Top 40 Tools Every Woodworker Should

Have
by Ron Smith
Every trade has its tools, and woodworking is no different. Any craftsman knows that the
right tool for the project is critical in manufacturing a quality end product in a timely
manner. Here is a tally of the top 40 tools every woodworker should think about owning:

Hand Tools You Must Have

Hand tools get their power from your muscles. Theyre power tools, but not electrical
power. Here is a pretty comprehensive list of hand tools that every woodworker should
think about having in his shop:

#1: The Claw Hammer

Lets start with perhaps the most basic tool in every household the claw hammer. The
claw on one side of the head should be well counter balanced by the finish head, which
should be somewhat rounded. The other kind of head is the waffle-head. Most commonly
used in construction, it leaves a distinctive waffle mark on the wood when you drive the
nail. This, of course, is not the proper nail for woodworking.
A poorly-balanced claw hammer will twist in your hand, making it difficult to drive nails
properly. You normally grip a claw hammer with your hand at the back of the grip, letting
the weight of the head do most of the work. All you have to do is direct the driving
surface toward the right nail, sparing the ones on your hand.
The most commonly-purchased claw hammer is the 20 oz. size. Its heavy enough to
easily drive nails, but easily manipulated when pulling nails. While wooden handles are
picturesque, they may not stand up to the strain if you have to pull a lot of nails.
Hammers with a steel handle, or even fiberglass, will be stronger. However, these wont
absorb the vibrations from driving nails the way a hickory handle will. Youll also need to

make sure the fiberglass and metal handles have a rubberized grip for control and
comfort. If youre going to be driving a lot of nails, the wooden handled hammer will be
better for reducing stress on your hand, and wrist, too.

#2: The Tape Measure

The next important hand tool for the woodworker is an accurate tape measure. Get a
retractable one that is at least 25 feet long. Any longer than that, and you start having
problems getting it to roll back up. Since measurements on large scale projects can be
very susceptible to even the most minute measurement variations, youll want to make
sure the hook or tab at the end of the is firmly attached, with no give. When they get
loose, youll have as much as 1/8 variation in your measurements. This can add up to
some severe accuracy problems in the long run.

#3: The Utility Knife

A good utility knife is another asset for the woodworker. There are many different kinds,
but the kind that uses disposable blades is the most common. The blade retracts into the
grip for safety. The woodworker will use the utility knife when cleaning out mortise
joints or scribing wood, as well as many other uses.

#4: The Moisture Meter

A quality wood moisture meter is vital to the long-term success of any woodworking
project you put together. Lumber mills try to dry their batches of lumber according to the
intended end product destination. That is, if wood is harvested in the wet Northeast, but is
going to be shipped to the arid Southwest, it will be dried more than wood kept in the
Northeast for use by woodworkers. The success of your woodworking project, from
wood flooring to kitchen cabinets to fine furniture, depends on the correct moisture
content levels of the woods you use for your area of the country.
Some moisture meters have pins that penetrate the surface of the wood. This can leave
tiny holes that mar the surface and require filling. Others are pinless. They have sensing
plates that scan the wood beneath. However, not all pinless moisture meters are the same
look for one that uses technology that is not affected by the surface moisture on the
wood, such as Wagner Meters IntelliSense Technology Moisture Meters.
Your moisture meter should have settings on it that will account for different species of
wood. For instance, oak is a hardwood, but ebony is an even harder density wood. If you
are planning an inlay job using both types of wood, you will need to know the moisture
content levels of each of the two species so that your inlay glue joints will stay intact.
These different wood species have different specific gravities, which must be used or
programmed into the moisture meter.
Click here to learn about Wagner Wood Moisture Meters
Therefore, you must measure each species of wood you are using in your woodworking
project to verify that they are at the correct moisture content before you manufacture it
into your end product.

#5: The Chisel

An assortment of chisels should be part of every workbench. Chisels are not just for
wood carvers. Any woodworker will need chisels to clean out joints and saw cuts. Look
for chisels made of high-alloy carbon steel or chromium-vanadium alloyed steel.
Hardwood grips are best, especially if they have metal caps on them. This will keep the
end of the handle from becoming malformed when you hammer on it.
Youll need a variety of sizes in increments from to at least 1. The smallest
chisels are best for mortise work. The and 1 will be best for door hinges, and the 1
works well for chipping out. You can even get a corner chisel that cuts a notch out of the
wood with the blow of a hammer, much like a hole punch.
Most chisels are beveled on the 2 sides and on the cutting edge, but specialty chisels may
only be beveled at the cutting edge. This bevel will be at 20 to 25 degrees down the
length of the blade on one side, and flat on the backside. The blade will be between 4
and 7 long. Make sure you get chisels with a grip that fits your hand. If the grip is too
small, you wont be able to hold the chisel steady as you work. Be sure to use a mallet or
wood hammer when you work, so that you dont destroy the head on your chisel. Keep
track of the edge caps, keep them sharp, and oil the metal now and then after youve used
them, and they should be good for years. If you dont have the edge caps, get a roll to
keep them in. This will prevent them from bouncing around in your tool box drawers and
getting damaged.
Using your chisels involves both hands. This allows for power and control of the chisel as
it pares away the wood. If you need a little umph behind the chisel, bump it with the
heel of the off hand, or strike it with a mallet. A claw hammer will damage the butt end of
your chisel, eventually splitting it if you abuse it too often.
When you sharpen your chisel, you may want to use stones rather than a grinder. You
need a set of stones of increasingly fine grit to hone the blades properly. Start with the
coarser grade, and end with the finest grade. You may have to moisten the stone with oil
for best results. Also, remember to hone the blades away from your body.

