Simple ways to extend your

growing season
There is nothing like the taste of freshly picked
produce: peas, carrots, tomatoes etc. All taste
amazing when you grow them yourself, and pick
them fresh from the garden.
However, the majority of locations in the United
States have a short growing season. Just when your
tomatoes, peppers, and squash are ripening, along
comes an early frost, and you can say goodbye to
the garden. In the spring, when the freshly planted
potato shoots are getting their first leaves, and the
tomatoes are establishing themselves, a late frost
can decimate everything in your garden and you
have to start again.
We can show you there are simple ways to extend
the growing season both spring and fall. Ultimately
we finish with an answer we ourselves have tried
and tested successfully over 25 years.
We hope you enjoy and benefit from these
suggestions of how to extend your growing season.
Udgar Parsons
Founder of Growing Spaces

1-800-753-9333
info@growingspaces.com
www.geodesic-greenhouse-kits.com

Climate and Weather

One of the most important things to take into consideration when deciding how to extend your growing season is climate and weather.
To understand climate is to know the average range of temperatures in your location.
Weather is the daily unfoldment of all the different components of the factors that affect your growing of desired crops.
As you may be aware the U.S. has been conveniently divided into numeric climate hardiness zones that tell you a range (within 10
degrees Fahrenheit) of average high and low temperatures. It is really easy to figure out what zone you are in. Simply go to this
website and type in your zip code. Knowing average climatic conditions is essential when determining when to sow seeds, transplant
and harvest your crops.
Climatic change is definitely going on and many areas are becoming warmer and drier while others are becoming wetter and cooler.
This can affect your gardening decisions drastically. It would be helpful to research data to identify climate changes in your area. Here
is a map identifying changes by hardiness zone from 1990 to 2006.
Since there are many microclimates within these broad zones, it is very helpful to be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of
your particular microclimate. As a general rule, temperatures drop about 3.5 degrees per every 1,000 feet in elevation gain, so higher
elevations are commonly cooler later in the spring and earlier in the fall.

Topography
Topography is one of the biggest variables that affects
your garden, and the main reason for the existence
of microclimates. It is very important to understand
how topographic features influence growth potential
in your area and on your particular piece of property.
An example of this is how cold air flows down at night
and settles in valley floors. The hilltops surrounding
the valleys are considerably warmer. I personally live
in a valley and in the winter on a cold night my friends
who live on higher ground consistently report 5 8
Fahrenheit warmer nighttime temperatures.
Local vegetation such as trees and bushes can block and
disperse cooler breezes keeping a garden warmer, which
helps crops grow longer and better. Exposure to wind
can be a serious hazard, especially in the spring when
trying to germinate and protect young seedlings. Some
simple wind protection measures will be outlined in the
technologies section.
If you have a south facing masonry wall somewhere on
your property, you will notice that on sunny days this
warms up and the warmth lasts into the night, giving
plants nearby an extended growing season compared to
other plants not near the wall.
Taking advantage of and strategically creating warm
microclimates can be a useful season-extension
technique. When choosing planting spots outdoors,
consider shade from nearby trees or structures, wind
protection, and sun exposure of the specific planting
area. Places near brick, rock, homes, fences and areas
with good southern exposure generally absorb and
retain heat from the sun, creating a warmer environment
for your plants.
Heres an excellent website with lots of suggestions on
creating microclimates.

Weather
Weather consists of temperature variations, cloud cover,
wind, precipitation, frost or lack thereof. You as the gardener
have to keep a constant eye on the weather and understand
the common weather patterns experienced in your area. An
example of a weather pattern is here in the Rocky Mountains,
where we will often get a warm front with rain and clouds
passing through. This warm front is usually followed by a
cold front with clear skies and rapidly falling temperatures.
If this happens during the night it is very common to
experience below freezing temperatures during the coldest
time of year. This would be an ideal time to apply whatever
crop protection methods you have available.

As a gardener trying to grow as

many days of the year as possible,
it is vital to keep a close track on
the weather patterns as they unfold
throughout the day and night.

Garden Design and Planting Decisions

It is very useful to know the temperature requirements of the plants
you are growing when designing your garden. Some plants prefer
cooler shady conditions while others do well in full sun.
Growing taller plants to the south provides shade for the plants north
of them; examples of these taller plants are sunflowers, Jerusalem
artichokes, tomatoes, climbing beans, corn, peppers, and many
others. Ive used Jerusalem artichokes as a very effective windbreak
planted on the west side to guard from drying winds in the spring.
Raised beds give an opportunity for soil to warm up earlier in the
spring, and the presence of a pond in your garden can help stabilize
temperatures of plants close by. The use of trellises can not only
provide beauty for your garden, but also give extra growing space
and provide shade for plants that may need it.

