Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Esempi di Valore
3
Direttore
Olimpia Niglio
Kyoto University, Japan
Comitato scientifico
Taisuke Kuroda
Kanto Gakuin University, Yokohama, Japan
Alberto Parducci
Universit degli Studi di Perugia
Enzo Siviero
Universit Iuav di Venezia, Venezia
Alberto Sposito
Universit degli Studi di Palermo
Comitato di redazione
Giuseppe De Giovanni
Universit degli Studi di Palermo
Marzia Marandola
Sapienza Universit di Roma
Alessio Pipinato
Universit degli Studi di Padova
Bruno Pelucca
Universit degli Studi di Firenze
Chiara Visentin
Universit degli Studi di Pisa, Campus Lucca
esempi di architettura
La collana editoriale Esempi di Architettura nasce per divulgare
pubblicazioni scientifiche edite dal mondo universitario e dai centri di ricerca, che focalizzino lattenzione sulla lettura critica dei
progett i. Si vuole cos creare un luogo per un dibattito culturale
su argomenti interdisciplinari con la finalit di approfondire tematiche attinenti a differenti ambiti di studio che vadano dalla
storia, al restauro, alla progettazione architettonica e strutturale,
allanalisi tecnologica, al paesaggio e alla citt.
Le finalit scientifiche e culturali del progetto EDA trovano le ragioni
nel pensiero di Werner Heisenberg Premio Nobel per la Fisica nel 1932.
probabilmente vero, in linea di massima, che nella storia del
pensiero umano gli sviluppi pi fruttuosi si verificano spesso nei
punti dinterferenza tra diverse linee di pensiero. Queste linee
possono avere le loro radici in parti assolutamente diverse della
cultura umana, in diversi tempi ed in ambienti culturali diversi o di
diverse tradizioni religiose; perci, se esse veramente si incontrano,
cio, se vengono a trovarsi in rapporti sufficientemente stretti da
dare origine ad uneffettiva interazione, si pu allora sperare che
possano seguire nuovi ed interessanti sviluppi.
Esempi di Valore
Ogni concetto di valore pone le basi per aprire un dialogo costruttivo e di confronto tra esperienze ed approcci metodologici diversificati in relazione ai principi culturali riguardanti la conservazione del patrimonio e quindi della sua trasmissione come dono per le
generazioni future. Questo enunciato costituisce limpegno scientifico e divulgativo della collana Esempi di Valore. La consapevolezza dei contenuti di questo enunciato consente di analizzare con
maggiore oggettivit le dinamiche che caratterizzano i differenti
approcci teorici e metodologici che si possono riscontrare non solo
tra diverse realt geografiche, ma anche allinterno di uno stesso
Paese tra contesti socio-culturali diversificati. La conoscenza della
diversit diventa quindi la risorsa principale e fondamentale per il
rispetto e la conservazione della stessa diversit.
Mira Budafoki
Rome as we roll it
Copyright MMXIV
ARACNEeditrice S.r.l.
www.aracneeditrice.it
info@aracneeditrice.it
via Raffaele Garofalo, 133/AB
00173 Roma
(06) 93781065
ISBN 9788854872417
I diritti di traduzione, di memorizzazione elettronica,
di riproduzione e di adattamento anche parziale,
con qualsiasi mezzo, sono riservati per tutti i Paesi.
Non sono assolutamente consentite le fotocopie
senza il permesso scritto dellEditore.
I edizione: giugno 2014
This book has many ingredients: all the beauty and inspiration
of the Eternal City, the adventures I could experience,
but above all it contains the spirit of the people
who were my pillars to build my bridge on it.
Special thanks for all the people,
who gave me endless professional,
mental and spiritual support, especially:
Gian Maria Fara (President of Eurispes)
Elena Camilli
my beloved Mom
Anna Kormos
Nra Kbel
Anna Palojtay
Lorenzo Gentile
Valeria Cocco
Marco Galassi
and Adriano dAmici
Contents
Chapter I
Benvenuti a Roma. Benvenuti in a dream
The way from Ciampino
Chapter II
Home where heart is
Monte Mario
Chapter III
Downtown girl style
Centro storico
Chapter IV
Roman edition of the Brave New World
EUR
Chapter V
Behind the scenes
Parioli, Nomentano Italia and San Lorenzo
Chapter VI
The peaceful oasis
Cassia Flaminia
Chapter VII
Islands
Vatican city and its neighborhood, lIsola Tiberina
Rome as we roll it
Chapter VIII
The spirit of old times
Ostiense, Garbatella, Appia Antica
Chapter IX
Visual effects
Parco degli Acquedotti, Cinecitt, S. Elena
Chapter X
Offthepath adventures
Rebibbia, Monte Sacro, Conca dOro
Chapter XI
Breezes of the sea
Lido Centro, Cristoforo Colombo, Ostia Antica
Chapter XII
Arrivederci Roma
The goulash party and the memorable episodes of the
farewell week
Chapter I
Rome as we roll it
and inside her. Measured her pulse, observed her blood, and
so on. After they got the simple conclusion that she cant walk
they started to measure her life. They played a little gambling
on diagnoses of several diseases and several types of diseases.
Lets take a bid for years. Oh god damn it, we lost! Then we
should try . Ohh we lost it again! Well, then this girl was the
one who took the bid: she raised the stakes insolently high. She
learnt the Into the wild wisdom on by her own, translated
to her own language. The only measure which counts is not
necessarily to be strong, but to feel strong. Firstly, the girl
changed the gambling for Supermario watch out, because
now, in Rome it got even cleaner: this game couldnt be a
simple PC game, it can be only Supermario. Until her life
was about gambling, she was surrounded by the echoes of
the sceptics favorite word. This word was impossible. As
she changed the gambling for Supermario, she started not to
give a shit of impossible. She started to wink on them, say
some incantation, and make them all possible. Then she got
obsessed of this game, and she started to search for impossibles
to change them for extra lives of her own Supermario game.
Years have passed and she turned years old, so she got as a
birthday present a flight voucher to anywhere in Europe for
two. She had a friend, who was always an inspiration for her,
and she was also the inspiration of this friend. They affected
each others dreams and goals, as both of them were journalists
and upcoming writers. They were real motivation for each
other.
On a freezing day of January of , this friend came up
with the idea to choose Rome as a destination. The birthday girl
confirmed the choice for some reason. Rome was unknown for
her. A virgin paradise of impossibles. And that was the main
reason. Romes cobble stones waited for her, to enchant her
wheelchair for an Alfa Romeo, for the fanciest one. The roman
trip has become not just land of pseudoimpossible, but the
land of people, who can see in the shape of the perfect and
shiny reality of the saying that impossible is nothing. She felt in
her veins that this is the place where you can live your dreams,
where you can be Supermario, who jumps level by level easily. Here is the place that nobody lies or promises anything
in connection with perfection. But the charm of the carefree
imperfection makes you adore this city. Her friend planted the
flea in her ear about a book. A book about the perfect combination of her four wheels, the possibleimpossibles and Rome.
On that day she carved in stone, Rome is really worth to write
a book by her.
This girl was me, who is still staring at the view from her
Roman room, which has already turned into the calm blackness
of magic, and now Im writing that book. I have everything here,
what a writer needs. Mystic forest, emotions, challenges, hills and
valleys literally and nonliterally, friends with so complex souls,
which suits perfectly for my main characters. No surprise, that my
new, adultfairytale is moving forward, because these great people
make it move. Does make it move? Make it turn to upside down
until I feel dizzy because of happiness. But the way was so long
from that unforgettable first trip to this paused moment as Im
writing these words that I cant attempt to damage the glamour
of this process filtered by time. I want to be intense and fresh,
and on that way the pivotal moments will break out simultaneous
from my memories and in my story. This fact stimulates me to
choose a straighter, more followable, and less long way to my
dreams, directly from the familiar Ciampino airport.
But this way would not have been that graceful and eventful
in the same time, unless Leonardo was waving to us at the
entrance of the airport. As he approached he seemed even
taller, than last time I saw him. He gave us two kisses and a
big hug. I couldnt wish more but have him in our company
on my very first moments of my Roman life, or as he called
this kind of magical period of life: my Roman chapter. These
tiny movements made the empty and dark parking zone more
familiar and homier.
Before we arrived he promised me to rent a car because
of that simple reason to take us to his home and host us for
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
about bella Italia next to good glass of wine on the top of one
of the hills of Buda, he mentioned that Italian piano players
wished him luck several times that way. It was caress to my
heart to hear it again, here in the existing context.
We closed the door behind them. I inhaled deeply the humid, rain perfumed air, and I felt that in this eventually the
moment I arrived in my own life.
Chapter II
Rome as we roll it
ing else but the coupen of the San Pietro, which I mentioned
before.
After the quick inner tour, we made the decision that despite
the exhaustion caused by thrills and toting, well do a nice
outer tour, too. It was early afternoon and there was burning
sunshine, and the lukewarm wind was blowing softly. It caught
as a surprise, because we wouldnt except that hot weather,
even if we should have been convinced in the morning. We
wanted to make a small picnic in the natural reservation in our
neighborhood, so we headed the first and only supermercato
in the area. To tell the truth, the bell did not even hit two
oclock, so it was daring assumption that well find it opened.
We absolutely forgot about the mediterrean lifestyle, as in the
center the siesta time is almost extinct. Ive been cruised in
the city, hitting cafs and trattorias variety of hours of the day,
and Ive never bumped into a closed one at lunchtime. Well,
I had to accept that in the suburbs live the people of reality
and of the everyday life. And an average life here doesnt mean
that it isnt traditional. Moreover, in Italy the more ordinary
you are the more traditional ways you act. So, our first picked
crosshair hasnt welcomed us for the first try, but as its in the
saying: for the good things, you have to suffer at least in
Hungary. But now, as Im wondering about the etymology of
this sentence, Im almost sure that in this country there is no
wisdom in connection with suffering.
Although the shutters were lowered down, there was no
sign, which would have informed us that there is siesta, nor
about what time itll open. So, I spun around my own axis in
the hope that Ill find a victim, who could help us. My glance
was stuck on a heap of men, who were sitting in an outdoor
bar, sipping their umpteen coffee of the day, and discussing the
political actualities, like what happened today with Berlusconi.
This bar was at the left side of the supermarket, so I supposed
that they could be competent in this question, and I was more
or less right. They enlightened us that the siesta time lasts until
around p.m. It meant that we were the owners of infinite
. Monte Mario
Rome as we roll it
. Monte Mario
Rome as we roll it
. Monte Mario
Rome as we roll it
. Monte Mario
Rome as we roll it
was towering to the sky. However, it has turned out soon that
our persistence was pretty useless, because in an unexpected
moment we ran out of the road. We were surrounded by every wild plants of the forest, and we faced a long and narrow
stairway covered by moss and it reached to the top of the hill.
It was partly romantic, partly mystic, and partly horroristic,
but for me mostly disappointing. It meant that without any human being on the horizon, its the stop sign for our expedition.
Anyway, I felt I should keep my head up, because weve been
already on the half way to the highest hill of Rome, which is a
nice achievement.
As an experience complement we took aim at the closest
frutteria to buy some ingredients for our hungarian dinner
to Leon. I waited for Anna outside, and she came back unbelievably flushed because the vender said goodbye with a Ciao
bella! These tiny little scenes of a weekday can pump your
selfconfidence up, so Im not very surprised that people are
wellbalanced in Rome in general. Compliments are so ordinary in the conversations on the street, in the metro elevator,
or in the shops, like we say Thanks or Hi! , or maybe even
more usual. The extraordinary kindness wasnt over, it was
just interrupted by another bus adventure from Via Trionfale
to the Valle Aurelia metro station, which was just from three
stops from our beloved home. Then weve done our daily trip,
or almost daily trip to our favorite supermercato, which was
already mentioned, and which we will probably save in our
prayers, maybe next time on the papal audience. This time the
guy at the vegetable counter was without his boss. Of course,
he took the opportunity, and made a mindful gesture to us, as
he put some fresh, fire red cocktail tomatoes and an orphant
carrot as a gratis in our paper bag next to the already counted
goods. I dont know, which nationality he has, but his oil black
eyes looked from so far and his glance was so mesmerizing.
At home we started to prepare for the cooking. I was insisting to help. I wanted to be Annas assistant chef. I cut the paprika, the apples into microscopicsized pieces, and the sausage
. Monte Mario
for the lecs. Its a traditional Hungarian food, and this was
the first time when we let us to be influenced by our own
cousin. And it could happen, just because Leon wished a Hungarian dish with some cinnamon flavored sweetness. While
Anna cut a dozen of paprika, I cut two. While she was ready
with half kilogram apples, Ive just finished a half apple. My
speed approximated the speed of the snails. But for me it was a
hard job. My arms and my hands are not so strong, or to be honest they are especially weak comparing to the average strength
of others. For me, to lift up a bigger mug is real challenge. So
this little assistance in the cooking was for me a sweaty training,
but I indescribably enjoyed it, because I felt that I really take part
in the process of express our gratefulness to Leonardo for all
that kind initiation, what he made for us in the very first days. Finally, he arrived two hours later, than he promised, but I didnt
mind it at all. Few weeks ago, with my Hungarian attitude I
would really get mad because of this, but in Rome I realized,
as I told before, that the passage of the moments is irrelevant.
What is important thats nothing else but to experience in the
most opened way the moments, which havent passed yet. The
time we spent together was a bit embarrassed, and I really
didnt know the reason of it. Maybe its a real mystery. This
ritual of filling up the kitchen with life to surprise our local
friends with hopefully good dinners has become a nice habit,
which we repeated over and over again with satisfied proud.
The next act was the new edition of the lecs, which was an
improved version, made for Valeria. Save her name, because
her character will be important in the future. For the diversity
on our third cooking show we changed the menu. This one
was dedicated to our flatmate Linda, who celebrated her th
birthday on the th of October. My cutting exercises were
continued with bananas, while Anna was cooking the vanilla
pudding to our magic cake. Maybe Annas Jamie Oliver skills
reached the expert level when she did her home made pizza
for our new and temporary family in the form of the group
of Annas boyfriend Gergo, my friendcollegueinspiration
Rome as we roll it
source Nri, Anna and me. It contained all the heavenly Italian
ingredients, like ruccola, prosciutto, and tomato sauce
But get back to the first dinner with Leo. At the end, he
loved the meal which was mostly Annas excellence. He offered that we can take a walk together nostalgically around the
Colosseo, just for this time without baggages, and more carefree. The other offer was to go to the gay street, which is also
very close to his place, and he has some ridiculous story from
the everydays, because he used to pass that street very often on
the way back home. All in all, I will leave these promises for
the next chapter, which is dedicated to the first municipio of
Rome, also known as Centro Storico.
To be spotlessly honest, this municipio was so seductive
that we couldnt resist, and had some walk there before we
planned originally. These pretours were made mostly under
the gracefully thin Roman moon, which meant that we had to
find a way back home in the darkest night, even if it seemed to
be a bit jolty for the first sight. For the first time we reached
more or less luckily the Battistini with metro around a.m.
This station is the final stop of the line A, which means the
same as in other city: a bit empty, a bit dirty, very silent, and
pretty unknown. It had all the charms and shadows of an ordinary suburb area. Moreover, this fact could be translated like
our current location was our area, Monte Mario, thanks God.
Ive already checked before that from there, we could have
taken a taxi, which would have brought us to our house for
euros. This amount is almost equal with an airport transfer in
Budapest, but in Rome its really nothing comparing to some
been there, done that situation, when we had to pay euros
to the taxi driver to get from one place to another. Allora, as
the Italian would say, it was only my plan B. We had very a few
money, so we knew that its not for spending it without any
reasonable cause. We tried to keep it for the worst case. Anna
was really resolute and she was cruising all the streets in the
near to find a bus station, where we could expect a pyebus.
Despite of a pyebus Anna found a real and existing night bus,
. Monte Mario
Rome as we roll it
Chapter III
This is the area of the city, which has almost all the monuments,
which are painted on the canvas, printed on the postcards and
on the brochures of the travel agencies. All the sweet clich
stuff. We started to explore this part of the Eternal City, where
my entire story started, right after the airport. The train in
the metro line B pulled us insanely in the deep dark tube. A
mechanical sound told the monologue: Prossima fermata
Colosseo. Next stop Colosseo , we escaped here and aimed
for the usual personal lift. We were seeking in the wrong direction and the wrong subject. We were prepared to show our
desperate tourists image in the bottom of the stairway, and
waiting for four muscular gentlemen to lift me up to the top.
As we come back to our senses from our stupidity, we saw a
stairelevator going up next to the wall. We pushed the bottom,
where was signed the weird stick figure with the wheelchair,
what we used to search so desperately if we are lost in the
undergrounds of the metro. A man told us in the crackling microphone: Aspetta tre minuti signorina! It meant we should
wait theoretically three minutes, practically around minutes with the usually chaotic Italian time management. In the
rush of the hurrying citizens and asian tourists I was spanning
up that height with my flashy mechanism.
Upstairs we were browsing our Rome Map&Guide application eagerly to find a seductive place to go in the center after we
will be done with the monumental Colosseo. We decided our
Rome as we roll it
. Centro Storico
does this concept mean for her or him, it will be described like
a friendly outdoor space, which is hugged around by typical
mediterrean houses. Maybe a fountain or the cafs will be
also mentioned. Despite of this definition Piazza Venezia is a
traffic roundabout for megalomaniacs with endless horning
cars. It seemed to be impossible to cross the road for the first
sight. There was a zebra, but no traffic lights. As the challenge
two, this zebra was gently margined by two gigantic berms. It
meant if well go, we cant change our mind, because there is
no last minute way back. This was the unforgettable moment,
when my motto was born: If we die, at least well die in
Italy ... and it was a solace for every futureless event or scene,
which has already come or which is going to come. So, we
took the risk, and it was the best decision, which we could
ever make. Why? Because here, we and the Italian driving style
started to get to know each other. And at the end, I had to
make the consequence that its forbidden to believe in your
eyes, you have to experience it on your own. As my wheels
touched the ground of the empire of the cars and buses, I didnt
felt anymore like an intruder. They were in association with
me, like we would be equals: they bypassed me skillfully, but
the traffic wasnt paralyzed for a single second.
I had an appointment few hours later with the editorinchief
of the most popular newspaper of Rome, called Il Messaggero.
For those empty hours it was perfect to be filled with the jewelries of the Eternal city, which we randomly bumped into on
our way. As we were roaming around the narrow lanes of the
romantic downtown, we reached a square covered everywhere
with cobblestones, and decorated with colorful tents all around.
In the tents old marketwomen offered fresh fruits, vegetables, but sometimes this kind of natural goods unexpectedly
changed for Made in China socks by the immigrant sellers. However, a market at home looks totally different, it really
caught me by my heart. There were rubbish on the ground and
all around, a lot of pigeon destroyed the amazing view. This
chaos was able to create the perfection for me. A chaotic perfec-
Rome as we roll it
tion. The name of this place, where the bonny life was made by
cheerful sounds, laughters, noisy haggling and strong smells, is
Campo de Fiori. As the name of the square has already let on,
the most fantastic side of this hidden space is that part of the fair,
where they sell the flowers. Its like an inboxespacked instant
everlasting spring, with all the fragrances and colours of the
Earth. To tell the truth, we already had the target, where to go
here, because a CouchSurfer friend, who I hosted in Budapest,
updated me that he got a job at my favorite place of Rome. The
name of the restaurant is Virgilio, although the label is hidden
in a tricky way. We had to do a second round of discovering,
because we couldnt find it for the first time. The time, when
we arrived, was characterized with stagnancy. Beti, our strange
waiter friend, who was under a bad wave of depression, enlightened us that one hour before the terrace was full of locals and
tourists. This is a typical hotspot of Rome, where you can find
every kind of people: old, young, ugly, beautiful, Asian, Roman.
Actually, this was the place, which we have seen before in the
summer few months ago, so all what Im writing about now,
wasnt really unknown for us before.
It was deep night and heavy rain. That was the first time we
met Leonardo. Under a gigantic umbrella, like three sardines,
we crawled to one cute corner of the square. In the bottom of
the houses stayed most of the greatest aperitivo bars of the city,
tightly next to each other. Weve chosen the most seductive
one from all of these awesomeness. It was called Primo, maybe
because its the first and only, but the locals obviously know it
better, than me. Comparing the other forms of eat out or go
out, this way saves the contents of your wallet. In the happy
hours, which are usually from or until p.m. You can
make your drunken deal of your life. For euros, youll be
the satisfied owner of a heavenly tasty cocktail and as much
delicious bites of the Italian cuisine as place you have in your
stomach.
But back from the nostalgic past to the willbenostalgic
andstilldreamlike present, this time we didnt hang out in
. Centro Storico
Rome as we roll it
. Centro Storico
Rome as we roll it
the spanish steps, where Ive never been before. The world,
which got opened in that second could be similar to any of
the seven miracles. The stretching view hugged the whole city.
There was like a postcard, where the photographer wanted
to eternize every single detail concentratedly. There were so
much beautiful contradictions that it was hardly acceptable.
Cars down there like the excited ants, the sounds of the restless
city faced to an uncomparable relaxed feeling above the skies, as
we were inhaling the fresh air and watching the artistic games
of the colours at the horizon. The clouds were colored to deep
purple by the coming night, but the sun was still fighting with
them like an angry red ball. At the end the sun hided away
behind the towers of Mussolini at Piazza Venezia. As we woke
up from that amazed statement, we realized that we are so
close from another big favorite hill of us. This is the Pincio. Ive
been there before several times, and every time, when I had
the chance to visit it, its nostalgic and it gives a new feeling
parallel. If a place has this kind of atmosphere, then its useful
to notice it. Pincio is from one hand the part of the extending
park of Rome, the Villa Borghese. In the other hand it owns
the most stunning view to the Piazza del Popolo. I did a bit of
rallycross in the grained gravels, and we headed right to the
Via del Macelli, where our theater waited for us proudly.
On the halfway, where I was doing a drag racing down
from the slope and we were humming the song Whats up,
which was played by a street musician, we realized that we
still need to do a tour to a toilette. The pee alarm sign was
flashing more desperately above Annas head, so she really did
her best to come across a public lavatory in the park. Although
we found many options on the map of the Villa Borghese, but
in the reality they have simply disappeared, like the camphor.
On the way up to the hill we were joking about that fancy
hotel, which we passed. We played with the idea of sneak into
the five star paradise, absolutely pointlessly and arbitrarily. Of
course, we havent got the bravery to do it, but on the way back
we were already the happy owner of some serious reason. The
. Centro Storico
reason was the pee issue. We gyrated into the Hotel Intercontinental Villa Medici, right to the red carpeted luxury hall. The
receptionist addressed to us his wellpracticed and extraordinary polite question: How could I help you, Maam? with
a perfectly sounding british accent. That was the ceremonial
moment, when we did our twosome performance. We created a fake theater before the real one. I put on my lost face
and turned on the puppy eyesmode, begging for a toilette because of emergency. Our show was more than successful. We
originally faced four steps to the elevator, but the porter took
outside from the stock room a mobile ramp. This ramp was
also covered with red velvet. I felt myself like the nonexisting
Hungarian princess. The porter informed us that disabled toilette is on the second floor. Actually if I have the chance to
choose I used to choose the normal lavatory, because sometimes the special one has more obstacles, than the normal one.
In Hungary, for example I often meet with some very abstract
toilet bowl with a huge gaping hole in the middle. However, I
tried so hard to solve the mystery who and why planned them
that way, but I couldnt figure it out. In Rome, fortunately this
type of the pee horror avoided us, so at least I didnt have to
sink in the bowl that way. But as always here I could also find
a way for a nasty dip in the loo. For some unknown reason
the disabled toilets in Rome doesnt have a board on the bowl.
I really dont have any idea why it is a help for people, who
mostly got so brilliant balance like a drunken bird. In this case it
would be really rude to sort the options, so I followed another
porter guy right to the elevator. He also spoke flawless English.
We told him that were here for half year, and we have nothing
else to do just to explore all the beauties. It sounded loose, posh
and chic, like two very rich girls would have said. This scene
suited to the glamorous ambience. The wall, the ceiling and
the floor was covered with salmoncolored marble, but in the
biggest luxury they still couldnt afford a board for the bowl. Inspite the complicating factors, we hurried as much as we could,
because the porter guarded us or guarded the fancy toilet
Rome as we roll it
. Centro Storico
Rome as we roll it
the fake fancy touristic restaurants. Everything was pretty ordinary, simple, and local here. At the cash register an older lady
stayed, who spoke only Italian, and this situation gave us no
chance to get lazy. We had to try to perform our huge language
knowledge again. We havent planned to end up there, so we
chose the cheapest, but one of the most delicious classic pizza,
Margherita. We eyed a bit with the shy, but pretty overwhelming waiter guy here I have to mention something important
about the general flirting situation in Italy, There are a lot of
stereotype about this: if you want love, youll come here, because youll get it. The first biggest one, but its partly true and
partly a lie. What youll get here a basic sensitive attitude and
attention, and respect. In countries like Hungary, you can get
the vibrations of these feelings, if you know someone really
well and if your relationship turned absolutely serious, even
in friendships, not just between the members of couples. In
Rome, you have to watch out, because youll get it willynilly,
everywhere. Ive noticed that the people humming cheerfully
and smiling on you on the street, without any intention. They
say ciao to you in the biggest rush as you cross the road.
Dads with their babies will talk to you and introduce you their
little proudness, their bimbo / bimba (which means baby in
Italian). People will say to you hundreds of compliments per
day, even if you feel yourself like a piece of shit. Why? Because
they are paying attention for the small details, they recognize
the beauty and they enjoy it, and they express it. After you will
be surrounded with these positive energies of the feedbacks,
you cant stop smiling on the street, in the bar. You cant stop
stare into the deep brown eyes, and youll feel this is right, and
there is nothing to feel ashamed. Youll understand the interaction. So, if we are eyeing with the waiter guy in a bit messy
snack bar, it doesnt mean that we want something from him.
It meant that during our stay here, he was a great company, he
made us feel good, while we had our lunch, and we werent
shy to express it to him. Our happiness just increased as the
sun found a way for break through the stubborn sinister grey
. Centro Storico
Rome as we roll it
. Centro Storico
no doubt for me that he will solve it, but I was also sure that
it will be adventurous. We discussed that my extremely heavy
electric wheelchair would be too big challenge, so we agreed
that we will leave it in the aisle, and try to trust the neighbors.
He lifted me up, and I felt like I would breathe in the mountain
air, because he is so tall. He did the same way alone, what they
have already fought down with Anna. I felt that its more and
more difficult to hold me, step by step. I tried to encourage
him, count back the seconds until he has to hold on, however
maybe it has just made the situation worse, but at the end we
fell in his bed successfully. He played me on his saxophone, and
the time switched again in the flying away mode, as I already
experienced with Lorenzo. Anna rang soon.
As it was Friday, we wanted to crown it: it wasnt an option
to stay at home, so we decided to involve one hundred percent
in the Roman nightlife. Consequently, thats how we ended up
in a cute restaurant, called by Leo Antiluzzi, as a nickname. This
little heaven of the Italian foods was located also in the area
of Colosseo. Like it would have been determined in the fate
that we have to breathe the air in here by night, too. However,
this restaurant was just the counterpole of the original plan.
On the other side of the street, we could find Luzzi, the big
sister of our choice, which is a bit friendlier and cheaper at the
same time. Maybe this was the reasonable cause that it was
full of guests, in spite the other one. This news didnt really
matter, because we got the information from our superinsider
companion that the owner is the same and its not impossible
to convince him to serve the menu of Luzzi, to the table of
Antiluzzi. We tasted each others dish, because it didnt seem
to be possible to order only kind from the endless perfections.
All together we had amazing pizza con prosciutto, beef steak,
suppl and tiramisu. I hope it wasnt the last time to experience
this kind of flavourbomb.
After a waking coffee we headed to our next stop with satisfied bellies. Just in general, we couldnt choose the easiest
way to get to Angelo Mai, which is a local hotspot of the area.
Rome as we roll it
The Plan A was to get there by metro, because for the appropriate stop, Circo Massimo, we should have travelled only two
minutes from there. The only problem was that we met before
the pseudo elevator issue at that station. What does it mean?
There is also a brand new, shiny tool, which could take me
up to the top, but there is no answer from the speakers, nor
competent employee of the ATAC around, so its pretty useless.