#6: The Level

Every woodworker needs a couple of levels. You probably wont need one of the 6-foot
levels used in construction, but 48 is a good length for many of the woodworking
projects youll do. Usually, youll also need an 8 level too, usually known as a torpedo
level. Youll check the level and plum of your construction. Level is horizontal, and
plumb is vertical.
Most quality levels are made of either brass-edged wood or of metal. There will be a
bubble reading for level, and another one for plumb. When the bubble is exactly between
the lines, you have a level or plumb surface. You can also get string levels and laser
levels, but the woodworker will use these types of levels the most often.

#7: The Screwdriver

Screwdrivers are another must-have in the woodworkers set of hand tools. Not only will
you need Phillips and slot, or flathead screwdrivers, youll need star drivers and Torx
drivers, too. A quality construction is vital to a good set of screwdrivers. So many of them
are made out of soft metal, and the first time you put any umph behind them, they strip
out, becoming absolutely useless.
Youll need a long screwdriver with a square blade that is very heavy duty. This gives you
a lot of torque. Youll also need a small and medium slot screwdriver. For working on
cabinets or tight places in woodworking, youll need a screwdriver with a thin shank so
that you can reach screws that are inside of deep holes. This is accomplished with a
cabinet screwdriver. Get a couple of medium Phillips head screwdrivers, and a stubby
one too, for those tight places. You may also want a ratcheting screwdriver.

If your slot screwdrivers are high-quality material, youll be able to grind them flat when
they get worn. Beware, though, that too much heat will change the temper of the metal,
weakening it so that it wont drive or draw screws. By the way, some of Dads tips for
getting the most out of his screwdrivers:
1. Use the right size blade for the screw.
2. For stubborn screws, fit the driver into the screw, put as much downward pressure
as you can on the screwdriver, and strike the end with a hammer. This more often
than not will pop the screw loose. It also helps with screws that have stripped out.
3. Put beeswax on the threads of screws before you drive screws into hardwood. If
you dont have beeswax, use soap. It makes the screws drive more easily.
4. Youll get more driving force with a shorter shank.
5. Use a crescent wrench on the blade to get more torque.
6. Some people can magnetize a screwdriver by holding it up and striking it with a
metal bar. It realigns the molecules, making it magnetic. You can also break your
screwdrivers doing this, so be careful!
7. Get a pry bar. Keep it with your screwdrivers, and every time you need a pry bar,
leave your screwdrivers alone!

#8: The Nail Set

The next hand tool every woodworker should have is a nail set. In fact, you should have
several sizes. They look like awls, and you use them to drive nail heads into the wood so
they are flush or right below the surface. This allows you to fill the holes and prepare for
staining or painting. The nail setter will usually have either a convex or concave surface
to grip the nail better and keep it from sliding off and marring the wood.

#9: The Sliding Bevel

If youre going to be measuring a bunch of angles, a sliding bevel, or T Bevel, will be a

handy tool. This is adjustable, and you can lock it at the angle you want to mark, making
it much more time-savvy to mark multiple angles.

#10: The Layout Square

A layout square, or combination square, comes in 6 and 12 sizes. Most woodworkers

use the 6 model, simply because its easiest to carry around. Also, most of the stock
youll use will be no bigger than 6 wide, so 12 is overkill. The layout square is a
triangle that you can use to mark square cuts on stock. Once you measure the length of
the cut, you line up the layout square with the edge of the board. The short side will give
you a straight, square cut across the end grain. You can also measure off angles with the
layout square. This helps when youre trying to measure for a bevel on a table saw, or
marking a cut for a miter saw. You can even use your layout square to determine an
existing angle. Just be sure to buy one made of metal. The plastic ones are not only
fragile, but they also can warp, making them pretty useless.

#11: The Block Plane

A block plane is the key to versatility in your woodwork. You can flatten a piece of wood,
add a curve to it, or square your work. Shape or chamfer your stock using a block plane.
Once you have a piece dovetailed, you can smooth the joint with your block pane, rather
than spending endless time sanding. Your plane can ease the edges of a piece, taking the
sharpness out of it.
It is most important to make sure the blade of the block plane is sharp. Use a little bit of
oil on the sharpening stone and hold the bevel flat against the stone. Raise the heel a
little, and hone it. It will form a burr, but thats OK. Just turn the blade over, and rub it on
the stone on the flat side. It will remove the burr. A cap screw holds the blade in place,
and this is where you adjust the depth of plane you want to cut.
If youre performing fine work, youll measure the blade at about 1/64. For more
general work, youll go with as much as 1/16. Roll the pressure from the back of the
plane to the front as you complete the cut, so that you dont end up with arching. If
youre going to plane end grain, plain both ends toward the middle to keep from tearing
up the outside edge.

#12: The Caliper

A set of calipers is a must for fine-tuning your woodworking projects. You can even get
digital calipers now, that leave no guesswork as to whether you were inside or outside the
line. Of course, the metal ones are always recommended over those made of plastic, even
though the plastic ones are cheaper.
Calipers have a double F appearance. To one side is a large F, used to measure the
outside of an object. To the other side will be a smaller f, used to measure the inside of
openings. You loosen the screw to move the lower lip of the caliper, then tighten the
screw into place when you have the caliper placed correctly.
Youll use the inside calipers to measure slot diameters, hole diameters, and dado widths,
among other things. There is also a depth gauge in the end of calipers that will allow you
to measure the depth of slots and holes. You just rest the end of the caliper on the edge of
the hole and twist the thumbscrew until the probe reaches the bottom of the hole. Then,
you can take your reading. If you need to measure the exact thickness of something
attached to a flat surface, you can use the calipers to determine the thickness by placing
the butt of the caliper end against the flat surface, and use the inside caliper lip thats
closest to your hand to record the surface of the item youre measuring. The distance
from the backside of that caliper lip to the end of the caliper is the thickness of the piece
youre measuring.
While calipers will measure up to 1/1000ths of an inch, you wont need that kind of tight
tolerance. Remember that wood is an organic material, and expands and contracts with
the relative humidity and with temperature fluctuations. Trimming everything to
1/1000ths tolerance will not leave the piece enough room to breathe.

