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*
s
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'
ILIl[8TJLA.TIOlr8.
TMJE KIFJE jtND
WOMKS
BY/
'
.
TUT.
i:...:
ri.h.l.
s I'KKJ-VI.
FINDEN'S
ILLUSTRATIONS
OF THE
LIFE
AND WORKS
OF
LORD BYRON.
WITH ORIGINAL AND SELECTED INFORMATION ON THE
SUBJECTS OF THE ENGRAVINGS
BY
W.
BROCKEDON,
VOL.
*c.
I.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET:
SOLD ALSO BY
CHARLES
TILT,
FLEET STREET.
1833.
Cob
2,
LONDON:
J.
ADVERTISEMENT.
making up
Eight Numbers
Landscape
the
first
and Portrait
of these
Illustrations of
LORD BYRON
in
a manner
into a
less de-
sultory than
publication,
their
The
in a
First
is
complete form
Numbers
tion,
Volume
of the
be adapted
Work
in
VILLENEUVE.
TITLE-VIGNETTE.
Drawn
THE approach
by C. Stanjield, A.R.A.
to the lake of
Geneva from
which seldom
The
fails to arrest
lofty
Italy,
is
on
one of
the atten-
the castle of
Yet
it
was
lady in
it
fast
asleep
fast
excellent!"
LIST OF PLATES.
Drawn
Subject.
VILLENEUVE (TITLE
GIBRALTAR
LACHIN Y GAIR
LACHIN Y GAIR
MISS
C. STANFIELD, A.H.A.
J.
D.GLENNIE.
F. G. ROBSON.
CHAWORTH
BELEM CASTLE,
From a Sketch by
by
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
VIGNETTE)
F. STONE.
LISBON
(ORIGINAL MINIATURE.)
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
W.
CINTRA
C. STANFIELD, A.H.A.
CAPT. ELLIOT.
MAFRA
D.ROBERTS.
C. LANDSEER.
MAID OF SARAGOZA
F. STONE.
CADIZ
CAGLIARI,
PAGE.
LIEHT.-COL. BATTY.
W.
W.
SARDINIA
ETNA
MALTA
WESTALL,
PURSER.
A.R.A.
J.M.W.TURNEH.R.A.
PATRASS
ITHACA
SANTA MAURA
G. CATTERMOLE.
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
CORFU
YANINA
ALI PACHA
C. STANFIELD, A.H.A.
DELPHI
CORINTH
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
F. STONE.
C. STANFIELD,
A. R.A.
ATHENS
OLYMPIUS,^
W.
PAGE.
T. ALLASON.
W.
PAGE.
STANFIELD) A-B A
.
PAGE
MAID OF ATHENS
F. STONE.
FRANCISCAN CONVENT, ATHENS.... C. STANFIELD,
CAPE COLONNA
W. PURSER.
TEMPLE OF MINERVA,
)
CAPE COLONNA,
(ORIGINAL SKETCH.)
W. PAGE.
TEMPLE OF JUPITER
AT ATHENS
W. PAGE.
W. PAGE.
W. PAGE.
W. PAGE.
W. PAGE.
T. ALLASON.
A.H.A.
W.
PAGE.
T. ALLASON.
D. ROBERTS,
A.R.A.
W.
D. ROBERTS,
A.H.A.
R.COCKERELL,
PAGE.
A.R.A.
LIST OF PLATES.
Drawn
Subject.
SPOLETO
From a Sketch by
by
J.D.HARDING.
PIAZETTA,
S.
VENICE
MARGUERITA COGNI
VERONA
PROOT.
G. H. HAHLOWE.
W.
CALCOTT, B.A.
H. GASTENEAU.
H. GASTENEAU.
CHAMOUNI
J.
D. HARDING.
CASTLE OF CHILLON
J.
D. HABDING.
GENEVA
J-
D. HARDING.
ADA
NEWTON.
F. STONE.
The following
W.
W.
W.
PAGE.
PAGE.
PAGE.
(ORIGINAL MINIATURE.)
(ORIGINAL MINIATURE.)
Vignettes,
complete edition, in
have been added to the 4to edition of these Illustrations.
Drawn
Subject.
by
From a Sketch by
CADIZ
TEPELEEN, THE PALACE
SAUNDEF.S.
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
W.
OF ALI PACHA
PURSER.
CONSTANTINOPLE
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
MARATHON
C. STANFIELD, A.R.A.
A STREET IN ATHENS
THE WENGERN ALPS
THE COLOSSEUM, FROM
J.
D. HARDING.
FARNESE
C. STANFIELD, A.H.A.
THE ORTO
HAHDINO
W.
'
J. M. W. TURNER, H.A. W.
MARIA DELLA SPINA, PISA
W.
J. D. HARDING.
THE HELLESPONT
W. WESTALL, A.R.A.
NEWSTEAD ABBEY
W. WESTALL, A.R.A.
THE FOUNTAIN AT NEWSTEAD
HUCKNELL CHURCH, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.. W. WESTALL, A.R.A.
J. M. W. TDKNEB, B.A. W.
THE PLAIN OF TROY
J. M. W. TURNER, R.A.
THE GATE OF THESEUS, ATHENS
J. M. W. TURNER, R.A.
BACHARACH, ON THE RHINE
J. M. W. TURNER, R.A.
THE CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO
STA
PAGE.
HULLMANDEL.
PAGE.
PAGE.
PAGE.
GIBRALTAR.
Drawn
"
by J.
M. W.
Turner, R.A.
" THE
promontory of Gibraltar
Calpe) derives
its
name from
ii.
st.
(the ancient
the Arabic,
'
22.
Mount
Jebal al
been
erroneously
It
Mount
No
origin, are
site
still
found at Gibraltar.
The Moorish
castle,
whose massy towers are seen above the northern exto an Arabic
tremity of the town, was built, according
inscription
still visible,
Walid,
It is chiefly
GIBRALTAR.
and the whole incrusted with cement of a
finer quality
hundred and
possession of
fifty years,
On
it.
when
cannonaded Gibraltar
fleets,
24th
after a
feeble
resistance,
summoned on
since remained.
Its
importance
surren-
this fortress
the
has ever
it
from
so great,
its
commanding
passage which connects the Mediterranean with the Atlantic, that attempts were made
the
in
in that
it
was
and
finally,
so nobly defended
in
amount
The
first
GIBRALTAR.
by the arrival of a powerful fleet this
was twice effected
once by Admiral Rodney, and subrelieved only
At
in 1782, the
last,
The
Mediterranean
still
Lord Byron
"
says,
to Seville
Byron
left
19th of August.
over to Africa
straits, it
does not
of
made him
its
determined defence
was
it
caprice that
on
GIBRALTAR.
and the whole incrusted with cement of a finer quality
and arches are of brick- work. These walls
the
:
cupolas
so indurated
by time, that,
the enemy's
from
the shot
Gibraltar
hundred and
possession
of
fifty years,
it.
On
when
24th;
after a
feeble
resistance,
commanding
the
Its
importance
surren-
this fortress
is
it
has ever
from
so great,
in that
its
memorable period
when
it
was
and
made
finally,
so nobly defended
garrison varying
by General Elliot, with
from five thousand to seven thousand men.
amount
in
The
first
and 1781.
regular
GIBRALTAR.
relieved only
was twice
effected
At
last,
in
1782, the
discharge
red-hot shot from the
garrison fired and destroyed the
flotilla.
Mediterranean
6th,
still
In a
letter to
a journey through
Portugal and a part
We left
to Seville
Lisbon,
Byron
left
19th of August.
over to Africa
straits, it
does not
The
siege
record
of
made him
of Saragoza
its
determined defence
was
it
caprice that
on
GIBRALTAR.
the gallant and unparalleled defence of Gibraltar by
Elliot,
the British,
to so
when
humanity by
much danger
wreck and
enemies from
is
common
in-
more
if
unmentioned by
LACHIN Y GAIR.
Drawn
"
by C. Stanfield,
A.R.A.from a Sketch by
the Rev. J.
let the
me
Though
roses
D. Glennie.
still
Round
Ah
there
As
I
my young
My
On
their white
sought not
my home
till
star
have
And
rides
on the wind
o'er his
own Highland
vale.
LACHIN Y GAIR.
Round Loch na Garr
Winter presides
in his cold
icy car
my
fathers
Yet
still
England
flow'rs
and majestic
of dark Loch na Garr
The
you,
Oh
I left
!"
Hours of Idleness.
Highlands
and
after
his
it
their residence in a
of Ballater,
an attack
mother
was
for
either at
they took up
a favourite
summer
and
Though
this house,
its
own
a short distance of
it,
it
stands,
memory
however,
is
at all
of a poet.
all
worthy
Within
those features of
LACHIN Y GAIR.
wildness and beauty which
mark
may
many
Dee
Here
be commanded.
not
afterwards,
years
in which,
he commemorated
this
is
J.
in the
Highlands
as lay
inspi-
be traced.
and takes
lies at
nite,
name from a
little
lake, or lochan,
which overhang
is
it
an elevation of 1,300
at
be unfathomable
but
it
is
nor
concealed
under the
even when
passes a long
debris of the
it
feet.
way
which
This lake
to
its
mountain
reaches the
heather
submerges
and the moss, beneath which the ear alone traces
LACHIN Y GAIR.
its
foam sometimes
The Rev.
amidst
betrays
D. Glennie, who
J.
its
dark
visited the
its
white
recesses.*
scenes in
"
We
seventy,
whom we
look, and
in
had heard
sport for
had good
he observed a man on
at last
it
what
to
shifted
make
his
He was
his
evidently
" As
By
When
In
it
its
willows,
rushes reveal'd
the light
of its billows
it,
it."
LACHIN Y GAIR.
no canny,' added the old man, and nobody
has ever fished in that loch since." In these regions of
'
something
mist, such
make
to
is
left,
Scenery," taken from near the same spot, and are thus
described in that
work
" The
pass of Ballater (which
lies
have been produced by some great convulsion of nature, which has rent a mountainous ridge
and appears
into
two
at the
to
parts,
and
left
bottom of which
defile is
of the mountain.
The
remarkable
for
strife,
it is
side of this
valley
Each
the road.
river
Dee
is
from Ballater
LACHIN Y GAIR.
level
moor,
falls at
once
of
it is
be bottomless.
" Lachin
y Gair, which occasionally displays its
lofty and perpendicular cliffs over the ridges in the
we
as
broad
its
shortened by perspective.
Dick Lauder,
Thomas
and
its
"The
village of Ballater,
formed of regular
streets,
crossing each other at right angles, covers a considerable extent of ground immediately below the bend of
Mr. Telford,
The
by
feet,
LACHIN Y GAIR.
the centre of the great square to the opposite bank, in
Dee
rose gradually
when
same
the
was observed
bitants,
now
is
its
till
partial
thinking that
all
invalids
The
neighbourhood.
Ballater
and other
the river
This was
in the village
was without some inmate of more than ordinary consequence. Among these was a lady, who was suddenly
disturbed, about half an hour after midnight, by voices
ominous words,
'
'
flood,'
'
deluge,'
window
and the
drooned,' and
'
hae
LACHIN Y GAIR.
a number of passengers as
so great
Nor was
defiance.
laws at
manner of bestowing
the
set the
Many
a fair creature
passed,
till
and proud of
to a quadrille.
how many
It is impossible to say
of
away by
"
Still
fled for
refuge
Still
was
it,
so
that
was the
to be seen floundering
In the midst of a terrified group of grown daugh-
corpulent,
till
the good
LACHIN Y GAIR.
down
into
'
embraces.
he, as he
'
you catch
if
breathing
this gate,
I'll
alloo ye to
me coming
a-watering again
mak' a waterkelpie
me.'
o'
tall, spectre-like
fragment of a
tri-
rising
from
itself,
nature by which
but
it is
surrounded.
for,
when
it
might
LACHIN Y GAIR.
be a city for aught the traveller knows to the contrary.
It
On
diversified vale.
among
trees
in the
rich
and
and divided
off
Pass of Ballater.
variety of slopes
tower of
tance,
Knock
till
and woods,
;
is
and behind
the prospect
is
seen the
it
tall
old hunting-
saw
it
the
"
'
poem,
so entitled,
still
"
Sighs for the valley of dark Loch-na-gar."
LACHIN Y GAIR.
Drawn
"
He who
first
by F. G. Robson.
And
Long have
But
The
infant rapture
me
still
And Highland
Island, canto
THESE
of
Lord
lines are in a
Byron's
poem
death,
his
ii.
St.
12.
" When
feelings and his memory.
very young," he
"
about eight years of age, after an
adds in a note,
attack of the scarlet fever at Aberdeen, I was removed,
by medical advice, into the Highlands
and from
this
LACHIN Y GAIR.
period
date
my
love of mountainous
countries.
eifect,
miniature, of a mountain, in
returned to Cheltenham,
cannot
describe."
" Where
it
"
Byron
as
was the
same peculiar
new and
inspiring circumstances,
and with
accessories
which an imagination
its full
in
the
all
vigour and
and present combine to make the enchantment comand never was there a heart more borne away
plete
;
by
a
poem
In
" he traces
the
his
quoted,-
all
and
remembrances than
to classic
ciations
his
to those
less
LACH1N Y GAIR.
And
in his ramhles
of snow,
dawn
From mountain
I
to
with
mountain
my dog
I
as
my
guide,
bounded along
And heard
Hours of
It
scenes,
as
the
Idleness.
view which
in the
Grampian range.
Gair
rises
The
left,
Dee
is
middle distance,
Grampians,
in the
Invercauld
in a flat
and
is situ-
fertile
LACHIN Y GAIR.
have a more prolonged ascent, and are invested with
the deep green of Scotch
fir,
which
eminences that
rise
to the south
The
sides
an extensive
forest of large
and ancient
it
far
is
elegant contour,
for
stretches horizontally to a
highest pinnacle
is
diversified
The
peculiar
another circumstance
from
its
the
acuteness of
in
moun-
mense perpendicular
cliffs
impressive grandeur to
its
north-eastern aspect.
This
its
height
is
from 950
to
1300
feet.
situation
LACHIN Y GAIR.
hills.
On
the west
is
it
lofty
the
those obstructions to
which the
inferior
to the spectator
may
afford, its
a display of
altitude
its
surmounts
majestic form,
eminences contiguous
to
it
present
Grampian chain."
,,
SUB e
(Paoll
AN
EHLW:<S>IIWfflt
ORK-JNAI. AT THE
AOE
tV wa* MB
The ocean
\i<
Uir
rivt-i-
OF 17
lift-
MISS CHAWORTH.
Drawn by F.
"
in love with
M. A.
it
C.,
and never
without.
