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JANUARY 2015

JENNIFER
ANISTON
Talks About Marriage,
Motherhood, Dogs,
And (Yes!) Hair

HAIR
MAKEOVERS
5 Styles to Try Right Now
+ Cool Cuts With an Edge

Perky
Breasts
No Implants Needed

Skin
Turnaround
Real Womens Before-and-Afters

Demi Lovatos
Do-over
A Whole New Look

January
IN THIS
ISSUE
BEAUTY REPORTER
17
18
20

22

Look Now: Fuchsia Lips


Editors Favorites
Eyeliner Stickers
48-Hour Deodorant
Frizz-Free Curls
Nongreasy Face Oils
Eye-Enhancing
Contacts Free Stuff

FASHION
26
28

Fashion Bulletin.
Tie-Dye
Fashion Cravings.
Bold Stripes
Fashion Extras.
Printed Bags

INSIDERS GUIDE
30

40

42

Expert advice on taking


care of your hair in the
winter and more.
Your Top Breakthrough
Products. Tell us
whats revolutionized
your beauty routine.
Nail Special. Blanking
Out. At the spring
fashion shows, negative
space was the key
to a sophisticated yet
stylish manicure.
BY SOPHIA PANYCH

4 Allure January 2015

82

GRAPHIC DESIGNS
Striped, swirled, scribbled:
Springs standout patterns.

TERRY TSIOLIS

25

January

50

HEADS UP
Mullets, comb-overs,
and bowl cuts have
become stylish. Seriously.

34

Body News. Jet Lag


and Weight HairGrowth Help Red Wine
for Better Teeth.

suddenly become
the ultimate in cool?
BY LIANA SCHAFFNER

56

BY KRISTIN SAINANI

44

Directory. Ones to
Watch. Up-and-coming
hairstylists and colorists.

64

FEATURES
49

50

The Power of
Transformation. The
makeover is an
attainable spin on rags
to riches.
Hair Rebels. How did
the dorkiest styles

6 Allure January 2015

Cooler Heads.
Windblown, tousled,
tumbling, undone: The
braids, ponytails, and
blowouts of 2015.
BY CATHERINE Q. ONEILL
Finding Her Voice.
Child star reinvents
herself? Well, yeah. What
makes Demi Lovato
different is thats just
where her story begins.
BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT

68

On Allure.com
Find complexion game
changersanti-aging eye
creams, powerful antioxidant
serums, and moreat
allure.com/product-finder.

imagination but also


endure? There are clues
in the stories of these
modern masterpieces.

Complexion
Perfection. Hope in
a jar? Please. Skin
care in 2015 is about
visible, quantifiable
results, and we have the
pictures to prove it.
BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL

74

The New Classics.


How does a fragrance
not just ignite the

p. 94

BY NANCY HASS

78

High Definition. After


decades of wanting
bigger, rounder breasts,
women are increasingly
choosing altitude over
amplitude. And modern
science has new breastlift techniques to
give them exactly that.

p. 78
p. 56
p. 50

94

BY JOAN KRON

82

90

Pop Stars. Black and


white and red all over.
The news in prints, from
op art to strong stripes.
Good Nights.
Scientists have issued
a wake-up call: You can
stop worrying about
how many hours you get
and start focusing
on how well you sleep.
BY RAMONA EMERSON

p. 68

p. 64

The Comfort Zone.


Jennifer Aniston speaks
out about her risky
upcoming movie, the
hurtful motherhood
comments, and why she
calls herself a feminist.
BY BROOKE HAUSER

REGULARS
10
12
14
102

Beauty by Numbers
Cover Look
Editors Letter
Private Eye. What gets
you on the dance
floor? BY JEFFREY SLONIM

SEBASTIAN KIM

HEALTH

EDITOR IN CHIEF

LI NDA WELLS
C R E AT I V E D I R ECTO R

PAUL CAVACO
D E S I G N D I R E C TO R

E X E C U T I V E E D I TO R

M A N AG I N G E D I TO R

DEANNA FILIPPO

KRISTIN PERROTTA

FELICE B. KAPLAN

D E P U T Y E D I TO R / F E AT U R E S D I R E C T O R

SARAH VAN BOVEN

D E P U T Y E D I TO R / E D I TO R I A L P R OJ E C T S D I R E C TO R

JILLIAN MACKENZIE

B E AU T Y D I R E C TO R

JENNY BAILLY
E N T E R TA I N M E N T D I R E C TO R

A R T I C L E S E D I TO R

F E AT U R E S E D I TO R

MARNI GOLDEN

ELIZABETH ANGELL

PATRICK ROGERS

B E AU T Y F E AT U R E S E D I TO R

ELIZABETH SIEGEL
B E AU T Y E D I TO R

SOPHIA PANYCH
A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R S

RAMONA EMERSON, LEXI NOVAK

B E AU T Y N E W S E D I TO R

CATHERINE QUINN ONEILL


A S S I S TA N T E D I TO R S

ALEXANDRA OWENS, JENNA ROSENSTEIN

FA SH ION D I R E C TO R

SIOBHAN BONNOUVRIER
AC C E S S O R I E S D I R E C TO R

B O O K I N G S D I R E C TO R

NICOLE CHAPOTEAU

RO PENULIAR

S E N I O R M A R K E T E D I TO R

JENNIFER YEE
FA S H I O N E D I TO R

M A R K E T E D I TO R

JARROD LACKS

TIFFANY REID

A S S O C I AT E AC C E S S O R I E S E D I TO R

MARIKO SUZUKI

A S S O C I AT E P R O D U C E R

BROOKE LUNSKI

FA S H I O N A S S I S TA N T S

CRYSTAL COZART, JENNA ROSE IGNERI


D E P U T Y A R T D I R E C TO R

CHRISTINE DEMETRES
S E N I O R A S S O C I AT E A R T D I R E C TO R

NICOLE ARGENTO
JUNIOR DESIGNERS

SABRINA CONTRATTI, SHAWFAY GUO


A RT AS S I STA N T

ROSIE NABEREZNY
COPY CHIEF

CATHERINE GAMBRELL
C O P Y E D I TO R

AURA DAVIES

P H OTO G R A P H Y D I R E C TO R

NADINE McCARTHY
P H OTO G R A P H Y E D I TO R

HOLLY WATSON
A S S O C I AT E P H OTO E D I TO R

KENNETH YU
P H OTO AS S I STA N T

MATHEA MILLMAN
R E S E A R C H D I R E C TO R

LORI SEGAL
R E S E A R C H E D I TO R

AMBER ANGELLE

A S S O C I AT E R E S E A R C H E D I TO R

SHYEMA AZAM
P R O D U C T I O N D I R E C TO R

HEATHER TUMA NAPOLITANO


P R O D U C T I O N M A N AG E R

VALERIE THOMAS
P R O D U C T I O N A S S I S TA N T

EMMA LOUISE JOSLYN


E X E C U T I V E D I R E C TO R , I N T E G R AT E D B R A N D D E V E LO P M E N T

C. MARIE JONES
D I G I TA L D I R E C TO R

MILES STIVERSON
S E N I O R D I G I TA L E D I TO R

LAUREN CARUSO
WEB PRODUCER

A S S O C I AT E W E B E D I TO R

MONICA PERRY

CATHERINE DEVINE

A S S I S TA N T W E B E D I TO R S

ANNE BAUSO, LINDSAY COLAMEO, STEPHANIE SALTZMAN


P U B L I C R E L AT I O N S D I R E C TO R

MEGAN CAROLAN
E D I TO R I A L B U S I N E S S M A N AG E R

RORNA RICHARDS DINNOO


E D I TO R I A L A S S I S TA N T S

MADDIE ABERMAN, IRMA ELEZOVIC


A S S I S TA N T TO T H E E D I TO R I N C H I E F

KRISTEN NICHOLS
C O N T R I B U T I N G B E AU T Y D I R E C TO R AT L A R G E

PATRICIA ALFONSO TORTOLANI


C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I TO R AT L A R G E

JOAN KRON

SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT

JEFFREY SLONIM

C O N T R I B U T I N G F E AT U R E S E D I TO R

DANIELLE PERGAMENT
C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I TO R S

DAVID DENICOLO, MEIRAV DEVASH, JOLENE EDGAR, BROOKE HAUSER,


BROOKE LE POER TRENCH, FRANCES LITTLE,
JUDITH NEWMAN, LIANA SCHAFFNER, SADIE VAN GELDER
PA R I S E D I TO R

W E S T C OA S T E D I TO R

NOREEN HALL

KELLY ATTERTON

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR

ANNA WINTOUR
8 Allure January 2015

VICE PRESIDENT AND PUBLISHER

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ASS O C I AT E P U B L I S H E RA DV E RT I S I N G

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Published at One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007

Beauty by Numbers
Diana Ross
in the film
Mahogany
(1975)

in royal-purple robes before his crucifixion while


onlookers mock him as the king of the Jews.
14: Length in years of Roman emperor Neros
reign, during which only he could wear purple, and
others who did would be punished by death.
2: Russian empresses named Catherine who wore
the imperial purple velvet cloak for their coronation.
1782: Year George Washington awarded the first
Badge of Military Merit, a heart-shaped piece of
purple cloth. It was later dubbed the Purple Heart.
1856: Year chemistry student William Henry Perkin
created the first synthetic dye, a light purple.
3: Years later the magazine Punch mocked the
resulting fashion craze for purple as Mauve
Measles, a disease that started with a measly rash
of ribbons and covered the body in mauve.
1901: Year Gustav Klimt painted Portrait of Marie
Henneberg, also known as Portrait in Purple,
in which the socialite wears a light-purple dress.
1908: Year purple was first associated with the
womens-suffrage movement. Supporters at a
London rally wore belts and scarves with purple
stripes, which represented dignity.
21: Chapter in Roald Dahls Charlie and the
Chocolate Factory in which Violet Beauregarde
chews a piece of blueberry gum and suddenly turns
a fine rich purple from head to toe.
1960s: Decade that inspired Tom Fords 2007
woody floral fragrance, Purple Patchouli.
1966: Year Jimi Hendrix wrote Purple Haze,
which he said came to him in a dream after he
read a science-fiction novel.
1970s: Decade in which British designer Vivienne
Westwood began wearing purple lipstick. I was a
punk before it got its name, she later said.
17: Approximate number of Andy Warhol films
that featured his muse, artist Ultra Violet. Her
name referred to her purple hair, which she often
matched with purple eye shadow or blush.

The color drove emperors to murder


and artists to paintand inspired
Princes persona. ALEXANDRA OWENS

3: Number of leaders who wore purple ties to the


2011 State of the Union addressPresident Barack
Obama, Vice President Joe Biden, and Speaker
of the House John Boehner. Some political analysts
believed the color, as a mix of red and blue, was
chosen as a symbol of bipartisanship.

10,000: Approximate number of mollusks ancient


Phoenicians needed to produce one gram of Tyrian-purple
dye, which they created with mucus from the invertebrates.

36: Percentage of women who said they would


accept a date from a man in a purple shirt in a 2012
poll about color preferences.

10 to 20: Times its weight in gold that the dye was worth.

78: Age at which Elizabeth Taylor launched her


fragrance Violet Eyes, named after her own eyes.

18 B.C.: Year the Roman poet Horace coined the term purple
prosemeaning flowery languagein The Art of Poetry.
15: Chapter of the Gospel of Mark in which Jesus is dressed
10 Allure January 2015

1: Number of photos of a purple cloud of smoke


that Prince, on Twitter, has labeled #selfie.

STEVE SCHAPIRO/CORBIS

Purple

1983: Year Alice Walkers The Color Purple


won the Pulitzer Prize for fiction. In it,
one character says, I think it pisses God off
if you walk by the color purple in a field
somewhere and dont notice it.

Cover Look

Jennifer Aniston
The scoop from behind the scenes at our shoot.

Soon after Aniston arrived at Milk


Studios in Los Angeles with wet hair,
she and Allure creative director Paul
Cavaco flipped through racks of bodyskimming dresses. A fan of Tomas Maiers
bathing suits, she loved a black dress from
the designer, but they ultimately decided
on a palette of soft beiges for the shoot.

2
3

Posing for the cover, she was a


great collaborator, says Cavaco,
referring to the actresss ability
to look at a promising shot and then
duplicate the expression on her face.
The plan for the day was for Michael
Thompson to also shoot Aniston
with hairstylist Chris McMillan

for the profile, but Thompson surprised


them both by suggesting the portrait be
topless. He wanted them both in jeans;
McMillan swapped his shorts for Cavacos
denim and joined a long list of people,
including Madonna and Farrah Fawcett,
to be photographed in Cavacos pants.

West Coast editor Kelly Atterton


told McMillan that she was
thinking of cutting bangs. He
mentioned it to Aniston, who said, You
have a nice forehead and pretty eyes
why dont you do it now? and hopped
out of the hair chair. Everyone called the
resulting fringe by McMillan a success.

Aniston, with
photographer Michael
Thompson, leans
in for the cover shot.

Hair Lesson
To exaggerate Anistons
natural waves, hairstylist
Chris McMillan combed
a mixture of mousse
and shine serum through
her damp hair. He
straightened just her roots
and scrunched the
bottom half of her hair
with his hands while
he dried it with a diffuser.

Beyond the Cover


Aniston stars in the
upcoming film Cake.

JENNA ROSENSTEIN

12 Allure January 2015

Anistons look can be re-created with the following: Colour Riche Eye
Shadow in Treasured Bronze, True Match Super-Blendable Blush
in Soft Sun, and Colour Riche Le Gloss in Nude Touch by LOral Paris.

Sequined silk dress by Donna


Karan New York. Hair: Chris
McMillan of Chris McMillan, The
Salon. Makeup: Charlotte
Tilbury. Manicure: Tom Bachik.
Set designer: Ali Gallagher.
Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco.
Details, see Shopping Guide.

FROM TOP: YUMI MIKI; DAVID COOK (3)

Makeup Lesson
To play up Anistons golden
look, makeup artist
Charlotte Tilbury swirled
bronzer along the sides
of her face and apricot blush
on her cheeks. She chose
a palette of gold and bronze
shadows for Anistons
eyes and drew brown liner
along her top lashes. She
layered a shimmery bronze
gloss over a berry lipstick.

Letter From the Editor

Whats all this about getting out of your comfort zone? a friend asked at dinner the other
night. Isnt comfort good? Isnt it what were
always trying to find?
These days, though, the buzzwords are
discomfort, disruption, failuretheyre the
magic ingredients of innovation, where right is
wrong and losing is winning. Getting out of your
comfort zone is widely believed to be the key to
success and strength. Sometimes it works, and
sometimes its just wishful thinking.
The idea of disruption can apply to beauty,
too. Take anti-aging treatments. Lasers and retinol function by literally disrupting the skin,
wounding it so that the collagen springs into
action to help it heal. With more collagen, skin
looks plumper and less wrinkled. The same
goes for fitness: Break down the muscle and it
rebuilds and becomes stronger.
In areas of style, disruption is rebellious and
exciting; it quickens the pulse. Just try uttering
the sentence These shoes are so comfortable!
in the presence of a fashion person and watch
the reaction. You will be met with a look of
either disgust or pity. The comfort zone is
sweatpants, a blunt haircut, and pink lip gloss. It
doesnt demand attention or effort.
As much as some of us try, we find ourselves
drawn again and again to whats comfortable.
I almost feel I should apologize for the fact that
Ive never worn a mullet or dyed my hair green.

I have no tattoos, and my only piercings are centered on each earlobe. I dont even venture into
bold lipstick or nail polish. I know; Im sorry.
The problem with comfort is its hard to
resist. The beauty company Urban Decay started as a disrupter, with dark, aggressive nail
polishes and lipsticks named Roach and Acid
Rain and an ad slogan that asked, Does pink
make you puke? But over the years, it was the
companys brown and beige makeup shades
that became the gold mine. Makeup junkies
lose their ever-loving minds whenever a new
Naked palette hits the shelves. By hooking
that neutral palette to a wild spirit, Wende
Zomnir, Urban Decays cofounder, made it
cool. Most people would love to have a little
danger in their lives, and Urban Decay has
that, she said. But we also bring it to everyday life. Zomnir compiled the first Naked palette out of the companys most essential,
best-selling shades, all generally considered
safe. People want to be in their comfort zone
but push the edges a bit. Zomnir pushes the
edges by wearing a basic eye shadow and
adding a vivid color, like purple, on top. She
also surfs big waves and snowboards out of
helicopters, but thats another story.
The more I think about it, the more I believe
that perhaps its not so black-and-white, hard
or soft. And maybe theres a kind of comfort
in disruption, too.

Linda Wells, Editor in Chief


14 Allure January 2015

RAY TAMARRA/GETTY IMAGES

Danger
Zone

BEAUTY
REPORTER
HUMIDITY-PROOF CURLS, POWER MOISTURIZERS, AND WILD NEW EYELINERS

Fuchsia Lips
LOOK NOW

COURTESY OF DEVON WINDSOR

Models are really good at looking seriousand


sometimes even cranky. But the bright fuchsia
lipstick at Carolina Herrera elicited big smiles
and backstage selfies. Because fuchsia has both
cool and warm undertones, its fresh and
flattering on almost every skin tone. SOPHIA PANYCH

ALLURE.COM: CHECK OUT MORE OF THE BEST FUCHSIA LIP SHADES FOR YOUR SKIN TONE AT ALLURE.COM/FUCHSIA.

January 2015 Allure 17

BEAUTYREPORTER

Editors
Favorites

Olay Regenerist Luminous


Overnight Mask.
Smooth on this brightening
gel, with niacinamide
and mulberry root, before
bed and sleep easily
knowing radiant skin is
hours away. $25.99.

Dolce & Gabbana Perfect Mono Cream


Eye Color in Sage, Desert, and Indaco.
Like wardrobe staples, these shadows are
stylish, easy, and flattering. Youll
want to wear them every day. $36 each.

Yves Saint Laurent Volupt Blush in No. 4.


Dont be fooled by the sugary center and
cotton-candy color. This sheer, iridescent
blush looks sexynot too sweet
swept across your cheekbones. $47.

CoverGirl
Full Lash Bloom
Mascara.
For those who
prefer the
What mascara?
look, this formula
produces long,
dark lashes
that stay soft
without crunchy
clumps or lateday flakes. $6.99.

