SCREENPRINTING GUIDE PINOY STYLE

PREPARING A WORK AREA

Plantilla are wood with a cover of foam about 1/2and tarpaulin on it.. this its to
attain sharp and better registration of screen printing especialy in halftoning, using
superwhite and 3colors above.

preparation:
materials needed for making Plantilla:
16"x16" 1/4plywood
18"x18" tarpaulin
16x16 1/2 ordinary foam
gun tacker
table adhesive
place the 16x16 1/2 foam to the 16"x16" 1/4plywood guntacked it and place the
18"x18" tarpaulin above pack it and guntack each sides...
Place 1tbsp of table adhesive in ur board then spread it leave for 3 hours for
drying... whoala finish u have ur plantila board..
its recomended for Sportswear printing like jerseys, printing using Superwhite or
bases.. Halftoning and for 4 colors above.

A card table will provide enough work area for most projects. It is necessary to
locate your work area with easy access to a large sink or laundry tub with hot and
cold water.
If you plan to make a large number of prints, you may wish to string a line through
spring-type clothespin or make a rack to keep prints from smearing while they dry.
1.
Prepare the plantilla or plates by removing the the dust in the adhesive this
would cost bulging when shirts are put and cause damage to the printing.
Step 1 - Screen Printed T-shirt Artwork Stage
The graphic artist goes creating innovative custom designs to fit customer's needs.
They size the artwork to fit each position on the shirt. When artwork is approved by
customer, the design is broken into separate colors and printed on papers or
acetate. These transparencies are then passed on to the screen room for the screen
burning process.

Step 2 - Burning to Screens

Transparencies from the artwork stage are taped to tightly meshed screens. These
screens have already been coated and dried with a special light sensitive photo
polymer screen emulsion. This emulsion turns very hard when exposed to light with
UV emmision. The transparencies prevent light from hardening the polymer on
designated parts of the screen when it is exposed on the burn table. The emulsion
hardens in an exposure time of approximately 3-7 minutes with a good uvlights 4
20w philip flourescent about 2"distance between glass. From here, the screen is
taken to a high pressure wash tub where the unhardened portions of the polymer
are blown out. This leaves a template screen that can be used to print shirts.

Step A--Mixing the photo emulsion

im using from tulco sensitizer and use economicaly Apollo White Glue or Elmers
white Glue
Mix the Photo emulsion with UV light Sensitive Sensitizer until there is a little
stickynes of the emulsion. Usually if you Mix Sensitizer orange to the white Glue or
emulsion it turn to be yellow but the best color on which emulsion are effective is
yellow orange.
Coat the screen by first pouring a bead of the solution on one end of the bottom
side of the screen. Spread it evenly and thinly with the squeegee or the plastic
spreader. Use more solution where necessary. Pour a bead of the solution on one
end of the inside of the screen and spread it evenly with the squeegee or the plastic
spreader. Work to achieve an even continuous coating on both sides of the screen
fabric. Perform the final spreading on the inside of the screen. Return any excess
solution to your mixing container.

Step C-Drying the coated screen

In an area AWAY FROM LIGHT When using A Hair Blower for drying, when dried it
should be expose not more than 10-15 minutes prior to the drying, set the screen to
dry horizontally, bottom side down. This will provide the most even, flat "film" on
the underside of the screen. It will, however, require your elevating the four corners
of the underside of the frame during the drying stage with push pins or other
suitable devices. An empty drawer, cupboard, closet, or under a cardboard box will
work fine. Allow the screen to dry thoroughly. If more than 300 prints are to be run,
it is best to apply a second coating of the sensitized Photo Emulsion to the bottom
of the screen after the first coat is dry. Remember, work for a smooth, even THIN
coating. Repeat the drying process away from heat and light.
Once the sensitized screen is dry, it must remain in a darkened area until it is ready
to be exposed. A fan in the dark area will greatly speed up the drying of the
emulsion on the screen.

