Free Sewing Pattern  Quilted Purse

by: StarValkyrie

This pattern makes a sturdy purse 13x9x4 with 24 straps out of two
contrasting fabrics. It includes a zippered inner compartment, two large
buttoned pockets and three smaller pockets. A two-color bow and quilting
add interest.

Printing Instructions
1. Important! You must change your print settings to print this
document to actual size. There is 4 inch square box across pages 1
and 2  measure it on your printout to make sure it has printed
exactly to scale.
2. Either fold under or cut o the top and left margins of each pattern
page, then tape the pages together so each set of taping symbols
matches.
3. Then the pattern pieces can be cut out and used like a normal tissue
pattern.

Pattern pieces included:

1  Body Contrast
2  Body Batting
3  Straps Batting
4  Base Batting
5  Accent Bow
6  Body (Main)
7  Base (Contrast)
8  Body (Lining)
9  Double Pocket
10  Single Pocket
11  Straps

Materials Needed:

Fabric:
1 main color, 1 contrast color, 1 lining

Notions needed:
matching thread, 14 zipper, marking pencil or tailor's chalk, craft
batting, 2 buttons, 2 scraps of fusible interfacing

Other materials:
2 pieces about 30 inches long of scrap yarn or string, printer, paper, ink,
pencil, paper scissors, fabric scissors, ruler, pins, 1 hand sewing needle, a
sewing machine, a zipper foot, buttonhole thread or a machine that can
stitch buttonholes

Cutting instructions

From the main color fabric:

Cut 2 of #5, #6
Cut 4 of #11

From the contrast fabric:

Cut 2 of #1, #7
Cut 4 of #5

From lining:
Cut 1 of #7, #9, #10
Cut 8 of #8

From craft batting:

Cut 1 of #4
Cut 2 of #2, #3

Sewing instructions:
1. Pin top edge of one piece of #8 Body Lining to each top edge of #6
Body Main with right sides together. Stitch and iron seams open.
2. Pin bottom edge of each body section to the top edge of each #1
Body Contrast with right sides together. Stitch and iron seams open.
3. Fold each body section along the marked dotted line shown on
pattern piece #6 with wrong sides together.
4. Lay the folded body section pieces on a table with the
main/contrast side up. With a ruler and marking pencil, draw
diagonal lines 1 inch apart across the whole of the visible portion of
the main color. Then mark horizontal lines 1/2 inch apart across the
whole of the contrast color. (Alternative: mark any quilting design...

try a lattice, wider or narrower parallel lines, meander stitch,

free-hand stars or owers, or quilt around any print on your fabric)
5. Also mark concentric lines 1/2 inch apart on one piece of #7 Base
Contrast.
6. Pin each piece of #2 Body Batting in between the folded halves of
each body section with the top edge of the batting right up against
the fold and centered left-to-right.
7. Using matching top thread and a basic straight stitch, machine quilt
along all the diagonal lines and horizontally in the ditch of the seam
between the main and contrast colors. Switch to top thread
matching the contrast color and quilt the horizontal lines through
the contrast.
8. Pin both pieces of #7 Base Contrast with wrong sides together and
the #4 Base Batting centered between them. Quilt the concentric
lines.
9. With right sides together, pin the side seams of the body sections
from the folded edge down the straight seams. Stitch, stopping
5/8ths away from the curve.
10. With right sides together, pin one long side of the base section to
the bottom edge of one body section and stitch, stopping 5/8ths
from the curve.
11. Pin half of one curve of the base section to the body section. With
the base side up, stitch, continuing the straight line from step 10
and following the curve to its point with 5/8ths seam allowance.
12. Repeat step 11 for the other half curve adjoining the sewn body
section.
13. Repeat steps 10-12 for the other half of the base section. Turn right
side out.
14. Pin each pair of #11 Straps, right sides together, along the longest
edges with a length of scrap string sandwiched between each pair
and running the full length of the straps. Also pin one short side,

