Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Part I
I was in Europe in October of 2001, to see a number of
cities where the young Nikola Tesla once lived, studied,
worked and divined his future inventions.
GRAZ, Austria, October 10.
Nikola Tesla studied electrical engineering at the Graz Polytechnic School, the Ioanneum, now the Technical University
of Graz, from September 1875 until late 1877. The Ioanneum
was one of only four technical schools in the entire Austrian
Empire others being in Vienna, Prague and Brno which
granted engineering degrees.
The school is very proud of its illustrious alumni, my
hosts, two professional employees of the University, tell me,
and present me with a school memorial book, which features
Teslas picture on its cover, and a 20-page profile inside.
The two ladies take me everywhere throughout the monastery-like school, where Tezla might have attended lectures;
introduce me to a number of staff, including the Professor
who wrote the profile just mentioned; and in one of the technical halls, the schools Tesla Induction Coil is switched on
for my benefit: it erupts in a spectacular shower of high frequency, high voltage, shooting discharges.
But there are no plaques or busts to honour Tesla.
You see, we build statues and plaques only to musicians
and poets, offers one of the ladies. We are not practical that
way.
There is a tradition in Graz, I am told, that Tesla was
dismissed from the school in his last year, because he did not
give any exams, and they hand me a copy of Teslas school
records. See, no exams given in the third year.
Why did Tesla drop out of school in his final year?
Nikola Tesla, the worlds greatest electrical mind in the
age of machinery, never graduated from any school of higher
learning, though after the achievements and the world-wide
acclaim, he received many Honorary Doctorates, including
one from Graz, in 1937, 50 years after the school had dismissed him - it has also been said - for leading an irregular
life.
Teslas life in Graz was a contradictory affair. Mindful of
the leave his father had given him to study electrical engineering, instead of entering the service of the Serbian Orthodox Church, he drove himself to learn, to excel, to surprise,
to please everyone, and
during the whole first year I regularly started
my work at three oclock in the morning and
continued until eleven at night, no Sunday or
holidays excepted.
So he wrote in 1919, in a series of six autobiographical
articles, entitled My Inventions, and published in the Electrical Experimenter monthly magazine in New York.
Tesla skipped no lectures, even on the coldest of morn-
ings.
Brother, where are you going, in this cold, at 24 degrees
Reaumur below frost? his roommate Kosta Kulisic chided
him once.
Must go, replied Tesla. To miss even one lecture here
would be a sin and a waste; the professors are so intelligent.
Three professors had impressed Nikola particularly:
Rogner, who taught Arithmetic and Geometry; Poeschl, who
held the chair of Theoretical and Experimental Physics; and
All, who taught Integral Calculus and differential equations,
a brilliant lecturer, who often stayed with Tesla for an hour
or two in the lecture hall, giving him different mathematical
problems to solve, and to whom Tesla showed his first concepts of flying machines and turbines.
In the 1870s, the polyglot campus teemed with students
from throughout the polyglotic Empire, who, naturally, congregated along national lines. On December 19, 1875, St.
Nicholas Day his name day and Patron Saint day Tesla
founded a Serbian cultural club Srbadija (Serbdom)*.
The group met every Sunday, with each member expected to
hold forth on a historical, cultural, scientific or humorous
topic. Tesla gave at least two dissertations: a serious one, on
the then new subject, Of the surface of liquids, and a mock
one, About Noses. The Srbadija continued to exist for many
years, as on April 10, 1897, it made an announcement that it
had received a gift of 100 florins from Nikola Tesla in New
York.
Nikola Tesla earned the highest possible grade in every
subject he heard that first year. But when he went home to
Gospic, in the summer of 1876, and showed his school report to his father, Reverend Milutin Tesla, a serious and upright man, and no lover of excess, only said, Oh, I know
how you achieved these.
*Its members, in addition to Tesla, were: Jovan Grbicic, Paja
Markovic, Djuro Dimic, Joca Sevic, Milan Nikolajevic and Kulisic
(his roommate from January to June, 1876).
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There is a suite of rooms in one of the wings of the University, which houses old samples of ores, photographs and
other historical memorabilia, and in one room, on a square
table, only a little smaller than the room itself, there is a clay
relief map, hardened and darkened with age, of the AustroHungarian Monarchy: it doesnt even show its Balkans underbelly, the Militargrenzen the Frontier lands with the Ottoman Turks with Teslas birthplace in it.
Nikola Tesla tried to extricate himself from the obligation under his scholarship agreement, and on October 14,
1876, wrote to the Serbian Queen Bee, a patriotic organisation in Novi Sad, applying for financial assistance. With his
letter, he enclosed a transcript of his marks, and an attestation that his father was too poor to support him in school. He
was turned down.
