Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 7



Serial No. 93878 and later


Never attempt to work on your Jari Mower without first removing the spark plug or wire from spark plug. Never
wear loose clothing near the unit when the engine is operating. Before starting the engine, clear the area of adults,
children and pets. A sudden gust of wind and/or an unexpected move on somebodys part can change what was a safe
situation. Always exercise caution during the operation, handling, parking or storage of your mower. Shutting off and
allowing engine to cool is necessary before refueling. Stop engine before attempting to clean any debris from knife assembly.


Use heavy-duty gun grease every 3 hours of operation. If one grease retainer, such as item #39 used in conjunction with
part requiring grease, grease until grease appears at the retainer. If two grease retainers are used, such as with each
wheel or dual pulley #59, grease until grease appears at both retainers. It is not necessary to remove fender for greasing.
Drive shaft has sealed ball bearings, which do not require greasing.

Jari Serial Number: (located on frame under engine)

Date Purchased:
Engine (2 numbers located on engine in form of decal and/or
stamped into flywheel housing)


Jari Mowers, LLC

54456 Gadwall Rd.
Mankato, MN 56001
Phone: 507-625-3340
Fax: 507-388-3973
Email: info@jarimowers.com



Zerk, straight, (drive in), used in cap screw
#73 on wheel and power unit shaft #35.
Zerk 67 (-threaded) used in dual pulley
assy. #59.
Eccentric pin, used in drive head, shown
immediately behind #103.
Throttle cable, 48 conduit and 52 wire.

309910 Dual wheel and tire assy. (Single), installs same as

single wheel, order two for
replacement of single wheels.
217000 Fence guard and adjustable skid (single), 1 to 4
cutting height, replaces #115 standard skid.
111600 Throttle clip. 2 used on handle bar to support
throttle cable.



The Jari warranty may be invalid unless these instructions are read and followed. For warranty, service, parts and
information on new or used engines, first read engine manual and then, contact engine dealer in your area.
All referrals to left and right are from the operators position.


1. Put eccentric roller item #103 on eccentric pin at the end of drive shaft. It is not necessary, but grease can be applied
to pin.
2. Remove three nuts #131, 3 washers #130 underneath sickle bar and insert the three bolts #129 along with bar #107
into three holes in the mounting plate provided on #2 while guiding roller into channel of knife head #132. Replace
washers and nuts and tighten firmly.
3. Remove cotter key from divider rod #104 and insert rod into cylinder provided on knife head #132 with hole in rod
going first. When hole in rod appears at the bottom of cylinder, insert cotter key and spread.
4. Attach handlebars #74 to upper part of frame #1 where two holes provided with two cap screws #75, washers #76 and
nuts #77. See front page also.
5. Bring throttle cable on handle bar forward ahead of engine between frame and wheel forming a loop to come back to
engine. Throttle hookups provided at the base of the engine on the left side. Throttle cable does not attach directly to
carburetor. See engine manual for details. Depending on engine used if throttle cable clamp mounted in hole toward the
rear of engine such as in the Briggs, move it to the forward hole. Rotate the two throttle cables clips on the handle bar to
keep cable away from wheel.
6. Connect control rod #80 to bracket #82 with bolt #83, washer #84 and nut #85.
7. Install knobs #53 on lever #52 and #81 on lever # 78. Leave lever #78 in the down position.
8. Drive pinion #40 is adjusted to tire #70 by 2 nuts #43 located on lower control rod #42 before and after rod goes
through bracket #82. With lever #78 still in the down position ground spark plug, engage sickle bar handle lever #52
(same as belt tighten lever) by moving it toward center of unit or run position. Pull starter cord on engine slowly until
a drive pinion tooth is at its closest proximity to tire. Turn tire or wheel by hand until one groove of the tire is directly
across from pinion tooth. Concentrate only on one tire and pinion other side will adjust automatically. Pull back and
up on lever #78. Pinion tooth should depress rubber in groove of tire slightly (1/32 is adequate). If further adjustment
is required, loosen bottom nut #43 and turn top nut #43 clockwise to increase depression in tire or counterclockwise
to decrease depression. When top nut is set, tighten bottom nut against bracket and top nut. Maintain this adjustment
as mower is used. If traction is doubtful with above setting, read the remainder of this manual and then start unit on a
cement floor. Adjust throttle to about speeds, engage sickle bar lever #52, take hold of handle bar with one
hand, pull back and up on lever #78 and attempt to hold unit back with both hands. Be prepared because if above
adjustments have been followed, this procedure will remove all doubts about traction. Assembler may notice a degree of
flexibility in control rods and the drive pinion mechanism. In use, if pinion tooth contacts top of tire instead of groove, the
flexibility with accompanying tension allows the pinion tooth to fall in the groove immediately. If one pinion lags behind
the other movement to engage tires, squirt penetrating oil in the various pivot points (not grease type bearings in #36 and
#37) of the mechanism to remove paint. Engage and disengage lever #78 several times to help remove paint or stand
at the side of the unit and grasp control rods #42 and #80 with fingers while hooking thumbs over the handle bar and
squeezing the control rods toward handle bar several times. Do this from both sides of the machine.
9.Check all nuts, bolts and set screws for tightness except as noted for the setscrews #127 located in the knife clips #125.
After 2-3 hours of operation recheck all bolts, nuts and set screws for tightness and there-after, check periodically as
10.Check unit over for adequate lubrication See front page.