Lord Byron
well."
THE
it,
my
Stone,
told
I recollect
and
it
is
as
Diary.
had upon
from
to
first
last,
directly in
expressions of his
ter,
feature
upon
the
in
his characlife
of this
extraordinary man.
"
It
was
we have
it
ment which
feeling
sunk
young
so
" that
his
to give
a colour
That unsuccessful loves are genethe most lasting, is a truth, however sad, which
rally
Moore,
life.
it.
MISS
To
CHAWORTH.
I fear,
perfect
innocence and
it
in his heart."
and the
The
of his
visit,
com-
chiefly in her
pany, he drank deep of fascination, and laid the foundation of that unfortunate affection
life,
and
lasted his
own
possessed of
much
personal beauty
her
which
was the
affection of a
boy
It
for
made
one
was impossible
and
to
circumstances attending
trifled
affections
who
it,
MISS
never intended to
when he took
CHAWORTH.
Byron used
realise.
say, that
to
you,"
" I
parting with her,
suppose you will be Mrs. Cha" I
*
?"
Her
answer
worth
was,
hope so." His recollection of this scene
his
in one of
Standing upon a
in the
hill,
hues of youth
a gentle
hill,
As
But a most
living landscape,
Of woods and
cornfields,
Was
smoke
the hill
Of trees,
it
for
some
CHAWORTH.
MISS
Not by the
man
Fair as herself
And
And
in youth.
the eve of
womanhood
that
Upon
He
it till it
She was
his voice
For
his
Which
colour'd
all his
The ocean
touch of hers,
his
objects
was
she
his life,
upon a tone,
blood would ebb and
all
his
as a brother
him
Her
infant friendship
share
to her he
but no more
in the
flow,
his heart
Even
hers,
he had ceased
Which terminated
And
in hers
To
he had look'd
was
'twas
much,
name
left
MISS
Of
CHA WORTH.
a time-honour'd race.
It
was a name
and why
pleased him, and yet pleased him not
Time taught him a deep answer
when she loved
Which
And on
Looking
the
summit of that
hill
she stood
flew.
He
sat
Words which
then he lean'd
With a convulsion
And
as he paused
He
moment
MISS
CHAWORTH.
steps
From out
he pass'd
ment
" 'Twere
long to tell, and vain
The tale of one who scorns a
And
there
Which
is little
I've seen
suit
my
in that tale
suffer'd
Philosophy to
tell.
tear
better
'Twould
to hear
Wear
When
she and
As fond and
Have seen
Ask
if
in
I felt
no secret pain.
MISS
CHAWORTH.
Yet
felt
Have
shew'd, alas
without design,
kiss'd, as if
And
woman's slave
to
each caress,
in
the less."
When
was brought into the room, he started involuntarily, and with the utmost difficulty suppressed
hostess,
To
moment we
his
emotion.
are
feeling
his
sensations at that
" Well
That
For
still
my
Warmly,
let
as
When
I
it
was wont
and
blest
to do.
'twill
impart
Oh
them pass
Would
Thy husband's
Some pangs
But
I feel
hate him,
if
how my
heart
infant smiled,
mother's sake.
MISS
and
I kiss'd it,
CHAWORTH.
repress'd
my
But then
And
had
it
its
they were
sighs
mother's eyes,
all to
My
I
Had
My
seated
till
heart in
Yet was
My
quench'd at length
Nor knew,
all,
calm
my
by thy
boyish flame
knew
to tremble
We met,
the same.
the time
were a crime
Away
!
The
Oh
One
side,
save hope,
But now
where
My
is
foolish heart,
be
still,
or break."
" Our
Again, in 1821, in his Diary, he writes:
union would have healed feuds in which blood had
MISS
CHAWORTH.
it
it
in years (she
heart,
is
the result?"
" Our
meetings were stolen
ones, and a gate leading from Mr. Chaworth's grounds
to those of my mother was the place of our interviews
unalterable
affection
was
volatile
all
on
was
and laughed at
me her picture, and that was something
Had
upon.
my
serious
she liked
treated
of
she
my
me as a younger brother, and
me as a boy she, however, gave
side.
life
Many
to
make
verses
different."
Those
beginning,
" And
wilt
am
low ?"-
And"
When man
Again
" Tis done
and shivering
in the gale."
Works.
MISS
What
CHAWORTH.
is,
worth married a
man
my
I
own.
offered.
paying her a
more
me
for
many
not to do
me
when an
occasion
when my
influence over
years,
sister,
who
of
persuaded
it."
it is
several years,
to
vigour to
resist.
BELEM CASTLE,
LISBON.
Drawn
"
by C. Stanfield, A.R.A.
On, on the
vessel
And winds
flies,
the land
is
New
gone,
fifth,
And Cintra's
And Tagus dashing onwards
to the deep,
And
And
anon,
make
shores descried
rustics reap."
St.
i.
14.
Cape Feizerao,
is
the
Rock of
Lisbon,'
Penha convent
is
the
is
of ele-
about
situated (and
which may be
clearly
that height.
The
beneath.
the
be something
may
less
feet
is
coast
is
short
up
way
into
the mountainous ridge, extending towards the northeast, in the direction of Cintra,
Serra
remarkable
is
for
The whole
and
situated
on
its
the Atlantic
The
of Cintra'
is
commands a view
of
glorious
down a
Eden
'
da Guia
S.
is
Guincho,
S.
Braz,
whose low
flat
beach
is
situated the
who
The
chief residence of
the
of the Tagus
up to Lisbon, is at Cascaes.
and
the Torre de Santo Juliao
place
da Barra, a distance of five miles, there are no less
Between
this
than eight
St. Julian is
The
castle of
commands
the north-
The entrance
"
to the
Portuguese pilot
Tagus
thus described
is
now came on
upon the
captain to take him, than for any use which seemed to
be made of his services. It was blowing a hard gale
rently
it
obligation
remarkable
sea.
line
of the Serra
de Cintra.
intersected
BELEM CASTLE,
LISBON.
summer
residences, of the
On
one
is
continued scene also of towns, detached houses, gardens, and cultivated grounds, in delightful succession.
I
up the
river, the
we advanced
'
simoom's awful
blast,'
and
and
it
tide
which form the bar (called the north and south Cachop),
the former of which is narrower than the other, and is
marked
that extending
space,
tide
St.
is
more
to the south,
and
offering a wider
The
state of the
may
is
at
be considered
BELEM CASTLE,
LISBON.
of land in the river
Tagus.
"
We now
office is
came
Belem, where an
which enter
as well as an establishment of
officers,
health
officers,
" Belem
defended by a battery in
three stories,
is
high-water
we were
British
From
and
front,
visited
at
troops
by the
the
all
police
and health
moment occupying
grand beyond
ficent
is
conception
and
to
at
Here
officers
the castle.
to the east is
do the magni-
description
would be
perfectly inadequate.
The breadth
and
British
in different states of
descending
water
the
down
equipment
at
batteries, villages
and vineyards
terrupted line
anchor
swiftly
Belem
to Lisbon,
running
under the ele-
Portuguese sovereigns,
then the beauteous city
itself,
with
is
its
and
erected;
domes and
we were
in Portugal,
Belem Castle
when
and having
to
to
little
LISBON,
Her image
Which
floating
first
unfold
on that noble
Of mighty
A
Who
Page.
tide,
of gold,
poets vainly pave with sands
And
W.
was
ride
allied,
:
To
for celestial
this
town,
seems to be,
down
No
personage of high or
Doth care
mean degree
i.
st.
16, 17.
LISBON.
IT
is difficult
who has
noticing, that
beautiful
its
situation
and
written
and abominations of
this
worse
Life
an opportunity of judging of
vines
of most picturesque
the
finally,
from Vimeira,"
not, until
its
of the
now,
legion
the city
the
hills,
near Belem
of windmills
itself,
so
appearance from
the Tagus.
side
it
Rough Sketches
fair
to
conven-
and,
fail
Besides, Lisbon
in toto.
is
far
more
a stranger disappointed
and
its
able pens.
when he
river
How
lands and
after hour,
and
filth,
rejoice
in
which the
Instead of
it
Above the
one of the
finest
LISBON.
down
But
the Tagus.
this,
taste.
Portuguese
it
appears,
to
quite foreign to
is
bits
to
all this,
happy
to the
here, because
loves oranges,
own
and
and
swims
on an
it,
in the
ass or
Tagus
in writing
"
says,
am
very
my
all across at
like their
is
it
pistols),
once, and
I rides
but what
Of the
particular scene
the
spot, in his
Cities of
Europe,"-
"
cliffs,
which extend
From
we have
a panoramic
LISBON.
of views
series
of incomparable
To
the Tagus.
tinuing
its
and forming a
hills,
is
seen con-
and
estuary,
the
seen covering
is
brilliant border to
Bugio
To
grandeur.
St.
Julian and of
bounded by a long
of
a vast
To
Almada
slope
hills,
is
down
into a
which there
till,
is
at a distance
the west.
posed
to
castle of Cezimbra
towards
is
sup-
most distant
hill
on the adjoining
da Monte. The
on that
hill,
castle
farther to the
right
St.
is
side.
little
right,
hill
yet
on the
hill
LISBON.
and
in
its
front, close
Commercio
these,
or custom-
of edifices.
Numerous
Almada
in
the foreground,
interesting landscape."
CINTRA.
Drawn
" Lo
Eden
Cintra's glorious
In variegated maze of
Ah me
intervenes
mount and
glen.
Who to
The
unruffled deep,
The
Mix'd
in
" THE
village of Cintra, about
capital,
in
is
i.
fifteen miles
st.
18, 19.
from the
Europe
it
CINTRA.
On
cistern within
its
it.
From
this
and melancholy
convent of Mafra
cannot, without a
many eminences
little
What
mountain.
mine of loadstone
it,
it
in
were
which were
same
deep, he found a
species.
fine vein
to be shut
is
further without
propping as he excavated.
expense, ordered
feet
up."
Government
capable
of being illustrated
?
researches
by electrico-magnetic
All travellers seem to
agree upon the strikingly
beautiful effect of the first appearance of Cintra.
Kinsey describes
it
Thus
CINTRA.
"
We
which a
road,
at length
little
began
chapel
expectations, with
its
to
is
above the
forest scenery of
where nature
is
garb, extending
down
reflected at the
moment
in
to the sea,
entirely burnt
up and
fainting
When
asto-
Lisbon
But
all
who
to their readers, to
whom
and pure
air, is
made
to follow
their nobility."
MAFRA.
Drawn
a Sketch by C. Landseer.
by D. Roberts, from
Where dwelt
And
moment
claim delay,
revel
to
i.
st.
29.
letter to his
mother,
it
"
is
the palace of
might be of any
and understand
large revenues, are courteous enough,
Latin so that we had a long conversation. They have
;
a large library,
and asked me
if
The palace
of
Mafra
is
MAFRA.
of vows
of those
the
at
kingdom
" Mafra
sequence of a
to Saint
Anthony
It
is
a most stupendous
much more
vestry, consistory,
church the
fine
palace
its
extent
is
The convent
The
it
for
Here
very spacious and handsome.
centre pride and
and
a
poverty, folly
arrogance;
is
stately palace
MAFRA.
for supercilious priests!"
in
"
Travels
Major Dalrymple's
p. 135.
Portugal Illustrated,"
p.
452, says,
we
at length effected
by a steep ascent,
is
prodigious
imposing magnitude
and
Escurial of Portugal.
it
Mafra
is
is
is
view of the
sea.
It
was con-
Moors,
who
On
no
this
women
employed
was to eclipse, by
its
an
Rome,
edifice that
Escurial.
glories of the Spanish
The
its
construction
was
embellishments were
MAFRA.
fieent
grandeur of
its
effect
This vastness
it
admirably
is
at the
if
a cloud could
same moment.
J'runti
~by
F Sta
Iff
A SB
wlio ahall
'
had
VOTI
known
hear
in fcer
softer lior!*
MAID OF SARAGOZA.
Drawn
"
Is
it
Hangs
And,
all
Sung
And
she,
whom
war
with dread,
Appall'd, an owlet's larum chill'd
Now
The
falchion flash,
and
warm dead
Ye who
Oh
Heard her
veil,
in
Her
lover sinks
Her
chief
Her
fellows flee
The
foe retires
is
slain
fills
MAID OF SARAGOZA.
Who
Who
can appease
What maid
Who
retrieve
when man's
fall ?
flushed hope
hang
by a woman's hand, before a batter'd wall ?"
Foil'd
"
lost ?
is
i.
st.
54, 5, 6.
exploits of the
Maid
of Saragoza,
who by her
the
valour
When
The
Junta."
edition of
editor
command
of Murray's
complete
" The
exploits of
'
first
attracted notice,
working a gun in
was
in her twenty-
soft
feminine
to
be
truth,
full
of joy,
that
when a
MAID OF SARAGOZA.
are sorely pressed upon, their best field of battle
is
the
the
upon which their children have played
chambers where the family of each man has slept
floors
in the
roofs
or in the market-place
and among
ples,
in the street,
or uprooted.'"
Southey,
his
in
defended
it
was
left alive,
so
,fire
a six-and-twenty pounder
gun,
made
the siege.
to quit
it
alive during
who
vow never
a solemn
Such a
fired
it.
and renewed
beheld
and
" The
women were
and
shells
which
fell
MAID OF SARAGOZA.
about them, and braving the flames of the building
women
into
to
of
all
ranks assisted
some
companies
to relieve
the
wounded
some
carry water,
When
who
them
to
its
principle to
an interval of
it
its
" of this
city
five years,
we found
it still
after
in ruins, the
dwellings.
Roman
kingdom of Arragon.
It
vineyards.
which
it
We crossed the
falls in
after entered
bombardment, associated
the
marks
MAID OF SARAGOZA.
of bullets
ders
hand
hand
two immense
into
forts.
tried in succession
the
who took
fellow-citizens.
The
Portilla
gives
it
name
to
one of
stands contiguous.
MAID OF SARAGOZA.
the 3rd of August the French opened a tremendous
fire on Sta Engracia, which soon burst into flames.
On
they pushed
on
two strong
gained
conflict,
render.
laconic
the
reply were
equally
"
Proposal
" La
capitulacion."
Answer"
" Guerra
The answer
is
"
al cuchillo.
" PALAFOX."
War
and
site
of the event be
town
enthusiastic
into a
the
narrow
exer-
circuit ;
greater part of
CADIZ.
Drawn
"
Adieu,
Cadiz
fair
Who may
When
all
forget
how
free,
and
last to
be subdued.
all
die,
None hugg'd a
WITH
the
first
"
:
its
St.