Toward the end of the second year, too, Tesla is said to
have developed a taste for gambling. In 1936, his former
roommate, Kulisic, related the following incident. One day,
a fellow, a member of some German cultural club, turned on
Tesla in the school corridor, struck him lightly with his cane
across the shoulder, and said, Why waste time here; better
go home and warm the chair, so that profs can praise you
even more. Tesla was offended by the gesture, and his susceptibility to criticism and blame, regrettably, got the better
of him, and he responded, True; I am more conscientious
than you, both in studying and attendance. But Ill show you
that I can even carouse better than you. And from that day
onward, according to Kulisic, Tesla began to frequent the
Botanical Gardens, a night time hangout, where students gathered to play cards, domino, chess, and pool, oftentimes staying until closing time. They were all loners games, and with
his mathematical mind and good memory, Tesla quickly excelled at the tables, liked to win, and liked to return his winnings. He suddenly loved the tumult of a larger city, and the
commotion of night life. Games and excessive coffee-drinking and smoking began to take control of his life. He now
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It took two days for the letter to reach Novi Sad; three
days later, his request was turned down again, and his life in
Graz comes to an end.
There is nothing left today of the old Botanical Gardens.
There was construction scaffolding in one of the courtyards of the University, and a cluster of men, repairing the
building, were all speaking in Croatian.
We have lots of foreign workers now Ukrainians and
others, said my hosts.
Austria is a small country today, tucked away in the peaceable centre of Europe, rich but, like all western countries,
suffering from a low birthrate. My hosts worried if twentyfive years from now, there would be enough working people
to sustain the society, and wondered what kind of foreign
nationals Austria should let into the country.
In Austria, we must be careful how we treat minorities,
because of our recent history, says the more senior of my
hostesses.
There were student signs and banners throughout the campus, protesting increased tuition fees.
The student Tesla had roomed at four different locations:
Attemsgasse 8, in his first year; then Hans-Sachs-Gasse 10;
Jahngasse 5; and Heinrichstrasse 11. Two buildings have been
replaced by new ones, but two still stand: stately, bigwindowed, tall-ceilinged. I am shown all four sites, and my
hostesses then invite me to visit the Schlossberg Castle, the
one standing on the hump of a hill in the middle of the city.
We walked down the street, under rows of chestnut trees,
which were just beginning to drop their chestnuts, then went
up the winding road, through the sunless forested hill. The
air was cool, sharp and scented with pine trees and decaying
vegetation. My guides are younger than I am, and I find the
road steep and the forest-heavy air sharp, and by the time we
reach the clearing at the foot of the formidable Castle, I have
had enough of walking. But when I looked down, over the
tree tops, back at the city, the walk was well worth it: below
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us lay a vista of red-tile-roofs, resembling a sea of new copper coins, an infinite variety of windows, and a town a thousand years old.
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Looking at the rest of the page of the Police Protokoll for that
month, the Maribor authorities were exceptionally energetic
in running people out of town.
Later in the morning, I was shown some local sites: the
proposed square; a Tesla statue - the work of the recently
deceased Slovene sculptor, Gabrijel Kolbic - on display inside the Engineering building; a monument to the Slovene
patriots killed in WWII; a 600-year old synagogue, said to be
the second oldest in Europe. (Nearly all the Jews of Maribor
were killed during WW II, so that today, only seven or eight
are left in the city; and 10-15 indigenous Germans).
Here, too, student fees were an issue, and a cause of protest banners.
Maribor is the second largest city in Slovenia - an uncomfortable status, in untypical times I learn, and learn also,
that after the break-up of the Yugoslav federation, large textile, chemical and transportation concerns could not be restructured, and became insolvent industrial graveyards.
And I am told, with a tinge, however slight, of needing to
explain, that a conflict arose between Slovenia and the central government over unrealistic expenditures; that Slovenia
wanted to model itself on smaller countries elsewhere in Europe; and how, when ethno-nationalist wars commenced,
Slovenia scraped through because it did not have many minorities. And hear, incidentally, that Teslas isnt the only name
being proposed for the square in front of the Engineering Faculty.
I listen, and nod, thank everyone, and again, at the end of
the day, leave for the next city, next new state.
There were few passengers on the Maribor-Zagreb bus, travelling mostly short distances. As one passes from Slovenia
into Croatia, the country is less orderly, the towns and villages less well-off, yet, the place is, unmistakably, still central-European. The plumes of smoke rose from the lumps of
rubbish and flameless fires, hung ominously over the coun-
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FREEDOM./ERECTED IN
1956.
Nikola Tesla Street
and memorial plaque
in Zagreb, Croatia
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was showing a fine exhibit about Teslas work and achievements. The display featured the original transmitter of Radio
Zagreb from 1926 - the first to transmit programs in southeast Europe; a Tesla Coil; the Chicago Egg; and replicas of
different transformers, built in the late 1970s, for the Orson
Wells film The Secret of Nikola Tesla. The Director, a young
professional, whom one would almost expect to want to work
in the West, gave me a tour of the entire Museum.
Culture is important to us; with culture, we are trying
somehow to place ourselves in the world.
KARLOVAC
The town, founded in 1678, following a decision made in
Graz, was fog-pressed on this October evening, and the smell
of coal and chimney soot in the air burned my throat, as it did
fifty years ago, when I first came here. In Teslas time, the
town was limited to its 6-prong star shape, so that even its
High school, the Higher Real Gymnasium on Rakovac Street,
was outside the town proper, and in Krajina.