#13: The Clamp

Clamps are vital to the success of any woodworking project. Most woodworkers agree
that you cant have too many clamps. While they can get expensive, you dont want to
skimp in this area. Youll need clamps for 45 and 90 degree joints, and pipe clamps to
reach for long stretches. You usually purchase the pipe clamp fixtures, and insert your
own pipe into the fixtures to make a really strong clamp to the size you need. C clamps
and F clamps are the standard, but now you can get K camps, too. The great thing about
these is that they can reach a long way into your work area and clamp things in the
middle of your workspace. Deep-throated bar clamps and C clamps will help with this.

You cant get by without a selection of quick grip clamps in various sizes. These are
available with spreaders of 12 or more, all the way down to micro-mini clamps for toy
construction. An edge clamp will hold laminate trim onto the edge of a counter or table
top. A strap clamp will wrap around any shape, and pull the joints together. Spring clamps
are handy for holding a piece steady. The main difference between quick clamps and
spring clamps is that the quick clamps slide into position with one hand. When you
release them, they lock into place. Spring clamps are like big clothespins.
Hand Screw Clamps are the classic-looking wooden clamps with the awl screws that you
turn from both sides to get equal pressure. These are great for applying a lot of pressure
on tapered or sloped pieces. Assembly square clamps do just what the name implies
they help you assemble squares. You can also get bench clamps and dogs, as well as
other clamps and vises that attach to your workbench.

#14: The Jig

You dont have to measure every single cut and joint if you have jigs. Most woodworkers
make their own jigs. You usually use a jig with a power tool, to guide the piece through
the saw. You can make a jig to cut a perfect circle. Maybe you need to make furniture
with tapered legs. A jig will accomplish this, without the hassle of re-marking the angles
on each leg. A dovetail jig does just that it guides your wood as you make dovetail
joints.

#15: The Hand Saw

A high-quality hand saw should not be overlooked. In fact, a select collection of hand
saws may be one of the more valuable additions to your woodworking shop. You dont
have to use a power saw on everything in fact, you probably wont want to. You need to
be able to feel the woods response under the saw blade, and the saw blades response to
the wood. Besides a coping and a tenon saw, you may want a dovetail saw and a hand
miter saw, too. In fact, for many woodworkers, a fine collection of Japanese saws is the
backbone of their craft.
For general use, start out with a fretsaw for woodworkers its like a coping saw for
wood. You need a mini saw, too, for areas in which a chisel just wont work. Then, a
good tenon saw should follow, along with a miter box that you can use with the tenon
saw. Other saws, with their variety of cutting surfaces and angles, will come as the need
arises.

#16: The Feather Board

Feather boards are important for achieving smooth, quality cuts. Youll use a feather
board with all kinds of saws and other cutting surfaces to push the material past the
cutting edge. You can make your own feather boards, or purchase them instead. Most
woodworkers find it easier to just make them to suit their own needs.

#17: The Metal Detector

No, youre not looking for buried treasure with your metal detector. Youre looking for
something that could ruin your treasures namely, your woodworking tools. It is of vital
importance to keep metal out of your cutting surfaces, or youll ruin blades, bits, and
knives on your tools. A quick scan with a metal detector will let you know if there is a
piece of screw or nail still lodged in your stock. Youll find out anyway, its just nice to
find out before you ruin your tools.

Furniture and Storage

Organization is important in the shop, if you want to be able to find all the fabulous tools
you are accumulating. This is where you get to build-to-suit your own furniture and work
surfaces.

#18: The Saw Horse

Saw horses, of course, are a natural in any woodworking shop or construction site. There
are actually patterns available that you can use to build your own stacking sawhorses. If
you build your sawhorses properly, theyll hold up to 500 lbs. apiece. Theyre even fairly
cheap to build. Your saw horses will serve countless uses around your shop, from
providing backup as you saw and drill, to extending your work surface while using power
saws.

#19: The Work Bench

Youll need a work bench, or work table in your shop. Dont try to be noble and make do
with the table for your table saw. It wont be big enough or stable enough, and your saw
will get in the way. You can get patterns for work benches too, just like with saw horses.
Your work bench can be portable, on retracting or locking casters, or it can be fixed. Its
however you want it. There arent even any rules about measurements, since work
benches are usually based on the amount of room you may have.
If you have the room, a double sided work bench is nice, where you can work on both
sides of the table from the center of the room, or have a partner working with you. If its
up against the wall, make sure that it doesnt get so deep that you cant reach stuff that
gets pushed toward the wall. Then it just ends up being a piled mess, and you cant work
on your work table. Its up to you as to whether you have storage under your work bench
or not. Just remember that youve got to reach everything you store under the bench.

