Care Sheet - Bull Snake (Pituophis catenifer sayi)

Bull snakes (Pituophis catenifer sayi) make an excellent snake for most people.
Though I would not recommend one as a snake for a beginner. The reason for
this is that Bull snakes can be a bit hyper as babies and juveniles. Often they are
a very vocal snake and makes quite a defence display this can be unnerving to a
first-time snake keeper. With that being said, I think just about anybody could
handle the care requirements for a Bull snake or its closely related cousins, the
Pine and Gopher snakes.
One of the great things about the Bull snake is that it doesn't require very
specialized conditions, with regard to temperature and humidity. In fact, a Bull
snake will do well in a cage that ranges from room temperature (low to mid 70s
Fahrenheit) to about 10 above room temperature. They are a very hardy snake.
Description and Appearance
Bull snakes can also be quite large and impressive when they reach adult size up
to 10 though generally 6-7 is about their size. As far as appearance goes, these
snakes generally have a yellow or cream-coloured base with brown or reddishbrown blotches down their backs.
People often mistake Bull snakes for Rattlesnakes in the wild, because they exist
in the same range and bear similar colours. On top of that, a Bull snake in the
wild will often rattle its tail when it feels threatened. Obviously, a Bull snake does
not have a rattle at the end of its tail, but many snakes use the tale-rattling
technique to warn predators. When they do this over dry leaves or a similar
ground covering, it produces a sound similar to a Rattlesnake

Care Requirements for Bull Snakes

Housing: As I mentioned earlier, the Bull snake can be quite large when it
reaches adult size. Specimens reaching 7' are not uncommon. So you need an
appropriate-sized cage to house your snake. A baby or juvenile can be kept in a
smaller vivarium. An adult Bull snake should be kept in a cage that is 4' x 2' in
size, or larger. Clean the cage thoroughly at least once a month, and spot-clean
as needed to remove faeces, shed skin, etc.
Heating: Like all reptiles, Bull snakes are cold blooded. They rely on their
environment to regulate their body temperature. Provide a temperature range or
"gradient" so your snake has options. I would recommend a range of about 75 to
87 Fahrenheit. You allow the temperature to drop by 5 degrees at night, as it
does in the wild.
Heating: You can heat your Bull snake's cage in a number of ways of ways. You
can use heat mats that go on the floor of the vivarium, which is known as "belly
heat." Or you can use heating bulbs or ceramic heaters to project the heat down
from above, like the sun or the new ADHS heating system by Microclimate on
plug heating system with a built in thermostat I personally prefer these.
If you choose the heat mat route it with an appropriate thermostat again if you
use he bulb route use a dimmer thermostat and a pulse proportional thermostat
for a ceramic heater. Always use a guard on bulbs and ceramic heaters.
Lighting: I recommend using a fluorescent light on a timer to provide a natural
cycle of daylight. Bull snakes have a natural light cycle in the wild, so they should
have the same in captivity. I find they are more active and show a better colour if
they are given some UV light so I would recommend something with 2.0% UV
output. Put the light on a timer for eight hours a day.
Feeding: In captivity, Bull snakes generally have a strong appetite. So getting
the snake eating should be pretty straightforward. I recommend offering frozen /
thawed rodents, as opposed to live rodents, because it's safer for the snake and
easier for you. Babies and juveniles can be fed every 5 - 7 days on pinkie mice.
Adults can be fed an appropriate-sized meal every 10 - 14 days. To judge the
size of the food mice or rats simply offer them food that is not more than 1
times the widest girth of your snake. An adult Bull snake of 7 plus will take a
medium rabbit.
Water: Your snake should have clean drinking water available at all times. I
recommend cleaning the water bowl a couple of times a week. Scrub the bowl
well with antibacterial soap. If you clean it often, you won't need to use bleach. If
the snake poops in the bowl, remove and clean the bowl immediately. It happens!
Hides: In the wild, snakes spend most of their time hiding (except when they are
hunting or basking in the sun). They hide under rocks, logs, anything that
protects them from predators. Your Bull snake will feel more secure if you give it
a couple of places to hide. I recommend placing a hide on both ends of the cage.
John Gamesby