DAVID COOK

& Other Stories Fig Fiction, Punk Bouquet,


Moroccan Tea, and Botanic Whisper.
These scents from the hottest store in Sweden are uncommon
(spearmint and cardamom; orchid and moss), layer
well, and are now sold in the U.S. $40 each (1.7 ounces).

18 Allure January 2015

ALLURE.COM: FIND MORE PRODUCT PORN AT ALLURE.COM/EDITORS-FAVORITES.

BEAUTYREPORTER

Dry Goods

Models love to talk about bringing


in contraband from French
pharmacies. And Karlie Kloss, for
one, has confessed to smuggling
a particular antiperspirant to New
York City. Hey, Karlie, good news:
Dove Dry Spray 48H (as in two days)
antiperspirant is now in U.S.
drugstores. And we understand why
she loves it. The aerosol formula
is moisturizing yet sprays on dry and
doesnt leave white traces on
clothes (couture or otherwise). While
we didnt go 48 hours without
showeringFrancophilia has its limits
we can say it stops sweat for a very
long time. DANIELLE PERGAMENT

The colored stickers


(above) were applied with
tweezers (below) at Dior.

eve seen makeup artist Peter


Philips glue some wacky things to
eyelids (silver sheets, gold leaf,
neoprene). But when we watched
him attach slivers of laser-cut
satin to the models eyelids at the
Dior spring show, it was the first
time we considered running to a craft store. But now we
dont have to go all DIY, because Dior is selling the
limited-edition strips in pastel shades. A few tips on
using them: 1) The strips are technically stickers, but
they wont stay stuck without a little help. Curve them
between your fingers the way you would false lashes, and
dot on three drops of glueone in the middle and one
on each endbefore pressing them to your lash line
with tweezers. 2) You might need to trim them. 3) If you
want to reuse them, curl your lashes but skip mascara
(the satin material smudges easily). Unless, of course,
youre comfortable taking your eyeliner to the dry
cleaner. It is Dior, after all.
CATHERINE Q. ONEILL

THE SCOOP

Weatherproof
Curls

Dior Pastel Eyes


Adhesive Eyeliner Patches,
$61 for four pairs

Tool Kit
For the best effect, youll
need a few supplies:
tweezers, nail scissors, lash
glue, and a curler.

Re-create With Shadow: To duplicate the look without stickers, press on peach, pistachio, or
buttercup eye shadow or liner from the inner to outer corner until you reach the desired intensity.

Obsessive Compulsive
Cosmetics Crme
Colour Concentrate
in Grandma

20

Essence eye-shadow
palette in All
About Candies

Revlon PhotoReady
Kajal Eye Pencil
in Lemon

THE NEWS: Living


Proof Curl Defining Styling
Creampart of the
companys new curl line
helps curls hold their
shape and stay soft and frizzfree for up to three days.
HOW IT WORKS: Almost
all curly-hair problems
stem from one thing: water.
When the hair absorbs
too much on humid days,
its cuticle swells (causing
frizzy, poufy curls), and when it cant
get enough, the cuticle is parched
(dry, strawlike curls). This Living
Proof cream uses a stable algae
extract called Cystoseira compressa
to create a barrier inside the hair that
prevents moisture from escaping. To
keep curls intact, polymers that are
soft and pliableunlike the stiff resins
found in many curly-hair products
form a strong yet flexible scaffolding
around curls, while silicone-free
conditioners keep them smooth.
THE VERDICT: Though this cream
made our blowout take twice as long,
it left our curls impressively shiny,
springy, and more definedand not
the least bit greasy or ramen-crisp.
Plus, it increased our curls staying
power: After we fluffed them with our
hands the next morning, they looked
like theyd just been styleda true
feat. Our curls started to sag only on
day threethe longest theyve ever
lasted without a touch-up. LEXI NOVAK

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

SATIN
EYES

BEAUTYREPORTER

Midnight oil: Nars Skin


Restorative Night
Treatment blends almond
and rice-bran
oils with antioxidants.

Every time we rub on a


facial oil, we make an internal
pact: Deal with the over-the-top shine
now, embrace the skin-quenching benefits
later. Which is exactly why two new solid oils,
Nars Skin Restorative Night Treatment and
BareMinerals Mineralixirs Eye Nourishing Oil Balm,
are so appealing. Both contain blends of hydrating
oils. But the gel-like formulas melt instantlyand not
greasilyon contact, and theyre even more
moisturizing than their dropper-dispensed cousins.
Because most solid formulas are emulsions of oil
and water, they can incorporate water-soluble
moisturizers, which liquid oils cant, explains
cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson. They soften
even superdry skin (and are easy to tap on
rough spots), all while looking like
youre wearing nothing at all.
HANNAH MORRILL

Heres one gift you wont


return. The first 500 readers
to sign up at noon ET each
day win. Go to allure.com/
free-stuff. JENNA ROSENSTEIN

January 5
Redken Wind Blown 05
Dry Finishing Spray
When a dry shampoo
and a hair spray
procreate, you get this
texturizer, perfect
for reviving a blowout.

January 6
Revlon PhotoReady
Prime + Anti Shine Balm
Smooth this clear oilabsorbing balm under
or over makeup
and dare it to let midday
shine pass through.

January 7
Rituals Zensation
Foaming Shower Gel
This rich body wash
is shaving-cream thick,
and it rinses clean,
leaving behind a faint
cherry scent.

January 8
MD Complete Eye
Wrinkle Remover
Its whats inside that
counts. In this case,
peptides, antioxidants,
and fatty acids to
soften lines and
crepiness under eyes.

EYE INTENSITY

uick: Where are your limbal rings? Yeah, we didnt know, either. Turns out
theyre the dark circles around your irises, and the darker they are, the younger and healthier you look, according to a study from the University of California, Irvine. (They naturally fade with age.) Acuvue Define contact lenses,
which just arrived in the United States after ten years in Asia, have shaded
borders that make the limbal rings more pronounced. These lenses use darkness around their edges to make your natural eye color really popwithout
obscuring your sight, says ophthalmologist Marguerite McDonald. Our tester loved the effect:
I got tons of compliments. No one noticed a color change, just that my eyes looked brighter. But
when I wore the contact in one eye and not in the other, the difference was very clear. You dont
have to have vision problems to try them; theyre also available as planos, the industry term for
RAMONA EMERSON
noncorrective contacts. And now youve learned two new things today.

22 Allure January 2015

The model (below) is wearing an Acuvue


Define contact lens on the eye at right;
it adds a dark outline to her iris. The lenses
come in three shades (above).

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DAVID COOK (5); JOHN MANNO (3); GAVIN ONEILL PHOTOGRAPHY

Power Oils

FREE
STUFF

FASHION
Bulletin

Dye Candy
Designers are cleaning up tiedye this season. Whether
its a Gucci fishermans sweater
improbably stained degrees
of blue or a Michael Kors
suede trench coat speckled
a sweet shade of pink, the
new tie-dyes are refreshingly
un-retro. Its a look, not a
lifestyle. SIOBHAN BONNOUVRIER

Gucci merino wool


sweater, $1,200,
and jeans, $850, at select
Gucci stores. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF GUCCI; DAVID COOK (4)

ALEXANDER WANG
leather top, $1,495, at
Alexander Wang,
N.Y.C. (212-977-9683).

MICHAEL KORS
suede trench coat,
$7,995, at select
Michael Kors stores.

FAUSTO PUGLISI
silk skirt, $347, at
Neiman Marcus stores.

ELIZABETH
AND JAMES
leather bag,
$595, at Neiman
Marcus stores.
January 2015 Allure 25

FASHIONCRAVINGS
Louis Vuitton
Resort 2015

LUST
J. MENDEL
silk crepe skirt,
$1,550, at
J. Mendel, N.Y.C.
(212-832-5830).

MUST
ARMANI EXCHANGE
polyester skirt, $78.50
(armaniexchange.com).

LUST
STELLA
MCCARTNEY
rayon polyester
dress, $2,455
(net-a-porter.com).

MUST
JI OH
cotton Lycra pants,
$510, at Barneys New
York, N.Y.C.
(212-826-8900).

LUST

MUST
ALICE + OLIVIA BY
STACEY BENDET
cotton-blend
dress, $398
(aliceandolivia.com).

DEREK LAM
cotton pants,
$1,190, at Derek
Lam, N.Y.C.
(212-966-1616).

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

Band
Width
Big, bold, and almost
aggressivethe new
stripes have a
muscular athleticism.
LUST
VALENTINO GARAVANI
leather bag, $2,295,
at Valentino stores.

LUST
MARNI
silk cotton
top, $1,410,
at Marni stores.

MUST
REBECCA
MINKOFF
leather bag, $245
(866-838-6991).

26

MUST
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
cotton top, $650, at
3.1 Phillip Lim, N.Y.C.
(212-334-1160).

FASHIONEXTRAS
PROENZA
SCHOULER
leather bag, $875, at
Proenza Schouler,
N.Y.C. (212-420-7300).

DIOR
silk twill bag,
$4,400,
at Dior stores.

MARNI
cotton-and-leather
bag, $400
(marni.com).

LOUIS VUITTON
leather bag, $5,400,
at select Louis
Vuitton stores.

These new printed bags look


like canvases painted with
vintage iconographyFrench
silk scarves, flea-market
book covers, and summery
dresses from the 1960s.
28 Allure January 2015

BURBERRY
PRORSUM
leather bag, $2,395
(burberry.com).

DAVID COOK

Portable
Art

`I CANT KEEP A SECRET.

Like 91% of Allure Beauty Enthusiasts, when I nd a beauty


product I love, I tell the worldor at least 11 people.
Are you a beauty influencer too? Join our community and get exclusive offers,
beauty products, and VIP invites.

Join today
AllureBeautyEnthusiasts.com/Jan

InsidersGuide
ADVICE FROM THE EXPERTS ON TAKING CARE OF YOURSELF IN THE NEW YEAR

HOW TO
DEAL WITH
WINTER HAIR

Model Angela Lindvall,


photographed
by Regan Cameron

In winter, you may be


relieved to be frizz-free,
but with less moisture
in the air, your hair
is probably limp and
staticky. Heres how to
bring it back to life.
Hydrate. Dont add heavy
conditioner; itll weigh
down your hair. Instead,
rub a few drops of a dry
oil through the ends
when theyre wet and on
unruly spots after theyre
dry. Dry oils smooth
the hair without giving
you a drowned-rat look.
I love the Dove one.
Treat your clothes.
Coats, scarves, and
sweaters cause flyaways.
Run a dryer sheet over
them or spray on Static
Guard. For extra help,
spray Static Guard on
your brushit makes your
hair smooth and shiny.
Switch your part. If you
put on a hat when your
hair is warm from a
blowout, youll probably
get hat head. Wait until
your hair is cool (or blast it
with the cool setting). Flip
your part and dont pull
the hat all the way down.
When you take off your
hat, flip your hair back to
its usual side. INTERVIEW
BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT

30 Allure January 2015

HAIR: FRANCO GOBBI. MAKEUP: MAKKY P. FASHION EDITOR: SIOBHAN BONNOUVRIER.

An interview with
Matt Fugate, a
hairstylist at the
Sally Hershberger
Downtown salon in
New York City.

INSIDERSGUIDE

Tip
If youre going to a
party and think
youll eat more than
a few bites, decide in
advance that this is
going to be your meal.
If you think of it as
a snack, youre more
likely to go out and
eat a full dinner later.

HOW TO EAT LESS


(WITHOUT GOING ON A DIET)
Strict diets are unsustainable for
most people. When we deprive ourselves of something, we tend to give
in and indulge in even more than
we otherwise would have eaten. But
making small changes to where and
how you eat can help you consume
fewer mindless calories.
Declutter. Our studies show that if
a kitchen is really messydirty dishes, cluttered counters, unopened
mailpeople will eat 44 percent
more snacks than people sitting in
an identical but clean kitchen. And
dont keep cereal on the counter.
People who do weigh an average of 21
pounds more than those who dont.
Rethink your dishes. If youre eating
light-colored food, dont serve it on
a white plate. Pick a darker, high32 Allure January 2015

contrast color so its more apparent


how much youre dishing out. You
should also stick to the theory that
smaller plates encourage you to eat
lessjust dont go too small. Plates
that are tinier than nine inches can
backfire because theyre so undersize
that people think its OK to go back
for seconds and thirds.
Look on the bright side. Even a
slightly negative mood can have a
huge impact on how many calories
you consume. But in one study, we
also found that mentioning one thing
youre happy about before mealtime
can decrease how much you eat by 11
percent. You can discuss something
youre thankful for, talk about the high
point of your day, or say what youre
looking forward to tomorrow.

Dont snack at your desk. We also


found that people who keep candy
in or on their desk weigh about 15.4
pounds more than those who dont.
On average, you only need one quarter of the snack you would typically
eat to feel happy and satisfied, so if
you need an afternoon pick-me-up,
get a small one. Then distract yourself
by making a few calls. After 15 minutes, youll remember eating something but wont recall how much.
Chew it up. Gum can interrupt your
cravings when youre grocery shopping because it reduces your ability
to imagine what a potato chip or ice
cream would taste like. We found that
shoppers who were chewing gum
bought 7 percent less junk food than
those who werent. ALEXANDRA OWENS

JESSICA CRAIG-MARTIN

An interview with Brian Wansink, the director of the Cornell University Food and Brand Lab and
the author of Slim by Design: Mindless Eating Solutions for Everyday Life (William Morrow).

HEALTHNEWS

JET LAG
AND WEIGHT

luctuating sleep
patternsfrom
travel, night work, or
insomniacan lead
to weight gain, a
study explains. When mice
had sleep disturbances,
their digestive bacteria were
also disturbed, causing
an increase in microbes that
are believed to contribute
to impaired metabolism and
obesity in people. The good
news is that these effects are
preventable: Negative changes
in the bacteria happened only
when the mice with disrupted
circadian rhythms were
fed a high-fat, high-sugar diet,
says Robin Michelle Voigt, an
assistant professor of digestive
diseases and nutrition at
Rush University Medical Center
in Chicago. In addition to eating
wisely, exercising regularly
can normalize digestive bacteria
even if your sleep patterns
are erratic, she advises.

Caffeine may help bulk up


thinning hair. When scientists
treated weakened hair follicles
with a caffeine solution, the
speed of hair growth increased
by up to 25 percent, says
Tobias U. Fischer, a dermatologist
at the University of Lbeck in
Germany. Caffeine activates a
growth factor that helps prevent
hair cells from dying or going
into a dormant state, he explains.
Drinking coffee or applying it
to hair wont be helpful, though,
he says. Products with the optimal
formulation (such as Plantur 39
Caffeine Treatment for women)
are available in Europe.
34 Allure January 2015

BODY
By Kristin Sainani

RED WINE FOR BETTER TEETH


Drinking red wine may have an unexpected payoff for your teeth. When researchers dipped bacteria that cause cavities in pinot noir or water for two minutes, the
wine reduced bacterial growth. The effect was a result of not only alcohol but
also the polyphenols in red wine (which arent present in white). Along with having an antibacterial effect, polyphenols may inactivate proteins that help bacteria
form dental plaque, says M. Victoria Moreno-Arribas, a scientist at the Institute of
Food Science Research in Spain. (Pomegranate juice and grape juice derived from
purple Concord grapes contain these healthy compounds, too, though red wine
may have slightly higher concentrations, according to other research.) To prevent
stained teeth, rinse with water after drinking red wine, dental experts suggest.

ALLURE.COM: FOR MORE ON HEALTHY HAIR, SKIN, AND WEIGHT, GO TO ALLURE.COM/HEALTH.

MILES ALDRIDGE/TRUNK ARCHIVE

HAIRGROWTH
HELP

THE CONTENDERS

Check the five products that you consider


2014s top beauty breakthroughs, or vote at
allure.com/breakthroughs.
HAIR:
Dove Pure Care Dry Oil
Nourishing Treatment
Garnier Color Styler Intense
Wash-Out Color
Garnier Fructis De-Constructed
Texture Tease
GHD Eclipse Styler
Living Proof Perfect Hair Day
Shampoo and Conditioner
LOral Paris Advanced
Haircare Volume Filler Fiber
Amplifying Concentrate
LOral Paris Superior
Preference Ombr Touch
LOral Professionnel Liss
Unlimited Shampoo and
Conditioner
Nexxus Color Assure Primer
Pantene Pro-V Weekly Rehab
Crme
Pantene Pro-V Weekly Deep
Cleanse With Mosa Mint Oil
Purifying Shampoo
Redken Blonde Idol CustomTone Conditioners
Redken Cerafill Dense Fx Hair
Diameter Thickening Treatment
Tresemm 7 Day Keratin
Smooth Heat Activated
Treatment

SKIN:

TELL US WHATS REVOLUTIONIZED


YOUR BEAUTY ROUTINE
AND YOU COULD WIN A $4,000 SPA TRIP!

GRAND PRIZE:
A four-day, three-night trip for two to the Riviera
Palm Springs in Palm Springs, California,
worth approximately $4,000. You and a guest will
each be treated to a complimentary massage
or facial, a pedicure, breakfast, two dinners, and
a day at your very own poolside cabana.

FIRST PRIZE:
Twenty winners will each score a GHD Eclipse Styler
flatiron, which goes for $245.

