SELECTING A TOW VEHICLE

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Cs & S M,
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PART ONE of a four-part series on criteria for selecting a tow vehicle

In issues 5, 6 & 7 of last years 2013 Summer Trip newsletters (available free on our website: www.thriftytravel.info), we
presented a 3-part series on criteria for selecting a camping trailer. At almost every RV rally one or more folks will
engage me in conversation asking the next inevitable question, Whats the best vehicle to use for towing a travel
trailer? Thanks to Tom Woolsey for requesting a more in-depth discussion of this topic for inclusion in this summers
travel newsletters. In exploring this topic every effort will be made to minimize personal, subjective criteria & viewpoints.
But we should also realize that the combination of each individual travel trailer and potential tow vehicle increases the
variables to making a successful choice. The bottom line: This aint goin ta be easy but Im going to try my hardest to
keep it understandable.
Prior to discussing tow vehicle characteristics lets look at the loads and issues a trailer places on a tow vehicle. A
trailers weight dramatically impacts the tow vehicle in many ways. Obviously, the heavier the trailer, the more weight
you have to pull. But there is more to consider than just shear poundage. Dont forget, campers love to stuff heavy
things in every nook and cranny of their home-on-wheels.
Tongue weight is the weight of the trailer on the tow vehicles trailer hitch. This downward weight varies based upon
the design of the trailer and manufacturers consider this in their placement of cabinets, bathrooms, appliances, and
axle location. The more tongue weight, the less sway at the back end of the trailer when being towed. But more tongue
weight increases the stresses on the tow vehicle & its hitch. As the trailer begins moving down the highway these
forces increase dramatically. Bumpy & bouncy roads cause up & down forces along with side-to-side action that
hammer & stress the tow vehicle & hitch in all directions. Ideally, the tongue weight when fully loaded should be about
10%-15% of the trailers weight. To measure your trailers tongue weight go to http://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-todetermine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx for several techniques you can use yourself.
Another consideration is trailer mass. I define trailer mass as the weight of the trailer times (x) its mass as a moving
object. A boulder sitting on the ground has great weight but little moving mass so its not dangerous. But get that
boulder rolling and you suddenly learn how impacting mass can be! The same is true with a trailer; get the trailer
moving and you have a real challenge on your hands and on your tow vehicles ability to handle a large moving
mass. Can your tow vehicle stop the trailer? How quickly? Can your tow vehicle turn corners at city & highway speeds
without being dangerously pushed the wrong way by the mass of your moving trailer? Some of us have seen trailer
mass in action when a trailer has either too little tongue weight or (more often) too much weight in the rear of a trailer.
The dangerous result is a swaying trailer that wants to whip the tow vehicle off the road; like a huge swinging
pendulum, once the trailer gets going side to side youve got a tiger by the tail. Hitting the brakes can often cause even
more whipping action leading to even greater turbulence and danger.
Having experienced this twice, once with a misloaded utility trailer carrying heavy appliances to the dump, and another
Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

time with my trailers water tank filled, Ive found a technique to get me off the
road safely so I can redistribute the trailers load look at the drawing on the
right >. If your trailer starts swaying side-to-side, increase your speed slightly
by lightly stepping on the accelerator pedal. This will straighten the imaginary
line between the tow vehicle and the trailer.
Then gradually slow down and get off the highway. This worked when I had our
Aliners water tank filled. I learned to drive with an empty water tank and fill it
before entering the campground (assuming it has no water available). (Note: I
cannot be liable if this doesnt work for you! Thats my official disclaimer
statement.)
That technique didnt work with our small utility trailer loaded with major
appliances at the rear! In that case the acceleration stopped the whipping
action but slowing down brought it back again. By slowly accelerating again I
waited for traffic to thin out, then I hit the brakes and rode out the violent
whipping action. In fact, with this scenario I had to get my colleagues to hang
out the vehicles windows and wave for cars to stay back. When traffic backed off I hit the brakes hard, slowed down
quickly (with a lot of shaking) and got off the road. Plan your loads! And dont even think about continuing to
accelerate to keep your trailer from swaying. You cant keep accelerating forever!
Other trailer sway
No matter how well your trailer is designed and your load is distributed, all trailers can develop sway due to road
conditions. Highways have almost invisible tracks or grooves in the pavement, usually in the far-right lane due to
heavy trucks flattening the asphalt with their tires. The track or width of the trailers axle can have your trailer
swaying back and forth, left to right, within those two grooves. If this becomes a problem, try shifting to another lane!
Also, a sway bar (also called a friction bar) mounted on your trailers tongue and attaching to your tow vehicles hitch
can assist in keeping any minor sway to a manageable level. Theyre easy to install and run about $85-$125 (plus
installation if you dont DIY).
Your trailers characteristics
Other characteristics of the trailer itself play into the towing equation. How tall is your trailer? How is the front of your
trailer shaped? Rounded? Angled? Blunt? Is it a pop-up trailer that folds-down to provide a low profile during travel?
Is your trailer equipped with brakes? How high is your trailers tongue off the ground? How high is your trailers
suspension system? All these characteristics have an effect on the tow vehicle thats best for your particular
application.
While you wait for our next issue with Part Two in this series, take the time to write down the specifics of your
trailer and reflect upon how they impact your current tow vehicle or your future model.