#20: The Tool Storage System

Tool storage is totally up to your own personal style. Some people are just messy, and
leave things piled around. They simply remember that they left the moisture meter on the
router table. However, think about your organizational system. You may want to build
locking cabinets or open shelves. Many woodworkers display fasteners in Mason jars that
they twist into lids that have been nailed to an overhead board. Others have spent too

many hours picking fasteners out of the shattered remains of Mason jars, and dont like
that method.
If you use a peg board for hand tools over your workbench, remember to build the
workbench narrow enough for you to reach the peg board. A rolling mechanics tool box
may be the solution to your hand tool storage, and a tackle box for fasteners. Others have
hardware store-style bins for the many pieces that accompany woodworking. However
you choose to organize your tools and accessories, remember that your time on task is
aided when you can find all of your tools. Its also easier to take care of expensive
equipment when you have easy access to it. And keeping your fasteners sorted and easily
accessible may save you a trip to the hardware store.

Power Tools You Should Own

A power tool is, technically, anything that requires electrical power to function. Here,
well start with the most humble of power tools. The really good stuff comes later.

#21: The Shop-Vac

You may not think of a shop vac as a woodworking tool, but just try to get any work done
with your saws kicking up powdery sawdust into your eyes. Now, you can go all out, and
get a built in vacuum system installed. This is much like the home vacuums that have
outlets in every room of the house. You just take a hose with you from one room to the
other, plug it in, and the vacuum does its job, taking everything to the central vacuum
receptacle.
While this may be a dream scenario, the more realistic version is the portable shop vac.
You can use one of your handy clamps listed previously and clamp the hose to your saw,
vacuuming up the sawdust as its made. This keeps your cutting line clear and
unobstructed. If you choose a wet/dry vac, youre getting even more for your money. Be

sure to get one with enough amps in the motor. Low amps in these small motors usually
mean low power, and you want it to work as hard as you do.

#22: The Bench Grinder

Get a good bench grinder. It doesnt have to be in the way you can make a stand for it
and keep it in the corner. But youll be amazed at how much youll use a bench grinder.
Youve got to keep all of your chisels sharp, and keep the burrs off of your screwdrivers,
too. A grinder doesnt cost that much, and the time and expense it saves you when you
have dull tools will pay for itself in no time.

#23: The Circular Saw

A good circular saw is one of the most versatile tools you can own. Most people consider
the circular saw to be a carpentry tool, but combined with proper clamping of your
materials, they are just as accurate as any table saw. Plus, you can use a circular saw for
tasks that you could never attempt with a table saw. It makes a lot more sense to set up a
couple of saw horses and get out the circular saw to cut a sheet of plywood or MDF than
to try to maneuver around in your shop to cut them on a table saw. A high-quality circular
saw should be the first power tool in your shop.
All of your saws will have options on how many teeth-per-inch, or TPI you use. To make
your decision, you need to know what you are striving for with a cut. A saw blade with a

lot of teeth will make smoother cuts. However, you run the risk of burning your wood.
This is because a fine-toothed saw moves more slowly through the stock. It also doesnt
clear the sawdust out of the cut as quickly, since the gaps between the teeth are smaller.
These gaps are called gullets, and on fine-toothed saws, numerous small gullets hold
more sawdust than the bigger gullets on a wide-toothed saw. The wide-toothed saws will
aggressively buzz through your stock with less burning, but the cut will be rougher,
probably requiring refinement with your orbital sander or jointer.
As a general rule of thumb, you should keep a selection of blades for your saws. Your
circular saw and table saw, as well, can make rough cuts with a 40-tooth saw blade, and
plywoods and other laminated materials will work well with an 80-tooth saw blade.
If you know that the blades of your saws are right, but are still having trouble getting the
cut you want, the moisture content of your stock may be wrong. Wood that has a moisture
content level that is too high for your area will feather when its cut, regardless of the
size or sharpness of the blades. Wood that is too dry will crack and split when you cut it.
If it seems that no matter what you do to your saws, you still dont get satisfactory cuts,
use your moisture meter to check the moisture content levels of your stock.

#24: The Power Drill

The next power tool you should purchase is a power drill. Now, many people swear by
cordless drills, but theyre more expensive, and they cant do everything that an electric
drill can do thats where the term power comes in. Power drills are not as expensive,
and theyre more powerful than cordless drills, which do have their place in your shop.
The steady power that comes with a corded drill makes it a better tool for extended use,
especially when using large bits such as paddle bits.
Most power drills are variable speed, with 2 speeds to choose from. When you select a
power drill, youll choose which sized chuck you want 3/8 or . This will determine
the size of bit you can use. If you anticipate the need for larger drill bits, such as for lag
bolts used in decking, you may want the drill. They also have more power. Typically,
both chucks accommodate the smallest diameter whether you use a keyless chuck or not.
Some people swear by keyless chucks, others find that they occasionally loosen. Others
find that keyed chucks loosen. Its up to you.

#25: The Sabre Saw

Every woodworker should have a sabre saw. Often called a jigsaw, it will allow you to
cut curves and patterns in your stock materials. Youll probably need an electric one,
rather than a battery-operated, although the battery-powered sabre saws work fine on thin
material and for limited use. You need to find one that fits your hand. Too small, and you
cant grip it; too large, and you cant control it. For thicker materials, youll need a band
saw, which well cover later.

#26: The Palm Sander

A good palm sander is vital to any woodworkers power tool collection. The palm sander
will use sheet of sanding paper, and is small enough to get into tight places. However,
you should be careful not to sand patterns into your finished work with the palm sander.
They usually move in a circular pattern, or back and forth. Either way, they can leave
swirls and streaks in your wood that show up once it is stained, so be sure to keep it
moving across the surface you are sanding so that you dont sand grooves into your
wood.