1. Read engine manual and fill oil as instructed.

2. Your Jari Monarch is equipped with a sickle bar handle lever #52 for your convenience in starting the engine.

By pulling this lever to the right slightly or start position the belts are loosened enabling the engine to be started without any
operating load. Put lever #78 in down position.
3. Close choke completely and pull starter rope once. Open choke slightly and pull rope again. When engine starts,
gradually open choke until completely open.
4. With engine running, push sickle bar lever #52 towards center of unit or run position. By pulling back and up on lever #78,
your unit is self-propelled.


1.CAUTION: The sickle bar handle lever is designed as an aid to easy starting and possibly an emergency. Do not engage
or disengage either of the levers and attempt to remove debris from any part of the unit STOP THE ENGINE to remove
2.When the mower is operating, disengaging either lever will stop forward motion. Disengaging sickle bar lever will stop both
the sickle bar and forward motion.
3.Never allow engine to operate with sickle bar lever disengaged for long. Engine pulley will build up heat in belt and destroy
4.When operating mower, set throttle where required (see mowing tips), leave sickle bar lever engaged and use
self-propelled lever to start, stop and turn or maneuver. You can, but it is not necessary to adjust throttle.


1. Power unit belt #34 (longest belt of 3) has automatic spring tension and requires no tightening.
2. Dual pulley belt #62 (next longest belt) is tightened by first loosening the engine mounting bolts #97, and placing the
sickle bar lever #52 in the run position and then, turning the bottom nut #54 clockwise after loosening top nut #54. Do not
over tighten belt allow a slight slack. A slight slack can be checked by grasping one side of the belt in the middle between
the pulleys with the thumb and forefinger and attempting to move belt from left to right and right to left. If belt feels taut or
similar to a bowstring, it is too tight. Leave bolts #97 loose.
3. To tighten engine pulley belt #63 (smallest belt), leave sickle bar lever in run position, push down on right side of engine
until engine pulley belt is as tight as dual pulley belt and then tighten bolts #97.
4. To further check for belt tightness, listen for a squealing noise when cutting under average conditions it most likely
indicates the belts are too loose. Belts should squeal or smoke when hard objects such as stones or possibly a hard wood
sapling encountered in the sickle bar (see mowing tips). Recognize that an improperly adjusted sickle bar could also
cause properly adjusted belts to squeal (see sickle bar adjustments). In any event, once you are satisfied, the belts are too
loose; you can refine your belt adjustments with the following procedure. Place the sickle bar lever in the start or slightly right
position and leave it in this position, loosen top nut #54, start engine and turn bottom nut #54 clockwise until knife assembly
in sickle bar starts to creep. When creeping point reached, turn nut counterclockwise until creeping stops and wait a few
minutes to see if creeping starts again. If it does, turn nut counterclockwise until creeping stops completely.
Stop engine, place sickle bar lever in the run position and feel belts for tightness as described. If they appear too tight
slightly turn bottom nut counterclockwise until you being to feel a slight slack in belt. Retighten top nut against bottom nut.