85.
loveliness
delightful
London), but
still
beautiful,
and
full
streets
of
i.
!"
be
First to
it
is
town
cities in
as clean as
of the finest
women
CADIZ.
in Spain, the
of their land."
In
all
domination their
and
powers of fasci"
nation and, if we may believe the
Childe's" report
above, the race has by no means degenerated in these
their
" Cadiz
which
is
South of
ocean,
stretching
straits,
away
this
towards
is
peninsula
the
is
from
the open
Mediterranean
Cape
which
furnishes a harbour
open bay
is
gerous sea
situate, is
and commodious.
is
This ad-
So long ago as
beyond the
pillars
CADIZ.
Spain, where the abundance of silver and gold attracted
Of
fertility
these colonies
Gades was
the principal."
" Cadiz
Roman
also contained
inscriptions
many
and other
Among them
antiquities.
was an odd epitaph, found upon the tomb of some manhating cynic, who thought he had fled to the end of the
earth.
It ran,
ordered
me
'
Heliodorus, a Carthaginian
mad
him
'
when
by
Howard,
spirits of the
fleet,
day
known
Armada.
accompanied
Lord Thomas
The
until after
it
destination
when he had
prevailed upon
make
the attack,
of his
life,
thou-
avenge the
his Invincible
thus
fifteen
soldiers, to
all
he might see
insults of the
madman,
Essex,
careful
CADIZ.
sooner did he see Sir Walter Raleigh leading boldly
into the inner harbour,
batteries
on either
board, he gave
under a dreadful
side, than,
way
to his impatience,
harbour was
full
from the
fire
and pressed at
The inner
fire.
These
the English
them
was about
to be fired.
to prove successful,
Leaving
he caused
stormed the
city
sword in hand.
were
slain
of the Spaniards
many more,
in cold blood.
When
The
to
the re-
plunder,
came
town-
CADIZ.
the flames.
statue
greatness.*
"
Upon
of Cadiz
it
is
unnecessary to enlarge.
when
port,
still
this
later misfortunes
The commercial
filled its
fire
of Matagorda
the
to
Americans
drama of 1 823,
one."
" The
plunder is said to have amounted to eight millions of
The loss by the
ducats, and six millions perished with the fleet.
*
course inestimable.
&c."
See
CAGLIARI,
SARDINIA.
Drawn
"
My
next stage
by
W.
A.R.A.
Westall,
Cagliari, in Sardinia,
is
where
Byron,
AT
vol.
i.
shall
be
capital
Piedmont
the latter.
France
and the
five
millions, to five
passage
" Life
Sardinia," says Gait, in his
to
calms
but, in
CAGLIARI.
away the
we had
Among
other
recourse to shooting
pistols,
In the calms,
and on one of
a turtle
we
shark, part of
tasted, without
relish.
likewise hooked a
for breakfast,
and
" As we
approached the Gulf of Cagliari, in Sardinia,
a strong north wind came from the shore, and we had a
whole day of disagreeable tacking but next
morning
it was
Sunday we found ourselves at anchor near the
;
Mole, where
we
landed.
our cards
and Mr.
invited us to dinner.
Byron and
aides-de-camp
appeared
his
left
we landed
and on
who
again,
this occa-
the commoner.
we
ambassador,
In the evening
Hill, the
walked
in
CAGLIARI.
"
Had we
parted at Cagliari,
it is
much more
probable that I
favourable recollec-
and
intelligent
was
Moreover,
which
"
I shall
pleasure
for
so
happened that
for
my
life,
and one
although we had
ETNA.
Drawn
" The
mantles unseen in
At length
No
Purser.
fire in
Still
W.
by
volume
in a
torrent can
secret recess
its
quench
it,
Hours of Idleness,
LORD BYRON,
from the Salsette
in a letter to
frigate,
terrific reveal'd,
May
3,
vol.
i.
12mo.
p. 153.
but
it
sea.
" and
Venice, April 11, 1817, he says,
by Etna
;"
and,
Harold," stanza 74
"
have passed
" Childe
I've looked
If
he saw
way to Malta,
it
from
sea,
it
ETNA.
will
shew
say,
" But
If,
dis-
all
the intermediate
we landed
Malta,
we saw
it
but,
if
my
after
away
for
recollection serves
we made
me
the
jEgadian islands.
much
better view
of the
ETNA.
mountain than in any other
besides, Agrigentum
stands very high, and he was never on shore there.
;
Etna
so that I have
it
was
no doubt,
if his
in his
the sea.
to,
It will surprise
to
much
where the
associations
in
Holland,
his
"
rises
from
its
base,
on these
shores, with
which render
advanced,
mentions Etna as
Travels,"
outline
it
almost unique
accomplished
all
the
moun-
was fortunate
among
in
my
far
its
which bear with them the record of nearly thirty centuries, and of no fewer than sixty eruptions."
it
view from
it,
a volcanic cone
it is
panoramic
bounded
in
makes
the attainment of
its
summit,
ETNA.
which
The
and Greece,"
" Anxious
expectation
which we waited
we
felt
Sicily
p.
for the
culty of respiration
which are
have complained.
At
this
amazing
from the
many travellers
altitude the
mind
which disturb
its
but
in a diffi-
said to arise
in
and
from the
its
divine Architect.
" At
length
athwart
flashed across
ETNA.
his rays glittered
came gradually
visible,
our eyes.
effect is
This
expanded
map beneath
most extraordinary nearly all
;
surmount
their
Sicily be-
like a
be descried, with
may
summits
cities
coast,
with
its
We
do not on
were unable
this
to distinguish
who
very
much approximated
to
their
The Lipari
isles
were
as also
coast.
tiful
Malta, though
itself
now
filled
with verdant
On
ground.
"
must not
forget to
and
At the
projects
distinct
image
ETNA.
of the mountain
diminished as
what the
or
image,
its
if
itself,
Where
reflector could
cannot conceive
he which exhibited
we
this
and we
it,
In spite of the
staid at least
to
view from
an hour
this
lofty
Perhaps at
king of mountains
rises alone
pre-eminence.
Before
we
left
the crater
we descended
before mentioned.
under our
feet
and delight
in
roaming about
this fearful
other friends
England."
with
whom
I have conversed
upon
the
as
some
subject in
ETNA.
solitude, so completely cut off
and from
all
race.
it,
we
all
roll it
which
this
many thousand
and
fearful
tons,
lest
alarmed us
to
we made
a hasty retreat.
descent
down
Inglese
Our
The
ride to-day
De
Saussure
Sir G.
made
10,963
Shuckburg
feet,
10,954.
The extreme
to be
are Pindar
and ^Eschylus;
eruption was
effects
Homer
by
it
by
salt,
felt,
from fresh to
does not.
ETNA.
gratified us
more than
that of yesterday
embosomed
in rich foliage
Viewing
one might be
bounty on a particular
district,
did
his dispen-
sations."
The cause of
is
shadow of Etna
very obvious.
The
his rays,
MALTA.
Drawn
The
Turner, R.A.
for the
Though
sister
There
by J. AT.
weary
still
a haven smiles,
And
But
is
And
Sweet Florence
But check'd by
To
gone
every tie, I
it
may
would be
thine
not dare
Nor ask
pang
for mine.
the island of
(Malta and Goza). Goza is said to have been
" The
in
identity of the habitation," says Sir R. C. Hoare,
"
"
to
the
his
Classical Tour,"
nymph Calypso,
assigned by poets
has occasioned much discussion and variety of opinion. Someplace
Calypso.
it
at Malta,
and some
at
Goza."
MALTA.
" Thus
Harold deem'd, as on that lady's eye
He
look'd,
and met
its
beam without
a thought,
Who knew
his
And
Since
now he
boy
his
little
god
no more,
bosom sought
sway was
his ancient
IT
to adore,
ii.
o'er."
st.
29, &c.
is
Malta on
his
way
to Greece,
in
it
by naming in the
is the more remark-
isles,"
It
life
produced
many
beautiful
his
stanzas
expressive
of his
MALTA.
TO FLORENCE.
Lady when I left the shore,
The distant shore which gave me
!
birth,
To
Yet
on earth
view
Though
my
far
the head,
Perchance
But wheresoe'er
view her
I
cliffs
again.
On
ne'er shall
thee, in
sea,
whom
at once conspire
Whom
but to see
is
to admire,
who
ne'er
And
to love.
offend
am, thy
friend.
MALTA.
And who
Thou
The
Ah
Nor
friend of
who would
Beauty
in distress ?
when
Where
And
shall
free
now
enclose
mightiest in the
lists
of fame,
The Turkish
Though
That glorious
On me
As
city
still
When
be
'twill
And though
shall
bid thee
now
farewell,
not dwell,
may
He
vii. p.
same lady
is
in the stanzas
Works
they
were written during the thunder-storm which he encountered at Zitza, in the mountains of Pindus; and
in a letter to his
mother he says:
" This
letter
is
MALTA.
committed
to the
whom
S
you have doubtless heard of, Mrs. S
of whose escape the Marquess de Salvo published a
She has since been shipnarrative a few years ago.
,
wrecked
and her
life
its
commencement
so fertile in
they would
appear
improbable.
at
Austrian ambassador
and twenty.
to join her
She
is
life
here on her
visit
and
way
to
is
to
not yet
England
leave Trieste,
to her mother,
by the
Buonaparte is
accomplished, and extremely eccentric.
even now so incensed against her, that her life would
be in danger
if
Lord Byron."
"
Having landed the mail at Girgenti, we stretched
over to Malta, where we arrived about noon next day
;
MALTA.
all
went on shore with the captain. They refor a reason which an accidental ex-
to land,
mained behind
Byron let out, much to my secret amusement for I was aware they would be disappointed,
and the anticipation WHS relishing.
They expected
pression of
;
at least
he did
respect of persons
come on
shore,
and
slip into
unknown.
" At this time Malta
was
commerce was
its
profits
flourishing,
hung
ripe
in great
prosperity, the
and rich
at
clusters of
The
every door.
Mr. Chabot.
As
had
letters to
him, he invited
me
to
gaged.
at our wine,
nounced.
we were
sitting
spirits
than
had
all
becoming:
MALTA.
woes and
gravity, their
sufferings, as
me
but
an apology
God
for
forgive
streets
rejected at
all.
" Next
day, however, they were accommodated by
the governor with an agreeable house in the upper part
of Valletta
and
his lordship,
as soon as they
were
monk
I believe
for he
He
She
is
but
him
it
was only
affected a
She, how-
Platonic.
diamond
ring.*
poetical
There
*
vol.
i.
Alluding
p. 284,
to
every thing
in her destiny
an adventure
12mo
edit.
at Seville.
nor was
MALTA.
it
had
" After
remaining about three weeks at Malta,
Byron embarked with his friend in a brig of war, appointed to convoy a
Prevesa.
merchantmen
of small
fleet
to
fall in
when we met
till
the following
mean
In the
at Athens.
time,
made no
The
story of
old chi-
its
in his
works; but
it
is
not the
for I
itself
have re-
marked, that he had a voluntary power of forgetfulness, which, on more than one occasion, struck me as
singular
and
am
this quarrel,
may
It
his ima-
muse on a
well calculated to
topic so rich in
awaken
and the
silence
romance, and so
MALTA.
knights,
unison with
in
me
Harold, persuades
ruminations of Childe
the
that there
specific
it
were nothing in
owing
It
to
it
was
spite.
made him
there which
The question
as to
what
it
is
of
La
is
its fortifica-
tions,
unconquerable power.
This island
and
classical
is
identified with
series of historical
more
reminiscences,
certain
upon
earth.
Remains of the
Celts
The Carthaginians
left
it
spot
and Phoenicians
and con-
known
Thucydides
as a Phoenician colony.
many monuments
and can-
From
museum
the Carthaginians
it
fell,
MALTA.
Roman
empire
the Saracens.
and on
its
From them
was wrested,
power of
in 1089,
by
and subsequently formed, with
On
was given
it,
to
it
taken by Buonaparte.
was surrendered
to the British
1814.
It
to the English
and
Government by the
it
it
was confirmed
treaty of Paris in
its
occupation
is
as a station
of great im-
portance.
Malta
is
he
is
name
is still
Here
his
to
have
PATRASS.
Drown
"
BRIG of war
in
ordered to convoy a
which they
fleet
sailed
having been
merchantmen
of small
to
i.
Life of Byron,
12mo, p. 289.
letter
to
"
He
says, in his
" At seven
o'clock the
we were
far
and not
moment
presented
itself to
PATBASS.
from
us,
were
lowlands
crowned
to their
We were
town
itself
advance
employed myself
bay
in a boat
opening
were rugged
shewn the
situa-
sufficiently before
that evening.
summits with
dark
sea,
The following
mouth
after,
of the
appearance of
the
this place.
had approached
is itself
it
just as
on the foot of a
hill
clothed
me
when
The
and the
whole neighbourhood of
"
Though we were
you
may
we were
anxious, as
Accord-
PATRASS.
ingly,
my
friend
we were
town
Dodwell
Gulf of Lepanto."
" like
all
come almost
and
light,
much
The
streets.
:
other Turk-
some of the
to the
Turks
is
street in
perfect shade,
The pavements
no
they are
known
in Thessaly
and Epirus."
Patrass
is
among whom
A A
are
many merchants
PATRASS.
in comfortable circumstances.
are reckoned
Patrass
is
and public
temples
edifices
numerous
vestige
it
now be
can
Roman
colony,
traced.
under the
Roman
title
often
Under
It is
now
the
recovered
Roman merchants
Greek archbishop.
Its
from
settled
in the time
Andrew,
Greek
a Turkish
so favourable to the
has
of Patreusium,
it is
said,
was
crucified at Patrass.
Saint
ITHACA.
Drawn
by C. Stanfield,
" and
passed the barren spot
Where
"
to
ii.
St.
37.
he resolved, while
solonghi in quest of information,
their return, to employ his time in a journey
waiting
to Ithaca,
which island
lonia hut
by a narrow
is
and
invited,
On
strait.
his
way
to Vathi,
resident, Captain
Knos, he paid a
visit to
cave, in which, according to tradition, Ulysses deposited the presents of the Phseacians."
says
steepness
" Lord
Byron,"
remains of the
castle.
and he
said
that I
vi. p.
73.
ITHACA.
Ithaca,
now
known
generally
Theaki, derives
It
as
it
is
now,
to
be
that there
was a
named
it
way,
all
attained
streams
" The
first
and
castle
we took
a boat at Bathy.
We
landed at the
ITHACA.
the summit, and enjoyed
views which this country of islands, mountains, promontories, and ports, affords in a superlative degree."
sometimes
call
it
who
Cicero,
says
roughest rocks.
probability, the
all
it
was placed,
No
still
like a nest,
other place in
;
and
It is
have
upon the
Ithaca would so
little
doubt that he
The
summit of the
hill
of Aito.
" Part
remain
Aitos.
down
the hill
city.
These
built
on
terraces,
owing
to the declivity
of the hill."
The guides
fait
at
their
to travellers in Ithaca
calling.
appear to be au
B B
ITHACA.
" There are no
fragments of marble among the
ruins
a gigantic
hill.
Our guides
size
tile.
Some
in the vineyards at
years after
my
return from
Greece, several
city
discovered.
Rome,
and vine-
is
only an
up with gilding.
filled
fibulae
worked
as early
as his time."
Homer
and
its
hero, that
the seven
birth
had
cities
many have
which contested
so great a claim to
Ithaca appears
among
the
for the
it
honour of
as Ithaca.
In
his
fact,
seven in an epigram of
to Ithaca,
Homer
and of
its
ITHACA.
" The bark
In Ithaca
arrived
Sequester'd
there
far,
is
a certain port
Form'd by converging
And
Bay exclude
all
boisterous winds
within
ships,
it,
Cowpers Trans.
in this island, is
an object
and describes
its
check
fice in
its
overflowing.
the wall,
it falls
It
modern wall
is
built, to
In the winter
covered
is
possession
of Ithaca in
to the sea.
1798, and
republican inscriptions.
'
Vive la republique
goat-herd,
is little
who quenches
'
Li-
on
all
!'
The Ithacensian
conceptions
!"
ITHACA.
Though
the
is
Theaki, the
Salona in the
An
SANTA MAURA.
Drawn by
C. Staitfietd,
spot he long'd to
see,
"
ON
the 28th
we
st.
40.
sailed
We
to the north.
which the
fate of
name
Hobhouse's Travels.
sea,
known commonly by
was
the
in the time of
it
it
is,
Livy,
SANTA MAURA.
whose account of Leucadia
declares that
it is
artificial.
is
remarkably accurate,
The canal
of Santa
Maura,
seen,
by which
From
it
be destroyed by bombardment.
It is
Maura may
supposed to have
The
fuotes).
coast,
pi'esent
is
is
on the
which derives
it
its
name from
a companion of Ulysses
walk
is
visible
rises
a grand
range of snow-
and the
is
groves of olive-trees.
city
Below
SANTA MAURA.
The descent towards Santa Maura
the subject of
is
moun-
Theme
And
his
thee, thou
And
where Iskander
rose,
Land of Albania
The
Prevesa.
Shrunk from
On
to
me bend mine
eyes
men
Morn dawns
Dark
and with
Sule's rocks,
Robed
it
Array'd
Arise
in
many
snowy
rills,
streak,
And
i.
St.
38 and 42.
is still
its
revered
ancient
SANTA MAURA.
name, as well as the whole
known
to foreigners
island,
by that of Agia
is
it is
generally
Maura
or Santa
though
CORFU.
Drauiii by C. Stanfield,
No mention
is
made
of Lord
it,
Byron having
visited
to
journey to Greece.
Once, indeed, he was nearly taken thither against
first
his will.
"
Nov. 12, 1809, he says,
lost in
all
the captain
burst
main -yard
Corfu (which
into
God
is
all
split,
fresh, the
to
make
it,
a watery grave.'
incorrigible,
wind blowing
our chance was
what
tears,
shivered, the
did
was nearly
Greeks called on
the
to the ignorance
violent.
days ago
of the captain
Alia
Two
wrapped myself up
D D
in
my
Albanian capote
CORFU.
(an immense cloak), and lay
have learnt
worst.
and
had
down on deck
complaint was
to wait the
my
to philosophise in
travels,
useless.
Luckily, the
coast of Suli,
if I
not,
Upon one
visit
Ravenna
journal kept at
more of the
He
Corfu.
will
writes in his
" Jan.
25, 1821.
Received
a fine fellow
He
clever, dished in
come abroad
to
England five
retrench and to renew.
He
of L. by a second marriage.
Corfu
not
is
He wants me
to
Duke
go to
next spring."
;
why
perhaps may
Dr. Cramer, in his " Ancient Greece," thus speaks
of Corcyra (Corfu)
this island
was
nautical
affairs,
also with
It
was
after-
CORFU.
to
for the
Sicily,
The date
of this
event
in
possession
may
be
sufficient to
of the
island.
placed about
758
mother-state not
when
it
many years
after
its first
establishment,
who
Herodotus
affairs.
war
and explains
commencement
relates, that
parties in the
the
Thucydides
first
that epoch."
From
Corcyra
It
to the
Roman
name
after
it
had
empire.
tained the
a series
which continued
become subject
is
its
citadel ob-
Mr. Williams,
in his
" Travels in
Greece," has given
CORFU.
the following rapid sketch of classical and historical
events associated with Corfu.
for
"
is
repre-
mand
where Cato
as the place
and where
republic, separated
where
Aristotle
was once
exiled
as
and
as
Antony and
the place where
"
By
which sprung up towards evening, we approached the low white cliffs on the north-western side
breeze
off
Cape Bianca,
from the
its
northern
were
reflected
Acroceraunian Mountains,
During
into the
;
but the
CORFU.
forty hours
was
The
latter
delightful.
We
tains
hills
till
at last
immense lake.
" Corfu is
built
if
woody
we became
moun-
its
lofty
side, are
the
sea,
and
offices.
and
is
is
situ-
have been
to
make Corfu
intention seems
CORFU.
penetrate into Greece, had begun
tions
to
the old
considered to be already
The
among
island of Vido,
little
the strongest in
Europe.
which
is
exactly in front of
side
have cut
island.
off all
rest of the
laid aside
requiring
numerous
as the force
Seven Islands.
" The interior
spond with
its
fortifications
probably
advantageous situation.
The
in all the
all
corre-
streets are
narrow and
districts the
moun-
CORFU.
tains are said to be lofty
and precipitous,
interspersed
with sequestered and romantic gleus and
Tovalleys.
wards the south they sink gradually into
gentle slopes
covered with vine and olive-trees.
Oil is the chief
article
of produce,
owing probably
manufacture.
and the
the
to the
The
indifferent,
skill in the
most of
whom
style
themselves
The con-
proprietors,
sequent want of
cultivation
mated
contained in the
it
which are
whereas
that number.
" The
people of the Islands are a quick, clever, and
artful race.
one
They have much national vanity,
foundation perhaps of national as well as of individual
excellence ;* but
of course jealous
of foreign influence, and not
very well pleased to see
La
vertu n'iroit
pas
Rochefoucault.
si loin, si
la vanit
ne
lui tenoit
com-
CORFU.
protection,
we must admit
It
strict
and
and that
resumption, too,
among
those
set of
The
excited,
who were
of
interested
respect which,
think, for a
moment
be doubted
ments that had taken place even during the three years
which intervened between my first and second visit,
were such as must force themselves upon the attention
of the most cursory observer.
nary
articles of foreign
* " St.
Spiridion
is,
to
be
CORFU.
procured
total
want of
inns, a stranger
who
member
son,
of his arrival
'
a la
fair
belle etoile.'
opened in a
fine
new
university
bas-reliefs
by a native
;
and, what
respectable traveller, I
authorities,
might have
I believe,
with every
propitiated
much more
* " Paulo
Corcyrota, a pupil of Canova."
F F
attention
YANINA.
Drawn
"
When
by C. Stanfield,
A.R.A.from
a Sketch by
W. Page.
was with
his
army
in
in Illyricum,
besieging
man
He had
Ibrahim Pacha
orders
left
gratis."
Dr. Holland,
who
course of 1812-13,
"
situated.
now
visited
Knowing our
is
first
in the
as beautifully
vicinity to loannina,
which
town
describes the
we were
view of that
city,
almost single in
its
my
recollection.
is still
and which, as
attains
first
feet
to believe,
above the
YANINA.
level of the plain.
summit of
to the highest
Opposed
this
lies at its
its
of rock.
" This
peninsula,
loannina, widens as
is
which
forms
the
fortress
of
it
its
ing, with
ficence
fortress,
from the
by a
in
itself, is
insulated
and a
is
picturesque in
its
The
outline,
is
From
of the fortress."
city
isle,
its
habita-
there
is
YANINA.
to
shore
its
a painted
but, above
all,
the mountain
feet
broken boundary
Its
of which
effect
precipitous
an abruptness and
front
is
is
highly magni-
by the
intersected
many
small villages.
It is
said, that
forests
on
this
bourhood of the
of
is
who
city.
preserved
still,
When,
it
is
such as
may
be considered to
and magnificence."
in variety
to
subdue
G G
YANINA.
followers were so effectually induced by bribery
promises to desert
were
still
and
formidable
and
fortress
8000 strong,
to prevent its
Pacha than
to the capital of
will be
ordinary
man
this extra-
AL2 PACHA,
ZonJan. ruAlkht..'
'
I
-/T-J^
jW .Wi // C TOt-Se.FUtt J
ALI PACHA.
Drawn by F.
Stone,
from an Original
Sketch.
" In
a spring
marble-paved pavilion, where
Of living water from the centre rose,
in his lineaments
Yet
ye cannot trace,
It is
111 suits
So
disgrace.
and he sings
in sooth
A prophetic line, as
ii.
St.
52, 53.
ALI PACHA.
"
On
the 12th,
me
received
tain
was introduced
in
to All
The
Pacha.
was playing
in the centre.
He
received
a foun-
me
Vizier
standing
and
compliment from a Mussulman
down on his right hand. His first question
a wonderful
made me
sit
my
left
which
He
now,
was
said he
had small
in the
certain I
me to
and
said he looked
consider
was a man of
me
him as a
on
like a child,
was of a
mother
my
me
and
little
sending
own
was
in
Turkey,
Indeed, he
son.
me almonds and
sugared
DR. HOLLAND'S
his first interview
Ali's character
He
white hands.
father whilst I
as his
because
birth,
sherbet, fruit,
then, after
told
treated
name
He
country.
to his
Mother.
fur-
man
this
moment
occupied
us.
He was
sitting in the
Turkish manner,
beyond the
the rest, and richer
diately
fire,
in its decorations.
On
his
head he
ALI PACHA.
wore a high round cap, the colour of the deepest mazareen blue, and bordered with gold lace.
His exterior
down
neck
pistol
of great size
On
rings,
pipe
was
with various
equally decorated
kinds
of
jewellery.
his dress,
at this
It is difficult to
in their detail or
general effect, so as to
distinct impression to the
mind
convey any
of the reader.
Were
full,
many deep
furrows
speak
his
the nose
when
speaking, by his
His complexion
is
somewhat
H H
ALI PACHA.
usual
among
than
is
short
customary
and
is
whiter
The neck
life.
is
his stature I
to
at this time of
be about
five
feet
nine inches.
and expression of his countenance are unquestionably fine, and the forehead especially is a striking
racter
and majestic
may
to
my own
conceive from
may
way
I
open, placid,
and
me
is
man
however,
and
Much
feature.
it
is
alluring.
can
may
Oppor-
of looking beneath
the
fire
of a stove
was
is
tomed
to
it.
Altogether,
satisfied
with
ALI PACHA.
the tenour of our interview,
me
for a long
and
to
gular man."
Ali,
1748
cestors,
or robber,
and by
had been
his family
One
at Teesta-
of his an-
successful as a klepht,
who was
Mouktar Bey,
Ali's grandfather,
fell at
the siege
Ali.
his
two brothers
and
estates
widow, Khamco,
itza,
five
children.
His
was a woman
bold, fierce,
and implacable.
Ali
ALI PACHA.
the encroachments of the hostile clans opposed to her
hands of the Gardikiotes, they were treated with incredible indignity and brutality, an outrage never
forgiven by
tion fell
them or
Ali,
and
for
which a
fatal retribu-
when
Ali,
having the
sister's
of bold adventures,
sometimes
becoming
towns and
he at length succeeded in
territories,
esta-
many
districts,
to his subjection.
which he
He
pillaged,
and reduced
districts, but,
stantinople, even
confirmed
hostilities
him.
for bravery, a
judi-
during the
to
him a command,
ALI PACHA.
out the campaign was brilliant
and
valour
the
of his
and
obtained
soldiers,
for
him
at the
was favourable
And
power.
to
The appointment
tails.
soon
after,
which he
" Modern
Traveller,"
which led
The
Tepeleni
is
destruction
said to
bought
his safety
by a
fire
of his palace at
walls.
Mahmoud
a less expensive,
if
it
excited his
Even now
not a shorter
report of this
in
immense
and thinking
way
to
security,
the pay
of Ali,
had ceased
i i
to.
to the discovery of
great
its
who
by
have led
cupidity,
The circumstances
i.
to his
accidental
vol.
but
who
whom,
to bribe to
sup-
ALI PACHA.
port his interests at Constantinople
he sent two of
They approached
Ismael by a stratagem, shot at and wounded him
;
fled,
retreat
fifty
stories
the uppermost
was occupied by Ali and his immediate suite his treasures, which were supposed to be immense, were placed
;
in the next
floor
was
filled
with gun-
aware of
Ali's
arrangements, sent to
fire his
magazine.
life,
to
Ali appeared to
love
it
came
ALI PACHA.
and he agreed
over him,
and
to
whom
for this
upon
Hourchid
were spared.
replied,
with
purpose
his
good
offices
his
for
lake,
This, at length,
man
in
at his
and
whom
he had confidence,
command blow up
his
the fortress,
if safety for
him a
to
Ali
them by the
air.
now
passed between Ali and the assembled chiefs opposed to him, and he was received on
Courtesies
Here
enemies.
to a place
of safety.
Among
He
was Mohamed,
and appearing
do any thing which
visited Ali,
ALI PACHA.
could contribute to his confidence and personal com-
When Moliamed
forts.
and as the
ceremonial reverence.
it
retiring,
sitting
but
Mohamed drew
his feet,
and
chamber
soldiers of
Mohamed
had ceased
to exist.
up
as the
and the
Some
head of a
it
traitor, to their
outside, held
own comrades
soldiers of Ali.
The head
of Ali
was sent
to
Constantinople, and
malefactor.
for
it
it
noise in Europe,
would be a good
an exhibition
in
spe-
London, and
buy
he actually offered a large sum of money for it but
one who had received kindness from Ali, not only
bade a higher price, and so preserved the head of his
;
friend
from
this
additional
indignity,
who became
ALI PACHA.
of Turkish policy, bought these also, and gave
them
Constantinople.
Of Ali's
were found
time
was disappointed
short of what Ali was
be very far
to
known
to possess
they
at
one
liberal
hand.
It
is
difficult to
was
too
much
in
common
His
and outrages
and where
it
was displayed,
it
was usually
Travellers
who
came
in
often
assumed
when they
This character
is
good
reception
Ali
Pacha dressed
And
appearance of the friends, on their travels, in his account of their dining with Mr. Hill, the ambassador to
the court of Sardinia, at Cagliari,
the evening,
we landed
when he
says,
" In
K R
ALI PACHA.
invitation
and on
this occasion
Byron and
appeared
less
his
a circum-
exceptionable
in the
com-
Gait's
is
not
uncommon among
on the continent.
It
once
at
One
of
for
want of
better.
but he
TippXidov Kopov
Ali
for his
and our
city
/Xt'.
/'i
.'
ltmrui_'.
wui
.\,<ltt
by
I'.l'tit
fit?
fiat
Si,
DELPHI.
Drown
"
61;
Oh, thou
Muse
C. Stanfield,
A.R.A.from
in Hellas
deemed of heavenly
full oft
I've
by
call thee
later lyres
Page.
birth,
!
earth,
hill
rill
Nor more my
To grace
skill
this
Happier
in this
fate to distant
Shall
unmoved behold
Which
homes confined
gentle spirit
still
their lot,
know
Some
Whose
I
is still
so plain a tale
And
on
"
W,
Since shamed
Yes
a Sketch by
now
it
not
his grot,
their grave,
And
i.
st. 1,
62.
DELPHI.
OF
glory and
its
power,
it is difficult
The
to present a picture
is
its
and
from view.
ple,
spot
It
it
and concealed
it
stones, the
work
of
Cyclopean architects."
it
monu-
was
When
of Celtic origin.
it
institution
foundation.
to
goes
An
prove the
unknown
period of
its
been destroyed by
was
by order of the
Amphictyonic deputies, as early as 513 B. c., at an
fire,
rebuilt
and the
ment.
sculptor's art
Its
was lavished on
embellish-
consecrated offerings of
finest
its
works of
art,
cities
and the
spoils of
DELPHI.
Of
served.
amount
the prodigious
of these treasures,
The
sterling.
Sylla,
to be terrified by
sury of Delphi, was not, however,
upon
resources.
its
priests
from
his
demands
it
of Nero,
statues
when
and
who
is
Even
credit, the
numerous.
was
offerings
hundred bronze
fast declining in
which
Constantine was
its
still
fatal,
wealth
remained were
if
not
final
its
we may
still
and
pillar of brass.
Their
triple
was consecrated
in the
torious Greeks."
From
vic-
day of power,
DELPHI.
the priests of Apollo, as they were bribed or flattered,
influenced the destinies of surrounding nations
single
less
word
girl,
Rome
Now,
and a
dictated
tated to,
and involved
dic-
all
away
evidence of the
still
this spot
there, to aid
" The
site
little
of Delphi.
many
'
of
neck hunting.'
now
a
above Castri
immense depth
a cow-house.
hewn
is
probably to
of a king
it is
paved, and
and
an achievement.
in the rock,
in
On
'
A little
on the
who broke
ages.
is
the cleft
difficult of ascent,
mountain
DELPHI.
From
nias.
'
dews of
this part
'
Castalie.'
Hobhouse,
'
We
and
rill,
we drank
"
effect.'
A few yards
Note
to
as
ii.
The water,
can
(I
issues
it
is
received into a
it
cut in the
hewn
side
is
face
and
Upon
the opposite
The
flat-
tened,
John,
who
is
The fountain
is
a kind of
little
is
while
its
wide-spreading branches
"
says,
is
this
most
inte-
DELPHI.
enter a katabathron, or
chasm
and
it is
probably from
and
the road,
enters a
among
modern
to the
The super-
fount,
from which
it
is
who bathed
the god."
"
says
site
of ancient Delphi,"
imagine
possibly
magnificence,
With
ground.
former
siderable
its
build-
for the
now
appears.
The various
appearance of the
city.
The
and
hewn
DELPHI.
In the course of so
but few.
many
of day
yet
many
acquired a
no swellings or
see
therefore
Where
is
risings in the
All
temples.
may
soil
ground,
'
we
may have
itself
truly say,
scarce their
"
!'
by Mrs. Hemans
an exceedingly
present to the imagination of the reader
beautiful picture of the shrine and site of Delphos.
lines
And
And
With
And
now
isles
forsaken throne
Brought
Thunders have peal'd along the rock-defiles,
When
That
Hath
foes
were on
their
way
made known
M M
DELPHI.
And from
From
his
Mount
With
And
all
With
inspiration yet
Away, vain
past, the
fantasies
Doth
less of
Though
Wave
Lift
in
deep
stillness
now
power
cliffs invest,
With
Thou
No
their full
chords
are
CORINTH.
Drawn
"
by C.
Staitfield,
age,
Have swept
o'er Corinth
fortress form'd to
Freedom's hands.
Have
left
Though
The landmark
fall'n,
That purpling
if
The keystone of a
As
battle's rage,
land, which
still,
their waters
hill,
double tide
on
either side,
chafed to meet,
feet.
Or
first
Her isthmus
Or
idly spread
Who
perish'd there
below
all
the slain
be piled again,
CORINTH.
That
rival
pyramid would
rise
Which seems
clear skies,
Siege of Corinth.
"
My
friend the
he for Tripolitza
I for
Patrass."
Lord Byron's
Letters.
The prodigious
Gulf of Corinth.
gave
it
the
name
of the
pre-eminent advantage
of Peloponnesus.
Key
it
had acquired
It is
mentioned by
Homer
known
By
this
distinction for
rest of
Greece had
name
of Ephyre,
and
or that fabulous
period of
of Sisyphus,
Bellerophon,
and other
CORINTH.
The
two
city of
seas,
(the isthmus
being
its
ports on the
across), that
tions
it
Sicily,
Its
riches,
from these
world
and, prior to
its
destruction by the
known
Romans,
chants,
visit,
made
that
it
it
was
said,
"
It is
Here the Isthmian games were celebrated, which drew to this luxurious place a vast conto
Corinth."
That dedicated
to
Venus
The
cele-
who
among
extinct
His two
eighteen months.
epistles to the
church at
" The
city.
women
vels of Anacharsis),
CORINTH.
men by
the
pal deity.
trious
illus-
acts
Argives
tion
of the
Thebans
and are
wealthiest, the
Herodotus
of Greece."
(viii.
state
king Adimantus,
returned to
when
it
and
won
the victory.
sculpture especially in
riches
ment
Romans
for the
and only
fleet
of the
The
arts of
bronze, attained
to
make
themselves parties to
its
the Consul L.
Mummius
and giving up
146
B. c.
Polybius,
who was
Roman soldiery.
to Rome and
The
other
CORINTH.
cities,
became
desolate
until
their
Julius
chief ornaments.
Corinth lay
for
colony, who, in removing the rubbish
blishment,
Long
is
Roman
its
re-esta-
little
obtained.
Roman
province,
when Gibbon
says
and Peloponnesus.
her benefactor
which were celebrated in the amphiThe next vicissitude of Corinth was its
the Isthmus,
theatre."
of Greece.
and
fifty-
the Isthmus.
it
is
in
CORINTH.
1415,
when Manuel
Roger king of
Sicily,
Isthmus.
it
Turks
is
and
conflicts
its final
between
capture by the
is
enriched in the
the town,
Turkish
Greece; and
if
taste.
is
The
one of the
properly garrisoned,
It is clearly
Acrocorinthos
is
its
In our days
" Corinth
in
The
fortification in Greece,
contains within
it
it
It
has
still
THE ACROPOLIS,
ATHENS.
Drown
by J.
M. W.
" Ancient of
days
Where
are thy
August Athena
men
of might
where
Gone
pass'd
schoolboy's tale,
The
Dim
warrior's
flits
" AT Athens, on
stay of between
which he
in
the grand
"
2.
monuments of
among
St.
let pass
visiting
ii.
its
ancient
of.
hours
genius
of other times
spirit
their ruins.
left in his
own works an
with which
ever-enduring testimony of the enthusiasm
he now contemplated the scenes around him, it is not
difficult to
Byron
at
much
least verbal
at
With
raptures.
the
deeds, he
he was content
for
and of works of
to
and
antiquary
art
without
effect,
was
to
beauty,
or, as at
among
was paid."
homage
" The
"
Acropolis of Athens," says Dodwell,
is
its
citadel;
On
is
it
inaccessible ex-
of Athens.
the city,
the
the area of
its
orama.
of the
formerly exhibited
and
all
the magnificence
which
it,
It
its
riches
or, as
In the days of
that
which these
ruins
and
as-
its
embellishment of
and when
his
"
It
was wisdom
its
to convert
its
dis-
summit of
the hill,
fill
was 168
feet
it
appeared prac-
up
adorn the
" the
citadel.
was begun
B.C. 437."
felicity
of execution,
originality of design,
pavement of the
the
same
peristyle of the
Mount Pen-
It consisted
of a
surrounded with a
cell,
and seventeen
in the sides."
in the fronts,
The simple
construction
broad, and
its
It
made
was 228
feet
it
the most
and sublimity.
statues
in
known
to
The
history
the Eastern
Empire and
is
its
its
of
con-
to the fall of
left
ruins
its
former grandeur.
by lightnings
juries
works of art,
and
their removal,
it,
have
" But
who, of
On
all
the plunderers of
yon fane
The
The
last,
Blush, Caledonia
who was he ?
And
to
free
shrine,
variety of
a casual
ii.
St. 11.
to give
the
artists,
residence in Athens,
among
to while
From
gret.
to leave
it
object,
was
but
it
was
Upon
their
devastation
it
relieved,
marked
bloodshed and
of Athens,
repossession
their
The modern
steps.
city
the
Athenians,
Though
found
these
to the dwellings of
was expected.
The
latest accounts
by Professor Thiersch, who found the Propylsea un" the west side of the Parthenon
changed, state, that
has greatly suffered; yet, although large pieces were
strong,
that
one was
not
thrown down.
touched
proved
The
remain un-
and
lead, with
The Erectheum
half in ruins,
Ghouras, the
in
it,
it
broke down
weight.
now completing
English, are
by knocking
off pieces
for the
capitals,
the
answer
silent
destruction,
purpose of carrying
the
all,
friezes
and
them home
as
trophies."
English.
work of
its
We
whom
United
of the
Lord Elgin's to
not of destruction, but removal
to be
for
under
officers
have too
many
The
this accusation.
sins of
before
"
adds,
''
knocked
specimens
and
;"
we had
The young
officers
of this
skill of
own
barbarism.
the
more
necessary,
as
the
own
author
authority,
impudently
governments
many
of
of Europe,"
more hrightly
where,
in our darkness.
however, so
of course to shine
to live
Yet
this person,
who
not give
him any
it
pity in return.
We
laugh to see
such an animal swoln to bursting with the conviction
that the frog is a bull, and that thousands of his coun-
the
old
contempt
or
felt
the
new
by every
man
of
common
Drawn
" Here
let
me
sit
upon
this
massy
W.
stone,
Mightiest of
The
It
many
such
Page.
Hence
let
me
trace
may
not be
Unmoved
the
pillars
Moslem
sits,
to
St.
ii.
10.
you to the
* "
east.
sixteen columns,
hundred
and
fifty.
to
have
flat
may
paved area,
evi-
channel of the
Ilissus,
which passes
On
a hundred
at
of Jupiter Olympius.
" The
stupendous
columns
more
no
fallen
" The
solitary
perhaps, more
is,
by any other object at Athens and the Turks themselves seem to regard them with an eye of
respect and
;
veneration."
"
Hobhouse's Journey.
one hundred
it
had,
when
entire,
cella.
It
stands
the
Parthenon.
it
but
when we
of
consider
cella,
Romans
The
capital
and
which,
feet.
including the capital, appears to be about fifty-five
ornaThe
are not all exactly similar in their
capitals
two blocks.
when
the temple
staircase
perfect,
and when a
cella, or
when
" The
single
many
for the
mosque
in the bazar.
was
its
It
was
but such
place before
it
fell.
The Pacha
of Egripos inflicted
(8,500
to
lament the
to
were
it
and
the inhabitants,
till
who had
i.
p. 387.
by C. Stanfield,
A.R.A.from a
and
observer,
Stylite
is
more
is
On
distant
from the
visible.
is
The
The
Page.
Acropolis
W.
Sketch by
Yon
fane
loath to
high, where Pallas lingered,
flee,
ii.
st.
11.
of
upon the ruins of the Temple
written by T. K. Hervey, and
Jupiter Olympius were
"
Greece."
in Williams's
The following
lines
appeared
Which
the
wind
utters,
and the
spirit hears,
O'er
many
Bright as an
Where hours
Have gleamed,
like lightnings
R R
Thy columned
Are vocal
aisles with
ivied walls,
And
in the blast,
And
" Thou
Ararat
is
moon
looks
of promise
own
falls
bright daughters,
when
Ionia's
beam
Hellas, as her
Bright upon
And a Greek
the
breast,
And
like
Her lay
"
crest,
Breathes
And
weedy
to rest,
to
be blest
And round
every morn,
And
till
O'er thee,
she slept
wreck
Thy lyre
And a new
in
!
youth
spring
Olympia's soul
Iphitus has
is
on the wing,
waked beneath
"
its
string
"It.uL
.if
ca.Tt-.idi
MAID OF ATHENS.
Drawn
Zav
" Maid of
Athens, ere we
Give, oh, give
Keep
Hear
By
it
part,
me back my
my
my vow
before
heart
rest
go,
By
breast,
* "
Byron,
By
Zan
ficv,
<r<tg
if I
do
very prettily in
this day, as
Roman
all
not, I
means,
languages, and
Juvenal
ladies,
It
whose
tells
gentlemen, as
it
may seem
may affront
'
is
as
us the two
latter, I shall
erotic expressions
much
first
were
supposed
For fear of
the ladies.
Lord
that I
do
!'
so,
begging
which sounds
in fashion in
Greece
at
Hellenised."
MAID OF ATHENS.
"
that lip
By
By
long to taste
all
Zaiq wot/,
Maid of Athens
I fly to
Though
Athens holds
"
am
!
gone
when
No
three
house.
am
I
all
dying
for love
lived in the
of these divinities
alone.
Istambol.f
my
and woe,
<rot$
Can
By
What words can
By
are the
of
same
names
Mr. H. Drury,
May
3,
1810.
" In
woman.
with hair,
A cinder
'
'
says,
Take me and
fly
tied
what nothing
else can."
f Constantinople.
|
In making love
to
one of these
girls,
he had recourse
to
an act of
his
own
gratitude.