Choice of Seeds
It has been shown that seeds from
a nursery with a similar climate to
yours often perform better than
seeds produced in a different
climate; it is very useful to know the
location of your seed source nursery.
It is vital to read and follow the
instructions on the seed packet,
especially when youre learning how
to garden. The seed packets give
instructions on ideal germination
temperatures as well as how deep
and far apart to sow the seeds. You
can also learn about how to thin and
transplant each variety from many
seed packets.
If you choose to save your own
seeds, choose seeds from stronger
producing plants that will create
offspring that do well in the climate
you have. Seed saving is very easy
and enjoyable and typically one
plant produces far more seeds than
you can ever use, so you can share
them with your friends.
Take care when saving seeds
from similar families of plants,
i.e. Brassicas like cauliflower and
broccoli, as there is a risk of cross
pollination producing a mixed
variety of offspring. Even melon
and cucumber can cross pollinate
producing a rather unpleasant
tasting melon.

Soil and Compost

Dense and compacted clay soil can
not only be very slow to warm up
in the spring, but can also make
watering problematic. Compacted
soil can stay moist and wet, which
prevents air from getting to the roots,
or it can stay very dry due to the
inability of moisture to penetrate the
soil when you water.
Sandy soil however can drain far
too quickly, creating too dry of an
environment for optimal growth. The
addition of organic matter to both
soil types can help immensely. It is
very important to know your soil type
and amend accordingly. This is a vast
subject in and of itself and merits a
decent amount of study.
Composting of vegetation can be
tricky depending on the climate
present in your location, but it is well
worth taking the trouble to learn
about composting. Not only is it
a wonderful use of all your excess
vegetation (which you are bound
to have), but it is a vital means of
replenishing your soil on a regular
basis. In most regions of the U.S. it
is important to attempt to keep the
compost warm through the winter and
moist enough in the summer. Again it
is a topic that will repay study.
The Compost Guy has a down to
earth approach.

Plant Choices
One of the most important
things to consider when
planning a garden is plant
selection. When you choose the
right plant to put in the right
place, chances of successful
production increase greatly. A
short growing season and cool
nights means that, generally in
an outdoor garden, it doesnt
stay warm enough for a long
enough time to support
coveted warm-season crops like
cucumbers, peppers, beans and
tomatoes. Instead, cool-season
vegetables, including leafy
greens and root crops, are more
productive and easier to grow.
When looking for vegetables
and varieties to try in the
outdoor garden, select those
that thrive in cooler climates
and mature to harvest in fewer
days. Keep in mind that even
short-season plants will need
extra days to mature in cool,
high altitude climates. When
selecting annual vegetables and
herbs, focus on varieties that
require fewer days to mature
and also those that are frost
tolerant. If you are selecting
perennials, look for those that
are winter hardy as they will live
through the winter and regrow
the following season.

Plant Protection: Season Extenders

Season extender is a general term used to refer to any technique or product that protects plants from untimely frosts. Untimely
frosts are generally radiation frosts that occur on clear nights in the absence of insulating cloud cover. Radiation frosts generally occur
in the spring and fall and only bring temperatures down a few degrees below freezing levels, making it worthwhile to protect your
garden. Season-extension products and techniques may also hasten plant growth by trapping heat, providing a warmer environment
for continued plant growth.

Floating Row Covers

These can be blankets, tarps, floating row cover or frost cloths, and are very useful weapons in your fight against frost, drying winds
and hail. If they are light in color and opaque some people leave them in place, but it is important to make sure the plants are not
deprived of the light they need. Most people simply put them over the garden bed as needed to protect against some of the elements
mentioned. Wire hoops over the rows of low growing plants can make it easier to get the row covers on and off. Some people drape
them around their tomato cages to help protect tomatoes against frost or other environmental challenges. Typically they give an extra
3 6F of protection.

Mulch and Straw

The use of mulch, of which straw is a type, can benefit in two ways: in the fall it slows down the rate of soil cooling thus extending the
growing season, whereas in the spring and summer it prevents the soil from drying out as rapidly. If you use hay, make sure it does not
contain weed seeds. The downside of mulch is that it can encourage moisture loving pests such as pill bugs.

Wall of Water

This technology can be very useful when protecting individual frost sensitive plants in the spring, such as tomatoes and peppers. These
are generally fast-growing plants however, and soon outgrow the protection, so the use of these products is limited. They generally
have a short lifespan when exposed to UV radiation. Read more here.