The second option was to go by foot, wheels everybody by
he or she has. However, we faced the fact that in Rome the
pavements disappear sometimes very randomly, we managed
to get to the concert. We joined for the fight of the cars of a
parking area and I was fished down from some giant berm to
get closer to our destination. We even crossed a sixlane road,
partly without the guarding traffic lights. When we arrived, I
felt that I reaped all the credit of our adventurous way, because
I got a ticket for free (my prayers go to the Hungarian bars and
clubs that they should learn from their Roman friends). Moreover, we got to know some fantastic people besides the magic
trio of us. For me, if there is an opportunity to spend valuable
time with locals, is the best prize, I can ever win. In this case
difficulties have no chance to be noticed, because thesell seem
to be nothing, if these kinds of impulses are around them.
As the original plan, which was the mobile repairing by our
IT guru friend, wasnt made come true for the first time, we
had to manage a second try. On that night we left Annas phone
at Leonardos place, and we got it back few days later, when delicious fragrances were all around from the kitchens, as it was
lunch time. We agreed an appointment at the Trastevere train
station. Theoretically it would have to be perfect for us, because
it was on our line, and our train is wheelchair accessible. Due
to the fact that we never had to get off here before, weve never
paid attention on the platforms. There was a huge difference
in level between the train and the platform, so we needed few
strong amici. To tell the truth, we havent got the opportunity
to ask for help, because some random guys appeared from
the nowhere, and ran to help us eagerly, without any asking. I
. Centro Storico
Rome as we roll it
ample for this, when our little Hungarian team was gathering
at the middle of the square. We warmedup for the cultural
shock with a cute bunch of primary school girls. They played
on their guitars. Nri tried to encourage them not to be that
shy and sing louder, because the other street musician guy at
another corner was more dominant, so he got all the money.
The girls answered with flawless English, which surprised us
regarding we knew they were Romans. They convinced us
with their opened interest and their childlike smiles to join
them and be louder together. We had some difficulties with
our common setlist, because they know more Miley Cyrus
songs, than s rocknroll, which we wanted to rock with, but
finally we agreed in few Beatles hits. I think these moments
were really catchy and inward, not just for us, but for all the
people who spent their cheerful times under the night lights of
the breathtaking Santa Maria in Trastevere church. The Libyan
group right next to us felt this for sure, because they stared us
and our whole production with starry eyes. They joined our
random union, too, however the little girls had to leave soon as
they parents were worrying and called them back home. The
Libyan guys slid closer, and invited us to share their pumpkin
seeds and hashish. I wasnt shy to take from both of them. It
felt like wed be on a soccer match with the smell of a typical
train station of Rome. Hashish and weeds scent is all around
here day and night, its not a big deal here, and as far as I see
now, its not strictly punished, because everybody smokes. My
explanation for this phenomenon is nothing else but the fact
that here the temperance is the part of the collective knowledge. We can breathe this knowledge in with the fresh air. As
long as we can handle these joys with temperance nothing bad
or unhealthy can happen with us, but we can enjoy the benefits
of it. Its not a shame, but a great thing. I think its important to
declare for all those people who would whine and get shocked
that it is something, what I should really deny in my situation.
To dive in the atmosphere of this city, its useful to live every
moment as it requires, and those silly reasons like caution is
. Centro Storico
Rome as we roll it
that the cars couldnt see us. Luckily, one of the drivers jumped
out from his cozy seat and helped to manage the action. At the
end we were still alive.
Castel SantAngelo appeared next to the river bank, so we
aimed for it. Outside of the castle there were many street performer and artists. Two very hippie guys drummed on totally
random objects, like old and used luggages, garbages, boxes
and chairs. Their performance was really catchy. Anna is still
mentioning them day by day. The sun was shining like it would
be summer. I wore a light dress and I still felt very hot, but
I think this is one of the most enjoyable feelings if its in the
end of October. Like a routine round we skipped the worming
queue in front of the building, and we went to the receptionist.
He sent us to the cash register, where we got our absolutely
useless tickets, which cost zero EUR. An old lady accompanied
us to a private elevator. She turned it on with a key, and the
elevator lifted up the VIP guests, a.k.a. us. We run few circles
up in the heights, to take a picture about the St. Peters Basilica
from every point of view. We passed by a cute bar upstairs,
which was run by purple arbor. It really felt like the middle of
the spring, there was soft wind and it was impossible not to be
enchanted by the strong scent of the flowers.
After the cultural charging, we decided that deserves some
more dirt of this area. We knew it that in Rome, there is always
the charm with two faces. We wanted to get to know the vibes
in the dark, and not just at the neighborhood of Colosseo. Especially, because this district still fondled one more hotspot of
the great Roman nights in the lap, which we havent known yet.
This part was discovered by a newold trio of Nri, Lorenzo
and me in November. Our destination is called Monti. The expression echoed in my head familiar, because Beti has already
invited us to party there, but that attempt has failed for some
reason. In this case we couldnt resist to Lorenzos invitation
and the seductive description of the band, which was set in the
agenda of the place, where we went. The rain made me blind
for the small details, but in spite of that I realized that this area
. Centro Storico
Rome as we roll it
Chapter IV
Rome as we roll it
sights, and she came across some interesting stuff from there.
After this second impact we decided to conquer the unknown
shelters of this huge neighborhood.
We chose from the calendar a day with the same style as that
they had, when the idea to go there was born. I felt burning sunshine on my skin. It gave the sign that its time to wear the posh
wayfarer sunglasses. Later it turned out that not just the blinding light is the reason to look really fabulous and glamorous
for this tour. We made our daily routine journey with the train
to Ostiense, where we changed to metro B to the direction of
Laurentina. On this line the metro trains are older, dirtier, muggier, and stinkier than on the parfumeairconditioned a line,
but at least all the stops barrier free. Theoretically. Mustknow
about Italy that the system is never working flawlessly, but its
always moving. The situation is not the same with the elevators (because sometimes at some station they havent moved
at all), but perfectly the same final solution. And for me, its
not difficult to confess that this is the main point. To present
the social structure, we tried out that kind of mechanism as
we attempted to be lifted up to the exit by proper machines
at our destination, which was EUR Palasport according to the
original plan. The calling button of the brand new elevator was
flashing scary red. In the similar cases we used to seek first for
some handsome ATAC controller, who could help us. Spontaneously and already almost instantly we hit the box office, but
it was closed and empty. The whole station was so extinct like
the tolling deepness, despite of that it wasnt Sunday. Namely,
in the capital city of Italy, the Sundays seem like at the countryside, in villages or small towns everywhere else in Europe.
People respect them. Sundays are for being with our families
and inhale some fresh air out of the noisy downtown. After
we skeptically checked our calendar, we said a simple Boh.
which is the short and seedy summary of I have no idea or
in a bit more vulgar way Hell knows. Due to the fact that
we were out of masculine help, we left the stage, and passed
away with the next train to the closest optional stop. Luckily, its
. EUR
name still contented the small and needed EUR word, it was
called EUR Magliana. We arrived there with great hopes, but
superfluously, because we faced the same old picture. On the
little button red letters told us Fuori Servizio, also known as
Out of Service. Maybe it was infectious. However, it seemed
that we left home our luck and our plans seemed to be also
kind of futureless, but we didnt give up. Everything can characterize us, but not the attitude, which contains the shadows
of giving up. We needed only few minutes and we already got
the rethought version of the EUR mission. We took the metro
until the final destination. There we changed the direction, and
we made the round back to Rebibbia / Conca DOro, and we
started to test the elevator at the opposite side, on the new
platform of life, at the bright side just to be as metaphorical
as its needed from a writer. We were ready to an endless action, although finally it was quicker, than we expected. At our
originally planned stop hasnt got elevator, but proudly owned
a spacious exit without any stairs, so we caught the opportunity and escaped there from the tube. W bumped into a shiny,
brand new outdoor place, full of refined gentlemen, with high
fashion ties and perfectly ironed shirts and suits. They were all
spending their chilling lunch time released by the work and
family responsibilities. I couldnt define it appropriately, but I
felt the plastic in the air, like the oxygen would have been also
artificial.
Ive felt this several times before, and I have a kind of
soulallergic or mentally allergic reaction to these scenes. I
felt them in my workplace, when I wasted my time at the
computer of an international company day by day, doing without any extreme any useful action. I felt this sometimes on
fake friends gathering at my dads place. It looked pretty
familiar for me. And I couldnt see any chance to identify
myself with this era. Except the people, or it would be rather
better to say, the citizens of this business area, for the first
time we could seek for some soul charging sights. We headed
the huge artificial lake, which we read about before. It was
Rome as we roll it
. EUR
Anna was pretty prepared for this trip, so she gave the idea
to conquer first the Basilica of Saint Peter and Paul. Regarding
the fact that we got kind of exhausted because of all the metro
elevator troubles, we wanted to chill and fill ourselves up with
the treating sunshine. In the spirit of Hair we let the sunshine in
for half an hour, and after that we followed the blindingly white
dome of the basilica of the XX. century. We sneaked through
huge Hammers with shaded windows. I missed the retro Fiat
cinquecento feeling, but I broke the way with persistence. Soon
we faced hundreds of steps, which directed to the towering
house of God. In the hope that from the heights we will see a
friendlier view of the EUR existence, we struggled ourselves
up to the top step by step. Fortunately these ones werent
so tall than the average Roman berms, which have already
trained Anna pretty well. On the half way of our stair climbing
project, we noticed that there is a detour, which is maybe a bit
longer, but more straightforward. This choice suited to the area
regarding that everything was cheekily direct, like if someone
d una pizza in faccia! This is the expression in Italian for a
nice slap in the face. The surroundings of the basilica can be
characterized with one simple word: megalomaniac. We were
guarded by scary giant empty spaces. Mistakes were hidden
with the brightness of the fake whiteness. We crossed the
road with the welllearnt alertness, which is a skill you have
to use on the general Roman streets. Its the combination of
being quick, react always for the impulsions, cooperate, but
go for it. For the first time it might look chaotic, but it works
powered by soul. Like everything in this city, except this weird
world, which makes me love even more with increased passion
everything else, which is connected to the ancient Rome, with
all its beloved grime. We made a tour around the monument,
looking for an opened gate, but as our heart wasnt really
opened to let in this atmosphere, this atmosphere also didnt
want to let us in.
Besides all my critics I have to mention that a random surprise for fun moments couldnt be missed, wherever we were.
Rome as we roll it
. EUR
Rome as we roll it
. EUR
The day after our visit in the black and white paradise, we
pointed out the jewel of this chapter. It was the biggest papal
basilica of the magic four, the one which is out of the ancient
borders of the city, and also out of that stranger plastic land.
We took the metro B at our change station, which is Ostiense /
Piramide, although we could take the RomaLido train, too,
which would offer a more beautiful view. The common sense
whispered that we should choose the quicker way, which was
the underground. It was only two stops, and we reached the
appropriate station. It felt like a thunder from the clean sky.
But anyway, it was freshening. We arrived to the ground floor
with the peeflavored elevator. We walked five minutes and
the basilica shined on us with all of its beauty. It was even more
gorgeous, than the St.Peters Basilica, or the other stunning one
at the San Giovanni. In the stomach of the whale I lost Anna
because of the fact that I was stunk into my thoughts, which
were inspired by all the arts I saw there. As far as I departed for
my Annasearchingadventure, I tested pretty trustworthy the
accessibility of the basilica on my own. The ramps were not to
steep and drove me to every corner of the church, even to the
breathtaking cloister, surrounded by four perfectly geometrically placed palms. I found the beautiful frontage in the garden,
which I stared with the honest enthusiasm of a child, instead
of seeking Anna, however finally and luckily she has appeared
very soon.
Chapter V
If you want to find an area in this city, which reaches out for
all your senses, choose the second Municipio of Rome. If
you want for all your hidden shelter of your soul and mind
to be heated, just trust me, and choose heights of the Villa
Borghese, the dirty stories of Villa Ada, the passionate sounds
of the drums at the main square of San Lorenzo, or the enchanting gurgle of the old wise fountain at Piazza Mincio. My lines
might sound like a catchy advertisement or the welllearnt
and repeated quotes of Trainspotting and in my brain the
soundtrack with Born Slippy is echoing , but they are all,
simply and purely true. I remember the words of Nri who
is my human motivation, mirror, and representative feedback
when she declared to me her summary about Paris. Shame
on me, but I can only steal it and project it to my Rome. People
are saying this place is full of clichs, and its not an urban
legend, because it is. As Ive already mentioned before the case
of the inthebrainscratched picture of the Colosseo. We all
have to accept it, but there is a way, which makes you able to experience it like a real joy: if you keep your eyes wide open, you
will see, how these sweet clichs are coming to life, and starting
to billow. As a consequence of this billowing you will be overwhelmed by their power in the matter of glancing. Conclusion
is nothing else just the fact that its forbidden to be coward, you
will have to dare to follow the heroes and superstars of the past
and present, there is no chance to underestimate yourself. You
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
truth sometimes the smells of it, when we took the bus from
our temporary home at Tiburtina to the center. As I checked
our destination on the map, all the surrounding streets were
familiar. We had to get up on this stunning Friday morning
very early. As far as we are living here this was the first time
when we had to turn on the light to do the robot mode of the
morning routine. The voice of the alarm reminded me a more
regulated life, and it made feel appreciate the level of freedom,
which Im living here day by day.
On the train to Ostiense we met a Hungarian emigrant, it
was a dual feeling for me. Firstly, it felt good to talk to someone in Hungarian in the most unexpected moment. Maybe
this heart warming is even stronger, if somebody is all alone
as a stranger, but its not my case, because I have here Anna.