MAID OF ATHENS.
ters
consul.
circumstances.
Their
were
possessions
some
olive-
Lord Byron
Athens on his
them the
first
time he was at
Among
travellers,
the English
who
visited
lines.
as associated
girls,
honourable love,
W.
house to strangers.
On
MAID OF ATHENS.
England, absence, and the heartlessness of their engage-
had cooled
ments,
their
affections,
if
their
feelings
by such a term.
terised
They wrote
Passionless affectation
was
and
chill
of
weep over
their
happiness.
is
of man's
woman's whole
'Tis
To be
For
And
all
the love of
a thing apart
Alas
life
woman
*
it is
known
is
thrown,
past alone."
Don Juan,
The
excellent character
interesting
story,
existence.
canto
ii.
part
them
to
MAID OF ATHENS.
English
gentlemen
in
at Vitali's,
Athens,
Two
a house
of the sisters
solicitude,
Vitali's, of their
own
the
who
festivity.
When
daughters
fled, in
destitution, to Corfu,
to land
for
them
visited
that Sir
to
tion being
made known
he transmitted
raised
among
Italian,
to
to
and a
little
English
and
it
is
said that at
Madame
de Genlis'
" Manuel de
Voyageur," with the addition of the
dialogue.
is
Hugh Williams
of
MAID OF ATHENS.
mention of them is highly interesting. " Our servant,"
he says, " who had gone before to procure accommodation,
met us
the
at
and conducted us
gate,
live.
is
widow
the
ours
Their apartment
and
if you
at present
Maid
'
Byron.
to
is
of Athens,' of Lord
immediately opposite to
we do now, through
On
is
the
down
colours
bound
round
is
tassel
Near the
like a star.
a handkerchief of
their
temples.
The
down
The two
is
a pelisse
and terminating
at the waist,
which
is
short;
under
MAID OF ATHENS.
negligence
The two
what
with
pale,
eldest
is
very
fair,
her
than her
sisters',
it,
may
be said
to be rather pensive.
They possess very considerable powers of conversation, and their minds seem
to be more instructed than those of the Greek women
fascinating in
With such
in general.
remarkable
from the
Athens.
any country.
if
attractions,
it
would indeed be
travellers
They
sit
who
occasionally are
resident in
"
through the waving aromatic plants before their window. This perhaps has raised your imagination some-
what
to
You may
have
MAID OF ATHENS.
mentioned, are neither more nor
sit
is
less
in
which
'
cunning hand.'
Since the
on strangers lodging
in
their spare
But though
room and
closet,
Not
all
the
them
so truly
The Consulina,
And
Turks,
fat!
i.
FRANCISCAN CONVENT,
ATHENS.
Drawn by
"
C. Stanfield,
THOUGH he
A.R.A.from a
Sketch by
made
occasionally
W.
Page.
excursions through
convent
state of
'
'
it
is
1811."'
with London
'
sided,
loci,'
life
from beginning
to end,
12,
genius
also,
he wrote
nated as
to the
In this retreat,
illustrious
or wrote
who have
and
FRANCISCAN CONVENT.
who
even those
and
affect to feel.
had
it
here he received
Istambol,"
to
which
and
in interest
while
it is
it
Pentelikon,
Saronic gulf,
tains.
the
The nearer
Arch of Hadrian,
An open
Stadium.
gallery,
it
inspired."
Greek
little
taste,
monument
of Lysicrates.
have been so
its
angles
its
display of
the choragic
it
within one of
to this circumstance,
probably, this elegant
FRANCISCAN CONVENT.
little
structure has
owed
its
It is built
preservation.
is
tirely closed
on one
Now
up and
inaccessible, until
its
It
was en-
was opened
it
there
is
it is
is
admitted by windows.
a door by which
The
of
circular cell
was composed
to think
The summit
monument
of this
is
cylindrical
surmounted
by an elegant ornament, whose triangular top was evidently designed to support the tripod which had been
the reward to the victors in the musical contest.
"
Stuart's " Athens
there
is
In
Stuart,
great care,
inscription,
who
it
with
on the architrave an
says
from which we learn " that on some solemn
that there
is
festival,
tribe of
his
own
tribe,
but at
monument was
and
erected,
r u
memory of
and the name
in
their victory
of the person
FRANCISCAN CONVENT.
at
who accompanied
of the piece, were
recorded on
of magistracy
From
was executed.
all this
to
is
circumstance,
it
above
hundred
three
it
and
thirty
years
this last
was erected
before
the
He
this convent.
writes
of
it,
that
it
is
situated
at
Arch
now
denominated Kandela, and which, with the neighbouring church of Panagia Kandela, takes its name from the
lantern
of
although Phanari
is
the
more common
appellation,
" The
upper part of
this
monument
is
hollow, and
which
is
single mass
ment and
in the form of a
the whole
solidity,
effects of time,
is
low cupola,
is
at
the
consists of a
it
to
defy the
and
it
for
may, perhaps,
FRANCISCAN CONVENT.
survive for an equal period, unless
still
mutilated to
gratify
the
tasteless
it is
barbarously
of
cupidity
some
wealthy traveller.
from
Some
and placed
and that
protection
it
which
it
owes
its
derived
position within
its
tery."
to the
existence
present
in the Louvre,
and
casts of the
whole monu-
make
if
Lord Elgin's
in this
those
artists
it
would
lordship had
visit
Athens,
many
of
its
beautiful remains
amongst
these,
which destroyed the convent but the French viceconsul has done much to preserve or restore what of it
fire,
it is
when
One
anecdote of Byron
this choragic
monument.
is
Though Hobhouse
describes
FRANCISCAN CONVENT.
the chamber in
at his desk,
it
and that
it
yet, in this
artist,
on his
or
his
heels, for
CAPE COLONNA.
Drawn by W.
Purser.
Make
And
many a peak
And
if,
How
welcome
is
each gentle
the trees,
air
!"
The Giaour.
Place
me on
Where nothing
May
There, swan-like,
let
murmurs sweep
sing and die."
:
me
Don Juan,
x x
canto
iii.
CAPE COLONNA.
Twas
oft
The grass my
On Sunium."
my
luck to dine,
table-cloth, in
open
air,
Don Juan,
canto xv.
Phrontis,
pilot
Greece, and
one of the
is
much more
is
elevated
interest,
and extent
it
many
islands.
its
Euboea
seen
is
Oche terminating
number
Nor
is
of ships
which are
Cape Colonna
weather, when,
lost
upon
less destructive in
its
who has
terrors
visited
under the
it
well says,
strikingly
which every
effects of the
tempestuous
this
rocks."
its
its
scathed head.
" The
promontory of Sunium
is
Dodexposed
to the violence
of
CAPE COLONNA.
the winds.
It
is
assailed
is
it
only
During our
a violent gale
and
moment
stay, scarcely
intervened without
it is
by the mariner.
It
also
is
it
at a great distance,
dreaded
who
from
is it less
discover vessels
their prey."
As a scene
of destruction,
its
And
they descry,
time defaced,
There rear'd by
fair
The
circling
beach
in
all their
in wild
rise
amazement see
As dumb with
Decisive goal of
devotion, to sustain,
all
dangers past,
iii.
TEMPLE OF MINERVA,
CAPE COLONNA.
Drawn
by J.
M. W. Turner, R. A. from
" Tritonia's
airy shrine adorns
Colonna's
cliff,
"
THE promontory
of
the
other
of Neptune
Sunium was
ii.
St.
86.
anciently deco-
is
The
peripteral
generally supposed to be
that of Minerva.
"It
is
elevated
originally six
on each
side,
that place.
In
standing.
there were
antse
seventeen.
on the north
side,
side.
The
TEMPLE OF MINERVA.
present remains consist of two columns and a pilaster
of the pronaos, three columns on the northern side,
JEgina
that
it is
and
antiquity
its
of Jupiter at
proportions indicates
Vitruvius asserts,
that
Minerva
less
at
similar
to
that of
Sunium.
" The
temple on the Sunium promontory, which
situated near the sea,
and exposed
is
to continual winds,
the
seen on
the
Parthenon,
is
its
blue sky above, and the dark green shrubs of the fore-
effect.
some wild
olive-trees
" The
temple
is
still
remain.
forests
replaced by
The
side by a
which seventeen
Some metopae
are scat-
TEMPLE OF MINERVA.
tered
among
the ruins,
decayed.
turning up the
earth
the travellers
among
have had
sufficient
and
unfortunate,
that
none
it
who have
is
means, or enterprise, to
leisure,
way
to Troy, stopped
interior of the
temple exca-
human
to pro-
his
much.
so
had
it
" The
fallen
temple,
to
down
went
" Several
frusta of
but
sea.
little
below
same
and
difference
The
some
TEMPLE OF MINERVA.
settled rule
we remained here
and
four days,
commanded
" In
all Attica,"
Childe Harold,
"
if
says Lord
we
Byron, in a note to
is
Ma-
rathon, there
Colonna.
which
and design
the philosopher, the supposed scene of some of
;
unwelcome
and the
over
'
isles
of Minerva
may
^gean
This Temple
deep.'
land excursion
we had
In our second
isles.
We were
at
we had
a complete
sta-
TEMPLE OF MINERVA.
tionary,
to
in a note to
Byron
at the
among
A
who
whimsical story
paid a
S.
visit to
When H. M.
is
For
enormous
letters,
the
name
its
whole length, in
of their ship.
Some
set to
It
by the
tars,
was
" It rains
z z
like
I!"
visit, left
SANTA SOPHIA,
CONSTANTINOPLE.
Drawn
"
W.
Page.
Don Juan,
" Of
Constantinople you
different
travels
strangely
when she
by
them
inside
find
many
St. 3.
descriptions in
says,
St. Sophia's.'
figure
will
canto v.
and out
errs
attentively.
St.
Sophia's
is
un-
doubtedly the most interesting, from its immense antiand the circumstance of all the Greek emperors,
quity,
murdered at the
altar."
Byron's Letter
to his
Mother.
principal church,
by
fire, after
SANTA SOPHIA.
the
No
factions.
sooner
and
as
it
The emperor
himself,
and encouraged their diligence by his famihis zeal, and his rewards.
The new cathedral
progress,
liarity,
of St. Sophia
patriarch, five
dation
to
pride of the
Roman
'
first
foun-
festival, Justi-
Glory be to God,
accomplish so great a
Solomon
'
!
But the
was humbled by an earthquake, which overthrew the eastern part of the dome. Its splendour was
elapsed,
SANTA SOPHIA.
and
in
the
celebrated
thirty-sixth
the
The
fame.
now
principal
monument
mosch,
which
of
is
has been
admiration of the
The eye
travellers.
of the spectator
is
disappointed
destitute of simplicity
and magnificence
much
Latin
architect
who
The dome of
illuminated by four-and-twenty
windows,
diameter
centre,
is
its
first
is
Sophia,
scale
surpassed by several of
But the
cathedrals.
and the
is
diameter
is
St.
is
equal
fifteen feet,
and the
lofty
cross, rises
and
piles,
their weight
is
whose strength
firmly supported
is
assisted
by four massy
3 A
SANTA SOPHIA.
Greek
cross,
is
two hun-
feet,
sixty-
may
open
of the church,
;
was
filled
or body
The nave,
humble
faithful
more
of the
private devotion
on either
patriarch,
galleries
were allotted
women.
for
Beyond the
piles, a balustrade,
terminated
side
was occupied by
itself, a name which
The
became familiar
altar
to Christian ears,
was placed
demi-cylinder
and
this sanctuary
form of a
communicated by
pomp
either to the
ministers.
The memory of
new
edifice
to
the
SANTA SOPHIA.
strength,
The
spective parts.
solid
piles
hewn
and
by
and firmly cemented by the infusion of lead and quicklime but the weight of the cupola was diminished by
circles of iron,
triangles, fortified
into squares
the
levity of
substance, which
its
pumice-stone that
sort.
less
structed of brick
either of
ordinary
consists
from
of the edifice
was con-
and the
the cupola, the two larger and the six smaller semi-
domes, the walls, the hundred columns, and the pavement, delight even the eyes of barbarians, with a rich
Virgin, of saints, and of angels, which have been defaced by Turkish fanaticism, were dangerously exposed
to the superstition of the
Greeks.
According
were
to the
distri-
The balustrade
the spec-
SANTA SOPHIA.
of silver
altar
sum
computation.
monument
thusiast
who
tempted
to
is
and
entered the
suppose that
dome
it
artifice,
insignificant
was the
is
residence, or even
Yet,
how
the labour,
upon the
religion
how
a laudable
is
temple
magnificent
of national taste
may
but the
dull
if it
is
the
be com-
crawls
"
!
city,
the terrified
inhabitants,
" from
every
monks, and
women
and children, of
priests,
The fane of
St.
religious virgins."
SANTA SOPHIA.
sought a momentary security
" The
profanation of the plunder of the monasteries
dome
of St. Sophia
itself,
The
tragic complaints.
the
earthly heaven,
the
all
that could
was
torn, broken,
or burnt, or
vilest
applied, in the stables or the kitchen, to the
uses."
me-
monument
of his
glory, that
if
SANTA SOPHIA.
were granted
to the
soldiers,
command
the
metropolis
of the eastern
his
church was
By
the crosses
purified,
On
the
name
prophet
the
of
God and
his
performed the
lately
Sophia was
crowned with
endowed with
minarets,
lofty
an ample revenue,*
and
surrounded with
for
and
refresh-
ment
imitated
of the Moslems.
in the
was
jami or royal
built,
the devotion
rrioschs
and the
first
of these
Greek emperors."
*
livres
about 32,000/.
SANTA SOPHIA,
FROM THE BOSPHORUS.
Drawn by D.
"
Roberts,
Stamboul
from a Sketch by R.
*
(Alas
Gay were
All
felt
Nor
still
pervade
my
strain
!)
the
common
As woo'd
A.R.A.
And Greece
Cockerell,
joy they
now must
feign
ii.
st.
79.
They
suffer not a
dog
to enter;
no one presumes
to hold
"
St.
Sophia
Its situation is
best
and
is
and
they
advantageous, for
it
gradually
down
to the sea
SANTA SOPHIA.
This church, which
is
in
certainly the finest structure
unwieldy without.
dome, which
is
The plan
is
Rome,* looks
to be very
almost square
and the
which have
outwardly on four prodigious large towers,
been added of late years to support this vast building
and make it immovable, in a country where whole
cities
lages
large privileges
The
vil-
mosques have
to the royal
The most
striking impression
made by
the
first
view
When
is
him.
only dreaming of the scenes before
Of
as
he had never
city
St. Paul's
was not
SPOLETO.