STRUCTURES
Low Tunnels

Creating a low tunnel with a frame

over the garden is another way to
both keep the cold out and hold
warmth in. A low tunnel frame covered
with clear agricultural plastic or row
cover can also be used to protect
plants from cooling wind and deter
hungry herbivores.
The low, spread-out shape of low
tunnel covers makes them ideal
for trapping radiant heat from soil,
although the ends and side of these
covers should be opened during the
day to prevent overheating. On warm
days, it is best to entirely remove the
cover from its frame, whereas on cool
days and warm nights the cover may
be only cracked open. A low tunnel
should be closed on cold nights and
can remain closed on cloudy days.
If managed properly, a low tunnel may
provide 36F of frost protection,
and works well for cool-season crops
that can tolerate light frosts. This
technique may add between two and
six weeks to the growing season in the
fall or spring.
Low tunnels become even more
effective if another heat source or
insulator is added to them, such
as a space blanket, string of C-7
holiday lights, or even a small heater.
There are lots of good descriptions
available online.

Cold Frames

These can be a very simple way of protecting your starts in the spring, but once the heat of the summer comes you risk baking your
plants. Cold frames can be very labor-intensive because of the work involved in monitoring and regulating temperatures. For this
reason we recommend that you place cold frames close to your house where you can check on them often. If you can devise a way
of automatically opening and closing the lid to prevent your plants from overheating, that would be the best option. Cold frames can
range from very simple structures that are made of scrap or used materials to very complex works of art made of high tech materials.

High Tunnels

High tunnels, as well as greenhouse structures, provide greater air insulation and are the most sophisticated methods of season
extension. Both structures allow a gardener to start earlier in the spring, extend the season further into the fall, and even allow for
growth of plants that typically dont grow well in cold climates. These useful structures provide winter protection and trap heat, but
need to be managed for cooling during the summer months and on warm days. The disadvantage of high tunnels is that they can be
challenged by high wind or heavy snow loads. Here is the go-to resource for High Tunnels.

Greenhouses

The original design for greenhouses

was developed in the U.K., which has
a completely different climate from
the U.S. They are usually just season
extenders but certainly stronger and
more wind friendly than high tunnels.
There are many different types of
greenhouses, but most of them have
the same features. They usually get
too hot in the summer, and too cold
in the winter for optimal plant growth.
Because of the lack of insulation,
people have found it costs a lot to heat
them during the winter and cool them
in the summer.
People usually have potting benches or
shelves inside the greenhouse, which
is certainly useful to be able to garden
at waist height. The problem with this
arrangement is that the plants tend to
dry out more quickly and experience
more temperature extremes than when
planted in the garden bed. A good
selection of typical greenhouses can
be found here.

Growing Domes

The Growing Dome is a huge advance

in the world of greenhouses. It is truly
a way of extending your growing
season year round.

Back in the mid-80s various research establishments were

trying to find a way to improve the efficiency of greenhouses.
At the Windstar foundation, founded by John Denver, in
Aspen, Colorado, a research team, along with design input
from Buckminster Fuller, built a geodesic dome greenhouse,
which could grow produce year-round in the harsh climate of
the Rocky Mountains using no extra heat input from outside
sources. The structure was called a Biodome, and, using the
principles of passive solar design, it was able to maintain an
interior temperature 50 higher than the outside ambient
temperature, with no extra heating.
Based on this research, Growing Spaces has been building
the energy efficient Growing Dome greenhouse since 1989.
The built-in passive solar design features enable the Growing
Dome to capture and store the heat of the sun in the day
using an aboveground pond and a central air system. Heat
loss at night is significantly slowed down by the use of four
unique insulating methods.
In the climate of the Rocky Mountains, the Growing Dome is
often able to maintain nighttime temperatures approximately
30 warmer than the outside temperature with no extra heat
input. It also has automatic cooling features that enable it to
grow throughout the summer with little or no cost for cooling.
Rather than having shelves and benches, the unique design of
the Growing Dome enables the owner to create an enclosed
indoor garden with growing beds and pathways. For a
fuller picture of how the Growing Dome is able to do this,
download our free E-book: 9 Reasons a Growing Dome is
Better than a Greenhouse.
We at Growing Spaces are happy to support your gardening
efforts in any way we can. We hope youll enjoy our upcoming
E-book: Enhance your lifestyle with indoor gardening.

1-800-753-9333
info@growingspaces.com
www.growingspaces.com

Udgar Parsons,
Founder of Growing Spaces