Almay Shadow Softies


by Intense I-Color
BareMinerals BareSkin
Serum Foundation
Benefit Theyre Real
Push-Up Liner
Chanel Rouge Allure Gloss
Clarins Radiance-Plus
Golden Glow Booster
CoverGirl Ultrasmooth Hair
Smoothing Foundation
CoverGirl + Olay
The De-Puffer
Eye Concealer
Dolce & Gabbana Shaping
Eyebrow Pencil
Este Lauder Sculpting
Foundation Brush
Giorgio Armani Maestro
Liquid Summer
Givenchy Blush Mmoire
Gucci Impact Longwear
Eye Pencil
LOral Paris Visible Lift
Blur Foundation
LOral Paris Voluminous
Miss Manga Mascara
Maybelline New York Baby
Skin Instant Pore Eraser
Maybelline New York Color
Sensational Color Elixir
Olay Total Effects 7 in One
Pore Minimizing CC Cream
Revlon ColorStay
ShadowLinks
Yves Saint Laurent
Fusion Ink Foundation

NAILS:
Ciat GelTox
Formula X Press Pods
Julep Pli Wand
OPI Sheer Tints
Sally Hansen Miracle Gel

BODY:
Colgate Optic White
Toothbrush + Whitening Pen
Dove DermaSeries
Rough Patch Treatment
Jergens BB Body Perfecting
Skin Cream
LOral Paris Advanced
Suncare Finish Spray SPF 50
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer
Face & Body Sunscreen
Stick SPF 70
St. Tropez Self Tan Express

Name
Address
City

State

Phone number

Email

ZIP

ENTER BY INTERNET: Submit your ballot at allure.com/breakthroughs by 11:59 P.M. ET on


February 28, 2015.
ENTER BY MAIL: Submit your ballot to Allure Readers Choice Breakthroughs, Attn: Robyn
Hightower, One World Trade Center, 31st Floor, New York, NY 10007, postmarked by
February 28, 2015.

To enter, you must be 18 years or older as of the date of entry. For full rules, see
page 100. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Starts December 16, 2014. You may at
times receive email offers from sponsors and carefully selected third parties.
Please check here
if you wish to receive such offers.

40 Allure January 2015

ROGER CABELLO/TRUNK ARCHIVE

What Are Your


Top Breakthrough
Products?

Bior Self Heating


One Minute Mask
Clinique Smart Custom-Repair
Serum
Clinique Sonic System Purifying
Cleansing Brush
Dior DreamSkin Perfect Skin
Creator
Eau Thermale Avne XeraCalm
A.D. line
Elizabeth Arden Rx Triple
Protection Factor 50+
Garnier Ultra-Lift Transformer
Anti-Age Skin Corrector
Lancme Absolue LExtrait
Ultimate Beautifying Lotion
Living Proof Neotensil Daily
Under-Eye Reshaping Procedure
LOral Paris Age Perfect Cell
Renewal Golden Serum
Olay Regenerist Luminous
Facial Oil
Olay Regenerist Luminous Tone
Perfecting Treatment
Roloxin Lift
SkinCeuticals Physical Eye UV
Defense Sunscreen SPF 50

MAKEUP:

NAIL SPECIAL

BLANKING

OUT
Creatures of Comfort
Torello painted on two shades
of beigy-brown polish
with a small space in between.

Gather your tools. A


basecoat and topcoat;
striping tape (which
you can get at any beautysupply store, or you can cut
regular Scotch tape into
equal-size slivers about
three millimeters wide); and
two shades of opaque nail
polish (Torello used magenta and coral, but any pair
that are cousins in the same
color family works).

42 Allure January 2015

Charlotte Ronson
Miss Pop used mint-green
polish to create
the half-moon design.

Start with a clear basecoatno ridge fillers

or tone correctors
that could turn yellow. Wait
for it to dry fully (about five
minutes) and then apply one
piece of tape to each nail,
just below the middle of
your nail bed.

Paint the area between


the tape and your cuticle with coral polish.

Fill the area above the tape

Prabal Gurung
Jin Soon Choi drew tiny strokes
of orange from the
side to the center of the nail.

Misha Nonoo
Tracylee painted on white polish,
leaving a naked line
down the center of each nail.

with magenta polish. (Your


polish should be opaque
enough that you need only
one coat.) Repeat on the rest
of your nails on that hand.

ish one hand, peel the tape


off, and let the polish dry.
Then you can move on to
your other hand.

Now this is the really


important part: Peel

off the tiny pieces of


tape before the polish is fully dry. If the polish dries on
the tape, youll pull up the
design when you remove it,
says Torello. Its best to fin-

Once all ten fingers are


painted, wait another

five minutes for them


to dry. Finish with a layer of
topcoat to seal the design in
place. I went with a glossy
finish, but you could use a
matte topcoat for more of a
Pop Art effect, says Torello.

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

In art, negative spacethe area that surrounds an object in an imageis integral to a balanced
composition (see: Kara Walker, Matisse). On the manicures at the spring fashion shows, it was the key
to a sophisticated yet stylish effect (see: Prabal Gurung, Charlotte Ronson). People are burned
out on full-on nail art, says manicurist Alicia Torello. This is a cleaner, chicer approach. One of those
crazy-nail-art burnouts is designer Misha Nonoo, who requested white polish with a stripe of naked
nail down the middle for her spring show. Leaving part of the nail blank gave it a three-dimensional
quality, says Nonoo. In other words, what you dont see is what you get. Sophia Panych

TOM SCHIRMACHER

A thin strip of bare nail is


sandwiched between magenta and
coral polish. Makeup colors: Rouge
Coco Shine Lipshine in Dsinvolte
and Nail Colour in Dsirio and
Holiday by Chanel. Manicure: Alicia
Torello. Makeup: Serge Hodonou.
Hair: Gavin Harwin. Model: Julija
Step. Fashion editor: Jarrod Lacks.

January 2015 Allure 43

DIRECTORY
THE NEWEST NAMES IN HAIRCUTS AND COLOR

NEW YORK CITY


Gregory Patterson

The word: Originally known


for blowouts, Patterson
is gaining attention for his
ability to cut any texture
since joining this salon.
The place: Its not on the
most appealing stretch of
Fifth Avenue, the buildings
lobby is a bit shabby,
and the elevator is jumpy
but the salon is clean
and comfortable. It even
has a three-seat bar
where we sipped a decent
chardonnay while we
waited a few minutes for
our appointment.
The experience: We
always ask a new stylist for
a cut that doesnt look
too precise, along with
loose, rough curls. And we
always get short, blunt
ends and overstyled waves.
But Patterson broke
the pattern by giving us the
exact cut we asked for
and then finished it off with
a killer blowout. $150.

ONES TO
WATCH

Up-and-coming hairstylists and colorists from


New York City to Los Angeles. Get
more recommendations for salons and spas
across the country at allure.com/salons.

Hairstylist Gregory Patterson


does a dry cut at Roman K
Salon in New York City.

For the most authentic experience, Directory reporters do not reveal their affiliation with Allure.
STAR RATINGS: Poor

Fair

Good

Great

Practically Perfect

Blew Us Away

DAVID STESNER

Roman K Salon
253 Fifth Ave.,
212-951-1137

DIRECTORY
Travis Speck

The place: Salon or space-

Sally Hershberger
Downtown
425 W. 14th St.,
212-206-8700
The word: We first spotted

ship? This tiny spot is all


chrome and futuristic fluorescent lights. Even the
steam hoods look like they
belong on the flight deck of
the Enterprise.
The experience: Berger examined our dark roots and
explained that lightening
our base (as we requested)
would make matters worse,
requiring too much maintenance. Instead, she painted
on partial lowlights and
highlights, blended them
with a toner, and quickly
trimmed our grown-out
bob. She sent us off brighter,
shinier, and swingier. Cut,
$75; color, $145 and up (our
total bill: $250).

Jacob Schmidt
Serge Normant at
John Frieda Salon
147-149 Grand St.
(new address in 2015:
336 West 23rd St.),
212-879-1000
The word: Previously an as-

sistant to colorist Victoria


Hunter, Schmidt has also
worked alongside the queen
of pastel-pink and aqua
highlights, Aura Friedman.
Now hes taking his own clients at this downtown spot.
T h e p l a c e : Wi t h b r i c k
walls and floor-to-ceiling
mirrorsand well-heeled
fashion-world clientsthis
salon is classic SoHo.
46 Allure January 2015

PHILADELPHIA
Loriann Navin
Salon Vanity
1701 Walnut St.,
215-925-2211
The word: Honey highlights,
Balayage by Abby Haliti at New York Citys Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa

Abby Haliti
Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa
540 Park Ave., New York City, 212-888-8988
The word: Olivia Palermo goes to Haliti to subtly highlight her
brunette hair. Need we say more?
The place: Spanning two floors of the Loews Regency Hotel, the
space is big, light-filled, and truly serene.
The experience: The receptionist forgot us for about 20 minutes
while we waited (and waited), but once she realized her mistake
and apologized, things began to look up. Haliti suggested partial
highlights for our virgin brown hair. She swept on honey ribbons
around our face, then her assistant worked a gloss all over to lighten our base and blend the shades. The blowout cost $50 extra,
but the color had dimension and warmed our skin tone without
looking streaky. $250 and up (our bill: $250).

The experience: Schmidt

was friendly enough, but his


listening skills needed work.
We requested warm golden
highlights (think Gisele) and
instead walked out with platinum hair (think Gwen
Stefani). With no one available to blow-dry our hair, we
didnt even realize the full
extent of the error until we
got home, and then we immediately booked a color

correction at a different salon. $250 and up (our bill:


$300).

BOSTON

purple ombrNavin can deliver every shade on the


hair-color spectrum.
The place: Lots of windows,
flowers, and white walls
this bright salon is a happy
place with a friendly, nonintimidating staff.
The experience: We hoped
to transform our dull brown
hair into something vibrant,
but Navin took one look at
the Pinterest images of red
hair we showed her and
steered us toward some less
intense copper highlights. It
wasnt the dramatic change
wed envisioned, but it was
just the refresher we needed.
$245 and up (our bill: $295).

Chelsea Berger

WASHINGTON, D.C.

Salon Eva Michelle


118 Newbury St.,
617-262-8118
The word: Berger is gaining

Katty McCain

attention in the area for


both her versatile cuts and
her rich, glossy color.

Immortal Beloved
1831 14th St., NW,
202-299-1050
The word: McCain does pret-

ty cutslong layers, shapely


curls, and soft bangs.

ALLURE.COM: WANT TO START THE YEAR WITH A NEW LOOK? CHECK OUT
MORE CUT AND COLOR RECOMMENDATIONS AT ALLURE.COM/SALONS.

DAVID STESNER

Speck backstage at New York


Fashion Week, where hes a
regular who has worked with
A-list stylists.
The place: This Meatpacking
District salon has a concreteand-steel look and a highenergy vibe bordering on
frenetic. Its populated with
some of the best hair stars in
the business who turn out
cool, textured cuts and impeccable color.
The experience: We wanted a
major change from our
shapeless, chest-length hair
but worried that a shorter cut
would look goofy with our
thick, wavy texture. Speck assured us that he could deliver
a style that wouldnt frizz or
pouf into a triangle. After a
very rushed shampoo (the
salon was packed with clients), he took off seven inches, then tackled the bulkiness with thinning shears,
producing the piecey, angled
look we were hoping for,
only approximately a hundred times better. $200.

ONES TO WATCH
The place: The new 55-chair

space has the same rusticchic style as the original


location. Even the claw-foot
bathtub holding an enormous tree made the move.
The experience: We trusted
McCain to enliven our blah
one-length hair in whatever
way she wanted, as long as
she didnt cut it too short.
She snipped two inches from
the ends and added swingy
layers all around. In less than
an hourand for less than
$100we were out the door
with soft layers and a sleek
blowout. $95 (her rate is now
$125).

CHICAGO
Jane Henderson
Lavender Park Salon
2537 Sheffield Ave.,
773-248-8211
The word: Co-owner Hender-

KEVIN CARROLL/IMMORTAL BELOVED

son creates subtle ombrs


and corrects botched color.
The place: A tiny six-seat salon with a West Elm aesthetic.
The experience: Henderson
applied a demipermanent
color with little chatter, giving us a chance to zone out,
especially during the
five-minute shampoo massage. A classic round-brush
b l owo u t s h owc a s e d o u r
glossy auburn shadea few
notches deeper than our
original and free of grays.
The whole appointment was

refreshingly calm and peaceful. $70 and up (our bill:


$85).

DALLAS
Fionna McEvoy
Jell Salon & Lounge
8201 Preston Rd.,
972-685-5882
The word: McEvoy trained at

the Aveda Institute and delivers cuts that make baby-fine


hair look twice as full.
The place: What this salon
lacks in decor (aside from the
peach couches by the entrance, its pretty bare bones)
it makes up for in efficiency,
like a simultaneous manicure
and pedicure while youre
getting your hair done.
The experience: McEvoy
tackled our three hair complaintsuneven layers, spindly ends, and overgrown
bangswith a long, blunt bob
that bulked up our fine ends
and side-swept bangs that
slimmed our face. She even
offered free bang trims anytime. $65.

PHOENIX
Sarah Whitesell
Honeycomb Organic Hair
Studio
2805 N. Seventh Ave.,
602-840-3902
The word: Whitesell recently

moved from New York City to


Phoenix, where shes becoming known for edgy shades

The Immortal Beloved salon in Washington, D.C.

(like pale blonde and rose)


that dont totally ravage hair.
The place: The mantra is organic and sustainable. The
staff is all about pink hair,
dreadlocks, and full-sleeve
tattoos.
The experience: Whitesell
combined a demipermanent
gloss and a deep-conditioning
treatment to blend our wiry
grays into our sandy base color and hydrate our frizzy
hair. And although she tugged
at our scalp too roughly
during the shampoo and styling, our hair ended up
smoother and our color shinier than it had been in
months. $105.

SAN FRANCISCO

inson Salon) but travels to


California every six weeks to
work her magic.
The place: It has the conversation pieceswood sconces
that look like octopus tentacles, framed crocodile skin
and hush of an art gallery.
The experience: Huson complimented our color and suggested just warming up our
ashy base with a sparkling
honey hue. From the moment
we zipped into the salons
parking lot without fighting
for a spot to the free bang
trim we got at the end of the
appointment, we felt like we
were getting the star treatment. $150 and up (our bill:
$150).

Priscilla Gochez

Kadi Lee

Solid Gold Salon


812 Sutter St., 415-440-4653
The word: Gochez pushes

Jonathan & George Salon


9320 Civic Center Dr.,
Beverly Hills, 310-275-2808
The word: Lees balayage tech-

her clients to experiment


with new styles, from Vidal
Sassooninspired geometric
cuts to soft Hollywood waves.
The place: The busy studioapartment-size salon has
only four chairs, but the staff
gracefully navigates through
the cramped quarters, staying cool and relaxed.
The experience: We asked
Gochez for a piecey bob like
Clmence Posys. She cut off
two inches of split ends and
rough-dried our hair before
slicing long, angled pieces
around our face and making
the ends choppy. After teaching us how to define our natural waves with a curling
iron, Gochez delivered the
exact French-girl style we
were after. $65.

nique is attracting a choosy


and famous following.
The place: The salons client
roster is packed with top
actres ses and designers, including Julia Roberts and
Diane von Furstenberg. But
its beachy cottage decor feels
laid-back and homey.
The experience: Lee applied a
beige toner to give us a cool,
even blonde before she painted wheat ribbons throughout
our hair. On our way out, we
paused at every mirror to admire the results: the exact
flaxen hue from our childhood. The blowout ran a steep
$85, but our hair did look the
bounciest it had in a long
time. $250 and up (our bill:
$385).

LOS ANGELES

Reported by: Allure staff, New

Amy Huson

York City; Nicole Boudreau,

Ramirez/Tran Salon
8912 W. Olympic Blvd.,
Beverly Hills, 310-724-8167
The word: Finally, a brunette

Boston; Jolene Hart, Philadelphia;

master in Beverly Hills. Kind


of. Huson is based in New
York City (at the Marie Rob-

Millar, Phoenix; Renee Trilivas,

Annick Banoun, Washington,


D.C.; Kristin Larson, Chicago;
Anuradha Koli, Dallas; Nancy
San Francisco; Katie Devine
and Allure staff, Los Angeles.

ALLURE.COM: GET MORE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR


SALONS AND SPAS AT ALLURE.COM/SALONS.

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

January
2015

The Power of Transformation


It preoccupied our culture long before the word makeover entered the lexicon.
Makeovers have been the subject of fairy tales (Cinderella), movies (from
Now, Voyager to The Hunger Games), and literature great and small (from Austen
to Shaw to Gillian Flynn). Its even become a potent political tool. (If I want to
knock a story off the front page, I just change my hairstyle, Hillary Clinton once
said.) The makeover is an attainable spin on rags to riches: Hidden beauty
is discovered, revealed, and rewarded. Every time we pass the mirror and ask
What if...? we are considering who we areand what we might become.

SUPER BOWLS
Bowl cuts can be like a
third-grade class photo
or shaggy and a little wild.
Left, on Nastya Sten: Top, skirt,
shoes, and belt by Louis Vuitton.
Clean Glow Blusher in Roses by
CoverGirl. Center, on Madison
Headrick: Vest, top, and pants
by Miu Miu. Bombshell Intensity
Liner in Pitch Black Passion by
CoverGirl. Right, on Sten: Dress
and shoes by Marc Jacobs.
Colorlicious Lipstick in Caramel
Kiss by CoverGirl. These pages:
Hair, Shay Ashual; makeup, Lisa
Houghton; manicure, Tatyana
Molot. Prop stylist: Lisa
Gwilliam. Fashion editor:
Siobhan Bonnouvrier. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

HAIR

Mullets on the runways, bowl cuts


on the red carpet, and comb-overs on
stylish girls everywherehow did the
dorkiest styles suddenly become
the ultimate in cool? Let us explain.

REBELS
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SEBASTIAN KIM

By Liana Schaffner

ullets are having a moment. So are


comb-overs, bowl cuts, and bangs so
short that they wouldnt cover a head
of baby lettuce. The phenomenon is so
widespread that it begs the simple question: Did a whole bunch of people lose a bet? The answer is hardly.
These eccentric looks arent just voluntarytheyve been validated,
and by some of the most influential names in fashion and beauty.
Its a complete shift in perception, says hairstylist Guido, the man
behind the new mullet, a style he brought back at the Marc Jacobs
fall 2013 runway show, which was then repeated in that seasons
ad campaign on model Edie Campbell. Were looking past the bad
connotations and seeing the cut for what it actually is: edgy, sexy, a
little boyish, and very flattering.
So how does a hairstyle go from being a failure of taste and
judgment to a symbol of irreverent chic? Proportionally, nothings
changed: The mullet is still long in back and short in front; the
bowl cut has kept its round, dorky symmetry; and the comb-over
is just shy of Trumpian. But these styles have an easier, less oblivious quality, thanks to tousled layers, airier textures, and carefully
considered hair color (be it extreme blonde or hyper-naturalistic
brunette). And while theyve gained some subtlety, theyve also lost
their ironythat campy, so-bad-its-good factor that made them
popular with hipsters and self-parodying types a few years ago. Just
consider Beyonc (the worlds only human to have never experienced an awkward phase) and her fling with micro bangs, a style
she embraced with cool aplomb. I love this hair; it inspires me,
says hairstylist Chris McMillan, whose clients have been requesting
shags and mullets in lieu of beachy waves. You have to own these
looksyou cant just whip them into a ponytail. And that takes guts.