See you next issue when we explore VEHICLE characteristics !

SELECTING A TOW VEHICLE FOR YOUR TRAILER

PART TWO of a four-part series on criteria for selecting a tow vehicle

This is the second installment in the multi-part series on how to select a tow vehicle for your trailer. Part One, in Issue
#4 of our 2014 Summer Trip Newsletter, is available for reading or download at our website, www.thriftytravel.info.
In the first part of our series we discussed several physical characteristics of trailers that effect a tow vehicle: trailer
weight, trailer tongue weight, weight distribution, trailer mass (the trailers weight while moving), trailer sway and other

Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

In this issue I will provide additional information about vehicle towing capacity and a simple explanation to a question,

Why are some cars not rated for towing in the USA while the same model in Europe has a towing capacity of a ton
or more? Several folks, especially Tom Woolsey, have asked this question many times before. My good friend, and
fellow VW car club member, Paul Loar did some unexpected research and sent me a very detailed scientific report on
this very topic. It revealed more info about towing dynamics in addition to answering yours and Toms question. The
source for this info can be found at http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/tow-me-down-1609112611/1609771499/+ballaban
The solution to this conundrum, how can the same vehicle have different ratings in different countries, needs a bit of
prior knowledge.
There are a lot of physics principles going on when you pull your trailer: roll, yaw, static stability and dynamic stability
(oscillation), plus a lot of other forces at work. In Part One we mentioned how trailers sway or oscillate left to right when
improperly loaded, like a big dog wagging its tail. The tow-me-down website article (mentioned in the previous
paragraph) added some info I hadnt known:
1. The effects of dynamic instability (sway) are relative to speed.
2. The speed at which the effects become a safety issue lowers based on the following variables:
a. Dynamic instability increases as the mass of the trailer gets larger in relation to the mass of the tow vehicle. This
means that as the trailer gets heavier (especially as it gets overloaded) it can overcome the mass of the tow
vehicle. And if the mass of the trailer becomes greater than the mass of the tow vehicle your chances of
dangerous sway (dynamic instability) become more prevalent.
b. When the center of mass is ahead of the trailers axle stability is increased. As the distance between the tow
vehicle and the trailers center of mass decreases the stability is reduced.
c. The tow vehicles wheelbase affects stability. Generally the longer the wheelbase, the better the stability.
3. Plus there are other factors that lead to trailer instability, one being suspension dampening rates.
When countries rate tow vehicles they adopt or decide on what physical factors & formulas to use in setting their
particular requirements to use in determining towing capacity. The first thing they want to know is the kind of stability
the tow vehicle has without the trailer. This is described as the dampening ratio. Positive dampening ratios mean
stability (decaying oscillations or decreasing sway) and negative dampening means increasing oscillations
(increasing sway).
Another factor is the tow vehicles weight capacity. Every vehicle has a weight limit called the GVW (gross vehicle
weight), the GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) or the MAM (maximum allowed mass). This weight limit stipulates how
much weight the vehicle can safely handle. Additionally there is GAWR (gross axle weight rating) that stipulates how
much weight can safely be carried over a given axle. This considers not only the safe weight capacity of mechanical
parts, but also the stability limits of springs, bushings. etc, in the related suspension of that axle. (This is all serious
stuff!)
Example: If your potential tow vehicle has a GVWR of, say, 4500 pounds, and the curb weight of your vehicle (weight
without driver & passengers, fuel, & cargo) is 3500 pounds, then you have 1000 pounds left for all those items before
you reach a point of safety concern. As the web article detailed, having the trailer axle(s) behind the center of mass*
is ideal (*tow vehicle & trailer mass combined as one unit). If you move the center of mass too far forward of
the trailers axle(s) you get increased problems such as too much tongue weight on your trailer hitch; theres only so
much weight the tow vehicle and its hitch can handle given its GAWR: gross axle weight rating. At the same time you
also un-weight the front axle, not a good thing to do either because you reduce front tire contact with the road (steering
& braking).
Using 10% as a rough guide for tongue weight (USA recommendation is 10%-15%) shows between 100 and 500
pounds on the rear axle based on trailers ranging from 2,000-6,000 pounds total trailer weight (trailer plus all contents
inside of it). Though the 10% tongue weight will give the trailer a good base stability point it unfortunately also loads up
the tow vehicle and weighs down the GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) and, more importantly, the GAWR (gross axle
Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

