Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Moscow
February - March 2015
More than
11 years
in Russia!
inyourpocket.com
N37
Poking around
Pokrovka
A stroll through
Moscows past
Is it Spring
yet?!
Holidays to help
you beat the cold
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
In the News
Public transport
City Basics
Language
Features
What to see
39
Moscow Theatre life 16
The Kremlin
39
Celebrating Russias winter 18
Churches and monasteries
40
Russian women 21
Ride an icebreaker
41
Pokrovka 24
Museums 41
Hidden museums 46
Russian icons
42
Murmansk 60
Parks and gardens
42
26
Russian cuisine
27
Bring on the bliny 32
Artistic places
Interview with concierge
50
Nightlife
Shopping
Shopping centres
Russian souvenirs
51
51
52
Business directory
53
Where to eat
36
43
Where to stay 48
55
56
57
St. Petersburg
58
62
66
67
February - March 2015
Foreword
In the News
E S S E N TI A L
About IYP
RUSSIA
LATVIA
LITHUANIA
BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM
POLAND
UKRAINE
GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
ITALY
HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA
New attractions
at Arkhangelskoe
Immersive exhibitions
at Artplay
Cover story
ESTONIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
Space-age housing
1920s style
Claustrophobia
It might seem like a nightmare straight out of 1984, but
struggling to find a way out of a locked room is fast becoming one of Moscows hottest entertainment tickets. The
Claustrophobia Quest challenges guests to solve ingenious
mental puzzles and work out how to escape from a variety of themed rooms. Its a bit like an intellectual version
of the classic TV show Fort Boyard, with groups of up to
four players seeking a way out from haunted houses, nuclear bunkers or medieval dungeons, among many choices.
Although the settings are designed for the Russian market,
the challenges are non-verbal, making them accessible to
anyone. The key thing is being able to communicate with
team-mates to unlock the door and escape before the time
runs out. For more information see www.phobia.ru.
o
:
, 196084 -
. . 25, . .
. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
: + 7(812) 448 88 64
.
16 .
,
191024, -, .
, . 17.
No26829
No. 2-6849 17.10.03
-
.
60 000 . No37.
01.02.2015
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Aeroexpress Trains
All international airports in Moscow have a fast train
connection to the capitals city centre. All? Yes, all!
Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal
and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal
and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket
counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals,
through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies,
and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed
almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets
can be found on the companys website where you can
purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You
can buy an electronic ticket from the official website
www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view
train timetables. Download their free mobile app and
you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using
your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket:
the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the tickets
QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).
Arriving by train
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and
whether you are coming from east or west, north or
south, Moscows many train stations are always bustling
with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those
arriving very early in the morning to the stations around
Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and
Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia,
the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a
taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area
can be rather dangerous at night.
Belorussky Station
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress
train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
Kazansky Station
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
Kievsky Station
Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.Q-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.
Kursky Station
For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy
Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.
kursky-vokzal.ru.
Leningradsky Station
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya
pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.
leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Paveletsky Station
For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.
railclient.ru.
Rizhsky Station
Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5,
Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88,
www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
Yaroslavsky Station
The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains
go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as
Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russias most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.
Public Transport
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between
each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the
beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket
is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or
multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 50Rbl. On
the more modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each
carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages,
however, it is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to
hear in rush hour, so if you arent familiar with Moscows
many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you
need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as
the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy
to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the
metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward,
with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows
and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the
next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting ostanovite pazhalsta! anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 50Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!
Car Rental
Avis Russia Car Rental
AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports,
as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel.
(+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Hertz
Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. Its possible to collect
a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges.
Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Taxis
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
youll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com
English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscows premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300
drivers in Moscow.
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
Its also accepted practice to hail down random cars and
negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To
indicate youre looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm
down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it
is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are
notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the
city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree
to a price in advance (Skolko?) and if the driver refuses,
slam the door and move on to the next Lada.
City Basics
Language
Be on guard!
useful phrases
Basic frases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I need some
help
I don't want
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. Its illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro
stations, banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices
The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Climate
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)
Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the Customs and Currency Declaration Statement
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an experts
report, either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.
Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
Youll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.
Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
Post
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russias post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
It hurts!
Bolno!
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Could you write Zapishite
it down?
pazhalusta
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Who?
Kto?
How do you say Kak skazat eto
that in Russian? pa-russky?
No problem
Bez problem
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol
-
-?
!
()
?
...?
?
!
/
?
?
?
?
-?
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
alphabet
A
B
V
G
D
E
YO
ZH
Z
I
Y
K
L
M
N
O
P
R
S
T
U
F
KH
TS
CH
SH
SHCH
Y
E
YU
YA
no sound
theatres
Bolshoi Theatre
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
Helikon-Opera
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.
Maly Theatre
Q-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK
Mayakovsky Theatre
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru.
Moon Theatre
QD-5, Ul. Malaya Ordynka 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 953 13 17, www.lunatheatre.ru.
Moscow English Theatre
Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details.
Natalia Sats childrens Music Theatre
QPr. Vernadskogo 5, MUniversitet, tel. (+7) 495 930 70
21, (+7) 965 302 27 80, www.teatr-sats.ru.
10 Moscow In Your Pocket
Sovremennik Theatre
QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19,, MChistye Prudy, tel.
(+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru.
Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko
Moscow Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru.
Taganka Theatre
QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.
FEBRUARY events
08.02 Sunday
20:00 Yann Tiersen
In Russia Yann Tiersen is
best known and loved for
his music for the Amelie
soundtrack - but it would be
wrong to pigeonhole him
purely as a film composer.
In reality the Frenchmans
work spans a wide range of
genres. Adept on a range of
instruments as well as being
an accomplished composer,
Tiersens output runs the gamut from folktronica to classical minimalism, from post-rock to old-school indie. This
concert, part of a tour in support of his recent album Infinity, is likely to focus more on the latter; the evidence of
that disc suggests that, for the time being, Tiersens creative inspiration is finding its outlet in vocals and guitars
rather than elaborate instrumentation.QYotaspace (Glavclub), Ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky pr., tel. (+7) 495
230 10 30, www.yanntiersen.bzh. 1,900 - 5,000Rbl.
12.02 Thursday
20:00 Alex Clare
Sometimes life gives out
a second chance, as Alex
Clares career proves. In
2012, following the underwhelming performance of
his debut album, he was
working as an estate agent
and putting dreams of stardom behind him. Then the
fates intervened: one of his
songs was picked up for
a Microsoft ad and almost overnight the forgotten man
became a hot ticket. Last years follow-up release Three
Hearts overcame some sniffy reviews to sell well in Europe
and his role in the updated version of Jeff Wells War of the
Worlds also went down well. Can he take full advantage
of his professional reprieve and string together a lasting
career, or is this the last gasp of a limited talent? Hear for
yourself at Yotaspace.QYotaspace (Glavclub), Ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky pr., tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30,
www.yotaspace.ru. Tickets 1,800 - 5,000Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
14.02 Saturday
20:00 Garik Sukachov: My Vysotsky
Eventually every legend of the Russian music scene has to
square up with Vladimir Vysotsky, the great bard singer.
Vysotsky was a kind of Soviet Dylan; a man with a guitar and
a message that could not be silenced. Similarly his music
has been colossally influential on subsequent generations
of artists, and his songbook has been covered by pretty
much any serious (and many not-so-serious) singers ever
since. Garik Sukhachev was one of the enfants terribles of
the rock scene of the late Soviet era before his 90s band
Neprikaayemye became one of the biggest act of the postCommunist years. Last year he recorded a Vysotsky tribute
album, featuring 13 songs. Many have been performed on
stage before, but this concert is the first time they have all
appeared together.QRay just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31,
bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.garik.
su/albums. Tickets 2,300 - 1,500Rbl.
17.02 Tuesday
20:00 Laura Pausini
One of the more unexpected pleasures for Anglophone
music lovers in Moscow is the wide range of Europop acts
that continue to tour here. Russians, unlike their Englishspeaking contemporaries, have never been daunted by
listening to songs in foreign languages and that means a
wealth of artists from France, Germany and, in this case,
Italy, have achieved success here. Laura Pausini wraps up a
two-year World Tour that marks 20 years since her breakthrough triumph at the Sanremo festival; in that time shes
performed with the likes of Kylie Minogue, Andrea Bocelli
and Charles Aznavour, bringing her trademark style to a
host of ballads and love songs. Despite her fame on the
continent, though, she has seldom managed to attract
English-speaking audiences: her one English-language
release struggled for sales.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD
65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.
laurapausini.com. Tickets 2,000 - 6,000Rbl.
23.02 Monday
19:00 Lyube
Defenders of the Fatherland Day is one of Russias most
patriotic celebrations, so what better way to spend it
than in concert with President Putins favourite band? The
group, renowned for its rousing ditties inspired by Russias
military power, is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year,
and at a time when popular patriotism is at a rare peak in
the country its a fair bet there will be plenty of airtime
devoted to their music. Priding themselves on unpretentious lyrics that speak to the hard of those who have
served in Russias armed forces, the band blends rock and
folk motifs, the band moved away from its military image
with the release of 2009s Our People, but in the current
political climate its likely that this gig will have them back
at their patriotic best.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66
Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lubeh.
matvey.ru. Tickets 900 - 14,000Rbl.
11
Another long-serving band celebrates its 30th birthday this year, but if Vezhlivy Otkazs artsy Petersburg
sound represents Russias intelligentsia, the old-school
blue-collar rock of Chaif! comes straight from the
factories of the Urals. And the bands roots in Sverdlovsk, as Yekaterinburg was still known when Vladimir
Shakhrin and the boys first strummed a chord, are the
inspiration for the anniversary show at Olimpisky. The
evening promises a run-down of greatest hits and an
authentic singalong for fans of one of Russias most
enduringly popular acts; it might not be the high of
fashion, but for a bit of raucous good fun its hard to
beat.QSK Olimpisky (SKO), Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr.
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.otkaz.ru. 1,000
- 8,000Rbl.
12 Moscow In Your Pocket
Exhibitions
01.03 Sunday
20:00 De Phazz
This German cutting-edge jazz group are frequent visitors
to Moscow, and their 2011 New Years Eve gig at 16 Tons
was one of the most talked about events of that winter.
But the appeal of this band never gets stale: founder and
producer Pit Baumgartner constantly rotates the line-up
of musicians with each passing album, guaranteeing an
ever-evolving sound that encapsulates the bands determination to deliver futuristic jazz at every turn. The most
recent release, 2013s Nave, was something of a Greatest
Hits affair, reworking several popular classics into mellower, more jazzy versions. For a smooth evening of laid-back
lounge, De Phazz is hard to beat.QYotaspace (Glavclub),
Ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky pr., tel. (+7) 495 230
10 30, www.dephazz.com/. Tickets 2,000 - 10,000Rbl.
14.03 Saturday
19:00 Leonid Agutin
The presenter of the Russian edition of The Voice is one
of the most influential figures in the countrys pop music
scene and his live shows are renowned for a glittering cast
of special guests. As one of the most popular singer-songwriters on the Russian pop scene, Leonid Agutin boasts an
extensive back catalogue of hits; although surprisingly his
one big international release, Cosmopolitan Life in collaboration with Al di Meola, was largely overlooked in Russia
despite selling well around the world. Much of the music
in tonights show is to be performed by Esperanto, Agutins latest group of prodigies, and while the list of guest
stars is a closely guarded secret it is likely to an impressive
assortment of chart-toppers.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD
65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.
agutin.com. Tickets 1,200 - 18,000Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the
salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce
the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gerard to Russian
audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoe show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupovs
galleries.QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.
arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month.
Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion
200Rbl. AUW
Through 12.04 Sunday
The Magic of the Body
The Tretyakov Gallery continues its exploration of
the nude with an exhibition devoted to the works
of 20th century artists.
The wide-ranging collection surveys many different approaches to drawing and painting a nude
model, ranging from the
dream-like beauty of Zinaida Serebryakova to the deliberate coarseness of the artists from the Jack of Diamonds
school, with its emphasis on brute force and physical
strength. Representatives of Russian Realist art and the
cult of physical fitness promoted by the USSR also feature in this large-scale retrospective that delves deep into
the vast storerooms of the largest collection of Russian
art.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky
Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.
tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon.
Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.
Through 12.04 Sunday
The Silver East
The treasures of Central
Asia go on display at Tsaritsyno with a glittering
display of jewelry from Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan and
Kyrgyzstan. Throughout
this region, made wealthy
by the trade routes linking east and west, master
craftsmen prided themselves on creating intricate pieces
full of tiny parts, matching the colorful and elaborate national costumes of these countries. Regional variations
can also be seen; Kyrgyz jewelers tend to a simpler, more
archaic style while Turkmen designs often have a monumental shape. The collection brings about 150 samples for
19th and early 20th century work, showing off the regions
traditions prior to the interruption of creative life brought
by the 1917 Revolution.QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1,
MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsynomuseum.ru. Admission 80 - 350Rbl.
February - March 2015
13
Sport
01.02 Sunday - 31.12 Thursday
Samovars of the 18th-20th centuries
Few things are as redolent
of Russia as a piping hot
samovar steaming away at
the table, dispensing limitless hot water for cups of
tea. This exhibition brings
many of the highlights of
the Lobanov family collection, covering the many
shapes and sizes of samovar that have been developed over the years including
the famous cockerel design that won a gold medal at the
1873 World Expo in Vienna. There are also a few celebrity
urns. Perhaps the most intriguing is the samovar set that
the future Tsar Nikolai II was supposed to present to the
Emperor of Japan, while other figures from Russian history
including Alexander Blok, Vera Komissarzhevskaya and
Denis Davydov also feature in this extensive survey of the
samovar.QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km
Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60,
www.arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat - Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of
the month. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl,
with excursion 200Rbl.