#27: The Random Orbital Sander

A random orbital sander is actually a step up from the little brother version the palm
sander. The random orbital sander uses hook and loop (Velcro) to fasten the sanding disks
to the sanding pad. The random movement of the disk helps to avoid sanding patterns
into your wood. Your main precaution with this tool is to make sure that your hardware
supply store has discs in stock in every grit. Otherwise, youll have a sander that you
cant use because you cant find sanding pads for it.

#28: The Table Saw

Now, we start getting into the first permanent fixture in your woodworking shop the
table saw. Of course, table saws can be loaded in the bed of your truck, so, technically,
theyre portable. But, the table saw is not one you can pick up with one hand and head to
the worksite. The table saw will be the workhorse of your shop, so get a good one. Youll
use it to rip, miter, shape, square, groove, and join, so a good saw that suits your needs is
vital.
The work surface should be heavy duty to withstand the abuse it will take. Look for a
handle to raise and lower the saw blade easily. It should have another handle so that you
can adjust the angle of the blade. See if there are connections for a dust collector, too, to
make that aspect easier. Youll want your table saw to have enough power to cut through
hard wood and make deep cuts. Again, look at amps and horsepower. The motor should
start with little to no vibration and run smoothly. Make sure it has a blade guard and that
the on/off switch is easy to reach. These days, the power switch is a paddle that is easily
pressed with you knee if you need an emergency off.

The blades for your table saw are in the same categories as the hand saws: rip and
crosscut. The rip blades have deep gullets. The crosscut blade has a kerf, or extra cutting
chisels, on every tooth, on alternating sides. This produces a very fine cut surface. Rip
blades are designed to cut with the grain of the wood, as you rip stock. Crosscut blades
can cut either with or against the grain. The most commonly-purchased blades are
combination blades, ranging from 24 TPI to 80 TPI.
As pitch from the wood you cut accumulates on your saw blades, youll need to pause
and take time to clean them off. The pitch will heat up as you use the blade, and overheat
the blade, damaging it. There are a number of commercial cleaners available, but you can
just soak them in oven cleaner. This will dissolve the pitch, with only a little rubbing. Do
not use any abrasives on your saw blades. Scrubbing cleansers and rough pads will leave
scratches on the blade, which will only hold more pitch, making the problem worse the
next time you need to clean the blade.
All saw blades dull over time, but your circular saw and table saw blades can be
resharpened, if they are carbide. Since carbide blades are more expensive, this feature
makes the blade more cost-effective, since sharpening will prolong the life of the blade.
Your drill press will have a platform for the stock you are drilling, but your table saw will
have well a table. There are a few precautions you should take with each of the tables
you use with your saws and drills. These tables are usually made of cast iron. Cast iron
rusts easily. It will come with a special grease that protects the surface during storage.
Youll need to clean the grease off of the surface, and apply a protectant in its place that
wont stain your stock or be a fire hazard. Possibly the best product for this is simple car
wax. Carnauba wax protects your car from harsh elements, and will do the same for your
table. Just be very sure that you dont use silicone wax, because the residue interferes
with the finish on certain woods.

#29: The Rip Fence

Your table saw should have a rip fence. Youll want one with fine-tuning adjustment that
runs parallel to the blade. Some rip fences have an adjustment knob on each end of the
fence, others on just one end. The main thing to look for is torque. When you move the
fence, do both ends move evenly, or does the far end hand up? This can be a real

problem, and youll save yourself a lot of frustration and stock lumber if you have a rip
fence that stays parallel to the cutting blade.

#30: The Miter Gauge

Look for a T-groove miter gauge on your table saw. While

most saws have a built-in miter gauge, it may move out of the groove when youre
making your cuts. The gauge needs to slide smoothly in its grooves without being loose.

#31: The Jig and Dado

Your table saw is much more versatile if you have the full range of dados and jigs to use
with it. Jigs were mentioned earlier in this list, and their use for tenons, tapering, panelcutting, and many other uses. A stacked dado is two blades with a set of chippers in
between. This is used for cutting grooves, or removing large parts of stock. The saw
blades make the side of the groove straight while the chipper removes the large part of
the material between the saw blades. You can adjust the width of the chippers to get
bigger cuts. You can also use a wobble blade for this, but it wobbles and vibrates your
table saw, and wont cut a flat edge.

#32: The Compound Miter Saw

You already have a tenon saw with a miter box, but if youre going to get into crown
molding and other such projects, youll need a compound miter saw. You may have used
your circular saw for those beveled cuts and miters. However, nothing beats the precision
of a good compound miter saw for those combination cuts.
A miter saw can be set to bevel up to 45 degrees, and will cut at a 60 degree angle in both
directions. The miter gauge on your saw should be easy to read and clearly marked. There
should be hard stops at each major point, such as 0, 15, 22.5, 30, and 45. These degrees
should be stopped on both sides. Not only that, but you should be able to lock the saw at
any angle you wish.
The bevel on the saw is the ability to tilt the saw to compound the cut hence the name.
This gives you the ability to cut 2 angles with one cut. Youll need the 10 saw blade if
you intend to cut 6 lumber. The 12 blade is nice, but few people really need the extra
size, although they appreciate it if they have it. 8 blades are just too small for most
woodworkers. You can find compound miter saws with a sliding arm function, like a
radial arm saw, but theyre pretty pricey.

