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LIVERY
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1898

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New York
Rogers Peer c^' Company
Outfitters

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2nd COPY,
1898. .
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COPYRIGHT MDCCCXCVUI
BY ROGERS TEET & CO

5574

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The Table of Contents
PAGE
Coachman and Groom : Dress : Summer
AND Winter . . . . -13
Coachman and Groom : Undress: Sum-
mer AND Win lER . . . .21
Coachman and Groom : Wet Weather
AND Cold . . . .29
.......
.

Aprons 33

Butler and Second-man : Morning Af-


ternoon AND Evening .
-37
Hall-Boy and Page , . . -45
Terms 51
The List of Pictures

PAGE
Frontispiece . 2

Coachman's Body Coat 12

Groom's Body Coat 14

Great Coat 16

Coat ok Whipcord 20

Jacket of Whipcord 22

Overcoat of Whipcord 24

Mackintosh 28

Aprons .... 32

Butler and vSecond Man, Jacket


Apron 36

Butler's Dinner Coat .


38

Second Man's Dinner Coat 40

Hall Boy's Suit 44

Page's Suit 46
A Prefatory Note

UNTIL the appearance of our little

book in the Spring of 1897, there


was no written authority on what
men servants should wear.
To make that book undeniably author-
itative, we printed nothing except what

both London and New York had tried


and approved. Nor did we attempt to

conform the book to our stock ; but, on


the contrary, we conformed our stock to

the book.
With some slight revisions, and in a
new dress, we again offer it, confident of
its welcome —
in default of anything better.

Our stock comprises livery for both


in-door and out-door men — complete to

the smallest essential.


Yes, it's ready to wear; but, "while
we don't make to order, we do make to

fit." At the few good livery tailors' you


LIVERY
would only pay more without getting more
— often not as much.
No, you needn't live in New York
City to deal with us ; we fill orders from
anywhere.
And whatever you buy, you may re-

turn, whether for fact or fancy, and


get your money back ; may return it for
alterations or exchange, at our expense.
Put us to the test.

IF
we don't have it, we'll get it — will
gladly estimate for stock-farms, ho-
tels, clubs and others on application.
Underwear is not livery ; but we have
that, too, and everything else man or
boy wears — see our general catalogue,
sent on request.
Coachman and Groom: Dress:

Summer and Winter


:

Coachman and Groom : Dress


Summer and Winter
COACHMAN'S
A— somewhat longer than
and should have,
coat should
a groom's,
in addition, flap

on a groom's
be

pockets rarely seen coat.

It should have six buttons in front,


two at the waist behind, and two near
the bottom of the skirt — the middle but-
tons are omitted, so as not to wear the
box-seat ; and as a coachman is not sup-
posed to leave his seat, the omission is

not noticeable.
On the other hand, a groom's coat has
the full six buttons behind, but only five
in front — though six are not out of the
way.
These buttons should match the har-
ness metal trimmings, unless the family
be in mourning, when black becomes a
necessity.
A velvet collar is a matter of individual
taste ; but a valentian sham vest must
always be worn.
Don't let your men wear accordion-
13
;

LIVERY
like boots — the kind that fall down and
disappear; but instead, stiff-legged calf-
skin, with russet or white tops ; black, of
course, if in mourning — the black is pro-
duced by covering the boot-top with cloth.
The breeches are usually made from
white stockinet ; made so that the upper
button comes just below the knee-cap.
Trousers, when matching the coat, are
always permissible; preferable perhaps,
on a stormy morning, but not so smart
as top boots and breeches. The body-
coat, by the way, should be shorter when
worn with breeches than with trousers.
The scarf most worn is of white linen,
already tied (known as a plastron). It's

a scarf easily washed.


The scarf-pin should be "horsey" in
character ; the collar, the regulation
coachman collar.

The hat, under ordinary conditions,


must be silk ; but cockades should never
be worn unless the owner is a member of
the army, navy, or diplomatic corps
shoulder knots, fancy collars and cuffs,

are not in the best of form.


IV
LIVERY
Gloves are ordinarily tan ; but for

calling or park driving, they may be of


white buckskin.