26.02 Thursday - 12.04 Sunday
David LaChapelle
Hes been called the Fellini of photography and his career
has seen him taking portraits of generations of celebs
since the 1980s. David LaChapelle started out working
for Andy Warhols Interview magazine, where he developed the high-octane hyperrealism that has become his
trademark. But aside from the glitz and glamour of portrait
work, LaChapelle also has a keen interest in art history, often sneaking references to past classics into his prints or
using them to share a social message. This show at Moscows Multimedia Art Museum is one of the first events
of 2015s Fashion and Style in Photography biennale.
QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul.
Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11
00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
15
Features
Features
STANISLAVSKY
music THEATRE
and Khovanshchina
Dating back to 1918-1919, the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the
largest and most successful theatres of Russia. The opera
and ballet performances are well known to Moscow audiences, and attract more and more international visitors.
The theatre takes part in many international projects and
is nominated every year for the Golden Mask national
theatre award. In 2013 the theatre was even nominated
mately 30 operas and ballets a year. Natalia Sats educational philosophy is reflected in the repertoire and, alongside
new versions of fairytales such as Puss in Boots, Snow White
and The Frog Princess, there are also productions of adult
operas like Madama Butterfly and Eugene Onegin, as
well as more contemporary ballets like the Snow Maiden.
Fine, young talents work in the theatre and often go on to
achieve real fame after their time at the Sats theatre.
One of the newest and most exciting additions to the repertoire is a take on one of Charles Dickens most prominent
works, Oliver Twist! In the musical The Life and Extraordinary Adventures of Oliver Twist we will once again
meet Oliver, the charming little rascal from London and his
buddies.
For those who are not too familiar with the plot, the story
follows an orphan, Oliver Twist, who endures a miserable
existence in a workhouse and then is placed with an undertaker. Not keen on being constrained, he soon escapes
and travels to London where he meets the Artful Dodger,
leader of a gang of juvenile pickpockets. Thats where navely unaware of their unlawful activities, Oliver is led to the
lair of their elderly criminal trainer Fagin
His adventures will combine the best of Natalia Sats traditions with modern day broadway and theatre trends.
Alexander Tchaikovsky was responsible for the music and
children with serious theatrical training act out the roles of
Oliver and his little partners in crime. Kids and adults alike
would be missing out on first class entertainment if they
dont make it to this production!
NatalIa Sats
CHILDRENs Music
Theatre
QPr.
Vernadskogo
5, MUniversitet, tel.
(+7) 495 930 70 21,
(+7) 965 302 27 80,
www.teatr-sats.ru.
February - March 2015
17
Features
February is the coldest month in Russia, and after three or
four months of dark days and cloudy weather, we all need
a reason to celebrate. Fortunately in Russia there are plenty
of reasons to gather together with friends and celebrate
life in general. The season kicks off in romantic style with
Valentines Day, a time for couples to celebrate their love
and for singles to make the most of being single. This is
followed nine days later by Defender of the Fatherland day,
a great excuse for the girls to celebrate the courage and
fearlessness of their man, and for the lads to get together
and just celebrate being blokes with vodka, beer and the
sorts of stories they wouldnt dare tell the girls, brave as
they are. If and when you survive these two celebrations,
its time to kick back and relax with a pancake or five
through the week of Maslenitsa, and once this marathon
effort is over, youre ready for The Big One International
Womens Day. Roses are red, violets are blue, if you dont
buy her flowers, thats the end of you
CELEBRATING
RUSSIAS WINTER
As you still reel from the festive onslaught
of Christmas, New Year, Christmas again - oh,
and Old New Year - Russia steps in with the
jab, uppercut and haymaker of Maslenitsa,
Defenders Day and Womens Day. Read our
guide to the pre-Spring holiday season, and
you may not need to throw in the towel.
Seconds out, round two...
18 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Defender
of the Fatherland Day
Defender of the Fatherland Day (it sounds just as longwinded in Russian) was originally a holiday to commemorate the
formation of the Red Army in 1918, and is still celebrated in
many former Soviet republics. In 1995 it became known
as the Day of the Military Glory of Russia, during a trend
for changing Soviet names, although its most commonly
known simply as Mens Day. Although technically it is still
a military holiday, its also a public holiday, so all men are
celebrated, whether theyve ever worn khaki or not, and
has in effect become the male counterpart (or perhaps pale
shadow) of International Womens Day. February 23rd is
therefore accompanied by a host of beer and other alcoholrelated festivals to help the day go with a bang.
Maslenitsa
Maslenitsa is an ancient pagan festival which has been absorbed into Orthodox tradition and celebrates the end of
winter and the arrival of spring. Running from February 16th
to the 22nd, and known in other countries as Mardi Gras or
Carnival, In Russia it celebrates the last week before Lent with
a massive, knock-down drag-out pancake-fest designed to
carb load the faithful in preparation for 40 days of abstinence.
On the last day of Maslenitsa, theres usually a union of pagan
and Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing
winter is set ablaze with true mediaeval pyromaniac glee.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
19
Features
Wait For Me by
Konstantin Simonov
Wait for me, and Ill come back!
Wait with all youve got!
Wait, when dreary yellow rains
Tell you, you should not.
Wait when snow is falling fast,
Wait when summers hot,
Wait when yesterdays are past,
Others are forgot.
Wait, when from that far-off place,
Letters dont arrive.
Wait, when those with whom you wait
Doubt if Im alive.
Wait for me, and Ill come back!
Wait in patience yet
When they tell you off by heart
That you should forget.
Even when my dearest ones
Say that I am lost,
Even when my friends give up,
Sit and count the cost,
Drink a glass of bitter wine
To the fallen friend Wait! And do not drink with them!
Wait until the end!
Wait for me and Ill come back,
Dodging every fate!
What a bit of luck! theyll say,
Those that did not wait.
They will never understand
How amidst the strife,
By your waiting for me, dear,
You had saved my life.
How I made it, we shall know,
Only you and I.
You alone knew how to wait We alone know why!
Konstantin Simonov said
of his own masterpiece,
There is no special story
to Wait for me. I was just
going to war, and the
woman I loved was staying behind. And I wrote
her a letter in verse. Yet
the words that follow
were to be engraved in the hearts of countless Russians during the Great Patriotic War: it was cut out of
the paper, copied out, learned by heart, and sent back
in letters to wives and sweethearts. Not even originally intended for publication, in the history of Russian poetry it would be hard to find a poem which
had such an impact.
20 Moscow In Your Pocket
Features
Valentines Day
Russian Women
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Olga of Kiev
A convert to Christianity at
least 30 years before Kiev
Rus followed suit, Olga was,
by all accounts, not someone to be trifled with. In
945, her husband Igor, son
of Rurik, was killed by the
Drevlians while attempting to collect tribute it
was apparently the second
collection within a month,
hence their ire. In response, Olga had various Drevlian envoys buried or burned alive, before inviting another 5,000 to
a feast, who were also slaughtered. She then sent an army
to raze their city to the ground with the aid of we kid you
not incendiary-equipped birds. Most likely of Varangian
descent, her name is a derivation of the Old Norse Helga,
meaning holy, and is of course still in common use today.
Upon conversion to Christianity she took the name Elena,
and ruled as regent until her son, Svyatoslav the Brave,
reached maturity in 963. In fact she ran domestic matters for
a good few years after that, as Svyatoslav was much happier
waging war on neighbouring fiefdoms. Mindful no doubt
of her husbands fate, Olga made changes to the tribute system in accordance with which appointed officials, and not
the ruler himself, did the collecting. She is thus credited with
making the first recorded legal reform in Eastern Europe.
Nadezhda Durova
The daughter of a Russian
army officer, Nadezhda Durova was raised in the care of
her fathers subordinates following a near-death experience in her early years when
her unstable mother, who
had wanted a son, snatched
her from the arms of her
nanny and threw her out
of the window of a moving
carriage. It is said that her favourite childhood toy was a gun,
and she wrote in her own memoir The Cavalry Maiden that
her first cradle was a horses saddle. The call of the army did
not leave Durova when her father retired, and in 1807 she absconded from home, disguised herself as a boy and joined up,
fighting with distinction in the Prussian campaign of 1806-7.
When she finally wrote home from the front, her family used
their connections to try to locate her, and word that a woman
was serving in the Imperial Army eventually reached an intrigued Alexander I. When she was summoned to court, Durova so impressed the Tsar that he awarded her the Cross of
St George and promoted her to the rank of lieutenant. In 1812
she saw action at both Smolensk and Borodino, sustaining a
leg injury at the latter from a cannonball. The Cavalry Maiden,
considered one of the earliest autobiographies written in Russian, may never have come to light at all had Durova not been
persuaded many years later to publish her war diaries by a
certain Alexander Pushkin.
February - March 2015
21
Features
Features
Alexandra Kollontai
Anna Pavlova
Marina Raskova
Born in Ligovo, St. Petersburg in 1881, Anna Pavlovas passion for ballet
was ignited at an early age
when her mother took her
to see Sleeping Beauty at
the Mariinsky. Perhaps best
known for her creation of
the Dying Swan, Pavlovas
rise was by no means a
steady one, and it was only
her extraordinary dedication that enabled la petite sauvage to become one of the greatest prima ballerinas of
the 20th century. Her unique, expressive style thrilled audiences all over the world, in fact it is said that no dancer,
before or since, has travelled as extensively: 350,000 miles
in 15 years. In order to better support her frail, rigid feet,
Pavlova added a wooden block to her ballet shoes in what
was considered a cheat at the time, but gave rise to the
now universal pointe shoe. She moved to London in 1912,
where she went on to become a major force in the development of British ballet. In 1931 Pavlova contracted pneumonia while on tour in The Hague, refusing a remedial
operation that might have meant she would never dance
again. Succumbing to pleurisy shortly afterwards, her last
words were said to be Get my Swan costume ready.
Sofia Tolstaya
Behind every great man,
and all that, but this literary giants devoted spouse
must really be put in a category of one. If you want
evidence, look no further
than the fact that she is
said to have copied out
and edited the manuscript of War and Peace
not once, but seven times.
Sofia was introduced to her husbands writings at an early
stage in their relationship: on the eve of their wedding he
is said to have given her his diairies, which detailed, among
other things, his idiscretions with female serfs, one of
whom had borne him a child. Undeterred (although presumably more than a little miffed), Sofia added another 13
official offspring to the Tolstoy total, although only eight
were to survive childhood. Tolstaya can also lay claim to
being one of historys first social photocorrespondents,
having taken up photography in 1887: she left a collection
of over 1000 photographs depicting not only her husband
and life on the Yasnaya Polyana estate, but also more generally the last days of tsarist Russia. She also left her diaries,
and a memoir simply entitled My Life. Sofias 48-year marriage ended on a sour note: after continual conflict over
Toltsoys stated determination to relinquish all his worldly
possessions, Leo abruptly left his wife at the age of 82, and
died less than two weeks later.
22 Moscow In Your Pocket
Sofia Kovalevskaya
Born in 1850, Kovalevskaya was a renowned
mathematician,
writer
and advocate of womens
rights in the 19th century.
Her struggle to obtain the
best education possible
forced her to study overseas, and she entered the
University of Heidelberg
in 1869. Dedicated to social reform, Kovalevskaya
made a key contribution
to opening university doors to women in Russia. In 1883
she lectured at the University of Stockholm and was
made Professor of Mechanics, becoming the first female
professor in Northern Europe. In 1888 she was awarded
the coveted Prix Bordin by the French Academy of Sciences for a pioneering paper on the motions of bodies,
and the following year, after vociferous lobbying by her
peers, was granted a Chair at the Russian Academy of Sciences, although she was never to receive a full professorship. In addition to her mathematical writings, Kovalevskaya also published her memoir A Russian Childhood,
co-wrote a number of plays, and authored the semiautobiographical novel Nihilist Girl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Marina Tsvetaeva
Were you to compile a list
of countries producing
tragic literary geniuses,
Russia would probably be
right near the top. If you
then made another list just
for Russia, then Marina Tsvetaeva would most likely
be at or near the top of that
one. Born in Moscow in
1892, Tsvetaevas family left
Russia for warmer climes during her early teens in a futile
attempt to prevent her mother from succumbing to tuberculoisis, and in 1910, aged just 18, she published her first collection of poems to considerable acclaim. Having returned
to Russia after the revolution, with no financial support, and
her husband Sergei Efron fighting with the White Army, in
1919 she placed both their daughters in a state orphanage,
where the youngest died a year later aged just 3 years old.
In 1922 Tsvetaeva went into political exile, living in poverty
in Paris, Berlin (where she was reunited with Sergei, who
she thought had been killed) and then Prague. In 1939 she
went back to the Soviet Union where both Sergei and her
surviving daughter Ariadna were arrested as spies. In 1941,
Sergei was executed, Ariadna imprisoned, and Tsvetaeva
hanged herself not long afterwards. Boris Pasternak wrote:
The greatest recognition and reevaluation of all awaits Tsvetaeva, an outstanding twentieth century poet. Tsvetaeva
left an immeasurable literary legacy, but her rehabilitation
was not to begin until the 1960s.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Valentina Tereshkova
Not only the first woman
but also, as her enrolment
in the Soviet Air Force was
purely a formality for her
to officially become a cosmonaut, the first civilian in
space, Valentina Tereshkova
is the first great woman on
our list to still be alive today.