taking care to center the string in that seam. Then pin one piece of
#3 Strap Batting on top of each pair of pinned straps, centered.
Stitch the pinned edges with 5/8ths seam allowance, just catching
the batting all the way. Backstitch a few times over the string as
you sew that short edge.
15. With the help of the string, turn the straps right sides out, taking
care not to tear the batting. When it is turned, cut the string o
right at the seam so none remains visible outside the strap.
16. Turn under the open edge of each strap by 5/8ths and hand sew the
edge closed with an invisible or whip stitch.
17. With matching top and bobbin thread, edgestitch all around each
strap.
18. Pin each strap to one side of the nished body section of the bag,
adjusting the length to suit you. Machine stitch all ends of the
straps to the bag with matching thread.
19. Layer two sections of #8 Body Lining with right sides together and
pin all over. Also pin along the curves and bottom edge. Stitch only
the curves and bottom edge. Repeat with another two sections of
#8 Body lining.
20. Fold the 5/8ths seam allowance along the top of all the body lining
pieces towards the wrong sides and iron.
21. Lay both loose (unstitched) lining sections wrong side up on the
table with just 1/4th inch between the ironed folds.
22. With the zipper zipped, lay the zipper on top of these, right side up
and with equal overhang at either end. Pin and stitch along both
sides of the zipper.
23. Roll the edges of #9 Double Pocket and #10 Single Pocket under
1/4 inch and iron. Roll another 1/4 inch and iron again. Topstitch
all around to secure these folds.
24. To the right side of one lining piece that is attached to the zipper,
pin the Double Pocket along the dotted line parked on pattern piece

#9 so that, imagining the piece as an arrow head, the center point

points towards the zipper. Sew.
25. Manipulate the lower edge of the double pocket so it is parallel to
the zipper and pin. Stitch.
26. Manipulate the side edges of the double pocket so they are
perpendicular to the zipper. Pin and stitch.
27. To the other piece of body lining attached to the zipper, center the
#10 Single Pocket. Pin and stitch.
28. Now, with right sides together, pin the side seams of these zippered
body lining sections and stitch, stopping 5/8ths from the curves at
the bottom.
29. With right sides together, pin one long side of the base lining piece
to the bottom edge of one half of the zippered lining section and
stitch, stopping 5/8ths from the curve.
30. Pin half of one curve of the base lining to the zippered body lining.
With the base side up, stitch, continuing the straight line from step
29 and following the curve to its point with 5/8ths seam allowance.
31. Repeat step 30 for the other half curve adjoining the sewn body
section.
32. Repeat steps 29-31 for the other half of the base lining. Set aside.
33. Return to the pinned pairs of body lining sections and pin these
together along the side seams. Stitch through all layers, making sure
to meet the stitching already nished along the curves.
34. To the wrong side of each innermost body lining piece, iron a scrap
of fusible interfacing about 1 inch from top edge and centered.
35. To the right side of those lining/interfacing sections, sew a button.
36. Slip the zippered body lining section in between the two pinned
pairs and pin the top (folded and ironed) edge of the body lining
pieces that you just sewed the buttons on along the zipper and
stitch without catching the outermost lining layers.

37. Slide the lining section inside the quilted section of the bag. Be sure
to line up the seams of the base, NOT the top edges. Mark the
position for the buttonholes, then remove the lining and sew the
buttonholes by hand or machine as desired.
38. Slide the lining section inside the bag again and pin the top edge of
the outermost lining layers to the quilted section of the bag. Hand
sew using a whip or invisible stitch.
39. Fold each piece of the contrast color of #5 Accent Bow in half
lengthwise with wrong sides together. Iron.
40. Layer two pieces of the main color of #5 Accent Bow with right sides
together. Sandwich one length of the contrast color as prepared in
the previous step between them along each of the long edges with
raw edges aligned. Pin and stitch with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Repeat for the remaining 2 pieces of the main color of #5 Accent
Bow and the remaining ironed contrast pieces of #5 Accent Bow.
41. Turn both bow pieces right sides out. Tools like a wooden chopstick
and/or a pair of tweezers can help if you are having trouble turning
them.
42. With the aid of a ruler and a marking pencil, on one of the ribbon
pieces, mark a line 1 inch from each end. Mark the remaining length
into 8 equal portions.
43. Turn the ends of the marked ribbon under by 1/2 inch and hand sew
them shut.
44. Fold the marked ribbon piece into four loops, such that 4 of the
marked lines show where to fold the loops and the other marks
(including the two at the ends) are all layered up in the center. See
the illustration below.

45. By hand, stitch through the layers at the center along those marked
lines.
46. Find the center of the other ribbon piece and lay it over the
stitching at the center of those loops. Tie a simple knot with the
crossing at the back. Stitch through the crossing.
47. Hold the bow up to the front of the purse, at the point where one
side of one strap is attached to the purse body. Determine how long
you want the tails of the bow to hang. Mark that on each tail. Cut
1/2 inch below those marked lines. Turn that 1/2 inch inside and
whipstitch the ends closed.
48. By hand, stitch the back of the bow to the purse body at the point
where one side of one strap is attached to the purse body (which end
of which strap is up to you, but recommended is whichever will be
away from the body and to the front when the purse is worn on
whichever shoulder you normally wear your purse).

... and now you're nished!

Pattern Pages: