Amsterdam

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Amsterdam
Autumn 2014
Walking Tour
The best sights, cafs and

shops in the city centre
inyourpocket.com
N14 - FREE COPY
Zandvoort aan Zee
Hollands seaside resort is

only a train ride away
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
A few words from the editor
Arriving & Getting Around
How to get to and from your hotel
Amsterdam Basics
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
Centrum
10
Canals, cafs & the Plantage
Nieuw-West
34
Lakes, parks and modern architecture
Noord
36
Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design
Oost
46
Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhoods
West
48
Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek
Zuid
50
De Pijp and some of the citys best museums
Zuidoost
52
Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax
Weve put together some city centre sightseeing, eating, shopping

and drinking highlights that can be seen and experienced in a short
preiod of time. Rent a bike to save time or follow the tour on p.9
on foot.
Gay Amsterdam
54
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
Coffeeshops
56
Where to smoke responsibly
Lifestyle Directory
60
Spas, doctors and other useful information
Amsterdam for kids
62
Interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring
Zandvoort aan Zee
63
Discover Hollands most popular seaside resort
List of small features

Dutch pancakes
Uitsmijter: order the bouncer
Bitter... balls?
Red Light streets
London Calling
Bock Beer Festival
A farewell to pints
Documentary Film Fest
Movember
Ajax & Noord
Oldest gay bar
Football matches
Miraculous Amsterdam
11
15
16
18
19
21
23
25
27
39
55
60
61
Maps & Index

Hollands most popular seaside resort is only a short train ride away
from Amsterdam. Walk along the beach, take advantage of its excellent dining and nightlife, experience the thrill of a live car race or
visit the pristine nature that surrounds Zandvoort aan Zee on p.63.
Photo courtesy of Zandvoort aan Zee
facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Centrum: old centre map

Centrum: city centre map
Noord map
Netherlands map
Venue index
31
32
44
66
67
Autumn 2014
Foreword
Theres so much to see in Amsterdam that one often feels
obliged to forgo simple pleasures to visit as many museums and attractions as is humanly possible. However, a
rainy autumn day is the perfect excuse to enjoy a relatively
guilt-free dash into one of Amsterdams centuries-old bars
known as bruin cafs. After all, we love local architecture
and the Dutch old masters as much as the next guy, but
we also believe that Vermeer and Rembrandt probably appreciated a tasty brew now and again, so why deny yourself a delicious seasonal bock beer at an historic pub whose
quaint wooden floors are either covered in sand or fall foliage? We would also argue that sitting by a warm fireplace
in a venue where generations of Amsterdammers imbibed
alcoholic beverages and conversed on the topics of the day
is just as authentic a local experience as queuing up for the
Rijksmuseum (perhaps even more so). Just keep reading
Amsterdam In Your Pocket to find the perfect bruin caf, restaurant, hotel, shop or museum for you.
Publisher
E S S E N TI A L
In Your Pocket Netherlands
C I TY G U I D E S
Weikesstraat 21, 5335 LE Alem, The Netherlands
ISSN 2211-2480
Company Office & Accounts
Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, amsterdam@inyourpocket.com,
www.inyourpocket.com
Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by Microdot in the EU
Editorial
Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld
Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis
Research Theo Leerintveld
Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy
of Amsterdam city governments and Amsterdam Marketing.
Cover Martins Zaprauskis
COVER STORY
Sales & Circulation

Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, theo.leerintveld@
inyourpocket.com
Just beyond the pretty green

lights reflected in the waters
of the Damrak shown on this
issues cover are lights of a different colour that attract tourists from around the globe.
Amsterdams famous Red Light
district is only a short walk from
the train station and, oddly, also
includes one of the citys most
impressive pieces of architecture, the Old Church or
Oude Kerk, a national treasure.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket
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amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
BY PLANE
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than
10km southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest
airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers
each year, but its easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient.
Youll find your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and
luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear
customs youll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essentially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre
and part food court. Although located under one roof, the
building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4.
Just walk straight to the main hall to find most services that
you might need including transportation to the city. An official tourist information centre is available in terminal
2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are
available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers
cost 6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins.
You can also leave your bags at the storage office for the
same price, but its only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small
bank of lockers is also available on the ground floor between terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges
and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any problems
getting money.
Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to
the far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and
youll find a Travel Taxi office. Buses and hotel shuttles are available outside the terminal. Just walk straight
through the arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside
with the names of the citys biggest hotels that operate
their own shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which
is clearly marked at the stop. You can also take the blue
Connexxion Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle
that stops at a number of large hotels along a planned
route. A very long list of hotels is posted at the stand. A
single ticket costs 15.50 and children 4 - 14 travel for half
price. If your hotel isnt listed its possible that it can be arranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for Leidseplein in
the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of
other destinations in Amsterdam.
If youre like most people you wont even leave the terminal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes
for only 3.70. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of
train departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you
can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines
with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on
the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single,
destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and
the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment,
insert your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price
and then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the
Central Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train
tickets at the Train Tickets & Services office but youll pay
an extra 0.50.
BY TRAIN
Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achievement in its own right, it was later criticised by urban planners for having cut off the city of canals from its most essential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many
of the citys historic cafs were afforded an impressive vista
of ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. Today, the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of
a mess as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to
accommodate a controversial new metro line.
Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk
downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands,
kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex
(www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available
near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and
4/5. For toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to platform 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger
King, Ben & Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas
(1st Class) and a bar, Caf Balkon.
For tourist information exit the building on the
city centre side and walk across the street to the official
tourist information centre. Lockers for luggage storage
are located on the far east side of the station, but it might
take a while to find an empty locker and even more time to
figure out how to use one. You can only pay with a credit
card. Place your belongings in a locker and close
the door. Find the nearest
keypad that corresponds
with the numbered section
of lockers you have chosen.
Confirm that the locker
number listed is the locker
you have chosen and then
swipe your credit card. Just
stick it in the slot and pull
it out. A ticket good for 24
hours will be ed. When you
want to remove your luggage just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your
locker will automatically open.
Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town
and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys
best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here,
but if youre staying in another section of town such as the
Museum District you can take one of the many trams outside. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.60. He will activate
the card for you, but you have to place it up against one
of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on
using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might
be worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station
and walk across the street to the GVB public transportation office (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00) to
the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free ferries to
Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side of the
station on the River IJ.
Autumn 2014

Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its
major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public
transportation is excellent and we dont recommend driving within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the preferred Dutch method of travel and some would say its the
only way to truly experience the city.
BICYCLE RENTAL
There are many ways to see Amsterdam and its surroundings but our favourite option is to hire a set of wheels. There
are around 16 million bikes -thats twice the number of cars.
Amsterdam also has plenty of places to park your bike for
free, but be sure to remember where you left it. Please note
that around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually. All told, Amsterdam commuters cycle more than 2,000,000km every
day!
AMSTERBIKE
Bike and scooter rental.QH-4, Piet Heinkade 11a, tel.
(+31) 204 19 90 63, www.amsterbike.eu. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun. Prices: 8.50/3 hours,
12.50/day.
BLACK BIKES
A full day bike rental will set you back only 10 and it has the
longest opening hours in the city.QF-9, Lijnbaansgracht
282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, info@hetzwartefietsenplan.
nl, www.black-bikes.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. Also on Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat
88; Maasstraat 106 - 108; Tweede Helmersstraat 49;
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 146. TJA
MIKES BIKE RENTAL SHOP
Mikes Bikes is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing
tours, but we recommend its beach cruisers with special
tires that hardly ever go flat. Each bike also comes with two
locks, which isnt a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike theft
is as common as dope smoke.QG-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel.
(+31) 206 22 79 70, www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam.
com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. (5 - 15). JA
RECYCLED RENTALS
This company claims to have the cheapest bike rental
in town and at only 5/day, it might be right.QA-2,
Spuistraat 84a, tel. (+31) 654 68 14 29, rentals@
recycledrentals.com, www.recycledrentals.com.
IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE

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BOAT RENTAL
SLOEP DELEN
This company rents 15 electric boats from two locations at
Nassaukade 69 and at Borneosteiger 1. You can reserve a
date and time online. All boats are powered by electricity
and theyre easy to navigate even without any prior experience.QC-6, Nassaukade 69, tel. (+31) 204 19 10 07,
www.sloepdelen.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 50/hour.
BUSES
City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as
a final option once the trams have stopped running. Night
buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes connecting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein.
CAR RENTAL
Theres nothing like autumn in Amsterdam
AVIS
Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories
and are available from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl.
Open 06:30 - 23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A
EUROPCAR
Cars from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpassage 10), tel. (+31) 203 16 41 90, www.europcar.com.
Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. Also at E-9,
Overtoom 197. A

FERRIES
Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central
Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord
on the other side of the River IJ. In total there are six ferry
lines which transport pedestrians, bicycles and sometimes
mopeds. All of the lines are free.
AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL
Amsterdam in particular and the Netherlands in general
have a long seafaring tradition. Passenger Terminal Amsterdam hosts more than 250,000 people every year.
The striking architectural monument is within walking
distance of the Central Station and only 25km from the
North Sea. The cosy hallway offers a giant chess game,
some food venues, a functional kids corner and a luggage room with instructions in six languages.QO-1, Piet
Heinkade 27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00, fax (+31 ) 205 09 10
09, info@ptamsterdam.com, www.ptamsterdam.com.
TJAL
METRO
The metro is fast and efficient. Its a combination of underground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram). Only
some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and the
Amstel are actually located underground. The four metro
lines all depart from Central Station and head out to their
final destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Isolatorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future,
hence all of the construction around town.
PETROL STATIONS
TEXACO
QD-7, Marnixstraat 250. Open 24hrs. Also at Sarphatistraat 225. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdams public transportation
company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus
service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since
2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows
you to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains using just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard options
and you can upload them with travel credits at special machines located at stations and even in most supermarkets.
You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144
and 168 hours, which afford you unlimited travel on all
trams, buses, metros and night buses and an economical
way to explore the city. A one-hour OV card can be purchased onboard from GVB drivers and conductors, but a
premium is charged for this ticket. It costs 2.70 for one
hour of unlimited travel on different buses and trains in
the city that begins once you board your selected mode of
transportation and check in by placing it next to the scanners near the doors. You must also scan your card when
leaving the vehicle.
Bikes, boats and canals in the Grachtengordel
TAXIS
Taxis can be hailed on the street or found at one of more
than 50 official taxi ranks. The ranks, identifiable by blue
boards, can be found near tourist attractions such as the
Dam, Leidesplein and Rembrandtplein.
ELECTRIC TAXI COMPANY TAXI-E
This cab company uses environmentally-friendly electric
cars. Free wi-fi is included in the price, credit cards are accepted and it offers cheap rates to the airport.Qtel. (+31)
881 00 44 44, www.taxi-e.nl. AW
TCA TAXI
This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Station, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederiksplein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them
and order a cab any time of the day or night. Qtel. (+31)
207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl. Open 24hrs.
TRAINS
Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for
getting around and there are three types of trains available.
The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which
is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Belgium, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent
stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity offers fast
connections between Dutch cities. There are NS ticket machines at every station. You can pay cash or use a Maestro
PIN at the NS Tickets & Service desk at major stations and
the machines at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Central
also accept credit cards. You can easily find all train departures as well as ticket price information at www.ns.nl.
TRAMS
Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They
provide the best way of getting around the city and run
from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldnt have to wait longer than
10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys
across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram
drivers. They cost 2.70, but if you plan on travelling a lot
youre better off purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7. You
have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when
entering and exiting the vehicle.
Autumn 2014
Amsterdam Basics
Read on and find out why the Dutch allow people to smoke
joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty
of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available
here.
ALCOHOL
Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre
never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken,
Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but
other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A
wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on offer at
most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from
Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip
to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of
the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that specialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as
jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or
wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll
be carded, so always bring identification. This holds true
for supermarkets and off-licences, too. If youre a little too
tipsy youll probably be asked (firmly, yet kindly) to leave
the premises and if you dont cooperate you could end up
spending a night sobering up in a drunk tank.
CYCLING
Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basically as flat as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive
country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection
of cycling paths and youll see why the Dutch love their
bikes so much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like
Amsterdam can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars,
trucks, trams, buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all
serve as terrifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your
field of vision from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be
just as dangerous. Although parents are confident enough
in bicycle safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport
their children around town, loads of other cyclists ignore
traffic rules and basically ride wherever they like often causing mayhem on the streets.
Navigate a maze of bikes next to Central Station
Lya Cattel
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
On public holidays shops and museums often close
earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools,
city councils, post offices and banks are closed and
some shops and restaurants may also take the day off.
January 1
April 3, 2015
April 5, 2015
April 6, 2015
April 27, 2015
May 1

May 4

May 5
May 9
May 13
May 23 - 24
June 20
June 26
September 21
December 5
December 25 - 26
December 31
New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)

Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
Easter Sunday (Pasen)

Easter Monday (Pasen)
Kings Day (Koningsdag)
Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
Remembrance of the Dead
(Nationale Herdenking)
Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid)
Mothers Day (Moederdag)
Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
Whitsun (Pinksteren)
Fathers Day (Vaderdag)
Veterans Day (Veteranendag)
Budget Day (Prinsjesdag)
St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
Christmas (Kerstmis)
New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
MAIL & PHONES

All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but
of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from
abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call
one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
MONEY
Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopted the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is
no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There
are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of
1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following
values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collection of 200 and 500 bills in your wallet might make you
feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that theyre almost never
accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and
withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in
the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and
MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that
ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading
to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the
train station you can find a GWK Travelex shop (Stationsplein, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00).
Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry
some money with you as some bars only accept cash and
others require a minimum purchase of 15 - 20 to use a
card.
Amsterdam Basics
PROSTITUTION
It may surprise you to know that the profession that has
helped to make Amsterdam a household word across
the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the
Dutch did what they always do when confronted with
a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind
eye to the practice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red
Light district only rousted sex workers if they became
too aggressive with passers-by showing off body parts
or tapping on the glass. Today, window shopping on the
Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction,
but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to
make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo.
Be respectful and, whatever you do, dont take any photographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if
you want some photographic evidence of your visit to
Europes erotic pleasure capital. For more information
see Nightlife.
ROADS
Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars (its
compulsory in the Netherlands to have your car checked
for faults at least once every two years) traffic quite frequently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The majority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and
considering the severity of traffic fines, this seems wise
enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you
160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared
to pay 180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum
speed by 50km/h youll lose your driving licence and be
fined. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside
city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the
road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the
right side of the road, and youre not allowed to cycle on
motorways! You dont want to know how many tourists
are plucked off the road by police each year.
SMOKING
Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Netherlands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on
July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This
is partially because the government started a huge campaign to make people aware of the effects of smoking on
their health. These days you can have a wild night out and
come home without your hair and clothes reeking of cigarette smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit and others (read: smokers) find it a pain and banish themselves to
the many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear
rules you may suddenly find yourself in a smoke-filled pub.
This is usually in bars with just a single staff member: the
boss. Or you may find yourself in a pub that flouts the ban
on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you.
If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates
this, then the manager will receive a fine upon inspection.
The Netherlands is of course also known for its wafts of
marijuana (see Coffeeshops).
CITY CENTRE TOUR

Most people arrive at Amsterdams Central Station so
thats as good a place to start as any other. Walk down
the touristy Damrak, which is lined with bars, souvenir
shops and fast food joints. If youd like to start your day
in true Dutch fashion then grab a deep-fried frikandel
and frites at Manneken Pis or just keep walking down
the street. Just ahead is Dam Square home to street
performers as well as the National Monument, a 22mhigh pillar that looks like a white phallus. On the opposite end of the square youll find Royal Palace Amsterdam whose interior is so opulent youll think youve
been transported to Versailles.
Next walk down the Kalverstraat, which is a pedestrian shopping street where you can find major fashion
brands as well as cafs and fast food shops. Head down
the street until you see the Spui Square on your right.
Its full of cafs as well as one of Amsterdams premiere
English-language bookshops, The American Book
Center. For affordable Dutch food you cant beat t
Lieverdje just around the corner on the Singel. We always order the uitsmijter or the pea soup. If youre looking for the ultimate Amsterdam bruin caf experience
then have a drink and a soup and sandwich at Caf
Hoppe on the Spui, which has been around since 1670.
Continue your walk down the Singel until you reach the
famous Flower Market where you can buy seeds, bulbs
and lots of souvenirs. Pass the Mint Tower (Munttoren)
and walk down Reguliersbreestraat, a popular gayfriendly street flanked by loads of restaurants, until you
reach Rembrandtplein. Walk across the bridge over
the Amstel to Waterlooplein where youll find many of
Amsterdams Jewish sights, including the Portuguese
Synagogue. The Rembrandthuis Museum is just
around the corner to the left on Jodenbreestraat. If you
walk across another bridge youll reach Sint Antoniesbreestraat, which leads to the Nieuwmarkt, home to
fashionable cafs and bars as well as Den Waag, Amsterdams most impressive medieval gate.
From here you can explore Amsterdams Chinatown
on the Zeedijk. Wing Kee and the stylish New King are
both good choices for dinner. If you go left from the
Zeedijk youll run across Oudezijds Achterburgwal and
Oudezijds Voorburgwal, the main canal streets of the
Red Light district. The bars, coffeeshops and prostitutes
behind their windows are the main attractions here, but
if its still not too late you can also visit the Oude Kerk,
the citys oldest church. The Hash, Marijuana & Hemp
Museum, however, is open every day until 23:00. If you
walk down the Zeedijk toward the train station youll
also come across what could be the worlds oldest gay
and lesbian bar, Caf t Mandje. Taste a traditional
Dutch liqueur or spirit like jenever at De Ooievaar or
In de Olofspoort (closed Tuesdays) near the end of the
Zeedijk are both good choices. For excellent microbrews
visit Proeflokaal de Prael on Oudezijds Armsteeg.
Autumn 2014
Centrum
Amsterdam Centrum is the district that most of the city's
visitors want to see and it's also the place where most
people end up arriving. The Central Station is the city's
most renowned and popular transport hub and all of the
city centre lies before it. Centrum, as it's called, is actually
quite large, so you may want to use public transportation
to get around, but with a comfortable pair of trainers all
of its sights and sounds can be covered on foot. The infamous Red Light district with its bars and window shopping
is only a short walk across the square from the station as are
the Zeedijk with its restaurants and Chinatown. The world
famous belt of canals, or simply the Grachtengordel, is also
just a hop, skip and a jump from here not to mention the
Dam and Leidse Square (Leidseplein). The popular Jordaan
neighbourhood in the west is full of bohemian cafs, bars
and shops, while the Plantage area in the east is home to
some of the city's best attractions including the Artis Zoo
and the Hortus Botanical Gardens.
ARRIVING IN CENTRUM
If you're already in Centrum there's a good chance that you
arrived at the Central Station. From here you can take trams
No.1, 2 or 5 to the canals and Leidseplein. Trams No.13 and
17 will take you to the Jordaan, while tram No.9 will take
you to Rembrandtplein in the east and farther afield to the
Plantage area.
ACCOMMODATION
Centrum has it all from hostels to award-winning design
hotels, but rates can be obscenely high so book in advance.
CREAM OF THE CROP

INTERCONTINENTAL AMSTEL AMSTERDAM
Already a hotel in 1867, the building gracefully combines
antique interior design elements with modern conveniences, so you can enjoy regal surroundings without
feeling like your trapped in a museum where youre not
allowed to touch anything or to raise your voice. A health
club with a swimming pool is also at your disposal as well as
a restaurant, brasserie and bar.QI-8, Professor Tulpplein
1, tel. (+31) 206 22 60 60, amsterdam.intercontinental.
com. 79 rooms. PTJHA6UFLGK
DCWhhhhh
RENAISSANCE AMSTERDAM HOTEL
This luxurious five-star hotel, which is part of the Marriott
group, offers over 400 modern, tastefully decorated rooms
in the city centre only a five-minute walk from the Central
Station. Spread out over several buildings, the hotel was
completely renovated in 2009 and its accommodation includes all of the amenities one would expect from a fivestar hotel including king size beds, wireless internet access, climate control, large flat screen TVs and a few extras
like bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. .QA-1, Kattengat 1,
tel. (+31) 206 21 22 23, www.marriott.com. 402 rooms.
PJHAUFLGKDW hhhhh
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino
T Child-friendly
U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
UPMARKET
NH CARLTON AMSTERDAM
Youd have a tough time finding a more central hotel
than the NH Carlton, which is conveniently located near
the Flower Market and Amsterdams busiest shopping
street, the Kalverstraat. All rooms are equipped with
satellite TV, mini-bars, coffee/tea sets, phone, writing
desk, free wireless internet access, private bathrooms
and tasteful interiors. Deluxe rooms are more spacious
and boast a more modern-looking dcor. You can also
dine on Mediterranean cuisine at the in-house IlGirasole
restaurant.QB-3, Vijzelstraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 22 22 66,
www.nh-hotels.com. 218 rooms (standard from 161).
PJHAULGBKXW hhhh
BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS

HOTEL NOTTING HILL AMSTERDAM
Located on the edge of the city centre only a short walk
from Amsterdam Souths bustling De Pijp district, this stylish boutique hotel offers 67 comfortable rooms equipped
with LED TVs, climate control, wireless internet access, Nespresso machines, tea sets, bathrobes and slippers, safes
and private bathrooms as well as designer interiors in neutral beige and black colours. Its Brasserie Londen is also a
good place for a casual meal, but locals often visit for its
spectacular Notting Hill high tea. A terrace on the neighbouring canal is also available.QWesteinde 26, tel. (+31)
205 23 10 30, www.hotelnottinghill.nl. 67 rooms (doubles from 149). PAULGBKW hhhh
Explore the city centre on foot or on a bike
Centrum
BED & BREAKFAST
Crisp autumn day in Amsterdams Grachtengordel
MID-RANGE
AMSTERDAM HOUSE HOTEL EUREKA
If a lack of space isnt a problem for you, then Hotel Eureka is definitely a decent option for you and your pet they are most welcome and free of charge. Despite the
small bedrooms and bathrooms, the hotel does have its
positive aspects. This three-star hotel is situated in the
centre of Amsterdam overlooking the beautiful Amstel
River and is surrounded by great tourist attractions such as
Rembrandtplein and the famous Flower Market. A varied
breakfast menu is also available allowing guests to prepare their own omelettes.QG-7, s-Gravelandseveer 3 4, tel. (+31) 206 24 66 07, www.amsterdamhouse.com.
16 rooms (14 doubles 80 - 150, 2 triples 80 - 160).
iA6UGBKXW hhh
HOTEL AMSTELZICHT
This historic canal house built in 1659 has served as a hotel for quite some time but was completely renovated in
2012 to reflect the style and tastes of the modern, designconscious traveller. Although the reception area and staircases have largely retained their antique ambience, the
guest rooms have been thoroughly transformed into stylish rooms with brown wall-to-wall carpeting, beige furnishings and the odd magenta pillow or chair for a splash
of colour. .QAmstel 104, tel. (+31) 206 23 66 93, www.
hotelamstelzicht.com. 21 rooms (doubles/twin from
99, triples from 129, suites from 149, apartments
from 189). PAGW hhh
BUDGET
AMSTERDAM WIECHMANN HOTEL
If youre looking for a truly Dutch experience in Amsterdam this hotel is a good start. The Wiechmann Hotel has
been run by the same family for several generations and
is located on the beautiful Prinsengracht. Although the
old building is decorated accordingly, it doesnt have a lift
and the steep stairs might not be suitable for the elderly
or small children. Rooms are pleasantly decorated in the
same style and the house dog contributes to the familystyle ambience.QE-7, Prinsengracht 328 - 332, tel. (+31)
206 26 33 21, www.hotelwiechmann.nl. 37 rooms (doubles from 100). JA6GW hh
LA VIE EN ROSE B&B AND APARTMENTS

Conveniently located in an historic Amsterdam building
between the Central Station and Dam Square, La Vie en
Rose offers two beautifully decorated and affordably priced
apartments that include loads of modern amenities like flat
screen TV, stylish furniture and dcor, kitchenette and free
wireless internet access. Thankfully, many of the original
design features of the interiors have also been preserved
so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. Amsterdam has
some strange rules regarding its buildings, so a maximum
of only two people are allowed to stay in each apartment.
QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 90B, tel. (+31) 651 59
57 87, www.amsterdamapartmentlavieenrose.com. 2
rooms (2 apartments from 115). J6LNGW
HOSTELS
TOURIST INN
Were almost reluctant to tell you about this little gem, because its usually the place where we stay when we want
to save some cash in Amsterdam. Part hotel, part hostel,
the aptly named Tourist Inn offers clean recently renovated
singles, doubles and triples with flat screen TVs, wireless internet access, air conditioning and private bathrooms with
shower and hair dryer or slightly cheaper rooms with shared
toilets and showers. Six-bed dorms with clean bunk beds,
TVs, lockers and wi-fi are also a bargain and the shared toilet and shower facilities are clean and modern. Breakfast is
included in the price and four computers with internet access are available in the reception area for a small fee. Did we
mention that its a short walk from the Central Station?QA-1,
Spuistraat 52, tel. (+31) 204 21 58 41, www.tourist-inn.nl.
22 rooms (singles, doubles and triples from 60, dorm
beds 20 - 35/person). PAW
DUTCH PANCAKES
Although everyone knows that the Dutch cant get
enough stinky cheese, not everyone knows that theyre
also nuts about pannenkoeken (pancakes). Now, before you get too excited, we must warn you that you
shouldnt expect a giant stack of flapjacks smothered
in butter and maple syrup if you order pancakes at a
local restaurant. In fact, pancakes here often resemble a
huge omelette filled with all manner of toppings from
savoury ingredients like bacon, cheese and mushrooms
to more conventional delights like fruit and berries. You
should also bear in mind that the dark syrup on offer
at traditional Dutch pancake joints isnt even remotely
related to the maple tree. Its actually a strong, bitter
kind of treacle (molasses) thats definitely an acquired
taste, especially if youre expecting sweet, golden maple syrup. The Dutch also love their poffertjes, which are
tiny silver dollar-sized spongy pancakes that are often
dusted with powdered sugar.
Autumn 2014
11
Centrum
RESTAURANTS
Amsterdam Centrum has plenty of tourist traps, but the
following is a tiny selection of some of our favourite restaurants. For hundreds more restaurant reviews visit www.
amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
ASIAN
WAGAMAMA
Although a little on the expensive side, Wagamama,
which is part of an international chain of Asian fusion/ramen bars, offers expertly presented meals that will satisfy
even the largest of appetites. A noodle soup can cost as
much as 16, but thats all part of the experience of dining
at a trendy ramen bar. You also pay for the quick and attentive service and a great location near Leidseplein. The
only disadvantage is that youre often seated quite close to
strangers around you, but that can also be a positive thing
depending on your point of view.QF-8, Max Euweplein
10, tel. (+31) 205 28 77 78, www.wagamama.nl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12 - 16) and Zuidplein 12. PTJAUVGBKS
BAGELS
BAGELS & BEANS
Were not exactly sure where the beans fit into the equation, but if you like plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything,
cinnamon and even gluten-free (whatever that means)
bagels with a wide variety of toppings from hummus,
tuna salad or Parma ham to traditional cream cheese,
then head over to this popular chain of bagel bistros. You
can also drink freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices,
although, try as we might, we cant seem to find the appeal of cucumber juice. You can also take advantage of
free wi-fi.QA-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206 38 07
88, www.bagelsbeans.nl. Open 09:01 - 17:32, Sat, Sun
09:58 - 18:02. Also at Keizersgracht 504, tel.(+31) 203 30
55 08; Haarlemmerdijk 122, tel. (+31) 203 30 41 02. Open
08:59 - 17:31, Sun 10:02 - 17:01; Ferdinand Bolstraat 70,
tel. (+31) 206 72 16 10. Open 08:31 - 17:32, Sun 08:58 18:01; and many other locations. (5). ASW
BARBECUE
CAF DE KLOS
Although this place looks like an authentic Dutch brown
bar with solid wood furniture, wood panelling and imitation Dutch master paintings collecting dust on their
chunky frames, the staff assured us that its actually a
restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of all kinds. Order huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken, sirloins,
t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to make
a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is also on
draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde Suster,
which is owned by the same people.QF-7, Kerkstraat 41 43, tel. (+31) 206 25 37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. Open
16:00 - 24:00. (12 - 22).
Hollands legendary fast food vending machines
CAFETERIAS
DE BIJENKORF KITCHEN
Pass some of the worlds biggest brands like Vuitton and
Gucci on your way to the top floor of this posh department
store to reach De Bijenkorf Kitchen an upmarket cafeteria
that offers a stylish, modern interior and views of Amsterdam. The Asian stand cooks stir fries to order, the seafood
stand boasts oysters and sushi, you can order pizzas and
pasta at the Italian counter and steaks at the grill. A muchcoveted outdoor terrace with limited seating is connected
to the bar area.QA-2, Dam 1, tel. 900 09 19 (toll call),
www.debijenkorf.nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00
- 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. (5 - 12). AB
CHINESE
NEW KING
We were a little apprehensive when we encountered New
King, because unlike so many other restaurants in Chinatown, this one actually looks stylish with light coloured
wood panelling, red banners of Asian comic book characters eating food and dark brown wallpaper that looks like
snakeskin. Thankfully, this wasnt a case of interior design
prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and Indonesian
cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingly reasonable, too! Order whole fish, steaming bowls of seafood,
crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic
dishes like frog legs. Cocktails and a decent wine list are
also available.QB-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25 21
80, www.newking.nl. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (12 - 18). A
ORIENTAL CITY
This upmarket Chinese restaurant occupies three floors of
a, unmistakable corner Red Light district building and offers expensive, yet delicious cuisine, an extensive wine list
and staff in either silk shirts or black bowties depending on
their gender. Aquariums with exotic fish serve as dcor as
well as jade model ships and of course the ubiquitous red
lanterns seen at most Asian eateries. Order anything from
whole fish dishes with the heads and tails attached and
sauted scallops to classic crispy suck dishes. Many of the
clientele wear suits and formal wear, but you dont have to.
QB-2, O.Z. Voorburgwal 177 - 179, tel. (+31) 206 26 83
52, www.oriental-city.nl. Open 11:30 - 22:30. (15 - 28).
Centrum
COFFEE & TEA
FAST FOOD
QUARTIER PUTAIN
In the heart of the Red Light district among drunk stag parties and leering tourists, youll find a coffee venue with a
tempting French name. If you love the brown stuff or need
it to jump start your day then youve come to right place as
Quartier Putai sells coffee from around the globe. The caf
itself is divided into two floors. The upstairs is a breeding
ground for future musical talents, while the ground floor is
filled with comfortable seats and cosy niches. In keeping
with its musical atmosphere each patron is given a coin for
the jukebox after theyve ordered a coffee.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 4, www.quartierputain.nl. PTJAW
GRILL STEAKHOUSE MAMA