WHAT DO INGENUES (AUDREY HEPBURN), SEX KITTENS (BETTIE


PAGE), AND SOCIAL OUTCASTS (THE GIRL WITH THE
DRAGON TATTOO) ALL HAVE IN COMMON? MICRO BANGS.
THEY ADD MAJOR EDGE TO ANY HAIRCUT. BUT WHATEVER
THE ATTITUDE, THE SHAPE REMAINS THE SAME: A SOFT ARC
THAT FALLS TWO INCHES FROM THE HAIRLINE.

COLOR THEORY
Mousy brown and
dishwater blonde may
sound like the haircolor equivalents of a
cardigan sweater,
but these average shades
have built-in attitude.
Every natural color has
an extreme element
or variation, says Aura
Friedman, a colorist
at Sally Hershberger
Downtown in New York
City. The trend right
now is to bring that out.
Lets call it normcore
hair colorshades so
average-looking theyre
cool. That means playing
up the weathered, ashy
tones in your blonde,
steering away from warm
chestnut in favor of a
cooler, duskier brown,
and converting flecks of
strawberry into a fiery
copper. The result is
an unbuttoned version
of your natural shade.

TAKING SIDES
A traditional comb-over
is carefully placed
to hide something, says
hairstylist Shay Ashual.
The opposite is
true of this version.
Left: Leather jacket by
Emilio Pucci. Right: Pythonand-leather jacket by
Gucci. Makeup colors, on
both: Le Crayon Khl
Eyeliner Pencil in Black
Ebony and Rouge
in Love lipstick in Delicate
Lace by Lancme.
Details, see Shopping Guide.

53

2
4

1. Coco Rochas bob and bangs 2. A


shaggy mullet on Campbell 3. At Dior
Couture, models piecey hair was
combed over their foreheads. 4. Arizona
Muse working a comb-over 5. Rihanna
kills the fashion mullet. 6. Micro bangs
on Beyonc 7. Lena Dunhams platinum
bowl cut 8. Stylist Michela Menis
mini bangs 9. Blogger Linda Tol with a
bowl cut 10. Nasty Gals Sophia Amoruso,
an early adopter of shrunken bangs
9

WILD ONES

AND NOW FOR THE CHECKMATE:


MULLETS, COMB-OVERS,
AND BOWL CUTS IN REAL LIFE
LOOKING REALLY GOOD.
54

10

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

THE HIGH-LOW
The mullet consists of
two distinct parts:
long and short. But you
can ignore that fact.
The point is to make it
appear seamless,
says Ashual. Adding
more length in front
gives the mullet a
tapered quality, which
softens and updates it.
Silk dress by Bottega
Veneta. Earrings by Eshvi.
Necklace by Assad
Mounser. Makeup colors:
Moisture Renew Lipstick
in In Love With Ginger
and Salon Pro nail polish
in Red Award by
Rimmel London. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

Cooler
HEADS
Let it fly as unconfind
As its calm ravisher, the wind,
Who hath left his darling thEast,
To wanton oer that spicy nest....
Do not then wind up that light
In ribands, and oer cloud in night.
Allow us to translate what seventeenth-century
English poet Richard Lovelace was
saying to his lover: Lose the uptight updo, babe.
Windblown, tousled, tumbling, undone:
These are the braids, ponytails, and blowouts
of 2015. Theyre spontaneous,
carefree, and seductiveits freedom hair, says
hairstylist Odile Gilbert. And its
something the Lovelaces of the world cant
wait to run their fingers through.
By Catherine Q. ONeill

56

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

Viscose-blend top and skirt


by Cline. Cuff by Edge
of Ember. Resin ring and
earrings by Eshvi. Makeup
colors: Rouge Double
Intensit Lip Colour in Ever
Red and Nail Colour
in Tentation by Chanel.
Model: Hedvig Palm.
These pages: Hair, Odile
Gilbert; makeup, Dotti;
manicure, Tatyana Molot.
Fashion editor: Siobhan
Bonnouvrier. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

The New
Ponytail
Its actually not a ponytail at all,
but a low, loose knot.

The New Blowout


It requires some dry
shampoo and pins
but no round brush.

58

The New Braid


Its a French braid thats
gone roguepieces fall out
every which way.

This page: Silk dress by


Stella McCartney.
Makeup colors: Color
Tattoo by EyeStudio
24HR Eyeshadow in
Tenacious Teal and Baby
Lips Moisturizing Lip
Balm in Quenched by
Maybelline New York.
Model: Esther Heesch.
Opposite page: Silk
polyester jacket by Louis
Vuitton. Makeup
colors: Electric Pressed
Pigment Palette
eye shadow and Naked
Lipgloss in Nooner
by Urban Decay. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

59

The New
Topknot
The higher, the messier,
the twistier, the
poufier, the better.

60

The New
Headband
Double the headbands,
double the impact.

This page: Cotton-blend


top by Derek Lam.
Headbands by Scnci.
Makeup colors:
Diorshow Khl Stick
in Smoky Blue
(on eyebrows) and
Dior Addict Gloss in
Mylord by Dior.
Opposite page:
Embroidered silk dress
by Giambattista Valli.
Hairpin by Odile Gilbert.
Makeup colors:
ColorStay ShadowLinks
in Candy and Ultra
HD Lipstick in Magnolia
by Revlon. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

STEPS TO A STYLE

The New Ponytail

The New Blowout

The New Braid

It looks like a ponytail, it feels like


a ponytail, but this style is actually
a knot (inspired by skater girls
everywhere). Its a new way of
tying your hair in a ponytail without
using an elastic. Its just two
hairpins, and thats it, says Gilbert.

This hair looks effortless, fresh,


and youthful. Its like a teenager
who brushed her hair before
she washed it, then let it dry into
a natural wave, says Gilbert.
Did we mention you wont need
a round brush?

Take a loose French braid and pry it


apart with your fingersyou
get this messy, gorgeous basket
weave. The key is to braid the
hair up and away from the head,
rather than down and against
it, says Gilbert.

2
3

When hair is dry, mist on a


flexible-hold hair spray
(like LOral Paris Elnett Satin)
followed by a generous dose
of dry shampoo (like Redken
Pillow Proof Blow Dry Extender).
The hair should feel loose
and textured, like the day after
a blowout, says Gilbert.

Gather all of your hair at


the nape of the neck. Divide
it into two sections and loosely
twist them toward each other.

With two U-shaped pins at


the ready, hold the two
twisted sections of hair as if they
were shoelaces and tie them
in a double knot. Push the knot
against your head and secure
it with pinsallowing the loose
ends to fly out. (If you have
shoulder-length or shorter hair,
leave out a large chunk of hair from
the center of the bottom layers
before you twist and knot the two
sections. This will help give the
illusion of a ponytail. Otherwise it
will look like a knotted chignon.)

Loosen some hair around


your face. Give it all one
last shot of hair spray, grab your
longboard, and go.

62

Coat damp hair from roots


to ends with volumizing spray,
like Tigi Bed Head Superstar
Queen for a Day Thickening Spray,
then flip your head upside
down and rough-dry your hair
(just tousle with your fingers
no brush).

Once your hair is nearly dry,


twist small, two-inch sections
loosely like a rope. Using two
fingers as a guide, roll each section
down to your scalp and clip it
in place. Repeat until all your hair
is pinned like a roller set, and
mist everything with hair spray.

Once your hair is totally dry,


unravel the sections, shake out
your hair with your fingers, and
go to town with dry shampoo,
tousling it through the top
and bottom layers until your hair
takes on an airy texture.

Rub a dime-size dab of styling


cream, like Krastase Touche
Perfection Replenishing Balm,
through the ends to give them a
slightly more polished finish.
Then tuck a small section of hair
on one side behind your ear.

Saturate your dry roots with


volumizing spray and give yourself
a nice head massage as you blow-dry
the volumizing spray into your hair,
lifting and scrunching it off your head
to create height.
Mist the hair with dry shampoo
and gather it slightly off
center at the back of the head.
Heres where things get
interesting. Grab a chunk of hair
from underneath the right side, a
chunk of hair from underneath the left
side, and a chunk of hair from the top
center. You should now be holding
three sections that are ready to braid,
with plenty of loose hair below.

Begin the braid, crossing the left


section over the center and the
right section over that. As you start
your second rotation, add a bit of
hair from underneath, French-braid
style, and cross it over. Repeat this until
youve picked up all the loose hair
and have a beautiful, challah-like weave.
Knot the ends or secure them with a
thin, clear elastic.

Pull the braid apart from the


center until its big and loose, with
some pieces falling out. Finish
with light-hold hair spray and swing
it over one shoulder.

UPGRADE

The New Topknot


This fuzzy updo somehow manages
to be kooky and sophisticated
(and easy!) at the same time. Its
like a little nestand it gives
nice, flattering height, says Gilbert.

Mist your top and bottom


layers with hair spray, brush
all your hair taut to the very top
of your head, and put it in a
supertight ponytail.

Tease the living daylights out


of the ponytail with a brush
from the roots to the ends until it
has the texture of cotton candy.

Delicately squash all that


frothy hair down to the base of
the ponytail and secure it with a
few U-shaped pins (bobby pins will
make it look too controlled). Twist
and pull at the nest until it forms
a nice round shape, add a couple
more pins if necessary, and finish
with a decorative hairpin through
the center. Gilbert used her
own creation, an Odile Hair Pin With
Pearl (odilegilbertcreations.com).

Massage your temples and all


around your hairline with your
fingers to free some fine baby hairs
and soften the look. Finish with
you guessed ita light coating of a
light-hold hair spray.

The New
Headband
A thin black headbandor
twoadds shape and contrast to
a softer fabric underneath (and
prevents anyone from assuming
you just left a Spinning class).

Position a one-inch headband


of any color (you get a gold star
if it matches your outfit) a half-inch
back from your hairline. Add two
thinner, black headbands (Scnci
makes them) directly on top of it.
Dont worry if theyre not perfectly
straight; it looks cooler if theyre
not. Black brings out the color of
the other headbandits always
a good choice, says Gilbert.

Back-comb the hair directly


behind the headbands with
a teasing comb for a bit of volume,
then lightly brush all the hair to
the center of the back of the head,
making sure that the outermost
layer of hair is smooth. Secure
all the hair in a ponytail with an
elastic. On your last rotation of
the elastic, pull the tail only
halfway through to form a loop.

THESE STYLES
ARE SPONTANEOUS,
CAREFREE, AND
SEDUCTIVE
ITS FREEDOM HAIR,
SAYS GILBERT.

Tuck the loose ends of the


loop through the black
headband at the nape of your neck.
This makes the hair follow
the line of the neck, so it looks
elegant, says Gilbert.

63

Silk dress by Vivienne


Westwood. Beaded
leather boots by Sophia
Webster. Gloves
by Schiaparelli Haute
Couture. Makeup
colors: IndividualEyes
Custom Compact
in Union Square and
City Proof Intense
Lip Color in Riverside
Rose by NYC New
York Color. These pages:
Hair, Teddy Charles;
makeup, Hung Vanngo;
manicure, Sheril
Bailey. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

FINDING
HER VOICE
Child star reinvents herself?
Well, yeah. What makes Demi
Lovato different is thats
just where her story begins.
By Danielle Pergament

64

PVC-and-silk dress by
Emporio Armani.
Ear cuff by Alexis Bittar.
Makeup colors:
IndividualEyes Custom
Compact in Best
of Broadway and City
Proof Intense Lip
Color in Gramercy Park
Plum by NYC New
York Color. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

he was a human emoji before anyone knew what


an emoji was. At age 15, Demi Lovato was a professionally adorable creature marketed by the Disney
machine, all visible wholesomeness and gollygee-ness. Her first job was at age 8 on Barney &
Friends. She wound up dating a Jonas brother who
was her costar in a Disney TV musical. But right
from the start, Lovato was different from the rest
of the tween stars to come out of that 2000s boom.
Take any of those highly trained Disney graduates who flit from acting to singing to fill-in-theblankseemingly searching for the shortest route
to fame. Their high priestess may be Miley Cyrus,
who adds a level of outrageous behavior that
almost overshadows her impressive voice. Lovato,
however, is singularly focused. She has the kind
of pure, muscular voice that fills a room. She
has been compared to Pat Benatar and Christina
Aguileraand not just for her skill and range.
When Lovato opens her mouth, there is undeniable power. Its a voice that has something to say.
Now consider that her first album came out
when she was 16, when she had no life experiences to go with the gravitas of her voice. But the life
experiences found her. Lovato struggled with bullying, drugs, bulimiathose particular kinds of
troubles that seem to find young, famous people.
In 2011, she cleaned up and spoke candidly
about her problems, and now she has more than
25 million Twitter followers rooting for her. I
acknowledge the past, she says. Yes, it happened,
but Ive told this story a million and one times. Its
time for a new chapter in my life.
The new chapter opens with a solo tour (for
her most recent album, Demi). Her voice is nearly
shot when we meet the day after she performed for
66

thousands of Lovatics at the Barclays Center in


Brooklyn. In a few weeks, she will be off to Istanbul
to kick off the European leg. Her new beginning
also includes a role as a spokeswoman for NYC
New York Color and a collection of skin-care products. I wanted to create my dream products, she
says of the line, Devonne by Demi (Devonne is
her middle name). Although she says her sobriety
has improved her appearanceYour skin does
not look good when youre using drugs, she says,
arching an eyebrowLovato hardly skimped on
her skin care at the worst of times. I always had
a pretty strict skin-care regimen. I cant go to bed
without taking off my makeup, she says.
All evidence points to her new ability to navigate the child-star-to-adult transition. Im getting
more confidence in my body, says the woman who
brought SoulCycle bikes on tour with her. As Ive
gotten older, Im fine showing my cleavage. And
tight-fitting stuff is fine, but short shorts, short
skirts, short dressesnobodys ever comfortable
in that. If you are, then you probably live on a
beach, and all you wear is a bikini.
After her lips have been painted plum, her
skin burnished with bronzers, her hair sprayed
and teased to defy gravity, Lovato is thrilled. Of
the looks she tried for this shoot, she says, I just
loved themthey were fitting for a woman who
has struggled and grown up.
For now, Lovato isnt taking anything for
granted. Staying healthy is still new and fragile
for her. I didnt know how I was going to celebrate turning 21, she says. I went to Africa to get
away from Hollywood. It was incredible. It meant
so much to me that I got this tattoo on my arm.
She pulls up her sleeve to show me the faint outline of the continent needled on her right forearm. It was life-changing. She smiles faintly and
rests her cheek in her hand. Lovato needs a nap.
And Europe is waiting.

IVE TOLD THIS STORY A


MILLION AND ONE TIMES.
ITS TIME FOR A NEW
CHAPTER IN MY LIFE.

SHOW AND TELL


2008

2008

2009

2010

At the Chevy Rocks the


Future event in Burbank,
California This was my
very first red carpet ever.
I was so nervous. I had a
stylist choose my outfit.
When I look back, Im like,
Well, I wish I had stood
up for myself more. Not
that anyone pressured
me; I just didnt know,
and I was so wide-eyed.
At a Padres Contra
el Cncer
event in Hollywood
This was the
[struggles to
pronounce it properly]
Padres Contra el
Cncers twenty-fifthanniversary gala.
You could make it
sound like I knew how
to pronounce that.
Like, Shes so good at
speaking Spanish!
I loved the color of
the dress, and it really
showcased my
butt. I love my butt.
The trick is squats
with weights. When
Im on tour, I work
out twice a day. I
brought SoulCycle
bikes on the road.
And then Id do the
concert, and thats like
a full workout, too.

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

2012

At the American Music


Awards in Los Angeles
I loved this look. I felt
really dainty and pretty
in it. When you go to an
awards show, there are
always cameras when
you get out of the car.
You cant do anything
about the wrinkles.

2010

At the Teen
Choice
Awards in
Universal City,
California
I felt very
powerful in
this outfit.
Thats not
my hair,
obviously.
The ponytail
holder was
actually this
long [holds
her hands
about eight
inches apart],
because we
had to hide,
like, ten
pounds of blue
hair extensions
in the ponytail
holder.

At the Nickelodeon Kids


Choice Awards in
Westwood, California
I loved it. I felt like a
gold-bronze princess.

2011

2011

At the NCLR
ALMA Awards in
Santa Monica
I felt very
beautiful, very
Latina in this
one. This was
also a good,
curvy, tightfitting dress
that I felt like
a woman in.
And the makeup
was on point.

At the Latin
Grammys
in Las Vegas
The stylist
I had at the time
actually didnt
know which
way the dress
went. Turns out
I was wearing
it backward! It
was kind of funny.
The backward
dress: fail. I liked
the deep plunge
because Id never
done anything
like that before.
I had so many
extensions. They
looked like two
long pigtails.

At the iHeartRadio Music


Festival in Las Vegas
I had really dark, thick
brows. If I were a little
bit tanner, and if my
brows werent so crazy,
I would have liked it
better. And I didnt love
the bangs with it.
2012

At the
Vanity Fair
Oscar party
in West
Hollywood
This was
probably
one of my
favorite redcarpet looks.
I love gold,
and I miss
having long,
dark hair.

2013

2014

At a
Television
Critics
Association
event in
West
Hollywood
I love
leather
pants and
blazers.
Thats kind
of like my
go-to look.
At a 104.3 MYFM
event in Hollywood
I had my nails
match my hair. It
was, like, brown
going into purple
going into silver.
I was actually
wearing my own
clothes. I didnt
have a stylistI
had my suitcase.