Step D--Preparing a positive

With the White Glue Apollo or Elmers glue, the maximum allowable time between
application of the sensitized emulsion to the screen and the exposure is 4 hours at
room temperature or the shell life of coated screen is maximum 4 hours. Mix
Sensitizer and White Glue the Maximum shell life is only 48hours so don't over ur
mixing fresh mix of emulsion=better outcome..
A "positive" is any opaque image (usually black), on any transparent or translucent
surface. There are many ways you may choose to prepare them.
A excellent transparent film for this purpose is Bienfang" Wet Media Mylar. Wet
Media is available in various sizes.
Another way of producing positives is through copy machines that have the
capability of reproducing very opaquely on film, tracing paper, etc. In order to
satisfactorily produce a positive using a copy machine, the following conditions
must be met:
. (1) Black and white line work-Must be opaque
. (2) Photographic print-Must have high contrast
. (3) Copy machine must have capability stated above. You must check this out in
advance. Photographic

Step E
Before you remove the sensitized screen from the dark drying area, make sure
everything you need to print with is on hand. Set up your exposure lamp as
described in step F Copy and illustrations (positives) can be fixed in place with
cellophane tape. Do not let two layers of tracing paper overlap. A better alternative
than taping the "positives" to the screen fabric is to lay a piece of clear glass, lucite,
or plexiglass on top of them. One of these must be used if thin lines or lettering less
than 1/4" tall is to be printed. Which ever you use, once you are all "positives" are in
place and against the fabric, you are ready to expose the screen.

STEP F

How to expose ur precoated screens

make sure that ur mixing of emulsion and sensitizer are corect..moving on, prepare
the necessary materials:
1. Negative make sure that ur making ang accurate negative espcialy in color
separation.

2.Prepare ur UV light, light first to see if its working all light...

3.if ur NEgative are printed on bondpaper, try to consider to have an cooking oil, u
may wondering for what is that.. the inkjet dye are resistant to oil make the resin
stable but will make the paper transparent, this is recomended for paper printing
without film...
4. place ur negative in the uv light, pahiran mo ng oil ung paper then fit ur
precoated screen together with the negative.
5.regarding the UV light, im using 20wats for 4 fluorescents 2" between glass and
fluorescents. try putting heavy weight in the screen with foam below to give a
pressure to the screen and negative... Turn on the Uv light.. exposure may take upto
3-10mins... safe is 5 mins
20 watts (4 pcs)

Screen Size . 4 Fluorescent light . . Exposure Time

8"x10" . . . . . . 2 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 minutes

10"x14" . . . . . 2 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-4 minutes
12"x18" . . . . .2inches . . . . . . . . . ......4 minutes
16"x20 . . . . . .2inches . . . . . . . . . . ... 5 minutes
18"x20" . . . . . 2 inches . . . . . . . . . . .. . 6 minutes

Natural UV light (SUNLIGHT)

Screen Size . . Lamp Height . . Exposure Time

8" x 10". . . . . . 3 inches . . . . . .7-10 Sec (humid 12pm- 3pm)

10"x14". . . . . . 3 inches . . . . .5 Sec (Hot rays 12- 3pm)
12 "x 18" . . . . .3 inches . . . . . 30 seconds (Cloudy 4 oclock)
16"x2O" . . . . . 3 inches . . . . . 59-1.5 minutes (5 o clock)

Step G-After Exposing

after exposing the screen, never expose ur screen to light, run to the sink. Apply a
forceful spray of water (body temperature) to both sides of the screen. DO NOT USE
HOT WATER. Concentrate this spray on the light images on the top side of the
screen. After a few minutes, these areas will become "open." Continue spraying
until all unwanted emulsion is gone.
Once you have completely washed the screen, let it dry thoroughly in a level flat
position.
Hold the dry frame to the light and check for pin-holes. These can be covered with
Speedball Screen Filler or pieces of masking
I stuck to the bottom of the screen. If Screen Filler is used, let the screen dry again.
Follow the directions found in the section, "Making Prints."