A textile worker by trade, it
was her weekend hobby,
skydiving, that led to her advancement into the fledgling
Soviet space programme. Selected from over 400 applicants, Tereshkova blasted off on her first (and only) flight on
16 June 1963, completing 48 earth orbits in just under three
days, in the process notching up more space time than the
entire US manned space programme had up to that point. Ha!
Tereshkovas post-cosmic career took her first into engineering, thence into politics, where she became a high-ranking
member of the Supreme Soviet and the Central Committee.
Nor did her star fade with the collapse of the Soviet Union
Tereshkova remains a revered figure in Russian public life, and
was one of the flag-carriers at the opening ceremony of the
2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. At one time a member of the
research team looking into the feasibility of going to Mars, in
2013 Tereshkova, then 76, was quoted as saying that shed still
be prepared to go, even if it ended up being a one-way trip.
February - March 2015
23
Pokrovka
Pokrovka
DON GIULIO
Salumeria
Formaggeria
Prodotti Italiani
a Mosca
This unusual little shop
marks out its own Italian
territory in the unfamiliar
Moscow surroundings.
The combination of the
most traditional Moscow
architecture in the centre
of the city and the powerfully beating Italian heart
inside makes this little shop a truly inimitable environment. The owner himself, Giulio Zompi, will be happy
to use his expertise of selling Italian wines to advise
you on what to drink with your fresh assortment of
Italian goods. They also opened a shop at Mal. Bronnaya ul. 22/15 (entrance via tea house Le Voyage du
Th, metro Tverskaya) and Presnenskaya nab. 10 (Moscow City, tower B, metro Vystavochnaya). Don Giulios
latest venture is La Scarpetta, a restaurant that takes
its Italian roots just as seriously as do the shops. It is
located on pereulok Kholzunova 9/1, just a short walk
from Frunzenskaya metro station. QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka
27, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 926 666 33 70. Open
10:00 - 21:00. A
February - March 2015
25
Where to eat
Where to eat
Asian and Indian
Aozora
You know how people often tell you that once youve
eaten sushi in Japan you cant really go back to eating it
anywhere else? Well, what about when you are in Moscow
and find yourself in a restaurant full of Japanese people
eating sushi - must be a good sign, right? We freely admit that Aozora is located in a large hotel, but dont let
that put you off.The interior here is an effective mix of
gold leaf, samurais and steely grey, and the menu doesnt
disappoint. As well as sashimi and sushi/rice boxes, there
are great udon soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat
wallets - real Kobe beef.QHotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,
MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58 30, www.
aozzora.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAVW
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.
Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill
up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book
in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars
and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one
Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for
good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
- 0 - 400Rbl
400 - 800Rbl
800 - 1,200Rbl
1,200Rbl plus
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
Cafe Pushkin
This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and just as
popular with local business men as passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscows rich and famous now frequent
it, but at one time it was the citys only upper class restaurant
where you could eat European standard food. The Russian
and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor
there is a sophisticated 24-hour caf and a restaurant called
the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739
00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs,
the second floor 12:00 - 23:30. . PAVEGW
Bely Zhuravl
Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow is served up at this
simple restaurant, and the portions are huge! Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) are
provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The
idea here is to bring a group of friends and share things out
between you as the soups, noodles and meat dishes come
by the kilo. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can make
it difficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean cuisine,
although there are at least pictures.QFrunzenskaya nab.
14, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 775 06 56, www.beliyjuravl.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAVSW
Dacha na Pokrovke
The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for
simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings.
Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this caf/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and
pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of
the type youd usually find at a flea market, certainly has a
special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian
classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks
off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live
music most evenings.QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15 (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open 12:00
- 04:30. . PAEGSW
Darbars at Starosadsky
Darbars is known for the authentic fresh Indian food which
at one time could only be found in the hotel Sputnik. Since
they took over the famous and popular Maharaja restaurant,
you can now find them in the centre too. The chef and staff
are the same as in the Maharaja and continue their tradition of renowned Indian hospitality, welcoming you with a
complimentary crispy papadum starter. Follow this with a
wide choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes all prepared
according to traditional methods, and to whatever level of
spiciness takes your fancy.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 963 757 02 90, www.darbar.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAVGS
Odessa Mama
Drawing inspiration from the slightly raffish Ukrainian port
that launched a thousand summer holiday memories, it
presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere
that has had crowds flocking to the large dining hall near
Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to Odessas Jewish heritage brings a couple of items that you wont find in your
staff canteen - the hummus, currently Moscows most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you grew up in the USSR, this
is like going back to your carefree childhood; if you didnt
its maybe a bit difficult to see what the fuss is about.QD-2,
Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7)
964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
. PTAVEGSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Tan
Sometimes it can be hard to find a really good Chinese
restaurant, and not just in Moscow, but anywhere. Tan,
however, just off Triumphalnaya Square, bucks this trend.
The menu boasts a huge choice of high quality traditional
Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern
adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is
impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and
the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by
the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with
a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or
to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of
the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg.
1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www.
restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs. . PAGSW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
russian cuisine
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and
other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what
that green grass stuff is, its dill (ukrop) and it usually
finds its way into everything.
27
Where to eat
Beer Restaurants
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub
from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden
furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech
food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied
by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky
Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour.
QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PAVSW
Pilsner Paveletskaya
Already seeing almost three million people through its
doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has
sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head
chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy
Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer
sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice
of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well.
Also at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2
(Polyanka), Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD-5,
Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
951 86 33, www.pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. .
PAGSW
Where to eat
Coffee Pyu
One half beauty salon, one half caf - for manicures turn
left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic
coffee brews theres also a wide range of teas as well as
delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a
confident move I drink coffee has an open kitchen, which
is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and
sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact
the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they
wouldnt even mind if you did.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9
bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www.
coffee-piu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00
- 23:00. Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. . PAGW
Khleb and Co
This swanky little bakery, near the Church of Christ the
Saviour is just the spot to pick up a lunch time snack,
breakfast croissant or a crusty fresh loaf to go with that
soup youre planning for dinner. The entrance way is the
same door as for Restaurant Vertinski. Service is accommodating, packaging is slick and everything is baked
according to the French bakery tradition. Also at ul.
Tverskaya - Yamskaya 12/14 (metro Mayakovskaya) and
Chistoprudny bul. 12/4 (metro Chistye Prudy).QB-4, Ul.
Ostozhenka 3, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 962 091 15
98, www.eatout.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 22:00. . PASW
Caucasian
Gayanes
An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food.
Great examples of the regions specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov
khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced
minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented
yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back
and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayanes
authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow
bits and said to be the food of heroes. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark
blue line) metro station.QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4,
MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60, www.gayanes.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAVSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Khachapuri
An inexpensive little Georgian caf with a minimalist
interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy
music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it
is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that
will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on
top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The
shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty
of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with
homemade fruit drinks.QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky
per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.
hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
. PAVEGSW
Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian dcor, low lighting, and
even a pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscows finest. The venue was opened on the
17th of the 7th month - the day when Noahs ark is said
to have ran aground. The menu offers many classic shish
kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD-3,
Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917
07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PAVGSW
Saperavi
Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings. No tacky water features here,
thank you very much: instead its bright colours, stylish lighting, comfy chairs and a little light house music.
The menu does feature good, solid fare like an excellent
meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy
khachapuri, but also adds its own twists on things, as for
example with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They also
do an great job of explaining the ins and outs of all the
exciting dishes on offer.Q-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya
ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89 93, www.
saperavicafe.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 01:00. . PAVGSW
European
Bjrn
The moment the the doors of Bjrn were opened to the
Moscow public, word spread like wildfire. In the evening
this laconic, nature-inspired and utterly Scandinavian
place has very few free tables. The secret to Bjrns success is, of course, the typical contemporary Scandinavian
approach to food: an abundance of rich, imaginative
flavours in tune with nature and none of your pretentiousness. The Danish head chef ensures that everything
guests taste is in complete accordance with the best
northern cuisines have to offer. Scandinavian specialties such as venison, salmon, herring and cod taste even
better with friendly staff and a delightful northern drinks
menu!QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3, MNovokuznetskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 953 90 59, www.bjrn.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. . PAGW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Brix
If it is fine wine you seek, look no further. There are few
better bars where you can sip a good wine in good company than at Brix 2. Whilst the bars chic character may
match its classy customers - neither reflect its modest
prices. With wines so well-selected and well-priced,
whats the catch? We havent found one yet!QB-2, Maly
Kozykhinsky pereulok 10/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 925 95 94, www.brix-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
PAW
Coin
Despite its name, this former printhouse offers a very
reasonably priced varied menu of fantastic European
food, and boasts a drinks menu for any occasion. Owner Alexander Shikin has plans to introduce concerts
and exhibitions to this vast, stylishly renovated industrial space where there are already multiple screens
for sports viewing. Be sure to check the restaurants
Facebook page for updates.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul.
71/5, bldg. 2, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 67
80, www.coin-hall.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
closed. . PTAGW
February - March 2015
29
Where to eat
Funky Lab
Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange
combo, but not at Funky Lab. Whats really in a name? This
restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention
being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from
a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures of all
the dishes? Dont be surprised when you pick out a dish here
just because of the way it looks. But the best thing about
Funky is that, while presented in a beautiful and funny way,
the food is just plain good. A relaxed atmosphere, friendly
service and very reasonable prices in a down-to-earth location this restaurant deserves its visitors.QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951
06 07, www.funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. . PAEGSW
Where to eat
Red Pepper
This unpretentious restaurant with its inviting open kitchen offers a very pleasant introduction to Bulgarian cuisine,
with the chefs preparing a wide range of delicious Bulgarian meat dishes. For those who are not up for an East European culinary adventure, theres plenty of antipasti, pizza,
pasta, risotto and even very good fish dishes to choose
from. With a low-key interior, this place focuses on what
is important, and you will certainly be more than satisfied
after they have brought you the food. Fresh ingredients,
professional service, surprisingly good wines, and just a
few minutes from Tsetnoy Bulvar metro, this restaurant
is certainly worth a visit.QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 2, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 507 73 74. 10:00 - 22:00 (until last
guest). . PAGW
Scandinavia
An icon of Moscows expat scene, Scandinavia has provided service with a smile for almost two decades now.
This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies
such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, though: the bar menu also boasts
a hefty and popular burger. The central location and calm
international atmosphere mean there are more than a few
suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7
(enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTAGSW
Lucien
Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the
Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The
story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted
by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous
Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Open the menu and you are
met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine.
Dont miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked
fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit,
sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff the
mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with
exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm
beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms.QUl. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PTAGW
Art Clumba
Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba
is a restaurant-caf-concert space which sets everything
at the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully
selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines
and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that
lets the well-sourced ingredients shine. The whole layout
itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige combo highlighting the buildings unique architectural features.QArtPlay
na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10,
MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.art-clumba.
ru/. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. .
PTAEGSW
Molon Lave
A new Greek restaurant is now serving Moscows discerning foodies and gourmands. The brainchild of Sovietproduced Greek Alexey Karolidis, Molon Lave serves
up the most authentic tzatziki, horiatiki, moussaka and
kolokithokeftedes that the capital has to offer. And its no
wonder, after all the head chef Stamatis Tsilias was invited
to Russia especially for this delicious project. Those who
really know their Greek specialties will be delighted to find
real, traditional retsina (white/ros resinated wine), as well
as other wines from Greece and further afield, Greek ouzo
and metaxa.QA-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 39, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 272 00 47. . AEGSW
Delicatessen
Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden
treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20, veer left
and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing
thank you for finding us. Down in this bustling basement
with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into
an array of the chefs favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate
puddings, homemade pasta and more - the menu is a
success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others
say its the nicoise salad.QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52,
www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
. PAEGW
International
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Deti Raika
Its hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to
the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with
a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and
journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki
or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and
the owners favourite film. The varied menu offers anything
from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some
tasty fish dishes. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PTAEW
Funny Cabany
The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive
barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from
homemade sausages and burgers, to succulent tender
steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non
meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous
portion sizes and if youre lucky, a visit from the resident
micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a
restaurant to miss out on.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5,
bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www.
funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and
Sat until last guest. . PTAEGW
Izia Grill
What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi, and Izia
Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the
trend. Its a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site
of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new dcor
is hardly revolutionary, the change in cuisine is striking.
Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get
a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions,
but usually have snack-sized price tags attached.QD-2,
Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 623 08
48, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. . PAEGSW
Kon-Tiki
The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in
Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than
a bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in
Moscow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit
of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and its island grill.
Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of
the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant is always buzzing with the music and
energy from Caribbean and Latino themed parties.QC-2,
Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 767 87 20, www.kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs.
. PTAEGSW
Reserve a Table
Have you ever wished you
could reserve a table at
popular Moscow restaurants
more easily and conveniently? Moscow In Your Pocket and
company Leclick have made the perfect solution for you.
You can now make restaurant reservations direct from our
website. Click on the blue Reserve a table button when
you open up a restaurant page for Moscow In Your Pocket
and quickly fill out the form. It only takes a few seconds
to click a couple of buttons and send the reservation
through. The booking system will then reserve the table
for you (if available) and send you confirmation of the reservation via an SMS text message in English!
Laffa Laffa
Laffa Laffa is the latest addition to Moscows burgeoning
gourmet street food scene. Two branches opened almost simultaneously in October 2014, and have quickly established
a reputation for elevating the humble shaurma wrap into
a culinary treat. The Middle-east themed cafes pride themselves on preparing fresh food fast - bread is cooked to order
and tender meat and fresh vegetables are always to hand.
