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CONCEPTSOFKNITGARMENTSMERCHANDISING
M.R.Karthikeyan,
ExpatriateLecturerinTextileEngineering,
KombolchaInstituteofTechnology,
WolloUniversity,Ethiopia
Email:srimrk@yahoo.com

Introduction:
Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the merchandise on
time taking into consideration the 4 Rs of expediting Right Cost, Right Quantity, Right Quality
andRightTime.

FunctionsofMerchandisers:

WhatisTextile?
Textileisaverywidely
usedtermwhich
includes...
WhatisTextileFiber?
Textilefibersarethe
materialsatnaturalor
artificials...
TextileManufacturing

1. ExecutionofSampleorders
2. Costing.
3. Programming.
4. YarnProcurementArrangements.
5. ProductionScheduling(or)RouteCARDDrafting.
6. Accessoriesarrangement(orderplacingfollowups).
7. Approvalofvariousprocessorsssewingoperationsandfinishingprocesses.
8. Patternapproval(or)Dummysizesetapproval.
9. Sizesetapproval.
10. Preproductionsamplefollowups.
11. Pilotruninspection.
12. Inprocessinspection.
13. Productioncontrolling.
14. Identifyingshortagesandmakearrangementsfortheshortages.

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ConceptsofKnitGarmentsMerchandisingTextileLearner
15. Shortagequantityandqualityfollowingqualitycontrolprocedures.
16. Followingqualityassuranceprocedures.
17. Maintainingthejuniorsactivitiesofinhouseandsubcontractorunits.
18. Buyercommunication.
19. Communicationwithproductionunits,processingunitsandotherthirdpartys(vendors).
20. Properreporting.
21. Highlightingtothemanagement.
22. Recordmaintenance(Recordspertainingtomerchandising).
23. Developingsamples.
24. Placementoforders.
25. Takingmeasuresforconsistentproduction.
26. Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Performance level in all areas of

forB.Sc.inTextileEngineering
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CharacteristicsofSilkFabrics|
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merchandising.

27. Attendingmeetingswithsuperiorsandfurnishingtherequireddetailsaboutmerchandising.

TextileCalculation
1.Sampleorderexecution:
Calculatethelengthofa
packageof80/1andcone AfterthereceiptoftheSpecification,pertainingtothesampleorder,themerchandiserhasto
weight2.083lb...
understand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes there may be amendments related
to any of the specifications in the sample order sheet. It is the duty of the merchandiser to
executesampleorderanddispatchontimetheRightquality.

Knitgarment

2.Costing:
Themerchandisersshouldknowthefollowingdetailswhilecosting.
Yarncost.
Processcost(Knitting,Bleaching,andRaisingetc.)
Ratespertainingtovarioussewingoperations.
CMT(CutMakeTrim)Rate.
Ironingcharges,packingchargesandaccessoriesrate.
Overheads.
Shortage(or)wastage3%.
FreeonBoard(FOB)(Transportcharges)2%to3%.
Insurance2%3%,
Buyersagentscommission5%6%,
Quotaratepergarment.
Profit15%20%

3.Programming:
Mostprobablyprogrammingisdonebyproductionmanager.Insomecompaniesitisdonebythe
merchandisers.Thefollowingfactorsshouldbeconsideredinprogramming.
1.Allowances:
Fabricstructure
Dia.fixation(knittingdia.,calendaringdia.andcompactingdia.)

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Processloss(shrinkageetc.)
Sizewisepieceweight
Extraquantityrequired
Sizewiserequirement(dia.,colour(or)combination)

4.RoutecardDrafting(or)ProductionScheduling:
For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the
merchandisers. It facilitates the merchandiser to follow up the orders in planned manner. The
followingdetails(or)aspectsshouldbeconsideredindrafting(or)scheduling.
Design
No.ofsewingoperations
No.ofprocesses
Despatchdate
No.ofComponents
Typeofstitches
Orderquantity
Productioncapacityoftheinhouses(or)subcontractorsunitandprocessingunits.
Prioritizingtheotherfactors
Targeteddatesforvariousprocesses(or)stagesofmerchandising.
Actual finishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and actual
performance any stage (or) Process). Targeted dates for all the stages of merchandising
should be decided. Actual dates on which a particular process (or) operation is actually
doneshouldalsobeenteredinproductionscheduling.Themerchandisersareaccountable
forthedeviation.

5.Accessoriesarrangements:
Merchandiserhastomakearrangementsforthetimelydeliveryoftherequiredaccessoriestothe
concerned units. Accessories requisition slip may be used for requirement purpose. The
merchandiser has to cross check the actual requirements after verifying the details furnished in
accessoriesrequisitionform.Afterthereceiptofaccessoriesqualitycheckwillbedone.