weight rating). If your trailer is a lightweight model with a empty weight of 3,300 lbs. plus contents of 700 lbs. (total =
4000 lbs.), your tongue weight is now 400 lbs., so you can see how you can easily max out the GAWR & GVWR with
only 600 pounds left for passengers, fuel, fluids and cargo inside the tow vehicle.
(I know this is getting techie but hold on, were almost to the answer; be patient!)
So our question still stands, how do you get the same vehicle in Europe to haul the same trailer (available in
both Europe & USA) but the USA model is not rated to do so on our shores? Lets review this quickly:
1. The worse the ratio between the trailer and the tow vehicle mass the easier it is to have oscillations (sway) and the
more likely the sway will be uncontrollable.
2. 10%-15% tongue weight with the mass in front of the axle is ideal for dynamic and static towing.
3. The greater the tongue weight the more compromised a tow vehicles suspension attitude, GVWR and GAWR
become.
4. Speed amplifies any of these problems (low tongue weight, high trailer-to-tow vehicle mass ratio, etc.)
In the UK (United Kingdom):
1. Drivers licenses limit how much you can tow to less than 7700 lbs unless you earn E entitlement (additional
licensing) to tow above 7700 lbs.
2. Trailer size restrictions are 22 feet (long) x 8.33 feet (wide) up to 7700 lbs. gross combined.
3. All trailers above 1600 lbs, have to have brakes.
4. Max towing speed is 60 MPH on motorways* (*equivalent to USA interstates & highways) and are limited to slower
speeds on other roads smaller than motorways.
5. Drawbar nose weight (= USA tongue weight) 4%-7% (150-330 lbs. total max) recommended.
Lets compare the above to the USA (Utah as the example):
(Note: USA rates vary by state, so the website author chose a conservative state where heavy towing loads by the
masses is pretty normal: Utah.)
1. Class A drivers license allows for up to 26,000 gross combined vehicle (trailer & tow vehicle).
2. Trailer size restrictions are 14 feet height x 8.5 feet wide and 65 feet combined train length.
3. All trailers 2000 lbs. and up require trailer brakes.
4. Max tow speed is the standard passenger car limit (65-80 MPH) unless posted. (Other states have lower speed
limits.)
5. Tongue weight max is 100-1000 lbs. depending upon (hitch) receiver class (i.e. draw bar; more is allowed for 5th
wheel trailers).
Heres the nitty-gritty
Compared to the USA, UK drivers can tow less weight and size without a special license and the maximum highway
speed is 60 MPH versus up to 80 in the USA. The most important number to look at is the % of weight over the nose or
tongue for the UK versus the USA. In the UK the thinking is that if you reduce the tongue weight you can pull more
without risking maxing out your GAWR or nosing up the vehicle dangerously and as a result the trailers have their
mass much more centralized over the axle which means that the only thing the tow vehicle needs to do is pull in a line,
which is less stress on the components. Sounds good right? However, if you havent fallen asleep by now, you will
recall that at low tongue weights with the trailer mass more closely centered to the axle you have a much increased risk
of destabilizing oscillations (sway). Given that the trouble really starts, according to the math and the real world
example, around 65 mph its no wonder that the UK has a strict limit on trailing (not over 60MPH).
To boil it all down, the reason that American vehicles are rated to tow less is based on a difference methodology for tow
safety. USA tow safety prioritizes a naturally safe dynamic situation so that more people can pull at freeway speeds
Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