#33: The Router

Every woodworker should have a router. With the router, you can shape the edges of your
work. The variety of shapes is endless, with the various bits available. If youre a

beginner, a stationary base router will do almost everything you need. This will start and
end the cut at the same depth that you set before you make the cut.
A plunge router allows you to plunge the bit into the wood, make your cut, then lift it
back out. You can use your stationary router in a router table, making long cuts with ease
using a fence. Some woodworkers even convert their table saw to accept a stationary
router so that they can use the rip fence and feather boards.
You should get a router with at least 2 HP, or it will be underpowered for hardwoods. It
needs variable speeds, since large bits need to operate at slower speeds. If you dont have
a variable speed router, you can burn your bits. Youll also burn hardwoods, if you cant
slow down the router speed.
Consider the size of the collet, too. This is like the drill size theyre available in and
size. You can put the smaller bits in the larger size, but not the other way around. The
larger bits are harder to find in the stores, and are more expensive. They balance out their
cost and rarity, though, because they are more stable than the bits, and wont chatter
as much during use.
Youll need to decide between grips on the router. Some of them have pistol grips that
you hold with one hand, others have 2 handles on opposite sides. Think about the weight
of the router and the uses, and decide which is best for you. Either way, though, the on/off
switch should be within finger reach. You shouldnt have to move one of your hands to
switch it on or off.
Some of the newer routers have sensors that evaluate the load. They adjust the RPMs
accordingly to keep them within a given range.

#34: The Band Saw

You just cant beat a band saw for cutting precise shapes and curves. But, what a lot of
woodworkers dont realize is that the band saw is a powerful ally when cutting rabbets
and tenons. You can also rip small pieces of wood and even make your own laminate
strips with a band saw. There are free-standing, or cabinet band saws and table mount
models that you can attach to a work bench or a dedicated stand. The free-standing
models are usually bigger, more sturdy saws that have more features. They also have
larger motors. These are the models used by professionals. However, you can still get
professional results from a mounted saw.
Youll want to look for 2 things with your band saw: depth of cut and throat. The depth of
cut is the distance between the cutting plate and the upper guides on the blade. This will
determine the thickness of stock you can cut. There are some saws, however, that can
have risers attached to make it possible to cut thicker materials, so you can go from 6 to
12 with the use of a riser.
The throat is the distance from the saw blade to the back frame of the saw. A cabinet band
saw will have a deeper throat, usually about 18, while the bench models have 12 to 14
throats. This will determine the width of stock that you can cut. When you see
information referring to a 12 band saw, its referring to the throat.
The size of the motor will matter. Most band saws made for home hobbyists will have up
to a 1 HP motor. More expensive ones will have variable speeds, but the woodworker
doesnt usually use the different speeds. The slower speeds are intended for cutting metal
and plastic. They may come in handy if youre planning on shaping exotic woods such as
acacia or bamboo. Just be sure to check the moisture content levels in these woods before
you make any fine applications, or theyll change size and mess up your work.
The cutting surface, or table, should be made of steel alloy, aluminum alloy, or cast-iron.
It should also be adjustable up to 45 degrees, so that you can make cuts at an angle. The
measurements of the cutting surface should be about 16 x 16, with miter marks.
The saw blade of the band saw is actually a continuous band, like an alternator belt, with
teeth on one side. It rides on 2 wheels. The width of the band will determine the radius of
the curve you can cut. As a woodworker, youll want saw blades from 1/8 to 1 in width,
keeping in mind that with the wider blade, you cant cut as wide on your curves. The
number of teeth per inch will matter here, too, with 1/2, , and 1 blades at about 3
teeth per inch, and thinner blades with more teeth.
The wheels on which the saw band rides should have a brush on them to keep debris from
accumulating. These look like the bristles from a paint brush being held in a clamp.
Youll need to change out the brushes once or twice during the lifetime of your band saw.
Between the band saw blade and the wheel is a tire. This looks like a big rubber band.
Most of them are made of either rubber or urethane. You have to glue the rubber ones
onto the wheel, while the urethane doesnt have to be glued down. The urethane also lasts
longer, too. The tires you choose for your saw should be a little smaller than the wheel

again, its like an alternator belt. You want it to be tight. If you have a band saw that just
doesnt do the job any more, consider your maintenance of the machine. It could be that it
just needs new tires and brushes. If the tires are dried out and cracked, the saw blade will
drift and chatter. If the tires and brushes have been worn out for a long time, you may
even need new wheels. But, once you replace all of these and adjust the wheels, you
should have a smooth-running cutting machine.

# 35: The Radial Arm Saw

The radial arm saw is expensive, bulky, and heavy. And, its absolutely indispensable to
those who own one. If you choose to get one, just plan to have a permanent home for it,
because its probably not going to travel to worksites with you.
The radial arm saw is usually used to perform crosscuts. However, you can use it for
bevels and miters, dadoes, rabbets, moldings, and even as a router guide. It can perform
the same functions as a compound miter saw and a table saw. However, its a little harder
to use in these capacities. Its kind of a trade off you get a multi-purpose saw for the
more extravagant price, but it will be a little harder to use than saws made specifically for
those purposes.
With a radial arm saw, youll move the saw rather than the material. The depth of the
throat will make a difference with this saw. Your set-up will determine the success of
your work. Set up your fence carefully, and make sure your stock is snug up against it.
Then, turn the saw on, and let the blade get up to full speed before you start pulling it
toward you.
Now, with this saw, youll get a lurching, crawling effect that you may not be prepared
for. Experts say to install the saw on the work table with a very slight backward slant in
order to keep it from walking forward on your work bench. Youll also need to be
prepared for the saw blade to grab the wood. This is one reason that set-up is so
important. With a fence securely in place, the wood has nowhere to go, and theres less
opportunity for your hand to get yanked into the blade. The saw will try to determine the
speed it travels through the wood. Youll have to keep a grip on it, and make it go at your
speed.