As Moscow steadily falls in love with falafel, this is definitely
a spot worth checking out - and for vegetarians struggling
to find reliable options in a notoriously carnivorous city, this
is definitely a spot worth checking out for its impressive array of tasty meat-free dips as well as its veggie falafel dishes.
QB-2, Mal. Bronnaya 4, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 975 55
45. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . PAGW
Poekhali
A recent addition to Moscows growing list of chic eateries, Poekhali differentiates itself with an unpretentious yet
sophisticated vibe. The concept is in the name: lets go
and explore different areas of the world and their cuisines.
Middle-eastern, Scandinavian, Italian, Asian and traditional Russian motifs inspire the menu. The interior is modern
and eclectic but not kitschy, the lighting dimmed to create
a more intimate atmosphere.To avoid disappointment its
best to make a reservation, especially on weekend nights.
QC-1, Petrovka 30/7, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495
419 00 88, www.poexa.li. Open 11:00 - 24:00. .
31
Where to eat
Sky Lounge
Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you
can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic
seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance.
Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind
panorama. The menu lives up to the general experience,
filled as it is with well-crafted dishes that deftly cover a
wide range of cuisines. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will
see almost anywhere else.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor,
MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.
skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 01:00. . PAEGSW
Townhouse
A welcoming interior, unpretentious European chic and
a menu borrowing something from the cuisines of every
continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and
locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood is not to be
missed. The warm octopus salad is the most delightful
starter for any meal. An aprs lunch or dinner coffee/tea
can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down
lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library
in the upstairs area.QD-5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
. PTASW
Where to eat
Italian
Steak Houses
MoMo
Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia
in Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of
Italian food, offering many meat and fish dishes alongside the classic pizza and pasta, and a selection of French
and Italian vintage wines. Its business class clientele are
spread across three main rooms, the largest of which
resembles a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker chairs.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg.
2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.
momorest.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . PAG
SW
Osteria della Piazza Bianca
A relaxed Italian atmosphere combined with European
comfort makes the Osteria della Piazza Bianca a special
place in Moscow. The panoramic views and open kitchen
- where Italian chefs prepare your meal right in front of
you - create an inviting ambience. Choosing between the
various fresh Italian dishes can be hard enough, but luckily
the sommelier will be on hand in case you hesitate about
the wine.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya,
tel. +7 495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs.
PAVGW
Tarantino
Looking for an unpretentious place where its all about the
food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best
with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street
but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other
Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is
homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal
with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers theres an extensive mozzarella bar where you can
choose what youd like on your plate or in a doggy bag.
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PAEGW
GOODBEEF
This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their
meat fast and red. Theres no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet
mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it
arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and
overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices
are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be
sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The
business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2,
Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
. PAEGSW
Gastronomica-Fish
If you love fish, once you step off chaotic Leninsky prospekt and pass through the door of the cool, calming
Gastronomica, youll be glad you made the effort. This is
definitely one of the best fish restaurants in Moscow, with
a main menu featuring Chilean sea bass, turbot and sole,
as well as trout and salmon from closer to home. All of the
above can be cooked any number of ways, from baked
in a coal stove to steamed with wine - delicious! Theres
also a good range of seafood salads, soups, pastas and
risottos - we particularly liked the sterlet consomme - as
well as mouthwatering mussels to start. It is a bit of a
trek from the metro, so it may be wise to come by car.
In summer, take a seat on the terrace.QLeninsky pr. 57,
MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 641 11 43, www.
gastronomicafish.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 23:30. . PAVGSW
Ya vegetarianets I am a vegetarian
Bez myasa without meat
moscow.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Sunday Brunch
AZIMUT Moscow
Olympic Hotel
Looking for a brunch
place in Moscow? Look
no further! Azimut Moscow Olympic Hotel on
Olimpiyskiy Prospekt is
continuing this wonderful tradition throughout the winter. Every Sunday
guests can lounge around and socialize with family and friends while enjoying a late breakfast. The
menu changes every week so youll never get bored
of the selection of traditional Russian dishes at the
generous buffet table, which consists of cold starters
and salads, a caviar station with blini, a wide assortment of French and Spanish cheeses, meat and fish
dishes, delightful desserts and fresh fruit. The price of
the buffet also includes alcoholic and non-alcoholic
beverages. To get a 20% discount, book 72 hours in
advance!QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira,
tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com.
Sunday 12:30 - 16:00. Brunch 3,200Rbl and 2,600Rbl
in case of booking 72 hours in advance. Children till
6 years free of charge and children from 6 till 12
years receive 50% discount.
Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City
Ceilings decked with sail cloth that looks like its moving in
the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned with
paintings of maritime settings: youll certainly feel all at sea
- in a good way - when you step into this restaurant. This is
a perfect place to wind down after a long days shopping
with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid
out on a bed of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick and
choose. Exceptional service, an original and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine list are sure to impress
even the most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs.
QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66 km, 4th floor, MMyakino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www.portomaltese.ru. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . TNGW
Sirena
Ahoy there matey - welcome aboard Moscows most established seafood restaurant, serving wealthy Moscow diners
since 1992 and still maintaining a high reputation for flying
in some of the freshest fish available. The interior is very
much new Russian opulence, with a fish tank floor, a wood
paneled interior resembling a ships cabin and staff dressed
in naval outfits. Admire the days catches in the ice beds before the chef grills them up to perfection, or pick out a live
lobster for the pot. Sirenas menu also features a long list of
top quality European dishes made from fabulous crab, sturgeon and scallop and more, as well as fresh oysters.QD-1,
Bol. Spasskaya ul. 15, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 608
14 12, www.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/sirena/. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PAESW
February - March 2015
33
Nightlife
Nightlife
The original city that doesnt sleep, Moscow has everything
going on under those bright neon signs. Whether youre after
an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control
policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey
dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole
up til the wee small hours, you wont be disappointed.
leather sofas and bare brick walls certainly add the right
kind of understated atmosphere to those sophisticated
deal-breaking drinks. La Bottega also serves various
French and Italian snacks to accompany the wine.QA-1,
Lesnaya ul. 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30
88, www.labottega.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAGW
MyBar
This is not another elitny hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bars philosophy is to
create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are
looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff.
MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with
expats and local office workers looking for a post-work
drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscows glamour dominated nightlife scene.
The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix
of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to
dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights
with free concerts from rock and blues bands.QC-2, Ul.
Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916
583 52 79, www.mybar.su. Open 18:00 until 06:00.
PAEG
Krisis Zhanra
Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never
seems to get old or lose its appeal. Known for its popular
lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for
dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where
the crisis of genre comes in: this place changes its format
multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable
for its location.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open
11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 06:00. PENGW
Bars
Bar Is
On a rainy, cold night there is no better place to escape for a cozy warm evening with a friend or two. In a
dimmed basement setting with high stools and red walls
(closely resembling a hip joint somewhere in Brooklyn),
Bar Is serves up its new and refreshing version of classic
cocktails, an assortment of fine wines and spirits from all
corners of the world and a delectable menu of modern
European food. Very friendly staff, relaxed jazz and Frank
Sinatra softly playing in the background and surprisingly
decent prices all add to the pleasant atmosphere. With
a very central location, Bar Is makes for a perfect spot to
catch up with friends or enjoy the company of your special
someone.QB-2, Mal. Palashevsky per. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 10 45. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAW
La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe
Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of
the White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this
upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive, albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the
whole gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most
exclusive vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim
and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged
36 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Clubs
Club Garage
One of Moscows longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday
/ Sunday RnB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties.
Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah
menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed face control makes it a fun night
out for those who dont want to deal with the attitude of
Moscows glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from
the end of April until October.Q-4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Club Roxbury
In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, youll be amazed by the luxury
and scope, unlike any gentlemans club in Europe! Guests
sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most
beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJs, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and
sensory overload.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open
22:00 - 07:00. PAW
Coyote Ugly
Part of the international chain that inspired the film of the
same name, this is a bar where the girls rule the roost and
youd better beware, these are no mere go-go dancers, they
have attitude. Yes they can squeeze a lemon for your tequila
from their cleavage, but they also have plenty of personality. Girls are allowed to dance on the huge American style
bar, security make sure the men keep their hands in their
pockets and the soundtrack is danceable and fun rock and
pop. Happy hours bring in a mixed crowd and if its too loud
upstairs theres a friendly little bar hidden down in the basement.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 6/3, MKuznetsky most,
tel. (+7) 495 692 03 97, www.coyoteugly.ru. Open 19:00
- 06:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. PA
Tyomnoe Dark
Svetloe Light (for beer)
February - March 2015
37
Features
Bogdarnya
If you think you need a break from constant meetings,
traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and everything else that big city life entails regardless of the
season, then maybe its time to consider a little trip about
120km east of Moscow. There you will find Bogdarnya, a
beautiful and welcoming agricultural and tourist complex
that lets big city dwellers get back to nature, breathe
some fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism.
What to see
moscow.inyourpocket.com
The Kremlin
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Annunciation Cathedral
This imposing cathedral, where Russias Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482.
The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most
valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time
including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes
the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes
Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgins
robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople
(now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled
in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this
church notably has stained glass windows. Along with
some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption
The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption
Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable
for Napoleons horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with
the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing
over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they
caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the
last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
February - March 2015
39
What to see
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
What to see
worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces
of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a
stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated
with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one
direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes
above. Russias history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit
inside St Basils gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.
saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
Churches
and Monasteries
Kremlin Armoury
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nations
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are
the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely
glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on
them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.
Q-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49,
www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
office in Alexandrovsky sad.
Lenin Mausoleum
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. Theyll search your pockets to make sure
you dont sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you cant mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Spaso-Andronikov Monastery
Originally founded in 1320, this monastery is famous for its
icon painting monk, Andrei Rublyev who lived and died
here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is the poster boy of
Russian icon painting having worked on the icons of the
Kremlins Cathedral of Annunciation and other churches.
Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent
Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. Its about half the size
of Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds.QAndronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495
678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free.
Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
Hidden in a courtyard, this
museum maintains more
than 200 000 pieces of
decorative and folk art from
all over Russia. There are
several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and
figurines - the porcelain
from the post-revolutionary
Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some
traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse
and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays
interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments
of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also
available. The museums frequent temporary exhibitions are
also worth checking out.QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission
100 - 200Rbl. Children till 7 years old free entrance. NK
Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945
Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II
as it is known in the west,
this museum opened in
1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory.
The museum houses a set
of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor,
with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and
Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn
memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition
hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties
involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy,
tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Open
10:00 - 19:30. Thursday 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and
last Thu of the month. Admission 200 - 250Rbl. N
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
ride an icebreaker
41
What to see
Icons
What to see
Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art
Housed in the grounds of Andronikov Monastery, this museum is dedicated to the art of the Russian icon throughout the ages. Although none of the famed Rublyevs work
is here, the icons in the collection are still beautiful. Preservation is paramount for icons and many are still shining
brightly despite their age. Spread out over three floors of
the restored St. Michaels chapel, a ghostly feeling still inhabits the place.QAndronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad
Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru.
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00 Closed Wed and
last Fri of the month. Admission 350Rbl.
Tretyakov Gallery
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous Russian soul, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to
start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city
in 1892, it is the worlds number one museum of Russian
art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century
icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of
Russias favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is
a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes
of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are
labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size
laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden
amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include
the museums 20th Century collection, which is kept at a
separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per.
10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.
tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 250 - 400Rbl. PU
moscow.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
artistic places
Dostoevsky Memorial Museum
43
What to see
Parks and Gardens
Gorky Park
The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in
2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the
park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic
or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent
near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic
areas are scattered throughout and near the Andreyevsky
bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, theres
even an artificial beach. In addition to all that youll find
regular open-air concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga
classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and
the contemporary art space Garage CCC. Theres usually
something special happening every weekend, with many
events especially marketed at kids.QB-5, Krymsky Val 9,
MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.parkgorkogo.com. Open 24hrs. W
Izmailovsky Park
Izmailovo Park is one of the largest parks in Moscow, at
more than 300 hectares. The area was once located on the
estate of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, and was established as
a culture and recreation park in 1931. The many attractions
include the Round Pond with the man-made island, a memorial area, a Ferris wheel, sports and playgrounds, shooting galleries, cinemas, a skate park, Wi-Fi, and cosy cafes.
Various festivals, concerts, theatrical performance, exhibitions, folk festivals, dance parties, and fireworks displays
come to the park. Entrance to the park and all programs
is free - so have fun!QAlleya Bol. Kruga 7, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 61 19, www.izmailovsky-park.ru.
Open 24hrs. Admission free. L
What to see
State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe
This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is one
of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of
the city. The buildings themselves usually house historical
and contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the
winter its a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and theres also plenty of stall selling
hot drinks. The formal gardens, which offer excellent views
towards the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neoclassical sculptures, hidden summer pavilions, while the
forested area leading to the small river is lovely for a lazy
stroll.Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7)
498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon
- Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museum open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat and Sun and holidays10:00 - 17:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed
of the month. Admission park 150Rbl. Ticket for park and
museum 400 Rbl. For temporary exhibitions you need to
pay seperately. UNK
Tsaritsyno
Gogol House
Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in
the very centre of Moscow near Arbat Square,
with its stone arcades and
balconies, may seem like
your average merchants
mansion but there is a lot
more to it than meets the
eye. This house has a very
rich history dating back
to the early 17th century
and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers,
royal councilors, government officials, army generals
and even the members of the Tolstoy family.
