Rebozo as An Iconic Fashion Symbol in Mexican Culture

Alejandra Magdalena Martinez Monsivais Sejung Oh

M.F.A. Candidate, Dept. of Fashion Design, Hongik University ,
Ph.D. Candidate, Dept. of Fashion Design, Hongik University

1. Purpose of study
This study aims to investigate how Rebozo, an essential piece of traditional Mexican costume, became such an
iconic fashion symbol in Mexican culture. This is of great importance given that even Mexicans are not well
acquainted with Rebozos origins, believing only in oral traditions and assumptions made from scholars on the
subject during the last few centuries. Peoples opinion regarding this subject seems to be misconstrued. Therefore,
another underlying objective of this study is to condense and to simplify the findings which will clarify the
disclosure on the subject.
2. Methodology
The investigation includes as many academic resources including books on Mexican culture (Steines, 2010) and
Mexican textile tradition focusing on the State of Chiapas (Morris, 2009). The work of Ana Paulina Gamez
Martinez on her Art History Masters degree thesis (2009) was a big contribution to the research because she
very comprehensively reviews the history of Rebozo. Newspapers La Jornada (Juaregui, 2002) and El Universal
(2014) were also used on this research, not because of their mixed historical facts, but because of the interesting
analysis both of them mention on the key role Rebozo plays in past, present and future Mexican society.
3. Result and Discussion
Its interesting how such a simple fashion accesory carries such a big part of Mexican history. Rebozo is
typically a rectangle big enough to wrap an upper part of a body in a loose and comfortable way. Originally, it is
weaved on a loom and the complexity of the design varies along with embroidery and fringe decorations.
People have been trying to locate its origin for years now with little success. Many in Mexican society assume
that, given its weaving technique, it was originated during pre-Columbian Mexico but that seems to be wrong, by
going over what little information is available on that subject after the spanish conquest there is no sign that
Rebozo existed.
Throughout Mexican history there are several important facts that can be categorized as influences on the start,
development and the establishment of Rebozo as the symbol it is.
1) Religious and Political Influences
There are several facts hidden throughout art and literature, before and after the conquest, that suggest that
Rebozo was created after the spanish conquest because of the new law based on catholic church strictness which
prohibited respectable women to wear their hair down, specially in church. As a consequence, indigenous women
were not allowed to wear their traditional clothing and had to cover their heads at all times.
2) Social Influence
In Colonial Mexico, social class division was very predominant, and Rebozos helped in making these distinctions,
first it was used to differentiate indigenous and illegitimate mixed race women from legitimate mixed race and
spanish women, but by mid XVII century it had become a popular and socially acceptable fashion piece, its use
being spread to all social classes. The materials and techniques used were the determinating factors that marked
Rebozos owner as an upper class (silk, fine wool, embroidery, gold and silver thread) or lower class citizen
(plain cotton with minimum detail on the weaving).

3) Practical Influence
This classification persisted even after Mexicos Independence, what changed was Rebozos uses, not only did it
work as a tool for everyday work (carrying heavy weight) and as a fashion accesory, but it was also used for
pawning when needed, as a commemorative work of art through its embroidery and as an important part of
funerals, being worn by both attendees and the deceased in an aromatic version of it.
4) Historical Symbolization
Until early XX century this was how it was used, later it became the symbol for the Mexican Revolution women,
who went to war with their husbands and, in some cases, fought side to side with them. By mid XX century it
was used by intellectuals and artists alike as a symbol of nationality, which was probably the reason of its
continous presence around Frida Khalos shoulders.
Even though these findings expose Rebozos originis as Colonial era and not pre-Columbian, its importance as a
Mexican fashion accesory icon cant be doubted, by several accounts it is known that in pre-Columbian textile
tradition there was a connection between spirituality, religion and textile weaving, so its very interesting that
this iconic textile piece also has its origins on what was the new religion in those times. As fellow fashion
designer Carla Fernandez (Steines, 2010) stated clothes () are more like a portrait of your soul, your history,
your family, and all the generations you carry with you. People get to know you through your clothing. And in
this case its very true, thats why Rebozo is such an important piece of Mexican culture, it carries with it
centuries of Mexican history and the memories of countless members of a new-born Mexico.
4. Conclusion
As a result of this research the origin of Rebozo is clarified an exposed as an XVI century invention derived from
the spanish conquest but none-less Mexican. Given that it was a hugely important part of Mexican costume
through several centuries, its easy to understand how in the past century it was mentioned so frequently, in a
very romantic way by both historians and Mexican literature authors, which is why and how it became an iconic
fashion symbol in Mexican culture.
Finally I would like to add that having found out how and why Rebozo became such a typical Mexican culture
representation, in further studies it would be interesting to investigate how is it that it is known like this
internationally, going further than pointing worldwide famous painter Frida Khalo as an important representative
of Mexican culture, but also analyzing the possible influence of Hollywood films and the general
characterization of Mexicanism through the eyes of United States media and the impact it has had on Rebozo
as a representation of Mexican fashion.
References
El rebozo mexicano, historia artesania y moda. (2014, August, 2). retrieved September 17 2014, from El
Universal Web Site: http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/cultura/2014/rebozo-mexicano-londres-1027512.html
Gamez Martinez, Ana Paulina. El Rebozo. Estudio Historiografico, origen y uso. Diss. Universidad
Nacional Autonoma de Mexico. 2009.
Jauregui Nieto, R. (2002, June, 19). Con hilo entreverado las mujeres tejen toda una historia de identidad.
retrieved September 17 2014, from La Jornada Web Site:
http://www.jornada.unam.mx/2002/06/19/13an1cul.php
Morris Jr., W. (2009). A Textile Guide to the Highlands of Chiapas. San Cristobal de las Casas Chiapas,
Mexico: Na Bolom.
Steines, S. (2010). Revealing Mexico. New York: powerHouse Books
Corresponding Author: Kan, Hosup