You can use your radial arm saw to cut dadoes and rabbets. Your dadoe blade installs
easily into the arm. Just be sure to remember the direction of cut, because its different
from your table saw. Also, always reinstall the blade guard when you change the blade in
any of your saws.
While this saw may be better at cutting complex compound angles, it can be trickier to
set up. Once you think you have it set up, make sure the clamping levers are locked into
place. You can set the radial arm saw to rip narrower stock. Just make sure that the riving
knife and pawls are in place should there be a jam or kick back.
Setting the depth of cut is important. With other saws, since the cut is to the top or
outside, this wont matter. But the radial arm saw is being drawn across the stock, cutting
all the way through it into the surface below. So youll have to pay close attention to the
depth of cut so as to not sacrifice your work surface on a regular basis.

# 36: The Drill Press

While most holes can be drilled with your power drill, there will be applications in your
woodworking where a drill press will be invaluable. The drill press provides you with the
ability to do precision drilling, and deliver especially accurate large-diameter holes.

One of the best features of a drill press is the ability for you to set the depth of the hole.
This is especially useful when you have a number of holes you need to drill, all to the
same depth. The drill press also allows you to use forstner bits, hole saws, and spade bits,
drilling wide diameter holes to depths that would be very difficult to drill by hand.
The features you should look for when you purchase your drill press will begin with a
bench mounted or free-standing model. For the record, the free-standing models usually
have larger motors, making them more powerful. This means your work will be
smoother. You can also work on larger stock with the free-standing drill press. Look for
variable speeds, too. This will be accomplished by the ability to switch the belt to a
different pulley setup, changing the speed at which the chuck rotates. This is important
because hardwoods and softwoods must be drilled at different speeds (softwoods require
faster speeds than hardwoods, while hardwoods will burn at high speeds). Finally, look
for a feed that has several handles on it. You want the utmost control when you plunge
the drill bit, and having 2 or 3 grips on the lever will help that. The plunge lever should
be lockable so that you can set the depth of plunge, with an automatic redraw.
The free-standing floor model may also come with another great feature the ability to
swing the drill table out of the way. Some of them can also be tilted to a 45 degree angle,
too.
Look for a table that has slots that allow for the use of clamps, so that you can use jigs
and fences on the table. There will be slots on the table that allow for this.
To drill really large stock, look for a drill press that has a really deep throat. Just as with
the band saw, this is the distance between the working edge, in this case, the drill bit, and
the vertical support at the back of the press.
Your drill press can really help with joinery, as well as in drilling holes. With the proper
attachment, you can actually drill square holes. The chisels that cut the square part are
attached above the chuck, and the drill bit fits inside. This makes drilling mortise and
tenon joints easy.
Other uses and tips for your drill press:
1.

Use it for sanding. You can use a sanding drum in the chuck and adjust the table
height to sand curved cuts easily.

2. Offset holes are easy to drill when you clamp the piece down.
3. Small pieces can be clamped to the drill press table, preventing them from moving
around as you drill.
4. Make a V jig to hold round items, such as chair legs, for drilling.

5. Clamp stop blocks to the drilling table, if you have to drill in the same place on
several pieces of wood.

#37: The Surface Planer

The surface planer is high-techs solution for the dedicated woodworkers through the
generations who have patiently and skillfully planed their stock by hand to get it the right
thickness. The time-saving surface planer makes your world much simpler. The planer
has a table onto which you feed your stock. This table is between 10 and 14, so thats
the maximum width of stock you can send through. A set of blades rotate, cutting the
wood as it is fed through.
You adjust the depth of cut with a crank, usually on one end of the planer. It actually
looks kind of like the wheel on a sewing machine. Most planers will plane your stock
down 6 inches, but you need to do this in small increments.
You achieve a smooth, evenly-planed surface, the intake rollers inside the planer will pull
the stock in and feed it under the knives, while outtake rollers pull it out the other side.
The stock will move slowly and steadily beneath the knives which are rotating at a very
high RPM. This yields a smooth finish to your stock. There should be pawls within the
planer, so that if the rollers lose their grip on the stock, it wont kick back out of the
machine. You should also check to see if the surface planer youre considering has a dust
vacuum, because the amount of sawdust generated by these machines is epic.
You should always use hearing protection when youre using a surface planer. These will
be the noisiest tools in your workshop, and can cause damage. Safety glasses are also
suggested for all power equipment.
Tips for using the surface planer:
1. Hand-feed the stock until both sets of rollers have grabbed it.
2. For extremely long pieces of stock, use extension tables or feed rollers on each
end.

3. Keep the stock in line with the plane table to avoid gouges. If the stock enters at
an angle, it will be gouged.
4. Stand beside the stock you are feeding into the planer. If you stand behind it, and
there is kick-back that the pawls dont catch, you will be injured.
5. NEVER use your hands to clear a jam. Use a spare piece of scrap lumber to push
out anything that gets stuck in the planer.
6. Dont try to plane items that are too small for the planer. These are best handsanded or clamped, with the block plane used, instead.