However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited
this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol,
one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of
Russian literary realism and author of such classics as The
Nose, Viy, The Overcoat, The Government Inspector
and, of course, Dead Souls. Welcome to the Gogol House
Memorial Museum Science Library!
Although he had only spent the last four years of his life
here, this is the place where the writer worked on the
second volume of Dead Souls. It was here that he burnt
the manuscripts of the poem, and in this very house, on
February 21, 1852 that the writer died. The Gogol House
is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous
memories alive by combining a research library of over 250
000 volumes, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum.
The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol
occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogols
study was a special room where he could enjoy some
peace and quiet while he put his timeless words down on
paper.
The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where
the author entertained his guests. The Government Inspector room tells visitors about Russian theatre of the
1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogols Theatre and plays based
on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol
stayed when his health began to fade in 1852, purely because it was warmer than the other rooms.
Although special attention is given to the works of Gogol
and other material relating to his life, visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology,
art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The library
also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where anyone
from novices to professionals can browse through music
books and even have a go on the electric piano with special
headphones to better hear how they sound.
The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging
from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to
the works of Gogol and other prominent Russian authors.
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 58
81, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of
the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
,
Gogol
House
,
,
.
museum
..
Memorial
and
science
library
XVIII XIX .
, .
:
,
,
.
..
, 100
,
,
.
, ,
.
: ,
, ,
A duck, or a rabbit?
Theres a curiously
titled exhibition happening at the moment that is bound
to provide some food
for thought. A duck,
or a rabbit? - named
after the ambiguous
image in which a rabbit or a duck can be
seen - explores the
boundaries of perception among fans
of modern art and
seeks to answer a highly debated question: who
has more influence on making sense of the symbols
- the artist or the audience? The exhibition features
several prominent Russian artists to put this to the
test. Protey Temens Visual Karaoke installation
invites the viewers to become co-authors, while
Zhenyas Mironovs photo series Building Metaphors instantly beckons visitors to search for a visual rhythm within simple forms. So is it a duck or a
rabbit? You decide. The exhibition is open till March
15. Admission free.
February - March 2015
45
Hidden museums
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Hidden museums
most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic
beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory long after leaving.
Even if you arent a fan of stuffed animals and taxidermy,
the Darwin Museum is still an interesting place to check
out. It consists of three floors that fit into the theme of evolution. The first floor touches on the history of the Darwin
Museum and biological diversity. Although there are few
signs in English, the exhibitions are fairly straight-forward.
The first floor also showcases many of the worlds ecosystems and recreations of some extinct animals. The next two
floors deal with micro- and macroevolution, zoogeography
and the development of scientific thought. There are hundreds of stuffed animals set up in their natural habitat as
well as an interesting look at how humans evolved.
A slightly different kind of history, the Vodka History Museum (located inside the Izmailovo Kremlin) gives you the
detailed and fun history of vodka in Russia and tells you
about the role it plays in Russian society. The museum only
has one floor, and its not very big but you should still expect to spend about an hour and a half looking around.
You will learn that it has changed the course of history in
Russia on more than one occasion. The museum boasts
700 different small exhibits and the collection of different
vodka brands is quite impressive, plus with the regular tour
a complimentary shot is of course included! After the tour
you can also arrange to attend a vodka tasting session and
buy your favorite brands. All information and signs are in
Russian and English.
Thought provoking and contemplative, the Sakharov
Center should be on the list for those interested in the life
of Sakharov, Russias Nobel Peace Prize winning physicist
and human rights campaigner. The upstairs museum room
hosts five informative displays discussing the establishment of the Soviet regime, the beginning of dissent, the
repercussions, the results (GULAG) and the aftermath. The
displays are mainly photographic but there is some installation. While all information is original and therefore in
Russian, the museum provides extensive descriptions for
each display in English as well as an additional guidebook.
Downstairs is a library and reading room.
And last but by no means least, something slightly quirky:
the Lights of Moscow Museum - a museum about
street lamps! Sounds dull? Not when you are controlling
the lighting effects yourself! This small and eccentric little
place devoted to the history of Moscow street lighting is
as interactive as it is unusual. Using the nifty little remote
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
control, you can see first hand just why people complained
about the first gas lamps, saying the moon shone brighter,
and experience how the discovery of the electric lamp was
such a world changing event. Theres also a big collection of
clocks in the end of the exhibition, which amounts to only
four rooms in all.
Go out, explore and enjoy!
Chekhov Museum
QB-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 6, MBarrikadnaya,
tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last day of the
month. Admission 50 - 150Rbl. Fourth Fri of the month
entrance free. N
Darwin Museum
QUl. Vavilova 57, MAkademicheskaya, tel. (+7) 499
783 22 53, www.darwin.museum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the
month. Admission 100 - 300Rbl. PUK
Gorky Memorial Museum
QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed
Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. N
Institute of Russian Realist Art
QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276
12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
Lights of Moscow
QD-2, Armyansky per. 3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 624 73 74, www.moscowlights.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 30 - 70Rbl. N
Nikolay Roerich Museum
QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl. N
Sakharov enter
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
623 44 01, www.sakharov-center.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
The Central Museum of Musical Culture
QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495
739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 - 250Rbl.
Children till 6 years old free. TNKW
The Gogol House
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695
92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Mon, Wed and Fri 12:00
- 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed on Tue and last working day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. NW
Vodka History Museum
QIzmailovskoe shosse 73 G, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7)
499 166 50 97, www.vodkamuseum.ru. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Admisson 100 - 180Rbl. Guided tours 240 300Rbl depending on amount of people. Excursion in
English should be booked in advance. AK
February - March 2015
47
Where to stay
Where to stay
5 stars
Ararat Park Hyatt
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
Hotel Savoy Moscow
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
(Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).
48 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Hostels
Comrade Hostel
QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor, MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 600Rbl).
Godzillas
QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room
prices start at 864Rbl).
iVan Hostel
QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).
4 stars
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,100Rbl).
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,500Rbl).
Best Western Plus Vega Hotel
& Convention Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,600Rbl).
3 stars
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven
working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel
is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you
make sure you complain the registrations is their responsibility, not yours!
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
49
Where to stay
Ask the Concierge
Please tell us something
about yourself. My name
is Gleb Kryuchkov, and I
am 28 years old. I am the
Chief Concierge at Four
Seasons Hotel Moscow.
I was born in Moscow,
since childhood, I was interested and influenced
in history, and foreign
languages, and I was very
communicative and amicable. When I turned 17, I got
into college in the sphere of Hospitality Industry in
Tsaritsyno. At the same time, I worked at the Marriott
Renaissance Olympic Hotel as a bellman. Before I became a concierge, I gained experience in other positions, which were as a night-auditor, front desk clerk,
and as a marketing coordinator. In the year 2009, I finally reached the position as a concierge at the Marriott Grand Hotel. After 5 years, I had received a job offer
at the InterContinental as the Chief Concierge. A year
and a half past and I joined the family of Four Seasons
Hotels and Resorts as a Chief Concierge.
Can you tell us something about Four Seasons Hotel Moscow? It has just been opened. What makes it
special? What do you like best about this hotel? We
opened our hotel on the 25th of October 2014. We are
located right in the heart of the city, in the historical
building built by Alexander Shusev, the legendary Hotel Moskva. We say in our hotel, History meets luxury.
Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts is a well-known
brand consisting of 95 hotels around the globe. Our
hotels are located in different unique locations, with a
unique service, and with a unique historical and cultural background. Our Hotel Vision is what makes us
special: We will be the friendliest hotel in town. What
inspires me the most is the spectacular view from our
rooms. That is what I like best about this hotel.
Shopping
What can you tell us about your favorite places in
Moscow? To be frank, it is hard to point out one or two
specific locations. Because Moscow is a huge metropolitan city, and there are a few streets, which I really
love, such as Leninsky Prospekt, Kutuzovsky Prospekt,
the Garden Ring Road, but what steals my heart is
the site at the Patriarshy Ponds. This area has a lot of
energy, and has a romantic and mystical view. Beside
the fact that this area is located at the city center, you
could find yourself escaping the noisy traffic if the city.
Moscow has changed a lot over the last years, what
do you like best about this? What I have noticed
is that, Moscow is transforming itself more tourist
friendly. How? By putting up different signs, billboards, advertising different products, tourist centers
etc. in English. Moscows memorable sites like, VDNH,
Park Gorgovo, and Sokolniki, now renovated, people
see these places with a different view. There has been
a major addition to the Moscows Metro, where the
names of the stations are in English as well; directions
have been painted/posted to make it easier for travelers; and new trains, where the map of the Moscow
metro now displays the route digitally on the screens
in the train, in English.
What hidden gem in Moscow can you recommend to
our readers? There is a place in Moscow, and few have
heard of it. It is the homestead of Russias very own
Father Frost (in Russia called as Ded Moroz). This site
is such a wonderful, memorable, and unique place for
everyone, especially children! One can engage in so
many activities in this magical winter village. There is
an ice rink where many dance festivals are organized.
This is a very good opportunity to spend time together as a family, where you could take ice-skates on rent
and spend an hour on the rink. Ded Morozs granddaughter, Snegurochka, has her home for all to visit.
In her home, children can engage in coloring, baking,
knitting, and create a little souvenir that they could
take along with them.
Russian gifts
This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything
you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite
jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl.
Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984
71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. ALK
Shaltai - Boltay
The name means Humpty Dumpty, but dont let the quaint
fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh,
the shop features all manner of designer and handmade
goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary
rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more
for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the
body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78
50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AL
Markets
Danilovsky
QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Dorogomilovsky
QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249
55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N
Leningradsky Rynok
QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71.
Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N
Vernisazh in Izmailovo
QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Shopping Centres
Atrium
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Evropeysky Shopping Centre
Q-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495
921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. AK
GUM
Q-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
Prosto Tak
They say their shop doesnt sell only gifts, but by the look
of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with
these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and
toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They
also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and
bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499
755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
50 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
51
Shopping
Art salon on
starosadsky
This small gift shop is a veritable
Aladdins cave of semi-precious
stones, minerals and amber
handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative
items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take
away an unique little piece of
Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled
with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate,
jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious
stones. For something even more exotic theyre also selling
fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines
in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition theres a large
selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer
boxes, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists
Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky
per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.
art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
RUSSIAN Souvenirs
Platok
A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical
and beautiful present for any female friend or relative.
These patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors
and can be worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a winter outfit. Russian women of all ages
wear the scarves around the neck, over the shoulders,
often as an outer layer over a coat, or around the head,
for an adorable babushka look. Another great gift idea is
an orenburgsky platok, which is an over-size scarf/shawl
spun from mohair yarn.
Shapka ushanka
If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible
during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back
home, then of course youll need to get a Russian fur hat
with ear flaps, called a shapka ushanka. Anything with
red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-thetourist points.
Valenki
Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially
designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki
are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. Made
from sheeps wool, valenki are said to be so warm and
well insulated that you can wear them without socks. In
fact wearing them without socks is preferred, since the
rough wool is said to exfoliate your skin as you walk.
52 Moscow In Your Pocket
Business directory
Lotte Plaza
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 641
25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. LKW
Metropolis shopping center
QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Novinsky
QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797
62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Okhotny Ryad
Q-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
Tsvetnoy Central Market
QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW
Bookshops
Bookshop Moskva
QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Business-Centre Bookbridge
QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00.
Dom Inostrannoy Knigi
Q-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Respublika
QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open
24hrs. AKW
Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus
QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel.
(+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW
Supermarkets
Bakhetle
Q-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A
Gum Gastronom 1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK
Hediard
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open
08:00 - 23:00.
Yeliseevsky
Q-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650
46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A
Accountants
and Consultants
Awara
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services
QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.
Deloitte
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
LowLands
QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru.
Mega-Intel
Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00.
PricewaterhouseCoopers
QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val.
10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.
SHR Consulting
QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel.
(+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.
The Lighthouse Group
QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business associations
Association of European Businesses
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@
aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru.
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce
Q-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Exhibition and
conference centres
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs)
QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544
34 00, www.vvcentre.ru.
Central exhibition hall Manezh
QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums.
info/M419.
Crocus Expo (International Exhibition
Centre)
Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino,
tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru.
Expocentre
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00.
Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7)
495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre
(KVTS Sokolniki)
Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7)
495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00.
World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC)
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.
Recruitment
Antal Russia
QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com.
G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive
search
QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru.
February - March 2015
53
International Womens
Club OF MOSCOW
Its winter in Moscow
and whether youre
new to the city or
have been living here
for a while, if youre
dreading the cold and
short days, why not
get out and socialize?
No need to spend
the white season by
yourself! The International Womens Club of Moscow
has a busy schedule: great company, useful advice,
and interesting pastimes to get you through the grey
and freezing. Pop by one of their Coffee Mornings and
check out their website www.iwcmoscow.ru to see
what IWC has to offer! And also keep an eye open for
their upcoming big event in March: the Embassies of
the World Dinner & Ball!
54 Moscow In Your Pocket
International Schools
Atlantic International School
QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499
745 62 61.
QSkolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968
651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru.
British International School
QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com.
Little Angels
QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru.
Montessori School
QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A
Ptit Cref
QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com.
The Anglo-American School of Moscow
QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88,
www.aas.ru.
The International School of Moscow
QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499
922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Expat Contacts
AIESEC
Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org.
American Womens Organisation
Qwww.awomoscow.org.