with less likelihood of an unsafe incident. There is no doubt that using this method results in an inherently safer tow
situation as it relates to vehicle dynamics.
UK tow safety allows for the possibility to carry more weight, but erring on the side of caution with far less safety margin
in respect to the physics.
So, bottom line Can the same tow vehicle pull a heavier trailer in Europe than is rated for here in the US?
Yes, with some provisions:
1. The closer the trailer weight gets to the vehicle weight the slower you will need to drive.
2. DO NOT exceed 65 mph with a tongue weight in the 4-7% range, this is a guaranteed way to sway and 65 is the
max, go slower in regards to #1.
3. None of this takes into account crosswinds, cooling systems, horsepower, or braking effectiveness.
Should you pull a heavier trailer than the listed tow capacity of your tow vehicle? Weve given you the physics, you must
decide. The primary concern should be how much can you SAFELY tow with your vehicle without getting to the point
where you, your passengers, and those on the highway in proximity to you can all travel safely and not be affected by
highly dangerous oscillation (sway). Its up to you to do the math !
In next months issue well look at specific vehicle components that affect towing. I promise itll be a lot less technical
but still important ammunition for making your choice of tow vehicle. See you then.

PART THREE of a four-part series on criteria for selecting a tow vehicle

In the first two installments of this series we looked at the dynamic forces inherent in towing a trailer. Now well look at
vehicle components that can make or break a tow vehicle.
Vehicle integrity
There are several factors that play into selecting a tow vehicle but a major one is the vehicles ability to withstand the strain
of a trailer behind it trying to pull it apart while also trying to pull it off its intended trajectory (going safely down the road in
the intended direction). The heavier the trailer, the more stress on the tow vehicle; the higher the trailers profile (height),
the more stress placed on the tow vehicle as it pushes into the wind.
Bigger trucks usually have strong steel frames that are separate of the body. This design is intended for heavier-duty work
but also comes with a premium weight. Most other vehicles utilize unibody construction, meaning that the body and frame
are one integral unit usually made of multiple layers of stamped sheet metal. This type of construction is quite strong and
lighter in weight than frame & body construction but also with reduced towing capacity. The majority of todays modern
vehicles are made using unibody construction.
Wheelbase length
The longer the wheelbase, the greater the stability when towing. A shorter wheelbase has a greater potential to swing leftto-right than a longer wheelbase, which reduces towing stability (more sway). This is especially true when handling
problems become present, such as during emergency maneuvers (a car pulls into your path from a side road, an object
appears in the road, etc.). A longer wheelbase does not infer that a particular vehicle is inherently better at towing, but is
another consideration in sorting out the best tow vehicle puzzle.
Towing capacity
Always check to see the manufacturers tow rate or towing capacity for the vehicle youre considering. This can be found
in vehicle advertising literature, specs posted on websites, or in vehicles owners manual(s). Also note that some vehicles
may not be rated for towing. This does not always mean they cant tow, its just that the manufacturer is using the USA
standard for towing safety that differs from those standards used in Europe. I know of one auto manufacturer that sells the

Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

same exact car in several countries with its statement of a tow rating of 3,000 pounds in one country but a stated no tow
rating in the USA. I will not comment or advise further on this topic as it involves warranty issues, safety concerns, liability,
and several other factors; you need to investigate carefully. (See our newsletter Issue #5 where this was discussed in
great detail. It is available at our website: www.thriftytravel.info).
You should also be aware that not all of the same particular model of a vehicle will have the same tow rating. Confused?
Heres an example: An advertisement may state this particular SUV has a tow rating of 3500 pounds, but when you read
the fine-print it says if equipped with the optional tow package. If not equipped the rating is lessened to 3200 pounds.
(More on tow packages later.) The bottom line in regard to tow capacity is read the fine print and dont assume.
Drivetrain ability
The drivetrain in a vehicle are all the elements that are involved in making the vehicle drive down the road. Drivetrain
elements include: the engine, transmission, drive shafts, brakes, suspension, and related components. (I will discuss the
engine separately later.) These components must be capable of: A) pulling the weight of a stationary trailer up to speed,
B) stopping the weight of a moving trailer, and C) handling the movement (turning & handling) of a rolling trailer.
Obviously, the larger or heavier the trailer, the stronger the components needed to effectively and safely handle those
forces. As an example, an improperly loaded trailer with either too much tongue weight, or too much weight in the rear of
the trailer will exhibit unwanted and dangerous handling characteristics. Will your tow vehicle be able to handle these
gyrations without being damaged? Will your drivetrain be able to pull the extra weight of your trailer without overheating?
Will you be able to keep the trailer on the road when making normal turns at highway speeds? Can your pull vehicle
safely handle emergency maneuvers to avoid an accident with several thousand pounds behind it wanting to go in a
different direction? Will your suspension components support the additional weight of a trailer hitch and the weight of the
trailer? Can your axle shafts handle the increased torque to pull the vehicle and a trailer? How strong are your brakes?
(Trailers over 2000 lbs. need their own brakes!)
These are difficult questions to answer, but people answer these questions for themselves everyday by making a tow
vehicle selection. If a vehicle is towing-rated you should expect it to handle the specified load. You can also consult vehicle
product literature, vehicle tests & ratings conducted by magazine or online services, or other sources. Google or search
online for ratings & test results, but be sure to include towing as a test factor. Another good source are the actual owners
of tow vehicles like the model(s) youre considering. Be sure to have specific questions to ask them. Write your questions
& concerns down so you can thoroughly ask for all the info you want. Lets look a little more in-depth at some vehicle
components.
Transmission
A problematic component in many tow vehicles is the transmission. This is the device that transfers the power from the
engine to the driveshafts and, ultimately, the wheels. Most vehicles nowadays are equipped with automatic transmissions.
Trucks may sometimes be ordered with a manual transmission, and a few cars still offer stick-shift (manual)
transmissions. The process of pulling a trailer places a extra burden on the transmission beyond the normal ravages of
daily driving. This extra burden results in extra heat being transferred to the transmissions fluid. Overheated automatic
transmission fluid is often a culprit in causing transmission death. As a precaution I change my transmission fluid at
shorter intervals than recommended. You can also install a transmission cooler, which looks like a small radiator and
functions to reduce transmission fluid temperatures. When towing a trailer check the fluid level about every 3-4 weeks, the
same intervals as used in checking engine old (more often if the tow vehicle is several years old).
Cooling system and related
Transmission fluid is generally routed through a reservoir that is part of the radiator. The radiators water cools down the
transmission fluids temperature resulting in better reliability, performance and reduced repair expenses. A towing
package, offered by the manufacturers of the tow vehicle, often includes a larger capacity radiator to help reduce
transmission fluid temperature and engine temperature. Larger can be in the form of taller, wider, or thicker or any
combination. As engines work harder pulling a heavy load they generate more heat. This extra heat not only causes
increase engine wear, it also effects the engines oil. The cooling system not only keeps the engine parts from getting too
Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