After this, I just realized that even this lovely episode couldnt
be efficient to make a bit of homesick in my soul. I think it
means that the Italian atmosphere truly enchanted me. From
the node of the metros and trains, we aimed the Conca dOro
direction, and got off at Policlinico station. I felt indescribable
desire to relive the same sance here, what Ive already done
in January with Nri, but I had to control myself, focus our
certain plans, and leave it for the future. My previous observations promised me that La Sapienza should be from this stop
absolutely inside the horizon. I was wrong, because I ignored
that its a huge building complex, more over we can found
some smaller building and wings in the neighborhood. As it
was early morning, the people were a bit slowed down and
sluggish, when it came to help us. Despite of this after two
short conversations included some chaotic mixes of sinistra,
destra, e dritto we figured out that few blocks away well find
our destination. It was a pretty ugly post socialist building, grey,
tall and bleak. Now I felt lucky that my university is so reputable
and spacious, even if our nation was more influenced by the
soviet taste destruction. Ive seen endless colorful confettis on
the ground, which planted in my head the misgiving that the
party is over . Actually we had a nice chance for it, because
Rome as we roll it
this land the family means everything. Its the base of all the
comparison, its the field, where the people feel the spotless
confidence. Family is something, which is written on your forehead, and you undertake it with a proud as hell attitude. On
this dewy Friday morning I found myself with a magic blow
in the middle of miracles circle. Valeria declared some words
with lead weights, like she is a writer or Daddy, Id like to
introduce you a very talented journalist of Il Messaggero, isnt
it awesome? I wasnt prepared for that kind of compliments,
especially because in some cloudier moments I still cant believe that my gift or my persistence is on an equal level with
the favor that I can collect the little leafs of inspiration from
Rome. Her acknowledgement kicked out my shyness to the
peripheries. I tried to memorize all the classic Italian names,
how the superfriendly family members and friends were called,
but now I can remember just some of them. The person, who
I can call just Mr.in in the absence of the name opened a nice
bottle of champaign on the top of stairs of the building. He was
two in one, because he presented himself in a form of a friend,
and in a form of the photographer of the event. The head of
the family, the alfa and the omega, of course, in the traditional
way, who was the father poured un po to everybody. This
scene shows a perfect sociological summary about the nation:
they deny any greed if its time for any culinary joy. Greed
can only win place if its about soccer or some kind of strike,
as far as I can know what is what now. Under the auspices
of sobriety and modesty we found our plastic glasses quarter
filled. As we looked at the bottom of the glass very soon, we
got a second round. In delirious exhilaration we joined for the
shooting of everlasting family pictures. We took part in the
greatest moment, when a machine is able to pry open the time
on shiny papers or on digital screens, and save the pulse of the
youth veins. We posed on the picture when everybody was
altogether in the last row on our side with Valerias smiling
friend, who was the only friend on the big day except for us.
After that we became the cheerful attendants of a picture with
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
filled with jam and cocoa. From the right side of the square
which was our side a guy played on his electric guitar
and with only one amplifier some of our favorite songs, like
Wish You Were Here by Pink Floyd. This tunes stretched the
memories of this evening a bit deeper, than it would have been
stretched without them. On the other side a street performer
danced some Michael Jackson choreography for his classic
beats. Dalma and Anna rode the lions and they took extremely
funny pictures about each other, while I enjoyed my wine at
the bottom. The other important corner of Piazza del Popolo
is Canova Caf, where we sat down for inspiration with Nri
and Lorenzo due to the fact that there was the haunt of Mrai
Sndor, who is a wonderful Hungarian writer, and he left his
home, just like me, but the reasons were pretty different. I
dont want to involve anybody to a literature history course,
so I just advice to google it, because the story is worth. We
had a nice chat with a cup of espresso, which was also worth,
exactly euros, so next time we will choose a local caf for
inspiration. Although we were having shower of glory because
we conquered our favorite top of Rome, where we can see even
Piazza del Popolo, we could even picture that culturally filled
up feeling what we should have expected from the following
days.
To the Parioli area we took the tram from Ostiense. For
the first sight, it seems to be very simple, but it wasnt. The
difficult version of getting there was actually more difficult
because of one single safety island, which originally was made
to make it easier to get on the tram, but for sure, not for me.
The height of the berm was almost the same as the difference
in level between the train and the platform at Trastevere station.
Moreover, it was put to the edge of busy bend without a traffic
light, so we really had to catch the right second. Sometimes
Im in a Jim Morrison mood, in female edition, which means
that I feel Im the lizard queen, I can do anything , and in
that cases I just enjoy the danger, and I love the way as I can
get over it easily, and then find myself as a winner of that task.
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
for me again, I still saved it in my mind along with the cute and
really entertaining episode from the surrounding hills of Villa
Ada. There was an empty and lonely Smart on the road. Unexpectedly four youngsters and a slapstick and sweetly behemoth
dog appeared, ran towards the mini car like they would have
been chased by someone or something super frightening. They
crammed themselves into the extremely tiny space inside the
car. Maybe they used the same liquid magic trick, I used to do
as a routine exercise. Actually this performance made my day,
we couldnt stop laughing for a while, until the fully packed car
hasnt left the horizon.
We found yellow signs on the road, which showed the
needed space for the bus, which theoretically stops there. We
have waited for it half an hour, which I thought, in the capital
city, in the daytime, is more than enough. Later I had to accept
that in Rome there are some nonsense, which you have to
accept regarding the public transport, even in more crowded
and more popular areas. We checked the timetable. As we were
reading that we noticed that not just the regularity but the arrival of the last buses was also absurd. Officially it used to come
at p.m. Fortunately, the direction of the bus wasnt suitable for
us, so walked forward in the hope that we will find the other
part of the park, or at least the way back home, because at that
time we were in the middle of nowhere. As we followed the
road we realized that we were just getting further and further
from the strong green patch. We got tired, so we made up our
mind: one day we have to gain up Romes biggest park from
somewhere else to find that lake, for example, but for now we
should teletransport to the society, like the real AntiAlexander
Supertramps. We spotted a familiar pharmacy, which we have
already passed before. We followed that road in the hope that it
will lead us to the right direction.
We were true, moreover we found a bus, which could take
us right to the Termini. This solution seemed quite comfortable, so it cheered us up. Another lovely surprise was the moment, when I noticed that I cut more dash than in general .The
reason was the flashing and sirening bus, which was basically
a good sign. It meant that the electrically powered ramp was
finally working. The middle door was sticking out its tongue
and I rolled up on it happily. The bus reached a stop, called Piazza Ungheria. Yes, it is named like my country and it made me
feel like a proud Hungarian, far in Italy. The bus turned to the
line of the tram, which we already have known. From Piazza
Ungheria it took less than minutes to get to Buenos Aires,
where we started our fairytale day. This recognition planted a
new and strange feeling in my heart. We all in this world are so
close to each other like these two stops: just minutes by bus.
People can feel so easily close to others from my point of view.
Its a bit philosophical, but I felt there, so I dont feel ashamed
to put down in words here in the middle of the introduction of
Parioli.
Everybody is searching for the meaning of life, and everybody found different solutions, which could change day by
day, month by month, year by year, as quickly as the persons
soul is changing. For now, in my interpretation the meaning
of life is the people around. People around me, regardless that
its Budapest or Rome. For me, career is not that important,
money is just a tool to keep ourselves alive, to have the chance
to get in touch and keep in touch with people. All my friends
are very sociable, but they all are starving for different components of the human soul. Now, Im just bringing two very
intense and constantly presented way of thinking about the
peoples relationships with each other. Im starting now with
Nris uptake. She believes in the meeting, or in the get in
touch part. She always wants to know more and more life
stories, more and more philosophies, moreover not just more
but newer. This is her petrol, her energy. Its a system, which
is moving and transforming in every single second. For Anna
people means the confidence and roots. So, people with capital
letters in her life are her family, her boyfriend and some very
close friends. Its something steady, permanent and demarcated.
Im somewhere in the middle. My pasta is kneaded from the
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
What could we do then? The garden was still open for the
curious visitors. There was an opened window at the right side
of the gate, where sweet noises of musical instruments were
filtering out. It was an elementary music school. Suddenly I felt
that it would be nice if I could express myself playing music.
We entered to the outdoor territory of MACRO. There were
loitering art university students. They dressed like hipsters
in a bit a more individual way. In the garden you can find a
long stretching edifice, which reminded me to a stable. Around
the edifice there were stakes and between the stakes flimsy
ropes were pried open. The art students were zigzagging all
the way with papers in their hands. Actually as I could decode
every piece of paper was a piece of contemporary art created
by them. They hung the paintings to the ropes with clothes
pegs. It was so cute like a kindergarten sance. In the middle
of the garden a bamboo installation towered. It was almost as
monumental as a skyscraper, because I couldnt see the top of
it. In the opening hours its possible to climb to the top, but
of course not for me. However, its pretty obvious, because it
would be difficult to imagine that they could build an elevator
into a more than meters high dickey bamboo tower. Soon
we got an explanation for the huge amount of the students.
Another wing of the complex is owned by Roma Tre University.
There we found a canteen and some lecture halls, too. The first
part of the MACRO conquer was labelled by the atmosphere.
We couldnt stay as long as they would have opened their
doors, because Nri was landed before and we had to go to
pick her up at Valle Aurelia. Only one day later I could return
with my freshly arrived companion, with Signorina Entusiasta,
officially called Nra Kbel. We were already wellinformed,
so we gave that next try after p.m. and it meant that we could
manage a successful perforation. The exhibition was overly
modern for me. I confess that most of the time I cant identify
myself with the contemporary art. Its simply too pessimistic
and too creepy for me. Nri watched from sunbed a short
movie about the transformation of the water. We watched
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the biggest paradox of this lost case. At the end of our bus
journey Nri stuck her enthusiasm to the girl and she won
back her cheerful Italian face and the spontaneity, which comes
together with this, of course.
As we approached the fire, we heard the sound of the drums
louder and louder. I think it is my favorite instrument. We discussed it with Anna before that drums really make move inside
very primeval emotions. In the streets drummers appear and
bring some rhythm in your day, and its kind of awakening of
the instincts, in a good way. She accompanied us right to Piazza
dellImmacolata and in the very last moments we changed our
contacts. From that time weve just called her Lady Pepperoni,
because for the first time Nri misunderstood her surname,
which sounded pretty similar to Pepperoni. It has become a
nice inside joke between us later. An episode like this after
more than one month in Rome has become simply natural,
although I couldnt imagine the same in a sober state of mind
at home, in Budapest. People can be so closed in their own
worlds few hundred kilometers away from here.
Nri rolled her cigarettes in the warm lights of the square
as we were waiting for Leonardo. We have chased each other
for minutes which felt endlessly long. I hoped that he will recognize me, because I can tell surely that I am very conspicuous
even in the craziest crowd. Despite of this hope I was the one,
who spotted his super tall silhouette, while we were hanging
on our phone, trying to clarify our coordinates. We perched a
bit at the square, while Nri was smoking. After I felt Giulia
is literally lost in the city, I was convinced that Leonardo is
also very lost, just in the forest of thoughts and teasing doubts.
Somehow we started to talk about working at international
companies, as both of us had some previous and / or present
experience about it, except for our freshly landed Signorina
Entusiasta. In Hungary if somebody works for this kind of
companies a secure status will automatically come together
with the position in every field. People from this era are appreciated professionally and socially, too. If you work for the
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Nri just had her usual form. She shot her love bombs to
everyone, who seemed to be interesting in the bar and around
the bar, when she took a short smoking break. She aimed
two guys, who stayed next to her on the sidewalk. From now
the one of them will be called thestarryeyed guy, and well,
the other is the one, whom name was forgotten. It turned
out in a glance that they are studying linguistics, what a surprise. Theyve started to change their opinions about how our
mother tongue determines us culturally and psychologically,
meanwhile me and Leo have been swapping our drinks because
of our neverending curiosity. Soon we joint the philosophical
circle outside in the cold of the night. It was the solemn moment, when we realized that this place is filled with a bunch of
friends, and everybody knew the owner pretty well. Only we
were the black sheeps, but it just made me more excited about
the place. It meant that its a kind of shelter, where we were
accepted and it made me feel proud. The starry eyed guy told
us that theyre coming here for chatting and for a nice aperitivo
every Wednesday. There are many ways to keep in touch, but
in this romantic capital the way of contacting is always very
romantic, too. Ive already got telephone number on a postit
note. Such a previous centurys solution, but still has the charm,
what I will never forget. Nri organized an appointment with
these guys with a technic, which is the crown of the spontaneity, which really suits her. They agreed that next week on this
day, at this place. These are the moments, when the freedom
catches you and blows you a way for a passing by second.
Due to the sad reality that our watches showed midnight,
we had to go home like in the Cinderella. In this case we were
afraid that our night bus will become a snail after a.m. and we
still had to find it. I was so drunk that it was also challenging
to go straight, which meant that it was an impossible mission
to follow the instructions of a map for me. Leonardo left us
half an hour before we decided to aim the home sweet home,
too. I automatically called him to give me some information
how we could get to Termini, if we are so buzzed, and I ex-
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attitude. I couldnt accept that I will never do the same mechanisms like the people around me, so its pointless to pretend
the opposite. I have chosen mostly not to drink, because then I
could avoid that anybody of the bunch of people and doesnt
know me so well start to feel sorry for me. That is something
what I truly hate, because it destroys the greatest and most
motivating illusion of my life, which is: I can do anything,
what anyone else can do... or even more The further developed omnipotent Jim Morrison motto. My parents grew me
up like this: do you want to go to the fun park? Okay, lets
go! Do you want to play tag or hideandseek with the others?
Lets do it! But they have never told me the way how to do it.
They let my creativity work. Maybe I can say thanks for this,
because it can be the reason that I could become a writer. It
was totally unconscious for me in my childhood and even in
my adolescent years that I need to find new and different ways
to do this kind of stuff. Until I havent started to write this book,
which is inevitably analyzing my life without any lies, I havent
accepted that my further developed Jim Morrison motto just
partly true. I cant do everything, especially not some stuff what
the others can do, but yes, I can do more, because I can do
things differently. In Rome I have to meet this fact day by day,
as Im writing my lines and as Im living my life, but I dont
mind.
After a small inner facing in my soul I drive myself back
to the Roman adventure, which directed me from the plastic
glasses to a nice introspective philosophizing again. We took
our white wine to the wellknown Piazza dellImmacolata.
This time we missed the drummers, but they were guys
around, who were shouting and singing, and we can see fireworks, too, so the atmosphere was still catchy. We didnt have
to feel disappointed. Three of us found the harmony again,
which was just few times interrupted by the emigrant hawkers,
who are also known as our classmates from now, because
we have just applied for a free Italian course, which is for the
emigrants to have the chance to learn about the culture and
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Chapter VI
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competitor for the prize of Love for the first lifting . However,
she really picked up in two seconds some handsome and strong
guys, but one of them was actually with her girlfriend, so
after this conclusion she had to figure out a new theory of her
strategy on our middlelong way to the aimed tram stop. The
theory was born soon. She told me that actually she has just
saved the relationship of this beautiful couple, because I have
to admit that the girl is eyeing the guy with real admiration
because of his masculine exploit. This pride will golden their
entire shared life and they will live happily ever after, of course
because of this. Well, this idea entertained me all the time we
spent on the tram and proved me that Dalma is completely
crazy and I liked it. Her theory was also proved when we got
off the tram, because the mentioned girlfriend encouraged her
boyfriend with a totallyinlove glance to help us again and it
worked, because I landed on the ground successfully again.