Associazione Signore Italiane a Mosca
(Italian Womens Club)
Qasi.mosca@hotmail.com
Australian and New Zealand Social
Group (AUSKI)
Qwww.gdaymoscow.com.
British Womens Club
Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk.
English Language Evenings (ELE)
Qwww.ELEMoscow.net.
Expat Football League
Qwww.moscowfootball.com.
EXPATinRUSSIA
Qwww.expatinrussia.com.
International Womens Club
Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru.
InterNations
Qwww.internations.org.
Moscou Accueil (French Womens Club)
Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org.
Moscow Hash House Harriers
Qwww.moscowh3.com.
Moscow International Choir
Qwww.moscow-international-choir.com.
MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter)
Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com.
Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen)
Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub.
Rotary Club Moscow International
Qwww.rcmi.ru.
SWEA (Swedish Womens Educational
Association)
Qwww.swea.org/moskva.
55
Russian hospitality
If you are ever invited to a Russians house for dinner,
this is most certainly an opportunity you cannot refuse! Consider it an honour and you will experience
overwhelming hospitality. Expect to be there for the
entire evening, and preferably dont schedule anything for early the following morning. Russians dont
invite people over for a quick cup of tea & biscuits;
they go the full distance and pull out all the stops for
guests.
Charities
Moscow Choral Synagogue
57
St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg
Russias capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes its worth escaping for
a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Greats
Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are
looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with
history and beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, theres more than
enough to enjoy at any time of year.
sightseeing
getting there
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 66), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
Sapsan) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscows main airports and St.
Petersburgs Pulkovo airport.
Luxury Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, its worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:53.
For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online
at www.megapolis-te.ru
HOTELS
Angleterre Hotel
QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
hhhhh
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20
01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
St. Petersburg
QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183
rooms. hhhhh
Grand Hotel Europe
QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
Hotel Astoria
QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197
rooms. hhhhh
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh
shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08,
www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AKW
GALERIA QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
ALK
Nevsky Centre
QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57,
www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00. AK
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
59
Murmansk
Murmansk
Language
While Russian is the language of everyday use, Saami can
also be found. Its relatively rarely spoken, but frequently
found on maps of the region, echoing faintly through
place-names Lovozero is also known as Lujavr, with
javr being a Finno-ugric counterpart for the Russian
ozero, or lake. Tirvas, a Saami greeting, is a popular name
for hotels and guest-houses, ski complexes adopt Finnish
names, tortuously rendered into baffling blocks of Cyrillic
text Kukisvumchorr is perhaps the regions biggest
but those Saami slopes are reached by driving through
the stolidly Soviet town of Kirovsk, the setting for several
scenes in Leviathan and turning left at the end of Prospekt Lenina.
Where to stay
In the land of the
reindeer: Russia beyond
the Arctic
Murmansk Region, part of Russias Arctic North, has been
back in the headlines after Andrei Zvyagintsevs Golden
Globe winner Leviathan was filmed there in the remote
coastal village of Teriberka and the lakeside city of Kirovsk.
But this wild land of stark beauty has a rich history, steeped
in the traditions of the native Saami people, and this is celebrated in Marchs Festival of the North when the reindeer
herders descend on the remote settlement of Lovozero to
race their sledges across the snowy wastes and celebrate
the beginning of the spring as the sun gleams off a pristine
white landscape.
The festival is a colourful event with reindeer racing at its
heart. As the competition gets underway, a cloud of snow
emerges from the far horizon. As it gets closer, the spectators respond with whoops, yodels and roars of encouragement. From a blur of motion four reindeer emerge, prodded into hauling their sledge faster and faster. Bells tinkle
as the finish line nears. The flag drops, and the drivers time
is announced, prompting discussions among the crowd.
The driver, resplendent in thigh-length reindeer-skin boots,
dismounts and waits to see what his rivals can do while the
animals rest at last, tongues lolling as their breath steams
into the Arctic air.
Lovozero is the heart of Russian Lapland. In this small community roughly 200 km south of Murmansk, the population of 2,800 treats the reindeer as a badge of identity. It
prances from the sign on the main road, it stands proud
on the village crest. Business cards introduce their owners
as an Olenovod reindeer driver. Fashions include jackets
and boots with reindeer motifs, reindeer skins are used for
both clothing and to insulate homes, while antlers serve
as decoration, storage racks or are carved into jewelry and
ornaments. A stall selling reindeer meat as prime cuts,
sausage or tinned, stewed tushyonka does a lively trade.
60 Moscow In Your Pocket
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Getting There
Getting to the heart of Russian Lapland isnt easy it lies
right on the geographical centre of the Kola Peninsula,
far from regions main cities. The two nearest airports
serving Moscow are Murmansk (regular daily flights,
flight time 3 hour) and Apatity (two flights a week with
Severstal Avia), both of which are about 200km from
the settlement itself. A taxi ride will run somewhere in
the region of 3,000Rbl.
Of the two access points, Murmansk is perhaps the
more attractive. Maritime buffs will enjoy a tour of
the Lenin, the worlds first nuclear-powered icebreaker, now a museum in the harbour. The Alyosha
monument, towering over the city, is a popular landmark commemorating the sailors who served here
during the war when Murmansk was a vital port
handling supplies coming in on the Arctic Convoys.
The town also has some surprisingly good restaurants, with service and prices rather more attractive
than most Moscow options. Theres gentle downhill
skiing on offer at the Ogni Murmansk complex on
the edge of town, and decent accommodation is
also available here.
Apatity and nearby Kirovsk are both industrial towns
built around mining with few obvious attractions. There
are skiing and hiking options in the Khibiny hills some
of which attract families from Moscow during the season if the Friday morning flight to Apatity is anything
to go by and a quirky ice village on the outskirts of
Kirovsk but a lot of local hotel accommodation is firmly
rooted in the Soviet era.
February - March 2015
61
11
BASM
AN
KALAN
CHEVSK
AYA U
L.
OR
LIK
OV
23
KOL
PAC
HNY
PE
R.
PER.
YAUZS
KY BUL.
POKRO
VSKY B
UL.
7
ARKH
ANG
ELS
KY
PE
R.
SV
ER
CH
K
6 OV
PE
R.
M
YA
SN
ITS
KA
YA
5
UL
.
R.
10
PEV
CHE
SKY
PE
KITAYGO
RODSKY
PER.
UST
YIN
SKY
PR.
MANEZ
HNAYA
UL.
PE
R.
SA
KH
AR
OV
AP
R.
47
UL
AN
SK
YP
ER
.
AK
AD 7
41 EM
IKA
35
35
MILYUTINSKY PER.
UL. MAL. LU
BYANKA
(1Y)
BO
2 L. SPAS
SKA
4 YA UL
.
KOPTELSKY PE
R.
KOSTYANS
KY PER.
SRETENKA UL.
TRUB
NAYA
UL.
UL
.
13
MOH
OVAY
A UL.
VO
LH
ON
KA
UL
.
NS
KY
PER
.
R.
OK
HO
TN
YR
YA
D
TS
KY
PE
R.
NI
KI
GA
ZE
TN
YP
ER
.
R.
ROM
ANO
V PE
1
1
MA
L. Z
NA
ME
BOLSHOY
3
16
NIK
OL
OYA 11
MSK - March 2015
February
AY
A
12 UL.
65
26
52
BOL
. ZN
AME
NSK
Y PE
50
41
33
BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER.
FILIPPOVSK
Y PER.
29
GOGOLEVSK
Y BUL.
5
11
AB.
KAYA N
NICHES
YA
BR
SERE
NAB.
OVSKAYA
BERNIK
2
Z
YAU
15
OLE
VO P
NTSO 8
VORO
4
Y PER.
STAROKONYUSHENN
R.
CHKALOVS
VERK
HNY
AYA
46
NY PE
PODKOLOKOL
12
DU
RAS
OV
SKY
PER
.
SKY PER.
NI
KO
L
4 SKAY
AU
L.
BO
L.
BR
ON
NA
TVE 17
YA
RSK
UL
OY 23
.
BUL
.
20
TVE
RSK
OY
BUL
L
.
10 EON
M
AL
TIE
VOZ
.G
VS
NES
N
KY
EZ
ENS
P
DN
KY P
ER 19
ER.
IKO
.
VS
2
KY
PE
7
BR
R.
YU
22
SO
V
6 PER
.
BO
L.P
AT
RIA
RS
HY
PE
R.
17
SADO
VAYA
-KUD
9
RINS
3
KAYA
UL.
VSPOLN
21
Y PER.
BOL
. LU
BYA
NKA
UL.
UL
.
CH
AY
AN
OV
A
UL
.G
AS
HE
KA
BO
L. S
AD 3
OV
AY
A
10 UL.
13
ZO
OL
OG
ICH
ESK 20
AY
AU
L.
28
ER 5
M
OLA 9
EVSK
BO
L.
RZ
HE
VSK
Y PER
. M
AL.
RZH
EVS
KY P
ER.
KUR
VOK
33
R.
24
TRUBNIKOVS
KY PE
18
22
UL.
23
VAL
ANOY
ZEMLY
KURSKAYA
28
NOVINSKY BUL.
11
.
ER
ER.
YP
IN P
SK
LYAL
EN
OS
DS
PO
BOL.
KISLO
VSKY
PER.
VA
SIL
YE
VS
KA
UL
YA
.Y
UL
UL
IU
.
SA
FU
CH
IKA
BO
L. G
RU
ZIN
SKA
YA
UL
.
39
22
18
O
TS
OL
EK 4
VO 1
DO
SA
5
Y PER.
AZENN
BOL. K
11
RAU
SHSK
AYA
NAB
.
16
SAD
OVN
ICH
18 ESKAY 13
AU
18
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
6
KA
Z
14
10
18
10
36
G UL
BALCHU
moscow.inyourpocket.com
AB.
KAYA N
SOFIYS30
.
UL
2
L. 8
AU 4
VK
O
KR
PO
13
MOS
KVOR
ETSK
AYA N
AB.
BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST
AB.
AYA N
LEVSK
KREM
15 AS
AB
AY
AR OR
T
S
14 O
ER.
YP
EN
22
ARM
Z
A
K
6
KA
AN
LY
SO
BOROVITSKAYA
13
VARVARKA UL.
VASILYEVSKY
SPUSK PL.
STAROSADSKY PER.
KITAY GOROD
15
NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL.
7 KY
S
OV
KHL
O
H
K
3
2
SQ
UA
RE
)
L.
AP
AY
AR
ST
9 L.
U
KA 10
ILIN
6
32
21
.
PER
NY
11
KITAY GOROD
12
9 .
R
PE
SKY 12
HEV
ISHC
GLIN
3 . SPASO
6
L
BO
23
BIBLIOTEKA
IMENI LENINA
(R
ED
NS
KY
PE
R.
37
L
KA U
ROV
4
POK
2
15
MAROSEYKA UL.
.
6
PER
SKY
YEV
IPAT
ER.
KY P
OLS 6
NIK
4
3
.
ER
YP
BN
RY
KR
AS
NA
YA
PL
.
VE
TO
SH
NY
PE
R.
YA
VA
NO
OKHOTNY
RYAD
BO
GO
YA
VL
E
.
PER
KY
ASS 6
ERK
CH
PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII
R.
PE
LUBYANKA
L.
BO
4
TEATRALNAYA
R.
Y PE
VSK
NYE
O
T
3
I
4
R
1 HA
2
.K
15 R.
BOL
E
YP
12
NN
MA
11
R
FU
L.
AU
V
O
HK
S
A
3
M
14
.
PER
SKY
TIN
US
1 LATO
L. Z
13
BO
2
ZD
11 ROE
YP
SK
AN
.
BY
PL
LU
LUBYANKA
DA
BO
SLO
YA
NA
D
O
OR
OG
32
KY
NS
YA
M
AR
2
EZD
Y PRO
RALN
TEAT
4
R.
PE
SRETENSKY
BULVAR
NOVORYAZANSKAYA UL.
4
KRASNYE
VOROTA
BO
GU .
BR
OV
PSEYRA
TN
P
8 ER. CHISTYE PRUDY
IKO
VP
ER
2
.
CH
IST
OP
RU
DN
YB
UL
3
.
R
.
PE
Y
N
EN 2
L
O 1
K
O
IV
3
KR
4
3
8
3
6
2
PUSHECHNAYA
UL.
5
SA
D
18 OVA
YA
-SP
AS
SK
AY
AU
L.
.
5 SKY PER
V
PO
TA
PO
8
KUZNETSKY MOST
KAZANSKY VOKZAL
L.
AU
IN
LYG
AP
.
CH
UL
O
OG
SK
OV
UK
ZH
UL.
KOMSOMOLSKAYA PL.
R.
Y PE
VSK 10
ZLO
. KO
BOL
4
R.
PE
SKY
YEV
ON
RIT
HA
L. K
MA
1
KUZNET 9
SKY MO
ST
KOMSOMOLSKAYA
.
UL
AY
SK
NIT
S
0
A
MY 4
3
VARSONOF
YEVSKY PE
2
R.
6
12
SK
AY
AU
L.
NA
UD
PR
O
N
AS
KR
YAROSLAVSKY
VOKZAL
10
10
L.
3
OST U
YM
TSK
NE
Z
KU 4
ROZHDESTVENKA UL.
UL.
NEGLINNAYA
KON
YUSH
KOV
SKAY
A UL
RA
PROSPEKT MI
UL.
GILYAROVSKOGO
SHCHEPKINA UL.
MESHCHANSKAYA UL.
A UL
NAY
TRUB
BUL.
TSVETNOY
16
UL.
VKA
RO
PET
TURGENEVSKAYA
11
BOL. KISE
LNY PER.