hot, it is also cools the oil in the engine. Excessive heat damages oils physical properties and reduces its ability to
lubricate and cool moving engine parts.
Most newer vehicles use electric fans to pull or push air through the radiator rather than old belt-driven mechanical fans. A
tow vehicles cooling system must have a fan matched to its cooling needs, usually in the form of a larger fan than normal,
but this is determined by the vehicle manufacturer. Installing a lower temperature thermostat wont mimic a higher capacity
cooling system. Modern vehicles are designed to run at high but safe temperatures in order to provide the greatest fuel
economy & engine efficiency.
Electrical system
Some vehicles sitting on the dealers lot will be found with wiring to accommodate pulling a trailer: a flat-4 socket (for
simple utility trailers) or a 7-prong socket for travel trailers. (In Europe their trailer standard is a 9-prong plug!) In many
cases this wiring may be part of a trailer tow package installed by the factory or the dealer. Vehicles without trailer wiring
installed can be wired after purchase but new vehicle wiring requires different components than installed just a few years
ago. The biggest change is the dramatic reduction in wire size now being installed in late model vehicles.
Copper wiring increases in price almost annually, and with stricter fuel-economy requirements becoming the norm,
manufacturers are looking for ways to reduce vehicle weight and material costs. Shrinking wire size to thinner gauges not
only shaves weight while reducing costs but, unfortunately, results in electrical wiring that is unable to handle the
additional load of trailer lights and accessories. Wiring a vehicle directly to the trailer as was done years ago may result in:
1) the vehicles computer sending out a check light and stopping that portion of wiring from working; 2) or cause the
wiring or expensive module or computer to become damaged leaving a portion of your vehicle inoperative. The first
situation happened to me in my new 2014 model car. A reset by the dealer would have cost over $100 had I not had a
aftermarket computer program that replicates what the dealer can do. (Thank you Lord!)
The solution is to install wiring harnesses using modern component systems / modules available from various trailerwiring parts manufacturers; or you can have your tow vehicle wired by a trailer hitch installer. Unless youre very familiar
with vehicle wiring, it may be best to have a professional do your wiring installation. For more information on this topic and
the range of available components, go to www.etrailer.com and investigate their extensive how-to info and parts for
sale.
Next month well conclude this 4-part series by looking closely at the heart of the tow vehicle the engine. See you then!

PART FOUR the conclusion in a four-part series

In the first three installments we examined the dynamic forces

inherent in towing a trailer and the various components in vehicles
that effect towing potential. Now well look at another major key
component: the tow vehicles engine.

CONCLUSION: SELECTING
A TOW VEHICLE

Engine
Assuming that youve found a tow vehicle with everything you think you need in the areas of vehicle integrity, towing
capacity, drivetrain compatibility, transmission, cooling system sizing, and electrical system & trailer-towing wiring, the final
decision must take into account that component thats working hard to get you up the hill to the next campground the
engine.
There are basically two engine choices: 1) gasoline and 2) diesel. The vast majority of engines in the USA are powered by
gasoline. There are only 4-5 manufacturers that offer diesel-powered vehicles in the USA, and diesels account for less
than 3% of American cars. This is in sharp contrast to Europe where diesel-engined vehicles account for about 60% of
their passenger cars. Diesel fuel prices seem to fluctuate more frequently than gasoline and are higher per gallon due to
higher federal taxes thought to be a way to finance highway maintenance due to wear from heavy semi-tractor trailers.
Diesel fuel is often competitive with premium-grade (high test) gasoline at cost-per-gallon pump prices. At this point there
Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

are no hybrid or battery-only vehicles capable of effectively towing a trailer, so buyers must decide between the first two
types mentioned. Understanding the differences in how gasoline and diesel engines operate, and their respective
advantages & disadvantages, will assist you in making the most informed decision on what engine will power your next
tow vehicle.
Gasoline engines are powered by gasoline! The fuel is compressed about 8 to 10 times its volume within the cylinder
and then ignited by an electrical spark from a spark plug. Gasoline engines typically are about 25%-30% efficient. The
remaining energy is released as heat from the engine. In the past 3-4 years, GDI (gasoline direct injection) has increased
efficiency up to 35% in those vehicles using that technology.
Diesel engines are powered by a refined type of oil that has a greater power potential than gasoline. Diesel engines do not
require spark plugs. Due to the high compression ratios (over 20 times its volume) the cylinders become so hot that the
diesel fuel ignites itself (like spontaneous combustion). Direct injection diesel engines are about 40% efficient, and turbocharged, direct-injection diesel engines can achieve up to 50% efficiency. This efficiency allows a diesel engine to have
better fuel economy than a gasoline engine, which helps to offset the price difference in fuel types. And newer diesel
engines over the past 3-10 years have been able to provide even lower emissions than gasoline engines in almost all
categories!
When engine choice involves the towing of a trailer (or other heavy weight) there are additional considerations. The pulling
of a trailer requires more torque than (horse-)power. A laymans definition of each might be that horsepower is like
torque in relation to time. If you think of a thoroughbred race horse you think of a horse that is carrying a lightweight rider
and is intended to accelerate quickly and run fast. Torque is the ability to tow a heavy weight. Imagine a work horse pulling
an old fashioned firefighting wagon. The work horse must first get the water-laden wagon moving quickly from a dead stop
and then must get it moving faster to get to the fire. A race horse would not be able to get the heavy fire wagon moving
quickly, if at all. The race horse would have to expend tremendous energy to get the wagon moving resulting in higher
inefficiency compared to the work horse.
Towing differences
Lets translate this to automobile engines. A diesel engines design gives it a lot of torque (pulling power) at low RPM
(revolutions-per-minute) of engine speed, but it generally has less horsepower than a comparably-sized gas engine, so it
doesnt rev as quickly as a gas engine. In comparison, a gasoline engine has more horsepower while its torque is
179 HP@6000rpm; 172 ft.lbs@4100rpm

