate the Bird
Season the marinade. If brining makes the meat juicy, marinating it in buttermilk will
make it tender. The calcium in the buttermilk tenderizes the meat. A buttermilk bath also
sweetens up the chicken a little bit . . . and it attracts a good bit of flour, so it solves the
crust thing. Use low-fat or nonfat buttermilk, and season it generously with hot sauce,
such as Tabasco, or Red Pepper Sauce.
3. Create the Crust
Season the flour generously. Stick with all-purpose flour because of a light coating. Use
salt and pepper no sugar (because the sugar will get too brown on the outside before

the inside is done). As you finish flouring each piece of chicken, lay it on a rack over a
cookie sheet. Refrigerate the coated chicken for an hour before cooking. This resting
time helps the breading stay on.
4. Choose the Right Pan
It's got to be cast-iron. A cast-iron skillet allows for even heat and even browning.
5. Fry Right
Fry in vegetable oil, but add a little bacon grease for flavor. I like to use oil rather than
shortening. And use fresh oil at high temperatures. Whether you use canola, corn, peanut,
sunflower, safflower or soybean oil is up to you.
The oil should come halfway up the side of the chicken pieces. Using less means the
food stays on the bottom of the pan instead of floating above the bottom of the pan. You
need a different temperature for the legs, which are smaller, and the breasts, which are
huge. You will need to cook in batches. 340 degrees is the temperature needed for smaller
pieces (dark meat takes longer to cook), 325 degrees for the breasts.
When you drop the pieces into the hot oil, that sizzle you hear is moisture coming out of the
food. As long as moisture is coming out, no oil can go in. As long as there's moisture
inside, creating outward pressure, your food won't get greasy. But if you overcook the
food and run out of moisture on the inside, the food sucks in the grease.
If the temperature is too high, and you take out the food because it's too brown, too fast, its
still so full of moisture that it will make the crust soggy.
The side of the food you put into the oil first will always look better than the other side, so
start the pieces skin side down. When you see tiny bubbles in the crust on the uncooked
side, it's time to turn the piece over. Turn the chicken only once, and don't poke it or push it
around while it cooks.
6. Cover It Up
Covering the chicken keeps the heat even and helps the chicken cook through. Uncover it
toward the end, to crisp it.
7. Serve It
Sprinkle the cooked chicken with a dusting of spices. Fried chicken should be eaten
within 15 minutes, or be chilled completely. Don't try to keep it warm in a oven. It will
release moisture and make the crust turn gummy.
Here are the two of my best fried chicken recipes; one is without an egg wash and
the other one is with one:

Perfect Fried Chicken

1 cup salt
1 quart water

1 chicken, 2 to 3 pounds, cut into 8 pieces

2 cups buttermilk
1 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
1 cup flour
1 tsp. each salt, ground red pepper and garlic powder
4 cups vegetable oil
2 Tblsp. Bacon drippings
Dissolve salt in water in a large bowl; add the chicken. Cover; refrigerate 3 to 4 hours. Pour
off the brine; rinse the chicken well under running water in the bowl. Drain. Add buttermilk
and hot sauce to chicken. Cover bowl; refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 8.
Combine flour, salt, red pepper and garlic powder in another large bowl or food-storage
bag. Drain chicken and add to bowl or bag 2 or 3 pieces at a time. Turn in bowl or shake in
sealed bowl to coat. Remove chicken to rack; refrigerate at least 1 hour.
Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil; stir in bacon drippings. Heat to
350 degrees, or until a drop of water spatters when it hits the hot oil. Add drumsticks, wings
and thighs, skin side down (the oil should come about halfway up the sides of the pieces of
chicken). Cover; cook until tiny bubbles begin to appear in the crust on the side facing up,
about 10 minutes. Turn; cook 10 minutes. Uncover the skillet; reduce heat to medium-low.
Cook until chicken is golden brown, 5-10 minutes. Remove to a rack placed over a cookie
sheet.
Raise heat under skillet to medium-high. Heat oil to 350 degrees; add breasts, skin side
down. Cook until tiny bubbles begin to appear in the crust, about 10 minutes. Turn; cover.
Cook 10 minutes; uncover. Lower heat to medium-low; cook until golden brown, 5-10
minutes.