A COACHMAN'S
worn with boots and breeches,
should come a
great-coat,

trifle
when

below the
tops of his boots ; the groom's to the
upper button of his breeches. When
worn with trousers, the coats should be
somewhat longer.
As to buttons and flap pockets, what
applies to body-coats applies to great-coats
as well.
Don't allow your man to wear the body-
coat under a great-coat ; it's clumsy, and apt
to bind his arms. A heavy double-breasted,
collarless waistcoat solves the problem.
While the dummy box-coat is not highly
thought of, it is considered good form
with a lady's open carriage to carry
great -coats, carefully folded, hanging
from the back of the seat, collar down—
the men sitting on the skirts.

Body-coats, blue, green, black, claret .... $22 oo


Trousers g oo
Body-coats, drab 25 00
17
LIVERY
Trousers $io oo
White stockinet breeches 17 oo
Monogram or crest buttons, moulded, per
dozen i o 00
Large die for buttons 25 00
Small die 1 5 00
Buttons made from die, large, per dozen. . 2 00
Small, per dozen i 00
Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c.
each, per dozen 2 75
Scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per dozen.. 5 50
This is our patent— a Punjab scarf that does not soil in putting-
on, nor priclv the fingers.

Cuflfs, per dozen $2 75 and 4 50


Coachmen's flannel shirts 2 50 and 3 00
Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50
" Grip " 2 25
White buckskin , 175
Silk hat 5 00
American calf, stiff-leg boot 9 00
Boot-tops, assorted colors 3 00
Black, cloth-covered 5 50
White ooze skin 6 00
Patent-leather carriage shoe ,
5 00
Great-coats of English box-cloth, lined
with heavy plaid worsted, green, blue,
black, claret, drab 50 00
Cream 55 00
Great-coats of American box-cloth, lined
with heavy wool, green, blue, black ... 35 00
Dummy coats 1 8 00

Heavy-weight trousers 12 00
Heavy waistcoat, with sleeves 8 00
Bedford-cord trousers. 12 00
Coachman and Groom Undress
: :

Summer and Winter


Coachman and Groom : Undress :

Summer and Winter

UNDRESS livery is only another


name for "whipcord," whether
made into a suit with jacket, or
coat with flap pockets.
Trousers, or breeches and leggins, may
be worn with either jacket or coat, but
breeches and leggins are the coachman's
preference ; and, for wear about the
stable, when exercising horses, or in the
saddle, they are preferable.
A brown square hat should be worn
with the jacket ; while with the coat either
a square hat or a coaching hat may be
worn — both are equally correct.
For country use, it is, at all times, in

good taste; also in town, with many of


the traps used by men ; on a drag, when
used for road purposes ; or on an omnibus,
going to the station of a morning, and
when taking the children and nurses for
an airing.
But, so much license is given this livery;
LIVERY
one's environment has so much weight,
that it is next to impossible to indicate any
hard and fast rules. We shall always be
pleased, however, to advise, if the charac-
ter of the trap and the conditions under
which it is used are given.

THE is
short top-coat of covert-cloth
the only proper overcoat for
undress livery.

Brown Oxford-mixed and tan suit, with


jacket $24 GO
With breeches and leggins, instead of
trousers 2)^ 50
Suit with coat 25 00
With breeches and leggins, instead of
trousers 33 5°
Breeches 11 00

Knee-strapping of buckskin 3 00
Full-strapping 6 00
Leggins 4 00
Box-cloth leggins 6 00
Trousers 7 5°
Corduroy trousers, for stable use 4 5°
Double-breasted heavy top-coat of covert-
cloth 22 00
Single-breasted medium top-coat of cov-
ert-cloth 16 00
Coaching hat (bell -crown), black or tan. . 4 00
Square top, black, brown, and tan .... 3 00
23
L I \^ E R Y
Whipcord stable cap $150
Coachmen's flannel shirts $2 50 and 3 00
Heavy tan shoes, lace 3 00 and 5 00
Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c. each,
per dozen 2 75
Punjab scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per
dozen 5 5^
Cuffs, per dozen $275 and 4 50
Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50
"Grip " 2 25
Coachman and Groom : Wet
Weather and Cold
Coachman and Groom : Wet
Weather and Cold

UNLESS actually storming when


leaving the stable, see that your
coachman wears a silk hat, for he
should always carry a rubber or mackin-
tosh coat in the boot of the carriage, with
a rubber hat-cover in one pocket and knit
gloves in the other.
If storming, either a high black cassi-
mere or a silk hat, with rubber cover, may
be worn —
both are correct.
Rain or shine, a large umbrella should
be carried on a brougham, underneath
the skirt ; the handle to protrude on the
nigh side of the carriage. It is especially

adapted for the use of servants going be-


tween carriage and house doors.