14
UL.
5
3
19
16
24
19
11
ZN 10
AM
EN
KA
U
13 L.
32
28
4
30
PER.
VRAZHEK
SIVTSEV
22
14
39
21
25
.
UL
18
48
.
PER
KOV
TNI
PLO
SMOLENSKAYA
Y
SK
EV
GI
OR
E
G
UL
.
ALEXANDROVSKY
SAD
16
RAKHM
ANOVSK
Y PER.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
ARBATSKAYA
AT
28 ARB
38
11
24
.
PER
SKY
NIT
A
M
KAR
VOZDVIZH
ENKA
ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.
20
.
UL
L.
AYA U
ORSK
POZIT
KOM
25
BO
L. N
IKI 6
TSK
AYA
10
OCHNY PER.
ROT
8
21
25
23
22
R.
PE
BOL. MOLCH
ANOVKA UL.
KH
L EB 8
NY
PE
R.
14
PER. PECHATNIKOV
TRUBNAYA
SELIVERSTOV
PER.
MAL. G
OLOVIN
PER.
PROS
VIRIN
PER.
LUKO
V PER
.
ASHC
HEU
LOV
PER.
RYBNIK
OV PER
1
SRETENSKY BUL. .
PER.
BOL. SERGIEVSKY
KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.
.
ER
YP
SK
ER
G
R
ME
KA 12
19
12
15
12
26 OVKA
TR
MI
L. D
BO
23
28
POSLEDNY PER.
BOL. GOLOVIN PER.
PUSHKAREV PER.
LENINGRADSKY
VOKZAL
2 DOK
UC
HA 13
E
10 V PE
R.
SKO
RN
YA
ZH
NY
PE
R.
BO
L. S
UK
HA
REV
K
10 AYA P
L.
SUKHAREVSKAYA
DAEV PER.
EMaps
28
UL.
BOL. SPASSKAYA
SRETENSK
Y TUPIK
13
BOL. BALKANSKY PER.
GROKHOLSKY PER.
12
.
PER
OV
NIK
ESH
L
O
ST
.
UL
32
A
AY
SK
ER
12 TV
36
SKA
TER
TNY
PER
.
UL
.
Y
SK
OV
TR
PE
16
MAL
. NIK 16
ITSK
AYA
UL.
13
BOL. N
IKITSKA
YA UL.
.
PER
NY
ASH
KAL
L.
Y BU
ITSK
ER.
NIK
KY P
OVS
YAK
RZL
ME
4
PO 6
VA
RS
KA
YA
35
R.
12
GRA
NAT
NY P
E
20
12
19
UL.
22
48
PETR
OVSK
Y BUL
MAL. SU 3
1
KHAREV
SKAYA PL
.
1-Y KOLOBO
VSKY PER
20
I
SP
17
TSVETNOY
BULVAR
UL.
27
19
A
NAY
RON
L. B
MA
PRESNENSKAYA
36
.
UL
KA
OV
ON
ID
IR
SP
BARRIKADNAYA
R.
PE
NY
UD
PR
KH
YO
TR
R.
PE
KY
INS
IKH
OZ
L. K
BO
.
ER
YP
24
PER.
28
L.
AU
IN
AS
KR
TROITSKAYA UL.
7
SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.
TNY
KARE
BOL.
VKA
ITRO
. DM
MAL
.
PER
SKY
OV
5
EN
M
KY PER.
PI
USPENS10
MAYAKOVSKAYA
RO
.
A
R
PE
4
ST
RNY
YA
TV
GT
ER
DE
SK
AY
.
A
UL
PER
L.
.
SKY
BU
12 NOY
YIN
T
AS
S
T
A
S
STR
NA
L.
AP
AY
SK
.
N
PUSHKINSKAYA
I
R
K
PE
SH
Y
PU CHEKHOVSKAYA
Y PE
INSK
SK R.
ZIKH
R.
O
V
K
PE
L.
HE
R.
KY
AS
TVERSKAYA
MA
PE
ITS
AL
KY
OZ
S
.P
K
L
TIN
BO
SY
.
ER
P
KY
VS
YE
ON
RID
TRIUMFALNAYA PL.
2
3
R.
LIKHOV PE
D
YA
YR
TN
RE
. KA
UL
MAYAKOVSKAYA
19
27
1-Y
VOL
KONSK
Y PER.
PER.
UL
.
PROSPEKT MIRA
LAVRSKY PER.
L
9
DE 1
43
UL.
YA
E KOLTSO
NA
SADOVO
RET
SADOVAYA-KA
20
12
.
L.
PER
YA U
INY
LNA
ZHE
MFA
IU
R
ORU
YA-T
OVA
SAD
MAL. KARETNY PER.
52
.
UL
5 AYA
K
S
AT
EG
26
Y PR.
PIYSK
OLYM
VA
UL
.
L.
AU
IN
AS
KR
PER.
4-Y
AT
VE
RS
KA
YA
-YA
M
SK
AY
A
DUR
OVA
UL
24
A UL.
OCHNAY
SAMOTY
12
FA
DE
E
UL
AYA
VSK
UKO
GOR
DOL
23
BELORUSSKAYA
ZAL
3-Y
A
TV
NE
2-Y
ER
VS
KO
SK
1-Y A TV
GO
AY
A
E
R
A
TV
UL
-YA
1-Y
ER SKA
.
M
AB
YA
SK
SK
-YA
AY
RE
2-Y
A
AYA
ST
M
AB
Y
SK
AM SKA
UL
RE
AY
.
Y
SK
ST
AU
AY A U
SK
L.
AY
A U L.
AU
L.
L.
BELORUSSKAYA
XA
ND
RA
1-Y SA
MOTE
CHNY
PER.
L.
AU
KAY
ARS
L ET
PRO
SNO
KRA
AL
E
C
20
MI
US
SK
AY
AP
L.
LE
SN
AY
A
PR
.
NOVOSLOBODSKAYA
VASNETSOVA
UL
.
Maps
40
GR
AD
SK
Y
RK
HN
YA
YA
KR
AS
NO
SE
L
63
33
PER.
KO
YAUZS
KY BUL.
POKRO
VSKY B
UL.
R.
PEV
CHE
SKY
PE
KITAYGO
RODSKY
PER.
10
SADOVOE KOLTSO
UST
YIN
SKY
PR.
22
NA
RO
SA
DN
DO
AYA
VO
UL. 50
EK
OL
TS
O
M
SK
AY
AU
L.
NI
ZH
NA
YA
KR
AS
NO
KH
OL
PAVELETSKY
VOKZAL
13
18
.
PER
5
.
PER
KY
ITS
UL.
67
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
PAVELETSKAYA
2
LYUSIN
OVSK
AYA U
L
KY
ASS
OSP
NOV 9
18
17
NOVOSPASSKY KRUT
3-Y
MOST
B.
NA
YA
KA
ITS
UT
KR
DUBININSKAYA UL.
PRO
EZD
MAL.PO
LYANKA
UL.
26
. YAK
IMA
NKA 24
29
25 UL.
32
BOL
39
43
PYATNITS
KAYA
18
1
YAK
IMA
NSK
Y
R.
KUR
SOV
OY P
E
15
BU
TIK
OV
SKY
PE
R.
BO
LO
TN
YA
AY
1-Y
KIM
AN 5
GO
AB
4 ANS
LU
.
TV
K
A
I
YA
3 NSKY
NA
PE
B
.
R.
22
KAZAN
SKY PE
R.
71
NA
B.
PR
EC
HIS
TE 45
NS
KA
YA
42
19
13
11
MAR
O
3 NOVSKY
PER.
6
14
SA
DO
VN
ICH
22
ES
KY
PR
OE
ZD
VO
LH
ON
KA
UL
.
NS
KY
PER
.
MA
L. Z
NA
ME
R.
BOL
. ZN
AME
NSK
Y PE
15
OS
TO
ZH
EN
K
17 A U
L.
25
BERSENEV
SKAYA NA
B.
12
27
37
MANEZ
HNAYA
UL.
MOH
OVAY
A UL.
41
33
BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER.
FILIPPOVSK
Y PER.
29
GOGOLEVSK
Y BUL.
Y PER.
STAROKONYUSHENN
BOL. V
LASYE
VSKY
PER.
OK
H
13
ROM
ANO
V PE
R.
BOL.
KISLO
VSKY
PER.
R.
TRUBNIKOVS
KY PE
NOVINSKY BUL.
27
23
KO
BO
L.
RZ
HE
VSK
Y PER
. M
AL.
RZH
E
49
TAG
AN
42
19
PU
SH
KIN
SKA
YA
NA
B.
82
.
NAB
AYA
VSK
RKO
OZE
BOLSHOY
KRASNOKHOLMSKY
MOST
KOZ
HE 7
6 VNICH
ESK
AY
16 A UL.
Z
SOL
MARKSISTSKAYA
53
3
DRA
XAN
ALE 4
YA
KA 14
TS
SIS
15 YA UL. 18
RK
KA
MA 4
OVS
NTS
7 VORO
6
9
IKI
HCH
ENS
KAM 6
7
SHIE
BOL
UL.
40
MARKSISTSKAYA
TAGANSKAYA
R.
AB.
AYA N
HARN
GONC
48
33
38
71
75
4
FR
UN
ZEN
SKA
YA
NA
B.
35
UL.
AYA
23 HARN
NC
GO 26
10
9
4
ER.
KY P
HES
LNIC
E
T
KO
Y PE
ARN
NCH
GO
2-Y
34
ER
RIV
UL.
ESKAY
VNICH
SADO
71
66
5-Y
32
73
RK
HN
YA
YA
RA
DI
SH
CH 15
EV
SK
AY
AU
L.
72
19
65
VE
25
13
52
UL.
50
AYA
ZSK
YAU
10
46
HIKH
A UL. 20
33
28
12
OW
SC
MO
55
7
L.
YA U
RSKA
TATA14
30
39
.
14
13 15 SKY PER.
CHENOV
BOL. STRO 2
1
33
18
11
29
.
L
YA U
TSKA
31 OKUZNE6
3
NOV
17
17
IKOVSKY PER.
3-Y MONETCH
UL
INA
21 KHRUSH
BA
20
54
11
NIK
OLO
YAM 11
SKA
YA
12 UL.
3
PAVELETSKAYA PL.
3
16
SH
LYU
ZO
VAY
AN
AB
.
PAVELETSKAYA
18
UL.
VALOVAYA
B.
17 B.
NA
NA
YA
YA
SKA
SKA
IAN
HE
AM
NIC
OD
TEL
SM
KO
KO
25
55
65
10
PER.
YANNY
STREM
14
35
44
28
48
ER.
KY P
ARS
TAT
.
L
BO
16
PER.
OVSKY
20
NETCHIK
5-Y MO11
10
11
18
.
UL
.
PER
SKY
OV 15
YAK
N
H
VIS
23
35
TETERIN
SKY PER.
2
14
30
12
45
UL.
AYA
29 TARSK
. TA
BOL
11
42
49
43
47
13
33
15
EPA
UL. ZATS 19
.
ER
R.
YP
SK
EN
OS
DS
KA
AN
LY
SO
39
22
GOLIKOVSKY
35
30
5
11
AB.
KAYA N
NICHES
YA
BR
SERE
NAB.
OVSKAYA
BERNIK
2
42
.
NAB 14
AYA
VSK
RKO 8
OZE
34
moscow.inyourpocket.com
YA UL.
OVSKA
RPUKH14
BOL. SE 8
15
DOBRYNINSKAYA
37
11 L.
AU
5 NITSKAY 12
T
6
PYA
11
30
54
APAKOVA PR.
12
6
8
10
1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
13
R.
25
Y PE
ETSK
UZN
2-Y NO VOK
2-Y MON
ETCHIKOV
SKY PER.
ZHITNAYA UL.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
L UL.
KOROVY VA5
3
.
PER
16 OVSKY
9
RK
OZE
8
ER.
KY P
EVS
ACH
M
L
9
O
RY T
STA
12
46
OKTYABRSKAYA
.
Y PER
RELSK
POGO
64
72
63 A
NK
LYA 58
PO
L.
53 . BO 6
UL 5
14
UL.
MYTNAYA
16
.
PR
KY
NS
I
N
LE
PER.
4
PER.
16
VSKY
2-Y SPASONALIVKO
PER.
6
1-Y KAZACHY PER.
OKTYABRSKAYA
POLYANKA
16
1-Y SPAS
4
19 ONALIVKOVSKY
VA
L.
GORKY
PARK
PIER
.
10
ER
KOV P
BRODNI
41
KRY
MS
KY
6
ER.
VSKY P
PYZHE 5
CHKALOVS
VERK
HNY
AYA
OLE
VO P
NTSO 8
VORO
4
.
PER
SKY
IAT
SAR
S
I
M
KO
ER.
KY P
OVS
RUN
13
NOVOKUZNETSKAYA
KRYMSKY
MOST
10
10
35
CO
RI
27
14
10
KLIMENTOVSKY PER.
OLMACHEVSKY PER.
BOL. T
TRETYAKOVSKAYA
28
R
VE
18
R.
BOLSHOY
USTYINSKY
MOST
26
OVCH
INNIK
OVSKA
YA NA
6
B.
36
MALY
KAMENNY
MOST
PATRIARSHY
MOST
MOLOCHNY PER.
KO
RO
BE
YN
KH 3 IK
OV
ILK
OV
11
PE
R.
PE
R.
9
1
B.
NA
YA
KA
S
.
EN
AB
ST
HI
AN
EC
AY
PR
SK
YM
KR
NY PE
PODKOLOKOL
12
13
.