The exalted name is a little optimistic and the faux brick walls
arent fooling anyone, but the shoarma is pretty good, even
at a steep 5 for a small pita. That said, the sauce is truly spicy
and the staff are constantly in motion cutting meat and serving inebriated pub crawlers in the middle of the night.QF-8,
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 56, tel. (+31) 206 20 48 28. Open
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. (5 - 7). S
DINERS
TEDDYS CORNER
This no frills diner and bar serves up anything from salads
and burgers to steaks and lamb chops, but we get the feeling that most people pop in for a big breakfast with coffee
or tea regardless of the time of day. Although it also offers
beer and cocktails, its more of a place to recharge your batteries and to line your stomach before returning to other
Red Light bars and coffeeshops on this infamous street.QB1, Warmoesstraat 45, tel. (+31) 204 23 21 67. (7 - 15). A
DUTCH
OUD HOLLAND
Housed in a 17th-century building, whose once impressive
faade is now marred by a glass addition, Oud Holland is a
traditional restaurant that probably looked the same when
Arthur Frommer wrote his first guides to Europe back in the
1950s. The interior certainly looks the part with dark wood
furnishings and kitschy red and white plaid lampshades everywhere. You can experience the whole range of Dutch cuisine here but one cant help shake the feeling that the often
photocopied menu offered in several languages was created with tourists in mind.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
105, tel. (+31) 204 22 90 18, www.restaurantoudholland.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 20). A
T LIEVERDJE
This unpretentious caf and bar named after a famous
statue of a small boy located around the corner serves up
classic homemade Dutch dishes like stamppot, haring and
apple pie as well as Indonesian-style fried rice for affordable prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers and
the locally made De Prael brew are also at your disposal
but bear in mind that the resident cat might choose to sit
in your lap if youre male. Apparently, it doesnt like women
or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior with large
brass candelabras and even an antique chandelier guarantee a cosy stay here, but remember that during peek
eating times youll have to sit at the bar if you only want a
drink. Tables are reserved for hungry patrons. QA-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 625 58 11 56, www.tlieverdje.nl. Open
11:00 - 21:00. (6 - 12). B
MANNEKEN PIS
Named after the Belgian capitals favourite little urinating rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has
become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-fried
potatoes in three sizes for 2.50, 3.50 and 4.50 and one
of 16 sauces is included in the price from traditional mayonnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian peanut satay condiment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel and kroket can also
be had.QA-1, Damrak 41, www.mannekenpis.nl. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (3 - 5). S
ICE CREAM
BEN & JERRYS
Two and half euros for what looks like a tiny shot glass of ice
cream seems like a big expense, and it is, but the huge variety of mouth-watering flavours with clever names are nearly
impossible to resist. Sundaes, splits, waffles and cones are
all available in this famous American chain of fair trade ice
cream parlours decorated in bright pastel colours and purple
seats.QF-7, Leidsestraat 90, tel. (+31) 206 24 02 36, www.
benjerry.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Also
at Stationsplein 11, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 68. AS
METROPOLITAN DELI
Although most venues on Warmoesstraat lure you inside
with large beer selections, erotic gadgets or a whiff of pot
smoke, Metropolitan Deli tempts passers-by with a flowing chocolate fountain and a huge display of freshly made
gelato in dozens of flavours from pistachio and hazelnut
to cheesecake and even stroopwafel (caramel cookie). You
can also buy gourmet chocolates and chocolate flavoured
beer! Recommended.QWarmoesstraat 135, tel. (+31)
203 30 19 55, www.metropolitandeli.nl. Open 09:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. AS
A meal in Amsterdams Chinatown is an absolute must
Autumn 2014
13
Centrum
INDIAN
ITALIAN
GANDHI
Gandhi is a top-notch Indian restaurant with attentive staff
who serve tasty traditional Indian curry dishes in a room
with no windows and hardly any decorations. However,
the real surprise is its tacky location only a five-minute
walk from Central Station. You could easily walk past this
hidden treasure, so look for a sauna next to the entrance.
Try the combination menus, which are good value for
money.QA-1, Damrak 54, tel. (+31) 206 38 32 22, www.
indianrestaurantgandhi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (13 - 17). PTJAGK
PASTA E BASTA
Pasta e Basta is a Dutch institution. Owner Hans Duijf takes
pride in his singers who entertain diners with high-class
performances of opera classics and contemporary songs
that really get the audience involved. The food can be
described as Italian pasta dishes with a big selection of
anti pasta under the lid of the baby grand piano! A comprehensive wine list is also available. Many music stars
and personalities have played here for free on their visits
to Amsterdam including Bill Clinton, the late Luciano Parvarotti, who described this restaurant as his European favourite, and George Benson, who provided a free concert
for loads of gobsmacked diners.QG-8, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 8, tel. (+31) 204 22 22 22, www.pastaebasta.nl.
Open 18:00 - 24:00. Menu: 37. JAK
INDONESIAN
PELANGI
This candlelit Indonesian restaurant offers great views of
Rembrandtplein and an extensive list of traditional dishes as
well as a variety of so-called rice tables starting at around
30 for two people. If youre a novice you can always choose
the daily special, which usually includes a curry, a satay,
veggies in sauce and, of course, rice. The interior isnt exactly noteworthy and we were charged a whopping 3 for a
small cola, which seemed a bit steep. Had the staff not been
so helpful and polite we might have caused a ruckus. At that
price we could have ordered a beer!QB-3, Rembrandtplein 16, tel. (+31) 204 20 06 70. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12 - 18). AB
INTERNATIONAL
BLINQ
Trendy BlinQ is a restaurants that also double as a club
and cocktail bar in the evening. Despite its stylish aspirations its actually a nice spot to have an affordable lunch
or an intimate dinner in the evening. The terrace is also a
big plus but the cranky staff seem to have more important things to do than to attend to their patrons so you
might have to wait a while to get a drink. At the weekend
youll have to queue up outside and pass BlinQs face
control.QF-7, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 5, tel. (+31)
203 30 40 00, www.blinq-amsterdam.nl. Open 10:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (19 - 24). JABX
CAF PROUST
Popular with local 20- and 30-somethings, this stylish
caf is decorated with blackboard art (youll see what we
mean when you get there) and two long mirrors on opposite walls that create an odd optical illusion, but its most
striking feature is the huge lamp hanging above the bar
that looks like a revolver. You can order a good cocktail
or a tasty brew, but the menu is also worth a look and offers such interesting dishes as lamb burgers with harissa
sauce. Caf Proust also has a small terrace but you might
want to reserve a spot ahead of time or get here early.
QE-4, Noordermarkt 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 45, www.
goodfoodgroup.nl/proust.html. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (10 - 18). B
LUNCHROOM
DE BAKKERSWINKEL
This long, narrow industrial-looking space with pipes and
wires hanging from the ceiling provides a bright, refined
atmosphere illuminated by a number of skylights. You can
expect classical music, a fresh flower on each table and
gourmet sweets, breakfasts, lunch and a whole menu
dedicated to high tea. Meals are prepared behind a long
counter to the right side thats covered in delicious pies
and cakes. The Bakers Shop is by no means cheap, but
style and taste dont come for free. Two small tables are
also available out on the street when the weather cooperates.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 69, tel. (+31) 204 89 80 00,
www.debakkerswinkel.nl. Open 08:00 - 17:30, Mon
10:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. AB
DE BUREN
Although officially a lunch place, De Buren is also a good
stop for a quick and filling breakfast. With a fresh cup of
Ethiopian coffee and a dirt cheap uitsmijter, daily stress and
the unpredictable Dutch weather seem easier to handle.
Dont expect anything fancy here, just delicious sandwiches and rolls. Service with a genuine smile is another
attractive draw.QI-8, Sarphatistraat 45, tel. (+31) 203 20
85 52, www.lunchroomdeburen.nl. Open 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. TJNKS
Time for breakfast (or an afternoon brunch)
Centrum
STEAKHOUSES
Taste delicious Dutch cheese at the Noordermarkt every Saturday
PANCAKES
THE PANCAKE BAKERY
Although this cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tourist trap, especially given its close location to the throngs
of visitors at the Anne Frank House, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes and omelettes and thats pretty
much it. In other words, a very simple, yet popular concept. Each of its marble-topped tables has a big ceramic
bucket of local syrup with a wooden spoon as well as a
container of powdered sugar, the walls are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia and the low timber ceilings are simply charming, but the aroma of pancakes on the griddle
can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order them
with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cinnamon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury.
QE-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206 25 13 33, www.
pancake.nl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15).
QUICK EATS
AMARYLLES
Located on the same canal as the Flower Market, this small
caf offers a little bit of everything from full English breakfasts around the 10 mark and burgers with fries to classic
Dutch peasant food like uitsmijter, pea soup with sausages
and plenty of pancakes for surprisingly reasonable prices.
Half a dozen small tables line the sidewalk out front where
you can sip a German Warsteiner brew or a morning cup
of Joe.QB-3, Singel 540, tel. (+31) 206 22 49 47. Open
09:00 - 18:00. (6 - 12). AB
ROOFTOP CAF
Although you shouldnt expect haute cuisine, this caf
is located on the rooftop terrace of one of Amsterdams
most unusual buildings - Science Center NEMO. You can
order sausage rolls, hot dogs, sandwiches with tuna, ham,
eggs or cheese or sample one of four day-glow coloured
slush puppy drinks, while admiring an amazing view of
the city centre. Beer and wine is also available as well as
ice cream, but bear in mind that youll have to climb up
some stairs to get there, unless you want to buy a ticket
to the museum.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32
33, www.e-nemo.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon.
(2 - 4). AB
SAINT MORRIS
Although the food is fine and the service is polite, when
youre this close to the Red Light districts main canal you
somehow always get the feeling that youre about to be
fleeced. You can order the steak and spare ribs specials
that probably lured you inside, but the staff are keen to
point out better, more expensive, options once you sit
down. The foyer area is meant to look like a chapel, which
is no doubt some kind of homage to the restaurants
namesake St. Morris, but the rest of the half cellar is in
standard steakhouse style with lots of chunky wooden
furniture.QB-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 163, tel. (+31)
204 22 73 13, www.saintmorris.nl. Open 16:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (12 - 20). A
THAI
BIRD
This Thai restaurant was one of the first ethnic eateries to
open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims
to prepare authentic meals that are even better than the
stuff youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure,
but it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve
some of the best fresh green and red curries you can get
in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The
interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights
mixed with plastic Buddhas cant spoil a truly satisfying
meal at Bird.QB-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14
42, www.thai-bird.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 17).
PTJAGKS
UITSMIJTER: A CLASSIC DISH

If youre in a caf and cant
decide what to eat, just
do as the locals do and
order the uitsmijter (pronounced outs-may-ter).
This is Hollands contribution to world comfort and breakfast food and is on the
menu of nearly every caf worth its salt in the Netherlands. Although presentation varies from place to
place, its basically two or three fried eggs sunny side up
served on slices of bread with ham and melted cheese.
Some of the swankier establishments in town will also
offer gourmet cheeses, homemade bread and roast
beef or prosciutto instead of ham with a side salad, but
this classic Dutch staple is essentially an open-faced
egg sandwich. Although its usually a huge meal, its
often one of the cheapest items on the menu, which
is perhaps why its also so popular with frugal locals.
In case youre wondering, uitsmijter means bouncer or
someone who throws people out of clubs, because it
was once considered the ideal meal to chow down on
before crashing after a long night out.
Autumn 2014
15
Centrum
TIBETAN
TIBET RESTAURANT
Despite its uninspired name, the Tibet Restaurant offers a truly diverse selection of Himalayan specialities and even some
politically incorrect Chinese Sichuan dishes. The menu also
provides plenty of inane comments about the food that are
meant to be funny, but unfortunately come up a little short in
the humour department, but since our sizzling pork was truly
delicious and spicy, well take those comments at face value
in the whimsical spirit that they were written.QB-1, Lange
Niezel 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 11 37, www.tibet-restaurant.nl.
Open 15:00 - 24:00. (10 - 16). A
TURKISH
GLLOGLU
Since 1871 Gllolu has used its secret family recipes to
create wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anatolias most famous treat. The exquisite flavour of these recipes have become so beloved that Gllolu has the honour of calling itself the biggest baklava baker in the world
with establishments in dozens of countries including Libya. You can also enjoy other pastries, pies and cakes and
all can be enjoyed with real Turkish coffee. The restaurant,
caf and shop is tastefully decorated with a mixture of European and Ottoman features.QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat
7, tel. (+31) 203 20 42 00, www.gulluoglu.nl. Open 09:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. JKS
UPMARKET RESTAURANTS
&SAMHOUD PLACES
Israeli chef Moshik Roth has brought the fascinating world
of molecular gastronomy to the Oosterdokseiland. Although a three- or six-course meal will cost you roughly
the same as a one-night stay at a fancy Amsterdam hotel,
this chic hotspot is a must for true foodies. If you appreciate good food, but not the price tag then reserve a spot
in the lounge, which has a much more affordable menu.
Did we mention that &Samhoud Places has two Michelin
stars?QG-4, Oosterdokskade 5, tel. (+31) 202 60 20 94,
www.samhoudplaces.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue
18:30 - 01:00, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (threecourse meal 130). AL
BITTER... BALLS?
The name bitterballen, or
bitter balls, conjures up all
kinds of images and not
entirely wholesome ideas
from sour edibles hardly fit
for consumption to a sex
toy you might find in the
Red Light district. In fact, these deep-fried morsels of
God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine and are
on offer in nearly every caf throughout the country.
Youll see refined people in suits gulping down these
breadcrumb encrusted snacks at gallery openings just
as often as you see construction workers slowly chewing them with a beer after a days work. Why slowly you
might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat, parsley,
onion, spices and other mystery ingredients is often
served at a temperature usually only seen in magma
chambers beneath volcanoes. This always creates interesting facial expressions, unusual sucking sounds and
the inevitable grasping for any cold liquid available. If
youre too scared to try this national treat, watch our
video at www.inyourpocket.com/Netherlands/Amsterdam/Restaurants. If you do decide to give it a go, then
dont forget to dip it in some tasty Dutch mustard.
VEGETARIAN
LIBRIJE ZUSJE
Reservations are absolutely essential at Librije Zusje. The
same people who brought you the famous vegetarian restaurant with Michelin stars in Zwolle have exported the
concept to the posh premises of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel.
The interior is what you would expect from a hotel chain
such as this, a delicate mix of corn yellow comfy seats and
tables covered in fine white linens, which blend in perfectly with the turquoise blue walls. It also offers views of
the biggest courtyard garden in the city and the special
chefs vegetarian menu is a mix of seemingly unrecognisable substances that come together like a symphony in
your mouth.QG-7, Herengracht 542-556, tel. (+31) 207
18 46 00, www.waldorfastoria.hilton.com. Open 07:00 22:00. Vegetarian menu: 86/person. JABXW
VIETNAMESE
The busy tasting room at Brouwerij t IJ
VIETNAM RESTAURANT
Although it offers plenty of Chinese dishes like Peking
duck and egg foo yung, the restaurant with the boring
name and interior also offers Vietnamese classics like pho
soup and bun thom thit nuong cha gio which really isnt as
complicated as it sounds. Its basically vermicelli with roast
pork, shrimp, spring rolls and lettuce served in a big bowl
with a vinegar chilli sauce on the side. Bear in mind that
some of the noodle dishes, like the one just mentioned,
are served cold.QB-1, Zeedijk 57, tel. (+31) 206 38 62 34,
www.restaurant-vietnam.nl. (8 - 18). A
Centrum
CAFS
CLASSIC CAFS
Amsterdam caf culture is simply fantastic. You can sit in

an historic establishment thats over 100 years old or sip a
special coffee poured by a professional barrista.
CAF DE ZWART
This tiny, classic old world caf boasts an inticate, multicoloured tile floor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet
table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed
gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can order coffee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian
draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwiches are also on offer as well as a large outdoor terrace
with great views of the hubbub on the square. Given its
prime location, Caf de Zwarts food and drink are surprisingly cheap.QA-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24 65 11.
Open 09:00 - 01:00. B
CAF KOBALT
Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night cocktails,
this incredibly popular eating and drinking establishment is located in a medieval building with, rough, worn
floors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typically
gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know that a
table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and even
in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy affordable Dutch
and international cuisine not to mention a good selection
of draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can
also listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays
from 17:00.QE-4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59, www.
cafekobalt.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB
CAF VAN ZUYLEN
This quiet, yet popular caf offers a bright interior with
great views, wood tables and hardwood floors as well as
wood benches along the walls so you can get to know
your neighbours better. Although Van Zuylen serves sandwiches and toasties we recommend its brownies, cakes or,
better yet, one of its breakfasts from a standard continental to fried eggs and bacon. In the evening locals come for
wine, cocktails and draught beer until after midnight. The
caf is actually split in two parts, so if one is too crowded
just try the one next door.QA-2, Torensteeg 4 - 8, tel.
(+31) 206 39 10 55, www.cafevanzuylen.nl. Open 10:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (5 - 12). A
CAF WHEELS
This casual caf decorated in the Dutch fashion, meaning
its tabletops are covered with rugs, is a good place to take
a break for a cheap breakfast cooked by its friendly owner
who often sings as he fries eggs in the kitchenette. Drink
a coffee or something stronger with a magazine to the
tempting sound of sizzling bacon or have a seat outside
on this quiet shopping street. Homemade burgers, BLTs
and other sandwiches as well as a soup of the day are also
available.QF-6, Wolvenstraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 22 86 73.
Open 11:00 - 19:00. (5 - 9). BW
GEORGE DELI U.S.A.
This impressive bistro not far from Rembrandtplein is located above a posh supermarket and it offers a black and
white interior that includes a huge counter bar and tabletops made of marble. You can drop by any time of the day
and order great breakfasts like eggs Benedict or Florentine,
freshly made sandwiches from classic Ruebens and BLTs to
lox and bagels or spend a little more money and splurge
on oysters (in season) with a glass of Champagne or shot
of Grey Goose vodka. Gourmet coffee and are also on the
menu.QH-6, Utrechtsestraat 17, tel. (+31) 203 30 01 71,
www.cafegeorge.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. (5 - 10). A
CAF SCHILLER
Caf Schiller is an average sized eating and drinking establishment with a big history and a favourite among young
and old Amsterdammers, as well as a hang out for the citys
fourth estate the stingiest lot of tipplers youll find, unless
of course theyve already has few. Old portraits of venerated
men adorn its elegant walls, yet the atmosphere is friendly,
relaxed and open. The whole range of IJ microbrews is available in bottles and the wine list is simple and within reach of
average citizens and lowly travel writers. The cuisine is more
upmarket and you can try suckling pig, cod fillet stuffed
with oysters or fillet mignon for roughly 20.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 98 46, www.cafeschiller.
nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00,
Sun 13:00 - 01:00. (15 - 20). A
DE KAT IN DE WIJNGAERT
This casual caf and bar is often full at the weekend when
many a local comes in for a big breakfast, a beer and the
days paper. Seating at one of half a dozen worn wooden
tables is limited so singles are encouraged to belly up
to the long, red granite counter for food and drink or
a cup of coffee and some pleasant conversation. Try
one of its toasted sandwiches or a Dutch fry up.QD-4,
Lindengracht 160HS, tel. (+31) 206 22 45 54, www.
dekatindewijngaert.nl/. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. (7 - 12). B
Youll have to share local cafs with a cat or two
Autumn 2014
17
Centrum
NIGHTLIFE
BARS
Once again, the following is but a fraction of the nightlife

reviews that weve covered in Amsterdam Centrum. For a
full list of pubs, clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as
videos visit www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
BIBLOS
It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of
the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls
at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or
so licence plates from around the globe, currency both
young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles,
bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else
can we say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with
both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of
beers and cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular.
QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open
21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00.
. AX
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
CASA ROSSO
This iconic live sex theatre provides continuous action
for as long as you like. The programme varies over the
course of the evening and ranges in theme from simple
strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to
lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact, it seems that Casa
Rosso provides something for all of the popular fetishes
including a husky woman so as not to neglect the chubby
chasers among us.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106
- 108, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50
including four drinks. A
THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB
Downstairs for 50 you can drink all you can swill for one
hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented women
who can do all kinds of interesting things with ping pong
balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club,
which has a, shall we say, more dignified atmosphere
where guests pay 10 admission to sit by the pole where
beautiful women show their moves in various states of
undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.
bananenbar.nl. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 03:00. Admission: bar 45, club 10.
RED LIGHT STREETS

Dont be one of those tourists fresh off the train that asks
the nearest local where the
Red Light District is located.
Its not hard to find so just walk
straight down the Damrak, as
most people do, and make a
left at the Grasshopper. Then
just keep walking pretty much
straight ahead until you hit Oudezijds Voorburgwal and, one
canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is the
main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex theatres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old Church)
is also chock full of working girls and you should definitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg,
Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although
not as popular with tourists, theres also a street full of
red lights between the Spuistraat and the Singel on
Oude Nieuwstraat.
BLACK TIGER BAR

This place has little to do with tigers save the cheesy
stripes painted on the ceiling high above the bar. Huge
murals of Bowie, Bono and Lenon cover one wall while
Sinead, Lennox and Grace Jones occupy the space behind
the bartenders. You can order a Heineken and smoke cigarettes to your hearts content while listening to contemporary and classic rock music, which is a welcome change
to some of the crap played at other bars in the area. Pool
tables and a coffeeshop are available downstairs, but wed
just like to remind you that theres a huge painting of
Grace Jones here. Talk about your Red Light fetishes!QB-1,
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 23, tel. (+31) 206 22 72 46,
www.blacktiger-bar.com. X
CAF DE KOE
We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a
good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day
or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy
patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a friends
house party except your best buddy probably doesnt
have a giant white mural of a cow in his living room or
glittering wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar.
Alternative rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here,
which is a good thing, but the tempting smells from the
restaurant below can bring on a premature case of the
munchies.QE-7, Marnixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25
44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00. A
CAF EMMELOT
This little pubs popularity is no doubt due to its good
location on a major Red Light thoroughfare near some
of the best window shopping, although you could make
the argument that the loud 1980s music really brings em
in. Others probably appreciate that the smoking ban isnt
enforced here, but we personally only came for the cheap
late night drinks and the pool table. In any event, Emmelot
also provides a big TV and if you beg the bar staff they
might even put on a football match. Ladies need to ask for
the key to crapper at the bar, but the mens trough is open
to all.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 52, tel. (+31) 206 22
16 26. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BX
Centrum
CAF HEFFER
Although lots of establishments claim to be grand cafs
in Holland, Heffer truly lives up to this illustrious title. Porcelain beer taps, ceramic jenever jugs, antique tile floors
and gigantic chandeliers hanging from high ceilings make
this elegant place a favourite among beer connoisseurs
who need a break from dusty brown bars. The selection of
brews is excellent, but many people come for the delicious
cuisine and great desserts. Live sports are often shown on
the big screens.QA-1, Oudebrugsteeg 7, tel. (+31) 204 28
44 88, www.heffer.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 03:00. (5 - 15). A
WEBER
Weber is billed as a club/bar for an alternative crowd loth
to listen to pop and techno music on their night out and
wed have to agree. At the weekend its packed, quite
stuffy and quite hard to get into and even harder to get
out. New Wave and indie music icons line one wall, while
the other boasts three portraits of American astronauts
and what appears to be the head of a water buffalo. Alternative indeed. Seating on faux leopard skin seats in the
cellar is often easier to find.QE-8, Marnixstraat 397, tel.
(+31) 206 22 99 10, www.hotelweber.nl. Open 19:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. A
BEER BARS
DE BIERFABRIEK
Watch out! Youre bound to end up completely hammered, slipping and sliding across the peanut shelllittered floor, especially if you choose to sit at a table
with your own beer tap at this large minimalist space
inspired by American bars. The Beer Factory offers the
simplest of menus that basically consists of mouthwatering grilled chicken and beer, lots of beer, which
can be both its strongest and weakest selling point
depending on your point of view. In a nutshell, peanut lovers, beer aficionados and those who enjoy the
simple things in life will definitely have a good time
here.QA-2/3, Rokin 75, tel. (+31) 205 28 99 10, www.
bierfabriek.nl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 23:00. (14 - 19). PJAK
IN DE WILDEMAN
Just look at the chalkboard above the door to see whats
on draught at one of Amsterdams best beer bars, which
is located in a former distillery. Even brew hounds like us
are a little overwhelmed in a place like this, but thankfully
the friendly staff can suggest one of the nearly 20 beers
available on draught or perhaps one of the 200 brews In
de Wildeman offers in bottles. If youre still not convinced,
the bartender will pour you a small sample to taste before you order. The spacious interior consists of the usual
wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled floor and
a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and
cheese to frites are also available.QA-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel.
(+31) 206 38 23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Open 12:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
LONDON CALLING
Every year the Paradiso Club
hosts this biannual event in
the spring and autumn to
showcase up-and-coming
bands that you may not have
heard of, but which will no
doubt be renowned artists in the future, if not household
names. You can check out the latest edition of this alternative rock extravaganza on October 31 and November
1, but be sure to buy your tickets as soon as possible as
concerts sell out quickly. Previous participants of London
Calling have included Florence & the Machine, Franz
Ferdinand and Bloc Party. Visit www.londoncalling.nl for
more information.
BILLIARDS & POOL