The time was our enemy on that day, because we were
in a huge late. Our delay deserved the punishment, because
stepped and rolled, of course at the time when the cash register was already closed, through the entrance of our destination. This was the Museum of XXI. century arts, which has a
cute and megalomaniac nickname in the same time: MAXXI.
Dalma tried to do her best and acted very convincing about
we deserve an exceptional treatment. She built up a complete
plea, which included the fact that Im a journalist, after that
she pointed out the almost always working poor girl, she is
wheelchair scene without laughing which is a real challenge
as she knows me pretty well. She listed the rational arguments,
when she realized that emotional monologues didnt work on
the diehard crew of the museum, which was an unknown and
surprising attitude in Italy. She told me outraged that even in
the United Kingdom would have been shown more willingness
and helpfulness in this case. I was also a bit disappointed, but I
understood that they have to follow the rules. I found them despite of this nice and helpful, just absolutely not flexible. They
could suit in the crew in an average museum of Budapest. After
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our fail Dalma found two opened hall, and she asked that we
can enter or not. The attendant was our partner in crime this
time and he let us in with a typical womanizer Italian wink and
a whispering instruction and advice in the same time, which
sounded like this Hurry up, girls! .
There was nothing in the exhibition room, just deep dark.
Suddenly a screening was started accompanied with strange
sounds and effects. First I felt myself like in a special porn
cinema as giant ass and pussy showed up. As the rhythm of
the music or call that noise what you want turned faster the
screened picture started to gyrate. The laugh broke out of
us and we couldnt stop it. Even my tears were overflowing.
Only the contemporary arts are able to effect me on this way,
however this case was special, because it was double bizarre:
we have fought for this amazing experience for half an hour,
and we entered that room like the winners of the third world
war and got this ass in our face. It was kind of ironic and extremely funny. The second opened room was just the end of
the main exhibition, whose every important part was unfortunately closed this time. We could run by the last installation,
which was a giant amorphous black tube. We have almost left
the stage when Dalma spotted some brochures at the Info Point.
It was about the event, which was planned exactly for that night
of the day, when we visited the MAXXI. When we realized the
coincidence, we understood what is that bustle around us after
closing time. We asked a man, who managed the set up of the
DJ counter about the event. We have already known from the
flyer that its called This Is Rome and it turned out that a
lot of famous Roman artists will take part in the event, but
nothing else was clear. He got really enthusiastic and started to
introduce the party and the meaning of the event in a typically
Italian neverending speech. He told us that it will be a Silent
Disco with eight hundred headphones. He enlightened us that
the entry is free, but officially we everybody should have registered online because of the limited access of the headphones.
At that point Dalma turned on her wellknown puppy eye
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in harmony and sync, just like the frogs on the fields close to
Lorenzos hometown. I got one more beautiful consequence
during the silent disco: these acts of getting in touch with the
stray souls identified this place and this evening, too, not just
San Lorenzo area or specially the Le Mura. Maybe it was everywhere in Rome, and it really heated my heart. However, I
realized that these are the same acts, but in the other hand it
was different. I mean they had the same aims and the same
reasons, but the way how they achieved them was basically
different and it made it very exciting.
The way was different because of the unusual way of listening together music. It made the people there more sensitive for
every little move, glances. The language of the body became
more important. As the Italians are professional in paying attention even if their own opinion about themselves is something
else they have really fit in this idea. That night we havent
talked to anyone but I got in touch and made contact with
several fellows. I realized that one guy has pretty similar taste
to mine, and he realized the same in that moment, so we vice
versa gave a smile after this recognition. Another man came
to dance next to me and he offered a sip from here cocktail,
I havent denied it, however at that point I felt the disadvantage of the wordless communication, because it would have
been great to know that this magic cocktail contains Unicum
or some kind of Italian edition of the typical bitter herbal shots,
which I truly hate. He passed by soon, but I saved this natural
lightness, and I repeat myself again, but as far as this is one
of my main messages of Rome, I pay attention on every little
detail, which transfers information connecting to this message.
After this scene Dalma proved that she is always true to herself,
so she became megacrazy again. Maybe the song titled Shout!
Pushed her madness button, because at the beginning of that
song she pounced on my joystick like the years old children
used to do. She was totally bewildered, she crashed everybody
with my chariot, and we became a real danger to everybody,
but made a nice show for sure. Between two wild rallies cross
Rome as we roll it
through the dance floor she did tribal dance, which made laugh
everybody around us. The hours ran away, so soon we decided
that its time to get back our ID cards. I cant tell that these
werent sweaty moments, when they looked for my ID for long
minutes, but eventually it was found, so we took our night bus
happily, richer with a unique experience.
After the artistic ways of living by night in this municipio
got ticked, I decided that we should take the same piece from
the daytime version. In this period the whole city was stacked
by the huge advertising posters of the upcoming Film Festival.
To be exact, not just the empty walls of Rome, but also my
wall on Facebook, powered by my Italian friends. I was really
curious about the event, but the only information, which I got
this way was that I perfectly saved the date. In the first part of
November everybody had the movie fever, and we got it, too,
but not because of suggestive advertisement, rather because of
an accidental personal meeting with the glamorous atmosphere
of the festival. Valeria unexpectedly won some free time, so she
dedicated it for us. We met in the front of the good old MAXXI,
and waited for any advice that what we should do next. She
came out with the idea to head the Auditorium, which is one
of her favorite places in this area, where she lives. She screened
with her words the seductive teaser of the Auditorium: we
heard about some nice cafs and perfect outdoor spots for a
typical weekend fun time. I was speeding on the bike road and
enjoyed the rare smooth ground under my wheels. In basics
the bike road was something, what I havent seen before in this
city, but it looked like that the richer suburbs own this kind
of luxury, too. The bicycles outstripped me, but their riders
were patient, nobody minded that I was doing my amok in the
forbidden line.
I think the pacing threshold of the people in the Roman
traffic is higher than the average. Everybody breaks the rules,
and they are ready in every moment to handle these trespasses.
Valeria and Nri walked next to me on the sidewalk. Vale
gave the instruction to follow the yellow signs of the bike
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shelters for her, but I felt that they are flips for me, because I
couldnt really reach them.
However, meanwhile I had great and real cosmopolitan fun
with Nri in the nightlife of Rome, which compensated me
from one side. I always felt the civilization and people closer
to my heart just like Nri. Contrarily Anna is obsessed of her
mountains, lakes, and pines here. So, for the first sight the
whole strategy seemed alright. As the tension didnt reduce,
we had to realize that there is still dust in the mechanism
somewhere. Still none of us has found her same old place in
the system. As for me, I missed so many things. I missed our
own valuable time with Anna, which could be calmer and
more relaxed, than the also great moments with Nri. And
I also wanted my own privacy, although it has totally other
meaning, than to the others on this planet. I can only bring
an example from the dark ages of the adolescence. I suppose
that everybody remembers when the doors were closed with
the sound and effect similar to a serious earthquake behind us
after a tempted fight with our parents about the party in the
evening. When the door was closed the sance of escaping was
started. Regarding the level of how mad we are of the world
changed the level and the seriousness of the escaping. I know
people, who have just run a circle somewhere close to their
house, others just wanted to do something forbidden, so they
bought cigarettes, and smoked them all in the city park. I know
that Anna was the special exception, who needed to do more
rebellious things, than these ones. She needed to break the
rules further. She used to take the train, regardless where it
went, she just took it to the land of nowhere.
Well, I used we to be dramaturgically correct, but to be
exact its rather you. My adolescent escapings were more
theoretical. Thanks to the horse power of my wheelchair, I
could create the same earthquake effects with the doors, like
the others, but practically it was the end of my big revenges on
my parents or on the world. No runaway trains, no smoking
break, no fresh air. I had to find an individual way of escaping,
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next to each other very densely, so the visitors could touch and
smooth through the curtain carefully. It was kind of thrilling
feeling for me. This room already gave me a lot, but it was just
the beginning of the cultural shock.
We took a giant elevator to the first floor. This lift could
give place around or more people, but we were the only
and lonely users. I supposed that its constructed to lift up the
installations and sculptors, paintings, to sum up, all the masterpieces of the exhibitions, too. As the doors of the elevator
opened we found ourselves in the front of the introduction of
Jan Fabre on the huge white wall. It was a new name for me, so
I read it all with curiosity. My eyes couldnt find a single point,
where was no craziness. He painted with his own blood, shot
a movie about aggressive fights, cut hundreds and thousands
of dollars and created montages and collages out of the small
pieces of the money. The spaces in the museum were so giant
that I couldnt see the end, however it was only one hall. There
were some corners, which werent directly in our way, but
these guarded some very interesting creations of Fabre. The
ground got steeper, which took us to the arts for ones, who
paid attention to the small details. It was challenging to slalom
between the sculptures and installations on the hills inside the
museum and not to crash or hurt them, but at least this artistic
solution of the architecture made the whole building accessible
for me.
The part of Jan Fabre was finished with his military clothing
obsession, which gave me less excitement, than the steep rally
cross. The color of the walls changed from white to vibrating
red. It meant that it was the turn of another artist, an Italian one,
who was as crazy as Jan, but of course in a southern style. It
means for me that less depressed and more cheerful, although
kind of nasty and absurd at some points. The first room of
Francesco Vazzoli exhibition brought the taste of ancient Rome
to the present but in a very contemporary way, of course. The
classic sculptures about the muscular and masculine naked
men were turned in front of each other, and from these poses
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it seemed like they would eyeing and flirting each other with
their glances. The gay gladiator guys made me laugh, and I
thought its really an entertaining interpretation. In the other
hand Anna found them less gorgeous. The provocative mixes of
arts werent over yet. The sculptures of the antic Roman gods
and goddesses were standing in a nice queue, holding TVs in
their hands. In each TV we could see different shows. This line
was placed in the middle of the red hall. On the walls there were
several paintings of Vazzoli, but there was one, which especially
caught me. It was actually a copy of Gustav Klimts The kiss,
which was already checked by me in the palace of Belvedere in
Vienna. However, I know that this painting is a clich, but Im
always mesmerized by the intimate hug of the lovers on that
painting. Vazzolis version was caricized the clich effect, so
he turned it to the side. The flip wasnt unknown for me, Ive
already seen it before, somewhere under the shadow of the
Colosseo, in Leonardos room on the wall. It drew that time a
wide smile on my face. This time not the solution made laugh,
but the coincidence. Moreover, I was rather wondering about
that its a coincidence, or Leo is a copycat, and he was inspired
by Francesco Vazzoli.
After I got over of this funny episode, we headed to the
second floor, which was at all an installation and we were the
part of it. I could drive up to there, because a curving ramp
directed there. Ive rarely faced this kind of diversity that I
can choose between elevator and ramp. We found ourselves
in the middle of the audience of a cinema. Anna took place
on a chair, while I discovered all the photos, which were
printed on the other chairs. Vazzoli painted teardrops on
every faces with glimmering lacquer. A movie was screened,
which was directed by Francesco, which meant it was full
of awkward situations, which made the audience blush. At
the end of this exhibition we had to interrupt our visit in
the Maxxi, because I had an appointment with Valeria
minutes later. And we still needed to cram in to this short
time a tiny pee break.
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Chapter VII
Islands
Vatican city and its neighborhood, lIsola Tiberina
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prefix number, than Italy, it has own post, own bank, and own
borders, which is pretty strict, so its a real mission to get to
the blessed saint side, but I will talk about it later. In the other
hand I have one more cause, which is not about the facts, but
about the spirit. Im not really involved to catholic religion.
Sometimes I feel that The Church build mistakes on mistakes,
declare faker saint words, than any prime minister or any
cruel cheater of the world. The difference is just they do this in
the name of God or Jesus. So, I used to tell that I believe, I have
the God in my soul, and I can find our relationship perfectly
in my room, or while Im walking on the streets. After these
pretty tough words, I still have to share that every time, when
Im roaming around the Vatican I feel something divine, which
you can smell in the air and which runs through your veins.
This feeling is strong enough to make the decision that besides
the administrative differences, it deserves another plate from
the spiritual point of view, too.
My first shock of the spectacular silhouette of the St. Peters
Basilica is almost one year old now. It was the newborn month
of the year of , when Nri and I were dug into our guidebook somewhere close to the obelisk of the Saint Peters square.
Endless queues were sneaking from our lefts and rights, but
we didnt really care about it. We were overwhelmed by the
blindingly shining marble of the basilica and the enchanting
sounds of the bells from the top of the cupola. Every skip the
line guy attacked us with their unforgettable offers, but we
have already known that right that soon we will find the way
to cut that scary long way to the entrance. The swiss guard
was shining even brighter than the marble, so we interpreted it
like a sign and went there to ask for information, how we can
enter with me and my magic chariot. As they were the swiss
guard they acted oppositely of the typical Italian attitude. They
havent smiled, but they were absolutely serious and correct.
They stepped back and opened free way to us. It felt that we
were the only civilians from this side. A policeman hopped
out of his box at the second controlling point of the Vatican,
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the long road, which linked Castel SantAngelo and the Vatican
together, called Via della Concilliazione.
I have to catch the opportunity, which this sentence gave to
me to declare an important thing. Even if the Vatican City is
pretty small, in its neighborhood we can still feel the heartbeat
of the religion, there I put this area in the same hat, as the
official Vatican. My very first impressions of this lightened level
of the religion hit me on a beautiful, early spring afternoon. It
was on that trip, which I probably havent mentioned before. It
was on my sweet secret escape to Rome, which is one of the
most rebellious ideas of my life, which I made come true. It
was the result of a persistent desire from the depth of my soul
to go back to my beloved city, which is Rome. I had enough, I
booked the cheapest offer of a low cost airlines company, and I
had the aura to convince my flat mate, and good friend Viki to
be my number one partner in crime for this action. It was an
adventure with capital letters, which would honestly deserve
an own story, so I wouldnt start to detail it here. I dont want
to humiliate it with a short summary. But I cut out from the
complete story a short, sweet and absolutely irrational, but
maximally characteristic episode of that novel. And not just
because its superfunny, but because the main character of that
episode is still an important and beloved part of my Roman
life. He is Leonardo, the original, the older, the chronologically
first one, who is a very entertaining and warmhearted, totally
absentminded friend of mine here. I met him for the first time
in the rush of Conciliazione. We were actually chasing each
other. At the point I got to the meeting point, which he has
just left and so on. Finally we found each other, he jumped
out suddenly from a small car. He was attractive in a typical
Italian way. He took of his RayBan sunglasses, and shouted
a Ciao bella! just from routine, of course! He was a bit sick,
which seemed nothing very serious to me, but he talked about
like it would be the disaster of the year. However, its not new
that men love to suffer and to talk about their serious suffering.