AB 2
AN 3
LUZHKOV
AY
. MOST EVSK
B
A
SH
AN
DA
KA
AY
TN
LO
O
B
5
10
15
SAD
OVN
ICH
18 ESKAY 13
AU
L.
.
PL
YA
NA
T
LO
BO
NO
VO
KR
YM
SK
PARK KULTURY
YP
KR
YM
R.
SKY
PRO
EZD
10
BOLSHOY
KAMENNY
MOST
G UL.
BALCHU
18
RAU
SHSK
AYA
NAB
.
16
10
36
27
R.
PE
KY
NS
KI
OT
OP
KR
VP
ER
.
AB.
KAYA N
SOFIYS30
20
S
1 OYM
ON
OV
12
5 SKY P
11
RO
EZ
1
D
2
2
15 -Y O 3
BY
DE
12
N
SK 4
PO
YP
13ZHA 8
ER
RS
.
KY
1
1-Y 10
PE
R
ZA
.
CH
AT
YE
5
VS
KY
13PER
4
.
DU
RAS
OV
SKY
PER
.
13
MOS
KVOR
ETSK
AYA N
AB.
BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST
AB.
AYA N
LEVSK
KREM
18
.
UL
KA
ESN
28 HIST ECH
EN
EC
OV
PR
SK
YP
21
ER
.
PO
ME
RA
NT
SE
BOROVITSKAYA
ER.
KY P
EVS
ASH
KAD
.
1-Y
PER
SKY
27
HIN
R.
Y PE
RUS
N
T
32
LAV
ONE
ROM
.
. STA
25 A UL.
PER 6
BOL
TNY
NK
LYA
ONE
. PO 20
ROM
BOL
7
STA
24
3
4
22
UL.
2
NKA
IMA
. YAK
MAL
R.
4
R.
PE
KY
NS
6-8
35
KI
OP
ER 11
29
38
22
ENKO
UL
10
22
L
KY BU
LENS
SMO
PA 10
LIM
15 OVSK
4
Y PER.
9
KY
INS
SH
EV 11
L. L
O
B
25
6
R.
PE
8
CHI
STY
PE
KROPOTKINSKAYA
12
10
PER.
VSKY
GLAZO
9
10-12
GAGARINSKY PER.
PRECH
ISTEN
S
7 KY PER.
28
4
PER.
EINY
RUZH22
22
11
KITAY GOROD
VASILYEVSKY
SPUSK PL.
28
14
30
PER.
VRAZHEK
SIVTSEV
22
Maps
7 KY
S
OV
KHL
KHO
VARVARKA UL.
3
19
ER.
YP
EN
22
RM
A
Z
KA 6
39
ZN 10
AM
EN
KA
U
13 L.
18
48
21
25
.
UL
24
38
PER.
ZHNY
DENE
YA UL.
7
ALEXANDROVSKY
SAD
16
.
PER
KOV
TNI
PLO
SMOLENSKAYA
BIBLIOTEKA
IMENI LENINA
ARBATSKAYA
AT
28 ARB
.
PER
SKY
NIT
A
M
KAR
UL.
5
SQ
UA
RE
)
STAROSADSKY PER.
11
(R
ED
L.
AYA U
ORSK
POZIT
KOM
25
VOZDVIZH
ENKA
9 L.
U
KA 10
ILIN
6
13
21
10
OCHNY PER.
ROT
8
9 .
R
PE
SKY 12
HEV
ISHC
GLIN
3 . SPASO
6
L
BO
23
22
KR
AS
NA
YA
PL
.
NS
KY
PE
R.
KITAY GOROD
L.
AP
AY
AR
ST
28
VE
TO
SH
NY
PE
R.
OKHOTNY
RYAD
UL
.
BO
GO
YA
VL
E
23
32
BOL. MOLCH
ANOVKA UL.
BO
L. N
IKI 6
TSK
AYA
PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
.
6
PER
SKY
YEV
IPAT
ER.
KY P
OLS 6
NIK
4
3
.
ER
YP
BN
RY
36
KH
L EB 8
NY
PE
R.
14
12
15
.
PER
KY
ASS 6
Maps
PER
.
23
ER.
YP
HN
LAS
L.
Y BU
ITSK
ER.
KY P
OVS
YAK
RZL
ME
UL
.
13
65
UL
Maps
Street register
1905 Goda ul.
Akademika Sakharova pr.
Alexandra Nevskogo ul.
Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul.
Apakova pr.
Arbat ul.
Armyansky per.
Bakhrushina ul.
Balchug ul.
Bernikovskaya nab.
Bersenevskaya nab.
Bobrov per.
Bogoyavlensky per.
Bol. Afanasyevsky per.
Bol. Balkansky per.
Bol. Bronnaya ul.
Bol. Dmitrovka ul.
Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul.
Bol. Gruzinskaya ul.
Bol. Karetny per.
Bol. Kazenny per.
Bol. Kharitonyevsky per.
Bol. Kiselny per.
Bol. Kislovsky per.
Bol. Kozikhinsky per.
Bol. Kozlovsky per.
Bol. Levshinsky per.
Bol. Lubyanka ul.
Bol. Molchanovka ul.
Bol. Nikitskaya ul.
Bol. Ordynka ul.
Bol. Palashevsky per.
Bol. Patriarshy per.
Bol. Polyanka ul.
Bol. Sadovaya ul.
Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul.
Bol. Spasskaya ul.
Bol. Staromonetny per.
Bol. Strochenovsky per.
Bol. Sukharevkaya pl.
Bol. Sukharevsky per.
Bol. Tatarskaya ul.
Bol. Tatarsky per.
Bol. Tishinsky per.
Bol. Vlasyevsky per.
Bol. Yakimanka ul.
Bol. Znamensky per.
Bolotnaya nab.
Bolotnaya pl.
Borodinskaya ul. (1ya)
Borodinskaya ul. (2ya)
Brestskaya ul. (1ya)
Brestskaya ul. (2ya)
Brodnikov per.
Butikovsky per.
Chayanova ul.
Chistoprudny bul.
Chisty per.
Delegatskaya ul.
Dobryninsky per. (1y)
Dokuchaev per.
Dolgorukovskaya ul.
Dubininskaya ul.
Durasovsky per.
Durova ul.
Ermolaevsky per.
Eropkinsky per.
Fadeeva ul.
Filippovsky per.
Furmanny per.
Gagarinsky per.
Gazetny per.
Gilyarovskogo ul.
Glazovsky per.
Gogolevsky bul.
Golikovsky per.
A-1/2
D-1/2
/B-1
E-4
C-4
B-3
D-2
D-5
D-3/4
E-3
C-4
D-2
C/D-3
B-3/4
D-1
B-2
C-2
A-4
A-1/2
C-1
E-2
E-2
C/D-2
C-3
B-2
E-2
B-4
D-2
B-3
B/C-3
D-4/5
B-2
B-2
C-4/5
B-1/2
C/D-5
E-1
C-4
D-5
D-1
D-1
D-4/5
D-5
A-1
B-4
C-5
B-3/4
C-4
C-4
A-3/4
A-3
A/B-1
A/B-1
C-4/5
B-4
B-1
D/E-2
B-4
C-1
C-5
D-1
B-1
D-5
E-3
C-1
B-2
B-4
B-1
B-3
E-2
B-4
C-2/3
D-1
A/B-4
B-3/4
D-4
C-4
E-4
E-4
E-4
E-2
B-2
D-1
D-2
C-3
D-3
C-4
C-4
E-1
B-3
C-5
C-5
E-2
C-5
E-3
B-4
B-3
D/E-3
C-5
A-4
D-4
D-2/3
A/B-3
E-1
F-6
A-2/3
D-1
B-4
C-5
D/E-4
D-1
D/E-4
D-4
C-2
A/B-1, B-2
C-3
A-2
A-3
B-1
E-1
C-3
D-2
B-4
E-5
E-5
B-5
B-5
B/C-5
B/C-4
A-3
C/D-2
C-1
C-4
F-6
B-2
A-1
D-2
E-2/3
B-2
B-1/2
A-2
C-1
B-2
B-2
D-4/5
C-5
D-1
C-4
B/C-3
C-3
C-3
E-4
Maronovsky per.
Maroseyka ul.
Mashkova ul.
Merzlyakovsky per.
Milyutinsky per.
Miusskaya pl.
Mohovaya ul.
Molochny per.
Monetchikovsky per. (2y)
Monetchikovsky per. (3y)
Monetchikovsky per. (5y)
Monetchikovsky per. (6y)
Moskvoretskaya nab.
Myasnitskaya ul.
Mytnaya ul.
Neglinnaya ul.
Nikitsky bul.
Nikitsky per.
Nikoloyamskaya ul.
Nikolskaya ul.
Nikolsky per.
N. Krasnokholmskaya ul.
N. Krasnoselskaya ul.
Novaya Basmannaya ul.
Novaya pl.
Novinsky bul.
Novokrymsky pr.
Novokuznetskaya ul.
Novokuznetsky per. (1y)
Novokuznetsky per. (2y)
Novoryazanskaya ul.
Novy Arbat ul.
Obydensky per. (2y)
Okhotny ryad ul.
Olimpiysky pr.
Ostozhenka ul.
Ovchinnikovskaya nab.
Ozerkovskaya nab.
Ozerkovsky per.
Paveletskaya pl.
Petrovka ul.
Petrovsky bul.
Petrovsky per.
Pyzhevsky per.
Pl. Nikitskie Vorota
Plotnikov per.
Plyushchikha ul.
Podkolokolny per.
Podsosensky per.
Pogorelsky per.
Pokrovka ul.
Pokrovsky bul.
Pomerantsev per.
Posledny per.
Potapovsky per.
Povarskaya ul.
Pozharsky per.
Prechistenskaya nab.
Prechistensky per.
Presnensky val ul.
Prospekt Mira
Pushechnaya ul.
Pushkinskaya nab.
Pushkinskaya pl.
Pyatnitskaya ul.
Pevchesky per.
Raushskaya nab.
Romanov per.
Rozhdestvenka ul.
Rozhdestvensky bul.
Runovsky per.
Rybny per.
Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.
C-5
D-2/3
E-2
B-3
D-2
B-1
C-3
B-4
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-3
D-2
C-5
C-2
B-3
C-2/3
E-3/4
C-2/3
D-3
E-4/5
E-1
E-1
D-2
A-2/3
B-5
D-4/5
D-5
D-5
E-1
A/B-3
B-4
C-2/3
C-1
B-4/5
D-4
D-4
D-4
D-5
C-2
C-1/2
C-2
C-4
B-2
B-3
A-4
E-3
E-3
C-5
D/E-2
E-3
B-4
D-1
D-2
B-2/3
B-4
C-4
B-4
A-1/2
D-1
C/D-2
B-5
C-2
D-4
D-3
D-3
C-3
C-2
C/D-2
D-4
C-3
B/C-1
A/B-2
E-1/2
B-1
Sadovnicheskaya ul.
Sadovnichesky proezd
Samotyochnaya ul.
Serebryanicheskaya nab.
Shchepkina ul.
Sivtsev Vrazhek per.
Skatertny per.
Smolensky bul.
Smolenskaya ul.
Sofiyskaya nab.
Soymonovsky proezd
Solyanka ul.
Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y)
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonyevsky per.
Sretenka ul.
Sretensky bul.
Stanislavskogo ul.
Staraya pl.
Starokonyushenny per.
Staromonetny per.
Starosadsky per.
Stary Tolmachevsky per.
Stoleshnikov per.
Stolyarny per.
Strastnoy bul.
Sushchevskaya ul.
Sytinsky per.
Tarasa Shevchenko nab.
Tatarskaya ul.
Teatralny proezd
Teterinsky per.
Triumfalnaya pl.
Trubnaya ul.
Trubnikovsky per.
Tryokhprudny per.
Tsvetnoy bul.
Tverskaya ul.
Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.
Tverskoy bul.
Usacheva ul.
Ustyinsky pr.
Valovaya ul.
Varsonofyevsky per.
Varvarka ul.
Vasilyevsky spusk pl.
Vasilyevskaya ul.
Vasnetsova per.
V. Radishchevskaya ul.
V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.
Volhonka ul.
Vorontsovo pole
Vorontsovskaya ul.
Vozdvizhenka ul.
Voznesensky per.
Vspolny per.
Yakimanskaya nab.
Yakimansky proezd
Yauzsky bul.
Zemlyanoy Val ul.
Zhitnaya ul.
Zhukovskogo ul.
Znamenka ul.
Zoologicheskaya ul.
D-3/4
D-3
C-1
E-3
D-1
B-3
B-2/3
A-4
A-4
C-3
B-4
D-3
C-5
B-2
B-2
D-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
B-3/4
C-4
D-2/3
D-4
C-2
A-2
C-1/2
B-1
B-2
A-3
D-5
C-2
E-4
B-1
C-1
A/B-3
B-2
C-1
B-1/2
A/B-1
B -2
F-6
D-3/4
D-5
C/D-2
C-3
D-3
A/B-1
C-1
E-4
E-3
C-3/4
E-3
E-4/5
B/C-3
B-2
B-2
C-4
C-4
E-3
E-2/3/4
C-5
E-2
B/C-3
A-1/2
Abbreviations
Ul. - Ulitsa
Per. - Pereulok
Pr. - Prospekt
Pl. - Ploschad
Bul. - Bulvar
Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Bol. - Bolshaya
Mal. - Malaya
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Bulvar
Rokossovskogo
Troparyovo
Looking for
expats,
tourists &
businesspeople?
Advertise with
Moscow
In Your Pocket
Moscow
Call +7 926 243 20 32