Drawn
LORD BYRON,
by J, D. Harding.
in
anciently Spoletium,
five
it
hundred
successfully
Hannibal, in
tory at
its
its
vic-
to sur-
render their city checked the advance of the Carthaginian general upon
forces to
Picenum.
ancient gate
An
off his
commemorates
this event,
3c
SPOLETO.
is still
name
The
Sylla.
summit of a
is
city
and,
hill,
most picturesque
situated
upon the
externally,
in Italy
of Italy.
cities
wars of Marius
and
and the
it
is
side
and
one of the
its
cele-
"
Eustace says,
than Theodoric.
was destroyed
it
and successor
The aqueduct,
to Belisarius."
crossing
bridge, rests
250
and Addison
feet,
pancies of travellers
it
the former.
probable
citadel,
with a
stone
230 yards
will
be
Some
In these discre-
fair to
The
at
crowns
The cathedral
lofty
is
point over-
also in a
com-
manding
of
situation
it
Remains of Roman
antiquity
SPOLETO.
are found
had
at
Spoleto,
particularly
The
that
bridge
which
torrent
it
the situation
the
of the
formerly crossed
detritus
As
mountains.
are
by the
among
its
it
is
an
is
interesting
unrivalled
in
and the
picturesque,
remain in
commanding situations,
Romans, the Goths, and the Lombards,
striking features. The castle, the gigantic
profusely,
and
in such arrangement,
that he has
and
Some
band of
chief of a
villains
who
infested
was the
Monte Somma,
summoned
spot,
When
travellers
he contrived
them
their attack
the
strictness
French were
of their police,
in
possession
and the
he had
at a certain
murder and
when
until
his brigands,
to detain
vio-
At length,
of Italy,
severity
the
of their
SPOLETO.
punishments, which certainly followed detection, led to
the destruction of this
gang of bandits
was
seized,
and shot
PIAZETTA,
VENICE.
Drown
"
Her
by S. Prout.
thirteen
Sinks, like
a new Tyre,
all glory,
And
And
fire
Witness Troy's
rival,
Candia
Vouch
it,
ye
blight.
" Statues of
the long
all shiver'd
glass
Of her dead Doges are declined to dust ;
vast
fight
file
and sumptuous
3D
still free,
pile
P1AZETTA.
Their sceptre broken, and their sword in rust,
Have
empty halls,
and
streets,
foreign aspects, such as must
Too oft remind her who and what enthrals,
:
Thin
Have
" Venice
pleases
much.
me
see them,
as
much
as I expected,
It is
and
I
iv.
expected
know
before
I like
do not even
costume
too,
is
however, there
much
is
left still
its
decay of
vanished
the Carnival,
coming."
Letter to Mr. Murray, " Life of Lord Byron."
The
the sea,
Piazetta
is
and extends
Ducal Palace,
and
all
Mark.
in all the
the topsy-turvy of
grandeur of
its
its
massiveness,
architectural character,
appears on the
left
hand
St.
and on the
Mark
beneath
which are a range of shops under a colonnade, extending into and around the Place of St. Mark. In the
foreground are the square marble pillars which Simond
PIAZETTA.
city of Acre
with the sea fagade of the palace, are the two granite
columns
(thirty feet
hy
to
the trophies
They were
which he took from some island
in the Archipelago,
among
Palestine.
In
a statue of
St.
who
Venice,
Mark
to St.
when
sought a
tector,
new
bronze winged-lion
the
emblem
of the
one.
Upon
new patron
saint
Mark, and
a strange figure,
top."
year
" a
to
chimney-sweeper crawling out of a chimneyThis lion was removed by the French in the
whence,
station,
There
is
scarcely
is
it
returned to
The
its
old
object in the
more
than this
here
is
whence
issued
PIAZETTA.
the destinies of Europe
iri
The
of her subjugation.
political
here are
history of Venice
which the
own
is
one of
country, to
In
it
an admirable epitome.
is
immense
its political
existence
it.
silt
in the
Lagunes,
In the
utter insignificance.
Huns under
Venetia,
century,
when
the
Attila
many
islands
flat
fifth
first
From
this
from their
seas,
to the
neighbouring continent;
from
Istria
the Adriatic.
to
Ravenna; and
finally, the
oil
carriers of
wealth importance.
At
this
PIAZETTA.
sand-banks a portion of the Greek empire.
became
rich,
When
they
established a form
people lost
From
all control in
time
this
its
One
belief.
Ragusa
of
its
gene-
its
nobles,
and pro-
and annexed
to the
mud-bank.
dominions of
this
metropolis on a
in the fifteenth
through
into
whom
Europe
all
and
unknown
in the history
discovery of the
began the
Its
first
One
volted from
it,
it
its political
its
influence
3E
and without
PIAZETTA.
respect at
fraternal
home
or abroad,
it
fell,
however,
it
his
Saint
is
it
so
is
an expression of
of
true, that the Bridge of the Rialto, the Place
so often
nised
but, as a whole,
and on beholding
than dispelled.
it
It is
the illusion
is
embodied, rather
by the
if
some visionary
and gorgeousness, to
strangeness enough, and novelty,
sustain the
moral
mind
interest
The
to the
effect
'
we
feel that
we
"
Conder's Italy.
I-
f ,-n,lfn,
>
..
i /,
Jfusreut,
SoUt
btf
('.
Tilt. 86.
J-'i,
MARGUERITA COGNI.
Drawn
"
H. Harlowe.
by the late G.
I like
the
From
And
women,
too, (forgive
my
folly),
still,
arts
by moderns mimick'd
ill."
Beppo.
BENEATH
the drawing
is
written,
apparently by
Marguerita Cogni,
Veneziana di nascita.
This drawing was done at the request of G. G. Byron,
L. B.
G. H. H.
"
to
Venice,
August
6, 1810.
'
letter
Benedetto
MARGUERITA COGNI.
te, e
la terra che
fara
ti
'
!'
May
You would
I
think
it still
is
it
not pretty?
prettier
it,
as
any thing.
am
sure
if I
and
it
where
am
animal, and
Medea
to
any
sure that
woman
I told her,
like this
my hearth,
*
around me.
gotten or forgiven
up
in
upon
come
* *
me
it ?
my household
Do you
It
yet.
and
till
when
is
stood
gods shivered
suppose
am
a tenfold opportunity
but
have
for-
earth,
*,
with
could
any thing
alone upon
You may,
perhaps, wonder
kind of
on these that
my
to
only a spectator
offers.
It
may
be blamed than
ceasingly."
It
would certainly be
gant character.
difficult to conjecture
lies
where-
fail
to
find
MARGUERITA COGNI.
any thing in the countenance which bespoke the virago
Lord Byron described her to have been. Of this he
was
he said
"
If
Venetian, you
you choose
may
to
make
Mr. Murray,
mean
to represent."
The
all
" the
beauty for
which they were once so celebrated is no longer now
to be found among the
Dame,' or higher orders, but
'
all
It
'
under the
'
or kerchiefs, of the
fazzioli,'
was, unluckily,
among
lower.
mind can
account,
and an
daring
career of libertinism, he
relief for
What
'
is
that,
to us
more than
once, of an evening,
when
his house
known
to
3P
as if hating to
MARGUERITA COGNI.
return to his home.
It
is,
he always
looked back, during the short remainder of it, with
and among the causes of the
painful self-reproach
least defensible
life,
detestation
which he afterwards
felt
least
prominent.
already men-
of her husband,
rina.
Harlowe when
at Venice,
having
title
of the Forna-
virago,
drawn by
hands
artist,
on the sub-
ject,
"
'
shall be told
you
"
time
'
Her
face
it,
is
though
may
be lengthy.
fine
"
it
'
In the
summer
tall, is
not less
of 1817,
**** and
myself were
MARGUERITA COGNI.
had been great distress in the country,
had a little relieved some of the people. Gene-
and
makes a great figure at very little cost in Venelivres, and mine had prohably been exaggerated as
rosity
tian
an Englishman's.
at
to
them
me
or no, I
'
in Venetian,
Why
Cara, tu
her,
sei
bisogna
del' soccorso
saw
hut and
my
my
She answered,
mio.'
food,
some
"
'
If
you
All
would
not
so.'
say
you
and I saw no more of her for
days.
'
A few evenings
after,
girls
seriously, assuring
light,
affairs,
and
were,
firstly,
person;
very dark,
besides,
tall,
MARGUERITA COGNI.
thoughts, in her countenance, in every thing, with
all
with
letters,
make a
ill
prepotente,' that
whenever
see
it
"
lowed
walk
in
to
and
if
women
in her
'
When
came
to
Venice
me
she came to
to
be a favourite,
pretty often.
self-love,
Cavalchina,' the
where
carnival,
the
is,
'
was
her.
'
mask
of
and decent
masked
all
ball
on the
last
At the
night of the
Madame
in conduct, for
noise this
my
made
arm.
;
You may
but this
is
only
"
'
At
last
back
to
my
house.
him
lie
I told
go
tigress !)',
As
MARGUERITA COGNI.
it was midnight, I let her
stay, and next day there was
no moving her at all. Her husband came, roaring and
not she
crying, and entreating her to come back
:
He
I
told
want her
of the
window
her
to take
did not
it.
who had
ettico,' as
me
consent
my
to
my
my
keep
becco
a phthisic.
After a precious
house, really and
but owing to
'
my
indolence,
countenance, for
if I
this well
enough,
as well as her
they are
"
'
she-things
Madame
tection,
all
for she
the temper of
when
women, and
Medea.
quite untameable.
/ was
3o
MARGUERITA COGNI.
at
keep her
all
in
me
she subsided.
beautiful
and
prevent
I
but, alas
this travestie.
said
much)
put the
first
but
not
become
at all
"
1'
'
made me
tail after
"
mean
In the
my
stopped
all
'
is
and
letters.
She used
over one.
this diabolical
tail
end of
her.
'
could not
'
In
fooleries.
all I
a savage sight),
is
her
me
women, and
by their shape
and she used to
"
'
me and
open
all
letters
ad-
ing qualities.
to
After she
to
do
came
my
house as
were reduced
'
donna
to less
than
MARGUERITA COGNI.
and every body did their duty better the apartments were kept in order, and every thing and every
half,
body
"
else,
wild way,
tion one.
with
my
squall,
boat
except herself.
'
sufficient
regard for
in
I will
to believe.
her
men-
gondoliers,
filling,
oar
torrents, night
peril
tumbling
lost,
thunder, rain in
sea,
me
On
our
on the open
Grand Canal,
fectly
her
feet,
chariot,
like
Medea
was
rolling
moment
except ourselves.
On
seeing
me
safe,
she did
me
il
is
this
'
Ah!
al'
can' della
Madonne, xe
esto
a time to go to Lido
?),
MARGUERITA COGNI.
seeing the
'
temporale.'
am
told
all
sat
down on
Her joy
nor comforted.
moment
me
at seeing
me
the idea of
"
'
with her.
home
(she
determined
had acquired a
in
my
me
to part
service),
to quit
was
the
house.
there
was a
table,
knife,
and fork
also, at
day, while
was
at dinner,
The next
broken open a glass door that led from the hall below
to the
straight
staircase,
up
hand, cutting
me
slightly in the
thumb
from
my
in the operation.
me,
MARGUERITA COGNI.
I
know
not
but Fletcher
I then
by the arms, and disarmed her.
boatmen, and desired them to get the gondola
seized her
called
my
own house
quiet,
resumed my dinner.
" We heard a
'
them on the
staircase, carrying
her up
stairs.
met
She had
stairs.
the fear
again, seeing
we
but when
can't
to
consider
swim have
of deep
though they
cular,
also night,
had a
live
some
devilish spirit of
it
it
was
They
"
for
'
a surgeon, inquiring
then said,
'
would
it
re-
and be named
and more
"
'
All
my
/ will.'
3n
They had
now
para-
MARGUER1TA COGNI.
lysed
they wanted
me
guard
'
very devout,
forgot
and would
strike.
"
'
had her
sent
home
distance,
to
it
relates to me.'
"
VERONA.
Drown
"
by
W,
R.A.
Calcott,
The Amphitheatre
is
wonder-
ful
" THERE
is,
much
associated with
it,
as Verona.
and the
The
naturalist, of
while our
is
interest-
recollections
birth-place of Ca-
modern days,
that
illustrious
men
of ancient and
it
it
with ima-
It is
thus
felt,
llierj
waken a stronger interest
even the arch of Gallienus,
mW of
than the supposed tomly
Juliet.
VERONA.
delighted with Verona
deserves
all
honoured
it.
the
'
delightful I ever
with which
eulogies
The
situation,'
saw
he
says,
so sweetly
it is
Scaliger
'
is
has
the most
mixed with
rising
Here, of
my
To
all
the above
list
I fix
Verona was
first
The
erected.
It is,
now
remains,
as
it
it is
From
tiers
up
really measures.
in the arena,
and the
fitted
proscenium
VERONA.
have been barricaded
off.
a practice introduced by
century
when
attention,
combats
and
was used
it
body
it
were decreed
a place of judicial
as
mind and
to
meet the
homage
of the multitude.
as
modern Huns
its
nerated to farces
to
gladiatorial glories
and pantomimes
but there
is
nothing
infinitely less
are
In 1822, the
The approach
to the
Amphitheatre is through a
and other external parts of
and cabinet-makers.
mens were
in the shale of
3i
fish
Monte Bolca
VERONA.
a mountain about fifteen miles from Verona, celebrated
among
naturalists for
fossil
its
productions.
Roman
much
interest.
Of
the remains
Charlemagne,
most
is
but the
which stand
streets.
in
in
Forsyth says:
"The tombs
of the Scaliger
light,
hundred years,
in a public street,
But they
stood
the
certainly are
;"
or if they
fantastical as they
VERONA.
There
is
English travellers
visit,
and wish
to
be true
the
all
tomb
of Juliet.
Verona,
story they
seem tenacious
to
fact,
giving
It is a plain,
a date (1303), and shewing a tomb.
open, and partly decayed sarcophagus, with withered
leaves in
in a wild
it,
situation struck
me
my
my arrival at Venice,
the
still
Romeo seems
founded on a
as
but
in
to
the plug.
been
left,
fact."
at
it
was made
is
of the visitors
is
now checked by
The
The material
dilapidating rage
VERONA.
government
shews
it,
and the
who
She always
"
them the history of the
famous lovers,"
relates to
and her
tale
agrees
with Shakespeare's.
Here,
in
Verona, we
feel at home.
The city has heen peopled
"
"
of our country, with beings,
master-spirit
by the
if
had
no
existence
but from his imaginawhich,
they
tion,
can never
scenes
die.