6.Approvals:
Approvalisanauthenticationofallrequiredconformancesrelatedtoaprocess(or)anoperation.
The merchandisers should know the quality parameters of various processes and sewing
operationsbeforeapprovals.Thereshouldnotheronconformities.Evidencesforapprovalshould
becrosscheckedtoconfirmthatalltheapprovalshavingmadeproperly.

7.Approvalofvariousprocessessewingoperationsandfinishing
processes:
Thevariousprocessofsewingoperationsandfinishingprocesssuchaspattermaking,cutting,
sewing,ironingwillbeapprovedbythetechnicalmerchandisers

8.Patternapprovals:
Patternsshouldbeapprovedfor
Measurement
Styleandfit
Allowances
Accuracyofpattern
Ifthereisanynonconformanceinpatternthatshouldbecorrectedbeforeitisusedinproduction
Patternapprovalsampleswillbereceivedfromtheconcernedunitsandapprovedbytheapproval
department (or) merchandisers, If there is nonconformance in any size sample revised sample
forthatsizeshouldbeagainsubmittedforapproval.

9.Sizesetapprovals:
Sizesetapprovalsaremadebytheapprovaldepartmentor)bythemerchandisers.Allthequality
parameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross checked. The
below
mentionedaspectsshouldbeconsidered.
Measurements
Aesthetics

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Processquality
GSM
Pieceshrinkage
Washingfastnessofthepiece
Sewingoperationquality
Print(or)embroideryposition
Labelinginstructions.
Sizesetapprovalseatwillbepreparedintriplicate.
Washingfastnessofgarmentshouldbeverified.
Shrinkageingarmentcanalsobeverified.

10.Preproductionsamples:
Thissamplesshouldhesubmittedontimetotheconcernedperson(Buyers,buyeragentsoffice
buyingoffice).Allthequalityparametershavetobeverified.Incaseofnonconformancesitwill
be
mentioned in the approval sheet by the concerned persons. Sometime we may have to submit
the
revisedsamplesaftertherequiredrectifications.

11.Pilotruninspection:
Pilotrundenotesthefirstproductiongarmentsqualityparametersareverifiedandpreventive
measurescanbetaken.Thefollowupteamshoulddopilotruninspectiontoidentifythevarious
defectsanditwillberectifiedinproduction.

12.Inprocessinspection:
In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any activities related to
execution of an order. We can have procedures for frequency and adequacy. In case of major
nonconformitieswehavetohighlighttheproblemsofqualityattherighttimetotherightperson
without fail. Consistent follow up inspection is a must to confirm that all the required quality
proceduresareadoptedbytheconcernedunitsandpreventiveactionsaretakentoenhancethe
performance.

13.Productioncontrolling:
Controlling should be right from the operative level also. Efforts should be taken to control the
nonconformities during production. Consistent supervision is essential to control the non
conformances.Periodicalqualitycheckshouldbedoneafteranhour.

14.Shortageproblem:
The merchandiser has to identify the shortages of any material that is yarn, fabric, accessories
etc. right at the initial stages. After identifying the shortages steps are to be taken for the
arrangementofrequiredmaterialsontime.Incaseofshortagesalsowehavetofollowthequality
control and quality assurance procedure without fail. Quality of the material should not be
compromised.

15.Followingqualitycontrolprocedures:
Insomecompanieswrittenqualityproceduresareavailableinqualitymanual.Themerchandiser
has to know all the procedures of quality control. In all processes and operations quality
procedures should be followed very strictly. It has to inculcate the importance of procedures to
subordinates,inhouseunits(or)ownunits,andsubcontractors.
Followingqualityassuranceprocedures:
Alltherequiredtestprocedures(asrequiredbythebuyer)shouldbefollowedverystrictlywithout
partiality. Evidences for testing (test reports) tested samples, tested swatches, tested
accessories)shouldbemaintainedproperly.Beforecutting,themerchandiserhastoconfirmthat
theconcernedunithasgotalltherequiredapprovalsproperlyfromtheauthorizedperson.

16.Monitoringthejunioractivities:
The merchandiser has to monitor his subordinates. He has to teach to the subordinates about
thequalityprocedures.Hehastogiveinstructionstothembeforegoingforfactoryvisits.Hehas
to discuss the various activities to be executed on a particular day. The merchandiser has to
controltheactivitiesofthesubordinatessothattheperformanceofthefollowedteamisgood.

17.Monitoringtheactivitiesofinhouseunit(or)subcontractor
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units:
Themerchandiserhastomonitortheactivitiesofinhouseunit(or)subcontractorunits.Hehas
to confirm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance procedures are followed
upproperlybythem(or)not.Hehastoinculcatetheimportanceofadoptingqualityproceduresto
attaintheplannedperformancelevel.