Southern Fried Chicken

1 cup salt
1 quart water
1 chicken, 2 to 3 pounds, cut into 8 pieces
3 eggs
1/3 cup water
1 cup hot red pepper sauce
2 cups self-rising flour
1 tsp. pepper
House seasoning (approx. 1-2 tsp.)

 1 cup salt
cup black pepper
cup garlic powder
Dissolve salt in water in a large bowl; add the chicken. Cover; refrigerate 3 to 4 hours. Pour
off the brine; rinse the chicken well under running water in the bowl. Drain. In a medium
bowl, beat the eggs with the water. Add enough hot sauce so the egg mixture is bright
orange. In another bowl, combine the flour and pepper. Season the chicken with the house
seasoning. Dip the seasoned chicken in the egg, and then coat well in the flour mixture.
Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil; stir in bacon drippings. Heat to
350 degrees, or until a drop of water spatters when it hits the hot oil. Add drumsticks, wings
and thighs, skin side down (the oil should come about halfway up the sides of the pieces of
chicken). Cover; cook until tiny bubbles begin to appear in the crust on the side facing up,
about 10 minutes. Turn; cook 10 minutes. Uncover the skillet; reduce heat to medium-low.
Cook until chicken is golden brown, 5-10 minutes. Remove to a rack placed over a cookie
sheet.
Raise heat under skillet to medium-high. Heat oil to 350 degrees; add breasts, skin side
down. Cook until tiny bubbles begin to appear in the crust, about 10 minutes. Turn; cover.
Cook 10 minutes; uncover. Lower heat to medium-low; cook until golden brown, 5-10
minutes.

How to Brine a Turkey

I'll bet you never thought you'd be reading a web page entitled "How to Brine a Turkey".
Brining is not exactly at the forefront of current turkey preparation and cooking methods.
But it should be. Just wait until you try the recipe you will find below. I predict it will become
your standard Thanksgiving Day recipe for years to come - possibly generations. Really!
Here we go . . .
To "brine" simply means to soak something in a salt solution; it works because of
osmosis, or the tendency of fluids to diffuse through cells in order to equalize ion
concentrations. (Got that?) Simply put, it means that when you soak a turkey (or other
meat) in brine for long enough, it absorbs some of the moisture 6 to 8% of its original
weight.
So, when you cook the turkey, you start off and end up with a moister bird. Some of
the salt and any other flavors you add to the brine also migrate into the bird, so your turkey
becomes more flavorful. The salt causes a change in the turkey's protein structure that
allows it to better hold onto its moisture.
I want to give you a couple of ways to brine. The first one is a basic brine and the other one
is a dry-brine. I have tried both. I like the dry-brine because it is not as cumbersome as the
basic one. While both turkeys were very flavorful, the turkey with the dry brine browned

better with a crisp browned skin. Although, I have to say, the basic brine technique did
result in a slightly more tender bird.

Basic Brine Technique

In a pot that holds at least 6 quarts, combine 1 cup kosher salt, cup sugar, and 2 quarts
cool water. Put the pot over high heat and stir occasionally until the salt and sugar dissolve.
Remove from the heat and let cool. Stir in another 2 quarts water and chill in the
refrigerator.
Remove the neck, giblets, and tail (if present) from the turkey; reserve them for making
turkey broth. Discard the liver. Rinse the turkey well. Double up two turkey-size oven bags
and then roll down the edges of the bags a bit to help them stay open. Put the bags in a
heavy-duty roasting pan and put the turkey, breast side down, in the inner bag. Pour the
brine over the turkey (have someone hold the bags open for you, if possible). Gather the
inner bag tightly around the turkey so the brine is forced to cover most of the turkey and
secure the bag with a twist tie. Secure the outer bag with a twist tie. Refrigerate the turkey
(in the roasting pan, to catch any leaks) for 12 to 18 hours. If your turkey is kosher, don't
brine it, as it has already been treated with salt.

Dry Brine Technique

The night before cooking, remove the giblets from the turkey, cut off the tail, if attached,
and reserve them for making the turkey broth. Rinse the turkey thoroughly. Sprinkle the
turkey with cup kosher salt all over. Starting on the back side, then the cavity, and finally
the breast. Put the turkey on a wire rack set over a rimmed pan or platter and refrigerate
uncovered overnight.

Dry-Brined Roasted Turkey

1 10 to 12 pound turkey
cup kosher salt
2 medium to large yellow onions, unpeeled and cut into eights
2 medium carrots, unpeeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 medium ribs celery, cut into 1-inch chunks
The night before: Follow instructions above for the dry brine technique.
One hour before roasting: Remove the turkey from the refrigerator and let stand at room
temperature, 15 to 20 minutes before roasting, position a rack in the lowest part of the oven
and heat the oven to 400 F. Put half of the onions, carrots, and celery in the turkey cavity.
Tie the legs together with kitchen twine. Tuck the wings behind the neck and under the
turkey. Scatter the remaining onions, carrots, and celery in a large flameproof heavy-duty
roasting pan fitted with a large V-rack (I like All-Clad). Set the turkey, breast side down, on
the V-rack.
Roast for 30 minutes. Then pour 1 cup of water into the roasting pan and roast for
another 30 minutes. Remove the turkey from the oven and close the oven door. With two

wads of paper towels, carefully turn the turkey over so that it's breast side up. Add another
1 cup water to the roasting pan. Return the turkey to the oven and continue to roast until an
instant-read thermometer inserted in the thigh registers 170 F.
Keep a close eye on the vegetables and pan drippings throughout the cooking process.
They should be kept dry enough to brown and produce the rich brown drippings to make
gravy, but moist enough to keep from burning, so add water as needed throughout.
Transfer the turkey to a carving board or platter, tent with foil, and let rest for at least 45
minutes and up to 1 hour before carving and serving.
Meanwhile, make the gravy from the drippings. First you will need to make a rich turkey
broth.
Turkey Broth (you can make ahead and refrigerate until needed):
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
Giblets, neck, and tail from the turkey (cut into 1-inch pieces) (discard liver)
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
Heat the oil in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the giblets, neck, tail
pieces, and onion; saut until the giblets lose their raw color and the onion softens and
begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 20 minutes;
the turkey parts will release a lot of liquid. Add 1 quart water, bring to a boil, partially cover
the pan, reduce the heat to medium low or low, and simmer gently until the broth is
flavorful, about another 30 minutes. Strain the broth into a 1 quart heatproof measuring
cup. Let sit until the fat rises to the surface and then pour off or skim the fat from the broth.
Now for the delicious gravy.
Turkey Pan Gravy
Drippings and vegetables from Dry-Brined Turkey
2 tablespoons Cognac
cup dry vermouth
2 cups Turkey Broth
2 teaspoons lightly chopped fresh thyme leaves
cup heavy cream
cup all-purpose flour
Set the roasting pan with the turkey drippings and vegetables over two burners set on
medium high. Add the Cognac, vermouth, and cup of the turkey broth; cook stirring with
a wooden spoon or wooden spatula to loosen the browned bits in the pan, until the liquid
comes to a simmer. Strain the contents of the roasting pan through a large sieve and into a
large saucepan. Add the remaining 2 cups turkey broth and the thyme to the saucepan and
bring to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce the heat and let simmer to blend the flavors,

about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the heavy cream in a small bowl and whisk the flour into the cream to make
a smooth paste. Gradually whisk the cream mixture into the turkey broth mixture. Bring to a
boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to low, and gently simmer to thicken the gravy
and cook off the raw flour flavor, about 10 minutes. If it becomes too thick, just add a
little more broth and simmer. Keep hot until ready to serve.