Coachmen's mackintoshes, roomy enough


to go over the heavy box-cloth overcoat,
black $15 00
The same, white 25 00
Selby (apron, $8 50) 24 00
(See page 32.)

Rubber coats, white or black ,


5 oo
29
LIVERY
Coach umbrellas $3 75 and $5 00
Storm gloves 50
Gloves, lined 3 00
Storm cassimere hat 5 00
Mackintosh hat-cover 2 00
Rubber hat-cover i 25
Rubber boots, knee 3 50
Storm boots 4 00
Furs :

Gloves : Sealskin, colored coon, and


bearskin.
Capes : Goat, Moufflon, colored coon,
and bearskin.
Robes: Goat, Moufflon, colored coon,
and bearskin.
Prices vary so considerably from season to season, that we prefer
not to make quotations but the prices will be as low, if not lower,
;

than elsewhere.
Aprons
/

>;
Aprons

APRONS are usually lined with a


plain worsted. In the centre of
the topis placed a medallion, for
a monogram or crest ; to the under side
of this medallion is fastened a strap, with
which to make fast to the seat-rail.
Four-in-hand or tandem aprons should
strap around the waist and come to the

ankle when standing — they're known as

''Selbys."
Aprons should generally match the trim-
mings of a carriage.
We have a pattern superior to any yet
made in this country — it gives less room
at the bottom and more at the top, so the

wearer can sit on it.

Robes to match English box-cloth great-


coats, blue, green, black, drab, claret,
and cream. Plain, with rounded cor-

ners $30 00
Cut with a gore directly in the middle
— fit better and don't slip 32 00

33
LIVERY
Robes to match, American box-cloth, blue,
green, and black. Plain, with rounded
corners $22 oo
Cut with a gore 24 oo
Aprons (with flaps and pockets) to match
English box-cloth 40 00
To match American box-cloth 30 00
Summer robes, to match coachman's body-
coat, in blue, green, black, or claret . . 15 00
In drab 18 00
Whipcord aprons, unlined 12 00
Lined 1 8 00
Selby aprons (coat, $24 00) 8 50
Butler and Second-man : Morn-
ing Afternoon and Evening
^
Butler and Second - man : Morn-
ing Afternoon and Evening

OF a morning, vuitil after

the })lain black jacket or coat


luncheon,
is

permissible for the butler — a black


one invariably; the ordinary turned-down
or standing collar ; black calfskin or pat-
ent-leather shoes —shoes that do not
squeak.
Permissible, we have said, but not so
smart as the Tuxedo coat and low \vaist-
coat.
Neither is right at luncheon, should
there be guests.
What applies to the butler, applies to
the second-man ; except that the butler
usually waits on the table at breakfast and
luncheon alone, so the second-man has
little use for a Tuxedo ; though, if ever
called upon to wait, the Tuxedo is what
he should wear.
Jackets of broadcloth, nun's-cloth, or
white duck should never be worn in pri-
vate service.
37
7

L I \ E R Y
Black cheviot suit with jacket $15 00
Black cheviot suit with coat 16 00
Tuxedo coat and waistcoat 18 00
Breakfast jacket of nun's-cloth 225
White duck i 50
Black broadcloth 7 00
Green baize-cloth apron i 50
Gingham apron, with bib 30
White apron, with bib 25
White apron, without bib 25
Black satin and silk ties 50
Shirts, per dozen $11 25 and 1 00
Collars, per dozen i 50 and 2 75
CufTs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50
Noiseless house-shoes, kid or patent .... 2 25

At luncheon, en faniille, a butler is

dressed in his morning clothes; if there


are guests, he should be dressed the same
as when opening the door for afternoon
calls, or waiting on the table at dinner :

swallow-tail coat and white tie.


In case a second-man is employed, the
butler is not expected to open the door
of an afternoon or evening.
If guests are at dinner, white gloves are
needed ; otherwise not.
If you find it unnecessary to have a
second-man, yet have carriages, it is

39
L I V ERY
quite correct (rather smart, in fact) to

put your butler on a lady's carriage, es-

pecially an oi)en one, for afternoon call-


ing and park-driving ; but then he should
wear the house-footman's livery with white
gloves and silk hat; in cold weather, a
great-coat to match that worn by the
coachman (for prices see page i8). This
coat is kept in the house, not stable — as

should be all rugs used by ladies.