18.Buyercommunication:
Themerchandiserhastogothroughthefaxescomingfrombuyersandhehastosendreplyon
time. Sometimes he has to furnish the production status of a particular order to the concerned
buyerontime.Thebelowmentionedaresomeofthedutiesofbuyercommunication,
Sampleexecution
Amendments
Commentsonthesendsamples
Sampleordersheet
Buyervisit
Productionstatus
Sendingsample,swatches,Accessoriesregardingtheapprovals.

19.Communicationwithothers:
Themerchandiserhastointeractwithinhouseunits,subcontractors,vendorsandjobworkersof
variousprocessing.Throughproperinteractiononlywemakearrangementsforthetimelysupply
of the required materials to the concerned persons. He has to know the production status from
variousunitswhichwillbehelpfulinproperfollowandproperimporting.

20.ProperReporting:
Themerchandiserhastofurnish(or)bestthereporttotherightpersonattherighttime.Hehas
togivereportsforthebelowmentionedactivities
Sampleexecution
Approvals
Testingprocedures
Productionstatus
Programming
Shortagedetails
Inspectiondetailsaridstatus.
Productionstatusformetingetc.
Reportfrominspectionagencies,testinglabs

21.HighLighting:
Themerchandiserhastohighlightthemajorproblemsinmerchandisingattherighttimewithout
fail.Highlightingwillfacilitatethesuperiorstotakethenecessarystepstotackletheproblemson
time.Properdecisionismadeduetotimelyhighlighting.

22.Recordmaintenance:
Themerchandiserhastomaintainqualityrecordspertainingtovariousbuyerorders.Properfiling
should he done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record maintenance. The below
mentionedaresomeexamples.
Sampledetails
SampleInspectionReports
TestingReports
Evidenceofapprovals
Properfiling(Buyerwise,orderwise)
PatternApprovalsheet/sizesetapprovalsheet(copy)
PilotrunInspectionReport
FabricInspectionreport
MidInspectionReport
Inspectionreportfrombuyingoffice,buyingagentsandinspectionagencies.
Testreportsfrominspectionagenciesandlabs
Productionstatusreports
Productionstatusreportsrelatedtomeetings
Prefinalinspectionreports
Finalinspectionreportsetc.

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23.Developingsamples:
Some buyers will give specifications (or) diagram (or) patterns from which you may have to
developsamples.Samplesmaybefabricwithrequiredknitstructure(or)garmentswithrequired
specification.Themerchandiserhastoconsiderallthequalityparametersrelatedtothesamples
tobedeveloped.Incaseofnonconformitiesinthesamplesdeveloped,revisedsamplesmaybe
sendforapprovalpurpose.Itisthedutyofthemerchandisertodispatchthedevelopedsamples
ontotheconcernedbuyersbymeansofconsistentfollowup.

24.Placementsoforders:
PriorityisgiventoApprovedsubcontractorsafterevaluation(whentheproductioncapacityisnot
sufficient)orderisplacedtonewmanufacturersalsoorderscanbeplacedtoinhouseunitsalso.
In some companies, merchandiser is accountable (or) responsible to find out the right
manufacturers after proper evaluation. At the initial stages small quantity order will be placed.
After verifying their performance large quantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by
the concerned unit (or) it may be supplied by the supplier (the main manufacturer). In case of
CMTorderaftertheconfirmationofaveragepieceweightofaparticularsize,processedfabricis
deliveredtotheconcernedunitbythesupplier.

25.Takingmeasuresforconsistentproduction:
Itisthedutyofthemerchandisertomonitorthemerchandisingactivitiesinaccordancewiththe
production scheduling. He is accountable for the execution of each and every process (or) an
operation within the targeted time. He has to take the necessary step for the consistent
productionbytacklingtheproblemsinmerchandising.(e.g.)
Qualityofyarn
Replacinggoodqualityyarn
Consistentarrangementforfabric
Timelyarrangementsforthetimelysupplyofaccessories.
Shortagequantitiesfollowup.

26.Preventiveactions:
Detection of defects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive actions to
eliminatedeviationsinallthestagesofmerchandising.

27.Attendingmeetingswithsuperiors:
Meetings may be conducted for general discussions about order execution (or) for implementing
newsystemslikeISO(or)itmaybeastatusmeeting.Incaseofproductionstatusmeetingthe
productiondetailsaboutvariousbuyersorderwillbecollectedbythemerchandiserfromdifferent
units and will furnished to superiors. The merchandiser is accountable to answer the various
questionsraisedbythesuperiorspertainingtotheexecutionoftheallottedorders.

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