He told that he needs ice cream for his throat urgently, you
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know, like first aid. It sounded like a cabaret, but I enjoyed the
show. Leonardo automatically opened the doors of his tiny car,
which effects on me in a way, which made me laugh madly. I
couldnt imagine that Viki and he could manage to cram in my
not so compact wheelchair. However, that time I still couldnt
see the future, which talks about something else, if I think
about the cases, when the other Leonardo hit the road with
me and with my accessories in a cute Fiat Panda. It was one of
my biggest mistakes to decline the offer of that ride, especially
because soon it turned out that my batteries ran out of charge.
So, Leonardo, the older was the victim of the show, which
Leonardo the younger simulated before in the dark night of
San Lorenzo. After his drama, he surprised me so much, that
he pushed me up to the steep roads so cheerfully, like it would
be an everyday exercise for him. He speeded with me on the
wide pedestrian area, which was full of tourists, hawkers, and
nuns. The last group meant a great fun to him. Leo asked me
I cant forget, because it was so unexpected and absurd in a
funny way that I could not answer anything that Have you
ever hit a nun? I guess my silent meant to him that whatever
Ive tried, that time we had to try it together, too. So he aimed
the sisters one by one, and after that we said sorry one by one
like the crashes would have been accidents. We stopped at a
Snack Bar, where he asked for a plug to lend, for my charger,
which was fortunately with us.
More than half year later, but still in the very end of ,
in the company of the human shadow of my oldest friendship
Rzi and his magnificent fianc I cruised the same roads as
we have done with Viki and Leonardo. We jumped by Doma
and Rzis favorite caf from the summer, where they tasted
awesome cappuccino for , euro , and they wanted to show
me. We were surrounded by priests, and we played the silly
game that who will find more sexy ones of them. The most
exciting part was, when Rzis boyfriend joined our game too,
at the point when he felt bored enough to do that. When we
were recharged with caffeine we headed to the street, where my
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blocks which exactly bordered the ghetto in the past. The tiny
alleys covered by cobblestones were decorated with tons of little jewish restaurants, which combined the Italian cousin with
the kosher cousin. The scents were seductive, but we all agreed
that this time we are hungrier for the culture, than for the food.
We spotted the entrance of Museo Ebreico di Roma, so we
decided that it will be our next unexpected stop. I was ready
to fight with the crowd of the tourists as it used to happen in
the museums of Rome, but there were just few people were
hanging around, waiting for the official guide. No surprise that
I had to go on a secret path to get in the synagogue and the
museum. The synagogue had a pretty cool ramp just like all
the main churches and papal basilicas in the city. We had three
different guides from the Italian jewish community besides
Matteo. The first one was an older woman, who showed the
main synagogue around and told the story of the Italian jews,
which I partly knew, thanks to the knowledge of our new friend.
Ursula, our guide mentioned that the oldest synagogue is in
Florence, at that point I noticed the smile of pride of the origins in the corner of Matteos mouth. Budapest has a gorgeous
jewish temple, but shame or not, Ive never been there, so for
me it was also new that every men have to wear kipa inside the
synagogue regardless they are practicing the religion or not. I
had to take the stair elevator, which took me to the cellar level,
where the museum and the Spanish synagogue were found.
The organization was pretty flawless, especially because we
didnt have to pay anything. I mean me and Anna, of course
its impossible to enter a jewish church for free to everyone,
but I could enjoy again the benefits of being in a wheelchair.
We got a phone guide, which educated us about the Italian
jewish architecture, habits, traditions, and history. In the Spanish synagogue a younger colleague enlightened us about some
details of the Catalan and Castilian jews lives in Italy. As we
finished the tour in the museum, we said goodbye to Matteo.
I know that he is a person, who will never be attached to any
place or any person. I knew that its possible that he will change
Rome as we roll it
was complaining about some details in connection with writing, which Ive already started to use. Leo took his camera as
always, so we were posing constantly with the ruins, without
the ruin, with each other in all the existing combinations, were
joking, and had really great time together. The day of lIsola
Tiberina taught us to enjoy the surprises of the times when we
need to be off the roads, which were originally planned. Our
quartet headed from Teatro Marcello right to the famous hill
and the romantic heights of Capitoleum. All things we started
in the shadow of the Museo Ebreico di Rome, we continued
there, but I wont start to detail the happenings of the steep
streets of Capitoleum, because it would really stream us too far
from the original topic, just like in space, but either in meaning.
Despite of this the jewish district in my story is attached to
the island, or the island is a starter of the exploration of the
jewish quartier and of course Matteo. As a final, I would like
to put to the margin of the second part of this chapter one of
my favorite quotes of Just kids, which is also in the lyrics
of a Patti Smiths song: Paths that cross will cross again . I
think its a perfect summary for Leo and his friends case, the
meaning of my meeting with Matteo, and even the answer
for my certain worries about the future and the troubles with
my relationships in Rome in connection with the future. If
they have future, I have to believe: Paths that cross will cross
again .
Chapter VIII
This is a chapter which gives the chance to draw on my imagined map a proud line from the origo to the edge of the horizon. I would start the line from a cute hidden hill, margined by
walls, near to blonde river. This is one of my secret shelters in
Rome, which I havent introduced yet, however I appreciate it
on the spiritual level, what it truly deserves. This point on the
imagined map is one of my petrol stations, as I like to use this
metaphor. This is minutes by walk from Piramide / Ostiense,
and my slowed speed caused by berms is also calculated. This
is the graveyard of the great foreign talents. Fortunately, it
could be the best example of the nontouristic oasis. It guards
the memory of Keats, Shelley, the son of Goethe, and the famous Italian philosopher Gramsci and more great artists of the
world. It is placed on a hill, of course like every important and
stunning monuments of the Eternal City. This topographical
phenomenon meant that I had to crawl up that hill. Ive already
done it with Anna in the summer heat, so now we did the .
version of this fight. It wasnt easy because the little pebbles
made the steep way up more difficult. However, the previous
experience gave a bit of routine, so I wasnt afraid of do it again.
From the upper level we could see all the famous tombs together. Ive never felt comfortable in graveyards before. Its very
difficult to me to face the concept of death. Im still searching
for the reason, but I know that I cant accept the finiteness,
although I know this is the rule of the life or the order of the
Rome as we roll it
that we are fresh and young enough to climb and crawl it. The
right answer was of course a selfconfident yes with capital
letters. The weather was capricious, while we were walking up
on the way to one of the seven hills of Rome, called Aventino.
When I turned right the sky was so dark, which seems almost
black. The wind was blowing with the strength of the mother
nature. We heard even a threatening thunder, as it was echoing
from far away. In the other hand, the temperature was unusually warm, and the sun shined madly compared the fact that
it was winter, when it could penetrate the massive, stubborn
clouds. It reminded me of a summer day in Rome, when the
showers characterized all our days. We hang out at Piazza del
Popolo, when matrigna struck on us with all the scary performances of a crazy storm. This is the Italian expression, which
was taught by Lorenzo. Literally it means step mother, but
people often use, when the weather is moody, like on the day
of the Aventinos discovery. When we arrived to the top of the
tops, we met a towering, strictly standing iron gate. There was
a hardly visible keyhole on it. I dug out a story from my memories about a famous keyhole. I didnt know from who I have
exactly heard about it, maybe it was an innocent anecdote from
Le Mura, but it can also happen that Ive read it in my guidebook during our first flight from Budapest to Ciampino. The
basic mustknow thing about the keyhole is the view which
it offers to the cupola of the St. Peters Basilica. The heights
entrapped me again, although Im everything but not acrophobic. The problem was how the keyhole was optimized. It was
perfect for standing people, but in my sitting position I was
under the minimum limit of the smallsized but spectacular
view. Anna and Nicola peeked through the hole, obviously they
got totally excited by the fascinating visual experience, while I
tried not to focus on the action, which I had to miss, but the
other beauties, which were around me. Every time, when I
need to face the situation that there are things which will stay
determinately covered and unknown for me, I can find another
keyhole, where I can peek and see a whole new word. Its a
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
to me, except its lights and colors, because last time when I
walked the same way it was night time. I took a look in every
inner garden. These gardens identify pretty much this area, but
they are also similar to old buildings of Budapests center. It
was possible to enter in every single inner garden, but some
of them said stop to me with few steps. I felt the adrenaline
of the mischiefmaker kids, who are roaming on forbidden
fields. We spent few minutes in the most attractive gardens of
Garbatella. Some of them had orange and banana trees, but
the lush vegetation was guaranteed in all of them which is a
surprising contradiction regarding the general semidarkness
because of the tallness of the buildings. The wall didnt let too
much sunshine in, although the sky was flawlessly clear. The
sound of the televisions drifted out, while the drying clothes
on the rope were dancing in the wind.
I spotted a corner, where the djvu caught me on the
highest level. I was almost sure that this was the place, where I
stayed with Viki during our secret trip, which wont be a secret
anymore. I was ninetynine percent sure that the building,
where we stood, was the house of Alessandro. He was our
host on the first and extremely hectic day of the trip in April.
The steps, which directed to the typical inner garden reminded
me of the fight how we got in Alessandros home. It was late
night, all of us felt super tired and washed out and nothing was
optimized to my wheelchair there. The steps were high, the
entrance was narrow, the room was crowded, and our host was
a bit grouchy. All the physical obstacles mean actually nothing
to me or these obstacles just seem to be an exciting teasing for
me, just some funny challenge.
This sentence is true until there is nobody, who has another
interpretation of these obstacles. My world is enviously idyllic,
but watch out, because it works like a chameleon, which causes
me sometimes pretty much annoyance. Anna used to tell me
that my mood is like a chameleon, so the definition comes
from her. She always helps to identify some dark side of my
personality, and I have to be grateful for this. It is a nice and hard
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
like a toddler, who lost her mom, but Anna zigzagged comfortably and selfconfidently between the buses, as we got off the
mysterious bus number .
We broke our unwritten rule, which says: in this charmingly
chaotic country, its more useful to involve in the mass of cars,
if you have wheels like me. In this case, this declaration seemed
to be too dangerous, regarding it was a six lane road. The
pavement was old, used, bumpy and narrow as always. The
unexpectedly appearing signposts were just pretty cherries on
the top of the cake. Every time I bumped into one of them, I
turned my Chuck Norris mode on, when I risked to take over
it in an artistic way. Two of my wheels were in safety, but the
other two were levitating in the air powered by Annas modest
help from my back. We passed by a parking zone, and soon we
arrived to our destination. We stepped and rolled through the
widely yawning gate. From every side we were hugged by the
mother nature. First we followed the claycolored dirt road for
long meters and meters. Anna encouraged me that this way
is hundred times more wheelchair accessible, than the other
parts of Parco Appia Antica, which she has already discovered
in peaceful loneliness. Our path was breezily margined by the
tombs of the great Roman warlords and emperors. Sometimes
the stones were changed by the familiar towering pines, which
look like a supergreen baobab, stolen from Africa. It was sunset,
so the landscape was painted in irresistibly romantic and warm
colors. The whole atmosphere was like the rare moments of
the perfect harmonization of the realitys stage and the stage of
the most impossible dreams. There wasnt noise, werent cars
or shouting, stressed people. We were swimming in the sweet
sea of the past and a kind of healthy isolation from the everyday
routine. Both of us need this kind of intermezzos, when we
remind ourselves that in this half year, we are the basic parts of
a real magic.
The idyllic feelings were extending as I realized that it was
the first time when I caught the actual and current moments of
the arrival of someone important from home. The Ciampino
Rome as we roll it
Chapter IX
Visual effects
Parco degli Acquedotti, Cinecitt, S. Elena
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
what?! It didnt feel that I should split it out. I felt like I would
say Before we meet, you need to know, I have green eyes
and I wear peachcolored nail polish . Well, these days I still
feel awkward in the moments of the big confession, although
Ive already accepted that in many cases it has the importance.
Once when I met a Couchsurfer in Prague I simply forgot to
mention it, and first he passed by us many times. Soon he realized Im the one, who he is looking for and then he couldnt
get out for two hours from the vicious circle of confusion. If
I think about the community of Couchsurfing there are two
different kinds of encounters. The ones, when Im staying at
someones place and the other one when I host somebody
or meet somebody. The first one is clear as hell. Regarding
the conditions of their home like stairs, doors and other small
obstacles I naturally tell about the fact that Yeah, Im sitting
all day long, like a lazy queen . It has never caused any kind
of confusion, especially because their pacing threshold is way
higher than an average humans pacing threshold. Maybe the
reason of this phenomenon is that theyre meeting so many
genuine people from all around the world that its difficult to
show them something completely new.
The other group is a bit complicated, because who didnt
use to host people regularly is not always so couchsurferlike. I
mean these people can have an average human attitude. In the
other hand, for them I need to find a way to confess, because
its not that obvious mustdo thing like with the first group. So
Eugenio made me hesitate a bit, although my intuitions whispered that he is a bright, attentive, and cool guy, which means
together that hopefully I cant surprise him with the facts. Fortunately I could be sure that my supposition was right, when
I saw his face. He was smiling, but not just with his mouth,
with his eyes too, which expresses in the best way the sincere
happiness. He introduced himself, and from then we continued
the handshaking, because he introduced us to everyone, who
was around. At the entrance just few people were hanging
around, but they were the beating heart of that event. We met
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
Chapter X
Offthepath adventures
Rebibbia, Monte Sacro, Conca dOro
Rome as we roll it
Bs line, plus there worked a friend of us from the Italian language school. He is from Egypt, therefore I got the supposition
that this can be a pretty multicultural area, which doesnt mean
anything bad, but really promised something completely different from Parioli (well, maybe not so different from Termini
and Esquilino, which are also the central districts. But we have
to be clear, Rome works this colorful, literally). An image also
swam in from the past about Monte Sacro. A couchsurfer told
me that there are many wine tasting on the hills, which meant
to me, this zone could have similar features as Libya. With this
deficient background knowledge and itchy feets and tires we
headed in line all these areas, started with Rebibbia.
It hasnt mattered before, which trains run in to Piramide
station, which heads to Rebibbia or Conca dOro, therefore I
havent realized that how much we have to wait for the proper
train. We almost hung around the station twenty minutes,
when the right metro arrived. It underperformed the averages
of the buses. Regardless my partiality towards Rome, still I have
to admit that the public transportation doesnt really suit to a
capital city, but I can forgive this, because I have plenty of time,
and it gives me in exchange so many beauties, as my only task
to find these beauties here. Although I can imagine, if people
should be on time and go to work day by day, this situation
could drive them crazy. I was stuck in at least seven peoples
close, warm, and pretty smelly hug accidentally because of the
crowd, although I could peek out sometime from the window.