140 HP@4000rpm; 236 ft.lbs.@1700-2500rpm

2000

4000

6000

180
120
60
0

240
180
120
60
0
0

240

diesel engine, popular small station wagon

engine torque (pulling power): foot-pounds

gas engine, popular small SV

2000

4000

RPM: engine revolutions per minute

Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

6000

substantially less than a diesel engine, plus the torque it does make is provided when the gas engine is at high RPM
(revolutions-per-minute). To make a comparison lets look at a 2-liter, 4-cylinder gasoline engine and the same size diesel
engine. The typical gasoline engine of that size would generate 179 horsepower @ 6,000 RPM and 172 foot-pounds of
torque @ 4,100 RPM. A diesel engine of the same size generates 140 horsepower @ 4,000 RPM and 236 foot-pounds
of torque starting at 1,700 RPM. To achieve the same torque as a diesel engine you might have to purchase a 6-cylinder
gas engine. So then, how would this difference (gas VS diesel) effect towing? (see diagram on previous page for
comparison chart)
Lets look at the three typical circumstances trailer drivers face when towing: 1) accelerating from a stop, such as
pulling out of a driveway into traffic, or entering a ramp onto an interstate highway; 2) driving up an incline such as a
campground driveway or up a steep grade on an interstate highway; and 3) cruising at highway speeds (50-65MPH).
Both scenarios #1 & #2 require more torque than horsepower. If you were ascending a steep hill on the interstate or
pulling out into traffic, you would need to have the gasoline engine at high RPM to get up to a safe traffic speed or to
get up the incline. Most probably, depending upon the steepness of the incline, you might have to floor it if the hill was
steep for a long time. This is because the gas engines torque is only produced at high RPMs (revolutions-per-minute).
The size and torque capability of the gas engine will determine how steep an incline it could pull a camper up the hill.
By contrast, the diesel engine has 37% more torque than the gas engine (of the same size) and at a lower 1,700 RPM,
a speed that is almost a very fast idle. To be fair, the torque in the diesel engine will taper off quickly after it reaches
2,500 RPM but you could remain at that level of accelerator pedal all the way up the hill while still retaining the
appropriate speed. This is why trucking companies use diesel trucks to pull their loads, plus diesel engines get about
10%-25% better fuel economy.
In scenario #3, the gas engine would be turning about 3,000-4,000 RPM to maintain a highway speed. My 2-liter diesel
runs at 2,100 RPM at 60 MPH. This lower turning speed of the engine results in less fuel-burn in a diesel while also
reducing engine wear because it is turning 30%-47% less revolutions-per-minute at the same highway speed.
So why dont more people buy diesel-engined vehicles to tow trailers? That is, what are the DISadvantages of diesel
engines VS gasoline engines?
The cost of diesel fuel is higher than gasoline, usually around the price of premium-grade gasoline.
Diesel engines can be more expensive to service as there are fewer service shops trained to service them;
depending upon your location you might have to go to the respective dealership for service unless you can find a
trained diesel mechanic in your area that knows your brand of diesel vehicle.
Diesel fuel is readily available though you might find occasional stations that only serve gas.
Diesel engines often cost a thousand dollars or more beyond the cost of the same vehicle with a gas engine. This is
because diesel engines must be built substantially stronger than gas engines in order to withstand the higher
compression ratios. This over-building, along with the slower RPM of diesel engines, has the resultant advantage
that diesel engines often last twice as long as gasoline engines as far as wear. (Diesel trucks often drive a million
miles, though they may need to be rebuilt to achieve such mileage.)
There are only about 6 manufacturers that sell diesel-powered vehicles in the USA (Volkswagen, Mercedes, BMW,
Chevrolet Cruze, Jeep, and Audi), plus Chevy, Ford & Dodge sell full-size diesel pick-up trucks, but these pick-up
trucks are definitely overkill for pulling Aliners and similar size trailers. (As of the writing of this article, Dodge is
marketing a pick-up truck using a smaller displacement diesel engine than the other full-size diesel trucks.)
As a point of reference, my 2.0 liter, 4 cylinder Volkswagen diesel station wagon (2014 model) has gotten 30-33 milesper-gallon on our summer 2014 trip while pulling our Aliner Classic trailer from Florida, through Atlanta, Georgia, on to
Buffalo, NY, Scranton, PA and the mountains of Vermont & New Hampshire. Use this figure to compare your current
(gasoline) vehicle to a diesel to see if such an engine would benefit you. Also take into account that published EPA fuel
economy figures are often over-projected, that is, your actual fuel mileage may be 2-4 (or more) miles-per-gallon less
than those published by auto manufacturers. (Did you know that auto manufacturers test and rate their cars for EPA

Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics

mileage? The government does not test vehicles to

establish EPA fuel mileage figures!)

CONCLUSION in selecting a tow vehicle:

CONCLUSION: SELECTING
A TOW VEHICLE

Safety should be your primary consideration. Will your

new tow vehicle be able to safely tow your trailer?
Will your new tow vehicle get you the fuel mileage you
want or need?
Will your tow vehicle need a tow package? Does the model you prefer even offer a tow package?
Will you be able to get maintenance and service for this new tow vehicle? Do it yourself? Is there appropriate service
near your home? Can you get service while on the road traveling?
I suggest you find the owner of the tow vehicle(s) youre considering and ask him/her what their experience has been
regarding towing characteristics and fuel mileage. One source is the AOC: Aliner Owners Club membership listing.
Some entires list the tow vehicle. Always ask for mileage figures based upon actual tank fillings divided by mileage
driven, not just from the cars computer display. (Those may not be as accurate a measure.)
Lighter trailers like Aliners, Chalets, etc. in the range of 1,500-2,500 pounds, may not require a special towing
package, so check with owners of non-towing-package-equipped vehicles VS towing-package-equipped vehicles. It
may not be worth over-buying a vehicle with a tow package.
Find out why a certain vehicle you like may not be towing rated.
Even after taking into account the experiences of others, and information researched, in the end we must each take
responsibility for the decision(s) we make. Rarely is a purchase a 100% perfect decision, but proper research, review,
and information-based decision-making will certainly increase your probability of making the better decision and
one youll enjoy more.

Good luck and happy camping !

Extra pointers to certainly consider
Even the best tow vehicle cannot make up for a poorly designed or installed trailer hitch. Before committing to making
a trailer, tow vehicle or trailer hitch purchase, know that your chosen components will properly interact with each other.
For example, does a hitch manufacturer with a good, solid reputation make a hitch: a) for your tow vehicle and b) is
capable of pulling your designated trailer? When I purchased my first tow vehicle I was limited to only two
manufacturers that made a hitch for my car. I selected what I thought was the better of the two units. Over the course
of the first six years I had to repair the hitch three times. The mounting design was weak and tore the sheet metal of
the cars unibody frame. After I reinforced the unibody frame, the hitch broke in the same place twice due to thinner
steel than was apparently necessary. After I and a fabricator re-designed the hitch at the weak point and reinforced that
section, I never had another repair. When I purchased a new tow vehicle I did my homework before purchase. The
previous manufacturer was out of business (not a surprise) and several other manufacturers designed & built better
hitches, plus the new car (same car model, newer year) redesigned the rear section to better handle towing stresses.
The extra study on my part has given me a rig Im proud to pull with greater confidence & safety. Do your homework !
Selecting A Tow Vehicle - A Comprehensive Investigation of Towing Vehicle Characteristics