Complexion
Perfection

Hope in a jar? Please. Skin care in the year 2015 is about visible,
quantifiable results, and we have the pictures to prove it. By Elizabeth Siegel

e love to quantify every step


of our lives. We want to know
the number of steps weve taken since we got out of bed,
the precise number of friends
who like our new Alexander
Wang booties, and the minutes
remaining until our Uber pulls up. Weve come to expect
instant progress reports from a single tap. (And thats all
before we even get to the office.) Our skin-care routine,
however, still leaves us craving feedback. We approach
new products with high hopes and even higher expectations, but how can we be sure theyre delivering?
The variety and efficacy of skin-care ingredients has
grown exponentially in the last five yearsand so have
our expectations for visible results, says Anne Chapas,
a dermatologist in New York City. What hasnt evolved is
our ability to assess those results at home with a method
more effective than peering into a magnifying mirror.
And then, of course, even potent ingredients arent guaranteed home runs. Changing your skin is about finding
the right combination of products, rather than one miracle cream, and the ideal mix isnt always obvious, says
Francesca Fusco, a dermatologist in New York City.
The case studies on these pages may change all this.
Each one put a doctor-designed routine for a common
skin concern to the test over 12 weeksand we mean really put it to the test. We used skin-imaging technology from
Canfield Imaging Systems to capture and quantify what
our eyes cant see. A high-resolution camera uses special
lenses and filters to assess changes in wrinkle and pore
size and UV damage both above and below the skins surface. But thats not even the coolest part: The same imaging technology is now available on the new SkinBetter app
(and also at allure.skinbetter.com). With a quick selfie,
you can know for sure whether your skin is improving
with your latest routine or whether that new face cream is
worth the hype. Lets run the numbers, shall we?
68

PHOTOGRAPHED BY REGAN CAMERON

Model Masha Gutic holds


an iPad with the SkinBetter
app, which assesses skin
and gives personalized
product recommendations.
Linen jacket and skirt by
Nina Ricci. Watch by Cartier.
Leather bag by Prada.
Makeup colors: Longwear
Crme Eye Pencil in
Noir and Rouge Nouveau
Weightless Lip Colour in
Coy by Laura Mercier. Hair:
Diego Da Silva. Makeup:
Francelle Daly. Manicure:
Sheril Bailey. Prop stylist:
Lisa Gwilliam. Fashion
editor: Jarrod Lacks. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

69

Fine Lines
Kerith Knechtel, 34 First, some good news: Fine lines, like the ones around Knechtels eyes, are
superficial enough to minimize at home, says Chapas. But the creases on her forehead are caused
by muscles deep under the skin, and theyre more difficult to correct with skin care alone.
What the dermatologist says: The best anti-aging ingredients work even better if you combine them. I advised
Kerith to apply a moisturizing hyaluronic acid serum under
two formulas that smooth lines by building collagen: Eau
Thermale Avne Rtrinal H.A.F. Firming Gel with retinol and
Neocutis Journe SPF 30 with growth factors, says Chapas.
Overnight, she put gentle retinol formulas from RoC on her
face and eyesmore-potent formulas could have exacerbated
her dry skinand another cream with growth factors from
Neocutis. Chapas also recommended that Knechtel use a
Masque Bar hydrating sheet mask at least twice a week to

improve the dryness that was making her lines more noticeable. After three months, I could see an improvement in the
fine lines around Keriths eyes, says Chapas. But the deep
wrinkles on her forehead didnt changethats in keeping
with what over-the-counter skin care can realistically do.
What the patient says: I used to only use moisturizer, so
I thought Id never remember everything, says Knechtel.
But now I love the SkinCeuticals serum and the Masque Bar
maskboth make my skin so glow-y. My skin looks much
fresher now, the lines around my eyes and lips are softer, and
my skin is brighter and more even overall.

THE DOCTORS PLAN


Morning

Night
Before Better sunscreen use would have helped
prevent fine lines, but the forehead creases were
caused by strong facial muscles, says Chapas.

After Knechtels lines are less noticeable, and


theyll continue to diminish if she continues to use
sunscreen and retinol daily.

Gentle cleanser: Neutrogena


Ultra Gentle Daily Cleanser
Retinol eye cream: RoC Retinol
Correxion Sensitive Eye Cream
Retinol face cream: RoC Retinol
Correxion Sensitive Night Cream
Moisturizer with growth factors:
Neocutis Bio-Cream Riche

Two times a week


Sheet mask with vitamin E:
Masque Bar by Look Beauty
Wrinkle Reducing Sheet Mask

Before The shallow wrinkles are in light green,


and the deeper ones are dark green, says Chapas.

70

After The length, depth, and number of lines


around her eyes improved by 45 percent.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DON ALLEN STUDIOS (2); JOHN MANNO 8); DAVID COOK; CANFIELD IMAGING SYSTEMS (2)

Gentle cleanser: Neutrogena


Ultra Gentle Daily Cleanser
Hyaluronic acid serum:
SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel
Retinol serum: Eau Thermale
Avne Rtrinal H.A.F. Firming Gel
Moisturizer with sunscreen
and growth factors:
Neocutis Journe SPF 30

Hyperpigmentation
Anna Pacewicz, 39 If youve ever pretended sun spots were freckles, Pacewicz can relate: But
mine kept getting darker and darker, until I realized they were officially age spots, she
says. Then I had a baby, and during my pregnancy, I got a dark patch on my forehead, too.
What the dermatologist says: Melasmadark patches
caused by hormonal changes, like pregnancyis one of the
most difficult skin issues to treat at home, says Fusco, who
built this routine around the three types of products that
work best on deep pigmentation: exfoliators, brightening
serums, and sunscreen. When you exfoliate with a glycolic acid night cream and a weekly alpha and beta hydroxy
acid peel, brightening ingredients penetrate better. I chose
SkinMedicas Lytera serum for Anna because its blend of vitamin C and retinol is reliably effective. And since UV exposure makes spots worse and treatments pointless, sunscreen

is a must. Supergoop is so light, its easy to wear every day,


says Fusco. And Pacewicz did, religiously. The proof? Both
Annas melasma and sun spots faded significantly after three
months, and theyll continue to diminish if she sticks with the
program, says Fusco. The redness on her nose and cheeks,
which often accompanies brown spots because its also caused
by sun damage, went away completely.
What the patient says: I sat down with the list of products and thought, God, this is a lot, says Pacewicz. But she
warmed to the routine as her spots started to fade and her
skin became smoother and more radiant.

THE DOCTORS PLAN


Morning

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DON ALLEN STUDIOS (2); JOHN MANNO (9); CANFIELD IMAGING SYSTEMS (2)

Exfoliating cleanser:
Vichy Normaderm Triple Action
3 in 1 Cleanser
Retinol and vitamin C serum:
SkinMedica Lytera Skin
Brightening Complex
Eye cream with caffeine: Vichy
ProEven Eyes Daily Eye Corrector
for Dark Circles and Spots
Sunscreen: Supergoop Everyday
Sunscreen With CRT SPF 50

Before Using harsh cleansers and skipping


sunscreen likely made Pacewiczs brown spots and
redness worse, says Fusco.

After A gentler routine and proven brighteners


noticeably lightened spots, says Fusco. When
she ditched harsh scrubs, her redness cleared up.

Night
Gentle exfoliator: First Aid
Beauty Facial Radiance Polish
Retinol and vitamin C serum:
SkinMedica Lytera Skin
Brightening Complex
Eye cream with caffeine: Vichy
ProEven Eyes Daily Eye Corrector
for Dark Circles and Spots
Glycolic acid cream: Caudalie
Vinoperfect Cell Renewal
Night Cream

Once a week
Alpha and beta hydroxy acid
peel: Dr. Dennis Gross
Skincare Alpha Beta Peel
Before Her melasma is the dark-brown cluster
above her eyebrow; her sun spots are the pinpoints
across her nose and cheeks, says Fusco.

After Her surface spots are 6 percent less


concentrated. The pigment under her skin
decreased by 19 percent.

71

Dullness
Scarlett Kim, 34 After a late night, most peoples skin looks dull and dry. But for Kim, thats how
mine has started to look all year round. I want the dewy look I always see in magazines.
What the dermatologist says: The

tried-and-true formula for glowing


skin is exfoliating and moisturizing
and Kims regimen was supercharged
on both counts. She used Philosophys
peel twice a week to lift away dead skin
and then put on a really rich hydrating
mask from First Aid Beauty immediately afterward, says Fusco. And
each morning, she wore not one but
two moisturizers (a Vichy serum and
a Patricia Wexler M.D. moisturizer).

The cream traps the serum against


the skin for better penetration and
a dewier finish, says Fusco. Before
bed, Kim applied either a serum with
skin-brightening botanicals (Jurlique
Purely Bright Radiance Serum) or a
retinol cream (SkinMedica Retinol
Complex .25). Retinol clears pores and
builds collagenand smoother, firmer
skin looks more luminous. But retinol
can also be irritating if you overdo it, so
she alternated it with Jurliques serum,

says Fusco. At the end of three months,


Scarletts complexion looked much
healthier and more radiant.
What the patient says: Ive tried to
fake glowing skin with tinted moisturizer for years. Now I can go bare-faced
and have the same effect, says Kim,
whose favorite products were the Vichy
serum and the Wexler moisturizer.
They made my skin as smooth and soft
as a babys butt, and using them together gave me the instant glow I wanted.

THE DOCTORS PLAN


Morning

Night

Before Dry spots, redness, and clogged pores


made her skin dull, says Fusco.

After Her skin was smoother and more elastic


and both are keys to radiance, says Fusco.

Moisturizing cleanser: Dove


DermaSeries Cream Face Cleanser
Retinol serum: SkinMedica Retinol
Complex .25
Antioxidant serum: Jurlique Purely
Bright Radiance Serum

Two times a week


(used in succession):
Alpha hydroxy acid peel:
Philosophy The Microdelivery
Triple-Acid Brightening Peel
Moisturizing mask: First Aid Beauty
Facial Radiance Overnight Mask

Before Her skin didnt reflect much light because


its surface was rough, says Fusco. The blue
dots represent the main culprit: clogged pores.

72

After The number of clogged pores went


down 31 percent. It was the biggest change
to her skin texture, says Fusco.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DON ALLEN STUDIOS (2); JOHN MANNO (8); CANFIELD IMAGING SYSTEMS (2)

Facial cleansing wipes: Ponds Luminous


Clean Wet Cleansing Towelettes
Hydrating serum: Vichy Idalia
Life Serum
Moisturizer with sunscreen: Patricia
Wexler M.D. Skin Brightening Daily
Moisturizer SPF 28

Acne
Shana Gotlieb, 31 You dont need a prescription to get smoother, softer, more even skin. You do
need one, however, to put a stop to the hormonal acne that often plagues women in their 20s and
30s (and sometimes well beyond). Unfortunately, breakouts driven by hormone changes are
rarely fixed by over-the-counter salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide acne products alone, says New
York City dermatologist Jennifer MacGregor, who created this regimen of both prescription and
over-the-counter products to treat Gotliebs hormonal breakouts.

THE DOCTORS PLAN


Morning
Salicylic acid cleanser:
SkinCeuticals LHA Cleansing Gel
Prescription antibacterial gel:
Aczone Gel 5%
Sunscreen: EltaMD Skincare UV
Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: DON ALLEN STUDIOS (2); JOHN MANNO (4); DAVID COOK; JOHN MANNO (2)

Night
Before Breakouts on the chin and jaw are typical
of hormonal acne, says MacGregor.

After Gotliebs skin cleared up significantly; she still


gets the occasional breakout on her chin and jaw.

What the dermatologist says: Shana

tle evening face wash and a moisturizer


with petrolatum prevented those common side effects, says MacGregor.
What the patient says: I was just hoping that the routine would make my
pimples smaller and less painful, but
the acne on my forehead and nose has
completely cleared up, says Gotlieb. I
still break out on my chin around my
period, but the pimples arent as red or
inflamed, and there are fewer and fewer of them.

had painful hormonal acne on her chin


and jaw, plus acne vulgariscaused by
clogged poreson her T-zone, says
MacGregor. The prescription gel Aczone
contains an ingredient called dapsone
that treats both kinds of breakouts.
Layering it with a prescription retinoid
at night decreases oil production and
cleans out pores. The duo cleared up
Gotliebs skin in just two months, without any dryness or irritation. The gen-

Hydrating cleanser:
Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
Prescription antibacterial gel:
Aczone Gel 5%
Prescription retinoid:
Tretinoin 0.025%
Basic moisturizer: Theraplex
HydroLotion Daily Skin Moisturizer

SKIN TRACKER
Allure teamed up with SkinBetter, a new website and free app that employs the
same Canfield Imaging Systems skin-imaging technology that doctors use. But the
app takes the science one step further, giving specific product recommendations
based on the imaging and an algorithm. Every product we suggest was vetted
by top dermatologists and plastic surgeons, says former pharmaceutical executive
Jonah Shacknai, who created SkinBetter. We only wanted to include the skin
care they tell their patients to use. If you take a new picture every few weeks, you
can chart your progress and see whether your regimen is making any difference
and exactly how much. One caveat: SkinBetter currently cant assess acne, but as
the cameras on phones improve, that may change.
73

Iconic scents like Angel,


Coco Mademoiselle,
and Flowerbomb
are more than popular
theyre revolutionary.

THE
NEW

How does a new fragrance not just


ignite the imagination but
also endure? All perfumers strive to
unravel this mystery, but there
are ample clues in the stories of these
modern masterpieces. By Nancy Hass

CLASSICS

PHOTOGRAPHED BY HORACIO SALINAS

75

OK, now try this game yourself: Name


the new generation of classics, the
modern icons of fragrance created in
the last 25 or so years. Not so simple,
right? Back in the days when Coco
Chanel and Jacques Guerlain ruled,
there were only a handful of new
scents a year. Now we are spoiled for
choice, with more than 600 launches
in 2013, ever more independent luxury brands, and ubiquitous celebrity fragrances (J.Lo alone has 23).
There are clones of clones of clones,
oceans of fruitiness, rivers of rose
petals, seas of oud.
This is a harder time for everyone
to agree about what is historic, says
Kilian Hennessy, the French impresario and cognac heir behind the niche
brand By Kilian. Is it because you
have a huge company supporting you
brilliantly or because you are truly
original and groundbreaking? Or do
you have to have both? What makes
a juice survive the test of time? Ask
a dozen perfumers and youll probably get, well, a dozen answers. When
pressed, Hennessys definition is that
an icon must be a great juice with a
great story. To Frdric Malle, who
curates his own Editions de Parfums
collection of scents created by some
of the worlds greatest noses, a classic must be revolutionary, not merely reliably popular. What makes a
best-seller is not the same thing that

POWER
PLAYERS
Classicsof
any eraare both
inspired and
inspiring. A closer
look at the
latest additions to
the pantheon.

76

makes a classic, he insists. Victoria


Frolova, the influential creator of
the blog Bois de Jasmin, suggests
that such a scent must not only exert
a hold over the faithful and attract
a steady stream of converts but also
inspire a generation of creators to riff
on its brilliance. And to Calice Becker,
the perfumer who dreamt up Dior
JAdorewhich many say belongs on
any list of modern classicsit must
have the right name, the right bottle,
the right PR, a broad appeal, and a very
defined, very memorable character.
Despite the diversity of definitions, there is one thing that practically everyone in the perfume universe
agrees upon: The scent at the top of
the modern pantheon, the heir to
No. 5 in terms of influence and appeal,
is Thierry Mugler Angel. Created in
1992 by Olivier Cresp and Yves de
Chiris, it is still a best-seller after two
decades and meets every criterion:
originality, popularity, inspiration.
Redolent of cotton candy, caramel,
and chocolate and offered in a blue,
star-shaped bottle, it popularized the
gourmand category virtually on its
own, sending perfumers in an entirely
new direction and spawning countless
imitators, some of which are now considered classic themselves.
With its flamboyant use of
patchouli and ethyl maltol, which
mimics confectionary smells, Angel

THIERRY MUGLER
ANGEL, 1992
The scent: Its radical
confectionary
notes of caramel,
cotton candy,
raspberry macaron,
and hot chocolate
jump-started an
entire category of
modern scents.
The descendants:
Chanel Coco
Mademoiselle; Viktor
& Rolf Flowerbomb;
Serge Lutens Jeux de
Peau; Prada Candy

was not widely loved when it was


launched; some swooned, but many
dismissed it as vulgar and over-thetop. They said it was like burnt sugar, that they could make it in their
own kitchen, recalls Antoine Lie,
the perfumer behind a slew of scents
for Comme des Garons and the cult
favorite Etat Libre dOrange. But the
polarity of the reaction, experts say,
is a key element in the making of a
classic. There is a thin line between
an epic failure and an icon, says Lie.
You have to be shocking, radical, to
take risks. Most of the time you fail,
but then there is that one time that it
tips over the line to perfection.
Angel also retains a special place
in the hearts of hard-core perfumistas because it was not marketed like
a traditional department-store blockbuster. Mugler insisted on dispensing
with the movie-star spokesmodels
and enigmatic, artsy television spots.
Knowing it was an avant-garde scent,
his parent company instead financed
a now-legendary tour across Europe,
hauling fragrance experts into key
cities and towns to explain the elements of the perfume. It took about
three years for Angel to catch on
which was a good thing. It was a slow
burn, and that meant it infused itself
into the consciousness in a really
deep way, says Becker.
So potent is the legacy of Angel that
two other fragrances many consider
modern classics are clear descendants
of Thierry Muglers breakthrough:
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, created in
2001 by Jacques Polge, and Viktor &
Rolf Flowerbomb, launched in 2004.
Both have wide and rabid followings
a decade or more after their launch.
Coco Mademoiselle is more broadly
floral than Angel, and Flowerbomb
twists the gourmand formula with a
lot of rose. Can all three be considered current classics, despite the over-

ISSEY MIYAKE LEAU


DISSEY, 1992
The scent: Redolent
of lotus, freesia, and
cyclamen, this aquatic
floral finishes off
with a touch of cedar
and musklike a
summer sea breeze as
you walk through a
field of wildflowers.
The descendants:
Calvin Klein CK One
Summer; Carolina
Herrera CH Marine;
Givenchy Insens
Ultramarine for Her

BULGARI EAU
PARFUME AU TH
VERT, 1993
The scent: With
notes of orange
blossom, cardamom,
and coriander over
green tea, it led the
way for radiant,
tea-inflected green
scents and is still
considered the ideal.
The descendants:
LOccitane Green
Tea; LArtisan
Parfumeur Th Pour
un Et

DAVID COOK

IN1985,

if you walked up to a table of welldressed ladies lunching at Le


Cirque and asked them to name
the great perfumes of the twentieth century, odds are pretty good
that they could quickly arrive at a consensus. Chanel No. 5, of
course. Guerlains masterpieces, Shalimar, Mitsouko, and LHeure
Bleue. Dior Diorissimo. Jean Patou Joy. Robert Piguet Fracas. All
the supersaturated originals that gave us an olfactory timeline as
evocative as the soundtrack of our favorite old movie.

DAVID COOK

lap? This is actually one of the great


debates in the perfume world. Purists
say no (To me, Angel is the true
innovation, says Becker), but others
dismiss such talk. Virtually nothing
in perfume is new at this point, they
remind us. Coco Mademoiselle is a
twist on Angel, but Mitsouko was a twist
on Coty Chypre and nobody is complaining about that, says Frolova.
Even the toughest critics, however,
concede that the creation of a classic
is often a matter of evolution. Case
in point: LEau dIssey by Japanese
pleat master Issey Miyake. Created
in 1992 by Jacques Cavallier and
still selling strong around the world,
it launched the trend toward fresh,
aquatic elixirsnow quintessential
summer favoritesbut its marine
roots can be traced to New West, a
1990 Aramis womens scent by Yves
Tanguy that never really caught on,
and Calvin Klein Escape, created the
following year. New West was just too
much, too alienating in its revolutionary feeling, and Escape seems a little
unbalanced, with too many fruity
notes, says Francis Kurkdjian, the
creator of Maison Francis Kurkdjian
(and mainstream scents including
Dior Eau Noire and Giorgio Armani
Armani Mania). LEau dIssey
brought it all together, so it was the
one that became timeless.
True classics, experts say, are intimately connected to their time while
also, paradoxically, able to transcend
it. Otherwise they are merely a passing fancy, shoved to the back of the
dressing table once the moment has
passed. Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th
Vert broke ground by prefiguring the
tea revolution, with its Zen overtones
and minimalist elegance wrapped in
citrus and violet wood. Created by
Jean-Claude Ellena in 1993, its freshness and transparency spawned Calvin
Klein CK One, LOccitane Green Tea,

DIOR JADORE,
1999
The scent: A fruity
floral whose
combination of
mandarin,
bergamot, sambac
jasmine, Turkish
rose, plum,
and musk has
kept it a perennial
best-seller.
The descendants:
DKNY Golden
Delicious;
Fragonard Belle
de Nuit

and LArtisan Parfumeur Th Pour un


Et. Born at a time when people were
beginning to live clean and embrace
yoga and meditation, that attitude has
turned out to be an enduring cultural
force, which may explain the scents
resonance. Sometimes you have the
combination of timing and execution,
and the world is in tune with you,
says Becker. You cant plan for that.
If classics must, by definition,
stand the test of time, ten years is
probably just enough to reach the
threshold. One of the newest legends
is Narciso Rodriguez for Her. Created
by Kurkdjian and Christine Nagel in
2003, the scent tapped into another emerging sensibility still going
strong: the sophisticated young womans desire for clean yet sexy simplicity. The nouveau chypre is a radiant
floral update of a very traditional
accord that had fallen out of fashion.
It was designer Narciso Rodriguezs
muse, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, who
planted the seed for the fragrance in
the designers imagination after she
fell in love with a musk shed bought
from a New York City street vendor.
Narciso for Her brought together the
lush and also the very minimal in a
distinctive combination that is still
relevant, says Kurkdjian.
The most polarizing debate among
fragrance experts is whether a scent
truly has to upend the status quo to
achieve greatness, or if its enough to
simply be unspeakably beautiful and
flawlessly executed. Thats the quandary presented by JAdore. Arguably
the most likable scent in the world,
it is also one of the most controversial in any discussion of what makes a
classic. Maybe JAdore is just too successful, its ad campaign with Charlize
Theron too lavish, and its reach too
broad to impress real fragrance junkies. But there is little question that
JAdore is a legendary phenomenon,

CHANEL COCO
MADEMOISELLE,
2001
The scent: Like
most Chanel
perfumes, this
one has a heart
of rose and
jasminebut it
also has flirtier
patchouli, orange,
and vanilla notes.
The descendants:
Dior Miss Dior
Cherie; Lanvin
Rumeur; Dolce &
Gabbana The One

the ultimate example of a gorgeous


composition coupled with a marketing campaign in hyperdrive, a killer
bottle reminiscent of a golden Greek
amphora, and a name that poetically
echoes its origins (who can resist the
incantation of Dior JAdore?).

THERE IS
A THIN
LINE
BETWEEN
A FAILURE
AND AN
ICON.
When it was being developed,
Beckers floral-fruit blend was
famously put up against four other contenders for a major launch by
Dior; every focus group chose JAdore
by a comfortable margin, though
there were more challenging, more
radical entries, insiders say. I think
that was because it was an instant
pleasure, says Becker. It had a lot
of points of entry. While JAdore is
not disruptive by any measure, it has
remained a superstar for 16 years,
beloved for its radiance and clarity,
achieved without sacrificing sillage,
that trail of dreams left behind in the
room. Such harmony itself may be
the key to its iconic reputation.
Perhaps the ultimate rule for what
achieves classic status is that there are
no hard and fast rules. You can say
that an icon has to be shocking, says
Frolova. But sometimes it can just be
shockingly good.

NARCISO
RODRIGUEZ FOR
HER, 2003
The scent: An
intoxicating brew
of orange blossom,
osmanthus,
and amber with a
center of musk.
Frankly sexy,
it brought musk
back into
the mainstream.
The descendants:
Este Lauder
Modern Muse;
Guerlain Idylle

VIKTOR & ROLF


FLOWERBOMB,
2004
The scent: The mix
of tea, bergamot,
sambac jasmine,
orange blossom,
freesia, rose, musk,
and patchouli is as
distinctive as Viktor
& Rolfs clothing
(but easier to wear).
The descendants:
Lancme La Vie Est
Belle; Este Lauder
Pleasures Delight;
Hanae Mori No. 4

77

High

Defintion
After decades of wanting bigger, rounder
breasts, women are increasingly choosing
altitude over amplitude. And modern science
has a new array of breast-lift techniques to
give them exactly that.
By Joan Kron

PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARTER SMITH

79

Traditional Breast Lift

Before surgery

One year after

Michael Law performed this 34-year-olds breast lift via incisions


around the areola and down the center of the lower breast.

80

Breast Lift With Mesh


Reinforcement

Before surgery

One year after

Adams used mesh scaffolding (which is absorbed by the body within


24 months) to help lift this 34-year-old womans breasts.

pulling it upward, while remodeling the tissue through


another incision that runs downward to the base of the
breast. In some cases, the procedure requires an additional small horizontal incision at the base. Many women dont want scars on this part of the body, but they are
unavoidable, says William P. Adams, Jr., an associate clinical professor of plastic surgery at the University of Texas
Southwestern Medical Center in Dallas.
Just as a hidden steel wire can offer support in a bra,
surgeons have experimented with everything from silk
to synthetic skin to make sure these results last. One of
the most promising materials is GalaFlex, an absorbable polymer that is spun into a strong filament and then
woven into a mesh that is four to five times stronger
than the natural breast. We put a crescent-shaped piece
of it in the lower pole of the breast, and the mesh goes
away in one to two years, leaving behind the patients
own tissue that has grown into it, explains Adams, who
is testing the material (which is FDA approved but still
being studied). The mesh isnt cheap, howeverit can add
$1,500 to a standard breast lift.
In 30 breast lifts that Adams has performed with
GalaFlex, patients had stretching of just 10 percent after
one year, versus twice that in the control group. As with all
breast-lift procedures, there is the possibility of relapse,
or bottoming out, which occurs because the skin and
ligaments holding up the newly lifted breasts have already
stretched once, before the operation, and may do so again.
Approximately one in ten women requires a second operation, but individual surgeons with lots of experience
report much lower rates of relapse.
Amanda, a 34-year-old financial-services consultant,
took part in a GalaFlex clinical study a year and a half
ago. I had misgivings about cosmetic surgery, she says.
Before I had the operation, people said to me, Why change
your body? Its so easy for others to say that. But we live
in a world where appearance matters. After her surgery,
though, Amanda is thrilled. I bought a red bikiniwith-

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF WILLIAM P. ADAMS, JR., M.D.; COURTESY OF MICHAEL LAW, M.D.

n the popular conception of breast surgery,


women who seek out the operating room are
generally there for the breasts they never had.
Whether you always wanted the top half of
your hourglass to be bigger or smaller, there
was a surgical option for you. Now another
group of women is growing rapidly. In the
past 16 years, the number of patients opting for breast lifts has risen almost 600 percent, according to the American Society for
Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. This suggests that
the newest trend in breast surgery isnt the quest for what
you never had, but instead for what youve lost. Patients
say, I want my own breasts back, says Christina Y. Ahn,
an associate professor of plastic surgery at NYU Langone
Medical Center in New York City.
This desire to undo the work of gravity usually begins
with noticeable sagging. Essentially, the envelope of
skin encasing the breast and the ligaments beneath have
stretched; the filling has shrunk, giving a pancake shape;
and the nipple is facing down rather than straight ahead,
says Roger K. Khouri, a former professor of plastic surgery
at Washington University in St. Louis, who now practices
in Miami. Pregnancy and breast-feeding can speed up this
migration southward, and so can weight loss, since fat is a
major component of many womens breasts.
Breast-lift surgery, or mastopexy, is an attempt to reverse
the process by cutting away excess skin, redistributing the
filling, and restoring the original projection of the breast
and the methods of doing that successfully represent a new
era of innovation. Doctors perform mastopexies either
alone or combined with a breast reduction or augmentation. They may use synthetic mesh, barbed threads, or the
patients own skin to support the breast on the bottom and
fat suctioned from other parts of the body to add fullness
on top. Patients often actually lose a cup size, according to
a review of 20 mastopexy cases published in Plastic and
Reconstructive Surgery last summer.
In most cases, the surgeon raises the nipple by making
a semicircular incision along the top of the areola and

The newest trend in breast surgery isnt


the quest for what you never had, but for what youve
lost. Patients say, I want my own breasts back.
out an underwire. Ive not been able to do that since high
school. My breasts are back where they belong.
Doctors are using another technique that shows promise
in women who have limited saggingmeaning their nipples
are no more than an inch or so below the base of the breast.
Called Refine, it supports the breast from within. Two
strong, partially barbed sutures are placed vertically in each
breast so they form an upside-down hammock. They are
anchored at the top with a small incision over each breast,
below the clavicle. Once implanted, the barbs on the lower ends of the threads catch some tissue and can be raised
until the nipple on each side is set at the desired height.
Refine raises the sagging breast
and provides more volume in
the upper area, says Jack Fisher,
an associate clinical professor
of breast-lift patients of plastic surgery at Vanderbilt
University Medical Center in
in 2013 were
Nashville, who was one of eight
between the ages
surgeons involved in the early
of 19 and 34.
studies. The threads can also be
The American
used for extra support after a
Society for Aesthetic
surgical breast lift.
Plastic Surgery
As in all surgical procedures,
experience with the technique is
important because, according to the manufacturer, while
the threads can be easily adjusted or removed during the
procedure, removing them later can be difficult. Though
Refine is a virtually scarless proceduresomething women wantbarbed sutures used in recent years for face-lifts
were problematic, causing pain and sometimes asymmetrical results, and were abandoned, so some surgeons are
taking a wait-and-see approach.
Also showing promise is an all-natural method for subtly
reshaping the breasts for those with an aversion to silicone.
The process of injecting a woman with her own fat was
banned in 1987 because of unpredictable results and the
formation of calcification cysts in the breasts that caused
false positives in cancer screenings. But with advances in
mammography technology, that ban was lifted in 2009,
and the practice has resumed. Today, most doctors say that
fat injections alone are not enough to lift the breast, but
the results when fat is used in conjunction with a surgical
lift are impressive. It can fill out the upper portion of the
breast and create better cleavage, says Ahn.
Some surgeons start their patients out with an off-label
use of Brava, a vacuum device that is approved by the FDA
for breast enlargement, to increase blood supply and create
a space for fat that has been suctioned from the patients
back, hips, or thighs. This is painstaking work: Injecting

COURTESY OF MICHAEL LAW, M.D.

25%

the fat into precisely the right spots to create naturallooking contours takes up to one and a half hours (at a cost
of around $900, in addition to the surgeons fees, with a
national average of $4,200, plus operating-room and anesthesia charges). The risks, though small, include the calcification cysts (which doctors now consider harmless) and
lumpiness. Another factor: The added volume in the breast
can fluctuate with weight gain and loss.
There are, of course, many women who still undergo
traditional breast lifts without mesh or injections. Missy,
a 34-year-old full-time mother, is one. I had nursed two
kids. I felt deflated and matronly, she says. I hated bra
shopping. I was always looking for the perfect push-up
bra. She was relieved when her doctor, Michael Law, a
plastic surgeon in Raleigh, North Carolina, told her that
she had enough tissue in her breasts for a surgical lift that
would not require an implant or added fat.
Fifteen months after the surgerya two-hour procedure under monitored sedation (though general anesthesia
is often used)Missy says she no longer needs an underwire bra. At size 34C, she is one cup smaller than before
the surgery. Her scars are faint after six treatments with a
pulsed-dye laser and six months of daily use of a silicone
gel. And more than one year after the operation, she is also
out of the risk zone for early relapse. The biggest reward of
Missys breast lift, however, is the way she feels about herself. I can wear sundresses without a bra again, she says.
I feel more feminine, more comfortable in clothing, in a
bathing suitand in my naked body.

Breast Lift With Fat Injections

Before surgery

Six months after

This 40-year-olds breasts were lifted with traditional surgery plus fat grafts
taken from her abdomen. The surgery, performed by Law, took three hours.

81

SHATTERED PATTERN
Mink coat, silk top and pants,
and leather sandals and
bag by Fendi. Makeup colors:
Brow Tech to Go in Brunette
and Be Legendary Lipstick in
Nylon Nude by Smashbox.
These pages: Hair, Rolando
Beauchamp; makeup, Maki
Ryoke; manicure, Sheril
Bailey. Model: Amanda Wellsh.
Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco.
Details, see Shopping Guide.

82

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TERRY TSIOLIS

Pop
Stars
Black and white and red all
over. The news in prints, from
op art to strong stripes.

JIGSAW PRINT
Viscose georgette top and
viscose Jacquard pants by
Proenza Schouler. Makeup
colors: PureBrow Brow Gel
in Brunette and PureMoist
Lipstick in Madison by
Jane Iredale. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

BLACK BLOCKS
Cotton jacket and pants,
leather sandals, and
leather-and-silicone tote
by Alexander Wang.
Viscose nylon crop top
from T by Alexander Wang.
Makeup colors: Double
Wear Stay-in-Place Brow
Lift Duo in Highlight/Rich
Brown and Pure Color
Envy Sculpting Lipstick
in Insatiable Ivory by
Este Lauder. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

84

STRIPES AND
ZIGZAGS
Beaver-fur coat, nylon
dress, leather heels, and
belt by Louis Vuitton.
Makeup colors: Colorful
eye shadow in Indian
Summer and Rouge
lipstick in Ingenuous by
Sephora. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

SCRIBBLE DRESS
Viscose dress by Sportmax.
Belt by Oscar de la
Renta. Makeup colors: True
Bronze Pressed Powder
Bronzer in Sunswept and A
Different Nail Enamel for
Sensitive Skins in Call My
Buff by Clinique. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

86

SWIRL PRINT
Silk crepe coat by Alexander
McQueen. Wool pants
by Dior. Leather sandals
by Alexander Wang.
Makeup colors: 5 Couleurs
Eyeshadow Palette in
Montaigne and Rouge Dior
Baume Lip Treatment
in Star by Dior. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

RACING STRIPES
Cotton linen top and pants
and leather-and-vinyl
sandals by Marni. Makeup
colors: Ready Bronzer
in The High Dive and
Marvelous Moxie Lipgloss
in Smooth Talker by
BareMinerals. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

88

HIGHLIGHTER
STREAKS
Cotton dress by Mugler.
Leather sandals by
Alexander Wang. Leatherand-canvas bag by
The Common Knowledge.
Makeup colors: Kit
Sourcils Pro Perfect Eyes
& Brows Palette and
Instant Light Lip Balm
Perfector in My Pink
by Clarins. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

89

Good

90

Nights
Scientists have issued a wake-up
call: You can stop worrying
about how many hours you get
and start focusing on how
well you sleep. By Ramona Emerson

ou know those suspiciously energetic people


who walk around saying, Ill sleep when
Im dead? Yeah, we cant stand them either.
But were also not going to quit our jobs or
say no to a weeknight concert just because
the opening band doesnt go on until 10 P.M. And thats
probably fine. Theres new research to support the idea
that good sleep, like everything else, is more about
quality than quantity. There is no magic metric for
how much sleep people need, says Safwan Badr, a former president of the American Academy of Sleep Medicine. The important thing is to stay in bed long enough
to pass through several distinctly different phases of
sleep that, together, promote the rest and recovery we
need for the day ahead (see Rhythms of the Night on
page 93). Fortunately, there are things you can do to get
more out of your time in bed: Our guide to everything
you need to know to ensure peaceful nights of quality
sleep (plus shortcuts for when real life gets in the way).

TRUNK ARCHIVE

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DENIS PIEL

91

Light.

Light plays a crucial role in the sleep cycle, which


acid tryptophan, about an hour before bed. Just dont overdo
is why people who are totally blind tend to take a series of
it. Your gastric juices are tuned to slow down at night, so
naps throughout the day instead of sleeping just at night.
if you gear them up by dumping a bunch of food on them,
Think of light as a drug that promotes wakefulness, says
youll feel more awake, says Joyce Walsleben, an adjunct
Helene A. Emsellem, the medical director of the Center for
associate professor of medicine at NYU School of Medicine.
Sleep and Wake Disorders in Chevy Chase, Maryland. Sleep
experts suggest installing blackout curtains and covering
Sleep cycles are governed by a slightly mysup chargers, routers, and any other sources of extraneous
terious mechanism called the circadian clock, which triglight. In an ideal world, you should begin avoiding light
gers the release of cortisol in the morning and melatonin
two or three hours before bed, says Penelope Lewis, the
at night. But within that 24-hour cycle, there are four-hour
director of the Sleep and Memory Lab at the University of
subrhythms that cause us to feel sleepier or more awake at
Manchester in England and the author of The Secret World
different times of the day. So you might feel really sleepy at
of Sleep (Palgrave Macmillan).
11 P.M., then weirdly alert at midnight. This
Real-life fix: If converting your room into
is why you should go to bed as soon as you
Women vs. Men
a lightless crypt isnt going to happen, at
get drowsy, says Zee. Putting it off by even 30
Women take longer to fall
least turn off the overheads and dim all asleep than men, are more sleep minutes can cause you to miss your window.
deprived, and report more
other lights an hour before bed. And if you
Real-life fix: Tracking your circadian subinsomnia, but scientists have
need to use the bathroom, dont turn on
rhythms would require life-hacking that
the lights. Keep a red or orange night-light yet to discover the reasons why. even Tim Ferriss would find daunting.
The explanation for this lack of
(theyre less bright than other colors) in
Instead, just go to sleep between 10 P.M.
understanding can be summed
an outlet close enough to switch it on from
and midnight. Thats when most adults are
up in a single word: snoring.
bed, says Lewis.
at their sleepiest, says Zee.
Its a symptom of sleep apnea,

Timing.

Temperature.

which is the number-one

Screens.

Your body temShort-wave blue lightthe


reason people check in to sleep
perature naturally drops as you fall asleep. clinics. But women usually report kind emitted by the LED screens on TVs,
other symptoms. They talk
You can make that drop more dramatic, and
tablets, and smartphoneshas been shown
about fatigue and unrefreshing
therefore more sleep-inducing, by heating
to suppress the evening rise of the sleepsleep, and they will often
up your body first. Taking a hot bath about
inducing hormone melatonin, making it
be diagnosed with depression
an hour and a half before going to sleep is
harder to fall asleep. Melatonin starts to
instead of sleep apnea, says
the easiest way, says Lewis. A cool bedroom
flow around 9 or 10 oclock, and bright
Monica P. Mallampalli, the
also promotes restful sleep, but that doesnt
light will shut that down, says Walsleben.
director of scientific programs
mean you need to turn your room into an
Real-life fix: Some experts suggest turning
at the Society for Womens
ice hotel; just keep it below 68 degrees.
off screens hours before bed, but lets get
Health Research.
Real-life fix: Raising skin temperature by
real. Instead, dim the screen of your laptop,
as little as one degree causes people to fall asleep faster
smartphone, or tablet to 50 percent and hold it no closer
and spend more time in deep sleep. So if theres no time
than 14 inches. A 2013 Mayo Clinic study found that this
for a bath, try holding a hot-water bottle against your
distance reduced the amount of blue light enough that it
stomach as you fall asleep.
didnt mess with melatonin. If youre reading on an iPad
or Kindle, switch the setting to the black background with
A long nap may make you feel ready to take
white letters, which gives off less ambient light.
on the world. Unfortunately, that energy can continue into the night, making it harder to fall asleep later,
Not only does anxiety make it harder to fall
which is why experts suggest keeping naps short. If you
asleep, but it can cause sleep disturbances even after youve
nap for too long, youll go into deep sleep, and that will
managed to doze off, according to a 2014 study published in
decrease your bodys need to get more that night, says
the Journal of Sleep Research. When researchers told people
Phyllis C. Zee, the director of the Center for Circadian
they would get a financial reward if they fell asleep quickly,
and Sleep Medicine at the Feinberg School of Medicine
they slept for less time and woke up more frequently and for
at Northwestern University in Chicago. Long naps also
longer periods than people who had not been given a sleep
leave you feeling drowsy immediately after you wake.
incentive. And what about Fitbit-type bracelets that moniShe suggests limiting daytime rest to 30 minutes max.
tor, among other things, how long and how deeply you sleep?
Real-life fix: If a half-hour nap just isnt enough, at least try
If youre already a good sleeper, they may be helpful. When
to catch up on sleep as early in the day as possible. Youre
people are told that they slept well, they perform significantly
less likely to drop into deep sleep during late-morning and
better on cognitive tasks than people who were told the oppoearly-afternoon naps because the need for more deep sleep
site, according to a 2014 study published in the Journal of
hasnt had the chance to build up.
Experimental Psychology. But if your tracker is telling you
that you were up all night, that can only add to your anxiety.
Its not exactly an Adderall situation, but certain
Real-life fix: Dont catastrophize. If you wake up during
foods can disrupt sleep. Cured meats, aged cheeses, soy
the night, dont freak out. The trick is to say, Oh, this is
sauce, nuts, and avocado all contain an amino acid (tyraone of those normal things, instead of thinking of it as
mine) that can inhibit sleep by triggering the release of a
something youre doing wrong, says Walsleben. If youre
neurotransmitter (norepinephrine) that makes us feel alert.
feeling anxious, try these updated versions of counting
Real-life fix: If you need to snack, experts suggest yogurt, tursheep: Redecorate a friends home, or lose yourself in
key, or low-fat milk, all of which contain the sedating amino
memories of your recent vacation.

Naps.

Anxiety.

Food.

92

How Much Do You Need?


While most adults do best on eight hours of sleep, some need
ten, and a very small numberless than 1 percent of the
populationfeel fully rested after six, says Lewis. For the best
estimate of your personal quota, you need to determine how
many hours of sleep you require to wake up without an alarm
clock. Take a weekend off from nighttime activities to
create your own personal sleep-monitoring clinic. On Friday
night, go to sleep at your usual time and let yourself wake
up naturally. This wont be your optimal sleep duration, since
youll probably sleep longer to make up for weekday
sleep deprivation. Saturday night is the true test. Go to sleep
at your regular time and wake up again without an
alarm clock, Badr suggests. Thats your optimal sleep time.

Rhythms of the Night


If you were to put electrodes all over your head and observe
yourself as a scientist does in a sleep lab, a blissfully restful
night of sleep might look something like this:
Youre actually asleep before you even know it. You know
that feeling when youre lying in bed thinking about tomorrows
work presentation and all of a sudden a moose walks in?
Thats stage one. Not quite solid sleep, but getting there.
After about ten minutes, stage two, or true sleep, begins.
You start to have bursts of frenetic brain-wave activity
what experts refer to as sleep spindleswhich are thought
to strengthen and preserve memory.
About 30 minutes later (the timing can vary), you slide
into the deepest stage of the night, stage three. This is when
something called slow-wave sleep begins. If your brain
waves are frenzied when youre awake, during slow-wave sleep
they become slow and steady, as the neurons in the
cortex of your brain begin firing in sync. The most physically
restorative type of sleep, this stage is important for
immune function, cell regeneration, and metabolism.
The sleep cycle ends with one more vital stageREM,
short for rapid eye movement. If slow-wave sleep benefits
the body, REM is for the mind. In one study, people who
reached REM sleep while taking a nap did almost 40 percent
better on a creativity test than those who did not. Its when
most of our dreams take place, which may explain why all
but a few muscles are partially paralyzed during REM.
(Otherwise, you might literally jump out of bed during a
nightmare.) We resolve things during REM sleep. We
clean our memory filters and keep the important facts and
get rid of the inconsequential ones, says Walsleben.
This whole cycle lasts about 90 minutes and repeats four
or five times throughout the night, with more slow-wave
sleep early on and REM increasing as morning approaches.
Mind and body are equally refreshedunless something
interrupts the cycle. Alcohol, for example: Alcohol disrupts
the later parts of the cycle. This may partly explain the
emotional hangover after a night of drinking, since REM is
thought to be critical in mood regulation.

The Right Stuff


Feeling like a zombie is one clue that you spent
the night tossing and turning, but its not the only
way to tell if you slept soundly.
How long does it take you to wake up? Waking up
without an alarm clock is a sign that you slept
welland dont worry if you still feel a little groggy.
Your brain is in a very different chemical state
when youre asleep, says Lewis. Feeling fuzzyheaded for 30 minutes while your brain transitions
to being awake is fine, but if youre out of it for
much longer, then your sleep wasnt restful,
says Kristen Knutson, an assistant professor of
medicine at the University of Chicago.
How sleepy do you feel during the day? Its normal to
feel tired at different points throughout the day.
Whats not normal is to feel so sleepy that you cant
perform normal daytime tasks. If youre fully rested,
youre going to stay awake even if youre in the most
boring lecture. But if you have trouble staying awake
in situations when youre sitting down, youre not
getting enough sleep, says Knutson.
How many times do you wake up at night? Waking up
during the night is normal. Doctors call it arousal,
and most people do it up to five times an hour for a
few seconds and for a few minutes between sleep
cycles. Its only a problem if youre waking up more
than ten times per hourand notice it the next day.
Fragmented sleep can lead to daytime sleepiness
and could be a sign of sleep apnea, says Meir Kryger,
a professor of medicine at Yale School of Medicine.

Light or Heavy?
If youve always assumed that people who say they
slept through their alarm are liars, youre
probably a light sleeper, and that might have to do
with what is going on, or rather not going on,
in your brain. When researchers exposed sleepers to a
variety of soundsa toilet flushing, street noise, an
airplane overheadthey found that staying asleep was
associated with the bursts of intense brain activity
(sleep spindles) that sleepers had experienced.
The researchers theorized that spindles are one way
that the brain keeps outside sensory information from
waking you up. Unfortunately, we sleep less as we
age. Ever notice how you can practically stand a
newborn on her head without waking her up but your
parents deliver a breakfast-table play-by-play of their
nighttime awakenings? While theres no way to train
yourself to be a deeper sleeper, you can try to
block as much outside stimulation as possible. The
best way to do this without moving to a soundproofed
home is to wear earplugs, since ambient noise
is the most common cause of sleep interruption.

Music with a slow, stable rhythm and low-frequency tones can


significantly improve sleep quality, according to a recent study.
Bedphones makes headphones specifically for sleeping; theyre thin and
pillowy, and the cable goes behind your head so you dont strangle
yourself. An app detects when you fall asleep and turns the music off.
93

THE
COMFORT
ZONE

Jennifer Aniston is laid-back


and fired up. She speaks out
about her risky upcoming movie,
the hurtful motherhood
comments, and why, exactly,
she calls herself a feminist.
By Brooke Hauser

ennifer Aniston has a way of connecting with women. On the Today show
this summer, she addressed some of the
questions that people have been asking
her for years: When will she get married?
When will she have a baby? In a friendly,
candid tone, Aniston told Carson Daly, I
dont have this sort of checklist of things
that have to be done...and if theyre not
checked, then Ive failed some part of
my feminism...or my value as a woman.
Within minutes, fans took to the Internet
to tweet their support: Amen, Sista!; Thats feminism, go
girl!; Thank you, Jennifer Aniston.
Every once in a while, when she decides to comment on
a relationship or quash a persistent rumor, Aniston says
something that really sticks. And I dont have a checklist
is as good an answer as any, not that Aniston is worrying
about hitting any marks. She and her fianc, actor-directorwriter Justin Theroux, celebrated Therouxs forty-third
birthday and their two-year engagement in Bora Bora,
where she went paddleboarding.
Life is pretty good for Aniston, 45, who, along with Theroux, just completed renovations on their home in Los Angeles. The house is much like Aniston herself: guarded on the
outside, but open and welcoming to those she invites in. A
few minutes into our interview, it becomes clear that her
living roomwith its minimalist decor, stocked bar, and
enormous windowsis first and foremost about living. And
sometimes life gets messy. Watch outincoming! Aniston
shouts, seconds before her pit bull mix, Sophie, charges
the couch and licks my chin. Maybe its all those years of
reading about her and watching her on TV (hard to believe

94

that Friends first aired two decades ago), but theres something about Aniston that inspires kinship. At times, you
just want to high-five her or give her a hug. Aniston doesnt
court a following; she simply attracts it. Lately, she has been
embracing that in a new wayand now shes taken seriously
as both a businesswoman and an actress.
You want to obsess over her hair? Be her guest, and join
the good-hair club. Aniston is a co-owner of and spokeswoman for Living Proof, a beauty company founded by
biotech scientists who, as she puts it, decided while curing
cancer and heart disease, Lets figure out womens bad-hair
days. Shes not kidding. With roots at MIT, the company
includes scientists from backgrounds in cancer research.
New this month: Living Proof Curl, a line of products
promising to help curly hair hold its shape without frizz.
Anistons hair is naturally curly, though in the past she
usually wore it straight because controlling the texture was
so arduous. I mean, the amount of crap that Id have to load
up, layering different products and going down to the ocean
and getting some water bottles filled with beach water [to
spray on it]. That would work. But how often are you near a
beach?... Its nice to let it go raw and animal. You just have to
have the right product, says Aniston, who mentions some
of Living Proof s lab tests for the line. For one, the scientists used water bottles to simulate a rainstorm by spritzing
two locks of curly hair that had been treated with two different products: Living Proof Curl Defining Styling Cream
and a competitor. Ours stayed bouncy and curly, she says,
clearly proud of it. Its nice when something works and
does what it says its going to do. A bad-hair day really can
set you off on the wrong foot, as can many other things, but
its nice when you get the good hair down, because that way
you can focus on all the other things that are going wrong.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

Beaded silk dress by


Altuzarra. Makeup
colors: Crease Proof
Eye Shadow in
Stay-Put Plum and
MoistureSmooth
Color Stick in Warm
Caramel by Neutrogena.
These pages: Hair,
Chris McMillan of Chris
McMillan, The Salon;
makeup, Charlotte
Tilbury; manicure,
Tom Bachik. Set
designer: Ali Gallagher.
Fashion editor: Paul
Cavaco. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

95

r the other things that are going


right. For instance, her relationship with Theroux, who, by the
way, loved her hair when it was
short. (He thought it was sexy,
says Aniston, who has stepped out
in a sharp bob occasionally over
the years.) Shes not the type to
flaunt her happiness by posting
lovey-dovey pics on Instagram, but that doesnt mean
that theyre not lovey-dovey. When Theroux comes home,
she brightens. He hangs out for a few minutes, just long
enough to play with Sophie and answer an impromptu
question. Id read that they do facial masks together on
Sunday nights. True?
Aniston: Yes, we do. We switch around. We do Cellcosmet.
Theroux: Its adorable.
Aniston: Its adorable. But hes honestly so comfortable in
his masculinity. As opposed to some guys, who would never
Theroux: Ride that line.
Aniston: You do. You ride the line, babe.
Theroux: Babe, we gotta do our masks. I never do that.
Aniston: [Smiling] No, you dont.
Aniston isnt so much an interview subject as she is an
improv partner, playful and on point. And although she
is known for that great, snap-crackle-pop comedic timing, not everyone knows that shes capable of being more
serious onscreen. Even though Rachel is a few stoplights
behind her, she still has to prove that she can play dramatic roles. I will say, it is not always easy to get certain people
to believe that you can do that, Aniston says. Sometimes
you have to work a little bit harder to get through.
In her upcoming film Cake, a low-budget drama that
she also helped produce, Aniston practically disappears
into the role of Claire, a woman trapped in chronic physical
and emotional pain after being in a car crash. It was unlike
anything Id ever done before, says the actress. So much of
the exercise was just letting yourself fall apart.
During filming, Aniston stopped wearing makeup, shaving, and looking in mirrors; she also had a large prosthetic
scar on her face. After the film premiered at the Toronto Film Festival, critics speculated that the role could get
her an Oscar nomination. Audiences love when a beautiful
actress downplays her looksHalle Berry in Monsters Ball
and Charlize Theron in Monsterbut Aniston, for one,
doesnt believe this aspect should be remarkable.
Its so interesting: A woman going physically unattractive is where you get recognition and some sort of
respect. You read things like, Oh, finally, shes acting!
Aniston scoffs. What does she make of the fact that so much
attention is paid to the physical appearances of actresses,
especially when they go without makeup for a role? Quite
sexist, to be honest, because men dont get that.
Aniston isnt one to preach, but when an issue is
important to her, shell speak up. She was unaware of
the recent buzz around the word feminism. When I ask
what she makes of the fact that certain young actresses
have rejected the label while others, including Emma Watson, have embraced it, Aniston just looks confused. How
can you say youre not a feminist? They dont believe in
equal rights? she asks. Right, Sophie? Aniston coos to
her dog. Youre a feminist, arent you?
Aniston has supported the cause both publicly and pri-

96

BEAUTY
CALL

vately. She invested in


Ms. magazineIt was at
a time when [cofounder
Anistons hair is awfully
Gloria Steinem] was tryfamous. The Living Proof
ing to bring Ms. back,
co-owner and Aveeno
and a group of us put
spokeswoman reveals more
in moneyand she is
about her beauty routine.
still friendly with SteiHave you ever made a
beauty mistake? Mini
nem. When they first
Mohawk, when I was
met 15 years ago, Shed
14. And the worst makeup
just gotten married after
mistake was the 80s.
a long time saying, Im
That was all a mistake.
Have you learned any great
not going to be marhair tricks from a stylist?
ried, Aniston recalls.
For those who have
It was just so intercurly, unmanageable hair,
esting to hear her say,
braid your hair at night
Well, you change your
while wet and sleep in it.
What part of your
mind; things change.
beauty routine would you
Its not like youre maknever let your fianc
ing this huge statement,
witness? Theres nothing I
like, I will never. It
wouldnt let him see.
Allure: And vice versa?
just hadnt happened.
Aniston: Totally. Oy.
A beat. She didnt have
Whats a typical days diet?
a checklist.
Morning shake with a
A year ago, Aniston
piece of toast. A salad with
interviewed Steinem at
protein and vegetables. An
afternoon snack of a soup,
the Makers Conference
green juice, and a handful
in Rancho Palos Verdes,
of nuts. And then I have
California, a three-day
some form of protein and
program that brought
vegetables for dinner.
Whats your biggest food
together leaders and
craving? Nachos.
trailblazers to talk
What are your favorite and
about womens rights
least favorite workouts? I
and gender equality.
love them all. I love working
It would be an underout. The only time I dont
like it is when Im tired.
statement to say that
Whats the best beauty
Aniston was anxious
advice you got from your
about interviewing one
mother? Start using eye
of her idols at the concream in your 20s. I
was using eye cream when
ference, where Sheryl
I was, like, 18.
Sandberg and Gabrielle
Giffords were among
the speakers. The questions she asked Steinem were so thought-provoking,
I took the opportunity to ask Aniston to answer a couple
of them herself.
Why is feminism such a complicated word?
Because people overcomplicate it. Its simply believing
in equality between men and women. Pretty basic.
What was the most hurtful thing you found yourself
continually coming up against as you were fighting this
fight over the years?
Oh, God, so many painful things. The accusation
that Ive put my career before the want, the desire to be
a mother. This continually is said about me: that I was so
career-driven and focused on myself; that I dont want to
be a mother, and how selfish that is.
Ticking off these accusations now, she seems matter-offact, unfazed. But when I suggest to Aniston that maybe she
just lets the insinuations roll off her back after so many
years of hearing them, she corrects me. No, she says quietly. Even saying it gets me a little tight in my throat. Of
course, she isnt the only woman who has felt judged for

Believe it or not, she


has naturally curly
hair, says Anistons
longtime hairstylist,
Chris McMillan, who
used products from
Living Proofs new Curl
line for styling. (Hes
the companys celebrity
hairstylist; Aniston
is a co-owner.)