Some stops were on the surface and not in the deep, which
meant I could put together slowly my expectations.
My conclusion about the instant and random changes was
confirmed by the sights. In one second there were big and
toweringly tall blocks of flats all around, and in the other glance
I faced blooming fields and breathtaking nature. Finally we
arrived to Rebibbia, and surprisingly all the mechanic help
system, also known as elevators transported us without any
obstacle from the underground to the top of the world. Based
on my previous research there should have been a park very
Rome as we roll it
close, but all we could see from the stop were supermarkets,
black people, who tried to sell roses for Valentines Day with
magical persistence, and older dwelling houses. The shine
of the sun was so strong that I couldnt see the map on the
screen of my smartphone, but it didnt make me feel desperate,
because I knew it perfectly that Annas intuitions used to be
better, than any professional map. So again, and as I got used
to it, I followed her with the maximally level of trust. We went
up to hill.
The road was steep, as in general here, but not extremely,
so my little magic car could keep the average speed. From
our lefts and rights lovely family houses toed in line. These
little gardens, tiny windows and brown or green shutters made
me feel like Id be in vacation area close to a lake like Bracciano, north from Rome, or next to the amazing sea in Anzio.
The air was unbearably fresh like we would have wander in
the mountains, however we could still hear the noises of the
traffic around the station. The road soon became a blind alley, it meant we reached our wish, which was nothing else
but the Parco Urbano di Aguzzano. The typical scheme happened with us, when its time to conquer a park of Rome. I
expected something foreseeable, and instead of this we got the
infinite green cavalcade of pine, several trees, kneehigh grass,
mossy stones spiced with some paths of wanderers and strange
abandoned houses, moreover ancient and also abandoned little outdoor theater. Wherever we stepped in this reservation,
surprise followed surprise. It felt like we would have changed
dimension, and the one, where we walked around, has nothing
to do with the reality, where the metro was speeding before.
Time and space were expanding and narrowing like a DNS
chain. I couldnt decide its a time travel, or we found ourselves
in the middle of nowhere, or in another country.
From far everything seemed like a fairytale, and I felt crazy
desire to look around from as close as possible, but it was still
an issue that this terrain can be compatible with my nonrally
tires or not. It was in question that how much I can approach
Rome as we roll it
more than one month, and they really dont know, when we
can use it again.
It meant that its not an option to hang up simply the program and try it on another day. We needed to find a new and
less direct way, which hasnt made me completely sad. From
our Rebibbia trip I remembered the bus stop at the entrance
of the metro station. Pictures flashed back that on the front of
many bus at Conca dOro was marked as a frequented station
or as the final station. So, we went to Tiburtina, where the two
arms of the line are interweaving and changed the direction.
At the stands of Rebibbia, we crossed the giant avenue to get
to the right and bright side. We spotted two lines, which theoretically could take us right to Conca dOra. The bus number
was the winner of the show, as it ran in sooner. The happiness increased when we recognized that rarely noticeable
(because of inexistence) ramp at the middle door of the bus.
It worked mechanical way. Maybe it would be the obligation
of the driver to open it, but Anna used to be quicker, and this
time she opened it sooner again, than the driver could have
twinkled one, although this project ended with an accident,
which made our following days very and extremely diverse.
The handle of the ramp sloped out of Annas hand and the
weighty iron ramp fell to her finger, what she had to use so
many times in the hectic Italian traffic, and which used to be
so useful in these cases. Finally we found ourselves on the bus,
as for me with a bit of worry towards Anna, as for her with a
lot of pain.
However, all these bad feelings were pushed down by the
surprising sociological case study, which we got as a gratis.
The travelers of bus number were unexpectedly colorful
regarding skin, age, education and physical appearance, but
also how they contacted each other. It was actual rush and
claustrophobic crowd on the bus. The teenagers were teasing
each other constantly, which ended in smaller fights. But not
only had they used their fists and muscles to win some space
to sit down, or to inhale some oxygen. It seemed like wolf
Rome as we roll it
laws would rule this district, but I wasnt scared of it. The
time of the journey was enough to get used to it. Moreover, I
had a really great conclusion after the ride about the instant
attentively in the simplicity, what I found. A bunch of sixteen
years old guys in jogging, with shiny earrings were tussling
behind my back. It seemed kind of serious, but one of them
warned the others to watch out, because Im staying also
there. The guys stepped back and left some extra space for
me, and then they continued their fight. This reaction was
something, what I honestly appreciated. They cant deny that
my situation is different and it needs different way to handle, if
you accidentally find yourself on the same bus, as me than the
other buddies on the board. But this recognition hasnt caused
confusion for them for a single second. They played their little
games and acted in an absolutely natural way. Some people
with wellironed suits and laptop bags could stare me with
worried eyes, but they couldnt move away ten centimeters,
when they are staying in my way, when I would like to get
out of the train, for example.
Allora, not only the happenings and impressions of inside
was very instructive. As we were watching out of the dirty
window, we also met a completely new and distant point of
view from our current reality. The style of the houses was
changed suddenly. Around Rebibbia the blocks were more
modern, colorful, and welltreated, but we curved fast the
meters and meters and eventually we reached a poor and grey
neighborhood. On the left side of the road the floor tall
blocks stood in lines with broken or barred windows on the
ground floors and on the first floors even. If we are naive, we
can suppose that kids playing soccer were the wicked ones,
who have broken them with the ball, but sincerely it was again
about that previously mentioned wolf laws. On the right side it
was a neverending prairie spiced and colored with the vans
of gipsy caravans. They were all very abandoned and old. The
view was like a cut picture of a Kusturica movie. The vans
were covered with colorful canvas and veils all around. It felt
Rome as we roll it
the station signs because the traffic was so rare in this direction.
Our magic van was curving crazily. This journey was indeed
Italian, colored with the surprising usage of the brakes and the
noisy horns behind us. We passed our station, before I could
notice the name of it, therefore we got of at the following stop,
as a perfect and chill plan B. The bus stopped without any traffic
island, so we needed to face a huge difference in level, but we
got pretty much used to it. Things like these couldnt make
us cry after we have been lived here, in the sweetly chaotic
Rome for months. The better acting we show the more help
we get in these cases obviously this could be our motto.
For the Pietralata trip we should have won the Oscar prize, as
Leonardo DiCaprio couldnt, because so many people ran to
help us with pleasure.
In this area not just the traffic islands missed in the bus
stops, but also the pavements in general next to the two sides
of the streets, or at least at Via Pietralata. Anna and I tried to go
forward in Indian file, stuck to the parking cars, like we would
have beetled in an action movie to escape from the enemy.
Usually I didnt use to have fear if its time to get involved the
passing cars and other vehicles, but this time the collection was
maybe too diverse with some overly big fishes like camions,
buses and sanitary trucks. This time I became really religious
it happened to me so often here, fortunately. At least now I feel
like my soul would be susceptive enough for spiritual thoughts.
The house numbers were decreasing by leaps and bounds
and in an unbelievably illogical way, but it is a totally ordinary
phenomenon in this city, so none of us was really surprised.
We looked for the number , which was partly the name of
the place, what we spotted before. I read an article about the
unique presence in the Roman artist world and nightlife of
Luficio , thats why I thought I should crown this chapter
with it. According to those pieces its a bright loft with a lot of
sunshine and exceptional atmosphere. I was always the fan of
these kinds of hidden places. We passed the searched number,
because we were seeking label or any other sign that it is a
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
Chapter XI
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
was so obvious that the ritual of fishing was the basic part of
his life, like the oxygen for all the humans around us. He took
it extremely serious, like a job, or even more like a mission.
The other guy only had fun. He probably found some boring
gap in his schedule, and he filled it up with a peaceful and a
bit lonely program. His face was emotionless, maybe also a
bit bored, because he yawned over and over again. He checked
his watch in every five minutes, which planted the flea in my
ear, that maybe he will have an appointment soon, and he has
been already planning his next hours. The bite of the fish didnt
really matter for him.
At that repeated djvu movement, when he shook his wrist
to set his expensive watch in a better and more comfortable
position, something has happened. The stretched picture was
broken, and it started to move. The calm surface of the water
has become muddling. He rode the windlass of the fishing rod
with excitement with an adolescent satisfaction on his face.
The desperate fish thrashed itself about on the ground until
his body has given up the fight. It was over. The fisherman put
the dinner in a box, what he could take to a romantic picnic
or to his home to represent his homemade specialty if I
let my fantasy flow, it can be also an option. When the young
guy reaped all the credit, the old man hasnt realized anything
about the happenings and circumstances around him, because
he was focusing hundred percent on his mission, with capital
letters. The young guy left the stage soon, meanwhile the old
fisherman held the rod with trembling hands. While the other
guy bagged the booty, me and the grey haired gentlemen kept
on fishing. He did it in reality, meanwhile I have done the same
in the jumbled jungle of my mind, looking for meanings and
reasons in the tons of weighty thoughts.
My mood has become a bit melancholic. This episode
proved me that in life people who dont care about the advantages, because they cant value it, will get it sooner and
easier, than the ones, who could be characterized with absolute devotion. I have waited ten more minutes as I wished to
see how the old man gets his prize, what he deserved because
of his enthusiasm. My wish couldnt come true, but I left the
pier with a great and optimistic consequence and with a wide
smile on my face. Before I turned around on the jetty I stared
deep into his eyes, it felt like watching the stars, they were
shining steadily. I can imagine that on that day he returned
home with empty hands, but I was convinced by his glance:
he wouldnt have been upset in this case, because it makes
him wake up on the next day. He could be happy and satisfied
without the prize, because to him the progress was the real
gift. Its like playing lottery, we do it, even if we know that the
statistics proved billion times that its almost impossible to win
it. Anyway, the adrenaline and other additional feelings always
are compensating enough.
I paralleled the story of two fishermen with life. Sometimes
I feel like Im struggling hard to keep my body together, to hold
my head on my neck, to breathe deep if I have flu, or simply
caught, or move my fingers in a very cold night to pick up my
phone (these are completely simple and tiny movements of my
life). Sometimes I feel like I put more effort than my borders
would let me stretch, and I used to feel also, that Im able to
push myself with this huge energy in this fight, because I want
to get my deserved prize. In this bewildered craziness I realized
that I dont know what kind of prize I want. I could not define
it. I have also found the answer for this contradiction. I have
so many prizes, at each level, that actually with my abilities in
maths couldnt let me calculate with them. I found so many
ways to get out of a metro station, go home by night in the deep
night of Rome, steal mens coats not to feel that its freezing
outside, have conversation, which showed the biggest beauties
of almost unknown peoples souls. And for now I won a ticket
to ride into the sand of Roma Lido, more accurately in the sand
of Lido Centro.
We followed the sidewalk next to the railings. When we
have found an opened door, we hoped that we can reach the
coast, but most of them directed to fancy restaurants and cafs,
Rome as we roll it
Rome as we roll it
I knew that its always a lot about the technics. There are many
sheet acrobats in Italy, well, I wanted to be a tricky sand acrobat
after them. My snobbish independence drove me pretty deep, I
mean literally deep. My wheels dug themselves like a little mole.
It was comfortably placed there, I couldnt move, but I really
didnt need to move. The sand around my tires functioned
like brakes, nobody could have stolen it, and it couldnt have
gone away by its own, neither. We put down a blanket and
made our tiny individual picnic at siesta time at the coast. We
brought from home pasta with tuna, lemon, and olives. We ate
it like real hippies, from the same plate, with three different
forks. The sea was colored by surfers and wake boarders. I
entertained myself watching them falling in the clumsiest ways
to the water. It was like a perfect parody, meanwhile Anna and
Dalma collected some shells, as souvenirs and decoration for
our little residence. When the sunset has arrived, we decided
take the last shines of it and ride away with them. We wanted to
show our backs to the beach, therefore it took its own revenge,
because I couldnt get out of the jail of the cave, what my
motors created before. It meant that it was time for Dalma and
her private seducing show. In five minutes she came back with
one blondy Leonardo DiCaprio with extraordinary biceps and
triceps, and two chubby retired men, who were up to help us,
while they were shooting jokes constantly. Dalma wanted to
picture every experience, especially these embarrassing ones,
because she was obsessed of them. My brand new crew posed
with us happily, after they shot me to the moon, or at least to
the pavement. However, these kinds of stories will be always
unforgettable, but we had our next mission. Next time we
wanted to find an even more comfortable and accessible beach
on the line of RomaLido. Although if I dont want to lie to
myself, this decision wasnt born because of our comfortzone,
but rather because of our curiosity. We wished to discover new
stops and live new experiences, obviously with new starring
on our side. Before we left this area behind us, we spotted
one more thing to feed ourselves with some spirituality. It was
Rome as we roll it
here in this season. Most of the beach entrances and cafs were
closed. It was a real challenge to get close enough to the waves,
however in this case not the mounds were our enemies. We
found one opened gate, but it was barricaded with sandbags.
Anyway, it didnt mean serious obstacle for us. I pushed some
of them away with my wheelchair, meanwhile the girls kicked
them out of our way. It was a real representation of teamwork.
It took few short minutes and the way was free towards the
empire of pirates, to the blue sky and good winds. This pedestrian alley in the endless sea of sand directed longer, than the
one at Lido Centro. This one was almost licked gently by the
stretching waves. I was reading there The unbearable lightness of existence by Milan Kundera, while the girls went for
a new and usual shell hunting tour. The sea was always for me
a big sance of get rid of bullshit with a book, it could be at
the shores of Ostia Centro, or the coast of Cristoforo Colombo,
doesnt really matter. We were walking parallel with the line
of the water, but outside of the territory of the beaches. A nice
little caf appeared soon, which we attacked immediately as
we were about to run out of the spare caffeine. It was opened,
but we were the only guests near and far. Maybe thats way or
maybe just because of the average Italian huge hospitality we
got the hundred percent of the attention. Next to our supertasty cappuccinos we found little cakes and some chocolate as a
present. This round looked like all the typical winter session of
us at the sea. Nri used to call it as a little tour of inspiration .
This definition determined that during her stay in Rome we repeated this round a couple of times, and we couldnt get bored
of it. We conquered this paradise in the morning, when the
sun has hardly risen behind the resorts, villas and block of flats.