Tesla arrived in Karlovac from Gospic, by train, in September 1870, in company of another 14-year old, who was
travelling even further away to go to school. For the first time
on the train, Tesla stood by the window nearly all day, quietly
singing a couplet from some obscure heroic ballad:
Montengrins are cutting down Turks,
And untying hands of their brothers.
When he spoke, he told his companion that he was thinking about a device which will transmit conversation between
America and Europe without any wires.
The Karlovac High school was the best and, has remained
to this day, the toughest school in Croatia. Its graduates
had never needed to give entrance exams in any of the Universities in the Austrian Empire, or the successor states. Tesla
enrolled in Grade eight; the next year in Grade 10; and then
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about him. He pulled his chair closer to the desk, leaned his
elbows on a pile of papers, and looked at me with a cold
look, and I give up. I was in the Balkans.
Later in the day, when I visited the Director of the Archives, a former fellow student, she had nothing about Tesla,
either. In the Public Library, the Director, a school friend once,
had no interest in Tesla, and grew visibly shaken at the sight
of the Cyrillic script. I visit the city Museum, but here, they
are more interested in who I am, than in what I am looking
for.
I am surprised, but shouldnt be. In my years in Karlovac,
there was never any expressed reference to Tesla, either in
the school or in the city. Not even a poster anywhere. The
main cinema house was called Edison, named for Teslas arch
foe in America. There was a Nikola Tesla Street somewhere
beside an old hydro plant.
But in that old little house on Rakovac Street, in a lowceilinged, sloping-wall room, Nikola, undernourished and
unwell, missing home and the mountains of Smiljan, read
continually - poetry in the first place - Serbian heroic ballads,
Njegos, Pushkin, Goethe, then French novels in German translation, and anything he could find about Michael Faraday.
He was left in Karlovac to shift for himself.
Standing by the dormer window, if he looked to the left,
down the long dirt street, paved only in the 1950s, he would
see the Turkish gate, and the steeples of the Catholic and
Orthodox churches, and straight ahead, and to the right, was
the river Korana, and the plains and the hills beyond - and he
read more. He dreamed of travels and had visions of journeys every night and sometimes during the day, visualizing
new countries and new cities and, gradually, new concepts
and devices. For a while, he sought Milica, the angel-like,
blond-haired girl from Gospic and, not finding her, moved
on to other things. He said the same childhood prayer every
evening, and awoke in the morning to a cold room, a gloomy
day, and whatever other books would come his way, to ab-
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In 1892, when Tesla wanted to go from Zagreb to Belgrade, there was no direct train line between the two cities
either, because the European powers of the day did not allow
it, and he went via Varazdin - parted there with his uncle,
Metropolitan Nikola, who was travelling to Vienna to swear
fealty to the Emperor, before taking up his new duties in
Bosnia - and Budapest. I take a bus, an all-night affair, sitting
amongst the Serb poor, who were either going to visit, or
coming back from visiting displaced relatives. The bus
stopped at the Croatia-Yugoslavia border, and waited for the
bus from Belgrade to arrive, to pick up the bedraggled passengers. The two countries do not yet trust each other with
their buses, train cars, or planes.
A forbidding fog lay over the recently disputed countryside.
The Yugoslav fog, someone said, self-deprecatingly.
The Bus Terminal in Belgrade is beside the very train
station, where Nikola Tesla arrived from Budapest, on June
1, 1892, at 10:30 in the evening, to a tumultuous welcome by
the city, nation, government, academicians, a society of engineers, a new choral society, military music, flowers and
flags. Tesla had been met by the Serb state delegation in Budapest, where he told them, All the glory which I have received in London and Paris, is like nothing; all that is small
compared to your welcome. The cradle of my forefathers,
the Kingdom of Serbia, invites me that is a great reward for
me, and nothing in the world, in my life, will be dearer to me
than this attention. I am happy that I am a Serb, and shall
pride myself with this all my life.
He returned greetings to the welcoming crowd, tried to
speak, but only said, Less enthusiasm, brothers. Less enthusiasm
The next day, he was received by King Alexander
Obrenovic.
At a banquet, prepared in Teslas honour, the leading poet
of the day, Jovo Jovanovic, whose late wife was from
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KRAJINA
No mail, newspaper, TV, radio, or visitors to speak of, for
two weeks. I go for long walks through the hills, beside the
burnt down and vandalized homes, while autumnal mists cling
to the neglected earth. There is only one child of school age
in an area as far as the eye can see; men have no work, and
there is hardly a living soul who doesnt depend on the handouts from the hunitarian agencies and relatives abroad. A
stranger is a dangerous sight here, even if he comes on foot.
I enter my old public school: its doors and windows are broken, the two clay stoves demolished, parquet floors buckling, and on the way out, startle a grouse from its cover near
the schools door.
I visit cemeteries.
The village stream is weed-overgrown and fishless.
Only the farm animals, with their placid, stoic warmth,
can show pleasure in the temporary existence of being.
The country is returning to heath and bush and, eventually, itll be the way it was three or four hundred years ago,
when we came. Only paved roads will remain for a while.
But Nikola Tesla was born here, and grew in this midst, a
continual reminder of the mystery of life and the wonder of
genius.