97

Circa 1972

98

Baby picture
Well, who
doesnt want
to be a clown?
I dont know
what that
[outfit] was,
but that was
a clown or
just a terrible
childs outfit
that my
mother put
me in.
2006

2008

With Catherine Keener and John


Srednicki in Friends With Money
I love Keener. And I loved that
character. I like brokenI like a
human experience, you know?
Great cast. Nicole Holofcener is
one of those fabulous women
directors who I cant wait to work
with again. Ill just wait by the
phone patiently.

Filming 30 Rock
Tina Fey, funny. Alec
Baldwin, I worship,
genius. Sweet Jane
Krakowski. That whole
cast was so fun. I love
shooting in New York
City more than I can
explain. I just love it so
much. The energy, the
city itself, the people.

In New York City Oh, that was Elder


Statesman. Tunic, tights, Lanvin boots. Wed
just come from doing Good Morning
America. I saw a puppy walking down the
street, and I fell in love with it and had to take
a picture. I love dogs. How can you not?
2011

2011
With Charlie Day in
Horrible Bosses Well,
whats more fun than
making Charlie feel as
uncomfortable as you
possibly can? I love it.

2014

With Justin
Theroux at
the premiere
of The
Leftovers in
New York
City Im so
proud of him.
We have so
much fun
together....
It was nice
to learn how
to sort of
relinquish
control and
let someone
really care
deeply for
you. Its quite
wonderful.

THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

not being married or having children, and while she might


have bowed out of this sort of discussion a few years ago,
she seems ready to talk now.
I think Ive been guarded for so long because [Ive] been
burned so many times. You really do become gun-shy, she
says. But then at a certain point, who gives a shit?
The personal is political, as the saying goes, and when
youre as famous as Aniston, talking about your beliefs can
have real ramifications. At the very least, it can help change
the conversation, or so she hopes. Among the words shed
like to see retired: Spinster, barren, geriatric pregnancies, she says. We need to revisit the language!
It does feel like an unfair pressure [on] women, not
just myself, Aniston continues. I have a lot of friends
who decided not to have children, who cant have children,
or are trying but are having a difficult time. Theres all
sorts of reasons why children arent in peoples lives, and
no one has the right to assume. Its quite rude, insulting,
and ignorant, she says. I dont like [the pressure] that
people put on me, on womenthat youve failed yourself
as a female because you havent procreated. I dont think
its fair. You may not have a child come out of your vagina, but that doesnt mean that you arent motheringdogs,
friends, friends children.
In Anistons library, everywhere you turn, there are
pictures of family, friends, and children. And then there
are the dogs. Aniston and Theroux currently have three,
not counting...well, let her explain. These are all of our
dead dogs, she says, gesturing toward three urns stored
in the bookcase. A bit quirky, perhaps, but Aniston has
always done things a little differently, and in Theroux, she
seems to have met her match. Were equals, she says.
Hes a nurturer. He is so fiercely loyal. Beyond protective.
I mean, the way he takes care of our dogs, he takes care of
me, he takes care of friends.
When I ask about a comment she once madethat Theroux has good parental instincts (I meant paternal)she
goes into improv mode again. Oh, he does.... He feeds me;
he puts my bib on, she says, then turns sincere. Hes got
extraordinarily beautiful fatherly instincts.
As for her engagement, the impending nuptials feel
impending enough that the couples close friends have taken to showing up at their house in formalwear.
Its adorable. If we throw a little pizza party, we have
this couple...every time, they would come over in black
tie, or at least a proper suit; she was in a gorgeous dress.
It happened at a Fourth of July party. Were all in jean
shorts, and they came in going, Is it happening?! Aniston
squeals and laughs. There was a time when people thought
we were going to throw a party and surprise everybody.
No, shes not about to reveal her wedding plans. But, she
says, we do talk about it all the time. Before wandering
out onto the deck overlooking a serene pool and a private, winding path, Aniston says, I dont feel that if I dont
achieve the perfect picture of the white picket fence, the
little house with the family and the dogs, I have failed.
Its getting late. The sky is turning dusky, and Theroux
waves to us from his office, warmly lit. Taking in the views
of the glittering city and the Pacific Ocean shrouded in
fog, I float the idea that this might be better than the house
with the white picket fence.
It is a little bit, Aniston says, and smiles. Must be a
little bit better.

2002

With Liv Tyler at the filming of


MTV Icons: Aerosmith in Culver
City, California Thats Liv,
who I absolutely love and adore.
You couldnt find a kinder human
being. And Im introducing
Aerosmith. I auditioned for an
Aerosmith video when Id just
moved out here. [Steven Tyler]
is so sweet. We just sort of
became chatty fans of each
others. And now, since Liv and
Justin [Theroux] are on The
Leftovers, they hang out all the
time.... I dont even know what
[Im wearing], except that its
like a doily around my chest. I
just love how young and
whimsical it is. Couldnt really do
that today. Well, I mean, I could.
I just dont know if I would.

1998
With Paul Rudd in The Object
of My Affection Im dancing
where are we? Im pregnant
with his child. Right? Im actually
drawing a blank on what
happened [in the movie]. We
have fun. He lives in New
York. Whenever we can [get
together], we do.
2009

With Courteney
Cox at the
2010 Crystal +
Lucy Awards
in Century City,
California
This is my
uniform, right
there. Id gotten
back from
shooting Just
Go With It. I
dont think she
knew I was
even coming.
That was a Roland
Mouret dress.
I love it, worship
it. As I do that
woman Im
standing next to.

2010

With Ben Affleck in Hes Just Not That Into You


Ben. Hes so sweet. I love ensemble pieces.
Just because someone doesnt necessarily
believe in the institution of marriage,
which was his [character]...and what that
translated back to her was, I dont love you.
She had to leave to realize that its not the
institution that youre striving for; its the
love and the person that youre striving for.
2012

2014

With her
father,
receiving a
star on the
Hollywood
Walk of
Fame
Ah, Papa.
Handsome
Greek man.
Always has
a kerchief
if hes out
to a fancy
event. So
handsome.

2004
On Saturday Night
Live That was the
second time I hosted
SNL. I think this was
an ad for an album that
these country girls
were coming out with.
Thats some serious
curly hair. And look
at that outfit. Thats
fabulously tragic.

2011

2013

2012
With Paul Rudd and Justin Theroux in
Wanderlust Theres all of our gang.
[Justin and I] got to know each other in
this, but we met when he was writing
Tropic Thunder. But this is where we all
became really good friends. We got
together way after we shot this movie,
so whenever we come upon it, its so
weird; we werent even, like, thinking of
each other in those terms back then.
This is so funny when I look back.
With Gwyneth
Paltrow at a
Stand Up to
Cancer event in
Hollywood
Ive known her a
long time. That
woman has
got style to the
moon and back.
Chic, effortless,
gorgeous.
This sums us up.
Look, Im in a
T-shirt, jeans,
and 400-year-old
shoes, and
this one is just,
like, to a T.
Shes always been
sweet to me.

2013
With Chelsea Handler
at the Vanity Fair Oscar
party in West
Hollywood Thats my
girl. Not only funny but
kind, caring, loyal.
Thats a big red dress.
Felt like The King and I.

2014

In Cake Oh, pretty girl. Thats...


pain. Loss, trauma, chronic
pain, addiction. There is a good
person in there, but it is so
buried under pain, grief, drugs,
booze, and everything. I loved
her. I had such empathy for the
pain that she was in.

At an event
for her
fragrance
Jennifer
Aniston
in New
York City
Thats
Vivienne
Westwood.
Love that
dress. Bright
color, I
know. More
color than
Im used to
wearing.
Im holding
my first
perfume that
came out.
With Chris
McMillan at a
Living Proof
launch in New
York City Chris
is so adorably
awkward. He
makes me
happy. Very
good friends. I
love that dress.
Its loose and
comfortable.
Ive had that
shoe for way
longer than I
should admit.
Its over ten
years old. Yep. I
keep shoes for a
very long time.

2014

With Lisa Kudrow, Courteney Cox, and Jimmy


Kimmel on Jimmy Kimmel Live! This was
so much more exciting and moving than we
anticipated. We did not expect this set to
be as accurate as it was, and it was very surreal.
All the girls were game.

99

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100 Allure January 2015

PHOTOGRAPHERS CREDITS
BEAUTY REPORTER Page 20, clockwise from top left: Sonny
Vandevelde/indigitalimages.com/style.com; David Cook; John
Manno; David Cook (8); Delphine Achard.
FASHION CRAVINGS Page 26, David Cook (still lifes); Giovanni
Giannoni (Louis Vuitton); courtesy of Stella McCartney (Stella
McCartney); courtesy of Marni (Marni).
BLANKING OUT Page 42, from left: Courtesy of Zoya; courtesy
of Sally Hansen (2); courtesy of OPI.
THE POWER OF TRANSFORMATION Page 49, top row, from left:
Dave Benett/Getty Images; Adam Houghton/Capital Pictures/
Retna Ltd.; Uppa-Ipol/Globe Photos; Mike Marsland/WireImage;
J. Vespa/WireImage; Michael Buckner/Getty Images; Carlo
Allegri/Getty Images; Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images. Second row, from left: Gregg DeGuire/WireImage; Jason LaVeris/
FilmMagic; Scott Wintrow/Getty Images; Paul Zimmerman/
WireImage; John Kobal Foundation/Getty Images; George
Hurrell/John Kobal Foundation/Getty Images; Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic; Jean Baptiste Lacroix/WireImage. Third row, from left:
Ron Galella/WireImage; Gregg DeGuire/WireImage; S. Granitz/
WireImage; Venturelli/WireImage; Tim Graham/Getty Images
(2); Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic; Oliver Hardt/Getty Images. Fourth
row, from left: David Livingston/Getty Images; Andrew H.
Walker/Getty Images; Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Harry Langdon/Getty Images; Stefanie Keenan/WireImage; George Pimentel/WireImage; William Carroll/Corbis; Michael Ochs Archives/
Getty Images. Fifth row, from left: David Hume Kennedy/
Getty Images; Alexander Nemenov/AFP/Getty Images; Scott
Mclane/Retna Ltd./Corbis; Daniel Zuchnik/WireImage; Elisabetta
Villa/Getty Images; Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic; Scott Barbour/
Getty Images; Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images. Sixth row, from
left: J. Vespa/WireImage; Miguel Villagren/Getty Images; Charles
Rex Arbogast/AP Photo; Morry Gash/AP Photo; Ron Galella/

SHOPPING GUIDE
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silk dress, $6,500. Vivienne Westwood, Los Angeles. 323-9510021. Sophia Webster beaded leather boots, $2,250. Us.sophia
webster.co.uk. Schiaparelli Haute Couture gloves, price available upon request. By special order at Schiaparelli, Paris.
33-0-1-5535-2090. Page 65: Emporio Armani PVC-and-silk
dress, $1,745. Emporio Armani stores. Alexis Bittar ear cuff,
price available upon request. Alexisbittar.com. Complexion
Perfection, page 69: Nina Ricci linen jacket, $1,890, and skirt,
$1,050. Neiman Marcus stores. Cartier steel-and-leather watch,
$2,740. Select Cartier stores. Prada leather bag, $2,950. Select
Prada stores. Pop Stars, page 82: Fendi mink coat, $41,000; silk
top, price available upon request; silk pants, $1,500; leather
sandals, $950; and leather bag, $2,900. Fendi, N.Y.C. 212-7594646. Page 83: Proenza Schouler viscose georgette top, $1,150,
and viscose Jacquard pants, $1,650. Proenza Schouler, N.Y.C.
212-420-7300. Page 84: Alexander Wang cotton jacket, $1,095;
cotton pants, $525; leather sandals, $425; and leather-and-silicone tote, price available upon request. Alexander Wang, N.Y.C.
212-977-9683. T by Alexander Wang viscose nylon crop top,
$285. Alexander Wang, N.Y.C. 212-977-9683. Page 85: Louis
Vuitton beaver-fur coat, price available upon request; nylon
dress, $3,250; leather heels, $2,130; and belt, $570. Select Louis
Vuitton stores. Page 86: Sportmax viscose dress, $895. Sportmax, N.Y.C. 212-674-1817. Oscar de la Renta belt, $790. Oscar de
la Renta stores. Page 87: Alexander McQueen silk crepe coat,
price available upon request. By special order. 44-207-318-2222.
Dior wool pants, $1,350. Dior stores. Alexander Wang leather
sandals, $425. Alexander Wang, N.Y.C. 212-977-9683. Page 88:
Marni cotton linen top, $560, and pants, $640. Modaoperandi
.com. Marni leather-and-vinyl sandals, $620. Marni stores. Page
89: Mugler cotton dress, $2,439. The Webster, Miami Beach.
305-674-7899. Alexander Wang leather sandals, $525. Alexander Wang, N.Y.C. 212-977-9683. The Common Knowledge
leather-and-canvas bag, $595. Thecommonknowledge.us. The
Comfort Zone, page 95: Altuzarra beaded silk dress, $3,600.
Barneys New York, N.Y.C. 212-826-8900.

WireImage; Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic; Seth Poppel/Yearbook


Library; Douglas Kirkland/Corbis. Bottom row, from left: Frank
Micelotta/Getty Images; Jason Merritt/Getty Images; Ealing/The
Kobal Collection; Bettmann/Corbis; Paul Morigi/Getty Images;
Larry Busacca/Getty Images; Richard Chambury/Richfoto/Globe
Photos; Todd Williamson/WireImage.
HAIR REBELS Page 54, clockwise from top left: Gary Gershoff/
Getty Images; David M. Benett/Getty Images; Jason LloydEvans; Splash News; Neil Rasmus/bfanyc.com; Timur Emek/
Getty Images; Tommy Ton/Trunk Archive; Andreas Branch/
Patrick McMullan/Sipa USA; Danny Martindale/WireImage;
Raymond Hall/FilmMagic.
FINDING HER VOICE Page 67, top row, from left: Jason Merritt/
FilmMagic; Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic; Gregg DeGuire/FilmMagic;
Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic. Second row, from left: Gregg DeGuire/
FilmMagic; Charley Gallay/Getty Images; Denise Truscello/WireImage. Bottom row, from left: Steve Granitz/WireImage; Chelsea
Lauren/WireImage; Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic; Valerie Macon/
Getty Images.
THE COMFORT ZONE Page 98, clockwise from top: Kadena
Pix/bauergriffinonline.com; James Devaney/WireImage; Erik
Pendzich/Rex USA; John P. Johnson/Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Sony Pictures Classics/Everett Collection. Page 99, top
row, from left: 20th Century Fox Film Corp./Everett Collection;
Michael Caulfied/WireImage; Mary Ellen Matthews/NBC Photo
Bank/Getty Images. Second row, from left: New Line Cinema/
Everett Collection; Lester Cohen/WireImage; Mike Coppola/Getty Images. Third row, from left: Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic; Gemma
La Mana/Universal Pictures/Everett Collection; Kevin Mazur/
WireImage; Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images. Bottom row, from
left: Kevin Mazur/American Broadcasting Companies Inc./WireImage; courtesy of TIFF; Randy Holmes/ABC.

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PRIVATEEYE

WHAT GETS
YOU ON
THE DANCE
FLOOR?
Celebrities are an extroverted buncha
tendency that extends to the dance floor.
We asked guests at the CFDA Awards,
Fashion Rocks, and the launch of Calvin
Klein Reveal what song gets them on their
feet. Iggy Azalea goes for something
ridiculouslike the Spice Girlsthat you
cant even dance to properly now. Then
the pressure is off me. Like-minded
stars include James McAvoy, who loves
Copacabana; Sting, a fan of Hot Pants
by James Brown; and Karen Elson. A Girl
Like You by Edwyn Collins, she said.
Its a 90s song because Im a 90s girl.
Kate Mara rocks to Miley Cyruss Bangerz
album, and Serena Williams swears by
Turn Down for What by DJ Snake and Lil
Jon. Neil Patrick Harris has a complicated
relationship with his number-one hit.
That song #Selfie is a disaster, but I cant
stop listening to it, he said. DJs, take note.

KOKOMO
BY THE
BEACH BOYS.
MILEY CYRUS

Katie Holmes
Rump Shaker.

Amber Valletta

Greta Gerwig

Heart of Glass
will always get me on
the dance floor.

If there is any
Hall & Oates,
Ill be out there.

Rashida Jones
Michael Jackson, Dont
Stop Til You Get
Enough. Classic
always works.

Marion
Cotillard
Lykke Li. And
anything
by Rihanna.

Oprah Winfrey
It would take an entire
marimba band to
get me up, because Im
so jet-lagged.

MICHAEL KOVAC/WIREIMAGE (CYRUS); JASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES (GERWIG); PAUL REDMOND/WIREIMAGE (WINFREY)

JEFFREY SLONIM

Photographed by Patrick McMullan

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