THE POOL HOLE
This partially sunken cellar offers half a dozen tables and a
laid back Bohemian atmosphere with good tunes on the
sound system and lots of candlelight.QA-3, Voetboogstraat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www.thepoolhole.com.
Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB
BREW PUBS
BROUWERIJ T IJ
You really have to want to find this place. Thankfully,
we did, but our thirst for new brews is, of course, the
stuff of legends. Just look for the giant windmill about
a 20-minute walk northwest of the Artis Zoo along the
Hoogte Kadijk to find this microbrewery offering at least
six unique beers including something akin to a pilsner
as well as the spicy (their words) Columbus, which has
an alcohol content of 9%. The tasting room is functional
and doesnt offer much decoration or seating which is
why most people choose to imbibe at the picnic tables
outside. Beers are remarkably cheap, but only snacks are
available so you might want to pace yourself. Visit its
website for information on brewery tours and merchandise.QK-5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 17 86, www.
brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00 - 20:00. BS
PROEFLOKAAL DE PRAEL
Hidden in a narrow alley youll find the tasting room of
the De Prael microbrewery. Sample all of the companys
beers in an atmosphere thats too hip and positively overwhelming to describe. Three levels of old mismatched
furniture, white tiles, faux Persian rugs, wooden tables and
beer memorabilia await you in a space thats industrial,
old-fashioned and modern all at once, not to mention the
actual brewery itself visible behind a glass wall. Good pub
grub is also on the menu and rock tunes dominate the
soundtrack.QB-1, Oudezijds Armsteeg 26, tel. (+31) 204
08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. A
Autumn 2014
19
Centrum
BROWN BARS
CAF BRANDON
This classic brown bar is popular with both young and old,
but tourists are seldom seen here. Perhaps its the lack of a
TV or the whiff of cigarette smoke that discourages them
from entering. Maybe the sight of rugs as tablecloths is
off-putting. In any case, its a good place to meet locals,
especially in the evening when it fills up, and the location
is picturesque to say the least.QE-5, Keizersgracht 157,
tel. (+31) 654 34 71 36. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. JX
CAF DE DOELEN
Theres sand on the floor, stained glass Tiffany-style lamps
hang from the ceiling, large mason jars of nuts and marinated vegetables are stored next to the beer taps and a
carved billy goats head watches everyone disturbingly
from its perch above the bar. On the other hand, De Doelen is firmly rooted in the 21st century. The coffee it serves
is produced by a fair trade collective in Bolivia, good alternative music emanates from the speakers and youre
not allowed to smoke inside. Needless to say, the Belgian
and Dutch beers on draught are quite good and its small
terrace on the canal is tempting to any passer-by in the
summer.QB-3, Kloveniersburgwal 125, tel. (+31) 206 24
90 23. Open 09:00 - 01:00. B
CAF DE ORANJERIE
Some would say that it looks like the place is falling apart,
but we think that it has lots of character. Sure, the old floor
is cracked in several places and giant bits of brown plaster
hang precariously from the ceiling, but Oranjerie has some
other unique features like an undulating wall thats covered with a layer of events posters so thick youre almost
afraid to sit next to it for fear it might crash down on you.
Lots of delicious brews are available on draught and in
bottles and a surprisingly good food menu is on offer after
18:00 that includes such tasty dishes as prawns in Pernod
and Ricard sauce.QD-4, Binnen Oranjestraat 15hs, tel.
(+31) 206 23 46 11, www.cafeoranjerie.nl. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. B
CAF SLIJTERIJ OOSTERLING

This wonderful bar has been serving thirsty Amsterdammers since 1877. A mix of young and elderly patrons play
cards, sip jenever or knock back strong Belgian and Dutch
double bocks here under the shadow of a huge antique ad
for Oosterling liquors at the far end. Huge barrels of spirits
decorate the right-hand wall and hang precariously over
the heads of the local clientele, but the bars most curious feature is the height of its hip-high bar with matching stools that look like a Tolkien-inspired tavern expecting Hobbits for happy hour.QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 140,
tel. (+31) 206 23 41 40. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00
- 20:00.
DE DRUIF
Although the building supposedly dates back to 1585, the
bar opened in 1631 making it one of Amsterdams oldest.
The views have changed, but in all likelihood the interior
hasnt experienced much tampering over the centuries
and thats the way that the middle-aged to elderly patrons
like it. Wooden jenever barrels are lined up behind the bar
and the wooden table in the back room is covered with
a carpet in keeping with Hollands oddball interior design
traditions. A few interesting draught beers are available in
addition to local spirits and you can puff away on a cigar or
a cigarette with the rest of the old salts here.QI-4, Rapenburgerplein 83, tel. (+31) 206 24 45 30. Open 15:00 24:00. Closed Tue. BX
ONDER DE OOIEVAAR (UNDER THE STORK)
Its obvious that this popular brown bar is run by a new
generation of beer and spirits purveyors. Its website is
advertised prominently on the front window, the interior is made of wood, but hardly worn, the clientele look
young and professional and smoking is strictly forbidden. An excellent selection of beer is available from
Trappist brews to local concoctions from the IJ microbrewery right here in Amsterdam. Cocktails, snacks, a TV
and even a dartboard are also available. In short, its a
cosy, modern 21st-century take on a classic concept.QH7, Utrechtsestraat 119, tel. (+31) 206 24 68 36, www.
onderdeooievaar.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 03:00, Sun 10:30 - 01:00. AB
CASINOS & GAMBLING
Amsterdam has scores of historic brown bars
HOLLAND CASINO
Located on the water between Leidseplein and the Rijksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating and
drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside youll
find well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and
loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focused
gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing battle
with machines with imaginative names like Rich Girls, King
Kong Cash, Outback Jack and Cash Fever. Convenient miniguides offering quick courses in gambling are available for
beginners who dont know the rules.QF-8, Max Euweplein 62, tel. (+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.nl.
Open 12:00 - 03:00. POJAUGKX
Centrum
CLUBS
BARKODE
This club which opened at the end of 2012 calls itself the
home base of techno, tech-house and deephouse and
thats actually no exaggeration. A visit to Barkode is going
back to basics on the three levels. You might expect the
club, which is the successor of what was once Club Home
near the Amstel to be bigger, but the atmosphere is intimate and clearly for lovers of international techno acts
with parties like Raven is Leven and Nachtcollege. If you
like your music to be bubbly and smooth, this is not the
place for you.QB-3, Wagenstraat 3-7, tel. (+31) 206 20
13 75, www.barkodeamsterdam.nl. Open 23:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
CLUB ESCAPE
Dont let the name fool you. When partying in Amsterdam, theres no real escaping this large collection of clubs,
unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986, Escape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The shrill
house music in Escape Club wont appeal to everyone,
but you can move on to four other separate areas: Deluxe,
Studio, Caff and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway because
youre caught between high school students and tourists?
For more class, you can always escape to Jimmy Woos.
QB-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11, www.
escape.nl. Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00,
Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE
NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY
Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house
club, but even we could sense that something special
was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens
through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the professional international DJs from as far away as the States. The
style is casual so dont worry about your trainers and leave
your D&G gear at home. This isnt exactly the place for the
superficial glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music.
Belly up to the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join
the action. Unlike the crowded faux clubs on Leidseplein
blasting Top 40, this place is the real deal.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugarfactory.
nl. Open Thu, Sun 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission: 5 - 12. AE
WINSTON KINGDOM
The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstraat, Amsterdams
notoriously naughty street, might make one think twice
about a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a
mistake. This dark graffiti-sprayed club actually offers decent dance nights and smashing live performances from
tomorrows big indie and electro acts like Justice and The
Gaslight Anthem who have both played here. Filled with
a surprising mix of lost tourists and music-loving locals,
this is an excellent escape from the WarmoesQA-2, Warmoesstraat 131, tel. (+31) 206 23 13 80, www.winston.
nl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission: 5 - 10. E
BOCK BEER FESTIVAL

What began as a small gathering of bock beer enthusiasts in a tiny Amsterdam
brown bar back in 1978
has evolved into a threeday brew festival that attracts beer aficionados from
around Europe. Organised
by PINT, an organisation that
promotes traditional Dutch
brews, this years festival will take place from October
24 - 26 in the Beurs van Berlage building (A-2, Damrak
277, www.beursvanberlage.nl). Admission will set you
back around 10 and each beer costs roughly 2.50. Last
years event was attended by over 10,000 beer fans and
live music will entertain festivalgoers, so youre guaranteed a good time. Opening times are as follows: Fri 17:00
- 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. For more information visit www.pint.nl.
COCKTAILS
BO CINQ
A regular spot for after-work drinks since 2009, Bo Cinq
sports a cosy, old brick-house living room look with pride.
For snacks and smoking, there are the custom-made chairs
in the two large and comfy lounge spaces, but dont forget
to enjoy Arabic and French specialities, too. Unexpectedly
stylish, the place is not for the budget minded among us,
but the high standards and friendly staff make Bo Cinq
worth a lounge session.QF-8, Prinsengracht 494, tel.
(+31) 206 22 06 82, www.bo5.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PJIK
DOOR 74
Talk about a hidden gem! Youll definitely walk past this place
a few times before realising theres a doorbell and a mysterious big black door worth noticing. But its not just a trendy
concept or an attempt to be hip. Inside youll be moved by
excellent drinks, including vintage Champagnes if you can afford them, attentive bar staff, free olives and nuts and a fun
speakeasy atmosphere. But dont forget to make a reservation
or youll have to queue up with all the others ringing the doorbell.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 74I, tel. (+31) 634 04 51 22,
www.door-74.com. Open 20:00 - 02:00. JA
SKYLOUNGE
One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam
can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar
on the 11th floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor
of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terrific view of
the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the staff
are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elaborate cocktail last quite a while.QG/H-4, Oosterdoksstraat
4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00, doubletree.hilton.com. Open
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. JABXW
Autumn 2014
21
Centrum
COMEDY CLUBS
LIVE MUSIC
BOOM CHICAGO
This is the only English-language comedy club in Amsterdam. Every night you can watch an evening of improv and
skits la Saturday Night Live performed by the citys funniest English-speakers in a theatre cleverly hidden by its
bar/restaurant. The admission is steep, but Amsterdams
American and British expats dont seem to mind as Friday
and Saturday nights usually sell out. You can also order
food and drink in the auditorium or just relax at the bar
downstairs and save yourself 20. Most performances
begin at 20:15, but visit its website for exact show times.
QF-7, Leidseplein 12, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 01, www.
boomchicago.nl. Admission: 20. AK
BOURBON STREET
This place actually looks a bit like a barn on the inside with
the exception of the musical instruments hanging from the
rafters and the chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the
weekend its hard to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies
assembled here to listen to blues and rock bands and the
bouncers dont seem to have any qualms about letting as
many people in as is physically possible, but at least youre
getting real entertainment for your 5 cover. If youd like to
use the toilet, try coming on a weeknight. Live music every
evening.QF-7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 23 34
40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 3 - 5. AE
IRISH PUBS
THE WATERHOLE
This is the kind of place where you would expect Jim Morrison (or someone like him) to be a regular. A true roadhouse. Its dark, loud and little bit smoky and every square
meter of wall space is covered either in booze bottles, rock
posters, graffiti or musical instruments. Listen to live music from folk and blues to rock nearly every night, shoot
pool on three tables or order a Bavaria draught, which is
nothing special, but plenty of good beers are available in
bottles. If you need another excuse to come, it also offers
a good happy hour until 21:00 on weeknights.QE-8, Korteleidsedwarsstraat 49, tel. (+31) 206 20 89 04, www.
waterhole.nl. Open 14:00 - 03:00. EBX
SLAINTE IRISH PUB

This Irish pub offers loads of red pleather booths, wood
tables and chairs and a decent selection of background
rock music, not to mention sports on a bunch of flat screen
TVs. Guinness and Murphys are its staple brews as well
as Heineken, which is 2 for 1 during happy hour. Where
Slainte truly excels is in its big breakfasts Irish, Dutch or
otherwise, especially the Hungry Man piles of bacon,
eggs, sausages and mushrooms on a sesame seed bun.
Take a shot of Jameson to flush out your arteries afterward.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 87, www.wittetulp.nl. Open
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. AB
JENEVER BARS
IN DE OLOFSPOORT
The historic building that houses this charming bar was
built in 1618 and replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate,
hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort offers over 200
different spirits including traditional and exotic local jenevers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade
cherry and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers wont be disappointed either as the Belgian Affligem Double on draught
is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms of it genre, this
one provides plenty of space for its patrons in two large
rooms, but make a note of its limited opening hours.QB1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18, www.
olofspoort.com. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 01:30, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. A
Enjoy a traditional spirit at a local jenever bar
PUBS
BALLS
This aptly named pub doesnt have much to do with
sports or, in our estimation, courageous men, but it does
offer three red felt pool tables on the second floor for 2
per game. On the ground floor you can expect a typically
Dutch brown bar with a not so typical copper-topped
bar with loads of stools. Bavaria beer is poured from billiard ball taps, but if youd like something better Duvel is
available in bottles. Rock music seems to rule the realm
here, but you can forgo the guitar chords in the smoking
room where you can watch sports on TV.QF-6, Reguliersdwarstraat 37. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
CAF DE TUIN
This place looks like some youngsters inherited the family bar and gave it a funky, contemporary upgrade. Floral
print wallpaper covers the far wall and if youre wondering why its so bright back there, its natural illumination
courtesy of a large skylight thats decorated with an art
nouveau-style painting of a mermaid. Staff place drinks on
raised platforms on the bar so as not to knock over the
huge stacks of glasses piled up next the to the beer taps.
A young and boisterous crowd listens to rock music here
at the weekend but its usually not too difficult to get a
table. IJ brewery beers are available.QD-5, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 45 59. Open 10:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. AB
Centrum
SPORTS BARS
PLAYERS
Youll find this cellar sports bar full of foreign men watching football on SkySports only a stones throw from Dam
Square. Occasionally youll even see a bored spouse or girlfriend faking enthusiasm for the match of day. The louderthan-life commentary and the giant photos of the terraces
almost make you believe that youre in the stadium. In any
event, its a great place to watch sports, its open very late
and it pours Guinness and Kilkenny brews, not to mention
pitchers of local Bavaria. Pool tables are also available.QA2, Warmoesstraat 170, tel. (+31) 204 20 05 63, www.
amsterdam-dam.com. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Fri 16:00 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. A
SATELLITE SPORTS CAF
If youre hungry for sports and, well, lots of food, then a
visit to this place with the boring, yet aptly chosen name
of Satellite Sports Caf might just be in order. The place is
decorated with flat screen TVs and not much else, which
means its clearly meant for gents with a hankering for
football and an appetite worthy of a Viking feast or Roman
banquet. Order enormous English breakfasts, pancakes,
pizzas, burgers and steaks or test your stomachs mettle
with its speciality: all-you-can-eat ribs for only 9.95. Shot
specials and pitchers of Heineken are available on two
floors on busy Leidseplein.QF-8, Leidseplein 11, tel. (+31)
204 27 25 29, www.satellitesportscafe.nl. Open 08:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AB
TEASERS
Its refined motto babes and beer curiously neglects to
mention sports. The beer part is obvious. Youre on the
Damrak so a pint of Heineken will set you back 6.50 and as
far as the babes go well give you a hint. That doesnt refer
to the clientele, but rather the beautiful waitresses in cheerleader outfits that take turns dancing on the bar. Teasers also
has about a dozen TVs showing football most of the day and
a wide range of pub food from English fry ups to steaks with
prices befitting the bars location. A small smoking room is
also available, but you have to pay 0.50 for piss-poor toilets.
QA-1, Damrak 35 - 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 84 11. ABX
WHISKY BARS
WHISKYCAF L&B
Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on offer
on the blackboard, take a deep breath and find your favourite scotch. The aptly named Whiskycaf has over 1500 different single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from around
the world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks
from obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in around the
central bar and ponder the possibilities, but dont worry.
You wont get dirty looks from the staff if you order one of
its excellent beers or wines. You can also attend one of its
frequent tastings.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82 - 84,
tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.nl. Open
20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
DOCUMENTARY FILM FEST

Each autumn documentary film
aficionados arrive in Amsterdam
to see the very latest films about
true life in various cultures around
the globe. This years documentaries will be screened from November 19 - 30 at the following locations: Path Tuschinski
(Reguliersbreestraat 26), Path de Munt (Vijzelstraat
15), De Brakke Grond (Nes 43), EYE (IJpromenade 1),
Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a), Podium Mozaek
(Bos en Lommerweg 191), Het Ketelhuis (Pazzanistraat
4) and Toomler (Breitnerstraat 2). You can buy tickets
online or at the festival box office at the Hotel NH
Caransa (G-7, Rembrandtplein 19). For more information visit www.idfa.nl.
WINE BARS
BUBBLES & WINES
In 2011 Bubbles & Wine was chosen as the best wine bar
in the city, so you can be fairly sure that youll find a cabarnet or pinot noir that suits you. Its wide selection of 400
bottles, of which 58 are served by the glass, is one of the
main attractions of this modern hot spot. The friendly staff
will also go out of their way to help you if you havent got
a clue what to order.QA-2, Nes 37, tel. (+31) 204 22 33 18,
www.bubblesandwines.com. Open 15:30 - 21:00, Sun
14:00 - 21:00. JAGW
MULLINERS WIJNLOKAAL
The first thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar, apart
from the refined atmosphere, the polished wooden bar and
the green leather benches that put one in mind of an English gentlemans club, was the smell of garlic. Escargot was
being prepared along with a myriad of other delicious tapas,
but Mulliners main focus is of course wine in all its lovely
incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from the months
specials on the blackboard and relax in this candlelit room
to the soothing sounds of classical music.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267, tel. (+31) 206 27 97 82, www.mullinerswijnlokaal.nl. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. A
VYNE
Although wine is still considered a poor relative of beer in
Dutch bars, this attitude has been slowly changing over
the past few years. Here, however, at the stylish and trendy
Vyne, that most ancient of alcoholic beverages takes centre
stage and the warm interior is reason enough for a visit. One
wall consists entirely of a lounge sofa, while the other side
of this long narrow room is a large depository for thousands
of bottles of wine. Running the length of the wine bar in the
middle of the room is a table with space enough for you
and 99 of your friends.QE-7, Prinsengracht 411, tel. (+31)
203 44 64 08, www.vyne.nl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. JA
Autumn 2014
23
Centrum
SIGHTSEEING
CANAL TOURS
From historic canal houses and royal palaces to world-class

museums, Amsterdams city centre has it all.
BLUE BOAT COMPANY

Exploring the UNESCO protected canals is often the highlight of any trip to Amsterdam so why not take in the citys
best sights in a 75-minute canal boat tour for only 15?
You can also take a 90-minute evening cruise (17.50)
and enjoy the view with a drink in your hand or spoil your
significant other with a luxurious 2.5-hour dinner cruise
(67.50). Visit its website for exact departure times and locations.QF-9, Stadhouderskade 30, tel. (+31) 206 79 13
70, www.blueboat.nl. (7 - 15). A
ESSENTIAL CENTRUM
THE OLD CHURCH (DE OUDE KERK)
Although no one knows for certain, its believed that Amsterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was erected
at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning of the 14th
century. The important edifice wasnt only used for religious
purposes and often served as a safe for precious documents, a treasury and also a homeless shelter. It was also
the place where couples had to register their intentions to
marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did in 1638. Shes
buried on the far end of the building opposite the entrance.
The historic monument and its wooden ceiling were on
the verge of collapse in the 20th century and it was finally
closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was again
opened to the public and is now one of the citys most visited attractions.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25
82 84, www.oudekerk.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00
- 17:00. Admission: adults 5, children 12 and under free.
BREWERY TOURS
BROUWERIJ DE PRAEL
This small microbrewery was originally supposed to be
called De Parel (the Pearl), but it turned out that someone
already had the rights to that name so they just changed
a couple of letters around and De Prael was born. You
can take a tour of the small premises in the Red Light district and learn about the brewing process followed by a
beer in its new tasting room which has a view of all the
brewing action. The owners also contribute to society by
employing people who have a tough time finding work
elsewhere and you can see them hard at work in the cellar
where one fills the bottles, another puts the cap on and a
third person attaches the labels. The brewery makes about
eight different beers and you can buy all kinds of De Prael
merchandise in its shop.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal
30, tel. (+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Step inside the Houseboat Museum on the Prinsengracht
KEYTOURS EXCURSIONS
This company organises more tours than there are tourists
in Amsterdam. Some sound a bit tacky like the Pizza Cruise
or Candlelight Cruise, but this is one of the better options
in town if you dont have a lot of time and youd like to save
some cash.QE-8, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel. (+31) 203 05
53 33, www.keytours.nl. Open 08:30 - 17:00. JA
CENTRUM ATTRACTIONS
MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM
Queues at the Amsterdam Tussauds can be a bit long at
lunchtime, but thats because everyone is photographed
before taking the lift upstairs where youll be entertained
by a light and sound show dedicated to the Golden Age
of the city in the 17th century. This is followed by a maze
of rooms featuring life size wax figures of your favourite
heads of state, actors, rock gods, artists and footballers.
Have your photo taken with the Dalai Lama, Gandhi, Madonna, Pablo Picasso or Winston Churchill. Youll no doubt
also be blown away by what a tiny pip-squeak Lenin was
or that Ronaldinhos teeth really are that big!QA-2, Dam
20, tel. (+31) 205 22 10 10, www.madametussauds.com.
Open 10:00 - 18:30. Admission: adults 19 - 22, children
5 - 15 years 14 - 18, children 4 and under free. Last admission at 17:30. AU
NEW
RED LIGHT SECRETS
Red Light Secrets is the latest attraction in Amsterdams
Red Light district and it has correspondingly long opening hours for late night window shoppers. In short, its essentially a museum dedicated to that oldest of professions
- prostitution - and is supposedly the only one of its kind
on the planet. A visit begins with a six-minute movie, with
a simple, yet intriguing theme, namely 24 hours in the Red
Light district. The next hour or so can be spent checking
out typical rooms where the trade was plied as well as
special S&M tools and lots of other interesting items and
information. The undisputed highlight of the exhibition is
the moment when youre allowed to sit behind one of the
red-lit windows to see how outsiders look at you. Unfortunately, no souvenir shop is available, so youll have to find
a sexy gift at one of the shops in the area.QB-2, Oudezijds
Achterburgwal 60H, www.redlightsecrets.com. Open
12:00 - 24:00. Admission: 7.50. J
Centrum
CHURCHES
THE PARROT: CHURCH OF STS. PETER AND
PAUL (DE PAPEGAAI)
In stark contrast to the non-stop racket heard from shoppers
outside on the tireless Kalverstraat, this well-hidden church
is a small oasis of peace and quiet. Its clandestine appearance is intentional as it was one of several underground
Catholic churches that had to conceal their existence from
Protestant persecution, hence its code name the Parrot.
Just look for the tile mosaic to find the entrance.QA-3,
Kalverstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18 89, www.nicolaasparochie.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:45 - 13:30.
WESTERKERK
One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was
consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it
still tends to its Protestant flock to this day. Its Dutch Renaissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower embellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian
soars to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished
painter Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one is
quite sure exactly where. Although the church is also used
as a concert hall, its closed to visitors during the winter
months.QE-5, Prinsengracht 281, www.westerkerk.nl.
Open April - October 11:00 - 15:00. Tower admission: 6.
MUSEUMS
AMSTERDAM MUSEUM
Although there are many cities in Europe and the Netherlands with histories stretching much farther into the past,
Amsterdams story is unique and unusual and worth discovering at this fascinating and eclectic museum. Follow
the development of this powerful port through medieval
artefacts and art to fun exhibits that highlight popular culture from films about the Ajax football club and a model of
Hollands first gay and lesbian bar, t Mandje.QA-3, Kalverstraat 92 / Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357, tel. (+31) 205
23 18 22, www.amsterdammuseum.nl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children 6 - 18 years 5, children 5 and under free. BK
ANNE FRANK HOUSE (ANNE FRANK HUIS)
There are very few people who arent acquainted with the
tragic story of Anne Frank. The diary of her time spent in
the secret annex was published in 1947 and later translated in over 65 languages. The popularity of her work is reflected in the huge queues outside this museum that has
been teaching Amsterdams visitors about the Holocaust,
the story of the Frank family and their desperate struggle
to survive and the evils of anti-Semitism and racism since
1960. Inside youll walk through the warehouse where
workers attended to their business every day completely
unaware that several people were hiding upstairs. .QE-5,
Prinsengracht 263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.
annefrank.org. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission: adults 9, children 10 - 17 years 4.50, children nine and under free. AKW
SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL

If you appreciate all things equestrian than dont miss a chance
to see the worlds oldest riding
school at the Ziggo Dome on
November 29 and 30. The Spanish Riding School of Vienna has
been promoting excellence in
horseback riding for 450 years,
so relive the elegant days of the
Habsburgs and watch professionals in period costume perform amazing feats on beautiful white stallions. Olympic gold medallist Anky van
Grunsven will host the event, which will also include
a special performance of the smash hit Pearl by Rotterdams Scapino Ballet. For tickets and more information
visit www.srs-live.nl or www.ticketmaster.nl.
HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM (HET WOONBOOTMUSEUM)
The owner of this converted freighter that dates back to
1914 knows a thing or two about houseboats as he lived
onboard for 22 years before moving ashore with the rest of
the landlubbers in Amsterdam. He now runs this museum
which receives over 38,000 visitors each year who are curious to see how people can use a boat as a permanent
residence. View pictures and scale models and discover
interesting facts about the waterways of the city such as
the average depth on an Amsterdam canal (its 2.8m).QE6, Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50, www.
houseboatmuseum.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Open November - February Fri - Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 3.75, children 3.
MUSEUM GEELVINCK
Enter the building and walk through the beautiful garden
to reach this hidden gem of a canal house. Original Golden
Age furniture, frescos, musical instruments and marble
floors are all available for your perusal in four rooms on
the ground floor while the cellar hosts exhibitions. QG7, Keizersgracht 633, tel. (+31) 207 15 59 00, www.
museumgeelvinck.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission: adult 8, children 6 - 18 years 4, children
5 and under free.
MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES (TASSEN
MUSEUM HENDRIKJE)
What began as Hendrikje Ivos obsession with purses blossomed into the worlds largest collection of handbags and
purses with over 4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Located
in a prestigious 17th-century home, the museum begins on
the top floor where you can view satchels, boxes and letter cases from the 16th - 19th centuries made from every
material imaginable. 20th-century exhibits include funky
Art Deco purses as well as bags made from exotic animals.
QH-7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24 64 52, www.
museumofbagsandpurses.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 9,50, children under 12 free. AK
Autumn 2014
25
Centrum
ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM (KONINKLIJK
PALEIS AMSTERDAM)
Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the
building was first opened to the public as the Town Hall in
1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdinand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth
wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal
residence in 1808 when he briefly served as the King of
Holland, but it later became the possession of the House
of Orange. After meandering through a few dull corridors
youll finally walk upstairs to the main hall where your jaw
is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so much polished marble in one place, not to mention six giant crystal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered
in frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and
astronomical charts in the floor. The audio guide, which
is included in the price, is essential as none of the rooms
have explanations in any language. A short movie with
English subtitles is available before you take the tour.QA2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40 60, www.paleisamsterdam.
nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children
under 18 free.
VAN LOON MUSEUM (MUSEUM VAN LOON)

This magnificent building owned by the Van Loon family
trust has a rich and storied history and is one of the few remaining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes
in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt apprentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671
but passed on to different owners over the centuries until
it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose
most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the
Dutch East India Company. Although the family was one of
the citys wealthiest, they cultivated a tradition of opening
up their home to show off its splendour and this tradition
has survived to this day. View 17th-century portraits, period furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular
wall murals, a centuries-old working kitchen and a spacious manicured garden all in the centre of Amsterdam. As
you walk around its sumptuous rooms you might even run
into one of the Van Loons who still stay in the home from
time to time. QG-7, Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24
52 55, www.museumvanloon.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Tue. Admission: 7.
PLACES OF INTEREST
BREWERS CANAL (BROUWERSGRACHT)
Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque canals, this beautiful waterway is one of the citys prettiest
and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such
as the Golden Bend. The Brewers Canal began its existence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds
of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up
shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre, the
atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny
little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters
and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF-8, Between
the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht.
Impressive opulence at Royal Palace Amsterdam
THE HASH, MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM

Apart from the pleasant effects that it can have on your
mood and state of mind, cannabis has a thousand uses
you probably never heard of. During Hollands Golden
Age, Dutch East India Company ships made their ropes
and sails from hemp, while today hemp fibre is still one
of the most durable and easy to use materials available for
making clothing. The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum
displays the history of industrial hemp in its gallery, while
its main collection consists of items related to the history
of cannabis, the culture that surrounds it and its medicinal benefits. Ancient hash pipes, 17th-century paintings
of medieval Dutchmen getting high, cinema posters of
Cheech and Chong, a guitar made of hemp and hundreds
of other unusual items make this a fascinating place to
visit. A small shop selling gifts and cannabis seeds is also
attached to the museum.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26, www.hashmuseum.
com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Admission: adults 9, children
under 13 free.
EASTERN ISLANDS (OOSTELIJKE EILANDEN)

Theres one thing at which the Dutch truly excel: turning
water into land. Large parts of the Eastern Islands (Kattenburg, Wittenburg and Oostenburg) were reclaimed from
the River IJ in the 19th century and the Dutch East India
Company also had its headquarters here. Impressive buildings like the Maritime Museum stand alongside charming
homes, but bear in mind that the neighbourhood may be
pretty, but theres not much else to do here apart from admiring the scenery.QI/J-4, Oostelijke Eilanden.
ENTREPOTDOK
Escaping the pull of the Artis Zoo, the Red Light District
and other major tourist attractions is difficult, but a brief
walk down the Entrepotdok might bring you back to your
senses. Theres not much to do around here, so youre
forced to admire the long row of 300-year-old warehouses
that line the canal. The buildings are architecturally similar
and are all named after Dutch and Belgian cities. After a
brief walk back in time, you can return to Amsterdams finest. The the Artis Zoo is located just on the other side of
the water.QI/J-6, Entrepotdok.
Centrum
MIKES BIKE TOURS
Two daily tours show you the hidden gems of the inner
city (16:00) or the enchanting surroundings of the Dutch
countryside (11:00). Dont expect boring guides who try
to pass the time by spouting dry facts. The entertaining
staff attempt to make the experience as fun as possible.
QF-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31) 206 22 79 70, www.
mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com. (15 - 22). JA
Dam Square and the National Monument from above
FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT)

The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a functioning
market in one. Although its often called the worlds only
floating flower market, most of the browsing takes place
on dry land as the stalls are located on barges moored on
the Singel and although its quite attractive when walking
past, its actually a bit of an eyesore when viewed from
the other side of the canal. You can buy bulbs and seeds
for all kinds of plants and flowers and we have to admit
that weve also picked up a Venus flytrap kit here, which
was a huge hit with kids at home. The sellers will also send
bulbs to your home address abroad and they know which
countries dont allow the importation of plant materials,
so you dont have to worry about having your purchase
confiscated at customs. Locals also buy flowers here so
the prices are actually quite reasonable. There are plenty
of cafs and souvenir shops opposite the market.QA/B3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open
09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. A
GOLDEN BEND (GOUDEN BOCHT)
This stretch of the Herengracht is famous for its grand
manor houses that came into existence when Amsterdams ber-wealthy built their dream homes here during
the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century. Although it figures prominently in city guides of all stripes, the buildings
are actually on the boring side and lack the narrow dimensions and cosiness that most people associate with the
capitals architecture. Youll probably walk by on your way
to lots of local museums anyway, but otherwise you can
give it a pass unless you need to hire one of the prominent
law firms that have their offices here.QB-3, Herengracht
between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
KAROS CITYTOURS
Want to impress your loved one with a romantic ride? The
coachmen in front of the Royal Palace on Dam Square will
take you on a horse-drawn tour of the city from the comfort of a nostalgic carriage.QA-2, Veemarkt 50, tel. (+31)
206 91 34 78, www.karos.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Prices
from 35 (4 persons, 20 minutes).
YELLOW BIKE
Yellow Bike has been renting bicycles and offering comprehensive bike tours of Amsterdam since 1990. You can
rent a bike for as little as 12/day, but if youd prefer a tour,
professional staff will guide you through the city centre or
take you across the IJ to explore the dikes, country cottages and wetlands of Noord. Its office is located a short
walk from the Central Station.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29,
tel. (+31) 206 20 69 40, www.yellowbike.nl. Open 09:30
- 17:00. Also at Oudezijds Armsteeg 22.
STATUES & MONUMENTS

NATIONAL MONUMENT
Its hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square
thats often occupied by people of all ages and nationalities sunning themselves, reading books or just relaxing. The brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P.
Oud (1890 - 1963), the National Monument made of white
travertine was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all
Dutch men and women who suffered under the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands and to the nations liberation.
A number of statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance
expressed by all members of society from labourers to
the intelligentsia and the lions on either side represent
the Dutch nation. The giant pillar rises to a height of 22m.
QA-2, Dam.
MOVEMBER
If you happen to be in the
Netherlands during the
month of November you
may notice an unusually
large number of men sporting moustaches of various
lengths and styles. Its not
that Dutch men want to
emulate their favourite 1970s
porn stars, rather theyre
showing their support for
mens health issues such as prostate cancer. Men start
out clean shaven on the first of the month and grow out
their moustaches until the end of Movember to raise
money and awareness. The social campaign will include
a number of special events as well as a gala party with
live music, drinks and good company. For more information visit nl.movember.com/en.
Autumn 2014
27
Centrum
PLANTAGE SIGHTSEEING
The Plantage has an incredible concentration of museums, historical monuments, cutting-edge architecture and
beautiful parkland all in one neighbourhood.
ARTIS ROYAL ZOO
Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo in
the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of fauna
and 200 species of flora. The sprawling park not only offers a huge collection of exotic animals from near and
far, but also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology
museum. Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo
live outdoors so you can see camels lounging in the sand
or Japanese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions,
elephants, buffalo and giraffes in their enclosures or head
over to the top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant
tortoises and crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in
the Insect House. You can also view nocturnal creatures in
the Jungle by Night exhibit, chimpanzees in the monkey
house and strange forms of life from the planets oceans in
the aquarium. Two cafs and a large childrens playground
are also available.QI-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31)
90 02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults 18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK
Scary wildlife at the Royal Artis Zoo
M.Zaprauskis
GASSAN DIAMONDS
Learn everything about a girls best friend in this familyowned diamond factory where you can take a free tour
of the premises in dozens of different languages and buy
something bright and sparkly for your significant other in
one of its showrooms. Although youre by no means obligated to purchase anything, we recommend a visit to any
young man who plans on buying an engagement ring at
some point in his life. Theyll teach you about the four Cs
colour, clarity, carat and cut and how to spot a fake so you
dont get ripped off elsewhere. Watch diamond cutters ply
their trade and finish your experience with a complimentary
cup of coffee or tea and a Dutch cookie at its Delftware shop
next door.QH-5, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173 - 175, tel.
(+31) 206 22 53 33, www.gassandiamonds.nl. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Admission: free. A
HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM
Russias most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Amsterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style
building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for
poverty-stricken elderly women. Since 2009, the building
has hosted periodic themed exhibitions that display some
of the Hermitages most prized possessions from stunningly
preserved artefacts of the ancient world to masterpieces
of European art. Permanent exhibits dedicated to the Amstelhof and the origins of the Hermitage Museum and the
Russian royal family are also available. The Hermitage is currently hosting an exhibition entitled Dining with the Tsars.
Fragile beauty from the Hermitage that will be on display
until March 1, 2015.QH-6, Amstel 51, tel. (+31) 205 30 74
88, www.hermitage.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission:
adults 15, children 17 and under free. AU
HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS (HORTUS BOTANICUS AMSTERDAM)
Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the
Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists,
botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it
one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only
a little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000
species of plants from around the globe throughout its
gardens and greenhouses, nearly all of which are open to
the public. It specialises in cycads, or palm trees, the oldest
of which was brought to the Netherlands on a V.O.C. ship
centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856.
You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful
flowers, carnivorous florae, a rare Australian pine thought
extinct until 1994 and even a redwood tree, which, if allowed to grow on its own, might just change the citys
skyline in a few generations. You can also walk through
the tropical and desert greenhouses, but dont miss the
butterfly house. You can also buy plants at its shop or have
lunch at its caf that hosts live jazz on Sundays in summer.QH-5, Plantage Middenlaan 2a, tel. (+31) 206 25 90
21, www.dehortus.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission:
adults 8.50, children 5 - 14 years 4.50, children 4 and
under free. HEK
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
(NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM)
In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the
wealthiest and most important nations in the world and
this was in large part due to its maritime prowess. No other
country in the world had as many ships sailing the seas
of the globe as Holland. After thorough renovations, the
Maritime Museum once again demonstrates how the sea
has defined Dutch culture. Stimulating, interactive exhibits bring 500 years of maritime history to life. The significance of this industry in the modern age is also explained
in a clear and concise manner. Children will also love the
museum, especially the replica of the famous VOC (Dutch
East India Company) ship.QI-4, Kattenburgerplein 1, tel.
(+31) 205 23 22 22, www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: 15, children 5 and over
7.50. TJAL
Centrum
PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE
Most European capitals were hardly an ideal place for Jews
to call home in medieval times, but no city was more tolerant of this ethnic group than Amsterdam in the 17th-century. As the city prospered, its population grew by leaps
and bounds and among its many new arrivals were Jews
from around the continent. They completed work on this
synagogue in 1675 and since then it has served as a centre
for Jewish life in Amsterdam housing also offices, archives,
ritual baths and a rabbinate. The synagogue was completely restored in 2011 and now its treasure rooms which
house unique ceremonial objects are open to the public.
The ticket price includes admission to the Jewish Historical
Museum nearby.QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 3, tel. (+31) 205 31
03 10, www.portugesesynagoge.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00,
Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: adults 12, children 13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3. HAU
REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM
This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands
most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum
of 13,000 guilders at a time when a day labourer was content to make 300 guilders in a year. An audio guide will
take you through the house, which is reconstructed to
look exactly as it did when Rembrandt was at the peak of
his career. Staff also demonstrate how etchings were massproduced using copper plates.QG/H-5, Jodenbreestraat
4, tel. (+31) 205 20 04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children 6 - 17
years 3, children 5 and under free. A
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO

Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers
look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives
will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhibition entitled Miracle or Science, which is dedicated to fun topics like
predicting the path of a pendulum or watching a stone
float in the air will be on display until October 26 and the
center will offer free admission on October 4 and 5 for Science Weekend. You can also bring your own lunch and eat
it in the cafeteria or buy some
food on the top floor terrace
caf that offers a great view of
the city. A good museum shop
is also available where you can
buy science experiments and
other great souvenirs for kids.
QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31)
205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO.nl,
www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00
- 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission: 15, children under four
free. AK
Autumn 2014
29
Centrum
SHOPPING
EROTIC GEAR
You can shop for the big brands on the pedestrian Kalverstraat, try the boutiques in the Jordaan or find something
exotic in Chinatown around the Nieuwmarkt.
FEMALE & PARTNERS

An excellent assortment of sexy womens lingerie from traditional silk and lace to leather and latex, not to mention classy
sex toys, bondage accessories and lubricants. QA-2, Spuistraat 100, tel. (+31) 206 20 91 52, www.femaleandpartners.
nl. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 11:00 - 21:00,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. A
PURE LUST
As the name would suggest, this place sells all kinds of
DVDs, sex toys and adult games as well as lingerie.QOudezijdse Voorburgwal 135, tel. (+31) 206 20 05 12, www.
purelust.nu. Open 10:00 - 22:00. JA
ANTIQUES & ART

ANTIQUARIAAT LONT
Owner Marieke Lont specialises in antique books, posters
and postcards.QE-4, Herenstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 26 39
82, www.antiquariaat-lont.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
ANTIQUARIAN HOOGKAMP
An excellent selection of antique prints, maps, cityscapes
and botanicals from the 16th - 20th centuries.QG-8, Spiegelgracht 27, tel. (+31) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
BOOKS
THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER
Book lovers could spend days in this temple to Englishlanguage literature. Skip the coffee table books and magazines on the ground floor and climb up to the next two
floors for novels, travel, history, sci-fi, fantasy, political science and even manga.QA-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31) 206 25 55
37, www.abc.nl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00,
Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. A
THE BOOK EXCHANGE
Secondhand English-language books from fitcion and history to current events for good prices. Book exchanges also
possible as the name suggests.QB-2, Kloveniersburgwal 58, tel. (+31) 206 26 62 66, www.bookexchange.nl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00.
DELFTWARE
JORRIT HEINEN DELFT SHOP
An official dealer of Royal Delft porcelain from cutesy souvenirs and tiles to upmarket vases and flatware. It also has
an outlet in the historic Munttoren (Mint Tower).QE-6, Prinsengracht 440, tel. (+31) 206 27 82 99, www.jorritheinen.
com. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
RINASCIMENTO DELFTWARE
Across the canal from the Westerkerk, this official Delftware factory dealer sells everything from plates, tiles and
vases to beautiful Christmas ornaments the perfect souvenir.QE-5, Prinsengracht 170, tel. (+31) 206 22 75 09,
www.delft-art-gallery.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. A
MUSIC SHOPS
CONCERTO
Possibly the citys, and perhaps the nations largest collection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl spread
out across five buildings: one for classical, another for
world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one dedicated
to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used CDs.
Amazing!QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206 23
52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A
FLESCH RECORDS
This small shop near the Noordermarkt sells vinyl from
Frank Zappa and the Damned to Nat King Cole as well as
old hi-fi equipment, record needles and even fruit at the
weekend.QD-4, Noorderkerkstraat 16, tel. (+31) 206 22
81 85/(+31) 652 65 76 69. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00
- 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
SPORTS & OUTDOORS

FJLLRVEN BRAND CENTER
This popular Swedish brand, which means arctic fox,
specialises in all kinds of outdoor gear from its signature
backpacks and camping essentials like tents to clothing,
hiking boots and all the apparel youll need to spend time
in nature. Its large brand centre in Amsterdam is conveniently located on the Rozengracht.QD-7, Rozengracht
219 - 225, tel. (+31) 204 28 17 60, www.fjallravencenter.
nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JA
DEPARTMENT STORES
KALVERTOREN
Youll find this large shopping centre on the Kalverstraat
near Muntplein.QA-3, Kalverstraat 212 - 220, www.
kalvertoren.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30,
Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:30.
Youll need a good outdoors store to cope with a wet autumn
Centrum Map
Centrum Map
Nieuw-West
In the aftermath of WWII Amsterdam was in desperate
need of new housing. By 1951 work began on the garden
suburb of Tuinstad Slotermeer, the first of five new neighbourhoods that were added to the west end of the city. Today, Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart, Overtoomse Veld
and Osdorp comprise the urban district of Nieuw-West. A
spacious design with plenty of greenery is characteristic of
these new neighbourhoods, which all surround the peaceful waters of the Sloterplas lake.
ARRIVING IN NIEUW-WEST
Nieuw-Wests main train station is Amsterdam Lelylaan,
which has great connections with Central Station and
Schiphol. The green metro line 50 is probably the easiest
way to get to Nieuw-West from the railway stations at
Zuid and RAI. Along the way it passes six metro stations
in Nieuw-West. Many trams also travel to Nieuw-West including No.13 (Geuzenveld), Nos.7 and 14 (Slotermeer),
No.17 (Osdorp Dijkgraafplein), No.1 (Osdorp de Aker) and
No.2 (Nieuw Sloten). All, with the exception of Nos.7 and 14
(Dam), depart from Central Station.
ACCOMMODATION
DUTCH DESIGN HOTEL ARTEMIS
Other Amsterdam hotels may claim to be boutique or
design hotels, but this incredibly modern building has
been created from top to bottom solely by Dutch designers and artists. Everything in this hotel incorporates some
aspect of inspiring new Dutch design from its 256 rooms
and 11 meeting rooms to the food and cocktails served at
its fantastic restaurant and bar, De Stijl. The accommodation is luxurious to say the least with modern, yet natural
furnishings, floor-to-ceiling windows and standard amenities such as wi-fi and large flat screen TVs. Naturally, art is
displayed throughout the hotel and it also offers a great
summer terrace on the water.QN-4, John M.Keynesplein
2, tel. (+31) 207 14 10 00, www.artemisamsterdam.com.
256 rooms (superior from 89, business from 139).
PiTHAUFLGBKXW hhhh
WESTCORD FASHION HOTEL AMSTERDAM
Located at the south end of the Rembrandt Park, this
four-star design hotel has plenty to offer the discerning traveller who demands more than just a place to lay
his head. All rooms are stylish, yet playful and even cosy
unlike similar establishments that rely on minimalism to
be trendy. Naturally, the usual amenities are available including flat screen TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone,
coffee/tea set, private bathroom and free wi-fi. And a
design hotel wouldnt be complete without a hot cocktail bar so head to the 10th floor to have a drink with the
beautiful people at the Skyy Bar. A large wellness centre
with a swimming pool and steam rooms is also at your
disposal.QN-3, Hendrikje Stoffelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208
10 08 00, www.westcordhotels.nl. 260 rooms (twin and
doubles from 119, triples from 179, suites from 385).
PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhh
EATING & DRINKING

COFFEE MANIA
Coffee Mania is one of the coolest hot spots in NieuwWest. The black gold takes central stage here in many different ways including the walls, which are decorated with
beautiful drawings and interesting trivia about the worlds
most popular drink. Seven kinds of coffee are on offer and
you can also get a cheap breakfast, several home-made
soups and a delicious Turkish tosti with spicy sausages,
which we cant recommend enough.QN-3, Ottho Heldringstraat 3, tel. (+31) 207 60 03 61, www.coffeemania.
nl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (4
- 7). TAULGSW
EETCAF-TERRAS OOSTOEVER
This concrete structure right next to Sloterplas might not
seem promising from the outside, but it actually houses
one of the best cafs in Nieuw-West and we would even
say one of Amsterdams best-kept secrets. This old-fashioned caf looks a bit like a brown bar as its decorated
with ancient Heineken advertisements, aged photographs
and a couple of kitschy paintings. Dusty lampshades and
wooden tables add to the cosy atmosphere, but for a truly
superb view take a seat on the fantastic terrace. At lunch
you can order a toasty or uitsmijter (a sandwich with fried
eggs, cheese and ham) and the dinner menu includes a
few simple, yet well prepared meat dishes. QN-2, Oostoever 1, tel. (+31) 206 13 04 92, www.oestoever.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon, Sat. (13 - 15). NBXW
PLATO
Although we arent exactly culinary experts like the people who write the Michelin guide, we dont think that Plato
will ever win a top prize for their simple cuisine, but then
again, thats never been the goal of its friendly owners.
You can, however, enjoy good, wholesome Greek food for
a very reasonable price in this cosy restaurant. The outdoor
caf, the free aperitif and the sincere, personal service
are all Platos main strengths.QM-2, Confuciusplein 12,
tel. (+31) 206 13 39 33, www.grieksrestaurantplato.nl.
Open 17:00 - 23:00. ALGBKX
Cocktails at the Skyy Bar in Nieuw-West
Nieuw-West
SIGHTSEEING
Autumn day in Nieuw-West
SKYY BAR
On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most
evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular
haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth.
The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure
paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the
fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here its
a good place to visit even if you just want to have a look
at the beautiful girls in sexy outfits while sipping a cocktail or some champagne. We recommend the surprisingly
affordable porn star martini, which is a tasty drink indeed.
QN-3, Hendrikje Stoffelsstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08
00, www.skyybar.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 02:00. AULGW
SYRIANA
Just as Amsterdam is a melting pot of different cultures,
so is Syriana. Thousands of Arabs live in this city and its
near surroundings, so its a no-brainer that it should have a
proper restaurant serving Syrian, Lebanese, Egyptian and
Iraqi cuisine, but youll have to travel a ways to find it. Well
give you a hint. Just look for a cheese factory and a windmill. An eastern atmosphere prevails here and you can
enjoy an Arab-style high tea, water pipes and even belly
dancers at the weekend.QAkersluis 8, tel. (+31) 206 69
09 03, www.syriana.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (16 - 21).
PTAULGBKX
VLLA
Its usually fairly straightforward to classify a restaurant or
club, but VLLA is an exception to the rule. This cultural haven wears so many hats its hard to describe. Its a Dutch
lunchroom, a restaurant, a theatre and a bar and children
also havent been forgotten at this former funeral home.
Where silence and grief once prevailed, the tunes of upand-coming bands can be heard in what used to be the
morgue. If that sends a chill down your spine just consider
the reasonable prices and the currently cosy atmosphere
of this renovated space. If it were located in the centre of
Berlin VLLA would be an instant success, but in Amsterdam its as yet one of the citys last undiscovered little
gems.QN-3, Willem Roelofsstraat 9, tel. (+31) 646 10 82
72, www.vlla.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
T6LENGBKXW
DORPSPLEIN SLOTEN
The traditional houses that surround this picturesque
square reveal that Sloten was once an independent village
before it was absorbed by Amsterdams western expansion in the 1950s. The village square is the oldest part of
Sloten, its history reaching back as far as the 11th century.
Its also home to an ancient water pump and a fire alarm
from the 1920s. It may also interest you to know that the
tiny house just next to the square is the smallest police
station in the Netherlands. Some 20m west of the square,
on the corner of Sloterweg and Osdorpweg, youll find
the oldest remaining house of the former village. The sign
on the house indicates that the building dates from 1692.
QM-4, Dorpsplein, tel. (+31) 206 17 45 11.
REMBRANDT PARK (REMBRANDTPARK)
One of Hollands most famous painters, Rembrandt van
Rijn, had a park named after him centuries after his death.
This spacious green space is located at the border between the old city and the estates of the 1950s and 1960s.
The park is cut in half by the Postjesweg and the many
lakes and open fields that surround it create a relaxed and
peaceful atmosphere. A great variety of sculpture, a zoo
and the best kids playground in Amsterdam are just some
of the attractions of this central urban oasis.QN-3, Orteliuskade, www.rembrandtpark.org.
SLOTEN WINDMILL (MOLEN VAN SLOTEN)
Nearly 100 years ago, the Netherlands boasted over 10,000
windmills. Unfortunately, less than 1,000 are left, but several are still located on the outskirts of Amsterdam. One
of the most beautiful ones, Molen van Sloten, is located
at a picturesque spot on the edge of Nieuw-West. This
type of windmill, called a Stellingmolen, was used to keep
the water level low in the neighbouring areas. Its also the
only windmill in Amsterdam which is open every day and
even the disabled can take a tour of this beautiful building from 1846 by taking the lift to the upper floors. Many
couples have also been married at this Amsterdam landmark.QM-4, Akersluis 10, tel. (+31) 206 69 04 12, www.
molenvansloten.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. T
SLOTER PARK (SLOTERPARK)
The Sloter Park, which measures an impressive 91 hectares,
is the largest park in Amsterdam and despite its immense
size, its also one of our favourites. This green urban landscape is best explored by bike, although you can discover
some good places on foot as well. Try the popular 5.8km
Sloterplas Tour, which takes you through a changing landscape guaranteed to keep you interested in your surroundings. The park was created using the excavated top soil of
the former Sloterdijkermeer Polder. In the very north western corner is a piece of land which has remained untouched
since it was designed in the 1950s and it has gradually developed into the Het Ruige Riet nature reserve. Dog owners
in particular cherish this beautiful piece of nature, so watch
your step! QM-3, President Allendelaan 3.
Autumn 2014
35
Noord
For centuries the north section of the city was an area that
most Amsterdammers weren't too keen on. It seems that
everything unwanted was 'dumped' here, from the gallows
in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry
much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted large
numbers of financially challenged people exacerbating the
stigma that was already attached to Amsterdam's largest
administrative district. Today Noord, or simply North, is one
of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capital. More and
more people have begun to appreciate the unique merits
of this territory beyond the River IJ. With this in mind we've
put together a small guide to this interesting urban and rural zone that's usually overlooked by most tourists. All you
need to do is to take one of the free ferries behind the Central Station and 10 minutes later you'll be able to explore
Noord and its surroundings. Take a small river cruise on a
boat that offers an all-you-can-eat pancake buffet, do some
cycling in the pristine countryside, bring a towel and swim
trunks and take a dip at one of the area's swimming pools
or visit a festival and see why Noord has become the sizzling new hub of Amsterdam's creative community. There
are three different ferries that will take you over the River IJ
in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-Noord
completely free of charge. The departure landing is located
just behind the Central Station.
SYMBOL KEY
O Casino
T Child-friendly

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
BOTELS
From botels and cosy B&Bs to camping and luxury hotels,

the north side of the River IJ has plenty to offer.
AMSTEL BOTEL
This ship is safely moored at the NDSM pier. In the past this
colossus was a riverboat and most guests spent their time
on deck. If you simply need somewhere to crash after a
night on the town and youre looking for free parking, this
is the place. Small cabins with thin walls and claustrophobic
bathrooms come standard at this botel. The lack of luxury
and privacy may not be to everyones liking, but if you need
relatively cheap accommodation and you dont mind living
on the water, book a room at the back where you have a
great view of the River IJ. Unfortunately most other rooms
face a grey wall.QM-2, NDSM-Pier 3, tel. (+31) 206 26 42
47, www.amstelbotel.nl. 175 rooms (157 doubles 60 120, 18 triples 89 - 150). PTALGBKXW
UPMARKET
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
THE FARALDA NDSM CRANE HOTEL AMSTERDAM

Crane 13 is a renowned industrial landmark and during
its heyday the 300-tonne monument could lift up to 40
tonnes of materials. However, after a complete restoration it has a new function as a hotel and TV studio. The
first of its three high-end design suites hovers at a height
of 13 metres, but a Jacuzzi offers incredible views of Amsterdams city centre from a height of 50m. Naturally, all
of this luxury comes at a premium, but believe it or not
youll have to add your name to a waiting list if youd like
to spend the night here.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 78, www.
faralda.nl. iAULGW
BROOKLYN HOTEL
Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to miss
as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM wharf
that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the waters of
the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation
decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey colours that
includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless internet access, mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to
mention incredible views. We particularly liked the room
where you can shower and look out the floor-to-ceiling
glass window.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06
66, www.brooklynhotel.nl. 88 rooms (standard from
89, deluxe rooms from 129). PALKW
ACCOMMODATION
One of Noords best attractions - the EYE Film Institute
SWEET DREAMZ
Each of the rooms in this quirky boutique hotel have been
given common Dutch names. The Maarten & Bas room is
the cheapest of the lot at 85/night and with a mint green
floor, a yellow bed and a flashy pink duvet, youd be right
if you guessed that its popular with same sex couples.
Kiki & Joost, a young designer duo from Eindhoven, had
the privilege of being the first guests to stay in this former bank building and were thus honoured with a room
named after them. Two bikes are also included in the price.
QN-2, Meidoornweg 2, tel. (+31) 204 94 06 84, www.
sweetdreamz.nl. JLNGKW
Noord
BED & BREAKFAST
CAFS
B&B DE NOORDERLING
For short stays this cosy garden home located in a quiet
residential area of Noord is a good option, but we have
to warn you that the rooms are a little cramped. The beds
are comfortable and it has its own dining area and a private terrace, but the toilet and shower are shared. The
fully equipped kitchen is also at your disposal should you
want to cook dinner, but save some space for the abundant breakfast in the morning as the owner is a professional chef and he goes out of his way to please you with
his culinary know how.QM-3, Stoombootweg 100, tel.
(+31) 206 22 16 70, www.denoordeling.nl. (single 50,
double 65). TLGBW
Noord is very popular with Amsterdam hipsters, so it will

come as no surprise that the area has loads of great cafs.
B&B DURGERDAM COUNTRYSIDE