1. To replace engine pulley belt #63 and dual pulley belt #62 put sickle bar lever #52 in the start position and turn old belt
off dual pulley #59.
2. To replace power unit belt #34 remove fender #91 and belts #62 and #63. Remove left drive pinion #40 and slide lower
control rod #42 out of the bracket assembly #36. The lower idler assembly arm #28 has a hole in its most forward point.
Insert a screwdriver in the hole and pry up to remove belt from lower idler pulley #30 to obtain sufficient slack for belt
removal. Install new belt by placing it in the smaller pulley of the twin pulley #23 and slip the outer end of the belt over the
power unit shaft #35 (not pulley). Next, place belt in the flat groove on the top of bottom idler pulley #30 by giving the belt
a twist so that the backside of belts rests in the flat groove. Insert V groove on top of upper idler pulley #33. Place belt in
power unit pulley last by placing screwdriver in hole of idler arm again to obtain sufficient slack.


See speed information under mowing tips also. If your Monarch is equipped with a 4 O.D. engine pulley used for general
purpose mowing and you find the unit moves too fast for your mowing conditions, you can purchase locally a 3 O.D. a
groove engine pulley of equal grade along with a 29 A groove belt to slow the unit down. Manufactures code # for belts is
A-27. For assistance in purchasing, contact dealer where you purchased unit or a local hardware or automotive store.


1. The secret to good cutting lies in sickle bar adjustment. A well-adjusted sickle bar sounds similar to a sewing machine.
One that is too loose or too tight clatters. When machine is new, paint may cause binding in the area where knife clips
#125 contact knife assembly #124. Put oil in this area before starting machine. After a few minutes of operation, recheck
adjustments as shown in sickle bar diagram.

2. It is not necessary to use the full throttle setting provided on your Jari. Generally, to speeds is adequate to cut
whatever is at hand. Start with speed and if engine lugs, gradually, increase speed to point where engine does not lug.
Over the years as the engine wears, it will take more throttle setting to accomplish to speeds.
3. When mowing in rough terrain, handle bars will gyrate. Do not fight handlebars-allow them to gyrate. Guide the mower
with one hand. Some operators prefer to walk to the rear and one side of the mower instead of directly behind mower.
4. Always take a full cut with your sickle bar. Otherwise, you will plug it material, which has cut and is now laying in a
horizontal attitude. Recognize the same horizontal situation if you decide to make a second pass over an area just cut.
Also, watch shafts and pulleys for wrapping under these conditions. After area grows back, the situation resolves itself as
horizontal material settles to the bottom.
5. When mowing under objects such as branches and fence rails, use outside perimeter of sickle bar. If you use the center,
you may snap the divider rod #104 off. If divider rod should disappear when cutting heavy material, place a rubber washer
or piece of wiper hose on the divider rod between the cotter pin and the bottom of the cylinder on the
Knife head.
6. Sometimes when mowing, the point of a guard #111, 112 or 113 will contact the center of a thick piece of brush and mower
will hesitate. To counteract, jiggle handle bar from side to side and mower will continue.
7. In the interest of your SAFETY and engine requirements, follow this dual-purpose tip when mowing slopes. Be
certain crankcase is filled with oil to assure lubrication as you mow across the face of the slope. Make 2-minute passes
and when turning around, carefully walk above your mower. At the top of your turn, push down on handles bars to level up
8. If you encounter hard wood saplings up to 1 3/8 in size, release self-propelled lever and gradually push mower into
sapling. Knife assembly will saw its way through
9. If sickle bar lodged under a rock or heavy object, do not push down on handlebars. Pull unit straight back. Failure to do
so will force knife head away from drive head and lead to repairs.


1. Add gas additive and run mower for 30 minutes.

Jari Mowers, LLC

54456 Gadwall Rd.
Mankato, MN 56001
Phone: 507-625-3340
Fax: 507-388-3973
Email: info@jarimowers.com