Dhaulagiri (1)

The Dhaulagiri massif in Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River west to
the Bheri. This massif is enclosed on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri and on the
southeast by Myagdi Khola. Dhaulagiri I at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) ranks seventh among
Earth's fourteen peaks over eight thousand metres. It was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by a
Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.
The mountain's name is

(dhaulgir) in Nepali. This comes from Sanskrit where

(dhawala) means dazzling, white, beautiful[2] and

(giri) means mountain.[3] Dhaulagiri I is also

the highest point of the Gandaki river basin.

Annapurna I (8,091m/26,545 ft) is only 34 km. east of Dhaulagiri I. The Kali Gandaki River flows
between through its notable gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of Pokhara is south of
the Annapurnas, an important regional center and the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both
ranges as well as a tourist destination in its own right.
Contents
[hide]

1 Geography

2 Dhaulagiri I climbing history

o

2.1 Partial timeline

3 Other peaks in the Dhaulagiri Himalaya

o

3.1 Climbing history

4 See also

5 References

6 Sources

7 External links

Geography
Looking north from the plains of India, most 8,000-metre peaks are obscured by nearer mountains,
but in clear weather Dhaulagiri I is conspicuous from northern Bihar[4] and as far south
as Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh. In 1808 A.D. survey computations showed it to be the highest
mountain yet surveyed.[5] This lasted until 1838 when Kangchenjunga took its place, followed
by Mount Everest in 1858.
Dhaulagiri I's sudden rise from lower terrain is almost unequaled. It rises 7,000 m (22,970 ft) from
the Kali Gandaki River 30 km to the southeast. The south and west faces rise precipitously over
4,000 m (13,120 ft). The south face of Gurja Himal in the same massif is also notably immense.

Lhotse
Lhotse (Nepali:

; Chinese: ; pinyin: Luz Fng; Tibetan:

, Wylie: lho

rtse, ZYPY: Lhoz) is the fourth highestmountain on Earth (after Mount

Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga) and is connected to Everest via the South Col. Lhotse means
South Peak in Tibetan. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above sea level,
Lhotse Middle (East) is 8,414 m (27,605 ft) and Lhotse Shar is 8,383 m (27,503 ft). It is located at
the border between Tibet (China) and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

Climbing[edit]
An early attempt on Lhotse was by the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman
Dyhrenfurth. It also included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two
Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Sphel), and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include
Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was
Gaya Nanda Vaidya. They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas.
After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention,
during September and October, to the West Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which they
achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They were beaten back by unexpectedly
strong wind and cold temperatures. Under Schneider's direction they completed the first map of the
Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition also made several short films covering
local cultural topics, and made a number of first ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu region. [3]
The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team of Ernst
Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition.[4] On May 12,
1970, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar.[5] Lhotse Middle
remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first
ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of
a Russian expedition.
The Lhotse standard climbing route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to
the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for
Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spurup to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right
further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the
Lhotse main peak is reached.
As of December 2008, 371 climbers have summitted Lhotse and 20 have died.[6]