Putting a butler or house-footman on


your carria.ge, could never be taken as a
sign that you have no groom ; for many
ladies prefer the house-footman, no mat-
ter how many servants they have.

Dress-suit of. imported worsted $27 00


White cotton gloves, per pair 25
Dress bows,. per dozen I 50
String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50

AT dinner the. house-footman wears


what, to the casual observer, would
look like a dress-coat, except that
it is ordinarily of a color, chosen as the
family color — appearing in all liveries.

The waistcoat should be of striped or


solid color valentian or plush ; trousers

4*
.

LIVERY
of the same material as the coat, piped to
match the waistcoat. Coat collar may be
of velvet —simply a question of taste.
Shirt collar should be white —standing
always ; tie white. Black calfskin, or
patent-leather shoes —shoes that do not
squeak.
All the servants of the house should
wear the same livery.
Club servants dress as do house-foot-
men.
House-footman's suit of imported livery
cloth, green, blue, black, or claret coats $20 00
Trousers 9 00
Waistcoats, striped valentian, all colors . .
5 00
Plush 8 00
Plain valentian 6 00
Monogram or crest buttons, moulded,
per dozen 10 00
Large die for buttons..- 25 00
Small die 15 00
Buttons, made from die, large, per dozen 2 00
Buttons, made from die, small, per dozen i 00

If we don't have it, we'll get it — will

gladly estimate for hotels and clubs.


Hall-Boy and Page
Hall-Boy and Page

A HALL-BOY'S coat is

the-neck coat, and should be kept


buttoned ; so there is
a button-to-

no necessity
for a waistcoat in summer.
In winter, for the same reason, any old
heavy waistcoat may be used. This calls

for a medium-weight cloth, one that can


be used the year round —such as tricot.
Other and thinner suits will be made
if desired.

Blue tricot suit $i6 oo


Porter or hall-boy's cap i 50
Collars, per dozen $1 50 and 2 75
Cuffs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50
Black satin and silk ties 50
Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50
Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25

"

A PAGE should wear


suit,

a high, white collar,


the " buttons
morning, noon, and night
white tie,
;

shoes of black calfskin or patent leather,


and a cap matching suit when running
errands.

45
LIVERY
A page may do all the work of a
second- man, even to appearing on the
box of a carriage (see page 13) ; every-
thing except wait on the table.
The ''Buttons" of a private house,
takes the place of the hall-boy in restau-
rants, apartments and the like.

Blue tricot suit $12 00


Extra trousers 3 50
Collars, per dozen i 50
Cuffs, per dozen 2 40
String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50
Cap, blue . . . i 25
Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50
Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25
Terms
Terms

ALL purchases are


within one hundred miles of
delivered free

New
York City.
Mail orders to the amount of $20 or
over, if fully paid in advance, are deliv-
ered free to any point in the United
States.
Responsible persons, by giving city

references, may remit after receipt of


goods ; but may not have goods delivered
free, farther than one hundred miles from
New York City.
In all other cases we send by express,

with bill for collection. The express


agent is authorized to hold the amount
collected for C. O. D. packages for one
day, and if you return the goods within
that time, to refund the money paid for
the goods and the expressage.
Beyond the one hundred mile limit, we
do not pay expressage, but pay for return
LIVERY
of money on C. O. D. packages. Should
the express agent refuse to allow exami-
nation, or to refund the money paid for
the goods that prove unsatisfactory, re-
turn them by express to us, and we will
promptly refund the amount paid for the
goods and the express charges.
* Parcels weighing four pounds or less,

may be mailed for one cent an ounce,


and registered for eight cents additional.
The ' post-office refuses parcels of more
than four pounds.
'. Return garments at our expense for
alteration; we do not pay for local
tailor's work. We make no charge for
alterations.

For your convenience when in the city,

we have three stores on Broadway — one


On the corner of Prince, one on the cor-
ner of Warren, and one on the corner of
Thirty-second Street.
But please bear in mind that goods will

not be delivered to your servants without


a written order.
Printed for
Rogers Peet & Company
under the direction of
H. Ingalls Kimball
M dccc xcviii
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

1" T""T TT 014 080 174


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