#38: The Jointer

The jointer is the most reliable and accurate way to insure square edges. It also will yield
flat surfaces that wont go through your surface planer. Rather than using a saw blade, the
jointer uses a cutter head that rotates at high RPM. It is positioned between two tables.
The infeed table is usually at a lower height, based on how much you want to remove
from your stock. The outfeed table is at the same height as the cutting edge, supporting
the board as it is cut. There should also be a fence to help provide accurate cuts. Youll
need a flat edge to do your woodworking, and the jointer can cut a flat edge and smooth
surface on your stock. For instance, if you have a 24 with a roughed up edge, you can
place it, rough side down, against the fence on the jointer. Using a push stick, push the
24 across the jointer knives, and it will cut down the rough parts of the edge. You may
have to make several passes to get the surface completely smooth. This will not only give
you cleaner cuts, but it will save wear and tear on your motor and knives. Remember, too,
to always allow the blades to get up to full speed before you begin cutting.
Youll need to give slight downward pressure to the stock as it goes through the jointer.
Shift the pressure to the front of the stock as it exits the blades. Do not lift the stock until
it is completely free of the blades. Then, return to the starting point for your second pass.

A jointer makes it possible to salvage bowed or warped stock that you previously may
have had to discard. With a bowed board, place in on the infeed table with the bow in the
center, facing up. This will keep it from rocking on the table. The two ends of the piece
will be jointed first, which is OK. If you have to joint an edge that is rocking, keep your
pressure on the infeed table to reduce the rocking as much as possible.
To square edges, make sure that the fence is truly at a 90 degree angle to the tables.
Remember your layout square? Youll use that for this task. Since youre preparing a
squared edge, place most of your pressure on the fence, making sure the wood stays
straight up and down as the blades do their work. Numerous, small cuts are preferable to
one big one.
The fact that the fence can be angled gives you the chance to make mitered butt joints.
You can also make plunges on the jointer, giving your stock chamfered edges.

Non-Tool Tools
It may well be that the most valuable tools you own in your woodworking shop are not
tools at all.

#39: The Manual

Each of the tools you purchase for your shop will come with a manual. Just resign
yourself right now to reading instructions. Most tools returned to mail order companies
and home improvement stores as defective simply were not used according to
instructions. The hands-on nature of woodworking often means there is a large population
of craftsmen who dont care to read instructions, but when youre dealing with,
ultimately, thousands of dollars worth of equipment, all of which can eat your hands,
youre much better off referring to the operators manual, rather than learning by trial and
error.
A single-drawer file cabinet will hold all of your manuals and warranty information.
Keep a separate file on each tool yes, even your screwdrivers because many of those

are warrantied, too. For filing purposes, file either according to make, such as Black &
Decker, Ryobi, or by tool, such as router bits, router, router table, etc.
You may be able to find magazine protectors at your local office supply store. While they
are harder to find, they will make it possible to keep your manual with your equipment
without the manual being damaged. Some truly dedicated woodworkers even make their
own notebooks out of the operators manuals. They take them apart, putting each page in a
page protector, reassembling them in a notebook binder. The binder is then left on a shelf
under the saw, if possible, or displayed on a shelf for easy reference. You can imagine
that the equipment of these woodworkers is also in pristine condition. While you may not
go to these lengths to keep your manuals handy, at least read through them at least once,
when you first get your equipment.
Each manual will have suggestions for not only safe operation, but for special uses, as
well. Chances are, if youre having trouble with your machine, the problem is addressed
in the manual, and you can save yourself a lot of time and frustration by troubleshooting
with the operators manual.

#40: The Safety Equipment

The safety equipment you use may save irreplaceable parts of you. Fingers dont grow
back, so use feather boards, push sticks, and always use tools according to directions. You
should always have proper backup as you feed material through machines, and keep the
pressure applied to the correct parts of the stock, as in your instruction manuals.
Your vision and hearing are equally irreplaceable, so always wear safety glasses. If you
wear prescription lenses, you order them with safety lenses, making it easy to protect
your eyes while you work. Ordinary glasses are not safety lenses, and may shatter if a
projectile hits them, causing even more damage.
Your hearing can be protected with earplugs purchased at the hardware store or the local
Wal-Mart. If you dont find them in the sleep-aid section, check the hunting section. You
can find the kind that have a string connecting them, so that you just pull them out of
your ears when youre finished cutting, and they lie across your shoulders until youre
ready for them again.

There you have it 40 tools that every woodworker should think about owning. Ranging
in complexity from the humble claw hammer to the complex and potentially dangerous
jointer, these tools each have unique uses in the hands of skilled workmen. Proper care of
all tools will prolong their lives, and proper use of safety equipment will prolong the
quality of your own life. Accessible storage will make your shop not only a safer
environment, but it will save you a great deal of time in looking for pieces and parts that
you use on a regular basis.
Remember that, with numerous power tools, youll need dedicated outlets. While you
may not run more than one power tool at a time, its still better to try to arrange your shop
so that each tool has its own outlet, rather that stringing multi-outlet adapters across the
floor, with 5 and 6 powerful tools plugged into each one.
If you keep hand tools in tool drawers or on peg boards where they wont roll around and
bump into each other, the edges and handles will last longer. Keep saw blades oiled and
stored flat, when possible, so that the teeth wont be damaged.
Finally, make sure you have good lighting on all of your work surfaces. Overhead
lighting is vital to any workshop, but can cast shadows on your work surface. Shadows
can not only interfere with accurate cutting, but can be downright dangerous with the
optical illusions they can cause, leading you to get your hands too close to saw blades. As
you lay out your shop and plan outlets for your power tools, plan for an outlet for a work
light, too. You can get excellent work surface lights that will clip on, or mount onto the
wall behind your equipment, or stand on the floor and adjust to shine on multiple
surfaces.
However you choose to arrange your woodworking shop, the equipment listed above will
give you years of use and pleasure.