Durgerdam is a picturesque village only a 30-minutes
bike ride from central Amsterdam and this friendly B&B
is located at the edge of the village facing the natural
beauty of the protected Wetlands. Lots of space and privacy will make you feel at home and you can either stay
in the large studio at the back of the owners house or in a
separate holiday home in the garden. Both have a private
garden next to a wide ditch, which is great if youre travelling with kids. Breakfast is served each morning but you
can also cook your own meals in the kitchenette.QN-5,
Durgerdammergouw 35, tel. (+31) 204 28 66 15, www.
bbdurgerdam.nl. 2 rooms (80 - 100). iTLGB
DXW
B&B HET OUDE DIJKHUIS
Located on one of Amsterdams most attractive cycling
routes, this spacious apartment can accommodate up to
four people. The furnishings are not exactly modern or
cosy and could best be described as old fashioned and
boring. On the other hand, the friendly owners and the
more than reasonable prices make up for the lack of dcor. The Old Dike House even has a private entrance and
a full sized kitchen. It also rents bikes, but you cant take
them to the centre of Amsterdam because of the risk of
theft.QN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 443, tel. (+31) 204 94
18 42, www.hetoudedijkhuis.nl. 1 apartment (1 person
70, 4 persons 130). TLNGB
Youre never far from ships large and small in Noord
(B)BROOD NDSM
Strolling around Amsterdam theres a good chance that
youve spotted one of the outlets of this small chain of
bakeries. Our favourite of these happens to be the (B)
Brood at the ferry terminal of the NDSM-wharf. Three
floors have been decorated with a mix of graphic art,
bright, splashy colours and an abundance of fresh flowers. The rooftop terrace offers great views of the IJ and
the Russian submarine thats moored right outside.
Downstairs at the counter youll encounter the addictive
aroma of freshly baked buns, pastries and bread and we
recommend the sandwiches slathered in typically sweet
Dutch fillings like hagelslag and pindakaas.QN-2, Ms
van Riemsdijkweg 30, tel. (+31) 206 33 10 89, www.
bbrood.nl. Open 07:45 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 09:45 - 18:00.
iTJA6LBXSW
CAF DE CEUVEL
If you like organic food thats sourced from local ecofriendly farms and dont mind sharing the terrace with
what looks like Amsterdams entire population of hipsters,
then Caf de Ceuvel is a great place to embrace your inner tree-hugger and eat a tasty meal while helping the
planet. The funky pavilion is made from upcycled materials including old bollards from Amsterdams port and a
lifeguards station, all meals are cooked using local biogas
and some of the herbs and vegetables are grown on the
roof of the structure. The caf also hosts music concerts,
seminars and movie screenings.QM-2, Korte Papaverweg 4, info@ceuvelcafe.nl, www.cafedeceuvel.nl.
Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. EB
CAFE T SLUISJE
This remarkable building is located in one of the most
scenic areas of Amsterdam-Noord. At a intersection of
age-old water routes that farmers once used to bring their
milk to the centre of town by boat, passers-by can now
enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of Nobeltje, a liqueur from
the island of Ameland. Unfortunately, there arent many
sailors left in this historical part of Amsterdam, but apart
from that this family-run business is authentic and nostalgic. The menu on the other hand is completely contemporary with chic dishes like warm goats cheese salad and
smoked salmon with capers. Make sure you get here early,
as the large garden and terrace on the dike fill up quickly.
QN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 297, tel. (+31) 206 36 17 12,
www.hetsluisje.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (5 - 8). TGB
Hundreds more reviews at

Noord
AJAX & NOORD
Over the years many districts in Amsterdam have been
home to Ajax, the Dutch capitals football giant. Most diehard fans believe that De Meer, which has now been demolished, was the best location. On the other hand, the
current stadium - the Amsterdam Arena - has become
a virtual Mecca for football enthusiasts. That said, few
people realise that Amsterdam-North is the true cradle
of this world famous club.
Footh-Ball Club Ajax - with its original spelling mistake
- was forced to leave its playing field at the end of the
Overtoom Road in 1900, because the pitch was to become a new neighbourhood of residential homes. The
club decided to change its name (dropping the spelling
mistake) into Football Club Ajax and rented a pitch on
the Middenweg - now called the Hagedoornweg - on
an empty polder in Buiksloterham in Amsterdam-North.
RESTAURANTS
Noord has a little something for everyone from ultra hip
fine dining to a boat that serves pancakes.
FAST FOOD
HARING NAATJE
If youre brave enough to try Dutch raw herring for the first
time, theres no better place lose your virginity than at this
authentic local fish stall. Its traditional, not only due to its
Dutch flag decorations, but also because all of the seafood
sold here is fresh and caught in the North Sea. Authentic
in this case also means that you shouldnt expect anything
more than tasty takeaway snacks. If the thought of raw
herring seems to stimulate your gag reflex, but youd still
like to try some typically Dutch seafood, you could order
the kibbeling (deep fried cod) or smoked mackerel.QN3, Purmerplein. Open Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 17:30, Sat
10:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (2 - 3). T6S
PIETJE FRIETJE
In our opinion theres nothing wrong with evening out
your cholesterol level after a long day of walking and
sightseeing. Pietje Frietje, an old-fashioned snackbar conveniently located in a grass field at the corner of Schaafstraat and the busy Meeuwenlaan, is a good place to start.
All of the usual fries, croquettes and other deep fried foods
can be enjoyed in the open air, which is precisely what lots
of cyclists do while cruising around Amsterdam Noord.
QN-3, Meeuwenlaan. (2 - 3). 6BS
INDONESIAN
Amsterdam North became the home turf of Ajax, which
was still relatively unknown in the early 20th century.
Many supporters still regard the first pitch in North, located at what is currently called the Hagedoornweg, the
place where it all started. All home games were played
on this simple field. Later Ajax moved to another pitch
in North. With this location came creature comforts like
changing rooms for the players in what could best be
described as a vacant shed. Unfortunately, the location
wasnt the best as the players had to walk at least 15
minutes from the ferry landing to the ground. (Photo:
Ajax archives)
PUSPITA
Virtually every Indonesian restaurant in Holland is stuffed
full of wooden carvings, authentic wajang dolls and pictures of rice fields. Fortunately Puspita is one of the rare
exceptions. On the other hand, the interior puts one in
mind of a bourgeois Dutch pub with old fashioned chairs
and horrible lace curtains. As far as food goes, however,
this small restaurant gets top marks and the rice table is
brilliant and better than what passes for traditional Indonesian cuisine in the centre of town. We recommend the
bakso ikan fish soup.QN-3, Purmerplein 5, tel. (+31) 206
36 82 15. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (8 - 15). TLGS
In 1901 Ajax moved again, but this time to the Laanweg,

which was much closer to the ferry. Unfortunately it had
no changing shed, so the boys had to rough it again.
Many supporters loved the adventure of taking the ferry
to the home games, as North was considered to be out
in the sticks. But once again Ajax left for greener pitches
in 1907, due to the building of a new housing estate,
which marked the end of Ajaxs adolescence in North.
AFC Ajax later reached their full potential at De Meer and
the Amsterdam Arena.
Swans on the aptly named Zwanenplein
Autumn 2014
39
Noord
INTERNATIONAL
BISTRO NOORD
After presiding over the super successful Te Pas restaurant
in central Amsterdam, the two owner brothers, Hugo and
Evert, decided that they needed a bigger space to fulfil their culinary dreams, so they made the logical move
across the river to the trendy NDSM wharf in Noord. You
can drop by in the morning for breakfast, coffee and freshly baked artisanal bread, grab a seat at lunch and try their
delicious pulled pork sandwich or have a proper free range
beef steak from the island of Texel for dinner. Naturally, the
wonderful atrium-style dining hall is also open for drinks
until 01:00 every day.QM-2, Mt. Ondinaweg 32, tel. (+31)
207 05 99 06, www.bistronoord.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
(6 - 16). A
DE SOEPBOER
Given its unusual name, the Soup Farmer, it comes as no
surprise that this place specialises in liquid lunches also
known as soups. Only local, seasonal ingredients are
used, but youll find a wide variety of international recipes
here from Russian borscht and Tuscan shepherds stew to
hearty Georgian harcho soup. You can also try a number
of fresh pastries and salads and all of the food it serves can
also be bought as takeaway.QN-2, Van der Pekstraat 93,
tel. (+31) 203 54 15 64, www.desoepboer.nl. Open 11:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. The restaurant is closed each
summer for one month. (4 - 8). TBS
EYE BAR-RESTAURANT
This restaurant is located inside the impressive EYE film institute. The terrace provides incredible views of the River IJ
and the wait staff are friendly and attentive, but the food
isnt as impressive as the building in which this establishment is housed. Although the homemade croquettes are
really delicious. The EYE Bar-Restaurant is in fact more of a
restaurant than a bar, although wed feel more comfortable
recommending it as a good place to have a beer or a cocktail. In any case, even if youre not planning to eat or drink
here, the modern building in the shape of an eye is worth a
visit.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 02, www.
eyebarrestaurant.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 23:30. (10 - 15). PTJAULBXW
Sunset view from the EYE Bar-Restaurant
RESTAURANT DE SMEDERIJ
The Forge is part of the adjoining Brooklyn boutique hotel
on the NDSM wharf, which has become a haven for artists,
hipsters and creative types in Amsterdam. The small, yet
refined menu offers a little something for everyone from
what the owners refer to as timeless dishes like gourmet
burgers, club sandwiches and past pesto to vegetarian
cuisine, seafood or meat like lamb and veal cooked on a
hot lava rock. Two and three-course chefs specials are
also available. The interior offers dark autumnal tones and
a modern fireplace, but if the weathers good you can sit
outside on the terrace.QM-2, NDSM-PLein 30, tel. (+31)
207 22 06 60, www.restaurant-desmederij.nl. Open
11:00 - 23:00. (12 - 24). AIBW
VERONICASCHIP
As the name would suggest, this restaurant, caf and live
music venue is hidden aboard a ship named Veronica,
which is conveniently moored at the NDSM-Pier. You can
stop by for a cup of coffee, a beer and some snacks or a
proper lunch. The chefs specialise in Dutch and international cuisine, but you can also just enjoy a sunset over
the River IJ with a glass of wine or Champagne. The vessel is also available for weddings and special events.QM2, NDSM-Pier 1, tel. (+31) 203 70 71 42, veronicaschip.
info@gmail.com, veronicazendschip.nl. Open 12:00 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. B
WILHELMINA-DOK
If youd like to admire one of the most beautiful views
of Amsterdam by night, you should reserve a table next
to the large windows of this restaurant that looks like
someones living room. That said, the wide terrace is also
an ideal spot to have a cocktail or a cool white beer (the
Secret of the Smit) with some snacks or small dishes like
roasted pumpkin and outstanding goats cheese. Sadly,
the main courses arent as good as the appetisers, but
did we mention that Wilhelmina-Dok has incredible
views?QN-2, Noordwal 1, tel. (+31) 206 32 37 01, www.
wilhelmina-dok.nl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (16 - 18).
TAULBKW
NEPALESE
MT. EVEREST
The Nepalese are among the most hospitable people
in Asia and this holds true for the staff of this genuine
Nepalese restaurant. Anyone whos ever visited the Himalayas will realise that only a handful of the spicy dishes
on the are suitable for the western palates. Try delicious
thalis and curries or the kukhura ko masu (with chicken
bones) and wash it down with a refreshing Gurkha, the
dark beer enjoyed by some of the worlds best trained
soldiers. The dcor of Mt. Everest is typically Nepalese
and the room is decorated with hundreds of colourful
prayer flags, pictures of the highest mountain in the
world and loads of burning candles.QN-2, Spreeuwenpark 3, tel. (+31) 206 32 60 55, www.mteverest.nl.
Open 15:00 - 22:30. TLGS
Noord
PANCAKES
NIGHTLIFE
DE PANNEKOEKENBOOT
This floating double-decker doesnt follow the usual ring
of canals, but takes you past all of the architectural masterpieces of Amsterdam North instead. But most of the
people on board probably couldnt care less where the
boats headed as their focus is on the enormous servings
of pancakes on offer. The main draw of this floating food
factory is the all-you-can-eat pancake meal. Bon voyage
and bon apptit!QM-2, Ms. van Riemsdijkweg, tel. (+31)
206 36 88 17, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Tours begin
at 13:30, 16:30 and 18:00 and cost as low as 10 depending on the tour. Closed Mon, Tue. TALGB
Nothing can beat central Amsterdam for nightlife, but if

youre looking for a laid back local pub devoid of tourists,
Noord might be the place for you.
SEAFOOD
STORK
Even though Amsterdams largest seafood restaurant
opened as recently as 2011, Stork already enjoys quite a
large and loyal following. Classic dishes like oysters, swordfish, sea bass, lobster and all kinds of other delicacies from
the aquatic world are given a new dimension here and the
industrial furnishings add to its potential. The lighting from
the large windows is beautiful and almost artistic and the
massive outdoor terrace is super trendy. Unfortunately, at
times the waiters seem to get lost in this enormous space,
which may mean that your delicious oven-baked dish might
need a re-heat.QN-3, Gedempt Hamerkanaal t/o 96, tel.
(+31) 206 34 40 00, www.restaurantstork.nl. Open 11:00
- 22:30. Closed Mon. (19 - 23). TA6LBXW
STEAKS
LOETJE AAN HET IJ
Located in the heart of a brand new yacht marina, this
futuristic building has been transformed into an elegant
eatery by a popular chain of Dutch steakhouses. A giant
terrace on a wooden platform offers views of the river
and an excellent place to tuck into a juicy sirloin or t-bone.
QM-1, Werfkade 14, loetjeaantij.loetje.com. PT
JALBXW
TURKISH
ELMAS
There are exactly 110 dishes listed on the menu at Elmas,
a modern Turkish restaurant in a multicultural neighbourhood that offers the best cuisine the Anatolian peninsula
has to offer. Luckily the menus neatly ordered, so its easy
to find your favourites among the many options. The only
typically Turkish elements found here are the large number of plates depicting well-known towns east of the Bosporus, which adorn the walls. Elmas is also a good option
for a big breakfast before a day of sightseeing in Noord
and a daily all-you-can-eat buffet for 6.50 is available till
noon.QN-2, Spreeuwenpark 1, tel. (+31) 206 36 33 29,
www.restaurantelmas.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. (9 - 15). iTJALBXS
CAFE DE MAZZEL
Situated in the heart of a blue collar district, this bar offers nothing exciting in terms of design. Its just a good
place for a cold beer and the most delicious bitterballs in
Amsterdam-Noord. In our opinion, thats already enough
reason to visit this simple bar. The pool table and the dartboard also seem to keep the regulars happy.QL-2, Stentorstraat 5, tel. (+31) 206 33 70 51. Open 13:00 - 19:00,
Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. L
CAFE KOFFIEHUIS DE POMP
Ever wanted to play a game of pool with a construction
worker, a white collar worker or a confused artist? This is
your chance. Located in a multicultural and heavily industrialised area, its not easy to find De Pomp, but as soon
as you enter, the friendly staff will make you feel at home.
QN-2, Grasweg 3-A, tel. (+31) 206 34 32 27.
CAFE OT EN SIEN
Entire generations of Amsterdammers have grown up
here at one of the Noords oldest and most famous pubs.
But even if the crowds have thinned out over the years, its
friendly owner is always up for a chat and will keep you
occupied with plenty of brews on draught or in bottles.
QN-2, Buiksloterweg 27, tel. (+31) 206 36 82 33, www.
otensien.nl.
CAFE T EITJE
If there were prize for the ugliest bar exterior, Cafe t Eitje
would be a strong contender. Thats also the reason why
youll be so astonished by the classic interior, which features three dart boards and a pool table. In fact, a local
dart club plays its matches at this friendly establishment
and despite the unattractive location it can get quite busy
here. Cafe t Eitje literally translates as Cafe the Egg and
its located right next to Cafetaria de Kip, which means
Cafeteria the Chicken. For a moment we wondered which
of the two came first, but we decided to leave this age-old
question alone.QN-3, Motorwal 280, tel. (+31) 206 34 17
38, www.cafeteitje.nl. G
Great views and lots of pancakes on the Pannekoekenboot
Autumn 2014
41
Noord
SIGHTSEEING
Fancy a day spent picnicking in a park or wandering around
a sculpture garden? Curious why Amsterdam Noord has
only one official museum? Read on.
BUILDINGS & ARCHITECTURE

OLD POLICE STATION
The roof alone is reason enough to visit Noords very first
police station, which was built in 1915. This classic wooden
building is a unique example of Amsterdam School architecture. The use of timber in this style of architecture is incredibly rare as the designers almost always chose to work
with brick and with remarkable results. In this particular
example the roof and its impressive chimney are the focal
points of the building that give the flamboyant structure
its unusual appearance. In fact, the bases of the chimneys
are not built of stone, but zinc. The so-called Old Police
Station is now a private residence.QN-2, Buiksloterweg.
THE GREEN DRAGON (DE GROENE DRAECK)
The old dutch name De Groene Draeck (The Green
Dragon) is derived from the historic flat-bottomed yacht
used by the Dutch royal family. Its located on the premises of the former shipyard owned by a famous family of
shipbuilders where the first polyester yachts in the Netherlands were designed and constructed. Today, the building is home to a variety of young and dynamic companies.
QM-2, Grasweg.
WOODEN HOUSES
Although most of the standard guidebooks are quick to
point out that Amsterdam has only two wooden houses left,
thats definitely not the case. Unfortunately, these so-called
travel writers never made it to the other side of the River
IJ, an indivisible part of the Dutch capital where more than
160 classic wooden homes still remain. Bundled together
in little photogenic streets alongside picturesque dikes like
the Buiksloterdijk, Schellingwouderdijk and the beautiful
Nieuwendammerdijk, all are easily accessible by bike. Most
of these forgotten testaments to an Amsterdam nearly lost
were built in the 17th and 19th centuries, the two eras in
which the dikes flourished.QM-3, Nieuwendammerdijk.
CHURCHES
BUIKSLOTERKERK
The Buiksloterkerk was built at a time when religion was
still part of nearly everyones daily life. Since 1710 this huge
building has been located in this pastoral setting, which is
a testament to the areas rural past. Another church existed on the same spot prior to the construction of this house
of worship, but today the church functions as a venue for
various cultural events.QM-2, Buiksloterkerkpad 10,
www.buiksloterkerk.nl.
KERK ZUNDERDORP
If someone ever organises a competition for the Most
Beautiful Church in the Netherlands, this white-brown
building will be a strong contender if not for its architectural splendour, then at least for its idyllic location. This
place is remarkably quiet, although the bleating sheep
and clucking chickens nearby create a very Dutch atmosphere. But a plaque commemorating World War II victims
and the bricked up windows hint that this place hasnt always been so peaceful. If youd like to enjoy this beautiful
spot permanently, its possible to reserve a space under
the poplars and chestnut trees in the cemetery. Services
are held every Sunday morning at 10:00.QM-4, Achterlaan 20, Zunderdorp, www.kerkzunderdorp.nl.
MUSEUMS
The Green Dragon in Noord
VAN DER PEKBUURT

The Van der Pek neighbourhood is probably the best
example of the genuine old Amsterdam-Noord, which
is now emerging as a popular place to live due to recent
renovations. Although a stone house with a garden in the
middle of a city seems like a rather standard situation today, a 100 years ago this definitely wasnt the case. On the
pretext of creating a green environment for every worker
in the rapidly expanding shipbuilding industry, small garden villages were built by the city. The tiny one-storey
homes with private gardens are now once again in demand and the neigbourhood is a perfect place for cyclists.
QN-2, Van der Pekstraat.
AMSTERDAM NORTH MUSEUM

There are over 40 museums in Amsterdam, yet theres only
one in Noord. Even though the history of Amsterdam North
stretches back much further than that of the settlement on
the other side of the River IJ, Amsterdams largest district
didnt get its own museum until 2009. Located in the former
public baths of the Vogeldorp, one of the characteristic garden cities of Noord, the museum tells the interesting story
of this part of the capital. The museum also offers plenty of
maps for guided or independent walking and cycling tours
that will help you explore the attractions of North and its
surrounding wetlands. An exhibition on a changing part of
the history of Amsterdam North is held every three months.
QN-3, Zamenhofstraat 28a, tel. (+31) 630 97 56 02, www.
museumamsterdamnoord.nl. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 4. TLG
Noord
PLACES OF INTEREST
DURGERDAM
After about half an hour of cycling through Noord, your
pedalling will be rewarded by the sight of one of the most
beautiful villages in the region. Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet
on the shores of the IJsselmeer, where you can view some
traditional wooden houses, a Protestant church dating
from 1687 and a landscape
of wetlands and polders.
Another attraction is Durgerdams marina, where
you can gaze at luxurious
yachts and envy the people entering the private
sailing club. Historically, the village was closely linked with
the former Zuiderzee (now IJsselmeer) and for centuries
the Durgerdammers worked in shipping, fishing and trade
in general. Today, its the quiet and the beauty of the water
that attracts visitors to this lovely little settlement.QN-5,
Durgerdam.
EYE FILM INSTITUTE
EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects
and displays film-related ephemera like photographs,
posters, soundtracks, equipment and directors archives.
Its collection spans the entire length of film history from
silent films to the newest digital productions. Every year
the collection expands as more films, Dutch and foreign,
new and old, are added. Although it was once housed in
the Vondel Park, it has moved to its new ultra-modern
building in Amsterdam North and has quickly become
the star of the docks. Called the heart of film, the huge
white spaces covering over 1200m2 provide numerous
interactive and educational film projects, while four theatres each different in size and theme bring you the
latest art-house films and old classics. Many people take
the free ferry here for the gorgeous view from its caf
and outdoor terraces. Who knew that the Central Station could look that pretty from afar? Especially at night.
QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 00, www.
eyefilm.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:15.
TJAULGBKXW
MARITIME QUARTER
What do boats like the Pollux, a magnificent steel threemasted schooner, the Amstel Botel, a former riverboat
cruise ship that was transformed into a 3-star hotel, and
the Sirius, a famous Greenpeace ship, have in common?
Nothing, despite the fact that theyre all moored adjacent
to the NDSM shipyard in the Maritime Quarter, a striking
collection of ships and buildings situated around a long
jetty. Other impressive vessels include the red Irish lightship Finley that attracts cultural party-goers from around
the city, the old Russian submarine and the wooden Mahu
M880 minesweeper. Right next to the ferry is the platform
for De Pannenkoekenboot (Pancake Boat) where hungry
diners can enjoy a cruise and an all-you-can-eat pancake
experience.QN-4, NDSM-Pier.
NDSM-WERF (NDSM SHIPYARD)

An excursion just west of the NDSM shipyard is a must
for anyone with a taste for modern architecture. For 60
years a massive shipping industry called the NDSM-shipyard wharf home. Countless vessels left these legendary
wharves, a part of the Dutch seafaring tradition that had
lasted for centuries and made Amsterdam one of the
planets economic powerhouses. But nothing lasts forever
and the shipping industry suffered greatly during the economic recession of the 1970s, which had a profound effect
on Amsterdam-Noord and its residents. In 1984, the shipyard finally closed its doors, but the misery caused by unemployment and the loss of a proud livelihood sowed the
seeds of todays rebirth. The shipyard has been converted
into a cultural venue that has become one of Amsterdams
hottest entertainment centres. Concerts, festivals and theatre are held amid a landscape of monumental industrial
buildings.QM-2, NDSM-werf.
STATUES & MONUMENTS

ATATRK MONUMENT
Turkish guest workers have played an important role in the
economic rebuilding of the Dutch nation which began in
the 1960s. They moved to the Netherlands in droves to do
the work that most Dutch people didnt want to do. During the first few years of the programme many lived here
in a residential area dotted with white wooden houses
where an abstract monument to Kemal Atatrk (Father of
Turks), founder of modern day Turkey and first president of
the Turkish Republic, was erected in 1978. A copper plaque
is inscribed with the following text in Dutch and Turkish:
Peace at home, peace in the world.QM-2, Ataturk.
THE BUTTON (DE KNOOP)
The Button is one of the most celebrated works by deceased artist Andr Volten (2002). Inspired by the industrial environment of Noord, the ex-welder specialised in
creating large brass and stainless steel objects. Whenever
he had the time he would experiment with materials he
found in the former shipyard. Although this steel giant
seems to be a simple piece of art, a closer look will reveal a
work full of depth.QM-2, Grasweg.
Submarine at Noords Maritime Quarter
Autumn 2014
43
Noord
SPORTS & LEISURE
NOORD FOR KIDS
9 GHOLES VOETGOLF AMSTERDAM

Leave it to the Dutch to come up with a new way to utilise
farmland. 9 Gholes is essentially a 9-hole golf course just
outside of Zunderdorp, but for football enthusiasts. Instead
of a club and a small ball, participants kick footballs from
one hole to the next while trying to avoid obstacles along
the way. You can also order lunch, snacks and drinks as part
of the experience.QM-4, Broekergouw 2, tel. (+31) 619 23
43 03/(+31) 628 97 44 38, www.9gholes.nl. Open 13:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
MSTERDAM MARINA
This beautiful harbour, which opened in 2013, offers slips
for 350 sailing vessels. As long as your home on the water is
between 7 and 30 metres long you can drop anchor at this
historic harbour where huge ships have been built for centuries. Extras like free internet and a good steakhouse on
the premises are a couple more reasons to choose msterdam Marina as your home away from home.QM-1, Werfkade 4, tel. (+31) 206 31 07 67, www.amsterdammarina.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. JALKW
PIRATES TOUR
Children can also be adventurous and search this wetlands
area for real treasure. Up to five children and one adult can
take a rowboat and look for clues until they find the pot
of gold. QKanaaldijk 32a, Landsmeer, tel. (+31) 880 06
44 55, www.landschapnoordholland.nl/Piratentocht.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (20/boat for 2 hours).
The picturesque lock at Nieuwendam
Noord
SHOPPING
BEEKHOVEN BIKES
This huge bike shop has been selling all manner of bicycles
and accessories for over 25 years. It also specialises in racing and electric bikes.QM-2, Draaierweg 16, tel. (+31)
206 31 71 20, www.beekhovenbikes.nl. Open 09:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
BLOM&BLOM
The two Blom brothers, Kamiel and Martijn, have a passion
for old industrial relics that most people see as junk. They
restore or repurpose these forgotten artefacts and create
incredibly stylish lighting fixtures and furniture, which you
can buy at their showroom in Amsterdam Noord.QM-2,
Chrysantenstraat 20A, tel. (+31) 207 37 26 91, hello@
blomandblom.com, blomandblom.com. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
KASTINO MOLENWIJK
Kastino offers a huge selection of cheeses including organic brands by local producers.QL-2, Molenwijk 29, tel.
(+31) 206 33 01 09, www.kastino.nl. Open 08:30 - 18:00,
Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A
KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER

If youre interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at
work here or have a look at the gallery of finished products. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment.
QN-4, Schellingwouderdijk 243, tel. (+31) 204 90 49 39,
www.marjokedeheer.com. Open Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A
LANDMARKT AMSTERDAM
Local organic farmers and horticulturists sell their produce to Landmarkt. This spacious indoor hall is heaven
on earth for foodies and anyone who appreciates fresh
food, but unlike similar organic markets the bread, meat,
fish, vegetables and other daily necessities are hardly more
expensive than the stuff youll get at a regular shop. QN4, Schellingwouderdijk 339, www.landmarkt.nl. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. TAULG
NEEF LOUIS
Find vintage furniture, designer chairs and lots of industrial
lamps in this enormous warehouse. Although you can find
some real gemse, dont expect to find any bargains.QM-2,
Papaverweg 46, tel. (+31) 204 86 93 54, www.neeflouis.
nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Autumn 2014
45
Oost
Amsterdam East, or simply Oost (pronounced oast), is an
incredibly diverse district of the Dutch capital that encompasses neighbourhoods that couldnt be more different
from one another. The recently built IJburg island, which is
still under construction, is a largely residential area that is
home to modern architecture, a main street called IJburglaan filled with cafs and shops and a public beach only
minutes from the city centre, while the areas known as
Indische Buurt and Dapperbuurt in the Zeeburg district
are populated by immigrants, students and an increasing
number of affluent Amsterdammers who enjoy its diverse
dining scene. Dapperbuurt hosts a huge market on one of
the few streets in the region not named after an Indonesian
island and is the ideal locale to try a Moroccan cookie or a
real Turkish kebab. The KNSM and Java islands in the Eastern Docklands of the city once supported a huge working
harbour, but are now mostly home to affluent Amsterdammers. Finally, a trip to Oost wouldnt be complete without
a visit to one of the trendy cafs on Linnaeusstraat by the
Oosterpark or the authentic pubs of the Watergraafsmeer
around Middenweg.
ARRIVING IN OOST
Most of Amsterdam East can be easily reached by public
transport. To visit IJburg take tram No.26 from the Central
Station. For Indische Buurt, Dapperbuurt, Flevopark and
Watergraafsmeer take trams No.7 or 14 from Leidseplein.
For KSNM and Java islands take tram No.10 to the last stop.
ACCOMMODATION
LLOYD HOTEL
The hotel has a unique concept as it offers rooms of varying styles and levels of comfort for guests of all tax brackets. Stay in a five-star suite with loads of space, a huge
bathtub and a grand piano or choose a Spartan, yet chic
room with a bed, table, water view and shared bathrooms
and toilets in the corridor. A restaurant, bar, conference
rooms, a library and free wireless internet access are also
at your disposal in the Eastern Docklands of Amsterdam.
QP-1, Oostelijke Handelskade 34, tel. (+31) 205 61 36
36, www.lloydhotel.com. 117 rooms (117 doubles 80 300). THA6LGBKW hhh
STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG
This colossal brick building complete with clock tower was
once a technical school, but since 2007 has been one of the
largest and most modern hostels in Amsterdam. Its 500
beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and six-bed
dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior with an
orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk beds, a
sink and a separate shower and toilet. Security isnt a problem as guests can only access the corridor where their own
room is located, but unfortunately youll have to stow your
important gear in lockers on the ground floor. QP-2, Timorplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31 90, www.stayokay.com.
500 beds (beds in six-bed dorms from 9, beds in fourbed dorms from 11). HAUGBKW
FOOD & DRINK

BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN
This is one of the coolest bar/restaurants youll find in East
Amsterdam. Opened as a public bathhouse in 1942, it was
finally closed in 1980s when it apparently became more
common for locals to bathe in their own homes. Today
its hip design attracts fans of good style as well as good
food and drink and its patrons can enjoy lunch and dinner not to mention tasty cocktails and uncommon beers
like Texels and Jopen. The seats by the fireplace are highly
coveted in the winter, while the purple tables and chairs
sandwiched between ivy-covered columns on the terrace are always full on sunny days.QP-2, Javaplein 21, tel.
(+31) 206 65 12 26, www.badhuis-javaplein.nl. Open
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (6 - 17). IBW
CAF KUIJPER
At the weekend its pretty much standing room only at
Caf Kuijper where the music can scarcely be heard above
the din of boisterous conversations energised by great
draught brews from the IJ, Jopen and Texels breweries. If
the crowds bring out your inner claustrophobia then go
for a smoke or some fresh air out on the terrace. The features of the interior that stand out most would have to be
the blue floral tiles, the strange, metallic lamps dangling
from chains above the bar and a huge map of Amsterdam
on the wall in the back, not to mention the golden palm
trees. QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 79, tel. (+31) 206 65 19 26,
www.cafekuijper.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 03:00. (5 - 10). AB
DE BIERTUIN
If for some reason you cant seem to make it to the IJ brewery for a tasting, then drop by the Beer Garden, which serves
a number of brews from Amsterdams famous brewery on
draught and in bottles. Other tasty offerings include beers
by Texels and other brewers from the Benelux region and all
of them are poured in a bright and airy space that is nearly
always laden with the perfume of roasting chickens that rotate on spits next to the bar. This is, of course, its speciality
and a bargain at just under 14. Note the bars slogan God
save the beer in large letters.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 29,
tel. (+31) 206 65 09 56, www.debiertuin.nl. Open 11:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB
A day in the park on IJburg island in Oost
M.Zaprauskis
Oost
DE PONTENEUR
Unlike many restaurants in the Dutch capital, this one has
an abundance of space and incredibly high ceilings confounding the notion that Amsterdam cafs have to be
claustrophobic. The refined menu is creative and offers
such delicacies as lamb tournedos and homemade wild
boar pate. A large reading table is available as well plenty
of toys and games for the kids and live music is played every second Sunday of the month. Affordable daily specials
are listed on the blackboard above the open-plan kitchen
and a great selection of beer is also available.QP-2, Eerste
van Swindenstraat 581, tel. (+31) 206 68 06 80, www.
ponteneur.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (12 - 15). ABW
DE YSBREEKER
This popular space underwent a huge renovation in 2010
and today its difficult to categorise. Its a caf, a cocktail
lounge, a reading room, a bar and a proper restaurant all
in one. You can enjoy fresh oysters on the terrace overlooking the Amstel, sip an espresso inside while surfing
the net or order tasty international cuisine in the evening
with friends. The incredible interior of high vaulted ceilings, stained glass, hardwood floors and huge windows
is impressive and the selection of local Amsterdam brews
in bottles by t IJ and De Prael keeps us coming back for
more.QO-2, Weesperzijde 23, tel. (+31) 204 68 18 08,
www.deysbreeker.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00. (8 - 20). AB
LUDWIG COFFEE BAR
Although many eating and drinking establishments on
this street are either fast food joints or ethnic cafs, Ludwig has a trendy, modern feel to it and could easily hold its
own in Amsterdams more fashionable city centre. Wide
wooden benches, coffee brown walls covered in photos
and a watercolour of a civet cat, leather chairs and industrial-style lamps hanging from incredibly high ceilings all
make this a pleasant place for an excellent cappuccino and
a slice of carrot cake or maybe a goat cheese panini. The
staff is also friendly and attentive and an outdoor terrace is
available in the summer.QP-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat
547, tel. (+31) 646 41 80 31, www.ludwig-coffeebar.nl.
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ABW
POMPSTATION
If youre looking for a hip eatery in Oost, youll find few
better places than Pompstation. Although not exactly a
traditional steak house, it does offer an extensive menu
of meat dishes including a whole kilos woth of Cote de
Boeuf and a dry aged Hereford from Uruguay. Naturally,
these extraordinary slabs of beef come with a considerably higher price tag, but the unbeatable ambience is also
included in the bill. The Pump Station is in fact a fully functioning industrial monument dating back to 1920, which is
worth a visit for its unique interior alone.QP-2, Zeeburgerdijk 53, tel. (+31) 206 92 28 88, www.pompstation.nu.
Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. (19 - 25). TALGBKW
Take a stroll through the Dapper Market in Amsterdam East
SIGHTSEEING
DAPPERSTRAAT MARKET (DAPPERMARKT)
This neighbourhood market in Amsterdam East has been
bringing a diverse community together since 1910. One of
the oldest markets in the city, the Dappermarkt offers hundreds of street stalls run by a wide variety of merchants
speaking languages from around the globe, from Morocco
and Turkey to Suriname. Although not exactly the place
to find that ideal kitschy souvenir, this authentic marketplace sells all manner of household goods, cheap clothing,
second-hand fashion, fresh produce and local specialities
like smoked fish and traditional herring. It was also voted
the best market in the Netherlands in 2006 and 2007.QP2, Dapperstraat, www.dappermarkt.nl. Open 10:00 16:30. Closed Sun.
T NIEUWE DIEP DISTILLERY
Located in a renovated pumping station on the water
near the entrance to the Flevopark, this small distillery is
partly owned by former archaeologist Kees Filius who has
a passion for the Dutch tradition of distilling spirits. Disappointed that many of the mainstream Dutch distillers had
forsaken the ancient art of distilling that had been practiced during Hollands golden age, he and his business
partner decided to create their own jenevers, bitters, eau
de vie, liqueurs and fruit jenevers according to long forgotten recipes that were unearthed from old books and
documents. After years of trial and error the t Nieuwe
Diep Distillery now produces roughly 100 of its own spirits made in small batches at this wonderful and historic
location where even Rembrandt once painted its sublime view. A tour of the facilities is available every Friday
at 16:00, but you can visit its tasting room on weekdays
and sample the goods for yourself or buy a bottle to bring
home as the perfect Amsterdam souvenir. This is a truly
unique local experience that should not be missed.QP-2,
Flevopark 13, tel. (+31) 204 65 02 22, www.nwediep.nl.
Tasting room: open May - September 15:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00, closed Mon; October - April 15:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. Distillery tour
every Friday at 16:00. B
Autumn 2014
47
West
Amsterdam West is both a residential and commercial district of the city sandwiched between four parks, the Vondel
Park, Rembrandt Park, Erasmus Park and Westerpark, so
youre never far away from a green space for a picnic, some
good cycling or just a relaxing time spent on a patch of
grass. The area around Overtoom is legendary for its restaurants that serve anything from Ethiopian to Iranian cuisine,
not to mention its numerous shops, many of which specialise in cutting-edge interior design items for homes and offices. Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat and Bilderdijkstraat
are also home to cosy cafs and pubs, while the Westergasfabriek in the north of the district is a former industrial
estate that has been converted into a creative cultural park
full of galleries, clubs and restaurants - an absolute mustsee in West!
ARRIVING IN WEST
Amsterdam West is right next to the city centre, so if you
dont mind a brisk walk you can get there on foot from the
Central Station in about 30 - 45 minutes. Of course, not
everyone wants to drag their luggage around town, so just
take tram No.1 to reach Overtoom. For De Clercqstraat and
Admiraal De Ruijterweg take tram No.13. For the Westerpark and Westergasfabriek take bus No.22 from the station
to the last stop Spaarndammerbuurt and then walk the rest
of the way.
ACCOMMODATION
CONSCIOUS HOTEL VONDELPARK
Located near Amsterdams favourite urban oasis, the Vondel Park, this hotel attempts to be as green and sustainable
as possible without sacrificing the important things in life,
namely style and luxury. The hotel claims to be more hip
than hippy and once youve seen the designer accommodation youll most likely agree with this description. While all
of the beds are made from natural materials, if you choose
one of the premium rooms youll also get an ergonomic
coconut fibre mattress as well as an iPod docking station.
All rooms are equipped with flat screen TVs, writing desks,
private bathrooms with showers and free wi-fi.QS-4, Overtoom 519, tel. (+31) 208 20 33 33, www.conscioushotels.
com. 81 rooms (standard from 109, premium from 119,
family from 152). PAW hhh
Outstanding coffee and architecture in West
FOOD & DRINK

DAAR BAAND
This wonderful Iranian restaurant is absolutely littered with
Persian nick-nacks making it difficult not to let your eyes
roam about the place. Paintings of long-gone noblemen
(and -women) and scenes from ancient Persepolis cover the
walls while authentic music sets the tone for an evening you
wont forget. Try delicious lamb kebabs, a host of vegetarian
dishes or do as we did and order the mahiche (lamb stew
with baked apricots, spicy potatoes and mixed vegetables).
We also cracked a smile when we noticed that cognac and
calvados were listed under desserts on the menu. You can
also smoke a shisha for only 8!QS-4, Overtoom 350, tel.
(+31) 206 18 54 81, www.irandaarbaand.nl. Open 17:00 24:00. (14 - 18). ABX
DOSA
Although this authentic restaurant serves familiar tandoori, biryani and curry dishes, it also claims to be the
only place in town to serve South Indian dosa a kind of
pancake made of rice and lentil flour stuffed with all kinds
of fillings. It also specialises in a wide variety of vegetarian
cuisine, but you can also order plenty of lamb, chicken and
seafood in this elegant space decorated with wood carvings. We particularly enjoyed the mild and creamy Goastyle king prawns.QS-4, Overtoom 146, tel. (+31) 206
16 48 38, www.dosaindianrestaurant.nl. Open 16:00 23:30. (13 - 18). VS
PACIFIC PARC
Although located in a huge space in a renovated factory,
this place manages to pull off a Pacific luau theme with
fish lamps, an indoor barbecue pit, tiki-style furniture and
a colourful chandelier about the size of a Volkswagen. During the day its a good place to hang out with the family,
especially at the picnic tables outside, but in the evening
its best to leave the little ones at home as Pacific Parc
becomes a club with live DJs and dancing. You can order
standard salads and sandwiches for lunch and full meals
for dinner, but dont expect any Polynesian staples.QS-2,
Polonceaukade 23 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 204 88
77 78, www.pacificparc.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 15). AB
RANARA
Its no mirage. The lonely brick building at the far end of
the Westergasfabriek is a cosy oasis from the otherwise
bland surroundings of empty space on and boring residential housing blocks. Let the aroma of North African spices
emanating from the open-plan kitchen lure you inside for
a culinary experience you wont soon forget. Although you
can try traditional tagines as main courses, you might get
a broader introduction to this exotic cuisine by ordering
the chefs special mezze menu that includes five different
dishes. In the summer you can also sit outside on carpets
and enjoy a mint tea in the sun.QS-2, Polonceaukade 40
(Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 204 86 71 09, www.rainarai.
nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (20). B
West
SIGHTSEEING
Historic apartment at Het Schip Museum
M.Zaprauskis
NIGHTLIFE
GOLLEMS PROEFLOKAAL
This is the last of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in operation, but the bartender did hint that its other former
locations in the city centre would eventually re-open, so
keep your fingers crossed. In the meantime you can take a
10-minute tram ride from the Central Station (tram Nr.1) to
this shrine dedicated to beer. If they dont have your favourite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that Gollem has
it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar. Dutch
snacks can also be had as well as some daily specials written on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all
the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shelves
of glasses.QS-4, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31) 206 12
94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AB
VIBES
Vibes is a pleasant exception to the rule that cocktail bars
in Amsterdam have to be pretentious and expensive.
Owner Marco has followed his own vision rather than using a snazzy advertising agency to shape his brainchild.
The result is a colourful mix of modern and trendy styles
and drinks for an average of about 6, which is cheap,
by local standards anyway. The selection of almost 30
cocktails offers something for everyone, but we recommend the Good Vibes.QS-4, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 137,
tel. (+31) 207 89 52 09, www.wix.com/vibes137/vibes.
Open 10:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 03:00. LEN
WESTERUNIE
The Westergasfabriek isnt your standard Amsterdam club
located near another touristy square. Located next to the
green Westerpark just outside the city centre, this massive culture and entertainment complex spans several
former factories from the 19th century, with multi-floored
industrial spaces of over 2500 square metres. You can
find a party for every audience including popular music
festivals such as Pitch (in July), house fests like Straf-werk
and queer-friendly Funhouse parties. Try not to get lost
in the maze that is the WesterUnie building. The cool
people who hang out here would enjoy that too much.
QS-2, Klnnenplein 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 84 84 96, www.
westerunie.nl. AB
HET SCHIP MUSEUM

One of the crowning achievements of Amsterdam School
architecture, this unusual building was erected in 1919 as
proof that affordable working-class housing could not
only be functional, but stylish. The historic edifice is still
inhabited today, so you have to take a guided tour of the
museum, which begins at a former post office decorated
with funky tile work characteristic of this Dutch design
movement. Guides will lead you around the building
pointing out interesting features like the bay window that
looks like a cigar, little windmills on the faade that symbolise the rural workers who came to work in the citys factories and the iconic tower, which is meant to be a beacon
of socialism. You can also view an apartment that looks
as it did in the early 20th century and take in an exhibit
dedicated to Amsterdam School architecture and its most
renowned adherents.QS-2, Spaarndammerplantsoen
140, tel. (+31) 204 75 09 24, www.hetschip.nl. Open
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 7.50. A
SHOPPING
BRITISH GENERAL STORES
This place stocks a massive range of genuine British goodies including HP sauce, Heinz baked beans, Jelly Babies
and great English sausages. If shes not too busy, the owner is usually happy to have a cup of tea with her customers.
QS-4, Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 94, tel. (+31)
206 83 61 91, www.britishstore.nl. Open 10:30 - 18:00,
Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
FRIDAY NEXT
Its both an interior design shop and a caf all in one so
you can drink a peppermint tea while perusing hand bags,
couches and lamps.QT-4, Overtoom 31, tel. (+31) 206 12
32 92, www.fridaynext.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. AKW
HIP WONEN
The name Hip Living says it all. Youll find truly fashionable
furniture and home accessories here.QS-4, Overtoom 412,
tel. (+31) 206 16 13 00, www.hipwonen.nl. Open 10:00 18:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. A
MARQT
This posh supermarket offers an excellent selection of
fresh produce including lots of organic food, but remember to bring your plastic as Marqt doesnt accept cash.QT4, Overtoom 21, tel. (+31) 204 22 63 11, www.marqt.
com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. AS
RETRO IN- & OUTSTYLES
This vintage shop is crammed to the rafters with secondhand overcoats, dresses, sweaters, scarves and even bridal
accessories.QS-4, 2e Constantijn Huijgensstraat 57, tel.
(+31) 206 83 41 80, www.retrostyles.nl. Open 12:00 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Autumn 2014
49
Zuid
Amsterdam Zuid, or South, is perhaps best known for its
large concentration of superb museums, which is the reason so many hotels are also located here. It will come as
no surprise then that the citys very own Rodeo Drive, P.C.
Hooftstraat, which is occupied by brands such as Bulgari,
Vuiton and Chanel, is surrounded by 4- and 5-star accommodation in Zuid. Just east of the so-called Museum
Quarter youll find the hip De Pijp district full of bohemian
cafs, fun bars and unique shops. Its also home to the Albert Cuyp Market, packed with stalls selling pretty much
anything. Just take tram No.2 or 5 to reach the heart of the
district.
ACCOMMODATION
EASYHOTEL AMSTERDAM FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT
The cheap, no frills airline EasyJet has also branched out
into cruise ships and even hotels, which is desperately
needed in Amsterdam where room prices are often ridiculously and undeservedly expensive. Located in the
bohemian De Pijp district of Amsterdam South, this hotel
provides tiny rooms with WC and a glass shower in the
room, so if you have a roommate he/she better not be shy.
Not unlike the airline, you have to pay for any extra amenities such as TV, wireless internet access and housekeeping
services.QH-10, Van Ostadestraat 97, danny.vanspall@
amsterdamfb.easyhotel.com, www.easyhotel.com. 80
rooms (doubles from 59). PZJAULGW
MAXIME BOUTIQUE HOTEL
If youd like to stay in a trendy, yet surprisingly affordable boutique hotel on Amsterdams swankiest shopping street where the citys wealthy park their Ferraris
and Porsches, then look no further than Maxime. All of
its rooms are decorated in black, white and beige tones
and include flat screen TVs, free internet access, minimalist design and private bathrooms with marble vanities.
Even if youre not planning on staying here, you can drop
by its purple ground floor brasserie for coffee and cake or
a proper meal with some of the Dutch capitals glitterati.
QF-10, P.C Hooftstraat 63, tel. (+31) 206 76 02 32, info@
maximeamsterdam.nl, www.maximeamsterdam.nl. 12
rooms (attic room from 79, doubles from 89, deluxe
from 99). ARLGK hhh
Fresh seafood at the Albert Cuyp Market
M.Zaprauskis
FOOD & DRINK

BAZAR
Located in a huge space that was once a church in the middle of Amsterdams most famous street market, Bazar offers
a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle Eastern and
North African dishes too numerous to mention here. Suffice
it to say, that you can get anything from kebabs, falafel and
hummus to exotic seafood and lots of cuisine with tangy
harissa sauce. Dine under enormous Moroccan-style lamps
on the second floor balcony or below multicoloured flashing Christmas lights on the ground floor. The food is refreshingly affordable and the atmosphere is friendly and casual.
Despite the Islamic dcor, plenty of beer, wine and spirits
can be ordered at the central bar.QH-8, Albert Cuypstraat
182, tel. (+31) 206 75 05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.com.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12). A
DE TAART VAN MN TANTE (MY AUNTIES PIE)
The list of Dutch (and foreign) celebrities alone whove
tasted the sweet and incredible delicacies served in this
tiny, colourful place in Amsterdam South is more than impressive. Time and again, its two owners manage to think
of something innovative and delicious from edible clothing to the kitschiest wedding cakes in the city. Its almost
a shame to destroy these beautiful creations by eating
them. Even the window display will get you salivating, but
note the opening hours, or thats all youll get to see.QG10, Ferdinand Bolstraat 10, tel. (+31) 207 76 46 00, www.
detaart.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. TABKS
SPANG MAKANDRA
When we walked through the door of this ethnic eatery
we noticed that most of the limited seating was occupied
by Surinamese immigrants giving us a clear indication that
we had come to right place for authentic cuisine. Ignore
the cheesy illuminated paintings on the walls of blue
waters and palm trees and get stuck into a roti (meat and
sauce with a huge pancake), chow mein noodles and nasi
(baked rice). In short, this is a great local venue to eat large
portions of tasty Surinamese cuisine, but dont forget to
bring cash.QG-10, Gerard Doustraat 39, tel. (+31) 206
70 50 81/(+31) 650 52 58 01, www.spangmakandra.nl.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. S
THE OYSTER CLUB
Located in the historic stadium that hosted the 1928 Olympic Games as well as its fair share of Ajax football matches,
The Oyster Club, not surprisingly, specialises in fresh seafood, sushi and, of course, oysters. Not unlike the stadium itself, the restaurant and lounge is incredibly spacious and offers stylish dcor as well as a huge outdoor terrace when the
weather cooperates. Opened in 2013, it has quickly become
a local hotspot on weekend nights when hip and affluent
Amsterdammers drop by for DJs and excellent cocktails.
QOlympisch Stadion 35, tel. (+31) 205 70 84 00, www.
theoysterclub.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (30 - 50). ALBW
Zuid
Take a break at a caf on Museumplein
M.Zaprauskis
SIGHTSEEING
ALBERT CUYP MARKET (ALBERT CUYPMARKT)
This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp
district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery,
fresh seafood like crab and lobster, flowers, lingerie, souvenirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more
things you cant do without as wells as plenty of food stalls.
QH-9, Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
If youd like to see how one of the worlds most popular
beers is made and sample the finished product at its ultramodern bar, then look no further than the Heineken Experience, which truly is an experience. Although this tasty
brew, which is distributed in over 170 countries around the
globe isnt produced on the premises, you can take a tour
and learn about the companys evolution from its founding in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current status as a multinational brand. Youll reach the climax of the tour where you
can enjoy two cold beers with dozens of other Heineken
fans. Exit the experience via the Heineken shop where you
can get pretty much anything with the Heineken logo on
it. QG-9, Stadhouderskade 78, tel. (+31) 205 23 92 22,
www.heineken.com/experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30
(last tour at 17:30). Admission: 17. AU
HOUSE OF BOLS EXPERIENCE
Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one
the worlds oldest spirits makers, not to mention one of
the oldest firms on record. Its renowned jenever recipe
dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the
British roughly 25 years later where it was modified to
English tastes and produced locally as gin. Although the
venerable company moved away to a location near The
Hague in 1969 it opened this amazing tasting experience
and bartending school near the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam in 2007. The award-winning Genever Experience
showcases the roughly 40 liqueurs it sells in 110 countries
around the world as well as the wide varieties of jenevers
it produces. .QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel. (+31) 205
70 85 75, www.houseofbols.nl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Fri
12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 11.50. A
RIJKSMUSEUM
This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block
and is finally open to the public again after years of renovations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts
and of course an incredible collection of the nations
best old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and
Steen. Scenes depict everything from biblical tales and
windmilled landscapes to portraits and illustrations of
17th-century family life, not to mention exotic scenes
from Hollands far flung Golden Age colonies. Some of
the museums most famous paintings like Rembrandts
The Jewish Bride and The Night Watch are also described in
detail in laminated information cards, so you can take your
time and discover interesting facts about each of these
canvases. QF-9, Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel.
(+31) 206 74 70 47, www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Admission: adults 15, under 18 free.
STEDELIJK MUSEUM
The Netherlands most important museum for modern and
contemporary art was in a coma for an unexpected eight
years, but is now open to the public. The addition of a new
building has doubled the size of the museum and the Stedelijk is now the proud owner of the largest exhibition space
in Holland. It has no windows, which makes this 1100m2
area also suitable for displaying digital and video art. The
interior of the old and new buildings have been completely
integrated, so youll hardly notice where the 100-year-old
edifice ends and the modern one begins. If you lose your
bearings just remember that the old part houses the permanent collections, while the new building exhibits temporary work.QF-10, Museumplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11,
www.stedelijk.nl. Open closed. Admission: adults 10,
below 18 years free entrance. AK
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
Very few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this
incredible museum. Its vast collection includes roughly
200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise
most of the works produced by the troubled artist in his
short 10-year career. After dabbling in religious vocations
and art selling, he finally embarked on his true calling in
1880, which is where the museums permanent exhibit begins. Those familiar with only his later works will no doubt
be surprised to see the dark greys, browns and blues used
in Van Goghs earliest still lifes of cabbages and clogs, not
to mention some of the subject matter such as a smoking
skeleton. The vibrant paintings for which he is now so renowned only appeared later during his time in Paris when
he discovered colour. Although the museum is indeed a
shrine to all things Van Gogh, it also displays a varied collection of works by world-famous artists from early mentors like Anton Mauve and Jules Dupr to such icons of
Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin, Renoir,
Czanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from which he drew inspiration. QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. (+31) 205 70 52
00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Fri 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and
under free. AUKW
Autumn 2014
51
Zuidoost
Zuidoost is Amsterdams most multicultural district. More
than 130 nationalities live here and these diverse cultural
backgrounds are reflected in its many festivals with foreign
roots like the Summer Festival, which is spread across five
weekends in July and August. And despite its many modern skyscrapers, Zuidoost, or de Bijlmer as the locals call it,
can often feel like a small village. It boasts several parks and
green spaces including the Gaasper Park, the crown jewel of
them all. Its also a fairly new area, its first houses having been
built as recent as 1968. Recent development around Ajaxs
stadium, the Amsterdam Arena, has led to a cultural renaissance, not to mention an economic boom. Amsterdams biggest shopping centres and megastores are almost all located
here and the Heineken Music Hall and the brand new Ziggo
Dome are both state of the art concert halls attracting world
renowned talent from around the globe. Take in a concert,
spend the day shopping or just walk around and experience
the diversity of this vibrant area that most tourists never see.
ARRIVING IN ZUIDOOST
Zuidoost can be easily reached by metro, train or bus. The
easiest way to get here is to take a 20-minute metro ride
from the Central Station. Yellow line 54 begins at the Central Station and ends at Gein, while green line 50 passes the
western part of the city and has the same destination. Red
line 53 follows the yellow line until Van der Madeweg and
then travels east until it reaches the Gaasperplas.
ACCOMMODATION
FLETCHER HOTEL AMSTERDAM
This huge hotel is so modern it looks like it belongs in a science fiction movie. To find it just look for the shimmering
blue polka-dotted column rising up from the Schepenbergweg. But the futuristic theme doesnt end there as all
of the rooms also look like accommodation on the Starship
Enterprise, but much more luxurious. That said, the seethrough shower tube in the middle of the room might not
be to everyones liking or perhaps just the opposite. You
can also enjoy excellent food and drink on the top floors of
the building in either the Pi Sky Lounge or the Pi Sky Bar. In
short, the hotel is an absolute must if youre into cuttingedge design.QU-2, Schepenbergweg 50, tel. (+31) 203
11 36 70, www.fletcherhotelamsterdam.nl. 120 rooms
(doubles from 109). PHAFKW
The future has arrived at the Fletcher Hotel Amsterdam in Zuidoost
HOSTELLE
Tired of bleary-eyed men whove had too much to drink
or smoke leering at you as you return to your hostel?
Dont feel safe staying at a dingy backpackers hovel that
caters to stag parties or dodgy drifters? No problem. This
wonderful hostel designed by women for women offers
stylish accommodation for ladies whod like to avoid the
lesser representatives of the male species. Stylish private
rooms include ensuite facilities and amenities like shampoo and toiletries, while the dorms have in-room lockers
and a shelf next to each bunk bed. Each room has a different theme so you can pretend that youre on the African
savannah or in a Chinese palace. A rooftop terrace is available.QU-2, Frankemaheerd 2, tel. (+31) 207 70 35 04,
www.hostelle.com. Breakfast: 5. AW
FOOD & DRINK

ASIAN FANTASY
The name Asian Fantasy might conjure up titillating ideas,
but the location certainly doesnt. This Chinese restaurant
is hidden away in a narrow alleyway off a popular shopping street, so if youre looking for a cosy place for a meal,
you might as well keep on walking. On the other hand,
the food is better than average and although a first look
at the menu wont exactly supply any surprises, the chef
can turn any dish into something spectacular. You wont
find microwaved stir fries with lots of sticky sauces made
to suit Western tastes, but proper Asian dishes with authentic flavours. We recommend the spicy soups.QV-1,
Bijlmerplein 561, tel. (+31) 206 96 82 42. NK
LA PLACE AMSTERDAM ZUIDOOST
Youll find this large food court at the V&D department
store only a stones throw from the A9 motorway. La Place
specialises in fresh produce varying from sandwiches with
generous fillings to large portions of stir-fry dishes and the
quality of the home-made soups is also better than average. Unfortunately, youll have to put up with the atmosphere of the adjacent motorway, a view of the American
golden arches and businessmen in a hurry who are keen
to use the free wireless internet.QU-2, Muntbergweg 22
- 24, tel. (+31) 203 65 53 30, www.laplace.nl. Open 08:00
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. ALKSW
STARBUCKS
Four stools, six tables, a leather couch and a simple seating
area: thats all the dcor this Starbucks has to offer. And
of course a lot of good coffee. However, if youd like to
sit outside, thats possible as well in this stations refreshment room. Its also a good place for people not addicted
to caffeine, as it has a wide selection of freshly squeezed
smoothies and spicy drinks like chai tea. If youre simply
looking for a snack, you could always gorge on some of
the many cakes and pastries in the display cases, but you
should avoid the seats near the front door on cold days,
unless youre Inuit.QU/V-1, Arena Boulevard 618, www.
starbucks.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00. ZTAULBSW
Zuidoost
T PLEINTJE
Few pubs represent multicultural and tolerant Amsterdam
society better than t Pleintje. The Heineken on draught is
poured by friendly gay staff and on the other side of the bar
youll find an attractive mix of the many nationalities that
live in this part of town. The red and white Ajax flag leaves
no doubt about what football team is supported here and
numerous TV screens continually show MTV images and
football matches.QV-1, Harriet Freezerstraat 104.
SIGHTSEEING
BIJLMER HANS MOOREN EXPERIENCE
Hans Mooren has been giving guided bicycle tours of
the Biljmer neighbourhood for over 15 years to dispel the
myth that this is an area of town plagued by social problems. You can also take a tour on a Segway or a scooter and
you can customise your route to include ethnic eateries,
mosques or art and architecture.QV-1, Kruitberg 1005a,
tel. (+31) 624 85 67 09, www.bijlmerexperience.nl.
GAASPER PARK (GAASPERPARK)
This spacious park occupies the northern shore of Lake
Gaasperplas, a man-made body of water that was created
when the land was excavated to provide sand and earth
for the new building projects in the area. The park came
into being in the late 1970s and early 1980s and hosted
the massive Dutch Floriade in 1982, an enormous flower
and gardening event that is held once every 10 years. A
large campground is also available in the park.QV/W-1,
Between Loosdrechtdreef and Provincialeweg.
THE KISS (DE KUS)
Some people only see two winding steel pipes, while
others immediately detect the deeper meaning that was
intended by artist Jeroen Henneman when he designed
The Kiss. The idea came to him as early as 1972 during a
trip through Mexico, but his simple, yet powerful design
was only erected on this public space at the Bijlmerdreef
10 years later in 1982. Its also one of the few statues that
actually looks best when Dutch skies are completely grey,
meaning most days.QV-1, Bijlmerdreef.
WORLD OF AJAX TOURS (AMSTERDAM ARENA)
If youre into football, a visit to the Arena, the hallowed
home of the players in red and white, might be a good
option. You can join a guided tour of the stadium in Zuidoost five times each day after youve paid the 14.50
fee, which is, of course, much cheaper than a ticket to
an actual match. The tour lasts abut an hour and you
finish back where you started. It predictably ends at the
club shop where you can express your newly acquired
love for Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white souvenirs.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13
36. Open 11:00 - 16:30 (except on event days). Admission: adults 14.50, children 5 - 12 years 9.50.
Take metro line 54 from the Central Station to the
Amsterdam Bijlmer Arena stop and then follow signs
to Main Entrance E.
SHOPPING
IKEA
This Scandinavian phenomenon needs no introduction.
Find all the beds, baths, sofas, furniture and Swedish meatballs you crave at its Amsterdam location in Zuidoost.QU/
V-2, Hullenbergweg 2, tel. (+31) 90 02 35 45 32, www.
ikea.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AS
MEDIA MARKT
This is probably the largest electronics shop in Amsterdam
and it also has some of the longest opening hours in the
city. Apart from all the necessary audio/visual equipment,
Media Markt also has a wide variety of beauty and wellness gadgets.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 123 - 125, tel. (+31)
205 64 16 16, www.mediamarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
TAUL
PALAIS DE FROMAGE
Sandwiches and small French baguettes are the bestselling items at this popular cheese shop. There are almost
always queues at the front counter, even though its not
exactly a small place, which is a good sign. Its also a good
place for nuts, dried goods, dairy products and even gourmet chocolate and the Chinese owners have managed to
create an authentic Dutch atmosphere here right down to
the tacky dcor.QV-1, Bijlmerplein 88, tel. (+31) 203 65
01 08. AULS
VILLA ARENA WOONMALL
With a whopping four floors (and two extra parking ones),
Villa Arena is the biggest speciality shopping centre of its
kind in the country, featuring 60 shops selling everything
you could possibly need or want thats related to home
decorations and interior design. This futuristic building
opened in 2001 and its 75,000m2 are just begging to be
explored. Plenty of space is available in the parking garages and if youre exhausted from all the shopping, the
selection of restaurants is far better than the food court
or fast food venue at your average shopping mall.QU-1,
De Entree 1, tel. (+31) 800 84 55 22 7, www.villaarena.nl.
Open 10:00 - 17:30, Mon 13:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTA6ULGBKSW
Jeroen Hennemans sculpture, The Kiss
Autumn 2014
53
Gay Amsterdam
Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel
destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands became the first country in the world to officially recognise
same-sex marriages. With four distinctive gay districts in
the city centre, rainbow flags on nearly every other street
and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the
place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what
can be dubbed Amsterdams Gay Village. All areas are within easy walking distance of one another. The prime area
is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime
hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants.
Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with
two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as
a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district
(with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the
Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs).
NIGHTLIFE
INFORMATION
CAF ROUGE
Red like a cheap brothel, this unpretentious late night spot
attracts a diverse crowd willing to party and score. A live
DJ tries to please the crowd with a mixture of gay classics,
Eurovision and modern pop. The walls filled with photos
of Dutch and international royalty add to the campy atmosphere where anything can happen. Anything can
also mean nothing, but on weekends and special days like
Queens Day its a safe option for fun.QG-6, Amstel 60,
tel. (+31) 204 20 98 81, www.caferouge.nl. Open 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed. PJNG
GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (GAYTIC)

This place offers lots of information about everything
youd like or need to know about the gay scene in Amsterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and
publications. You can also buy stuff at its Gays&Gadgets
shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
SAUNAS
THERMOS SAUNA
One of the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a
legendary gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies,
students and the occasional geriatric all mix in the labyrinth upstairs and the wet compartments on ground floor
that include a swimming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and
whirlpool. The dcor is still very much stuck in the 1970s
and about as cosy as the interior of a nuclear power plant,
but most men seem to focus on other things, which explains the cruisy atmosphere, especially at the weekend.
An attached hair salon and beauty parlour is also available
for those in need and free condoms can be found at the
bar.QE-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 58, office@
thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission: under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26
and over 19. PJBKXC
Show some respect for the gay community
CAFE LELLEBEL
Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein youll
find an alternative to the squares legendary nightlife,
which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and
meat markets. This self-proclaimed drag show bar is
a cosy haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a
cutting edge design bar so popular with the gay scene
these days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and
gays have enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and
it always makes a good showing at the gay canal boat
parade each year and is the place to go for karaoke every
Tuesday night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204
27 51 39, www.lellebel.nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 04:00. A
CLUB CHURCH
This is Amsterdams ultimate cruising club with two floors
of play and dance areas that offer changing theme parties and DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the
venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are available
for use including slings, private cabins and even a Saint
Andrews cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry
and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it
as wild or rough as youd like it, but its probably not the
best place to have your first gay experience and definitely
not an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with
your straight business colleagues.QF-7, Kerkstraat 52,
www.clubchurch.nl. Open Tue, Wed 20:00 - 01:00, Thu
22:0004:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:0004:00.
Closed Mon. PJNGX
MONTMARTRE
Always packed at the weekend, Montmartre can be a
bit claustrophobic, but those who enjoy lots of bodily
contact and flirting with the hot young boys in their
teens and twenties that come here are in for a real treat.
Cheesy pop and Eurovision make Montmartre a heaven
for all Dutch queens, so bring your attitude, get drunk,
croon with Sandra Kim and Kylie Minogue and dance the
night away. You can also use its happy hour from 18:00
- 20:00 to get in the mood.QB-3, Halvemaansteeg 17,
tel. (+31) 20 620 76 22, www.cafemontmartre.nl. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
PJNGX
Gay Amsterdam
PRIK
Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal
place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother,
and have a drink to start the night off. Prosecco on tap,
sexy cocktails, tasty finger food a live DJ and a good
vibe will probably make you linger around longer than
you might have planned. It was voted several times as
the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why.
Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02,
www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00. PJNGB
REALITY
Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail
from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and
other hot destinations, so its a bit alternative compared to the
other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa, merengue and calypso is also available for those who are fed up with
the regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to
see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their toys
are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31)
206 39 30 12, www.barreality.freehomepage.com. Open
20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJNG
TABOO
This bar boasts two big screens showing cheesy music
videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly and attentive and a comfy smoking room on the first floor
which seems to be a winning combination especially
on a street that needed a breath of fresh air. Two happy
hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 - 01:00) has also
helped to build up a steady and happy clientile. Sundays
offer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20.00!QB-3,
Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207 75 39 63, www.
taboobar.nl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJNGBX
THE QUEENS HEAD
At the head of the Zeedijk the Queens Head is an old time
gay favourite with a loyal clientele. Friendly bar staff, chandeliers, drag nights and hilarious bingo nights on Thursdays are all major draws. Downstairs a cosy backroom with
a romantic canal view is also available and live DJs spin
music at the weekend. In short, its a lovely place to actually meet other people.QB-1, Zeedijk 20, tel. (+31) 204 20
24 75, www.queenshead.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJNGBX
VIVELAVIE
An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian
bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still alive
and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere
with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their
friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails and dance in the
late hours in this Art Deco-style space. The menu offers
tapas, tosties and other finger food and the music varies
from lounge to gay classics. QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel.
(+31) 206 24 01 14, www.vivelavie.net. Open 12:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PJNGBX
OLDEST GAY BAR

Although
Amsterdam
is now one of the most
gay-friendly cities in the
world, it wasnt always
such a pillar of tolerance.
But one woman had an
incredible influence on
the Dutch capital and
its residents. Bet van
Beeren was born in 1902
and spent her childhood
in the Jordaan district of
Amsterdam, before opening her legendary bar t Mandje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk in 1927.
Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a
gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay, straight, bi or
otherwise - could have a drink, provided they behaved
themselves. In those days the police could revoke a
bars license for promoting what we today would call
a gay lifestyle, so Bet kept a close watch on her patrons
making sure there werent any obvious displays of affection between same-sex couples with perhaps the
exception of Queens Day (now Kings Day) a tradition that began after WWII. On this magical day pretty
much anything was possible and t Mandje gained a
reputation as the ultimate place to celebrate this Dutch
holiday. That said, Bet usually took an interest in her
patrons and if she observed anyone misbehaving, she
would penalise them by cutting off an article of clothing with a butchers knife, hence all of the ties nailed
to the ceiling.
As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attractions of her bar and thats hardly surprising given her
appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman
who drank like a fish and smoked like chimney, she was
also known for her risqu wardrobe, which included a
leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few
eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that
eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for
her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a
typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her
lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gaining the respect of her patrons and neighbours who
often called her the Queen of the Zeedijk. When she
passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard table of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects
to her over the course of two days.
The bar finally closed its doors in 1983, but Bets niece,
Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help of her
husband in 2008. Caf t Mandje B-1, Zeedijk 63,
tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.cafetmandje.nl. Open
15:00 - 01:00, Tue 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
Autumn 2014
55
Coffeeshops
Whether you smoke the herb or not, coffeeshops in Amsterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose
the right one and it'll be an experience you'll never forget.
Choose the wrong one and you you'll probably forget that
you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many different types of coffeeshops, for different kinds of people.
Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan monasteries (once you're stoned) and others like super-modern
cafs. And in the summer, many have outside seating,
sometimes near the canal.
Coffeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long
history (Mellow Yellow was the first one in 1973), even
during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been
imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas,
proof enough that the system works (for the 'evil' criminal
gangs anyway).
Given the city's status as a major shipping hub and its
maze of canals, it's not hard to imagine how drug trafficking in this city was an attractive option. Coffeeshops could
easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the
many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same
manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today,
they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic option.
After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of
coffeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided
here. They are selected from across the city, so that you're
never at any point far away from one of these exceptional
Dutch institutions.
HIGHER EDUCATION
For everyone with an
interest in cannabis or
questions about cannabis, the Cannabis College is a must-visit. Not
only can you learn about
the risks and benefits of
cannabis, the staff at the information centre will gladly
advise you where to buy good weed and which coffeeshops you should avoid. Cannabis College is a nonprofit organisation aimed at educating the public about
cannabis in an unbiased, scientifically backed, manner.
Their library is a gold mine of information about cannabis, particularly if youd like to learn about the plants
medical potential. Cannabis College also provides
training for staff members of several coffeeshops and,
believe it or not, they have even trained Dutch police
officers! All the information is free,
as well as a visit to the small, laboratory-like garden downstairs. The
worlds only college of cannabis
education is located in the heart
of the Red Light district at B-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 124, www.
cannabiscollege.com.
SYMBOL KEY
O Casino
T Child-friendly

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
COFFEESHOPS
Although the Netherlands was once known as a safe
haven for people who enjoy the herb, conservative politics and a national law have sent many a foreign toker
looking for less turbulent shores to have a joint. Officially the law states that only residents of Holland may
buy and smoke soft drugs like marijuana and hash at
coffeeshops in the Netherlands. Although initially enforced in other areas of the country (but not now), the
wise and commerce driven Amsterdammers have done
what they usually do when they dont like a law. The
city and the local police have turned a blind eye to pot
smoking fearing a catastrophic loss of tourism euros.
Basically, what were saying is that you can go to any of
the following places and smoke to your lungs content.
ABRAXAS
Down a side-street off one of the main boulevards in
Amsterdam Centrum, youll find this surprisingly cosy
medium-size coffeeshop spread over several narrow
floors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it
includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly
mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well
organised and efficient staff make this an attractive option for a relaxed (but brief) break while touring the citys
many delights. Longer stays at this coffeeshop will permit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfortable smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14,
abraxas@abraxas.tv, www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 01:00. J
AMNESIA
The first thing to be said about this coffeeshop is that its
part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup
Awards and therefore should be on the map for any connoisseur. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant
surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the canal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a
pleasant dcor of purple swirls and gold and black as well
as equally pleasant and efficient staff. A choice of games
and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coffeeshop is
well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this
a prime summer coffeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel.
(+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Coffeeshops
BARNEYS
This coffeeshop review is more about the three establishments which are part of Barneys coffeeshop empire and all
located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking distance
of each other. One venue is a coffeeshop, the other is a bar/
restaurant and the final one is a souvenir shop/bar and
smoke-room, meaning that in between these three places,
you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts content in an attractive environment with a pleasant dcor. Popular particularly with tourists, it provides its customers with arguably
one of the best choices in life; get high and eat, get high and
drink, or get high and have a coffee. And to get high with
a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices to be
made here, but once your desires have been met, it is always
good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide you
with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/
lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropriate).QD-3, Haarlemmerstraat 105, tel. (+31) 204 27 94 69,
www.barneys.biz. Open 07:30 - 01:00. P
BULLDOG NO. 90
Arguably the first ever coffeeshop in Amsterdam, this establishment combines cannabis history and getting high
with an excellent central location. With seating overlooking the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the
canal outside, this coffeeshop is an ideal place any time of
year. The dcor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper
articles and the orange (youll understand once you get
here) tells the story of this venerated establishment, which
gives off a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with internet
access are available (for a fee) for any last-minute travel arrangements or any web addicts and the staff are friendly
and helpful. Finally, the herb purchasing area is seperate
from the drinks area. A small, but important detail when
you want to get your smoke on in a hurry.QB-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64, www.
thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB
EMBRACING THE HAZE

When experimenting with soft drugs in Amsterdam
one should also bear in mind that there are usually two
types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC content
and creates a strong stoned or high feeling; and nonhaze which has a somewhat milder effect. The price
difference may sometimes be quite substantial between these two types, as haze weed plants (usually
strong sativas - for those in the know) are bigger and
harder to grow properly than non-haze plants (usually
strong indicas). If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a
regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze to get your
bearings and then perhaps try a haze joint to see how
you feel. For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily consumption), haze weed will show you how truly stoned
you can get, but beware as some types may stick you
to your chair and you may drool (well, maybe not the
second part). Just remember to have fun!
Amsterdam In Your Pocket

is looking for sales people
If youre interested in a unique and rewarding career with
Europes leading publisher of locally produced city guides,
please contact +31 (0)6 537 991 46 or theo.leerintveld@
inyourpocket.com. We guarantee good commissions and
flexible hours.
DOLPHINS
You wont find a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam
or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an
overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as
your guide you can make a selection from the affordable
and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many
high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The constant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make
you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a
stool isnt your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and
the friendly staff can ensure all your needs are met down
here underwater, although you may have to swim to the
surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel.
(+31) 206 25 91 62. Open 10:00 - 01:00. GBXW
EASY TIMES
With more then 40 wonderful choices on weed and hash,
this is smokers paradise. If you prefer a bong or vaporizer
to reach a trippy experience, settle down in the Arabian
style room in the back. A shining red carpet, in normal life
only to be walked on by VIPs or other arrogant twats, leads
the way to this Walhalla on Earth. And if you got problems
getting high, just watch one of the four giant plasma
screens where CNN, BBC and all those other news stations
keep on broadcasting in what fucked up world we live in.
Funny and handy souvenirs like a pink glass elephant ashtray (were not kidding) can be purchased from the small
booth at the entrance.QPrinsengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206
26 57 09,. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JNXSW
Autumn 2014
57
Coffeeshops
FUNNY PEOPLE
This coffeeshop is a bit dark and on the small side, but the
candles, comfy seating and cushions all ensure a relatively
cosy experience and its located near the train station. The
dcor has no particular theme, but is still pleasing to the
eye even before a smoke. A TV and some board games are
available as well as a few snacks. A good choice to get a
quick high while waiting for a train or hotel check-in.QB1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 24, tel. (+31) 206 23 86 63. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. JGX
LA TERTULIA
Open since 1983, one of the oldest coffeeshops in Amsterdam is also one of the most appealing and original. Apart
from the relatively ordinary weed menu, the environment
which the friendly mother and daughter create here, includes extensive detailed artwork on the outside as well
as the inside, providing trippy experiences at every corner.
The selection of drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and
toasties is more extensive than in most coffeeshops in
Amsterdam and the many plants, as well as the multiple
levels and patio furniture make one feel as if they were picnicking in a garden. Try the delicious home-made weed
brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht 312, tel. (+31) 206 23 85
03, www.coffeeshopamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B
IN YOUR POCKET PRESS

Brutally honest.
Wall Street Journal
Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In
Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by
comparison.
The Independent
Solid, reliable information on everything from where
to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72
hours in a city.
LION OF JUDAH (BUSHMAN)

Beware! If you cant relate to the Rastafarian way of life,
you may not enjoy this coffeeshop. If, however, youd like
to embrace your inner Marley, then by all means pay a visit
to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history dcor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving
you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to
Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products
on offer here, mon.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 47, tel.
(+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
MAGIC
This charming North African-style coffeeshop boasts
computers with internet access and a pool table, along
with other games, as well as large comfortable seating areas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if
you decide to spark up, particularly after the scenic walk to
get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may
find that this place is more appropriate when not alone.
QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open
10:00 - 01:00.
NOON
Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make
this an ideal coffeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals,
chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one
of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV
and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as
the usual smoking paraphernalia. Its a good stop before a
night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22,
tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.
The Guardian
In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English
language writer who lives locally. All information is also
available on the publishers website.
Sueddeutsche Zeitung
The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned
out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and
other travel hazards. They have become a European
publishing phenomenon.
International Herald Tribune
Tintin caught in the act!
Lya Cattel
Coffeeshops
PARADOX
Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coffeeshops, but
these days only a quarter of these remain, including Paradox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served as a haven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists never set
foot in this quiet place, even though its more than worth
a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by promising
young graffiti artists and the best works will make you feel
like youre hallucinating even when youre not stoned.QD7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206 23 56 39, www.
paradoxcoffeeshop.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JNX
RESIN
Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green interior, this coffeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite
during a visit to Amsterdam. Reflecting the theme of the
famous Red Light District, a keen eye may be able to discern sex swings, but dont worry. Other seating is available
in the form of sofa benches lining the wall. There are TV
screens to catch your gaze and music with an electronic
edge drones on in the background. The staff here arent
particularly friendly, but then again thats fairly typical of
Amsterdam coffeeshops where the stoned customer is
rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel. (+31) 204 22 98 38.
ROKERIJ IV
The latest addition to the Rokerij chain, this coffeeshop can
be found in the scenic Jordaan district. Featuring coloured
candles, wooden tables, cushion seating and a pleasant
interior adorned with both Tibetan and Moroccan details,
this coffeeshop could be the ideal place to play a game or
two while making use of some of the bongs provided. The
herbal menu here is exceptional and includes cannabis cup
varieties and a good selection of drinks like fresh OJ.QE-7,
Elandsgracht 53, tel. (+31) 206 23 09 38, www.rokerij.org.
RUSLAND
Rusland provides a pleasant break from the coffeeshop
norm, although to no extreme extent. The extensive
choice of 40 teas provides a world of fragrances to complement the other pungent herbs you can purchase here.
A successful but original mix of Russian and Moroccan
dcor, a common cushioned seating area complete with
a view onto the street and a friendly cat make this place
an excellent environment in which to relax alone or with
friends.QB-2, Rusland 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 94 68.
SIBERIE
Visit this coffeeshop on a Friday or Saturday and youll be
able to enjoy some live DJing with your smoke in a cosy atmosphere. Candles, art work, flowers on the tables as well
as good music all contribute to the success of this converted garage. Some food is available, games are provided
and the large wooden tables give all the space necessary
to enjoy your time here without inconveniencing other
patrons. Unlike its Russian namesake, its located in the urban centre of the city.QA-1, Brouwersgracht 11, tel. (+31)
206 23 59 09, www.coffeeshopsiberie.nl. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PEGXW
SMART & HEAD SHOPS

AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER
Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just
buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious
Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European
country where its legal to import cannabis seeds you can
ask the knowledgeable staff here everything there is to
know about cultivating this amazing plant. The shop also
sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts made
from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to your
home if you live in the EU.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel.
(+31) 207 37 00 60, www.amsterdamseedcenter.com.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag of
3 seeds 20 - 30. JA
SENSI SEEDS
Sensi Seeds has been developing cannabis seeds for over
25 years and thanks to shops like this, growing your own
cannabis plant has never been easier. First-time growers
can find several stable feminised seeds that grow in nearly
any climate, while experienced horticulturist can choose
special sativas and indicas. The staff can help you choose
the most suitable seeds, advise you on how to grow the
plant and inform you about any possible legal issues.
Seeds can also be bought online, but shipment is prohibited to most countries outside the EU (the only exceptions
being Switzerland, Serbia and Guyana).QB-2, Oude Doelenstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 26 29 88, www.sensiseeds.
com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at A-1, Nieuwendijk 26.
Autumn 2014
59
Lifestyle Directory
Need to wash some clothes while you check your e-mail
or find a doctor to bandage a sprained ankle? Looking for
a place to entertain your children or maybe a pharmacy to
keep your hangover in check? Youll find the answers here.
BOWLING
LOVERS POWERZONE
Take advantage of six modern bowling lanes or challenge
your friends to a game of laser tag.QG-4, De Ruyterkade
153, tel. (+31) 207 60 76 00, www.loverspowerzone.nl.
Open 16:00 - 22:00, Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 01:00,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Bowling: 22.50 27.50/hour, Laser tag: 9 - 16. TJG
DENTISTS
TANDARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT
QF-6, Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, info@
tadh.nl, www.tadh.nl. Open , Mon, Thu, Fri 09:00 20:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
FOOTBALL MATCHES
Whether due to the magic of its illustrious past, the
excitement of the famous arena or just as part of a
football pilgrimage, Ajax still draws tens of thousands
of tourists every year. There are a high number of season ticket holders, so only a few thousand seats are for
sale for each game, which can be bought via the official
Ajax site (www.ajax.nl). Matches are seldom boring in
large part due to Section 410. This part of the stadium
is populated by mostly young fans that are the teams
most die-hard supporters. This is in stark contrast to
the official so-called core support of the F-side, which
you can find behind the goal. Theyve recently been
overshadowed by the young supporters of 410. Photo
courtesy of Ajax Football Club
Amsterdam Arena Arena boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11
13 33, www.ajax.nl, www.amsterdamarena.nl.
HAIRDRESSERS & BARBERS

HEAD 2 HEAD
This is a barber shop for real men where electric shavers
are used more often than scissors. A haircut will set you
back about 15.QO-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat 46-D,
tel. (+31) 206 92 73 78.
KINKI KAPPERS
Youll feel like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon.
QD-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31) 206 25 60 00, info@
kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 21:00. Closed Sun.
LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS

LAUNDRY & THINGS
Self-serve washing machines starting at as low as 3 per
load.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 30, tel. (+31) 614 03 28 03.
Open 08:00 - 22:00.
WASH & COFFEE
Just like the name says.QG-9/10, Quellijnstraat 90, tel.
(+31) 204 70 36 79, www.wash-coffee.nl. Open 07:30 18:30. Closed Tue.
Upcoming matches at Amsterdam Arena:

05.10
25.10
01.11
05.11
22.11
06.12
10.12
Ajax vs. PEC Zwolle

Ajax vs. Go Ahead Eagles
Ajax vs. FC Dordrecht
Ajax vs. FC Barcelona
Ajax vs. SC Heerenveen
Ajax vs. Willem II
Ajax vs. Apoel Nicosia
AA
AA
AA
AA
AA
AA
AA
LIBRARIES
CENTRALE BIBLIOTHEEK
This modern glass building between the Central Station
and the NEMO Science Centre not only has an interesting
location but also books in English, internet access and its
open late.QH-3, Oosterdokskade 143, tel. (+31) 205 23
09 00, info@oba.nl, www.oba.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
MASSAGE
The opulent Tuschinski Cinema
M.Zaprauskis
PHOTIC MEDICAL CENTER AMSTERDAM

Different types of massages or acupuncture can be arranged here from 20. QD-8, Kinkerstraat 102 HS, tel.
(+31) 206 12 82 77. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
XING XING MASSAGE SALON
All kinds of massages from foot to full body.QS-4, Overtoom 95, tel. (+31) 204 89 30 88, www.xingxingmassage.
webs.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30.
Lifestyle Directory
EXPAT MEDICAL CENTRE
The English-speaking doctors here offer medical attention, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they
accept EU health cards, too!QD-6, Bloemgracht 112, tel.
(+31) 204 27 50 11, expatmc@planet.nl, www.expatmc.
net. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. On Saturdays
and Sundays by appointment only.
SPA AMSTERDAM ZUIVER