Capelli and
we
associate
and confiding
Romeo and
Juliet
one so
become a
this
and only
of semblant death,
state
happiness on earth
the society of
devoted.
This
is
is
for
are
with
him
the
dared
and through
murky
names
the Anglicised
the
better
these
Montecchi
whom
source
alone
of an
of
BELLAGIO,
LAKE OF COMO.
Drawn
"
by
H. Gasteneau.
finest parts of
Switzerland
the Rhine,
for the
"
Letter to Moore,
Life of Byron."
THE
rendered
Italy.
on
its
more than
is
The views
;
but the
forests of
spots of table-land
upon which
its villas,
SK
Surrounding the
villages,
and
and olive-grounds.
BELLAGIO.
At every
lake
successive point
offers,
which the
sinuosity of the
especially in situations
The Comasques,
called,
boys
in
emigrate
feet.
many
and
world, of privation
the
to the height of
lofty
side of the
years of struggle
difficulty,
have
re-
alised
to
which they emigrate. They are the itinerant venders of plaster casts, looking-glasses, and barometers.
"
of Caddenabia,
with us," said the
tries to
innkeeper
Stay
little
down from
the villages to
many
my
Stay
rich old
till
festa
men come
to
go
which
remarked
you," he said
to
"we
our innkeeper.
"
understand
priests."
THE SIMPLON,
VILLAGE.
Drawn
" The
Simplon
is
by
H, Gasteneau.
magnificent in
its
nature and
to
God and man have done wonders
have
had
must
the devil, who certainly
Both
its art.
say nothing of
hand
(or
THE
is
of this view,
village of Simplon, the subject
situated in the
are
those
bound the
southern
side
of the
the
road descends
Simplon.
whose bases
The
at
village
is
short
distance
only from
most conveniently
situated,
had
so
and
those
Domo
who had
was the
suffered,
for extortion
or those
who extended
her
THE SIMPLON.
bad name from report; and the walls and windows
of the inns from
Geneva
to
deserved
having
let
it,
left
Domo d'
How
she
far
The author,
tell.
to proceed
The landlady, rather a bluff personmet him, and he was shewn into a comfortable
accommodation.
age,
She asked
chamber.
ceteras,
were served.
me
a good dinner."
civility
was
game, fine
good wine, and many et
side,
He
records the
misrepresented.
and
very
It
trout, chicken,
comfort and
at
said,
send
Delicious soup
excellent.
fruit
at
is
most favourable
for
over-
story
is
from Brigg
snow
to his head-quarters at
fell
Domo
in
THE SIMPLON.
whirlwinds, and so
to
it
fell
three times, in
At
way back
find their
The general
filled
to Brigg, rather
than attempt to
feet
rity,
proceed.
soon afterwards found that the rest of the party were not
following
to proceed.
to arrive in safety,
so
The snow
hard,
and
in
when
the travellers
fell,
they disappeared in
it,
tinguished by the
movement communicated
by
their companions.
On
in their
extricated
Simplon, they found that the snow had, like fine dust,
insinuated itself into every interstice of their clothes,
3L
THE SIMPLON.
and, coming in contact with their body, had at
first
them
before their
from a mould.
casts
insensible of this
The
till
is
in-
much
volved in
will be referred to
Marengo, whilst
fatal
It
Leman, by whom
It
now
ex-
ments of man.
CHAMOUNI.
Drawn
"
Mont Blanc
On
W.
is
the
Page.
monarch of mountains
The avalanche
But
ere
it fall,
Must pause
The
hand
for
my command.
and
its
mass
restless
Or with
Glacier's cold
But
in his
ice delay."
Manfred.
" Chamouni, and that which
it
inherits,
is
higher,
it
is
not equal in
LORD BYRON'S
CHAMOUNI.
mighty sources of the sublime, that burst from him,
with
all
Have pinnacled
in clouds their
snowy
scalps,
falls
The avalanche
snow
the thunderbolt of
to
and
among
at Victor Tairrez's
Chamouni,
it is
names of
Mr. Smith
or French
or
Mr. Brown
whilst the
German,
Italian,
Marchese, or Comte.
CHAMOUNI.
Lord Byron was struck with an exclamation of one
" I remember
of the
in his
when he
Smiths,
at
Chamouni,
woman exclaim
see
journal,
says
as if
above them
and
'
!'
'
was Highgate, or
quotha,
rocks,
rural
it
Rural
'
Hampstead, or Brompton.
far
Blanc, hearing
snow
Mont
'
'
But
in
will be
it
learnt to
spirations, yet never
refined emotion
for
accompanying Lord Byron, who was observing attenof the Parthenon, he said, " La
tively the metopes
!
"
may
travelling are
little
now
and
more time
point
the facilities of
accommodations are
the
fact, that
it
of easy
is
as
good
arrived
at,
as
attainment
those
in
Chamouni
is
loftiest
the
England
not
only
it
is
of the range
which will
day's ramble, any excursions
3
conduct to
CHAMOUNI.
scenes
more grand, or
beautiful,
or interesting, than
The French
Geneva
diligences,
in four days
by
and
good
English comfort
may
be had, and
all
village,
Here every
the regulations
charges that
spirits
all
mountain
air,
Chamouni im-
memory.
among
CASTLE OF CHILLON.
Drawn
by J.
lies
by
by
Chillon's walls
W.
Page.
From
Chillon's
Prisoner of Chilian.
"
behind
it.
Mem. The
of Chillon was
great a
man
as
little
corporal
of
know not
who shewed
" Went
again
the wonders
mind) as
and thinking every one
(to
my
and returned
to Clarens with
CASTLE OF CHILLON.
" THE Chateau of
Chillon," says Lord Byron, in a
" is situated between Clarens and
note,
Villeneuve,
which
on
last is at
its left
a torrent
St.
below
Gingo.
it,
washing
its
(French measure)
within
it
feet
that the
fetters
and the
fettered
Bonnivard have
several years."
Simond, in
gives,
in his
Chillon.
"
dull,
He
his
says
on a
flat
is
heavy
and almost touching the shore, with which a short
wooden bridge, or platform, connects it.
It is
gar-
whom,
acting as
CASTLE OF CHILLON.
under the
level of the
Comparing the
remained
former
would
full
rise
when
particularly
floor inside,
contradict poets,
or picturesque
lake,
if it really
me
It grieves
and sentimental
dungeon of Chillon
is
sort of
and
not
is
absolutely a comfortable
or
dungeon enough,
feet
and
fifteen
feet
with
several
wide,
high,
twenty
narrow slits into the thick wall above reach, but adfull forty feet long, fifteen
mitting air and light, and even some rays of the sun.
row of
iron ring
is
marked by
vard was
tradition
floor
of
out the
by his walking
them
it
is
one of them an
to
to
to
it
is
yet another
and
be believed,
time
do not know.*
which
Many
* Simond's tenderness to
poets will win no credit for him here,
" Prisoner of Chillon" these accounts
for the error is his own. In the
are not contradictory.
says,
"
SN
to a
column
stone,
single pace."
captivity,
he
CASTLE OF CHILLON.
travellers, mostly English,
on
this
among them
and
pillar,
Lord
is
Byron's
conspicuous.
feet square,
made by
the wall
a prisoner,
his escape, but could not get farther than the outer
dungeon
here, after
man
wall,
much
These are
have attempted
make up
to deprive
them.
for
One
whiskered cicerone could not give us any more particulars about the tragical
he was, nor
name
tell his
but
when we
Another
who
soldier,
il
inquired about
y a
mille cms
Ha!
story
is
poets
But
it
therefore the
may
after the
On
do.
"
And
Along
was
my
liberty to stride
cell
from side
to side."
CASTLE OF CHILLON.
towards the lake, the words Liberia
et
Patrie were
Somehow,
lution.
very
little
derable danger
yet
believe
it
in consi-
is
is
only a
France
at
any
rate, I
was sorry
to
enough
last conjectures of
However
Liberte et Patrie
recently the
painted,
it
is
the
Romans, formed part of the dependencies of the Burgundians and the Franks prior to
1273, when it was conquered by Duke Peter of Savoy,
its
possession by the
These governed
it
by their
it
by the Bernois
baillies until
1798,
Vaud was
restored to
them
name
of
GENEVA.
Drawn
all
Page.
his course
along
the Rhine,
with
W.
Alter visiting
all
the
land Bernois.
him
in those
eminent.
is
his absence,
It
and published
in
3o
have
GENEVA.
been very fortunate
fortunate in
my
companion (Mr.
H.), fortunate in our prospects, and exempt from even
the little petty accidents and delays which often render
journeys in a
less
disposed to be pleased.
admirer of beauty.
privation,
am
was
But
the world.
in
in all this
ness,
me
desolation,
me
through
life,
cloud, have
for
one
moment
my
identity
me
to lose
my own
wretched
nor the
the
the majesty,
in
forest,
If,
in the
at
Geneva
here.
beauty
The
;
to part
scenes around
and
eased," they
if
it
are
known
would
restore
it
to peace.
to
be of singular
to
a mind
dis-
Excursions on
GENEVA.
are enjoyments accessible to the visitor at
if
too
much
Geneva
and
an hour,
it
taken
is
is
spot
is
lake,
The
to
it.
Geneva, with a
little
of
its
of the Voirons
Mont
and a long
a
common
streams.
line of separation
bed,
marks the
S.A1D1T STSDIBE,
J.
Murrvlf.
i Sou
fc,
"
Original Miniature, by
W.
J. Newton.
salvation of
and
either so unprepared
ness of married
life,
unfit
to
The
little
respect
beside dis-
and admiration
is
Anabella, which
"
One
answered.
instance in
letter
What an odd
from
situation
She
spoiled,
twenty
is
which
a peeress, that
strange in an heiress
is
to be, in
her
own
a girl of
right
an
only child, and a savante, who has always had her own
She is a poetess
a metaa mathematician
way.
physician
and
yet,
with
all,
3p
Any
other head
up and marry.
he writes
I
desire of
to
many
may
it
am
mean
to pull
in tolerable love
be."
weaned, by an honourable
affection,
him
course of
them
Moore: "
The
life
riage,
It
was
by the advice and intervention of Lady Melbourne that he became a suitor for the hand of a
chiefly
Though his
was
not
then
proposal
accepted, every assurance of
and
friendship
regard accompanied the refusal a wish
:
somewhat singular between two young persons of different sexes, insomuch as love was not the
subject of it
ensued between them.
We
Lord Byron estimated as well the virtues as the accomplishments of the young lady; but
neither side, at this period,
sessed."
And
it
may
it is
was love
evident that on
who regarded
was
was accepted
of January following, at
ham, the
seat of Sir
Seaham,
in the
county of
Dur-
lady's father.
to
woman
he was
for in
" The
Dream," written many years
a passage shewing a
melancholy picture
of his state of mind at the moment of that
after, there is
ceremony,
upon which
so
much
of their
happiness or misery
depended.
"
Her
face
The
starlight of his
was
fair,
boyhood."
time,
who,
it
child
ill-
deep
even where nothing beyond a cold
profession of
appears to have previously existed ; but this claim,
tion,
it
was weak
pride.
Of
the
knows
too
much
or too
little.
It
knows the
fact of
and again
reiterated, in poetry
whilst
and
clares,
that
it,
in the letter
Lady Byron,
it
was
and
so strong
him
see
again.
iii.,
which
is
of those
who have
so little
is
the punishment
They
the cause,
is
a mystery.
in good temper
parted, says Lord Byron,
What,
ness.
so fatal
and
marriage
and kind-
" the
last
to the
whilst
was
in a strain, as the
eulogy."
after
Byron,
Moore,
better,
iii.,
Lady B.
Where
In a letter to
there
is
cannot redeem,
blame,
I
it
make
must bear
it."
Moore
says
if I
" At
parting,
any
If there be
<
never
who
was
to the last
disposed to reconciliation, proved, so
far at least, his conscience to
strong,
from a cause so
alternative was,
placing
resentment so
him
in a
madhouse, or parting
What
life
the cause of
separation was,
affair of
would
in private
divided parties.
author
is
immortalised his
memory, evidently arose from his disappointment of married happiness, it cannot be said to
be no affair of the world's.
Lady Byron's conduct to
her lord, like that of the wife of Milton
or Socrates,
whom
she
is
and trouble
itself
3Q
united,
is
as impe-
him
humour
letters
and
his works,
to
him, he learned
its
about with
broken
spirit.
sight of the
and
his last
He
felt
most
him a
faintly
murmured
his wife
and
his child.
let
it
silent.
Her
memory
it is
wayward
communicate
to
ABA
(FKOM THE ORIGINAL M1NIATURF,
r of
i.
MT
V J.Jfiu-mtf
lumse
and
ajid Imartl"
t6 Hat
Stortt
ADA.
Drawn
" Is
thy face like thy mother's,
my fair child
ADA sole daughter of my house and heart ?*
When last I saw thy young blue eyes they smiled,
And then we parted, not as now we part,
!
My daughter
My daughter
I
Albeit
My
And
with thy
name
this
with thy
name
thus
so wrapt in thee
To whom
Can be
song begun
my brow
when mine
is
cold,
" To aid
thy mind's development,
Thy dawn
of
little
joys,
to sit
to
watch
and see
thee
* Some
years after, Lord Byron wrote upon a proof sheet of
" Marino
"
Faliero,"
Ada, all but the mouth, is the picture of her
and
I
am
of
it."
mother,
glad
ADA.
And
This,
Yet
I
"
on thy
print
it
soft
cheek a parent's
kiss,
was
this
in
my
is
nature
as
me
something like to
there, yet
it is,
this.
'
Though
I know that thou
My
attainment,
all
And
would be
still
that
though born
nurtured in convulsion.
As
me
same
though to drain
blood from out thy being were an aim,
And an
Still
wilt love
'twere the
more than
Of thy
sire
but thy
And from
Fain would
life retain.
in bitterness,
and thine no
Shall be
in vain,
less.
fire
far higher.
now
respire,
deem thou
me !"
iii.
now grown
to
is
ener-
ADA.
gies of character
to that gentleness,
stant
and
She
is
accomplished
expected to take
it is
her sta-
fashionably
most extraordinary
man
intense affection.
in
life.
he
It is to
name
my
Mycenae."
it
is
upon him
Four
literally.
th^e
Electra of
distinction of her
was almost
says,
little
cannot be taken
"
and
to
in his exile.
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BINDING SECT.
APK 8
880
PLEASE
CARDS OR
DO NOT REMOVE
SLIPS
UNIVERSITY OF
NE
1720
F55
v.l
cop. 2
FROM
THIS POCKET
TORONTO LIBRARY
Brockedon, William
Finden's illustrations of
the life and works of Lord
Byron