We settled down for few hours, when it was mezzogiorno,
before a sightseeing trip. We found ourselves here in the afternoon until the stunning double sunset. Only the water is
able to give you a double shock of this beautiful phenomenon.
One on the horizon and the other one, where the whole world
is upside down, in the mirror of this deep blueness. When I
had this visual charging, I used to hit the night of San Lorenzo
or Monti with doubled energy in the doubled statement of
freedom.
The winter edition of these wanders was always like being
in a fairytale. We were always a bit separated in a magical
bubble from the things outside. There were no people, just few
dogs and its companion. It was totally the opposite of the sweaty
holidaylike days, when we could shamelessly get a bit buzzed
by our Pina Coladas, or when the summer hits have flattened
from the closest bar, which was still full of life and fun. The fact
that it was an opposition doesnt mean I didnt like it both. So,
of course we showed it like proud mothers to every guest of us
from Hungary, not just to Nri, who was actually a partner in
crime to discover it. The two impressions are completing each
other. These two different kinds of feelings, which I could relate
to the seaside havent given a full image yet. The spring breezes
which have been eventually experienced already in the very
middle of February at Cristoforo Colombo were still missing
to represent my emotions towards this area accurately.
The temperature climbed zealously upper and upper until
it has reached unexpectedly the twenty Celsius degrees. To
celebrate this late birthday present from the fate to me, we
decided to ride the hysteric and capricious RomaLido train
again, what we havent done since the trip in December with
Annas brother. This period was full of birthdays, so the day
given for the sea wasnt only my birthday wish. We were visited
by Tlia, who paints and she wanted some landscape models.
One of them was Lake Bracciano alone, and the other was the
saltier water in our companion. I percept some little changes.
I could count a bit more Asian tourists and less school kids
on the train. It was also a bigger amount of cars at the parking area of the beach of Cristoforo Colombo. I got more chit
chats around us, more babbling babies, and laughing little
children with their caring parents. And yes also the number of
the slapstick dogs were multiplied. It was the early renascence
of the summer rush. The routine has chained us, therefore
Rome as we roll it
despite the fact that it was kind of new season we still couldnt
stand not to repeat some beloved episodes. These were my few
lonely philosophical moments at the very and of the pavement,
and for the girls the shell challenge. Meanwhile I was staring
in the nowhere with absentminded glances, I found more
partners for some heartwarming short conversations.
I have met an old man, who took her dog called Luna. He
told me proudly that now we both are part of Lunas first visit at
the sea, because she was so young that she hasnt experienced
something like this before. As I was looking at the dog, I got
the conclusion that there is nothing better and nothing more
instructive than the enthusiasm of the children, doesnt matter
it is a human kid or a dog kid. Actually Luna has stuck a part of
this enthusiasm on me, and I was really grateful to her. Everybody has something which carry him or her forward in this life.
This statement is very evident, although I have started to think
about it this concentrated and so seriously since I moved to Italy.
Every advertisement, every TV show and every expression of
art is organized around the concept of passion. This concept,
which pushes everybody forward without exception, there is
no doubt. The only question left that personally what are the
things which are able to wake up the passion in the souls. I
didnt know the reasons but maybe it was the intention
of destiny but I bumped into the most diverse answers for
this question, without I would have asked anyone. I was just
talking with many valuable people, and somehow sometimes directly, sometimes indirectly this topic swam into the
picture. I got the result that for someone the motivation is the
carrier, whose causes direct far, but they had many acceptable
arguments, and finally we got something immaterial, like travel
around the world. I got from the bunch of dreamers the answer
that the feeling of giving makes you feel that you are alive. A
typical Italian man told me that everything, which helps him
to jump up to a higher level, is the effect of competitiveness.
Others lost something, which were their motivation, and they
couldnt define what it was. It is awkward or not, but I found
the same answer as Luna has found, who was chasing its tail
happily in front of me. The secret thing, which powers me the
enthusiasm.
In the moment when I summed up and defined almost everybody and everything around me with this word, the girls
have got back from the raid. As far as many places have opened
their doors for the visitors, which were still closed last time,
we wanted to pick a new one. We passed by one, which looked
extraordinary fancy, called Caf Venezia. It had two entrances,
one of them directed to a challengingly steep ramp and to
downstairs. Behind the other entrance two options waited for
the guests. One was the stairs to the rooftop, and the other was
the accessible way to the same paradise in the sky. I was really
impressive. I mean we found a way to reach our destination,
but it has been never this easy and unequivocal. Furthermore,
it couldnt hide any error factor, like the elevator used to have.
First we took the steeper ramp, just because I love to warmup
on levels, which promise the bigger adrenaline rush. Fortunately the weather was absolutely dry and warm, so it had a
good effect to the ground. It wasnt slippery, therefore with a
bit of usage the motoric brakes, I could stop the crazy speeding,
so we landed on the level of the beach again well. We were
sneaking into the bar, and tried to stay invisible, which is a
tough mission with me and my garish chariot. We had luck,
because in the opposition of the lost case, now the waiters were
pretty busy with tons of tourists and suntanned locals.
We had a very quick peek to the menu, to place the relation
of our purses and the prices of this place. We had the consequence that in spite of the posh outlook, they matched, so we
could attack a free table. Regarding the sun smiled on us without a single cloud, we turned out from the indoor space, and
went for the other ramp, which directed to the roof terrace
and to the cozy deck chairs. Anna had itchy feets this time
or simply she wanted to be alone for a while this feeling
easily comes here, so I could totally understand it , therefore
she went for a walk, meanwhile me and Tali found our perfect
Rome as we roll it
the fact that an area like that stores so many surprises and so
many treasures to explore.
We took the train to Lido Centro and then we changed the
platforms without any inconvenient surprise. We prayed hard,
and our prayers were listened, because the lifts worked well,
so we ruled the rails with huge smile on our faces to Ostia
Antica. We havent counted with the surroundings outside
of the station. We expected the same circumstances, which
welcomed us at any other neighborhood in this area. We got
used to a wide avenue with zebras, but we havent dealt with
wide avenues without zebras, but with unclimbable overpasses.
First I had tremendous djvu. I was afraid that the heights
will stop me again. This time I couldnt bow this fact, because
the picture of Ostia Antica was floating so acutely in front of
my eyes. I couldnt let this experience go, because I felt that it
will be a milestone of my Rome, even if I have had no idea how,
but it was a strong and sure intuition. We stayed puzzled and
helplessly in the middle of a parking zone, facing the tall and
towering stairs, which took the people to the other side of the
road, where were all the historical magic, what we wanted to
aim, too. I was a bit mad of the world at that time, and in the
lack of other people, who could work as lightningarrester, all
my anger was banged on Anna. We found a map, where was
marked all the sights in the near.
Anna was a little bit calmer, than me, so with clear mind she
was able to find a way, where we could cross the road without
steps. She walked very fast towards that direction. I couldnt
decide it was only because her dynamical way of living, or she
was also so angry that she had to deduct her bad energies, too.
The sidewalk was overly cloddish to hurry with my wheelchair,
so as a protestation I gave up for few minutes and I stopped in
one place like an offended little girl. It took surprisingly long
for Anna to notice that she lost me somewhere behind her. Its
also a mystery that she really hasnt noticed that I was missing
or just like a good teacher she wanted to teach me that these
tension moments arent right for acting in this hysterical way.
Rome as we roll it
We are obviously not these kinds of girls, and she knew that.
We didnt use to give up that easily. It was like our minds would
have been a bit connected to each other, because I have started
to approach her alone on that challenging and shaky way, and
in the same time she turned around and she was walking back
to my direction. Soon we were walking next to each other,
although still in bigger silence, than we used to be. Soon we
arrived to a crossroad. Both of the ways offered some sights
according to signals, so we pointed one of them randomly.
We had to cross a road with two zebras. At one of them
a traffic light helped us, but the other one was a bit more
complicated task, because there was a huge curve and no lights,
so the only thing we could do to pray and hurry, and repeat
our mantra at least my mantra If I die, I will die in
Italy! , meanwhile we were hunting for an idling. As a spicy
little detail, Anna had to fish me down of a giant berm, and we
had to keep quick this way. After all our worries, we managed
to get to the bright side, and the stone fell down from our
hearts. It was already the earnest of the trials, which were still
waiting for us on the horizon. I realized that the pavement has
become too narrow, so I have decided next to the same routine
way, which I used to take in the center: follow the cars on the
streets, regardless how fast they are or how densely they are
coming.
We have spotted the silhouette of a medieval castle, so we
decided that firstly we will approach that one. It turned out
as we got closer that its a complete castle quartier. When we
entered the enormous iron gate of the quartier, we have found
ourselves in a hidden little village. I felt myself like I would
have lost in a black hole, would have changed dimension, or
like I would have done a time travel. It was a pretty dazzling
feeling. The cobblestones were a bit more shaky and older,
than I got used to in the city center. However, seeing from
the present it was also just a preparation for the upcoming
challenges. Fortunately, my stomach was absolutely empty, so
there werent anything to bother inside. We aimed the second
and a bit shorter gate, which was the entrance of the towering
castle, which looked like an empire of a princess. We hoped
after all the struggle, which we have done that day that every
door will welcome us opened as compensation. Well, it was a
fake expectation, because we found the entrance of the castle
closed. We tried to stay optimistic, so we took some picture
about the breathtaking view, meanwhile we were hunting for
other beauties, which we could approach. At the opposite side
of the castles piazza, stayed proudly a little and simple church.
Between the two monuments cats were fighting in so wild
and instinct way, how I have never seen before. They have
done everything to keep their own territory. As they hurt each
other, the cold was thrilling through my body. They were
also reigning the steps of the church. Anna noticed a small,
but supersteep ramp for me to get in to the church, although
I barely dared to come closer and closer to the bewildered
cats. We have tried to chase away the little monsters, but they
werent scared of humans, moreover they expressed towards
us too with their horrible, tremendous yowling that who is
the boss here. After we played our match with the cats, we
found ourselves somewhere, where it is really possible to feel
the presence of God. The church was tiny also from inside, and
there were hardly few decorations, the walls were severe, but
in the air I could feel the archaic scents of the ancient times. I
felt myself like I would have been enchanted by its power and
energies. I lost my sense of time here, so I realized a bit late
that we should have hurried if we still had wanted to visit the
giant park of Ostia Antica full of ruins.
We followed the same road, where we bumped into accidentally to this cute medieval quartier. We crossed it, because
the cashregister of the park was flashing on the other side.
The nice surprise of the day was that the originally cheekily
expensive ticket was reduced for disabled people and for one
accompanist. Well, not only reduced, to be honest, but absolutely free. We got our shiny tickets and entered the park. First
we hit the road, which was made for cars, because it was way
Rome as we roll it
Chapter XII
Arrivederci Roma
The goulash party
and the memorable episodes of the farewell week
Rome as we roll it
. Arrivederci Roma
Rome as we roll it
. Arrivederci Roma
for the way back. We caught up Nri and Balzs, although they
couldnt stand not to begin their salad picnic under the moon
and the stars.
We let Valeria go, but the night wasnt over for us at all.
We were about to hit our haunt, the Le Mura again. We were
roaming on the streets of San Lorenzo, and I was constantly
convincing myself that I have to accept that this is the last time,
when I can pass by those houses as a local. I have tried to
save every picture, the paintings of the buildings walls, the
windows of every tiny pub, the sounds of the drums at Piazza dellImmacolata. This time even the torching moments
of spending time on the night bus felt nostalgic for me. However, I felt like the all the cars and people outside of the bus
were gyrating, I still couldnt get enough from the night lights
of Castel SantAngelo. Even the adventurous getting off with
mostly drunken travelers from the bus felt like an unique moment of life, which can happen this nostalgic way only once.
I could also smile to the traffic light, which used to trick me
with the imagination that we have reached our street, although
it was just the previous one. I think I needed Nri to save this
moment with the highest dignity, which all these sights, monuments, and hidden corners deserved. Our dense and intense,
repeated vacation in Rome with Nri was a nice starter of my
farewell week, what Ive just started to organize that time.
I have decided that I want to spend quality time with the
people, who took important place in my heart, while I was living here. Some of them hugged around my overall impression
of Rome, some of them were dropped in my life in the most
unexpected moments, suddenly as a lightning arrives. Some of
them defined and determined all my weeks here, and some of
them appeared just for few times, but then they gave me a lot.
Some of them have been and will be on my mind every single
day, and some of them maybe more rarely, but I could guarantee to anyone that all of the people, who I got to know here has
become important to me. Im sure that I could shock everyone
with my head losing performance, even if we have known each
Rome as we roll it
other just for two weeks. All of them could laugh with me,
while I was bouncing on the cobblestones with my magic car
in my clumsy way. After this all of them deserves, and also I
deserve, or to be more accurate, all these relationships deserve
to give them time and not mix everybody together in a big
farewell party, without honest concentration.
I put together my schedule cooperating with this people
with the highest care of me. Tuesday was firstly for Leonardo
from April, my bnb and Ikea king, my number one partner,
when it was time for some psychoanalysis. We have met at
Piazza Risorgimento, which was actually the place, where he
was pushing me up, down, and cross, when my batteries ran
out of energy during our secret trip in last April. He chose for
meeting point lInsalata Ricca, where we ate the best bruschetta,
I have ever tasted. The weather was sad and grey, as my mood
because of the pain of saying goodbye. However, he was able to
make me smile with his scurrilous humor, which I have always
enjoyed. Of course, he was in hurry as in general, so after
our super rapid lunch, he has left the stage unexpectedly and
suddenly, which was the part of his beloved image. Then the
next competitor of the day was Antonio, my editorinchief,
who I met at his favorite place at Periodico, which gifted me
also a lot of impulsive memory. It was the deadline of the April
issue of the magazine, so our last conversation was a bit more
professional, than the one at the goulash party. In addition
as a goodbye present I got from him some useful advice for
planning our trip to Naples.
My Wednesday could be also called as the day of the counterpoles . I crammed in into that twentyfour hours Marzio,
the dottore from the house party, and my strangest Argentinian,
the other Leonardo, who was the spice of my half year here:
it was the bitter, the sweet, and the salty, and the spicy taste
in the same person. First I have met Marzio, although the order was chosen by the fate, which won the meaning later, of
course. I asked him to take me to his favorite place, because I
wanted to bring home totally new pictures too, in my mind.
. Arrivederci Roma
Rome as we roll it
. Arrivederci Roma
2.
3.
Rome as we roll it
Mira Budafoki
1.