This exclusive spa located in the Amsterdam Forest provides a wide variety of pools, hot tubs, saunas, hamams
and lounge areas both inside the complex and outside as
well. Naturally, a range of massages, beauty treatments
and wellness procedures are also on offer.QN-5, Koenenkade 8 (Amsterdamse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 10, info@
spazuiver.nl, www.spazuiver.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. ADw
PHARMACIES
SWIMMING POOLS
DA APOTHEEK LEIDSESTRAAT
The pharmacy can be reached during the day via the
entrance of the DA-drugstore at Leidsestraat around the
corner.QF-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76, tel. (+31) 204 22 02
10, www.da-apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. Open
09:00 - 21:50. Closed Sat, Sun.
DAM APOTHEEK
Centrally located pharmacy next to the Dam.QA-2, Damstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 43 31, damapotheek@ezorg.nl,
www.dam-apotheek.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:30. A
HET MARNIX
Despites its small size, Het Marnix boasts two swimming
pools, a spa, a health club and a restaurant.QD-5, Marnixplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 24 60 00, info@hetmarnix.nl,
www.hetmarnix.nl. ABKC
SPORTPLAZA MERCATOR
A huge swimming pool, fitness centre and gym.QR-3,
Jan van Galenstraat 315, tel. (+31) 206 18 89 11, info@
sportplazamercator.nl, www.sportfondsen.nl. Open
13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Fronemanstraat 3, tel. (+31) 206 65 08 11. AC
MEDICAL & WELLNESS
SPAS & BEAUTY

CITY STREET SPA
The Japanese-style City Street Spa is Amsterdams latest
attraction among the spa set. Apart from the usual treatments, you can also hire the whole place for 60/hour.
QG-8, Prinsengracht 764, tel. (+31) 202 21 41 02, www.
thecitystreetspa.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
MIRACULOUS AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam first put its name on the map of Europe not
with its trading prowess, its port or with prostitution,
but with a supposed miracle thats still celebrated today on March 12. The story goes that in 1345 a man was
gravely ill and summoned a priest to administer communion, but the man was so sick that he couldnt keep
anything down and kept vomiting, so the clergyman
advised the women of the household to throw any
expelled holy liquids on the fire, which they did. The
next morning they discovered a perfectly formed host,
or communion wafer, in the fireplace, which seemed
impervious to the surrounding flames. A miracle was
declared, a chapel was built on the site of the house
and pilgrims began streaming into Amsterdam. Today
pilgrims of a different sort still converge on the city and
quite a few probably also vomit here, but we doubt
that the shoarma and French fries that come up have
any religious significance. Its also interesting to note
that the chapel was later destroyed and the building
that now occupies its place houses the Amsterdam
Dungeon. Sources also dont seem to mention what
became of the man who started all of the commotion
with his holy heaving.
TATTOOS & PIERCING

HANKY PANKY TATTOOING
Tattoos in the Red Light district.QB-2, Oudezijdsvoorburgwal 141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www.
hankypankytattoo.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
TATTOO PALACE
The tattoo artists have been at it here since 1989.QB-3,
Reguliersdwarsstraat 91, tel. (+31) 206 38 44 48, calvo@
xs4all.nl, www.tattoopalace.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 19:00.
VETS & PETS

MEDISCH CENTRUM VOOR DIEREN
A specialist clinic that also handles emergencies.QB2, Isolatorweg 45, tel. (+31) 207 40 06 00, www.
mcvoordieren.nl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 24hrs.
Bridges in the Grachtengordel
M.Zaprauskis
Autumn 2014
61
Amsterdam for kids

Although we wouldnt recommend a stroll with the kids
around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a cautionary tale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the little ones. Here are some of the best.
AMSTERDAM MARIONETTE THEATRE (AMSTERDAMS MARIONETTEN THEATER)
The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre performs plays
in its small theatre using traditional wooden marionettes. Performances are usually in Dutch, but due
to the visual and musical nature of the acts, most
kids wont care about the language barrier. You can
also take a backstage tour for a behind the scenes
look at the marionettes and costumes.QB-1, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8, tel. (+31) 206 20 80 27, info@
marionettentheater.nl, www.marionettentheater.
nl. Admission: adults 16, children 7 - 14 years
7.50. Opening times vary. TJ
BOUNZ
What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in training has now been transformed into a large trampoline
centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back flipping
and flopping on 32 connected trampolines. Its a lot of
fun, but if youre over the age of 30, muscle aches are
guaranteed!QM-2, Willinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44
81, info@bounzsport.nl, www.bounzsport.nl. Open
13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 5.50/hour. TLN
BOUWSPEELPLAATS T LANDJE
Believe or not, but dads arent allowed in this childrens
paradise. The management decided that their adult male
presence was just too stern and would prevent kids from
being, well, kids. t Landje, which is located on a peninsula in Rembrandt Park, offers arts and crafts classes and
other activities for children.QN-3, Rembrandtpark, tel.
(+31) 206 18 36 04, imuls@impuls.nl, www.impuls.nl.
Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
TIBC
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO

Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers
look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives
will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhibition
entitled Miracle or Science, which is dedicated to fun topics like predicting the path of a pendulum or watching a
stone float in the air will be on display until October 26
and the center will offer free admission on October 4 and
5 for Science Weekend. You can also bring your own lunch
and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the top
floor terrace caf that offers a great view of the city. A good
museum shop is also available where you can buy science
experiments and other great souvenirs for kids.QH-4,
Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO.nl,
www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission: 15, children under four free. AK
TUNFUN SPEELPARK
In what looks like a disused underground metro station
near the Portuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a childrens
paradise. If you cant find it just follow the steady stream of
families, childrens parties and school excursions into the
depth of this enormous playground that includes slides,
climbing labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines
and other atrractions. The screams of the children can
be a bit overwhelming at times but internet access and
cans of beer at the caf help keep the cacaphony of prepubescant chatter at bay. Adults are only admitted with
children and only have to pay an entrance fee for their kids.
QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www.
tunfun.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: kids 7.50,
adults free. KW
DE PIJP PETTING ZOO

This petting zoo has been entertaining children in De Pijp
since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 different species
of animals from goldfish and rodents to turtles and ducks.
The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and sheep
are also on hand.QH-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel.
(+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo.
nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T
RACE PLANET AMSTERDAM
This is the largest go-kart centre in the Netherlands with
two indoor race tracks, a so-called wall-of-death, bowling, miniature golf, a game zone and a indoor playground.
QHerwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206 11 11 20, amsterdam@
raceplanet.nl, www.raceplanet.com. Open 13:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Admission: 15.75 for a
12-minute race. TAL
Science is never boring at Science Center NEMO
Zandvoort aan Zee

Sometimes theres nothing better than replacing the hustle and bustle of a large city with the peace and tranquility
of the seaside. Zandvoort is not only the closest North Sea
beach to Amsterdam, but its also one of Hollands most
beloved summer resorts. The view of the North Sea will
never disappoint and the fact that the beach at Zandvoort
is one of the safest and cleanest in the country only adds
to its popularity. But the beach isnt the only reason why
people come here in droves.The town exudes a cosiness
and a laid-back atmosphere that cant be beat, while the inspiring landscapes of the dunes at the Zuid-Kennemerland
National Park are just magical. Hollands most famous race
track is also located in Zandvoort and its seaside cafs and
restaurants provide an unforgettable dining experience.
ARRIVING IN ZANDVOORT
Most visitors reach Zandvoort either by train or by car. From
Amsterdam Central Station trains depart every half hour
toward the Zandvoort aan Zee Station. The journey takes
about 30 minutes and after a short interruption at Haarlem
Station, the train brings passengers through the landscape
of dunes at Zuid-Kennemerland to the beach town on the
North Sea. During the summer months, an extra service is
provided to and from Haarlem every 30 minutes. A oneway ticket to Zandvoort costs 5.30 from Amsterdam or
2.10 from Haarlem. Travelling by car to Zandvoort is a bit
more complicated. Follow the highway to Haarlem, navigate through the city and find either the N201 or the N200.
Both roads connect Haarlem with Zandvoort aan Zee.
ACCOMMODATION
AMSTERDAM BEACH HOTEL ZANDVOORT
This stylish hotel offers tastefully decorated accommodation in the city centre only a short walk from the beach.
Each of its rooms has little in the way of embellishments
with the exception of the walls, which are made of used,
painted wooden planks giving singles, doubles and triples
a beachy, shabby chic look thats more than appropriate
given its seaside location. Some rooms have balconies
with sea views but all have comfy beds, free wi-fi and
flat screen TVs. A great restaurant is also available on the
premises.QBadhuisplein 2 - 4, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel.
(+31) 232 01 03 02, www.amsterdambeachhotel.nl. 35
rooms. A6KW hhh
THE SANDS HOTEL
Located in a refurbished brick building only a stones throw
from the beach and train station, this charming hotel is
run by Linda and Harry who go out of their way to make
your stay a special one. Rooms are on the small side, but
offer simple, modern design, private bathrooms and lots of
natural light. Apartments with kitchenettes are also available, but we recommend the double with its own terrace
or a room with a sea view. A top-notch restaurant is also at
your disposal on the ground floor.QBurgemeester Engelbertsstraat 70, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 238 22 37 43,
www.thesandshotel.nl. 14 rooms. TAKW hhh
EATING & DRINKING

BOUDEWIJNS VISSERVICE
A seaside boulevard wouldnt really be a seaside boulevard without a proper fish stall. Boudewijns Visservice
fulfils this duty at the very centre of the Strandweg next
to Holland Casino, and they do this very well. All types of
North Sea creatures can be bought here and its a good
place to stop by for fishy snacks like kibbeling and herring.
Fries, sandwiches, tea and coffee can also be had here.
QStrandweg, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 73 06
95, www.boudewijnsvisservice.nl. (3 - 4). S
CLUB NAUTIQUE
The fact that this large beach club is sponsored by a brand of
champagne suggests that Club Nautique is one of the trendiest of Zandvoorts beach pavilions. The food on offer is certainly excellent and, together with a glass of bubbly, guests
can expect great cuisine at this stylish establishment. Its open
throughout the year and during the colder months large
windscreens allow you to enjoy the outside terrace without
the chilly North Sea winds.QBoulevard Barnaart 23, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 71 57 07, www.clubnautique.nl.
Open 08:30 - 24:00. (18 - 20). A6BXW
DE LACHENDE ZEEROVER
All aboard The Smiling Pirate ship to eat pancakes like a hungry buccaneer setting sail for a feast. This friendly family
restaurant with a Caribbean theme is an excellent place to
bring the kids. Games and activities for children are available
and pancakes always go down well with the youngsters.
That said, the long tea list, the bottles of rum and a popular
outside terrace make De Lachende Zeerover a good choice
for adults as well.QStrandweg 1, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel.
(+31) 235 73 87 40, www.delachendezeerover.nl. Open
10:00 - 22:00. (10 - 12). BKX
EVI RESTAURANT
Located in an historic brick building in the centre of Zandvoort, EVI specialises in French-inspired cuisine presented
in a modern fashion so get ready to try unique culinary
treats from seafood and sweetbreads to eel and American
steaks as well as some vegetarian options. Naturally, you
can pair your meal with an excellent selection of wine and
you can also dine out on the terrace. Bear in mind that EVI
is only open in the evenings.QZeestraat 36, Zandvoort
aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 73 66 80, www.restaurantevi.nl.
Open 17:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (25 - 30). AB
Wildlife is a common sight on the outskirts of Zandvoort aan Zee
Autumn 2014
63
Zandvoort aan Zee

PLACES OF INTEREST
AMSTERDAMSE WATERLEIDINGDUINEN
The area of dunes just south of Zandvoort is a protected nature park and a great place to do some hiking in a gorgeous
Dutch coastal landscape. The reserve offers a mixture of
dunes and waterways, which have been used to purify the
local water supply since the 19th century. Quite simply, the
fine sand of the dunes naturally filters rain water. In October you can also join a special tour of the dunes to watch
deer compete for lovers during the mating season. Contact De Oranjekom visitor centre or VVV Zandvoort aan
Zee at (+31) 235 71 79 47 or info@vvvzandvoort.nl to arrange a guided hike. The nature park has four entrances
and from Zandvoort the nearest entry point is just south of
the De Duinrand (Zandvoorselaan 130) restaurant. The De Oranjekom visitor centre is located near the eastern entrance
at Eerste Leijweg and you can learn more about the water
purification process here. Tickets can be bought at the De
Duinrand restaurant, De Oranjekom or at the tourist office in
Zandvoort. Keep the ticket with you as forest rangers might
ask you to show it.QZandvoortselaan 130, tel. (+31) 206
08 75 95, www.waternet.nl. Admission: 1.50/person. 6
SIGHTSEEING
BUNKER TOUR
Due to their close proximity to the strategic port of IJmuiden,
the dunes just south of Zandvoort were heavily fortified by
the Nazis during World War II. As part of the Atlantic Wall defence system, the German occupiers built several anti-aircraft
guns and hundreds of bunkers in the area. Most of the Nazi
bunkers are now covered by sand, but enthusiastic local
guides know how to find these concrete remnants of the war.
You can go inside several bunkers, including a former commanders bunker, and the beautiful nature park itself is worth
the visit, but today youll probably see an occupier of another
sort: deer. Guided tours start every Thursday at 10:30 at the
entrance gate of the nature park next to the Duinrand restaurant. Bus No.80 stops right in front of the restaurant at the Waterleiding/Nieuw Unicum stop. Book a tour at the Zandvoort
tourist office.QZandvoortselaan 130, Zandvoort aan Zee,
tel. (+31) 235 71 79 47. Admission: 6.50. T
ANNE FRANK IN ZANDVOORT

Not unlike many Amsterdammers, Anne Frank and her family
took frequent trips to Zandvoort
an Zee before the war. The Zandvoort Museum and the Anne
Frank Foundation have created a
small exhibition of photographs
that show the family enjoying their holidays at Hollands most popular beach resort. Drop by the museum
to see original snapshots from the Frank familys personal albums. More info at www.zandvoortsmuseum.nl.
DTM RACES IN ZANDVOORT

The sensational DTM (German
Touring Car Masters) hits the
track at Circuit Park Zandvoort
at full speed on September 27
and 28. Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz will all fight for every inch of asphalt this
year in Zandvoort, whose race track has a long history
just as storied as those in other parts of Europe including Germanys legendary Hockenheim. Watch all of the
racing action live at Circuit Park Zandvoort. For more
information visit www.circuit-zandvoort.nl.
NATIONAL PARK ZUID-KENNEMERLAND
Zuid-Kennemerland is one of Hollands most beautiful
national parks. The nature reserve is located just north of
Zandvoort and the protected area covers 38km2 full of
sand dunes, forests and wetlands. With over 100 different
animal species, its an excellent place to spot birds and if
youre lucky you might even see wild deer, hedgehogs or
red foxes. A visitors centre called Kennemerduinen is located
at the main entrance to the National Park, which is a side
street of Zeeweg (N200), just north of the Kennemerduinen bus stop. You can also get here by taking bus No.81
from the railway station in Zandvoort or by taking the sixminute train ride to Overveen. Then walk about 15 minutes
west from there along Zeeweg.QZeeweg, Overveen,
www.np-zuidkennemerland.nl. Admission: free. T
SAND SCULPTURES
Zandvoort hosted the European
Championship of Sand Sculpting
back in August 2014, but the sculptures created by eight different artists from eight European nations
including the UK, Ireland, Italy, Holland, Ukraine, Russia, Spain and the
Czech Republic will still be on display
at various locations throughout the
town until November 2014. This years theme was Music
& Dance and the winner was last years reigning champion, Fergus Mulvany (see photo).QZandvoort aan Zee,
www.zandsculpturenroute.nl.
ZANDVOORTS MUSEUM
Learn about the history and identity of this intriguing
North Sea town at the municipal museum of Zandvoort.
Although the displays are primarily aimed at the local population, Zandvoorts Museum frequently hosts temporary
exhibitions that may be of interest to foreign visitors as
well. This summer, the museum will host and exhibition illustrating Anne Franks family holidays in Zandvoort shown
via family photos.QSwalustraat 1, Zandvoort aan Zee,
tel. (+31) 235 74 02 80, www.zandvoortsmuseum.nl.
Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: adults
2.25, children under 18 free. THU
Zandvoort aan Zee
SHOPPING
DE KAASHOEK
A Dutch town just isnt a proper Dutch town without a cheese
shop. De Kaashoek is a cosy little establishment that sells all
kinds of cheeses and a variety of other, typically Dutch, delicacies. Its assortment includes homemade soups and tasty
sandwiches.QHaltestraat 38, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31)
235 71 50 00. Open 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. S
POLE POSITION
This is one of those shops that can bring out the little boy in
every man. If youre into Formula 1 collectors items including caps, shirts, miniature cars and watches, then make a
pit stop at Pole Position.QKerkstraat 18, Zandvoort aan
Zee, tel. (+31) 235 73 73 55, www.poleposition.nl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
USEFUL ADDRESSES
TOURIST INFORMATION (VVV ZANDVOORT)
Start your trip to the seaside resort of Zandvoort at the
tourist information office where you can pick up some
brochures, get yourself some souvenirs and fire all
questions you have at the knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff. The tourist office is located in the centre of
town, in a small side street off of Kerkstraat.QBakkerstraat 2/b, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 71 79 47,
www.vvvzandvoort.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
September
27 - 28
The sensational DTM hits the track at Circuit Park Zandvoort at full speed and will bring some
real touring car thunder to Zandvoort
28
Shanty and Marine Song Festival. 20
choirs will perform these songs at different locations throughout the centre and on the beach
October
18 - 19 Formido Final Races. Circuit Park Zandvoort hosts the finals of the Dutch Power Pack as
well as the FIA GT1 World Championship, SRO GT4
Cup and the FIA GT3 European Championship
November
1-2
National 50+ weekend. If youre over 50
then enjoy activities throughout the weekend. All
visitors will receive a goody bag full of offers and
other surprises
16
Welcoming of Sinterklaas. See what
presents Santa Claus has brought with him and
what he has in store for the little ones
23
Annual Holiday Market in the centre of
Zandvoort. Over 300 stalls selling all kinds of gifts,
souvenirs and crafts. Live music, a visit from Sinterklaas and lots of other activities will make the
market a must-see!
For more info visit www.vvvzandvoort.com
Autumn 2014
65
Netherlands Map
Venue Index
&Samhoud Places 16
Abraxas 56
Albert Cuyp Market 51
Amarylles 15
Amnesia 56
Amstel Botel
36
Amsterbike 6
Amsterdam House
Hotel Eureka
11
Amsterdam Marionette
Theatre 62
Amsterdam Museum 25
Amsterdam North
Museum 42
Amsterdam Passenger
Terminal 7
Amsterdam Seed
Center 59
Amsterdam
Wiechmann Hotel 11
Anne Frank House 25
Antiquariaat Lont 30
Antiquarian Hoogkamp
30
Artis Royal Zoo
28
Asian Fantasy
52
Atatrk Monument 43
Bagels & Beans
12
Balls 22
Barkode 21
Barneys 57
Bazar 50
B&B De Noorderling 38
B&B Durgerdam
Countryside 38
B&B Het Oude Dijkhuis
38
Beekhoven Bikes 45
Ben & Jerrys
13
Biblos 18
Bijlmer Hans Mooren
Experience 53
Bird 15
Bistro Noord
40
Black Tiger Bar
18
BlinQ 14
Blom&Blom 45
Blue Boat Company 24
Bo Cinq
21
Boom Chicago
22
Bounz 62
Bourbon Street
22
Bouwspeelplaats t
Landje 62
Brewers Canal
26
British General Stores 49
Brood NDSM
38
Brooklyn Hotel
36
Brouwerij De Prael 24
Brouwerij t IJ
19
Bubbles & Wines
23
Buiksloterkerk 42
Bulldog No. 90
57
Caf Brandon
20
Caf de Ceuvel
38
Caf De Doelen
20
Caf de Klos
12
Caf de Koe
18
Cafe De Mazzel
41
Caf de Oranjerie 20
Caf de Tuin
22
Caf de Zwart
17
Caf Emmelot
18
Caf George
17
Caf Heffer
19
Caf Kobalt
17
Cafe Koffiehuis De
Pomp 41
Caf Kuijper
46
Cafe Lellebel
54
Cafe Ot en Sien
41
Caf Proust
14
Caf Rouge
54
Caf Schiller
17
Caf Slijterij Oosterling
20
Cafe t Eitje
41
Cafe t Sluisje
38
Caf Van Zuylen
17
Caf Wheels
17
Casa Rosso
18
Club Church
54
Club Escape
21
Coffee Mania
34
Concerto 30
Conscious Hotel
Vondelpark 48
Daar Baand
48
Dapperstraat Market 47
De Bakkerswinkel 14
De Bierfabriek
19
De Biertuin
46
de Bijenkorf
30
De Bijenkorf Kitchen 12
De Buren
14
De Druif
20
De Pannekoekenboot
41
De Pijp Petting Zoo 62
De Ponteneur
47
De Soepboer
40
De Taart van mn Tante
50
De Ysbreeker
47
Dolphins 57
Door 74
21
Dorpsplein Sloten 35
Dosa 48
Durgerdam 43
Dutch Design Hotel
Artemis 34
Eastern Islands
26
EasyHotel Amsterdam
Ferdinand Bolstraat 50
Easy Times
57
Eetcaf-Terras
Oostoever 34
Elmas 41
Entrepotdok 26
EYE Bar-Restaurant 40
EYE Film Institute 43
Female & Partners 30
Fjllrven Brand Center
30
Flesch Records
30
Fletcher Hotel
Amsterdam 52
Flower Market
27
Friday Next
49
Funny People
58
Gaasper Park
53
Gandhi 14
Gassan Diamonds 28
Gay Tourist Information
Centre 54
George Deli U.S.A. 17
Golden Bend
27
Gollems Proeflokaal 48
Grill Steakhouse Mama
13
Glloglu 16
Haring Naatje
39
Heineken Experience
51
Hermitage Amsterdam
28
Het Schip Museum 49
Hip Wonen
49
Holland Casino
20
Hortus Botanical
Gardens 28
Hostelle 52
Hotel Amstelzicht 11
Hotel Notting Hill
Amsterdam 10
Hotel Roemer
48
Houseboat Museum 25
House of Bols
Cocktail and Genever
Experience 51
IKEA 53
In de Olofspoort
22
In de Wildeman
19
InterContinental
Amstel Amsterdam 10
Jorrit Heinen Delft
Shop 30
Kalvertoren 30
Karos Citytours
27
Kastino Molenwijk 45
Keramiek Atelier
Marjoke de Heer
45
Kerk Zunderdorp 42
Keytours Excursions 24
Landmarkt Amsterdam
45
La Place Amsterdam
Zuidoost 52
La Tertulia
58
La Vie En Rose B&B and
Apartments 11
Librije Zusje
16
Lion of Judah
58
Lloyd Hotel
46
Loetje aan het IJ
41
Ludwig Coffee Bar 47
Madame Tussauds
Amsterdam 24
Magic 58
Manneken Pis
13
Maritime Quarter 43
Marqt 49
Maxime Boutique
Hotel 50
Media Markt
53
Mercure Amsterdam
Airport 34
Metropolitan Deli 13
Mikes Bike Rental Shop
6
Mikes Bike Tours

27
Montmartre 54
Mt. Everest
40
Mulliners Wijnlokaal 23
Museum Geelvinck 25
Museum of Bags and
Purses 25
Nachttheater Sugar
Factory 21
National Maritime
Museum Amsterdam
28
National Monument 27
NDSM-werf 43
New King
12
NH Carlton Amsterdam
10
Noon 58
Old Police Station 42
Onder de Ooievaar 20
Oriental City
12
Oud Holland
13
Pacific Parc
48
Palais de Fromage 53
Paradox 59
Pasta e Basta
14
Pelangi 14
Pietje Frietje
39
Plato 34
Players 23
Pompstation 47
Portuguese Synagogue
29
Prik 55
Proeflokaal de Prael 19
Pure Lust
30
Puspita 39
Quartier Putain
13
Race Planet
Amsterdam 62
Ranara 48
Reality 55
Recycled Rentals
6
Red Light Secrets 24
Rembrandt Park
35
Renaissance
Amsterdam Hotel 10
Resin 59
Restaurant de Smederij
40
Retro In- & Outstyles 49
Rijksmuseum 51
Rinascimento
Delftware 30
Rokerij IV
59
Rooftop Caf
15
Royal Palace
Amsterdam 26
Rusland 59
Saint Morris
15
Satellite Sports Caf 23
Science Center NEMO
29
Sensi Seeds
59
Siberie 59
SkyLounge 21
Skyy Bar
35
Slainte Irish Pub
22
Sloep Delen
6
Sloten Windmill
35
Sloter Park
35
Spang Makandra 50
Starbucks 52
Stayokay Amsterdam
Zeeburg 46
Stedelijk Museum 51
Stork 41
Sweet Dreamz
36
Syriana 35
Taboo 55
TCA Taxi
7
Teasers 23
Teddys Corner
13
Texaco 7
The American Book
Center 30
The Bananen Bar &
Club 18
The Book Exchange 30
The Button
43
The Faralda NDSM
Crane Hotel
Amsterdam 36
The Green Dragon 42
The Hash, Marihuana &
Hemp Museum
26
The Kiss
53
The Old Church
24
The Oyster Club
50
The Pancake Bakery 15
The Parrot: Church of
Sts. Peter and Paul 25
The Pool Hole
19
The Queens Head 55
The Rembrandt House
Museum 29
The Waterhole
22
Tibet Restaurant
16
t Lieverdje
13
t Nieuwe Diep
Distillery 47
Tourist Inn
11
t Pleintje
53
TunFun Speelpark 62
Van der Pekbuurt 42
Van Gogh Museum 51
Van Loon Museum 26
Veronicaschip 40
Vibes 49
Vietnam Restaurant 16
Villa Arena Woonmall
53
Vivelavie 55
VLLA 35
Vyne 23
Wagamama 12
Weber 19
WestCord Fashion
Hotel Amsterdam 34
Westerkerk 25
WesterUnie 49
Whiskycaf L&B
23
Wilhelmina-Dok 40
Winston Kingdom 21
Wooden Houses
42
World of Ajax Tours 53
Yellow Bike
27
Autumn 2014
67

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

The best sights, cafs and

Zandvoort aan Zee

Hollands seaside resort is

A few words from the editor

Arriving & Getting Around

How to get to and from your hotel

Getting to grips with Amsterdam

Canals, cafs & the Plantage

Lakes, parks and modern architecture

Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design

Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhoods

Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek

De Pijp and some of the citys best museums

Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax

Weve put together some city centre sightseeing, eating, shopping

A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam

Where to smoke responsibly

Spas, doctors and other useful information

Amsterdam for kids

Zandvoort aan Zee

Discover Hollands most popular seaside resort

List of small features

Maps & Index

Centrum: old centre map

Sales & Circulation

Just beyond the pretty green

4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

We have come a long way in the 22

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around

IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE

Theres nothing like autumn in Amsterdam

6 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around

Bikes, boats and canals in the Grachtengordel

Navigate a maze of bikes next to Central Station

8 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)

MAIL & PHONES

CITY CENTRE TOUR

CREAM OF THE CROP

U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace

BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS

Explore the city centre on foot or on a bike

Crisp autumn day in Amsterdams Grachtengordel

LA VIE EN ROSE B&B AND APARTMENTS

Hollands legendary fast food vending machines

GRILL STEAKHOUSE MAMA

A meal in Amsterdams Chinatown is an absolute must

Time for breakfast (or an afternoon brunch)

Taste delicious Dutch cheese at the Noordermarkt every Saturday

UITSMIJTER: A CLASSIC DISH

The busy tasting room at Brouwerij t IJ

16 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Amsterdam caf culture is simply fantastic. You can sit in

Youll have to share local cafs with a cat or two

Once again, the following is but a fraction of the nightlife

RED LIGHT STREETS

BLACK TIGER BAR

BILLIARDS & POOL

CAF SLIJTERIJ OOSTERLING

CASINOS & GAMBLING

Amsterdam has scores of historic brown bars